issue 48 - AsiaLIFE Magazine

BOUGHT & SOLD

AsiaLIFE volume 48www.asialifehcmc.com22fronton the coverstoryboardgetaways08 News & Events12 Dispatches13 Street Smart: Ngo Tat To16 Q&A with Elka Ray18 Photo Essay: Mighty Mongolia22 The Human Trade30 Closer to Home32 From Prisoner to Poet34 The Streets of Vietnam36 Acting for a Good Cause38 Sittin' by the Bay40 Undiscovered Maléfoodstyle & designback42 Sterling's Saigon43 Le Bouchon De Saigon44 Berru45 Baan Thai46 Dress as the Romans Dress48 Connoisseur: Caviar49 Storia D'amore54 The List78 Spotlight80 Street Guide87 The Two of Us88 Keeping Tabs90 Pub Quiz3844CoverArt DirectionJohnny MurphyPhotographyFred Wissink4 asialife HCMC

note from the editorcontributorsChristina FeldtBrett DavisI will let you into one of the general rules of the trade whenit comes to writing editorials. You can either go one of tworoutes: the glib whip around of what you have in this month’sissue, usually capped off by a cheery salutation to ‘enjoy!’; oryou can take the other option (my usual choice) and attemptto make a connection with the reader and the content bytelling a personal tale that you can in some way relate back toyour cover story.Which brings me to our cover story this month looking atthe trafficking of people in Vietnam and surrounding countries.There is certainly nothing glib to be said about the third mostprofitable criminal enterprise in the world after drug traffickingand arms dealing. There are no throw-away lines that areappropriate about women sold into prostitution or as wives,children subjected to slave labour in horrific conditions insweatshops, fishing boats or mines.What is even more certain is that I have nothing to offer interms of personal experience that is even remotely comparableto the experiences of the victims of trafficking.However, after spending a fair bit of time researching,reading reports, reviewing press clippings and interviewingpeople I am much more knowledgeable about the issue andmuch sadder when I think about the ability humans have forthe most inhumane of behaviour. Cruelty, poverty, desperationand deeply held feelings of obligation towards family intersectto create the perfect breeding ground for people traffickers.There is a small bright note, though. There are dedicatedpeople in both government and NGOs working to directlyhelp victims and attack the root causes that make peoplevulnerable to trafficking. Giving children an education, helpingcommunities become economically viable and promotingawareness about the issue all have positive effects.As always, resources for these organisations are tight. Wecan do our part by supporting them however we can: money,time volunteered, or even just having the conversation thatmakes others aware of the seriousness of the issue. Becausethis just shouldn’t be.www.asialifeguide.comChristina Feldt is a 30-year-old photographerfrom Germany, currentlytraveling Southeast Asia and otherinteresting parts of the world such asMongolia and Ethiopia. Christina hasa degree in International Businessand has spent many years abroad.Since she purchased her first professionalcamera in 2004, Christina hasbeen addicted to photography. Shehas never gone anywhere withouther camera and loves to documentother people’s lives and the smallmoments that move us.Ellie DyerLondon-born Ellie Dyer is the ManagingEditor of AsiaLIFE Cambodia.She ditched her UK newspapercareer to relocate to Phnom Penhin 2009, and has been coveringCambodia-based stories ever since.She headed the news desk atCambodia's award-winning nationaldaily paper The Phnom Penh Post -directing coverage on major nationalnews stories - until 2011, when shemoved to AsiaLIFE to pursue herpassion for feature writing.032012ISSUE63Next time you're across theborder, check out the latestissue of AsiaLIFE Cambodiaor download it from www.asialifeguide.com.Find AsiaLIFE articles on6 asialife HCMC

NEWSEVENTSDay of DanceThe Day of Dance is an afternoonfull of fun-filled activitiesfor all the family, with the aimof raising as much money aspossible for KOTO Saigon, anot-for-profit restaurant andvocational training program thathelps street and disadvantagedyouth in Vietnam. The programwill have free, easy and fundance classes, a silent auction,snacks and drinks from KOTOkids and a performance by theUDG dancers. It will be heldon Sunday 4 March between2pm and 6pm at Dancenter, 52Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien,District 2, HCM City.Khoi Thom OpeningKhoi Thom is a totally newhybrid concept restaurantcombining Vietnamese andMexican food. The dishes aremade with a subtle play oningredients available in bothcountries, like transforming theVietnamese avocado shakeinto guacamole dip or chili concarne into Vietnamese sweetbean soup. With the addition ofpretty ladies slamming tequilaat the tables, a Cuban singerin the background and ourbrightly coloured Legorettastyle purpose built resto-bar,the restaurant hopes to attractserious crowds. Khoi Thom islocated on 29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem,District 3, HCM City and isopen from 11am till late (lastfood order 10:30pm) sevendays a week. There will also belive music and/or DJ on Thursdays,Fridays and SaturdaysEaster Charity BazaarThe Deck will host an EasterCharity Bazaar on Saturday7 March from 9am until 4pm.Vendors will be selling gifts,jewelry, handicrafts and otheritems. Part of the proceeds willbe donated to the IndochinaMedia Memorial Foundation(IMMF), a non profit organizationpromoting the education ofphoto-journalists in SoutheastAsia, and Heartbeat Vietnam,which funds life-saving heartsurgery for disadvantagedVietnamese children.Korean Air LaunchesDirect Flights to DanangKorean Air has recentlylaunched direct flights betweenIncheon International Airport inSeoul and Danang, Vietnam.The new service, the airline’sthird destination in Vietnam, willbe operated by a B737-800aircraft with a total capacity of145 seats. The flight will departSeoul Incheon every Thursdayand Sunday at 7pm and willarrive in Danang at 10.10pmon the same day. The returnflight will depart Danang at11.20pm every Thursday andSunday and will return to SeoulIncheon at 5.30am the nextday. With the launch of thisnew route, Korean Air connectspassengers from all destinationsworldwide to Danang viaIncheon International Airport,its award-winning hub. With theaddition of the Incheon-Danangroute, Korean Air now fliesbetween Seoul and Vietnam20 times a week, including theseven flights per week serviceon the Incheon-Hanoi route andthe 11 flights per week serviceon the Incheon-HCM City routeplus the new flights to Danang.Life Resorts Ha LongBay’s unveils new itinerariesLife Heritage Resort Ha LongBay has unveiled three over8 asialife HCMC

VietJetAir Adds More RoutesVietJetAir has announced it plans to add more routesto business and tourism hubs in Vietnam. In addition tothe current HCM City to Hanoi service, the carrier willlaunch new services between HCM City and Danang on27 April and between Hanoi and Nha Trang on 19 May.Bookings for these routes will be available from 5 Marchfollowed by a month of discounts. For details on thepromotions, visit www.vietjetair.com and www.facebook.com/vietjetairvietnam, or call 1900 1886. The airline will alsoincrease the number flights between HCM City and Hanoifrom three to eight starting in late April.night itineraries for guests of itsprivate fleet; including the mostextensive cruise route currentlyopen to travellers within theUNESCO Natural Heritage Site.Taking advantage of the compactdesign and shallow draftof its 22 heritage junks, LifeResorts’ itineraries are intendedto offer travellers a choice betweenthree distinct adventuresthrough previously unexploredregions of Ha Long Bay.Unfamiliar stops in the threeitineraries – the Eastern, Centraland Western Isles – take inCong Do Island, a floatingprimary school, Halong’s largestfishing village, Cat Ba NationalPark, a sail through the internationalshipping channel andalong the mouth of the Gulf ofTonkin.Saigon Players ClubNight and Script NightEnjoy a night of improv activitiesand acting workshops the firstWednesday of every month atLa Habana at 6 Cao Ba Quat,Dist.1, HCM City.Every third Wednesday ofthe month Boomarang BistroSaigon and Geisha's Coffee andTea House take turns hostingscript night, where guests cancome portray characters andgive readings from short plays.Boomarang is located in theCrescent, Phu My Hung, Dist.7 and Geisha's Coffee and TeaHouse is at 85 Pasteur Street,Dist. 1.Korean Air First toOperate Both BoeingFreighter TypesBoeing and Korean Air announcedin early February thedelivery of the airline’s first 747-8and 777 freighters. With thiisdelivery, Korean Air becomes thefirst airline in the world to operateboth freighters.“We are very proud tobecome the first airline in theworld to have the combinedstrengths of these two freight-

ers in its fleet,” said YangHo Cho, chairman of KoreanAir. “Our cargo fleet is beingimproved by these fuel-savingplanes. They can help reducecarbon emissions by 17 percentand this supports our goal tobe a responsible citizen of theworld.”Korea’s flagship carrier isthe first Boeing customer toorder both variations of the new747-8 airplane and is also a keysupplier partner on this newairplane program.UK pension schemesdiscussionAre you a UK citizen, have aBritish pension built up or planto go back to the UK? Even ifyou are not British, but haveworked in the UK and built up anoccupational pension there, joinPaul McLardie from Total WealthManagement and Yusseff Murphyfrom Sovereign Trust Hong Kongto discuss how the two specificBritish government schemesQROPS and QNUPS should bestructured and what the benefitsare for both long-term expatriatesand those looking to return to theUK. The discussion will be heldon 5 March from 6.30pm to 8pmat the Boomarang Bistro Saigonin the Crescent, Phu My Hung,District 7.For further informationand to register contact karin.eisenbach@t-wm.com or call(08) 38200623.Four More Doctors Join Family Medical PracticeFamily Medical Practice announced that Dr Serge Gradsteinjoined the pediatric team in early January. Hailing from Israel,Gradstein comes to FMP with many years of experiencein all aspects of pediatric care. Most recently he workedas senior pediatrician and consultant in infectious diseaseat the Pediatric Department of Kaplan Hospital in Israel.Gradstein will be working full time and is fluent in English,French and Hebrew. FMP also welcomes Dr Marion Diserbo,a General Practitioner from France who will be joining theadult medicine team. Diserbo has extensive experience asa GP in both Europe and Asia. He will be working full timeand speaks both French and English. Both Gradstein andDiserbo will be taking appointments Monday to Friday duringoffice hours and Saturday mornings until 12pm. Dr LudyFernandz and Dr Alfredo F. Pugal, both from the Philippinesalso joined Family Medical Practice in January. They will besupporting the dedicated night duty team and speak fluentEnglish. For further information about any of the team or theservices available at Family Medical Practice you can visittheir website at www.vietnammedicalpractice.com.asialife HCMC 11

dispatchesTravel news from around the region and beyondIconic Traditional LuxuryBangkok’s latest addition to the luxury residential market is Oriental Residence,a mixed-use development situated on prestigious Wireless Roadbetween the lush gardens of the US and Netherlands embassies. Alreadya coveted address among diplomats and visiting dignitaries, the newlyopened property comprises 145 serviced residences as well as 46 privateownership units on the uppermost floors with a private swimming pooland deck on the top floor. The stylishly appointed residences range fromexecutive deluxe and one-bedroom to three-bedroom residences, andwere furnished by Chanintr Living, Thailand’s leading retailer of luxuryhome furnishings.To make a reservation call +66 2125 9000 or visit oriental-residence.com for more information. Those visiting Bangkok this month are in luckas French-Thai cultural festival La Fête (www.lafete-bangkok.com) runsuntil 29 March, featuring a wide array of theatrical, dance and musicperformances. – Ellen BoonstraTokyo PerspectiveThe Palace Hotel Tokyo, a US$1.2 billion investment project, hasannounced it will open its doors on 17 May. Located beside theImperial Palace the 290-room hotel will succeed two previoushotels that had occupied the same spot since 1947 and will contendfor position as one of Japan’s finest independent properties. Thehotel will include an evian® SPA, a constellation of Michelin-starrestaurants, expansive views of the city, 17 retail outlets and anunderground passage to the Otemachi subway station. It’s locationnext to the Imperial Palace, a 3.5-square-kilometre green space inthe heart of the city, will give the hotel a naturally vibrant perspective.Reservations are now being accepted. For more informationvisit palacehotelstokyo.com.Chef Rick Stein At The Datai LangkawiThe Datai Langkawi resort in Malaysia will host UK celebritychef Rick Stein for three nights, from 13 to 15 April. Guestscan indulge in five course dinners prepared by Stein and TheDatai Langkawi's Executive Chef Conny Andersson, which willinclude some of Stein's favourite seafood dishes, inspired by hislove of Malay cuisine. The two will also offer fun and informativecooking demonstrations. The two-night packages start atUS$920 (deluxe room) to US$1,053 (superior villa) per personand includes a two night stay at The Datai Langkawi, dailybuffet breakfast, one dinner with Rick Stein and return airportlimousine transfer. To book, contact The Datai at (+60 4) 9592500 or visit www.thedatai.com.my.12 asialife HCMC

Alex McMillan takes a stroll downNgo Tat To in Binh Thanh District andencounters some very friendly locals.Huy Cong Cafe85/99 Chung Cu Ngo Tat ToNeed to find a quiet corner inSaigon? This local coffee shopis a good place to grab a lawnchair and play checkers withyour friend over a 2-hour icedcoffee. It is a popular hauntwith many locals, so come andmake some new friends andshare a 6,000 VND ca phe.TempleTurn in alley at 113 Ngo Tat ToShe is a hard site to miss ifyou’re standing on the street’sonly bridge: the toweringwhite alabaster lady, shininglike a beacon. The only problemis getting to her. Immediatelyafter the bridge, turnunder it and walk through thecolourful alleyways, have achat with some locals becausethey love to meet new peopleand even pose for pictures.Lua Viet70 Ngo Tat ToCheap, local meals abound atLua Viet which advertises beefsteak and meals for studentsasialife HCMC 13

and office workers, as it islocated across the street froma large school. Average pricearound 20,000 VND for a meal.City Garden59 Ngo Tat ToA new luxury complex iscurrently under construction,which has one to threebedroom apartments available.They have a great website fullof information if you are interestedin buying, curious aboutconstruction status, or justchecking out the layout plans.Visit citygarden.com.vn formore information. Questionsshould be directed to enquiries@citygarden.com.vn.Dakao V Bakery18 Ngo Tat ToThis small bakery is apparentlya chain around the city that featuressandwich baguettes. Thebread is freshly baked and incrediblysoft and chewy insidefor 6,000 VND. Take a sesameroll? They’ll have you sayingnom nom nom in no time.Alley Coffee with Grandma16/3 Ngo Tat ToOne of the most memorablestops along the street wasalso the most unassuming.Ths reporter stopped at adrink cart on the cusp of analleyway and talked with aVietnamese grandma whowas very chatty, friendly, and14 asialife HCMC

accommodating. She servesa mean glass of coke with abig smile.Hoa Huong DuongI4B1 Ngo Tat ToThere are a couple differentbubble tea shops next toeach other in this vicinity.Hoa Huong Duong isan extremely gaudy shopwith a good product. Thisreporter’s favorite wasa honeydew bubble tea,which was off the hook.Completely.Che My, Che Tai4 Ngo Tat ToA fantastic place to get theVietnamese desert, che, thisshop features a type of thedish which is akin to a fruitsalad with coconut milkand ice, known as che tai.It contains jelly, jack fruit,durian, and other unidentifiabledelights which tastedrefreshing on a hot afternoon.It costs 10,000 VNDa pop for a che tai, but ifdurian isn’t your thing,they also have 1,000 othervarieties and combinationsto choose from.Shang Palace boasts a largeselection of Roasted PeckingDuck, Roasted Pigeon, BBQSuckling Pig... which isprepared by our Hong Kongroasting chef Cheng YiuKwong with over 30 years ofculinary experience in HongKong and Philippine thatsurely tempts BBQ lovers.1st Floor , 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong StreetDistrict 1, HCMC, VietnamTel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164Fax: (84 8) 3822 6116Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vnWebsite: www.shangpalace.com.vnasialife HCMC 15

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ELKA RAYChris Mueller speaks to long-time Vietnam resident and newlypublished author Elka Ray about her new book Hanoi Jane, alighthearted novel about love and jealousy in Vietnam.What brought you to Vietnam?I have a degree in journalismand Asian Studies and when Iwas at university Vietnam wasan area of special interest to me.After high school, I spent sixmonths travelling in SoutheastAsia then in 1992 I came toVietnam as a tourist. It was fascinatingat the time so I becamemore interested in it and whenI graduated from universityI came back for a year and Iended up staying.You had a rather unconventionalchildhood having beenborn in Uganda and thenliving in remote geologicalsurvey camps in Canada formost of your childhood, doyou feel this influenced yourcareer choice?It had an influence on mydesire to travel because wemoved around all the time. Iwent to about a dozen differentschools by the time I was 12and my parents had lived inAfrica when I was little so allof that made me curious aboutthe rest of the world. Also I wasan only child and because weoften lived in places that wereso remote I had to entertainmyself, so I think that hasalso contributed to me beinga writer because I had to becreative to find something to dowith myself.You’ve worked for a numberof guidebooks and magazines,why did you make the switchfrom non-fiction to fiction?I have always really wantedto write fiction and have beenwriting fiction for a long time.Non-fiction was a way tosupport myself. I’ve been ableto stay in Vietnam for as longas I have because I was ableto work and still have time towrite. I don’t think I was eversuited to be a journalist becauseI’m really shy and I hate talkingto people on the phone andinconveniencing people, andI don’t like meeting people Idon’t know.What is the hardest part ofwriting fiction?It’s not the writing, but everythingelse that comes withit. It’s such a tough industryand it’s only recently that I’vestarted to think of it with amarketing perspective morethan an art perspective. Youhave to write what you feel andwhat you like, but that isn’tnecessarily going to be whatsells.Is there anything particularlydifficult about writing inVietnam?Now more and more it’s notjust about what you’ve writtenit’s about how marketable youare and publishers expect youto market your own work. Ifyou’re living in New York youwould be able to go aroundto give readings and there arelots of ways to sell yourself.Whereas if you’re in Vietnam,it’s more difficult and I try todownplay that aspect of whereI am because it’s more difficultto market.What is Hanoi Jane aboutand where did the idea comefrom?It’s a light adventure romancethat is fun and entertaining.It’s about this young Americanwoman who comes to Vietnamwith her fiancé then he dumpsher for this other woman whoseems absolutely perfect. Shewants to get him back and atthe same time find out aboutthis other woman. But the moreshe finds out about her, thedodgier she realizes the otherwoman actually is. The settingis obviously from when I livedin Hanoi for eight years. Thestory just kind of evolved andis based on the life of being asingle young expat and I thinksome of the emotions will befamiliar to expats; the sense ofalienation and trying to fit in.Writing is a tough gig andeveryone seems to be a critic,how do you deal with criticism?I’ve been writing fiction forat least 15 years and it’s onlyreally been in the last two yearsthat I’ve even shown peoplewhat I write. Before I felt soclosely connected to what I hadwritten that I would have beenso crushed by the criticism. I’vereally gotten over that and nowI don’t care. I’ve gotten to thepoint where I know my prose isgetting stronger and if peopledon’t like that particular storymaybe they’ll like somethingelse. In the last couple of yearsI’ve started to send out work topublishers and loads of themdon’t bother to reply and that’sreally hard when you put allthis effort into it, but I’ve alsogotten a lot of really good feedbackas well.Hanoi Jane can be bought onAmazon.com or in the Fahasabookstore in District 1.asialife HCMC 17

