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Medieval And Colonial Capital Cities Of DelhiDESCRIPTIONShahjahanabad – Process of Evolution and ChangeDevelopment and changeLess than a century after Shahjahanabad had been established, the Mughal empire was on the path of decline.Regional movements led to the breaking away of parts of the empire, weak rulers led to a prolonged tussle forpower between different factions at court, and taking advantage of this disorder, the Persian ruler Nadir Shahinvaded in 1739. All this meant a shrinkage of the resources of the established grandees, and departure of otherto regional centres such as Awadh and Hyderabad.Particularly in the second half of the 18 th century therefore, there was a mojor change in the fortunes of thosewho owned the biggest estates in the city. Their estates however were not entirely desolated for long. Delhi wasstill a city that thrived on its role as a centre of trade, so the erosion of political importance did not mean anunmitigated decline. The continued prosperity of the mercantile classes is evident in the fair number of mosquesand temples constructed even during the late eighteenth century. Where the large estates of the erstwhilegrandees had existed, the ground was built up more densely. The new construction consisted largely of smallerhavelis, many of which survive to this day. The decline of imperial authority had one major negative effect – theneglect of civic facilities. The water in the canal that supplied the city’s channels dried up, the broadthoroughfares were encroached upon, and the city wall crumbled.With the arrival of British administration in 1803, political stability further improved the city’s economic state.Population increased, there was a spurt in construction activity – creating new havelis, mosques and manytemples. Some civic infrastructure was restored – the city wall and roads were repaired, and water was restoredin the channels and pools supplied by the canal. The British left their stamp on the city – building some structuresin a European style, modifying Mughal buildings with facades, and triggering some experimentation among thelocal population. Thus Begam Samru built a mansion in a completely European style (now called BhagirathPalace). The St James’ Church and the Residency building – part of Dara Shikoh’s mansion with a classical façadeadded to it, were prominent buildings of this era.In 1857 a widespread revolt against British rule engulfed north India, and in which Delhi played a major role.When the city fell to the reconquering British force after enjoying independence for four months, an ere of farreachingchange was inaugurated. There were demolitions of a large number of buildings immediately aroundthe fort, and inside the fort itself. The buildings around the Chandni Chowk square – the sarai and the hammam,were also demolished. The were replaced by a building which would soon become the Town Hall, and a clocktower (which has since disappeared, having collapsed during an earthquake). New roads such as Esplanade Roadand Egerton Road (popularly called Nai Sarak) were created. The canal that ran through the city, had long been aunsatisfactory – drying up frequently. It was bricked over and in 1908 a tram line was laid which ran through thecentre of the city till the early 1960s.Another factor for significant change was the arrival of the railway in 1867. The line was laid in the north of thecity, and necessitated the demolition of some built up area and a large portion of the city’s largest garden, Begumka Bagh. On the other hand it strengthened the trading networks and infrastructure of the city. Where earlier theGrand Trunk route had connected with the city and sarais such as Jahanara’s sarai at Chandni Chowk had housedmerchants, new hotels and dharamshalas came up and still serve their original role.While the transfer of the capital of British India to Delhi brought boosted the city’s importance, the constructionof the new capital, New Delhi gave Shahjahanabad an altered role. While New Delhi was the political andadministrative capital, populated by the members of the administration from the Viceroy down to the Indian staff,Shahjahanabad, now designated ‘Old Delhi’ was still an important trading centre and home to much of thepopulation of the city.Today Shahjahanabad in some crucial ways represents the essence of the city Shahjahan established more thanthree and a half centuries ago. In its vibrant social life, its rich and colourful bazars, its courtyard houses, itsnumerous and diverse religious structures and practices.31‐07‐2012 INTACH, Delhi Chapter 34
