in croatiaWe paddle beneath a 12-meter, horseshoe waterfall onCroatia’s Zrmanja River, which flows into <strong>the</strong> Adriatic. Photoby Peter McBride.
have long, hot days of paddling and were guaranteedto see hundreds, thousands of peopleeach day. What’s more, one third of Vietnam’s77 million people lives and depends on <strong>the</strong>sea, and I had long been fascinated by Vietnam,especially <strong>the</strong> north.With that transition from <strong>the</strong> cold BeringSea to <strong>the</strong> warm South China Sea, <strong>the</strong> ideafor OCEANS 8 was born. Our <strong>the</strong> goal wouldbe to visit each of <strong>the</strong> seven continents, plusOceania, by sea kayak. Team rosters, whichvaried from trip to trip, included photographers,videographers, environmentalists, andlocal experts. To date we’ve completed sevenof <strong>the</strong> eight expeditions. As you read this, wewill have embarked on our eighth and final journey,to Antarctica’s Larsen Ice Shelf.So far, <strong>the</strong> eight-year project has taken usfrom <strong>the</strong> Aleutians to Vietnam, to <strong>the</strong> TuamotuArchipelago—78 coral-reef atolls in <strong>the</strong> SouthPacific—to <strong>the</strong> high, arid Altiplano of SouthAmerica, on a circumnavigation of Gabon’sfirst national park and, most recently, an explorationof <strong>the</strong> 1,200 Adriatic islands off <strong>the</strong>coast of Croatia.Our experiences have been marvelously variedthroughout our journeys, from paddling infour-meter swells off a barely visible coral reefin <strong>the</strong> South Pacific to facing down wadinghippos off <strong>the</strong> coast of Gabon. We’ve been inspiredby <strong>the</strong> lives of <strong>the</strong> people we have met,from <strong>the</strong> commercial squid fishermen in Vietnam’sHa Long Bay to <strong>the</strong> solitary urchin-diversoff Antofagasta in nor<strong>the</strong>rn Chile. In 2006, wewent halfway around Tasmania, ending in itsremote Furneaux Group of islands in <strong>the</strong> BassStrait, where we encountered <strong>the</strong> wildest seasyet–yet because Antarctica may offer us ourgreatest challenge, with its frigid temperaturesand kayak-crushing icebergs.<strong>The</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong> world’s oceans face mountingenvironmental challenges, from <strong>global</strong>warming, pollution, and overfishing, has addedresonance to each expedition, making our finaljourney to Antarctica all <strong>the</strong> more important.If <strong>the</strong> surface of <strong>the</strong> Earth is truly onesingle, complex system, <strong>the</strong>n Antarctica is itsheart, <strong>the</strong> slowly beating pump that drives <strong>the</strong>whole world. Each austral winter, an 18-million-