Photo EssayChristina Feldt spent four weeks in Mongolia and was fascinated by thenomadic life and interesting faces in this vast country. In her photo essay,she shows some of the people she met along the way and day-to-daymoments that make this country so special.18 asialife HCMC

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www.christinafeldt.comchristina@christinafeldt.comasialife HCMC 21

T H EHUMANTRADEMillions of human beings are bought and sold into forced labour around theworld each year. It is estimated half of this number are in the Asia-Pacificregion. So prevalent has people trafficking become it is now the third mostprofitable criminal activity after illegal drugs and arms dealing, worth aroundUS$10 billion annually. As with many developing countries, many of the mostvulnerable in Vietnam fall victim to people trafficking each year. By Brett Davis.Photos by Fred Wissink.22 asialife HCMC

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ou and your family are desperatelypoor, there is little or no work available andthe future looks like nothing so much as atightening noose. Things are worse if youare in debt, or perhaps a family memberis ill. Then, as if fate has suddenly decidedto deliver a little good fortune your way, aperson arrives on your doorstep with theoffer of a well paying job.What do you do? Like so many people insuch dire circumstances, you would likelyseize the opportunity with both hands. It isan offer many men, women and children inimpoverished areas of Vietnam accept, butwhich ultimately leads them down the rabbithole and into a world where they become atradable commodity.The trafficking in people, modern-dayslavery, essentially, is a scourge the worldover and unfortunately Vietnam is notexempt from the problem. There are otherfactors apart from poverty that play a role infeeding this most debasing trade, but thereare also efforts being made by governments,NGOs and individuals to combathuman trafficking.Forced labour in industries such asmanufacturing, agriculture and prostitution,both inside Vietnam and acrossinternational borders, are some of the mainmarkets for trafficked people. There arealso markets for women sold as wives tomen in countries such as China and Korea.There was even a high-profile case in 2011in which authorities uncovered a surrogacyring in Bangkok where several Vietnamesewomen were tricked into being surrogates.They were artificially inseminated in order toprovide babies for couples in Taiwan.Stories about the Vietnamese authoritiesbreaking up trafficking rings appear fairlyregularly in the local press. The governmenthas taken steps to strengthen the legalframework with the passing of an antitraffickingstatute in March last year andthe drawing up of a five-year national actionplan on trafficking.There is still much to be done to combathuman trafficking in Vietnam, as was notedin the US State Department’s Trafficking inPersons Report 2011 which ranked it as aTier 2 Watch List country. The report stated,“The Government of Vietnam does not fullycomply with the minimum standards for theelimination of trafficking; however, it is makingsignificant efforts to do so.”The report also noted that the VietnameseWomen’s Union, in partnership withNGOs, operates a number of shelters inthe country’s largest urban areas to provideLIENLien*, a 13-year-old girl, was thrilledwhen her uncle invited her mother,older sister and younger sister tocelebrate the New Year’s holiday inChina, promising that he would payfor everything. Once they arrived inChina, they were met by two men.Lien knew that they had been soldwhen her uncle accepted moneyfrom the men and hid it in his shoe,and the men told them that theycould no longer go home. Theywere then taken to a house andsold to the homeowners.For a couple of weeks, Lienstayed in the house with her motherand sisters, and each day the homeownerswould bring different menover and insist that Lien acceptone of them as her husband, butshe kept refusing. Eventually, hermother and sisters were sold to bewives, and Lien was forced to weda 30-year-old man. He came froma poor family, so she performedfieldwork and household chores,and cried daily, thinking of how torun away.She eventually hatched a planwith her older sister, who had beensold to a nearby family, to escape.Using grocery money they hadsaved, they hired a taxi to takethem to the police station, lyingthat they had paperwork to fill outthere. They then informed the policeabout the location of their motherand younger sister, and all fourwere returned to Vietnam. Theiruncle was later arrested and is nowserving a jail sentence for humantrafficking.counselling and vocational training to femalesex trafficking victims. They also havesmaller temporary shelters at some of thebusiest border crossings.Pacific Links is an NGO that works toprevent trafficking and rehabilitate victimsCANHCanh* is the oldest of five siblings.She attended school until she was14, then quit in order to work in thefields with her mum and dad, tendingto the rice paddies and raisingvegetables to feed their family.Canh’s uncle and aunt also livednearby, and when Canh was 17years old, they invited several womenfrom the village to China, saying theycould all earn money by becomingday labourers. In all, her aunt anduncle brought five young womenfrom the village to China, includingCanh’s cousin and aunt.Once in China, the five womenwere separated and sold to bewives. For three months, Canh livedwith a man who was nearly 40 yearsold. She thought of her family andhome on a daily basis. One day,after the man left for work, Canh ranaway, eventually meeting up withher cousin, and they hid together.Unbeknownst to them, one of thefive women had been able to escapeearly on, and notified the police, whowere searching for the remainingfour women. So when Canh andher cousin finally found a policeman,he recognized who they were andbrought them to the border station.Canh’s uncle and aunt were arrestedon charges of human trafficking.He committed suicide, and she iscurrently serving a prison sentence.Canh has been living at the PALSreintegration shelter for about sixmonths, and is learning how tosew. She would like to return to herhometown and sew Hmong clothingfor sale in the village markets.asialife HCMC 25

The United NationSestimates thatworldwide about2.5 million peopleare victims oftraffickingthrough their ADAPT program. They runtwo shelters, one in Lao Cai provincenear the Chinese border, the other in AnGiang province in the Mekong Delta. Adaptreintegration program manager PhuongThao says many of the girls who end up inprostitution or sold as wives are traffickedby someone close to them. “It can be afriend of a friend,” she says.The lure is usually the offer of a goodjob in a café or hair salon, earning enoughmoney so they can support their families.However, once they reach their destinationthe truth is revealed. Thao says girls in thissituation are often kept locked in a roomand guarded so they cannot escape. Alsocommon is the use of dept bondage.“Money for transportation, for food, foraccommodation is all put on a bill that theyowe the employer,” Thao says. “They forcethem to pay for makeup and clothes thatare very fancy and the boss will say, ‘Youcannot leave until you work to pay off yourdebt.’”Some NGOs have girls who have returnedhome after being trafficked referredto them by local authorities. At other timesthey will be more proactive and try to trackdown the child and return them home withthe cooperation of local authorities andinternational organizations such as Interpoland the Red Cross.The Blue Dragon Foundation hasrescued more than 160 children traffickedto work mainly in the garment industry forlittle or no pay and in terrible conditions.Most of these children come from villagesor communes in the Hue area. Blue Dragonfounder Michael Brosowski says once theyhave written permission from parents whowant their children returned, they have tomove quickly.“The traffickers usually have friends inthe area and they will pass the word onand the kids will be moved,” he says.They typically spend about 36 hoursin HCM City on these missions and areassisted by the Hue Red Cross and localleaders to negotiate the children’s return.“It is great because these leaders whocome with us on these missions thenbecome advocates [for the fight againsttrafficking] back in the community,” hesays. While Brosowski believes poverty is amajor factor in making communities vulnerableto trafficking he thinks there are otherparts to the equation. “It is also to do withattitudes,” he says.It is a sentiment echoed by CarolineTicarro-Parker, founder of the Catalyst26 asialife HCMC

Foundation, which conducts communityprograms in Kien Giang province to helpfight human trafficking. She says the traffickersoffer people an immediate, shorttermsolution to their money problems, butthere are also deeply entrenched attitudestowards daughters and a sense of obligationto family that exacerbates the situation.“We have had many, many counselingsessions where mum and dad say, ‘well,she’s a girl, so what?’ So, there is no valueto the girl, there is no value to the family,”she says. “The sense of obligation from agirl’s point of view is unimaginably strong.We can’t break that. We met girls two orthree years ago that would absolutely do itif mum and dad said this is what you haveto do.”When the girls do return home it can bean uphill battle to reintegrate them into thecommunity. They have been traumatizedby their experiences. Thao says someof the girls they take in at the ADAPTshelters have physical and psychologicalinjuries.“A lot of times at first they do not want tosay anything, they are very closed off. Othersare wild, they don’t want to do anythingyou say. They don’t trust anybody,” shesays.“Some of them come back with scars.The actual physical damage we don’tsee as much because they have been inCambodia, they have been waiting forpaperwork abroad for a while. Most of thephysical wounds have healed but we seethe scars. The most significant though isthe mental trauma.”She says after about a year the girls arepretty much back to normal, particularlyMAIMai* grew up in a village in northernVietnam with her parents and twoyounger brothers. A couple of yearsago, Mai’s friend had a suitor whoinvited the two young women to visitLao Cai for a few days of sightseeing.He lead them across a river toa friend’s house that, unbeknownstto Mai or her friend, was over theborder in China.Three days later, another twowomen were brought to the house,and tearfully admitted to Mai thatthey had been sold into prostitution.It wasn’t until this point that Mairealized she and her friend had alsobeen sold. She attempted to runaway, but was caught and beaten byher captors. Shortly after, Mai’s friendand the two new young women weretaken away; to this day, Mai doesn’tknow where they are.Mai suffered regular beatings forrefusing to become a prostitute. Hercaptors threatened to sell her tobecome a villager’s wife deep in thejungle, where she wouldn’t be ableto escape. After a few weeks, Maifinally pretended to agree to workas a prostitute, knowing her captorswould then give her money to buynew clothes. Early the next morning,she left for the market, and onceon the road, she ran as far as shecould, then used the money to payfor a taxi to the police station.asialife HCMC 27

Criminals earn anestimated US$10 billionevery year throughbuying and sellinghuman beings28 asialife HCMC

when they go back to school. However therecan be a lingering stigmatism for these girls.“People talk, people gossip,” Thao says.“Sometimes the girl won’t tell people whatshe was doing in Cambodia, but she isTHUThu* lived with her parents andyounger sister, and attended schooluntil 9th grade. When she was 15,her father and mother separated,and her mother took the two younggirls with her to Cambodia.In Cambodia, her mother wouldleave for work every morning, leavingher daughters at home.During the day, many peoplewould stop by, trying to collect ondebts that her mother owed. WhenThu and her sister attempted tofind work to earn money, they weretricked and sold to a brothel.Thu and her sister were forcedto work in the brothel for a month,before the Interpol conducted a raidand rescued more than 10 youngwomen from the building. Theywere taken to a shelter in Cambodia,where they stayed for a year.During that time, Thu studied Englishand computer skills, and evenbecame fluent enough in Khmer tofinish 4th grade in Cambodia.Upon their return to Vietnam,Pacific Links has assisted Thu andher sister for the past four years.They recently graduated from 12thgrade, and both studied sewingduring the summers, so that theycould earn money while in school.Currently, Thu is attending a vocationalschool for tourism, while hersister is studying medicine.Courtesy of the Pacific LinksFoundation* Names have been changed toprotect confidentiality.TERROR AT SEAHuman trafficking is not limited to thetrade of women and children. ThroughoutAsia, labour trafficking is big business.Ellie Dyer finds out more.working in a nail salon so people will think,‘Oh she’s been in Cambodia and now sheis working in a nail salon, I don’t want her todo my nails because she is probably sick.’”While all these efforts are being made toassist the victims, even more is being doneto strengthen the most vulnerable communitiesto protect people from falling into thehands of traffickers in the first place.Organisations like Pacific Links, BlueDragon Foundation and the Catalyst Foundationconduct a range of programs to raiseawareness about the dangers of humantrafficking, assist children to continue theireducation, and provide meaningful opportunitiesto break the poverty cycle.It is a task that must seem insurmountable,even at the best of times. To MichaelBrosowski, while the issue is a complexone, the way forward is clear. “The goal issimple: we want kids home and in school,”he says.Caroline Ticarro-Parker says raisingawareness among communities andthose most at risk will help abolish humantrafficking, just as slavery was abolished.She says, “The reason we keep going isbecause we know this generation of girlsare going to grow up and learn they cannotbe bought.”Lured away from their homes withpromise of good jobs, men across Asiaare being sold into slavery to work inplantations, factories and the now-notoriousThai fishing industry.Such labourers face the risk of beingdrugged and forced to work aroundthe clock – all for little to no pay. Someare reportedly murdered when they aretoo exhausted to work. The lucky oneswho manage to return home tell horrificstories of abuse.“I was told by men that they witnessedother men on board beingkilled and thrown overboard by thecaptain or other officers when thosefishermen could no longer work,” saysPhil Robertson, deputy director of theHuman Rights Watch’s Asia division,who has interviewed both Burmese andCambodian labourers used as forcedlabour at sea.“The conditions are as bad as thehuman imagination can conjure up. TheThai fishing industry uses trafficked labourin a systematic and pervasive manner,employing a business model that ispremised on forcing men and boys towork for months and years round theclock, with little rest, dangerous workingconditions, and the constant menace ofphysical abuse,” he adds.The problem is one that stretchesacross the globe. Fishermen have beenknown to flee from boats in the watersof eastern Indonesia, ports in Sarawak,Malaysia, or even farther afield – in Yemenand Somalia. In Cambodia, localmedia reports have told of whole villagesbeing emptied of young men, who havebeen trafficked abroad with the hope ofsupporting their families financially.The Thai government is implementingits human trafficking law, accordingto the United States’ 2011 trafficking inpersons report, but rights groups saymore must be done to hold those responsiblefor such human rights abusesaccountable.Robertson adds that global consumersshould demand that governmentsand importers raise concerns over products,such as Thai seafood, that can“contain the blood, sweat and in somecases lives of trafficked men and boys.”asialife HCMC 29

Foreign hotel operators across the country are waking up to the environmental and economicalbenefits of supplying their hotels with local products, writes Esther de la Cruz.In one of the open-air bungalowslining the Bai Dai beach inQuy Nhon, a young couple lingersover a selection of scentedmassage oils. In the end theypass over familiar productsfrom a high-end European linein favour of an exotic barkbasedfragrance from the forestsof northern Vietnam.Made from natural ingredientsfound in Vietnam’sremotest corners, four of theseoriginal blends were createdexclusively for Life Wellness Resortin Quy Nhon. The oils areso well received by spa-goersthat Life Resorts is rewriting itstreatment menu to feature onlylocal products.“Our guests come all thisway and want to experiencewhat Vietnam has to offer,” saysTrevor Yoho, the resort’s generalmanager. “We purposely seekout high quality, hard-to-findlocal products and bring themhere where they can be discoveredand appreciated.”From lethargic Quy Nhon tomajestic Halong Bay to dynamicHo Chi Minh City, foreignhotel operators are rethinkingold buying practices. Recentdevelopment has boosted thecountry’s manufacturing power,opening sustainable sourcing asa viable purchasing strategy.For the first time, Vietnam’shospitality industry is wakingup to the environmental andeconomical benefits of buyingcloser to home.The framework is now inplace for properties looking totake advantage of local sourcing,says Stephen O’Grady, headof CrossKeys Hospitality andformer managing director ofVinaCapital Hotels and ResortsManagement Ltd.“Times have changed sincethe days when a hotel developerin Vietnam had to importeverything from light fixtures tobed linen,” says O’Grady.Speaking from 12 years ofexperience at the forefront ofVietnam’s hospitality landscape,O’Grady cites furnituremanufacturing as an exampleof a key industry where localcompanies have stepped up tosupport hotel management anddesign teams.“Over the past few years Vietnam’sfurniture makers haverisen to the challenge, and arenow supplying the majority ofinternational hospitality projectsin Vietnam,” says O’Grady.“Even if certain products stillneed to be imported, specializedprocurement companiesin Vietnam are achieving bestbuying prices and practicesthat were out of the question adecade ago.”O’Grady believes that withlocal procurement companies,the increasing expertise of thecountry’s work force and itsexpanding list of high-qualityproducts, hotel operators inVietnam have greater opportunitythan ever before to exceedguests’ expectations and collecta healthy return on investment.Kurt Walter, general directorof the Apple Tree Group, isamong those making the mostof Vietnam’s newly availablecommodities.“Ten years ago, the bestfurniture you could buy locallywas wrought iron. Our oldwicker deck chairs had to beconstantly replaced. Every twoseasons they’d just rot away inthe sea air,” says Walter, speakingof the furniture rotation onthe Emeraude Classic Cruises,Halong Bay.Today, the Emeraude’s deckand bar furniture comes from alocal supplier, who uses a fishbone weave technique donewith modern machinery. Thefinished product is almost indistinguishablefrom real wicker,though in fact made from sturdyplastic.“With better technology andbetter durability, we expect thefurniture to last three times aslong, and of course we save lotsof money,” says Walter.And while the bottom line istop of mind for many managementteams when it comes toproduct sourcing, some five-staroutfits like the Caravelle Hotelin HCM City consider buyinglocal an ethical responsibility.The second property in Vietnamto be awarded EarthCheckSilver Certification, the Caravelleimplements a slew of eco-friendlyprinciples in its day-to-dayoperations. Promoting sustainabledevelopment through localsourcing is one of them.“Whenever possible, we buyfrom within Vietnam as partof our responsible purchasingstrategy,” says John Gardner,the hotel’s general manager.“Whether we invest in chinawarefrom Binh Duong, orconstruction materials fromDong Nai, we support the localeconomy. At the same time, weavoid clocking up thousands oftransport miles that have a hugeimpact on our carbon footprint.”Further from Vietnam’sbusiest tourist trails, higherstandards and shortened deliverytimes are paving the way forlocal produce to reach kitchensin top hotel restaurants.In the former imperial capitalof Hue, La Residence Hotel andSpa operates Le Parfum, theonly fine-dining restaurant in acity once famed for its legendarycuisine.Executive chef La Thua An,himself a Hue native, selectshis produce from scatteredpoints in Vietnam accordingto their established quality:fresh vegetables from Dalat,fish from Nha Trang, coffeefrom the Central Highlands,miscellaneous ingredientsfrom Danang and Hanoi. Allof it must meet the standardsof La Residence’s five-starcredentials.Outside the kitchen as well,La Residence serves as anideal platform for showcasingVietnamese products to aninternational audience. About90 per cent of the productsguests encounter at La Residenceare made in Vietnam,according to the hotel’s generalmanager Anthony Gill. Locallymade handicrafts, artwork andfurniture give the property arich, distinctively Vietnamesecharacter.“La Residence borrowsmuch of its identity fromthe work of local businessesand artisans,” says Gill. “Butthe sense of destination andculture our guests gain wheninteracting with these productsis irreplaceable.”30 asialife HCMC