Medieval And Colonial Capital Cities Of DelhiDESCRIPTIONThe Planning of the Colonial Capital – New DelhiThe most important proclamation made by the British Emperor, King George V, at the third Imperial Durbar heldin Delhi in 1911 about the transfer of the capital from Calcutta to Delhi, catapulted the city into the global arenaall over again. His declaration paved the way for a new capital city that confirmed with/demonstrated Britishsupremacy and imperial vision. The British decided to build a capital city that would justly absorb the traditionsof the earlier ancient capitals in Delhi.The committee considered various options for the site. A site near the village of Malcha, to the south ofShahjahanabad was considered as its altitude, water table and its virgin soil had passed muster, in contrast to thearea along the banks of the river, where flooding would be a problem. Another option, the durbar site itself wasdisregarded because of the paucity of land for expansion, and other problems of drainage, sanitation, surfacealignment, and the price of limited land. Lord Hardinge appreciated the fact that the southern site allowed largetracts of under‐populated land to be acquired cheaper than that of the northern site. The southern area wasrelatively unencumbered with ruins of the past, relocation would not be a huge task there and it had ample spacefor the expansion of the capital. As seen, after much deliberation and considering the various ideas andsuggestions, the expert committee and its multi‐disciplinary advisers recommended the southern site (presentlocation) where the new imperial capital would dominate the landscape.Colonial New Deli was built commencing at the walls of Shahjahanabad, bounded on the east by the RiverYamuna, bordered on the southern side by the remains of Ferozshah Kotla and Indraprathsa, and Nizamuddin,with a western limit at the ridge. The land was mostly in agricultural use, and had been largely cleared of trees.Its agricultural yield indicated favourable conditions for avenue planting, parks and gardens. The ridge was to beafforested, which required irrigation, but would also provide a future water supply for the city.British architects Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker prepared the Master Plan for New Delhi. The brief given to thearchitects was to design, “A well‐planned city should stand complete at its birth and yet have the power ofreceiving additions without losing its character. There must be beauty combined with comfort. There must beconvenience – of arrangement as well as of communication. The main traffic routes must be parkways capable ofextension both in width and length. Communications both internal and external should be above reproach.Where possible there should be a preservation of natural beauties – hill, wood and water – and monuments ofantiquity and of the architectural splendours of modern times. Spaces needed for recreation of all classes. Theresult must be self‐contained yet possessing a latent elasticity for extension. The perfected whole must should beobtainable with due regard to economy.” The modern capital created by the duo, while having followed the briefand combinig two dominant town planning concepts of the time was indeed a masterpiece.Central Vista, which linked the capital complex marked by the Viceregal House on Raisina hill, revealsthe vision of the architects and the grand panorama they created. In keeping with the concept of animpressive central vista, Lutyens and Baker envisaged a massive memorial arch to form one of the structures ofthe main axis that is King’s Way. As the Champs Élysées in Paris culminates in the Arc du Triomphe, so Lutyensdecided to create an ‘All India War Memorial’, India Gate , which would be to Raj Path (King’s way) what the Arcdu Triomphe is to the Champs Élysées. This memorial designed by Lutyens, was completed in 1931 along with theIrwin ampi‐theatre (National Stadium) at the terminal point of Rajpath. Along the same axis is the canopy with abeautiful roof in red sandstone, designed by Lutyens, which originally housed the statue of the erstwhile BritishEmperor George V. The statue has been relocated from beneath the canopy to the Coronation Memorial Park inNorth Delhi. Rajpath is the site of one of India's most prominent displays of power and unity, the RepublicDay Parade held each year on 26th January which commemorates the date on which the Constitution ofIndia came into force. This 3.2 km long avenue also celebrates Republic Day parade every year, drawingmyriad of people across the country to cheer the celebration of India’s freedom with great splendor andpomp.The National Stadium – initially known as the Irwin Amphitheatre, after Lord Irwin( Viceroy of India from 1926‐31)– was constructed by the PWD as the culmination of the Central Vista to the east.. It was completed in 1933 and31‐07‐2012 INTACH, Delhi Chapter 35
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