Emeraude - Ha Long BayEmeraude - Ha Long BayDuluxe City View - Caravelle HotelSpa Bungalow - Life ResortLa Residentasialife HCMC 31

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While serving a 16 year prison sentence for attempted murder, Kosal Khievfound redemption in the spoken word. Ellie Dyer meets the budding poet andlearns how he turned his troubled life around. Photo by Dylan Walker.Kosal Khiev didn’t see sunlightfor more than a year after beinglocked in “the hole”. Brandeda danger to society and putin solitary confinement in anAmerican prison after a jailfight, the young Cambodianrefugee – serving 16 years for sixattempted murders - had seenhis life spiral out of control.Gang violence led the then21-year-old to his eight footby three foot cell, in which hewould spend 23 hours a day for18 months.Born in a Thai refugee campfollowing his family’s escapefrom the Khmer Rouge, Kosalmoved to the US as a baby in1981. He grew to be an angry,out-of-control Californian teentorn between two culturalidentities. Following an ill-fatedstint at a brutal boy’s home,which was later closed downfor abuse, a beaten and bruisedKosal turned to a new supportnetwork: the gang.Controlled by a group of olderboys and men, one of whomhas since been given the deathpenalty, the gang put Kosal on apath of violence that would leadto his involvement in a shootoutwhile aged just 16. After atwo-year fight against a possiblelife sentence for his part in theviolence, Kosal – then knownas “Minor” - accepted a pleabargain that would confine himin America’s prison system forhis formative adult life.“I was at the point that Ididn’t care. I thought ‘who caresif I live or die’... I was in a stateof mind that it was either themor me,” says Kosal, today aged31, describing his younger self.“I look back on myself then andfeel a lot of shame and regret.I could never see myself nowtaking a life.”Against all odds, he managedto turn his life around whilein jail and has lived in PhnomPenh since his deportation fromthe US last year – after serving14 years of his sentence.It was as his skin paled in“the hole” that Kosal foundan interest that would provehis psychological escape andultimately his redemption: hestarted to read. “I rememberreading The Three Musketeersand I was laughing my eyes out,then at one point I was angryand threw the book across mycell,” he says. Reading led Kosalto consider why he had endedup in prison, and he realisedthat there had “always been achoice”.A chance encounter in aprison laundry room followingKosal’s release from solitaryconfinement would prove thenext turning point. “Therewere three guys,” he recalls.“I walked by them, but then Iheard something – they werespitting poetry.”Drawn in by their verse, hebegan to attend poetry classes.An inspired Kosal soon startedto write lyrics like a “madman”.From that moment, spokenverse would provide a channelfor his feelings and experiences– it became a way for him to just“let it out”.As his natural gift becamerecognised within the prison,Kosal was asked to facilitate thewriting class. Over the next decadeof his sentence, he wouldgo on to work with at-risk teens,showing them a new way tocommunicate their feelings.“It was an amazing opportunity,as that’s where I felt Icould have an impact. It was asthough they were going throughwhat I went through and notbeing able to express what theywere feeling. I wanted others totell their story,” he says.Although Kosal has nowturned his back on violence,he still bears marks from hispast. The words “abandoned”and “tortured” are tattooed onhis arms, but the phrase “Godbless my family” lies around hisneck - seemingly symbolisinghis transformation. “My familyare proud. They seem able to seethe change in me. They thoughtI was lost,” he says.But Kosal’s release last yearmarked the beginning of a newkind of sentence.Rather than a return to familylife. He was deported to Cambodia– a country that he hadnever thought of as a potentialhome until he watched a featureabout the Kingdom on an Oprahshow while in prison. It was amoment that made him realisewhat he faced, in which he"nearly broke down".Confronted with the realityof his situation, the eloquent returneeis determined to continueto give youth a voice. Whilecoming to terms with freedomin Cambodia, he is taking lifein stride by volunteering withNGOs, taking part in poetrynights and collaborating witharts organisation Studio Revoltto help encourage spoken wordpoetry.For Kosal, who says he is nowon the right track, encouragingyouth to express their feelingsis key.“They don’t have to go thesame way and walk the samepath [as me]… they can take meas a warning sign,” he says. “Itmay be dark, it might not feellike there is light at the end ofthe tunnel – but there is. A lot ofmy stuff is sad and full of anger,but there is an underlying currentof hope.”To hear Kosal’s work or learn morevisit spokenkosal.com or studiorevolt.comasialife HCMC 33

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The centre of Ho Chi Minh Cityis like a potted history of theVietnamese resistance againstthe Chinese. Le Loi Street isnamed after a prosperouslandowner from Thanh Hoaprovince who took on the mightof the Chinese Minh Dynastyat the beginning of the 15thcentury.The Minh had seized onthe political weakness of theVietnamese Tran throne andinvaded aiming to steal as manyresources as they could. Theyimposed probably the harshestauthoritarian regime Vietnamever experienced, issued IDcards to every household, imposedheavy taxes and roundedup the population into workgroups that were forced to mineprecious stones, harvest lacquertrees and grow spices and herbsfor China.Not surprisingly, the Vietnameserebelled, led by Le Loi.The legend goes that a goldenturtle gave him a magic swordwhich he used to repel theChinese—then he had to give itback when the job was done. Infact, he was the quintessentialVietnamese leader, a modelfor Ho Chi Minh. He garneredpeasant support and mounted aguerrilla war against the Minhfrom 1418 to 1428. After defeatingthe Chinese, Le Loi magnanimouslygave them shipsand supplies to make their wayhome then ascended the thronetaking the name Le Thai To. Ifonly the US had taken heed ofthis history, the 20 th century mayhave been very different.Across Le Loi Street isNguyen Hue Street. He was theleader of the Tay Son brotherswho united Vietnam at the endof the 18th century. He defeatedthe Nguyen Lords in the south,the Trinh Lords in the northand the Le king was forced toflee to China. He returned witha Chinese Army that NguyenHue defeated at Dong Da, nowa suburb of Hanoi. It is said thebones of 10,000 Chinese soldierslie buried in a mound next toNguyen Hue Square at DongDa.At the end of Le Loi near theBen Thanh Market roundaboutare Le Lai and Nguyen Traistreets. Le Lai was one of LeLoi’s generals. In one battle withthe Chinese, Le Loi looked certainto be defeated and lose hislife. Le Lai rushed forward in adiversionary attack sacrificinghimself to save his leader.Nguyen Trai became a mandarinat just 20 years old. TheMinh confined him to Hanoiwhen they invaded, but he escapedand became Le Loi’s chiefstrategist and closest advisor.Commands, orders and lettersfrom Le Loi were probably thework of Nguyen Trai who wasalso a great poet. His most famouswork was Binh Ngo Sach(Book on Defeating the Wu). Itbecame Vietnam’s declaration ofindependence.Nguyen Trai’s life endedtragically. Le Thai To’s son, LeThai Tong was keen on one ofNguyen Trai’s concubines andwent to visit Nguyen Trai’shome. The next day, Le ThaiTong died mysteriously. NguyenTrai’s concubine was accused ofregicide and the entire familyexecuted. Twenty years later,one of Vietnam’s greatest monarchs,Le Thanh Tong declaredan injustice had occurred andrestored Nguyen Trai and hisconcubine. In 1985, UNESCOnamed Nguyen Trai a World’sGreat Man of Culture.On the other side of the BenThanh roundabout are PhamNgu Lao and Tran Hung Daostreets. This is fitting becausethese two great heroes werewelded together in the defeatof the Mongol Chinese YuanDynasty at the end of the 13thcentury.Three times, in 1257, 1284,and 1287, the Mongols underthe wily Kubilai Khan triedto invade Vietnam, and threetimes the Vietnamese resistedthem. On the third occasion,Tran Hung Dao was to lead theVietnamese to victory by usinga ploy that previous ruler, NgoQuyen had thought up. TranHung Dao drove iron tippedstakes into the Bach Dang Riveroutside Hanoi and manoeuvredthe Chinese fleet onto them destroying,burning or capturing400 ships.The Mongol leader fled toLang Son where Pham Ngu Laohad ambushes set on the passesto China. The Mongols nevercame back. But wisely, the Vietnamesepaid tribute to the Yuanjust in case.asialife HCMC 35

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Education for Development country coordinator Hanna Smokcum stresseshow crucial volunteers are to NGOs and offers tips on how anyone canbecome involved with meaningful volunteer work.Across Vietnam volunteers aremaking huge contributionsto development work. It’sclear from an NGO perspectivehow valuable volunteersare to achieving our missions,whether that be in education,health, the environment, or anyother sector.This is especially true inthe current global economiccontext. The NGO sector hasbeen severely affected as theeconomic crisis continues to hithard across the world. There isnow less funding available fordevelopment work as spendingis cut back. The situation inVietnam is even more complex;economic growth is leadingsome international organisationsto plan the withdrawal oftheir operations from the country,to focus on other areas, andthose organisations that remainare working with limited HRbudgets, so volunteers canmake a real difference.But what about from thevolunteer’s perspective? In myexperience, the motivationsfor volunteering are as diverseas volunteers themselves andrange from the personal tothe professional, includingsupporting a cause you reallybelieve in, giving back to thecommunity, developing skills,or gaining experience. Thereare also social aspects, likemaking friends in a new placeor opportunities to really get toknow and understand a differentculture.So who volunteers? Thereis no typical volunteer profile.People of all ages and backgroundsvolunteer—fromsecondary school studentswho organise fundraisers, toretired people who wouldlike to use their skills to supporta good cause. Corporateemployees can get involvedthrough corporate sponsorshipprogrammes, as their companyallows them to dedicate somework hours to volunteer inthe community. People whoaren’t currently working mightdecide to use some of their freetime to support a good cause.As NGOs often need a range ofvolunteers for different roles,you can normally find somethingthat fits your experience,interests and availability.So where do you start ifyou’re considering volunteeringin HCM City? It’s worthdoing a bit of research to findan organisation you’re reallyinterested in. Many NGOs andcharities advertise in Englishlanguage magazines, or friendsmight be able to recommenda good cause. The VUFONGO Resource Centre offers adirectory of NGOs working inVietnam. Visiting their website,ngocentre.org.vn, will give youa good understanding of thework they do, and how you canget involved. Whatever youdecide, your support can makea big difference.Education for Development(EFD) is an internationalorganisation working in andaround HCM City. EFD’s sloganis, “Change (y)our world.Act local.” Sounds simple, butwhat does it mean?At EFD we believe thateducation improves quality oflife for disadvantaged childrenand youth and allows them todevelop to their full potential,whether they are affected bypoverty, illness or disability. Wealso believe that services thatdirectly assist local childrenand youth should be implementedby local organisations,so we strengthen and empowerthem to improve and expandtheir educational services, sothey can plan and develop theiractivities independently.EFD local partners includechildren’s homes, vocationaltraining centres, special educationschools and disabilityorganisations. Over the past15 years, more than 36,000children have benefitted fromEFD projects. Activities includebuilding and equippingclassrooms, libraries, computerrooms and workshops,providing specialist trainingfor teachers, and managementconsultancy to improve theeffectiveness and sustainabilityof local education providers.A lot of this work wouldn’tget done without volunteersupport; volunteers play a crucialrole in EFD’s activities. Inthe past year alone, volunteershave joined the team to supportoffice administration, graphicdesign, publicity, fundraising,and event organisation. Theyhave shared their professionalskills in HR management andaccountancy with local organisations,coordinated logistics,designed training courses andmaterials, and facilitated workshops.Volunteers work at ouroffices, at local organisations,from their homes, schools andoffices, or online.Top Tips ForVolunteering:Motivation: If you’re goingto commit to volunteering,it’s worth looking for somethingthat really motivatesyou, whether it’s a causeyou really believe in, orpractical experience you’dlike to gain.Time: Think carefullyabout how much time youcan dedicate to volunteering.Can you really managethree mornings a week? Orwould once a week be morerealistic? It’s nearly alwayspossible to increase yourhours, but reducing themonce you’ve already committedcould be trickier.Location: Volunteering atan office or school offerslots of opportunities tomeet new people and bepart of a team, but if you’retoo busy to regularly commute,or if working fromhome suits you better,online volunteering couldbe a better option.Enjoy! Volunteering can bea rewarding experience onmany levels, as long as it’sa good fit for you and theorganisation. If you’re clearabout what you expect, andwhat you can offer, youshould find there’s a greatopportunity out there foryou.To find out more about EFD’swork, and how you can supportor get involved, visitwww.educationfordevelopment.org.asialife HCMC 37

Tucked away in a picturesque cove on Nha Trang Bay, Mia Nha Trang resort is the perfectweekend escape from Saigon writes Brett Davis. Photos by Fred Wissink.Mia Nha Trang resortI always like flying into the airportat Cam Ranh Bay. The planebanks steeply left and right,making a figure-eight pattern toline up the approach for landing.It affords a great view of the baybelow: the scattering of islands,some with small villages nearthe shore, others intriguinglydeserted, and the fleet of fishingboats riding the gentle swells ofthe stunningly blue water.Turning right out of the airportand heading north towardsNha Trang, the drive along thecoast is equally remarkable. Thistime, though, the drive will onlytake half of the usual 30 minutesas my destination is the Mia NhaTrang resort, located halfwaybetween landing strip and glitterstrip.Each time I have driven thisroad over the last few years andbeen captivated by the scenery,I’ve always thought how cool itwould be to stay somewhere onCam Ran Bay and have longerto take it all in. Fortunately, I amobviously not the only person tohave this idea.As we sweep around a bendmy first sight of the property isof the reception buildings andthe under-construction owners’residence/Presidential suite. Thelatter is indeed startling and Ican’t wait to see it when it is fullycomplete. The external structureis largely in place and its sizeand position, jutting out from therock and hanging high above thecrashing waves, make it look likethe kind of pad a Bond villainwould be found in.The reception building alsotakes advantage of its location.Open at front and back you lookfrom the arrival point throughto a wide expanse of ocean. It isstunning, and I feel slightly oddgiven it was only about two-anda-halfhours ago that my alarmclock went off at home in Saigon.The majority of the resort islaid out below in a small covewith its own white-sand beach.Two small blocks of condos andabout 20 free-standing villasare scattered around manicuredgrounds sloping gently to themain pool and restaurant area.I am installed in one of thesand court villas, which are themost numerous, and differ onlyfrom the beach front villas in thatthey do not have an individualplunge pool. This is not a greatcrisis as the main pool is allof thirty yards away besideSandals, the resort’s main diningarea. It’s early, so that’s where Ihead and prop myself at the barfor a coffee.You certainly can’t fault thelocation: perched right on thesand with sweeping view alongthe coast in both directions. Aftera perfect latte I’m on my wayout when I spot Sandals’ tastylookingwine cellar and pop infor a look. I spy a few choicebottles including an extensiverange of Francis Ford Coppola’swines and even a bottle of 2003Penfolds Grange.I’m soon joined by CindyDuncan, the young South Afri-38 asialife HCMC

Sailing Club Nha Trangcan food and beverage managerwho gives me the run-down onthe wine stock. Cindy is from theWestern Cape area near Capetown,one of the most stunningwine regions in the world, and itis apparent she knows her stuff.Cindy will keep popping up atmy shoulder over the next threedays like a Tinkerbell of friendlyand polished service. I soon learnthat this is a hallmark of all thestaff at Mia, which honestly hasthe highest standard of service Ihave encountered at a resort inthis country. Even the gardenersstop and smile and say helloas you pass.That evening I have dinnerwith the resort’s executive chefBenjamin Thomalla, coincidentallyalso from the Western Caperegion of South Africa. Over atasting menu that includes perfectlyseared tuna with sesameseeds and a main of rib fillet withmashed potato, Thomalla tellsme how the Sandals’ menu is retainingits family-orientated andrustic element, but evolving tosomething with a slightly morecontemporary appeal.Next afternoon I pop intotown to visit Mia’s sister NhaTrang property, the recentlyrenovated Sailing Club. Thespace has a natural yet funkyfeel with lots of stressed timberand brightly-coloured softfurnishings.Over lunch and an enjoyablywide-ranging chat, Sailing ClubGroup vice director PatrickHaninger outlines their philosophyof continually researchingnew ideas and staying abreast ofthe latest trends. “We have theonly truly world-class beach clubin Vietnam,” he says. Haningerexplains how the club morphsfrom day-time beach club tocasual evening dining to nighttimehotspot.This seems like something ofa high-wire act, but when wemeet again later before dinnerI can see phase two in action.Returning a few hours laterjust before midnight I can tellfrom half a block away phasethree is in full swing. The placeis heaving with people, but theopen-air venue keeps it frombeing overpowering.After a sea-salt scrub and massageat Mia’s excellent Xanh spathe next day, my foggy head hascleared by the time I join GeneralManager Louis Walters and chefThomalla at Mojito, the resortsup-market lounge and diningvenue attached to the cliff-topreception building. Needless tosay it is a ridiculously beautifulspot to take in the sunset andget a preview of their modernwith-an-Asian-twistmenu. Theroasted salmon with bacon andpassion fruit is a killer combo, asis the tempura chocolate truffleswith chocolate ice cream.It has been a revelatory coupleof days. I am pretty sure I havefound my new escape-Saigondestination.mianhatrang.comsailingclubnhatrang.comasialife HCMC 39

Undiscovered MaléMost visitors to Maldives, a South Asian country of nearly 1,200 islands, bypassthe capital of Malé in favour of the resorts. Exploring the often-overlooked city,Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen finds its charms merit a stopover.White sand beaches, swayingpalm trees and aquamarine sea.That’s the setting people cometo Maldives to experience.The Republic of Maldivesmay be Asia’s smallest nation interritory and population—with298 square kilometres of landand under 400,000 people—butits reputation is great. Locatedoff the coast of Sri Lanka, Maldivesoffers breathtaking tropicalbeauty, exotic aquatic lifeand a secluded atmosphere inthe middle of the Indian Ocean.“This is paradise,” I remarkto a Maldivian friend uponarriving at one island resort’sstunning beach. “That’s whatthey say,” he replies with ashrug.Of the country’s 1,190 islands,about 90 are resorts. Hydroplanesand speedboats waitat the airport to carry guestsdirectly to pristine paradisesboth near and far.But that’s not all there is toMaldives. Although surroundedby the same crystal clearwaters, the urban capital ofMalé feels worlds apart. Malécity comprises four islets, withthe main part of the capitalcovering the whole of MaléIsland. Crammed with cars,motorbikes and around a thirdof the Maldivian population,Malé is one of the most denselypopulated islands in the world.Sunni Islam is the officialreligion of the country, whichmeans the call to prayer can beheard five times a day throughoutMalé. Forget sipping fruitycocktails on this island - alcoholis banned everywhere inMaldives except for the resorts.Instead of bars, coffee shops arewhere friends gather to chitchatover cappuccinos. The onlybeach is known as the “artificialbeach”, created with shipped-insand, where women are morelikely to be dressed in full clothingand veils than bikinis.Although the island may nothave the fun-in-the-sun vibe ofthe resorts, a trip to Malé is amust for those interested in encounteringMaldivian culture.The ambience is distinctlymaritime, with boats bobbing inthe harbour and the scent of seasalt in the air. The brilliance ofthe turquoise waters is matchedby the brightness of buildingspainted in sherbet shades ofpeach, blue, violet and pep-40 asialife HCMC

Photos by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyenpermint. Narrow streets windthroughout the island, whichcan be circumnavigated via footin about an hour.I spend my first morning inMalé strolling around, passingby the Hukuru Miskiy (FridayMosque), which was built in1658 and is currently underconsideration for UNESCOWorld Heritage nomination.There are several mosquesthroughout the island, but thestately, golden-domed HukuruMiskiy is by far the most impressive.Inside, coral walls areengraved with Arabic writingsand motifs.The nearby National Museumprovides an introductionto Maldivian history, encompassingthe Buddhist era, theconversion to Islam in the 12thcentury, the years as a Britishprotectorate from 1887 to 1965and the recent period of modernisation.The trove of artefactsincludes stone sculptures, royalfurniture from the sultanates,exquisite editions of the Qur’anand the country’s first computerfrom the 1980s - a large bulkybox that stands about five feethigh. There’s also a massiveskeleton of a rare Longsman’sBeaked Whale, discoveredstranded on a beach in 2000.My lunchtime port of call isThe Hive, a restaurant locatedon the 10th floor of theNalahiya Hotel. Though newlyconstructed high rises threatenthe restaurant’s vista, it’s stillone of the best places to lookout at Malé. While waiting formy grilled prawns in garlic andbutter—which turn out to betender and flavourful—I headoutside to the balcony for the360-degree panorama, relishingthe sight of water in all directions.The city’s radiant coloursand compactness are all themore apparent from this bird’seye view.Reflected by the relativelyhigh cost of dining, the vastmajority of food in Maldives isimported. Fish is the main exception.Due to the abundanceof the surrounding waters,seafood - predominantly tuna -comes in by the boatload eachday, and the fish market is oneof the island’s most lively spots.It’s a scene that is not for thesqueamish, as sellers hack andgut fish in front of customers forultimate freshness.The commercial harbour onthe northwestern side of theisland is a popular place topromenade, and as dusk arrivesin Malé, my friends and I buycoconuts from a simple roadsidestall and sit on folding chairsnext to the water. The settingsun creates a melange of boldhues, painting the sky likewatercolours.This setting feels like an idyll,but I learn that it could all becomea paradise lost. Malé mayone day become submergedlike the lost city of Atlantis. Asthe lowest lying country in theworld with most islands under1.5 metres above sea level,Maldives faces the possibility ofbeing engulfed by the ocean - aMalé, Maldivesfear that was enhanced by the2004 tsunami, which destroyedsix islands and left more than80 dead. The Government hasestablished a fund to purchaseland in India, Sri Lanka or Australiafor Maldivians to relocateto in case their present countryvanishes.Whether or not the threat is asdire as some believe, it’s all themore reason to visit Maldivesfor more than lazy days besidethe shore. Vibrant and distinctive,Malé Island is a destinationworth visiting.How To Get There: Flights to Ibrahim Nasir InternationalAirport from Southeast Asia transit via Colombo, KualaLumpur and Singapore. Prices generally range upwardsfrom US$600 roundtrip.When To Go: Temperatures on the Maldives average around30°C, consistent throughout the year. Monsoon season isbetween May and November, with peak tourist seasonbetween December and January.Travel Tips: Hotels in Malé often fill in advance, withrates starting upwards from US$100 per night. The officiallanguage is Dihevi, although English is widely spoken.asialife HCMC 41

Nuoc MamThis is one ingredient that isquintessentially Vietnamese.It is different from fish saucesmade in other countries, andlends a distinct character toVietnamese cooking. It is sodistinctive that you wouldbe able to tell the differenceblindfolded between this anda Thai or Lao version. The simplestway to describe it is asthe liquid drained from salted,fermented fish. It is very oftenused as a dipping sauce, andtakes the place of salt on awestern table. It can be mixedwith garlic, chilli, sugar,vinegar and fresh lime to makethe dipping sauce, nuoc cham.Every cook varies the ingredientsa little, depending onwhat is to hand, or on taste toachieve a good blend.All along the length ofVietnam’s coastline and in thedeltas people brew nuoc mam.Different combinations of fishand a few secret ingredientscan add or change colour andflavour, and the result is manydifferent local blends. Butwherever and whatever, theprocess is the same. The fish,usually small anchovy types,are alternately layered withsalt. Nuoc mam breweries oftenproduce their own sea salt byboiling seawater over a ricehusk fire, and scooping off thesalt as it crystallizes on thesurface. The salted fish are leftin huge wooden vats for up tothree months, then the liquidis drained through a tap at thebase and poured back into thebarrels and left for anotherthree months. It is drained offagain, strained, and is thenready for sale, or it can be agedfurther. The flavour improvesover the years, making agednuoc mam like fine wine to aconnoisseur. You can visit nuocmam breweries in the MekongDelta and see it being made.Although you might find itto be equivalent to watchingsausage or law being made, sobe warned.During the American/VietnameseWar several Vietnameseexpats living in Franceimported large quantities ofsuperior nuoc mam and put itinto storage for aging. It is nowsaid to be at its peak. MostVietnamese will never travelto France, but governmentofficials or business people on"The flavourimproves overthe years, makingaged nuoc mamlike fine wine to aconnoisseur."trips are said to seek out theaged nuoc mam with the fervourof French wine masters. Ipersonally use nuoc mam in mykitchen with almost everything.Don't tell any Spaniards,but I use it in paella. Anddon't, don't tell Italians, but Iput it in spaghetti sauce. Andkeep it a deep dark secret fromany Americans that I add it tomeat loaf.Phu Quoc Island, off thesouthernmost coast, is thoughtby many people to producethe best nuoc mam, praisedfor its clarity and flavour. Aswith olive oil, the best gradeis from the first draining. It isusually very dark in colour,very viscous and heady, withthe label marked “nhi” or“thuong hang”, indicating itshigh quality. Cheaper gradesare made after the first gradehas been drained off. Freshwater is added to the mashand, after pressing, a clearer,lighter product can be drainedoff. This nuoc mam is used incooking.Nuoc mam neophytes oftenfind it repellent when raw, butcooked with other ingredientsit highlights their flavourswhile losing most of its own.Hotels and restaurants oftenassume that foreigners will notlike nuoc mam, so serve themsoy sauce instead. Unless youare a strict vegetarian, do notallow this to happen. Insiston the real thing. You will nothave been to Vietnam otherwise.Nuoc Cham Dipping SauceNo Vietnamese table is completewithout a dish of nuoccham for dipping and drizzling.It is as ubiquitous as rice.1–2 cloves garlic1 red chilli, stem and seedsremoved2 teaspoons sugar1/4 fresh lime2 1/2 tablespoons water2 tablespoons fish sauceWith a mortar and pestle,pound the garlic, chilli andsugar into a paste. Squeeze inthe lime juice. With a paringknife, remove the pulp fromthe lime and pound it intothe paste. Add water and fishsauce and mix well.Makes 1 cup (250ml)42 asialife HCMC

Le Bouchon De SaigonThisGallic restaurant at the corner of Thai VanLung and Ly Tu Trong is well on its way to becomingone of Saigon’s finest. Photos by Alex Belikov.My steadfast Francophiliaaside, I was champing at thebit to try Le Bouchon de Saigonsince I’d heard nothing butpraise for the newly openedeatery. With experienced Alexisand Jenny Melgrani at thehelm—and former Evason AnaMandara and Six Senses, NhaTrang head chef David Thai onboard, too—Le Bouchon boastsa stunning collection of authenticFrench dishes with fresh,organic ingredients.The menu, titled La Gazettedu Bouchon de Saigon, includestongue-in-cheek daily quotesand a black and white caricatureof chef Alexis that guestsare invited to ‘be creative with’.We whet our palates withthe homemade foie gras terrine(270,000 VND). The melt-inyourmouth dish—Chef Alexis’secret recipe—is served on largepieces of baguette with a simpleside of greens.Next up is the fresh andsmoked salmon tartare (160,000VND). The succulent salmonsits in a pool of cream sauceinfused with shallots and lime.Not wanting to waste a drop ofthe superb sauce, we use somefresh baguette to mop up theexcess.We are then served the roastedjumbo tomato with warmgoat cheese, crowned with adelicately rolled piece of Parmaham (170,000 VND). We alsosample the fabulous pan-searedsea bass, cherry tomato risottoand basil bisque sauce (220,000VND), a recipe, Alexis says, thatpays homage to his mother.The chicken fricassee withmushroom risotto (360,000VND) is my hands-downfavourite. This slow-cookeddish, featuring tender chickenand juicy, flavourful forestmushrooms, is topped with atasty Parmesan biscuit. We endon a pretty spectacular notewith the luscious chocolatemousse sprinkled with toastedalmonds.Le Bouchon’s Gallic influencecan be observed throughout thebuzzing bistro: red and whitechecked tablecloths hang overeach table and turn of the centuryFrench posters adorn thewalls. Staff are warm and attentivedespite having to juggleplates as they whiz around thepacked room. A word of warningto those who are contemplatingpopping in: be sure toreserve a table beforehand.Thanks to its upbeat musicand animated crowd, you mightwant to hang around for a fewmore drinks after your meal.But the restaurant will not letyou forget its slogan, whichis even emblazoned on thewindows: “What happens in LeBouchon stays in Saigon…”40 Thai Van Lung, District 1Tel: 3829 9263Open Monday through Thursdayfrom 11am until 10pm and Fridaysand Saturdays from 11am until11pm with a break between 2.30and 5.30 pm.asialife HCMC 43

BerruA family-run Turkish joint with rock-bottom prices andhome cooked food. Photos by Fred Wissink.New Turkish restaurant Berruis slightly out of the way on thelong expanse of Tran Nao Streeton the southern side of thehighway in District 2. However,it is still a short hop from ThaoDien and with the opening ofthe Thu Thiem Tunnel linkingDistrict 2 to downtown Saigon,it is well placed to take advantageof the increased passingtraffic.It is truly a family operationwith the sons working the floorand mum in the kitchen whippingup traditional Turkish fare,while dad comes in the eveningto take charge of the donerrotisseries. The restaurant sits ina pleasant courtyard with waterfeatures along one wall providinga soothing soundtrack.Berru gets underway earlyand has some interesting optionsto start the day includingthe Turkish breakfast (75,000VND) of tomatoes, cheese,olives and bread. This can bewashed down with the wickedlyrich Turkish coffee (25,000VND large/15,000 VND small).We start with a plate of menemen(40,000 VND), diced tomatoes,onions and green peppersmixed with a couple of eggs. Itis delicious sopped up with flatbread and is outrageously goodvalue considering the size ofthe plate.Next up is a shish kebab(150,000 VND) with perfectlyseasoned cubes of beef. Achicken version is also availablefor 120,000 VND. I’m hankeringfor an old-school doner orchicken kebab (150,000 VND aplate/80,000 VND on bread),but as these are only availableafter 6pm I will have to make areturn trip.Instead we try the roastedgreen pepper (50,000 VND),which is filled with rice, onions,tomatoes and spices. Alongwith this arrives a plate ofvine-leaf wrapped dolmadesaccompanied by fresh yoghurtfor dipping. At only 50,000VND for 10 pieces, it is certainlya bargain.To finish, we try somethinglighter in the form of the Russiansalad and patlican ezme, atraditional Turkish salad madefrom eggplant. Both are excellentbut it is the latter that isreally a standout. In texture it islike a lighter baba ganoush, thepureed eggplant and yoghurtis redolent with garlic and reallybrightened with a touch oflemon juice.There is a lovely familyatmosphere at Berru, the serviceis prompt and friendly and ofcourse the food is what youwould expect from a greatTurkish home cook. And giventhe rock-bottom prices, it isdefinitely worth seeking out.264 Tran Nao, District 2Ph: 093 246 77988am to 10.30pm seven days.44 asialife HCMC

Baan ThaiAnew authentic Thai restaurant adds some heatto District 2. Photos by Fred Wissink.For such a popular cuisine theworld over there are surprisinglyfew Thai restaurantsaround Saigon. There seemsto be something of an upturnhappening, however, witha number of Thai establishmentsopening their doors inthe last few months. One ofthese recent additions is BaanThai on the Thao Dien strip inDistrict 2.Inside is sleekly modernand divided into a bar areaand restaurant seating. Thebar has a sports bar feel with aflat-screen television, dartboardand a long bar fronted withstools. Over in the restaurantarea four booths line one walland there is a scattering ofother tables inside and a fewmore outside if you want todine al fresco.The menu is extensive andthe first impression you get isthat this is definitely no ersatzThai establishment, but ratherthe real deal. Starting withsalads, there are a few personalfavourites. If you love Thai foodit is difficult to not have a softspot for green papaya salad(59,000 VND) with its combinationof tangy sour fruit, stickysweet fish sauce and stingingchilli heat. There is an impressiveBangkok-style beef salad,also for 59,000 VND.The menu contains a goodselection of tom yum soups includingtom yum kung (prawns)for 99,000 VND. Heading intomore substantial fare, there ispad ka pao, or stir-fried basilleaves, with either prawns orpork (79,000/69,000 VND).Curries are an essential partof Thai cuisine and there arered and green curries as well asmassaman curry with beef, porkor chicken for 99,000 VND. Igo for a green vegetarian curry(89,000 VND) that is flavourfuland full of crisp vegetables andlarge chunks of tofu. The curriesare available in mild, medium orhot and given the curry I triedwas on the lower end of the heatscale and still had some punch,the hot variety should only beattempted by chilli aficionados.The next course is a classicpad thai kung sod (79,000VND). The plate is heaped withnoodles and topped with agenerous amount of prawns andcrushed peanuts. A taste of thisdish cannot help but transportyou back to lazy days spent onThailand’s beautiful islands andbeaches.So, if you are missing the landof smiles and need to get yourfix, at least of the food, thenBaan Thai might be the place foryou.55 Tao Dien, An Phu, D2Ph: 08 3744 5453Breakfast from 8.30am daily,Sunday to Thursday 11am to 11pm,Friday to Saturday 11am to 12am(kitchen closes at 9.45pm)asialife HCMC 45

46 asialife HCMCThis Italian-inspired bespoke lifestyle boutique is the ultimate destination for themodern urban man. By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Massimo Ferrari, abespoke clothing andlifestyle boutiquetargeting cosmopolitan men,is one seriously well-thoughtout business. According toLuis Antonio Torres, the brainsbehind the operation, “We offereverything. It’s a full-stop shopfor a man. It’s full lifestyle, allin the Italian aesthetic.”The store’s striking all-whiteinterior is designed to mimican Italian man’s apartment,putting customers at ease withcomfortable furniture and anopen bar while setting thestage for the Italian-centricproducts.The store’s name was alsocrafted with a purpose. Massimois the modern version ofMaximillian, Italian for ‘TheGreatest’ and he says peopleunderstand Ferrari. “It’s theItalian pinnacle.”Even Massimo Ferrari’s location,in a quiet area of District3 at 42A1 Tran Quoc Thao,was selected for a reason. AsAntonio explains, “The factof the matter is that we are adestination. People come to us,and they seek us out.”What they are seeking arethe two clothing lines createdby Torres: the flagship MassimoFerrari; and the more recentlyunveiled District 3.“District 3 is for the youngman. It’s more like streetwear,again with an Italian aesthetic,so it’s going to be more fun andfunky, more sartorial in terms ofdetail.”Massimo Ferrari, on the otherhand, is the ‘aspirational’ brand.“So the young guy who comesin and says, ‘Well, now I’ve gotmore money, what’s next forme?’ It’s Massimo Ferrari. Andfor the guy who’s already there,he’s getting custom clothing,”says Torres.It is this customisation thatmakes Massimo Ferrari sounique in a city where, to beperfectly frank, finding goodqualitymen’s clothing that fitswestern builds is a challenge,and in an increasingly modernmetropolis there is a need formale-centric fashion stores. AsAntonio relates, “The reason Iopened this store is that, sometimesyou want to go find a nicepair of jeans or something, andI couldn’t do that here. Therewas such a void, and there is ademand.”Torres cultivates long-termrelationships with his clientelethrough dedicated personal service.Precise measurements andpreferences are recorded, andthe boutique’s vast catalogueof fabric styles and types, all ofwhich are imported, allow discerningmen to choose exactlywhat look they prefer. Bespoketrousers, shirts, and jackets areall offered, and Torres designsevery outfit himself.This deep attention to detailhas attracted a following. “Ihave a very loyal expat clientbase. Which is good, because it’scredibility, and they can speakto me about what they want. It’snot like going through some lostin translation thing.”Massimo Ferrari is makingwaves among natives as well.“We are hellbent on the localmarket,” Torres explains. “Theexpat market moves, so it’s notvery good business sense to justrely on them. We are definitelygearing to locals. Now, with thelaunch of District 3, we’ve beenseeing a whole new, young demographic,which is great. Celebrities,models, stars, all of that.”With plans to expand first toHanoi and then to other partsof Asia, Massimo Ferrari iscarving out a unique position inthe region. Antonio states that,“I go to Bangkok, Singapore,and Kuala Lumpur, and I seekthe men’s stores out, but therearen’t many. Boutique stuff thatis interesting and catered to menis what we want to do.”Perhaps the definitive testamentthat Massimo Ferrari ischanging the men’s fashiongame here comes from Antonio’sItalian customers. Torressays, “I always take it as a complimentwhen they come hereand say, ‘Whoa, this is fantastic.I didn’t even know this existed.’So we sit down, and it’s great,since they yearn to come backto this. They’ve been away fromItaly for a long time, and theylove it.”asialife HCMC 47

ConnoisseurIT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGSCaviarAustrian writer and gastronomeLudwig Bemelmans once said,“Caviar is to dining what a sablecoat is to a girl in an eveningdress.” Basically, caviar is apretty big deal. And yet thereoften remains confusion as towhat constitutes this indulgentgarnish. Derived from thePersian word khaviar, caviar isessentially processed, salted,non-fertilised sturgeon roe—orto put it bluntly the egg massesfound in a fish’s ovaries.Caviar was not always ascoveted as it is today. In theearly 1900s, the US and Canadaharvested caviar from NorthAmerican sturgeon breeds,including the now endangeredShortnose sturgeon. At onepoint, New York’s Waldorf Astoriahotel offered free-flowingcaviar as an amuse-bouche, andthe salty treat was even servedin saloons to encourage thirstydrinkers. Since then, overfishingand pollution have wreakedhavoc on the North Americansturgeon population. Extractingroe from whitefish, salmon andcarp is now considered a lessenvironmentally damaging andmuch cheaper alternative. Similarly,in parts of Asia caplin roeis very affordable and a stapleon sushi. Salmon roe is calledikura in Japan, a derivative ofthe Russian word for caviar, ikra.Purists, however, believetrue caviar is only that whichis sourced from the roe of wildsturgeon living in the CaspianSea. The rarest variety foundthere, Beluga caviar, rangesin colour from silver-grey toblack and is prized for its peasizeeggs and creamy, delicateflavour. Next up is the goldenSterlet caviar, once reserved forRussian czars, Iranian shahs andAustrian emperors. Anotherhigh-quality type is the greyishbrown,nutty Ossetra, followedby the small, grey Sevrugacaviar.But the days are also numberedfor Caspian Sea sturgeon.Bans on wild fish harvestinghave become more widespread,increasing caviar’s cost—andits demand among those withmoney to burn. Caviar canreach prices of between US$8,000 and $16,000 per kilo. Iranis presently the world’s largestproducer and exporter of caviar,followed by Russia. AmbitiousVietnam is trying to keep up,though: in late 2011, the VietnamSturgeon Corporation setup a Russian sturgeon-breedingfarm in Dak Lak province.Environmentally consciousgourmands will be pleasedto know that, in Spain, a fishfarm called Caviar de Riofrioproduces organic caviar.Being extremely perishable,caviar must be kept refrigerateduntil consumption. Properetiquette entails serving froma non-metal spoon (tortoiseshell or mother-of-pearl arebest), since metal imparts ametallic flavour to the fragilespread. Opt for vodka, very dryChampagne, sparkling wine orwhite wine to complement thisdelicate snack. Also note thatwhen served caviar as an horsd’oeuvre it’s considered poorform to eat more than an ampleserving of two spoonfuls—nomatter how tempted or tipsyyou might be.A rich source of VitaminsA and D, Vitamin B-12 andOmega-3 fatty acids, caviarhas been touted for its healthbenefits. Others revere it for itsreputation as an aphrodisiac—perhaps because fish and theirby-products are linked to Aphrodite,Goddess of Love. A moreviable explanation is that Arginine,a vascular dilator foundin caviar, helps increase bloodflow. Whatever the case maybe, it is quite telling that whenCatherine the Great was advisedto provide an heir to thethrone she commanded, “Bringme some caviar, and tonight atsupper, send me the best built ofmy officers.”48 asialife HCMC

GirlDiesel dress: 990,000 VNDHeatwave shoes: 882,000 VNDBoyDiesel shirt: 2,653,000 VNDDiesel jeans: 4,990,000 VNDPhotographer: Guy GonyeaConcept: Hanh EdbrookeStylist: Bobo & Hung LeModel: Hanh Trinh & Jake HouseagoIllustration: Nguyen Mai AnhDistrict Three brand of Massimo Ferrari 42a Tran Quoc Thao, D3Heatwave Crescent Mall Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7Diesel Zen plaza 54-56 Nguyen Trai D1asialife HCMC 49

GirlDiesel pink top: 1,490,000 VNDDiesel skinny jeans: 7,990.000 VNDDiesel boots: 10,790,000 VNDBoyDiesel jacket: 7,490,000 VNDDiesel t-shirt: 990,000 VNDDiesel jeans: 6,990,000 VNDDistrict Three Ringo navy blue shoes3,465,000 VND50 asialife HCMC

GirlDiesel black dress: 6,573,000 VNDHeatwave shoes: 933,000 VNDBoyDiesel white t-shirt: 2,990,000 VNDDiesel trousers: 6,990,000 VNDDistrict Three Carlo black shoes:3,465,000 VNDasialife HCMC 51

Take a break from work and enjoy our lunch menu.Blanch’s Tash Executive Chef, Martin Brito, has prepared a special lunch menu torelieve the stress of work. A glass of wine may help with accelerating this treatment.Cocktail Bar • Restaurant • Terrace @95 Hai Ba Trung@blanchysTash

FOR MORE AUTHENTICITALIAN CUISINE YOU WILLNEED TO USE YOUR PASSPORTAt the well-known Basilico, Italian dining takes on a whole new perspective. We use only the finestingredients, meticulous preparation and our unique InterContinental insider knowledge to create a range oftraditional dishes. The brand new five course set dinner, exclusively chosen by our Italian Executive ChefRolando Manesco, with premium quality Australian steaks will please the most discerning Italian connoisseur.Set dinner menu priced from 888.000VND per person and irresistible Australian beef delicacies priced from480.000VND per portion.6.00 pm – 10.00 pm, from now till end of March 2012Basilico – Ground Floor of InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences*Prices are subject to VAT and service chargeFor more information or to makea reservation, please call (84 8) 3520 9099or email: dine@icasianasaigon.comIn over 170 locations across the globe including HONG KONG . LONDON . NEW YORK . PARIS

listingshotel &travelAIRLINESAir Asia254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810www.airasia.comAsia’s largest low-cost airline operatesone daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights toBangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and KualaLumpur.Air France130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981ext. 82Fax: 3822 0537www.airfrance.com.vnAn airline with a vast and effective globalnetwork. Now flies direct to Paris.Cathay Pacific72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3Tel: 3822 3203www.cathaypacific.comHong Kong-based airline makes threeflights daily to HCM City and two flightsdaily to Hong Kong’s internationalairport. Fares start at about $300.Malaysia AirlinesUnit G8 Ground floor, SG TradeCenter 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel:3824 6663www.malaysiaairlines.comOffers daily flights from Hanoi and HCMCity to Kuala Lumpur for about $200round trip, with four economy class farelevels: low, basic, smart and flex.Turkish Airlines8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1Tel: 3936 0360www.turkishairlines.comAwarded as the Best Airline in Europeoffers the brand new Comfort Class to Economy class: 46inch leg room, personalisedentertainment screen and globallyawarded cuisine on-board.Vietnam AirlinesHanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan KiemTel: 6270 0200HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115Nguyen Hue, D1Tel: 3832 0320www.vietnamairlines.com.vnThe domestic route map is extensive,with several flights daily between majorand less touristed cities throughoutVietnam. Flies internationally throughoutAsia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow,Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and SanFrancisco.CON DAOSix Senses Con DaoDat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba RiaTel: 064 3831 222www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDaoThe first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretchacross a mile-long beach, each villas hasits own infinity-edge pool facing the oceanand a stunning restaurant.DALATAna Mandara Villas Resort & SpaLe Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888www.anamandara-resort.comLuxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17restored early 20th-century villas and65 rooms set in the rural highlands. LaCochinchine Spa offers wide range oftreatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurantserves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.Heated swimming pool, art gallery andcooking classes in organic garden.activitiesDalat Easy Rider Tours70 Phan Dinh Phungdalateasyriders@yahoo.comwww.dalat-easyrider.comRide pillion with English-, French- orGerman-speaking tour guides onmotorbike adventures that start in Dalatand snake through mountains, junglesand deltas, lasting anywhere from threeto 21 days.HANOIIntercontinental Westlake Hanoi1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888www.intercontinental.comLocated on the waterfront with contemporaryVietnamese design, restaurants,business services, fitness centre includingexercise classes and pool.Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi83A Ly Thuong KietTel: 3822 2800www.moevenpick-hotels.comConveniently located in the heart ofHanoi’s business district, a 40-minutedrive from Noi Bai International Airportand only 5 minutes from the city centre,Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latestfive-star hotel in town, tailored to meetthe needs of discerning guests andespecially corporate travellers.Sheraton Hotel HanoiK5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay HoTel: 04 3719 9000www.starwoodhotels.com“Resort within a city” boasts 299spacious guest rooms with panoramicviews, fitness centre, internationalrestaurant and Hemisphere Vietnameserestaurant.Sofitel Metropole15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan KiemTel: 04 3826 6919www.sofitel.comLocated downtown. Colonial-style hotelwith well-regarded restaurants/bars servingFrench & Vietnamese cuisine, plusItalian steak house.HO CHI MINH CITYCaravelle Hotel19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel:3823 4999www.caravellehotel.comOne of the city’s most prestigiousvenues. Features a casino, ReflectionsRestaurant and al fresco 9th-floorSaigon Saigon Bar.Equatorial242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777www.equatorial.com/hcmOn the intersect of 4 districts, with 333rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurantand bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-upbar), gym.InterContinental Asiana SaigonCorner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1Tel: 3520 9999saigon@interconti.comwww.intercontinental.com/saigon305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceilingwindows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities, spa/health club andlounge with panoramic view.Mövenpick Hotel Saigon253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanTel: 3844 9222www.moevenpick-saigon.comHas 278 well-appointed rooms/suites,five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquetfacilities and a shopping arcade as wellas a popular e-gaming centre.Park Hyatt2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234www.saigon.park.hyatt.comLuxury colonial-style hotel includes 21escape take flight with travel promotions around the regionCaravelle Room DealUntil 30 June, enjoy a free daily buffetbreakfast, one-way airport pick up, andunlimited use of internet in your room fora minimum three nights’ stay. Stay in aDeluxe room for 4,240,000 VND++ (for asingle) or 4,670,000 VND++ (for a double).The offer cannot be used with any otherpromotions and requires a full, non-refundableprepayment at time of booking withno cancellation or amendment. Rooms aresubject to availability and rates are subjectto 5 percent service charge and 10 percentVAT. For bookings, email rsvn@caravellehotel.vnn.vn.Residential Package atIntercontinental Asiana SaigonThe InterContinental Asiana Saigon is offeringan exclusive Residential Package formeeting delegates. Designed for companiesthat need a place for employees to stay, thispackage requires a minimum of 10 roomsper night and starts at US$199 per personper room per night (from now until 30 April)and from $149 per person per room pernight (from 1 May until 30 September. Thepackage includes: stay in a Deluxe room,full- or half-day meeting package, and inroomInternet. This package is subject toavailability and to VAT and service charge.For more information or to make a reservation,call +84-8-3520999, extension 4209or email bdm@icasianasaigon.com.Women’s Day at Ho TramBeach Resort & SpaTo celebrate International Women’s Day,Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa near VungTau is offering a romance package for 8March. Priced at 7,894,500 VND for twopeople, the package includes two nights ina garden view room or bungalow, a privatedinner with two glasses of wine, a drinkvoucher for two, a 60-minute body wrap,and 30 minutes in the spa. Visit hotramresort.comfor more information.Pilgrimage Village, Hue.The Pilgrimage Village in Hue has a specialoffer for Vietnamese and expatriates until30 April. Get a Villa Deluxe for US$90 anight, a Villa Family Deluxe for US$190 anight, Honeymoon Bungalow for US$150 anight, a Honeymoon Pool Hut for US$200a night, or a traditional Vietnamese PoolHouse for US$ 350 a night. The ratesinclude breakfast, service charge and taxand can only be used for a maximum oftwo adults and one child under 12 yearsold without extra bed. ID or resident cardis required upon check-in. Other terms andconditions will apply. Contact: reservation@pilgrimagevillage.com for details.Enjoy free nights at theMovenpick Hotel SaigonStay three consecutive nights at MovenpickHotel Saigon and enjoy the third nightfree. Enjoy surprising dining experiencesand an inspiring destination. This exclusiveoffer provides you with additional time tofulfill your travel experience. For reservationsor further inquiry, call +84 8 838449222.54 asialife HCMC

suites, lobby lounge with live music,Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international diningat Square One.Windsor Plaza18 An Duong Vuong, D5Tel: 3833 6688services@windsorplazahotel.comwww.windsorplazahotel.comLocated in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants,modern discotheque, conferencecentre, shopping centre, supermarket.activitiesVietnam Vespa Adventures169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu LaoTel: 3920 3897www.vietnamvespaadventures.comHeadquaters located in Cafe Zoom.Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days toNha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC onclassic Vespas.HOI AN & DANANGVictoria Hoi An Beach Resort & SpaCua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040www.victoriahotels-asia.comSet on its own stretch of beach with105 rooms spread through a traditionalfishing village design of small “streets”and ponds.HUEPilgrimage VillageResort & Spa130 Minh MangTel: 054 3885 461www.pilgrimagevillage.comBoutique resort with hut, bungalowand villa accommodation draws onnatural environment and local culture.Features Vedana spa, two restaurantsserving Vietnamese & Western foodand imported wines and three bar/lounges.Vedana Lagoon Resort& Spa112 Minh Mang Tel: 0543830 240www.vedanaresorts.comNestled on the shore of a peaceful andserene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort& spa is ideally situated between thetwo cities well-known as world heritagesites: hue and hoi an. The resortdesigned with a stylist harmony betweenthe local traditional culture anda modern art concept with 27 villas,bungalows and 2 houseboats.NHA TRANGEvason Hideaway at Ana MandaraNinh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh HoaTel: 058 3728 222www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandaraAn island hideaway accessible only byboat, 58 private pool villas, internationaland local restaurants, weddingservices, water sports and scubadiving.Evason Ana Mandara Nha TrangBeachside, Tran Phu, Nha TrangTel: 058 3522 222www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandaraBeachside resort set in 26,000 squaremetres of tropical garden, with 74guest villas, three restaurants, SixSenses Spa.Mia Resort Nha TrangBai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,Cam Lam, Khanh HoaTel: 58 398 9666www.mianhatrang.comUltimate luxury resort with 50 roomsdivided into villas and condos, cateringby wel-known restaurant Sandals andMojito's bar.PHAN THIETAnatara Beach ResortMui Ne Beach, KM10, HamTien WardTel: 062 3741 888www.anatara.comBeachfront resort with 90 fully equippedrooms, business centre, spa, fitnesscentre and outdoor pool.Princess D’AnnamResort and SpaKhu Hon Lan, TanThanh, Ham Thuan Nam,Binh ThuanTel: 062 3682 222www.princessannam.comLocated on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusivevillas, eight swimming pools, two restaurantsand 1,800 square metres spacomplex.The Sailing Club24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne,Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440www.sailingclubvietnam.comOpen bar overlooking the sea, spaciousrooms, restaurant, swimming pool andday spa.Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and SpaMui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000www.victoriahotels-asia.comLocated on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows,natural spa experiences amongother great activities on offer at the resortSAPAVictoria Sapa ResortSapa District, Lao Cai ProvinceTel: 020 0871 522www.victoriahotels-asia.comMountain chalet perched over the villagewth cosy but modern guestrooms overlookingthe lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurantoverlooks Mount Fansipan andTa Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.Connection from Hanoi by private train.SCUBA DIVINGNote: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centresrecognized by international dive trainingprograms, such as the ProfessionalAssociation of Dive Instructors (PADI)and Scuba Schools International (SSI).We strongly advise against diving withunaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.Rainbow Divers55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2Tel: 3744 6825www.divevietnam.comDiving tours and career/instructor developmentoffered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre.established in the mid-90s. Operates divecentres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi Anand Phu Quoc.VUNG TAUHo Tram Beach Resort & SpaHo Tram Village, Xuyen MocTel: 06 4378 1525www.hotramresort.comLocated about 45km from Vung Tau inthe Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho TramBeach Resort & Spa boasts uniquelydesigned bungalows and villas.TRAVEL AGENTSBuffalo Tours AgencyHCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1Tel: 3827 9170Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem DistrictTel: 04 3828 0702www.buffalotours.com.vnExotissimoHCMCinfosgn@exotissimo.compmh@exotissimo.comHANOI: infohanoi@exotissimo.comwww.exotissimo.comasialife HCMC 55

listingsfood &drinkBAR RESTAURANTSBuddha Bar7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080An Phu institution serves up tasty mealsand good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment.Plenty of room to relax inside orout, plus a pool table on premise. Cafe Latin17 Dong Du, D1In its third location, this expat favouritecontinues to deliver good food, anextensive drink list and a comfortableatmosphere.Corso Steakhouse & BarNorfolk Hotel, 117 LeThanh Ton, D1Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel CorsoSteakhouse & Bar is well known for itssteak imported from the US and Australia.Good destination for both lunchand dinner.Mogambos50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311This restaurant has been around sincethe mid-1990s, which offers an insightinto its enduring quality. Specializes inAmerican grain-fed steaks, hamburgersand salads Phatty’s46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1Tel: 3821 0705www.phattysbar.comJaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’ssports bar has five widescreen TVs, a largedrop-down screen and lots of pub gruband beer for fans looking to take in a gameor two.Sheridan's Irish House17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793www.sheridansbarvn.comCosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor,a pleasant atmosphere and regular livemusic. Wide range of classic pub grub,East Asian dishes.ZanZBar41 Dong Du, D1Funky, modern interiors and variedinternational breakfast, lunch and dinnercuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmetespresso coffee, and happy hours makeZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.CAFESCay Da CafeGround floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanTel: 3844 9222 ext. 118www.moevenpick-saigon.comStocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s mostdelicious cakes, pastries, ice cream andsandwiches.Mojo88 Dong Khoi, D1www.sheratonsaigon.comA top-end cafe with an attractive interior,outdoor terrace at street level and comfortablelounges upstairs. Good businesscoffee or lunch venue.That’s CaféRivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2feast broaden your palate with promotions around townWomen’s Day Buffet atCaravelle HotelOn 8 March, the Caravelle celebratesWomen’s Day at Nineteen Restaurant witha special rendition of its popular dinnerbuffet featuring local and internationalspecialties. The menu will include an extensivespread of entrees, salads, seafoodand cheeses and endless servings ofcooked-to-order and freshly made dishes.A white chocolate fountain and cherryjubilee station will be available for desertand ladies can cap off the evening with acup of premium Lavazza coffee or Ronnefeldttea. 1,013,000 VND ++/ person.Call 38234999 or visit caravellehotel.comfor more information. Nineteen, groundfloor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square,District 1, HCM City.Pizzas Around the Worldto Dover SolesFor the month of March, Opera doesartisan pizzas, while Square One goesfor Dover Sole. The chefs take eachdelicacy and serve it in a variety of ways.For those who love seafood, the DoverSole at Square One will be cooked inboth Vietnamese and Western preparationsfor 1,200,000VND ++ per person.This month you can also satisfy your pizzacravings at Opera with it’s baked to orderpizzas straight from its authentic woodoven.From thick to thin crust, medleysof specialty pizzas include, Greek, French,Indian, and Middle Eastern interpretations.For more information visit saigon.park.hyattrestaurants.com or call 08 3824 1234.Square One and Opera or locacted in thePark Hyatt Saigon at 2 Lam Son Square,District 1, HCM City.US Beef Feast at ReflectionsRestaurantThree premium cuts of world-class steakand a charcoal-heated iron grill are thestarring components of a week-long USBeef Promotion at the Caravelle Hotel from8 to 16 March. Reflections Restaurant isserving grilled US beef tenderloin, rib eyeand Black Angus beef strip loin togetherwith five accompanying sauces and eightclassic sides, such as baked potatoes withsour cream, chives and bacon bits, goldenraisin coleslaw, and creamy spinach. Pricesrange from 450,000 VND to 990,000 VNDfor 150g to 350g cuts. Steaks are cookedto order and come with a choice of twoside dishes. Reflections Restaurant, 3rdfloor, Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square,District 1, HCM City.Café Saigon celebratesWomen’s DayTreat your lady to a sumptuous seafooddinner at Café Saigon on Women’s Day, 8March from 6pm to 11pm. Every lady willreceive a gift from Bourjois Paris Cosmetic.Price: 850,000 VND++ per person, includingfree flow of house wine, beer and soft drinks.Space and gifts are limited so reserve now.Call +84 8 3844 9222 for reservations. CaféSaigon is located in the Movenpick HotelSaigon at 253 Nguyen Van Troi Street, PhuNhuan District, HCM City.A Hong Kong Delicacyin SaigonFrom 12 to 18 March, the Caravelle’s LobbyLounge is preparing eight- and 16-piecetakeaway boxes of egg tarts. The traditionalChinese treats go for 418,000 VND/ box ofeight egg tarts and 638,000 VND/ box of16 egg tarts. Price is subject to 10 percentVAT. Lobby Lounge, ground floor, CaravelleHotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1, HCMCity.56 asialife HCMC

street gourmetLi BaiSheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1Tel: 3827 2828Imperial-styled restaurant named aftera famous Chinese poet. Excellentlunch time dim sum buffet for USD$17.00. Nightly à la carte menu withdishes going from 100,000 VND.Lotus Court1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanTel: 3844 9222 ext. 168www.moevenpick-saigon.comDim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisinein a unique and elegant setting.Ming Dynasty23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My HungTel: 5411 5555Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style;offers 100 dim sum varieties and300 dishes prepared by a chef fromHong Kong. The restaurant’s ImperialBuffet costs USD $39 per person andincludes free flow of wine.Xoi chienXoi chien is a rice cake filledwith mushrooms, cassava,minced pork, salt, sugar,pepper and onion. It’s usuallyfried in oil and thenwhen it’s nearly cookedcoconut milk is added tomake it mild and sweet. AThe Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, PhuMy Hung, D7Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café isa new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming toprovide the best coffee in town in acomfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’sa great place to hold a business meetingor catch up with friends.X Cafe58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142Bright, spacious foreign-run cafedecorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.Popular with local makers and shakers,good xoi chien is crispy witha sweet and soft inside. Xoichien is a perfect on-the-gofood and can be heatedup at home later for a nicesnack. Expect to pay between3,000 VND to 4,000VND for one. Khoa Nguyenhas a great open-plan upstairs area andtwo outdoor terraces. Regular live musicand homemade ice cream.CHINESEKabinRenaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 TonDuc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033Elegant dining space with beautiful decorand great views over the river offersextensive lunch and dinner menus featuringauthentic gourmet Cantonese andSzechuan dishes and an assortment ofdim sum at lunchtime.Braised fresh bean skin, ginkgoand black mushroom168.000++/portionPan-fried bean curd roll stuffedwith roast duck168.000++/portionPoached beancurd stuffedwith minced pork in fish broth188.000++/portionBraised pig’s tailand yellow beans188.000++/portionSauteùed preserved intestinesand bean sprouts188.000++/portionSweetened bean curd custard38.000++/portion++ Prices are in VND and subject to applicable VAT and service charge.Windsor VIPCard holders enjoy 10% discount.Promotion available for dine-in only.Not applicable for take-away. Terms and conditions apply.Ngan Dinh Restaurant5th Fl., Windsor Plaza Hotel18 An Duong Vuong St., Dist.5, HCMCTel: (84.8) 3.830.8888Chef’s Daily Market ChoiceThe Beanasialife HCMC 57

imbibestreet gourmetAssessing Wine Step 2:The Nose and PalateBy Darryl BetheaEnjoying the DiscoveryProcessTry this experiment: pinch yournose shut, close your eyesand have someone give youa flavoured hard candy. Nowguess the flavour. Having trouble?Who knew how importantyour nose is to your tastebuds? I didn’t until I started tostudy wine, however the moreyou develop your ability todistinguish different smells andidentify them, the more youwill add to your enjoyment.Here is a guide:Give the wine a good swirlin the glass. The action mixesthe wine with air to releasethe aromatics. Hold the glassa few inches from your nosethen take one good sniff andpause. Does the smell remindyou of different fruits like greenapples or citrus? How aboutdark red fruits, cola, or pipeor cigar tobacco? Let yourimagination and memory ofdifferent smells be your guide.Don’t try too hard. Resist thedesire to continually sniff thewine because you will dullyour sense of smell. What isyour initial reaction?If you smell very little, that isOK. Many fine wines have verylittle aromatics. Whatever yousmell, it should never be offensive.If you are in a restaurantand you are not sure, neverhesitate to ask the manager toassess the wine. If it is defectiveyou can exchange foranother. Now you are readyfor the next step – the taste.In the beginning, sip a goodmouthful; loosely mouthingthe glass with your lips. Youwant to combine your sip witha good amount of air in yourmouth. Air helps the winecome alive. Now this is important,don’t gulp it! Let thewine hit the top, back, front,and sides of the mouth; likewhat you do when you usemouthwash. Expose the wineto all your taste buds. Nowyou can swallow.Does the wine confirm yourfindings when you swirled andsniffed the wine or is it different?Is it smooth, soft andelegant or strong, rough, andburning? How does it makeyou feel? How long is the ‘finish’(how long can you tastethe wine after you swallow)?Do you like it or not?Listen, wine is supposed tobe fun. Don’t buy in to some‘expert’s’ opinion. The onlyway to learn more about wineis to taste wine. It’s aboutfinding your own favourites,pairing them with foods, andexploring again and again.Cheers!Darryl Bethea is Group SalesManager for Fine Wines of theWorld (09 3378 5005) and isa Certified Sommelier from theCourt of the Master Sommeliers.Contact Darryl at 093378 5005 or email Darryl@finewinesasia.com.Chuoi chienChuoi chien, or fried bananas,are a popular streetfood in Vietnam, especiallyduring the rainy season. Tomake it the street vendortakes a cooked banana,cuts it lengthwise and coversit with a batter madefrom rice flour, wheat flour,Ngan Dinh ChineseRestaurantWindsor Plaza Hotel,18 An Duong Vuong,D5 Tel: 3833 6688Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanginglanterns and a sparkling mineral gallerymake for a relaxing dining experienceat the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Paduck, giant grouper and steamed kingprawns. Be sure to check out monthlyspecials.Shang PalaceRestaurantNorfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1Tel: 3823 2221www.shangpalace.com.vnAn upscale Chinese restaurant with aspacious and welcoming atmosphere.The menu boasts a wide range of HongKong Cantonese cuisine, including bothdim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularlychanged by the creative chefs.Yu ChuInterContinental AsianaSaigon, corner of Hai BaTrung and Le Duan, D1Tel: 3520 9099dine@icasianasaigon.comSpecializing in authentic Cantonese andPeking cuisine. Award-winning chefprepares dishes including handmadenoodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.Wide selection of live seafood. Fiveinteractive kitchens.FRENCHAu Manoir de Khai251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394This top-end contemporary Frenchrestaurant is set in a picturesque colonialvilla with a lush courtyard and a lavishinterior. Full of private rooms and opulentlounge areas, this unique eatery is thesugar and salt before fryingit in hot oil until golden andcrispy with a soft gooeybanana inside. Chuoi chienis a nice dessert or snackat any time and should costbetween 2,000 VND to3,000 VND for one.Khoa Nguyenbrainchild of Vietnamese fashion guruHoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers updishes such as lobster consomme, panfriedduck liver, salmon medallions withMoet and escalope de foie gras.Le Bouchon de Saigon40 Thai Van Lung, D1This French diner-style restaurant has anemphasis on hearty home cooking, courteousservice and a relaxed atmosphereChefs David Thai an Alexis Melgraniare well known industry figures and thisvenue can hold its own among the city`smany French restaurantsINDIANSaigon Indian73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671Popular venue with an enormous menu.Serves both southern and northernIndian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosaand idly snacks, plus a wide range ofvegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunchmenu. Cater service is available. Tandoor74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839www.tandoorvietnam.comPart of a chain of restaurants coveringHanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features alarge selection of standard northern Indiandishes, including a good vegetarianselection. Excellent cheap set lunchesand reasonable prices all around. Willorganize catering for events. INTERNATIONALAl Fresco’s21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 842727 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 384058 asialife HCMC

www.alfrescosgroup.comTheme restaurant boasting a range ofTex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQdishes. Huge portions and tasty Australianribs coupled with a good atmosphereand helpful staff. Good lunch menu. Amigo Grill55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 0437Outstanding steaks made with Australian,U.S. and Argentine beef, servedin a cosy, family-friendly environmentwith large tables and banquette seating.Dishes like leg of lamb and seafoodare also on the menu. Open 11 am to11 pm.Au Parc23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowingfrom Moroccan and French styles andpopular during lunchtime with expats.Specializes in Middle Eastern and NorthAfrican food. The salad menu is a favourite,and a great range of lush smoothiesand juices are on offer. Blanchy's Tash93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1www.blanchystash.comA high-end bar and restaurant withoutdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu LondonChef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslikesnacks that fuse Japanese andSouth American influences. Expect greatthings here from international DJs andrenowned mixologistsBlack Cat13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055Tiny but popular District 1 restaurantserving up an excellent selection ofWestern and Vietnamese fare and anextensive range of sandwiches andburgers. Cafe SaigonGround floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanTel: 3844 9222 ext. 234www.moevenpick-saigon.comAn international buffet with unique foodconcepts that is perfect for gatheringfamily and friends.Cham Charm3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My HungTel: 5410 9999The highlight of this upscale, beautifullydecorated Asian restaurant is a specialseafood buffet that includes Portugueseoysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi,sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustineprawns, American Angus beefand much more. Errazuriz wines are alsoincluded in the buffet. Part of the KhaiSilk chain.The Deck38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632Serves upmarket takes on regionalspecialties made with fresh local andimported products. Well-designed,minimalist dining space and bar on theriver are a serious draw.The Elbow Room52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327elbowroom52@yahoo.comAmerican-style bistro offering a widerange of appetisers, soups, salads,sandwiches, mains and desserts, plusan extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.Gartenstadt34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue intown to offer German food with specialitiessuch as pork knuckle and authenticGerman sausages prepared fresh eachday. Also offers imported Germandraught beer.Hog's Breath02 Hai Trieu, D1Tel: 3915 6006The popular Australian eatery`s firstforay into Vietnam. Centrally located onthe ground floor of the Bitexc Financialtower. The legendary Prime Rib steaksare the centrpiece of the menu whichalso includes burgers, seafood and barsnacks. Jaspa’s33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926www.alfrescosgroup.comUnpretentious brasserie-style restaurantspecializes in Australian-influencedinternational fusion cuisine. Full range ofdrinks including Australian and Frenchwines and good cocktails. Hosts monthlySpam Cham networking event. Market 39InterContinental Asiana SaigonGround Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung andLe Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099dine@icasianasaigon.comSeven interactive live kitchens offeringFrench, Vietnamese and Southeast Asiancuisines, including a bakery, Frenchpatisseries, pancakes, tossed salads,grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items,noodles and pasta dishes.Mekong Merchant23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstylebrasserie has brought moderninternational cuisine to suburban An Phu.Popular for weekend brunches. Weeklyspecials and seafood flown in from PhuQuoc. OrienticaHotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong,D5Tel: 3839 7777www.equatorial.com/hcmTop-end seafood and grill restaurantboasting modern decor. Good serviceand excellent food presentation makethis a pleasant alternative to the downtownscene.LOUISIANEBREWHOUSEBeachside Nha TrangAsian & Western CuisineSwimming Pool & Private Beachwww.louisianebrewhouse.com.vnasialife HCMC 59

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024This tapas restaurant and bar serves upsuperb Spanish fare crafted from authenticimported ingredients. The exclusivelySpanish wine list is extensive and Sangriais half price during happy hour from5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.The Refinery74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside,informal indoor restaurant sectionand a bar area. Cuisine is light, modernEuropean. The menu spans a price rangeto suit most budgets.ReflectionsCaravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square,D1Tel: 3823 4999Contemporary fine dining that combinesAsian flavors with classic Mediterraneancuisine in an ambiance of understatedelegance and European style. Specialculinary events include guest chefs fromMichelin-star establishments around theworld. Private rooms are available.Skewers9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798www.skewers-restaurant.comRustic Mediterranean restaurant wheresubtle colours and exposed brickworkcombine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh,falafel, couscous and kebab. Highlyrated for its grilled meats, bread and dipcombos, soups and pastas. Square OnePark Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square,D1Tel: 3520 2359Specializing in high-end Western andVietnamese cuisine, Square One servescharcoal-grilled meats and seafood,as well as steamed and wok-cookedVietnamese fare.ITALIANBasilicoInterContinental AsianaSaigon, Ground Floor,Corner Nguyen Du andHai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099dine@icasianasaigon.comContemporary and casual trattoria-stylerestaurant specializing in authentic Italiandishes and homemade desserts. Woodfiredpizza oven and a wide selection ofItalian wines.Casa Italia86 Le Loi, D1Tel: 3824 4286www.casaitalia.com.vnServes home-styleItalian cooking includingpasta and pizza as well as a selection ofsteak and seafoodd dishes. Open daily10 am until late.Good Morning Vietnam197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894Popular authentic Italian restaurant withadditional outlets around the country.Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta anda range of Italian dishes. Good selectionof Italian wines. La Braceria11 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3824 7446www.labraceria.com.vnA Mediterranean-style grill house thatserves imported prime steaks, lamb,duck and fresh seafood as well as pastaand pizza. Great selection of old andnew world winesLa Hostaria17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080Rustic eatery specializing in top-endtraditional cuisine from various regionsin Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VNDwith daily specials on offer. Serves excellentpizza. OperaGround floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 LamSon Square, D1Tel: 3824 1234Slick, contemporary eatery with exposedbrick and glass. The space revolvesaround an island kitchen from whichchefs produce gourmet Italian fare.Internationally trained chefs work with thefreshest and finest ingredients around toproduce some superb dishes.JAPANESEIkiGround floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanTel: 3844 9222 ext. 127www.moevenpick-saigon.comA Japanese restaurant that turns thenotion of the common hotel sushi eateryon its head thanks to an affordable menuand a fun atmosphere.NishimuraMövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 NguyenVan Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimifrom a globetrotting chef with threedecades’ experience. A wide range ofcooked dishes and monthly meal promotionsare also available. Set lunches costabout USD $15.The Sushi Bar2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 80423A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurantserves over 40 varieties of sushi atreasonable prices. Sit at the sushi baror in private rooms upstairs. Open until11.30 pm, delivery available on request.Popular with expats and locals alike. KOREAN60 asialife HCMC

Hana8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart ofDistrict 1. Contemporary decor with a private,yet open feel. Broad menu includingcooked and raw fish and traditional hotpot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.Kumdo6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3Tel: 3824 3253Korean beef barbecue served in small,welcoming dining rooms with barbecuesbuilt into tables. Large selection of rawmeat specialties.SOUTHEAST ASIANBaan Thai55 Thao Dien, D2Tel: 3744 5453If you have been missing the delights ofBangkok nightlife then this restaurantand bar should be for you. The Thaichefs whip up all the traditional dishesyou know and love, while in the bar thereare a host of drinks and activities to helpwhile away an evening..Little ManilaS2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7Tel: 5410 0812Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor andindoor seating located on a quiet street.Serves a range of dishes from thePhilippines (pictured on menu for thoseunfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.VEGETARIANHoa Dang38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quietstreet that serves up nutritious dishes,including meatless versions of bun bo,pho and steamboat.Viet Chay339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3Tel: 3526 5862Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializesin fake meat dishes. The attractivedining room is suffused with naturallight. Located within the walls of VinhNghiem Pagoda.VIETNAMESEHoa Tuc74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676This comfortable high-end restaurantserves traditional Vietnamese fare witha contemporary, classy twist. Expectto find your local favourites as you’venever experienced them before.Lang Nuong Nam Bo285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam,D10Tel: 3862 2569Warehouse-sized quan well-regardedamong locals serves everything frombeef, chicken and fish to porcupine,weasel and field mouse. Great destinationfor intrepid gastronomes.Nam Phan34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636Well known at its previous cornerlocation on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phancontinues to serve modern Asian cuisineincluding asparagus and crab meatsoup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple andgrilled duck breast in orange sauce.Quan Bui8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, D1 Tel: 36022241Well executed and delicious Vietnamesefood at almost criminally affordableprices. Tucked away at the top end ofDistrict one, this place is worth seekingout for five-star food in a casual settingthat will certainly not strain the budget.nightlifeBARS & LOUNGESSee bar restaurant listings for morepopular watering holes.The LibraryInterContinental Asiana Saigon, cornerof Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1Tel: 3520 9099dine@icasianasaigon.comUnwind with a glass of wine or a cup oftea. The Library provides a welcomingatmosphere for those in search of calm,comfort and personalized service.Purple JadeInterContinental Asiana Saigon, cornerof Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel:3520 9099Chic lounge blends the stylisticinfluences of contemporary design andopium dens. Hosts live music and servesspecial drinks, including Shaoxing andMaotai rice wines and an exclusive selectionof luxury spirits.Saigon Saigon Bar9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam SonSquare, D1 Tel: 3823 4999Popular bar usually packed out withtourists and business travellers searchingfor some delicious cocktails and a greatview of the city skyline. Cuban bandWarapo plays every night except Mondayfrom 8.30 pm until late.NIGHTCLUBSFuse Bar3A Ton Duc Thang, D1A popular bar that plays primarily hiphopmusic. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts aladies night where women drink for free.Lush2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496A large and lavishly decorated bar andclub popular on weekends. Good DJsplaying the latest in beat-based musicand the city’s beautiful people add to thesights and sounds.at homeDELIVERYWilly Woo’swww.vietnammm.comSouthern American fare including skilletfried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQfoods, red beans and rice, Jalapenocorn bread, and other classic southernsides. Delivery only via vietnammm.comKITCHENTel: 0974 444 001kitchen.net.vnVisit the website and start an account tobegin ordering fresh, homemade mealsto your home. Must order a minimum ofthree dishes at a time.GROCERIESAnnam Gourmet Market16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 933241A Thao Dien, D2Tel: 3744 2630www.annam-gourmet.comBoutique grocer with wide selection offoreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, teaand spices; and household products.Wine and premium beer, full deli counter,produce, dairy-frozen and baked goodson second floor.Kim Hai Butchery41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb,veal and other meats sold at reasonableprices.asialife HCMC 61

ecipesPork Loin with coffee sauce,sautéed edamame and lotus seedsServes 4For pork400 gr pork loin cut in 2.5 cmpieces20 ml light soy sauceCornstarchSesame oil1 egg whiteFor sauce20 ml Kahlua80 ml A1 sauce50 gr tomato puree20 ml oil80 gr apple jamSaltSugar30 ml black coffee50 ml waterGarnish100 gr edamame100 gr soaked lotus seeds2 gr garlicOlive oilBalsamicOrange zestMETHOD OF PREPARATIONFor sauce1. Put all ingredients in a saucepot2. Simmer until all ingredientsare combinedRecipes provided by Ana EstevesFor pork1. Marinate pork in soy,cornstarch, egg whiteand sesame oil and keepovernight2. Heat a non-stick pan andsear the pork on bothsides3. Reduce to low heat andcool, add some sauce andfinish cookingFor garnish1. Heat up a pan over mediumheat, and sauté garlic untilfragrant2. Add the boiled edamamesand lotus seeds and sauté3. Adjust seasoningTo serve1. Place edamame-lotus seedmixture on the middle ofa plate2. Spoon around 180 gr ofcooked pork on top, andsauce according to youpreference3. Place thinly sliced orangezest on top of the pork4. Drizzle olive oil and a fewdrops of balsamic on theside62 asialife HCMC

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listingscultureTel: 3775 2520www.lottecinemavn.comModern cinema with four-way sound system.D7 location houses luxury theatreCharlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.me phimHCM City-based film initiative thatprovides support to local filmmakers andhosts regular film screenings/discussions.Email dduukk@gmail.com for informationor join the Facebook group.counsel cornerCLASSESAngelsBrush by VinTel: 0983377710Shyevin@mac.comOil painting course gives learners theopportunity to work from the differentobjects; explore different mediums,materials and techniques; and interpretline, tone and colour. Instructor workswith students on individual basis.Helen Kling Oil Painting189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien,D2 Tel: 0903 955 780hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@yahoo.comwww.helenkling.comHelene is a French painter who teachesbeginners (children and adults) varioustechniques and the art of working withdifferent mediums. She is also a fantastictool for advanced artists who are lookingto increase their creativity. Both day andnight courses are available. Helene has apermanent exhibition at FLOW, located88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.Printmakingalphagallery@bluemail.chClasses are held at Alpha Gallery taughtby the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber,who offers the chance to learn monotype,intaglio and etching techniques.CINEMASBobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 222086 Pham Ngoc Thachinfo@bobbybrewers.comPopular top-floor home cinema showingmovies five times a day on a largescreen. Email for the latest schedule.Cinebox212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 39350610240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425Cinebox cinemas show both originallanguage films with Vietnamese subtitlesand the dubbed versions.Future Shortsfutureshortsvietnam@gmail.comwww.futureshorts.com/vnVietnam branch of the internationalnetwork screens foreign and local shortfilms around town. Events often incorporateother media and elements, includinglive music, performances, installationsand discussion. Submissions accepted.Galaxy Cinema116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688www.galaxycine.vnLarge, modern cinema that shows thelatest foreign releases in English (withVietnamese subtitles).IDECAF31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451French cultural centre and cinematheatre. Showcases French movies withEnglish and Vietnamese subtitles. Alsohosts movies and documentaries from anumber of overseas film festivals.Lotte CinemaDiamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1Tel: 3822 7897LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7MegastarHung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong,D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan BinhTel: 6297 1981www.megastarmedia.netState-of-the-art cinema complex screeningthe lastest blockbusters with plush,reclining seats. All movies shown in originallanguage with Vietnamese subtitles.GALLERIESa little blah blahOUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex6 Thai Van Lung, D1albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.comOperates as an engine for contemporaryart by organizing projects, exhibitions,screenings and talks. Runs one majorart project each year and a reading roomwith more than 1,000 texts on art, designand creative culture. Free for everyoneand open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.Blue Space Contemporary ArtsCenter97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1Tel: 3821 3695bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vnwww.bluespacegallery.comBusy, working gallery with easelspropped up outside situated in thegrounds of the beautiful Fine ArtsMuseum. Holds regular exhibitions bylocal artists.Duc Minh Gallery31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498Housed in an opulent colonial mansion,private museum and art gallery showcasesthe private art collection of Vietnamesebusiness tycoon Bui Quoc Chi.Containing more than 1,000 pieces thatrange from traditional to contemporary.Galerie Quynh65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019www.galeriequynh.comThe city’s only international standardgallery, housed in a modern, two-floorspace. Organizes regular exhibitionsfeaturing established, emerging local/international contemporary artists, publishesoriginal catalogs in both Englishand Vietnamese.Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441btmthcm@hotmail.comInstitution housing contemporary/traditionalworks by Vietnamese and foreignartists. Pieces date from as early asthe 7th century. Includes Vietnameseantiques, art crafted by the Cham andFunan peoples.San Art Independent Artist Space3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898hoa@san-art.orgwww.san-art.orgArtist-run, non-profit exhibition spacefeaturing contemporary work by youngVietnamese artists. San Art hosts guestlecturers and curators. A reading roomof art books and magazines is open tothe public.TuDo Gallery53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966www.tudogallery.comHosting permanent exhibitions of worksby the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils,silk paintings and lacquerware. Morethan 1,000 pieces on show.Alcohol and YouBy Briar JacquesWhen living in a community withreduced recreational options,socialising often revolves aroundwining and dining. However,seeking fun and relaxationthrough drinking can become aproblem if it happens too often,which can lead to ill heath andpsychological and emotionalissues. When drinking becomesa way to cope with loneliness,worry, anger and sadness it becomeseven more of a complexproblem.It’s healthy to periodicallytake a good look at habits andlifestyle choices to hopefullyintervene in cycles before theybecome larger problems. Therefore,it’s important to understandthe definitions of harmfuluse, abuse and dependenceregarding alcohol.‘Harmful use’ of alcohol is apattern of use that has becomedamaging to overall health. Ifyou feel like your fitness andfeeling of wellbeing is beingadversely affected by alcohol itmight be a good idea to nominatecertain days of the week asalcohol free. If you do this youshould start to feel the benefitsvery quickly.‘Alcohol abuse’ involves amaladaptive pattern of drinkingwhich leads to clinically significantimpairment resulting in oneor more of the following:• Failure to fulfil major obligations• Alcohol use in situations inwhich it is physically hazardous• Related legal problems• Continued use despite persistentsocial and interpersonalproblemsIf you feel you are abusingalcohol it is important to seekprofessional help. Talk it overwith your GP as a good firststep and then consider someform of counselling so you canattend to the deeper issuesunder the habit.‘Alcohol dependence’ iswhen the body has adjustedto the presence of alcohol andrequires it for normal functioning.Dependence also involvesa psychological aspect wherethe person craves alcoholmentally and emotionally andthe activities associated with it.Dependence usually means theperson has developed tolerance– more alcohol required for thesame effect. If you want to dosomething about dependenceintervention is necessary.Twelve-step programs can bevery effective as can individualtherapy and sometimes evendrug therapy.It is challenging to look objectivelyat ourselves and not lapseinto criticism and subsequentdifficult, paralysing feelings. It istempting to ignore the fact thatwe may be using alcohol as anemotional crutch when it can besuch an effective one. If we candevelop the courage to befriendourselves enough we can getcreative about meeting ourneeds in ways that don’t havedamaging side effects. If wedon’t feel strong enough to dothis hopefully we can call on ourcourage and reach out for help.Briar Jacques is a trained Australiancounsellor who deals withissues like expat adjustment,depression, anxiety and drugabuse. Call 0121 480 8792.64 asialife HCMC

listingssports &leisureSport StreetHuyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 betweenNguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh KhaiServices include mending and restringingbroken tennis rackets. Products rangefrom badminton birdies and rackets tobasketball hoops, free weights, rollerblades, scooters, soccer jerseys and allmanner of balls.Trophies & Custom Signage StreetLe Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh andNguyen Thai HocOffers custom engraving on trophies andplaques made of plastic, wood, metaland glass.CRICKETSaigon Cricket AssocationSocial cricket league plays 25 oversa side matches Sunday mornings atRMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs Novemberthrough May, with friendly gamesthroughout the pre-season. Practice onSaturdays and Sunday afternoons.Australian Cricket ClubTerry Gordonterrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.ausaigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.comwww.saigoncricket.comEnglish Cricket ClubRichard CarringtonRichard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.cominfo@eccsaigon.comwww.eccsaigon.comIndian Cricket ClubManish Sogani, manish@ambrij.comUnited Cricket ClubMr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.netkeshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vnDANCINGDanCenter53 Nguyen Dang Giai,Thao Dien, District 2Tel: 3840 6974www.dancentervn.comPurpose built studio with foreign traineddance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet,tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula,capoiera and more. Kids can start from4+ and adults of all ages and levels arewelcome. Schedule and news on eventsavailable on-line.Salsa Dancing at La Habana6 Cao Ba Quat, D1www.salsaigon.comsalsaigon@gmail.comSix-week salsa package at 350,000VND for single persons and 550,000 fora couple, run by Urko. Lessons everyTuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).Registration required.FITNESS & YOGAAIS Sports Centre36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126sportscentre@aisvietnam.comwww.aissportscentre.comFeatures six-lane, 25-metre pool,basketball and netball courts, astroturfhockey/football area and outdoor gymequipment. Available for party hire, withBBQ included on request. Membershippackages available. Kids swim club andadult masters programmes. RainbowDivers offers scuba diving courses forchildren and adults. Free morning yoga.California WOW XperienceParkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D528/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999The world’s biggest fitness centre chainis one of Saigon’s most modern placesto get your sweat on. Located in HungVuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workoutarea and all kinds of classes includingspinning, KickFit, yoga and more.Caravelle Club Spa19 Lam Son Square, D1Tel: 3823 4999Modern and stylish gym withlots of cardiovascular machines and freeweights. The swimming pool is a greatplace for a dip, and the massage parlour,sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are therefor winding down.Equinox Fitness & Leisure CentreEquatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong,D5 Tel: 3839 7777Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with moderncardio and weights machines, sauna,steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floorpool great for swimming laps.L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181www.lapothiquaire.comInternationally-certified teachers offerdaily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar,Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo andAqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool,sauna and steam room.La CochinchineRex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477)New and affordable fitness centrelocated in the heart of the city. This gymhas a wide range of weight machines, aswell as many cardio machines, includingtreadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. Agood variety of classes are available,including yoga and aerobic dance.Nutrifort2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1Tel: 3825 8560news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.comComprehensive health and fitness centreoffering customized exercise, nutritionalcounseling to members. Specializing inweight loss programs, core/body alignmenttraining with Pilates equipment.Healthy snacks available.Park Hyatt Fitness Centre2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234Luxury health centre with the full range offacilities including swimming pool, steamroom, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Threemonthpeak membership costs USD$810++ and off-peak is $450++.Renaissance Hotel Health Club8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1Tel: 3822 0033Stylish health club with gym, swimmingpool, steam room, massage parlour,pool-side bar and an outstanding viewof the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or$10 a day.Saigon Fitness ClubNew World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1Tel: 3822 8888The modern Nautilus-equipped gym isstaffed by highly-qualified instructors tocater for your fitness needs. Features aswimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golfdriving range, jogging track, sauna, andmassage rooms.Sheraton FitnessLevel 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers,88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828sheraton.saigon@sheraton.comwww.sheraton.com/saigonSheraton Fitness features a team oftrained professionals and new Technogymequipment. Members have full useof leisure facilities and receive discountsat hotel bars and restaurants and AquaDay Spa.Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555Small but well-equipped gym withhelpful staff and quality equipment.Membership costs USD $700++ forsix months and $1,300++ for a year.Also runs a number of fitness classesincluding yoga.Suzanne & Saigon YogaTel: 090 835 2265suzanne@saigonyoga.comSuzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced)Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts twodecades of experience, offering variousyoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreatsin Vietnam.FOOTBALL & RUGBYAustralian Rules FootballTel: 093 768 3230www.vietnamswans.comvietnamswans@gmail.comThe Vietnam Swans play regular internationalfooty matches around Asia. Trainingsessions are held weekly in HCM City(2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi(midday, Saturday, UN InternationalSchool, Ciputra). All skill levels and codeswelcome.RMIT Vietnamsports.recreation@rmit.edu.vnA new player on the SIFL scene witha team made up of students from theUniversity. They have their own footballground on-site consisting of two brandnew pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.Saigon Raidersjon.hoff@saigonraiders.comSociable football side who are always onthe lookout for new talent for their weeklymatches and training sessions. The teamparticipates in the Saigon InternationalFootball League and also has regularfixtures against local teams in the outlyingprovinces and also participates ininternational tournaments.Saigon Rugby ClubTel: 0903 735 799www.saigonrfc.orgsaigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.comSocial, mixed touch rugby playedevery Saturday afternoon for adults atRMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularlywelcomes visiting teams and tours theregion for men’s contact and women’stouch rugby tournaments. Beginnerswelcome.GOLFDalat Palace Golf ClubPhu Dong Thien Vuong, DalatTel: 063 3821 101dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.comThe most beautiful course in Vietnam,combining the crisp mountain air withan environment of stately pine trees.Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge forgolfers of all levels.Dong Nai Golf ResortTrang Bom Town, Trang BomTel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590www.dongnaigolf.com.vnLarge golf resort with 27 holes, plus avilla complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi andbilliards. The resort sits on 160 hectaresof land in Dong Nai Province, about 50kilometres from the city.Ocean Dunes Golf Club1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan ThietTel: 062 3821 995odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.comDesigned by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yardpar-72 course winds through seasidedunes, with the variable coastal breezeschanging its character each day. Anenjoyable and eminently playable courseand has become a favourite venue forexpatriate tournaments.Saigon South GolfNguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7Tel: 5411 2001sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vnNine-hole mini golf course and drivingrange set amongst attractive gardensjust behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe andumbrella hire is also available.Song Be Golf Resort77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan AnTel: 0650 3756 660info@songbegolf.comwww.songbegolf.comLocated 22 kilometres from the city centre,the premier golf course in the areafeatures an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool,and a gymnasium.Vietnam Golf and Country ClubLong Thanh My Village, D9www.vietnamgolfcc.comThis facility consists of two courses of18 holes each, one of which is designedin a more traditional Asian style, and theother in international style. Has otherattractions such as boating, tennis and arestaurant area.LEISUREHash House Harrierswww.saigonh3.comRunning club that meets every Sundayat 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go ona run in different locations out of townwith their traditional balance of exerciseand beer.Phun Runnerinfo@phun-run.comSocial running group that meets Saturdaysat 7 am for a scenic run aroundSaigon before breakfast. Great way toexplore the city, meet fellow runners andget fit for future events.Rangers Baseball Clubisao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jpA baseball club always looking foradditional players of any age, race orexperience level. Plays Saturdays orSundays, often against Korean or Vietnameseteams.Saigon International Dart Leaguewww.thesidl.comA highly popular group in town, the dartsclub runs a competitive year-long leaguefor 16 pub-based teams. There are someexcellent players in this sociable and internationalgroup. See website for detailsof how to join and latest 180 scores.Saigon Pony ClubLane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2Tel: 0913 733 360A standout facility offering pony rides,riding lessons, horse clinics and ponyrentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.Ultimate FrisbeeRMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7www.saigon-ultimate.comJoin in this exciting popular sport everySunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm inSaigon South. Pan-Asian competitionsalso organised for the more experienced.Contact David Jensen at 0909458890X-Rock ClimbingPhan Dinh Phung Sport Centre75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3Tel: 6278 5794www.xrockclimbing.comOffering safe and professional climbingfor anyone aged 4 and up. Featuringmountain climbing routes rated frombeginner to advanced, climbing andbelay-safety courses and training,birthday parties, corporate team building.Excellent facilities for children and annualmembership for kids.asialife HCMC 65

questions for the coiffeurBy Lloyd MorganQ. Is it true your hair shouldbe dirty before colouring,if not what should I do inpreparation?A. It’s a bit of an old wives talethat colour can’t fully penetratedirty or product filled haircausing some parts of the hairto not take colour as well asothers. To be on the safe side,however, you should shampooyour hair the night beforecolouring and don’t conditionit. After the colouring, be sureto saturate it with a good conditioneror hair treatment.Q.What’s the normal pricestructure here?A. There are very few stylistshere who can do what youmay be used to, so I advisegoing to a foreign stylist. Theprices here are less than whatyou would spend on a nightout eating and drinking at agood restaurant in HCM Cityand lets face it, a good colourand cut lasts a lot longerthan a meal with wine. Makesure before you get your hairdone that you’re on the samewavelength as the hairdresserand if you have any problemswith the service that you cancome back for alterations.I’m appalled by some of thestories I have heard from mycolour repair clients about experienceswith foreign stylistswho had given them a hardtime when they came backfeeling dissatisfied with whathad been done to their hair.The hair world is no differentthan any other professionalservice. If a client isn’t satisfiedthey look elsewhere. Inthe hair world we have theopportunity to make peoplehappy about themselves andthat’s worth a lot more thangiving somebody a hard timebecause they aren’t satisfiedwith the service.Lloyd Morgan runs the LloydMorgan International Hair Studioat 234 Nguyen Van Huong,Thao Dien, D2. Contact himat 0908 422 007 or lloydart@yahoo.com.listingshealth &beautyALTERNATIVE MEDICINEAmerican Chiropractic Clinic8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667www.vietnamchiropractic.comA chiropractic, physiotherapy, footcare clinic staffed by American-trainedchiropractors speaking French, English,Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treatsback pain, neck pain, knee pain, alsospecializing in sports injuries, manufactureof medical grade foot orthotics.Theta Healing– Jodie EastwoodTel: 091 859 1933www.thetahealing.comA unique energy healing technique formind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UKqualified practitioner based in HCM City.Traditional Medicine Hospital197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3Friendly staff speak little to no Englishat this well-known ad spotlessly cleanhospital offering treatments that combinetraditional Chinese medicine with modernknowledge and expertise.COSMETIC TREATMENTCao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5Tel: 3923 4419A modern clinic offering a comprehensiverange of optical services. Specializes inLASIK correctional procedures, costingfrom USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes.English spoken. Open seven days aweek.FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 61676 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7Tel: 5411 3366www.fvhospital.comInternational-standard cosmetic proceduresfrom simple dermabrasion andchemical peels to collagen injections,nose and eye shaping, liposuction, andbreast enhancement. Procedures carriedout by French and Vietnamese doctorsusing the latest equipment.Parkway Shenton International ClinicSuite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1Owned by the Singapore-basedhealthcare giant Parkway Holdings, thisaesthetics clinic offers a range of bothsurgical and non-surgical treatmentsincluding dental reconstruction.DENTALAccadent Dental Clinic1st Floor, 161 Dong Khoi, D1Tel: 3825 8528English and German-speaking dentists.Accadent provide State of the ArtGerman quality Dentistry, Sterilisation,customer care and Painless Treatments.German dentists are specialised inEsthetic Dentistry, Implants, Periodontologyand Endodontics with latest Germanquality to all needs.European Dental Clinic17 - 17A Le Van Mien,Thao Dien, D2Tel: 0918 749 204/083744 9744Expat English and French-speakingdentist. Performs full range of dentaltreatment including whitening, aestheticfillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics,veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24-hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or0916 352940.Koseikai Dental Clinic3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1Tel: 3910 6255info@koseikai.com.vnwww.koseikaidentist.comA member of Dental Clinic Vietnam,provide full range of dental serviceswith the latest in technology, delivery oflaboratory work and new technologiesnow available.Starlight Dental ClinicDr. Philippe Guettier & InternationalTeam of Dentists2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1Tel: 3822 6222doe.linh@gmail.comWith 14 years’ experience providingdental treatment to expat and Vietnamesepatients, this well-known dentalsurgery is staffed by both foreign &local practitioners. Au fait with the latesttreatments and techniques, the surgeryprides themselves on their high standardof equipment & sterilization.Tu Xuong Dental Clinic51A Tu Xuong, D3Tel: 3932 2049/050drhung01@yahoo.comwww.nhakhoatuxuong.comProvides general and cosmetic dentalservices at reasonable prices. Specialisesin implants, orthodontic treatments andmaking crowns and bridges. Staff areprofessional and speak English.Westcoast International Dental Clinic27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1Tel: 3825 699971-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777info@westcoastinternational.comwww.westcoastinternational.comCanadian-run dental clinic staffed byFrench, Japanese, English and Vietnamesespeaking dental professionals.See Medical listings for hospitals withdental services.HAIR & SALONAnthony George for London Hair &BeautyFIDECO Riverview Building14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475www.aglondonsalon.com.vnTop British stylist George brings hisunique flair to hair in District 2. The modern,stylish and professional salon is hostto a staff of professionally trained beautytherapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopfand L’Oreal products. Shampoo,cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; minifacials from $12.Jasmine45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vnFriendly and efficient staff offers haircutsand a wide range of services includingwaxing, manicures, pedicures and otherbeauty treatments. Skin renewal facial,salt or rice body scrub & deep tissuemassage costs USD $98Le Brian Salon201 Calmette, D1195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2Vietnamese-American hairstylist withdual locations, offering a full range of hairservices, as well as professional make-upapplication.Lloyd Morgan International HairStudio234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2Tel: 090 8422 007International stylist Lloyd Morgan is oneof the best in town. He’s been in thebusiness for over 30 years and brings hisexpertise to this established, top-notchsalon.Qi Spa151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanTel: 3844 1719Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 715066 asialife HCMC

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon,Tel: 3997 5437High-end salon and spa offers thestandard range of services in a calmingatmosphere with good service. Waxing,nail services, hair dressing as well asluxurious facial and massage treatmentson offer.OPI253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3International brand of nail care offeringa variety of treatments from standardmanicures at 50,000 VND to the wholehost nail services such as acrylics,powder gell, cuticle treatments andFrench polishing.Quang Qui’s Nails146 Le Thanh Ton, D1242 Le Thanh Ton, D1Locally popular spots with low pricesand good service, offering anything youcould possibly want for your nails.MEDICALCARE1 Executive Health Care CenterThe Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh,Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.comwww.care1.com.vnSister clinic of Family Medical Practice,CARE1 is an executive health care centreoffering comprehensive preventative-carecheckups in a modern and professionalsetting. State-of-the-art technology providesfast and accurate diagnoses.Centre MedicalInternational (CMI)1 Han Thuyen, D1Tel: 3827 2366www.cmi-vietnam.comLocated downtown next to the cathedral,the centre provides a high standardof medical care from qualified Frenchand Vietnamese physicians. Its rangeof services include general and tropicalmedicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy,pediatrics, psychiatry, speechtherapy and traditional Eastern medicine.Family MedicalPractice HCMCDiamond Plaza,34 Le Duan, D1Tel: 3822 7848www.vietnammedicalpractice.comLeading international primary healthcareprovider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-artmedical centre and highly-qualified multilingualforeign doctors. Extensive experiencein worldwide medical evacuationswith car and air ambulance on standby.Also in Hanoi and Danang.FV Hospital6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7Tel: 5411 3333www.fvhospital.comA foreign-owned international-standardhospital with a mixture of French andVietnamese physicians. Offers qualityservices, comprehensive patient careand is particularly well regarded forits maternity care. Full array of dentalservices from examination, cleaning andwhitening to fillings, cosmetic proceduresand implants. 24-hour emergency line:3411 3500.International SOS167A Nam Ky KhoiNghia, D3 Tel: 38298424www.internationalsos.comGlobally-renowned provider of medicalassistance and international healthcare.Specializes in offering medical transportand evacuation both within and outsideof Vietnam for urgent medical cases.Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Hasmultilingual staff.Victoria Healthcare135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanTel: 3997 454579 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545Well-regarded clinic offering generalexaminations and specializing in pediatrics,digestive diseases, cardiology andwomen's health. Offers a membershipprogram and cooperates with mostinsurance companies in Vietnam andabroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.NAILSNail P.KH51 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1A well-known local place with a numberof manicure stations and an extensiverange of services. A mani-pedi with polishstarts at 40,000 VND.SKINCAREThe Body Shop87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1Tel: 3823 368331 Nguyen Trai, D1Tel: 3926 0336www.thebodyshop.comInternational cosmetics retailer withstrong commitment to environmentsources natural ingredients from smallcommunities for its line of more than600 products.L’Apothiquaire100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1Parkson Saigon Tourist PlazaParkson Hung Vuong PlazaThe Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D764A Truong Dinh, D307 Han Thuyen, D1Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082www.lapothiquaire.cominfo@lapothiquaire.comFrench-made natural products for alltypes of skin. Also offers exclusive naturalItalian skin, body and hair care fromErbario Toscano.Marianna Medical LaserSkincare149A Truong Dinh, D3Tel:3526 4635www.en.marianna.com.vnProfessional Laser Clinic in Ho ChiMinh City, Marianna owns the excellentexperts in Aesthetic Medicine and themodern technologies such as Laser,Botox, Filler and all solutions can helpyou more beautiful and younger dayby daySian Skincare Laser Clinic71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999info@sianclinic.comwww.sianclinic.comSkincare laser clinic offering the latestin non-surgical esthetic treatmentsincluding Botox, laser, acne treatments,hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skinrejuvenation and anti-aging treatments.Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leadingesthetic dermatologist from the hospitalof Dermatology of HCMC.SPASAqua Day SpaSheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1Tel: 3827 2828Recently revamped luxury eight-roomspa with a holistic approach to treatment,using natural Harnn productsplus hot stone therapy and seaweedtreatments.Renaissance Riverside Spa8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1Tel: 3822 0033No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu andaromatherapy massages from USD $22plus a room dedicated to foot massagesfrom $18 at the atrium level. Alsohas sizable steam and sauna rooms atthe clubXuan SpaPark Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1Tel: 3824 1234Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedishmassage and water therapy includingthe unique 60 minutes Vichy showerto soften and smooth skin or theIndian Shirodhara with special oil for45 minutes. Spa packages aimed atrejuvenation, calming, and hydrating arealso available.NEW SKINNEW FACEMARIANNA MEDICAL LASER SKIN CARE149A Truong Dinh Street, Ward 9, District 3, HCMCTell: 08.3526 4636 – 3526 4635 - Hotline: 0903 731 555Email: cskh@marianna.com.vn - Web: www.en.marianna.com.vnWRINKLEHYPERPIGMENTACNEACNE SCARasialife HCMC 67

listingsfamilyACTIVITIESDanCenter53 Nguyen Dang Giai,Thao Dien, District 2Tel: 3840 6974www.dancentervn.comChildren and teenagers from age 4+can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acrodance and break dance classes at thisprofessionally run, newly built dancestudio. Schedule and news on eventsavailable on-line.Helene Kling Paintinghelene_kling@yahoo.comOffers classes in oil painting to bothchildren and adults for 150,000 VND and300,000 VND respectively. Classes arepaced to suit each student.Briar Jacquesbjacques123@gmail.comCel: 0122 480 8792Helping families, individuals, couples, childrenand teens. Caring and confidentialcounselling to address issues such asexpat adjustment, depression, anxietyand substance abuse. We take a holisticapproach to enhance wellbeing on mental,emotional and physical levels.Saigon Pony ClubLane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2Tel: 0913 733 360Close to X-rock climbing centre, kidsfrom three and upwards can ride oneof the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons withforiegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost350,000 VND for kids from age six.Tae KwondoBP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 andRiverside Villa Compound, Vo TruongToan, D2phucteacherkd@yahoo.comPrivate and group classes are run afterschool three times a week by the friendlyMr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of fiveis welcome to join in the course, whichcosts USD $50 for 12 classes/month witha $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr.Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.BABY EQUIPMENTBelli Blossom4F-04 Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van LinhParkway, Phu My Hung, D7Tel: 5413 7574Belli Blossom catering to moms andbabies with imported brands of maternityand nursing wear and accessories, infantclothes, baby bottles and feeding products,strollers, high chairs, slings, babycarriers, diaper bags, and many others.Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway,Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, LuvableFriends, Gingersnaps.Maman BebeVincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3825 8724www.mamanbebe.com.vnStocks an assortment of modern strollersand car seats. Also sells various utensilsand practical baby products. Smallselection of clothing for ages newborn to14 years.Me & Be230 Vo Thi Sau, D340 Ton That Tung, D1141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanThe closest thing to Mothercare the cityhas to offer. Stocks a substantial rangeof apparel for babies including bottlesand sterilizers, cots (including travel cots),clothing, toys, safety equipment andmore, all at reasonable prices.Me Oi1B Ton That Tung, D1A small shop adjacent to the maternityhospital bursting at the seams with everythingyou need for your baby. Clothing,footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bagsand toys all at reasonable prices.EDUCATIONABC InternationalSchool2,1E Street, KDC TrungSon, Binh Hung, BinhChanh Tel: 5431 1833abcintschoolss@vnn.vnwww.theabcis.comUK standards-based curriculum awardsdiploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certifiedby Cambridge Universit examinationsboard. From playgroup to pre-universitymatriculation. Served by 80+ Britishteachers. Good facilities and extra-curricularactivities.ACG International SchoolEast West Highway, An Phu, D2Tel: 3747 1234www.acgedu.comPart of the Academic Colleges Group’sinternational network of schools, ACGoffers comprehensive education fromkindergarten to senior high school and arange of extracurricular activities. Internationalcurricula (IB PYP and CambridgeInternational Examinations).The Australian InternationalSchool SaigonCherry Blossom 1 & Lotus1, APSC Compound, 36Thao Dien, D2Middle & Senior Campus21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3enrolment@aisvietnam.comwww.aisvietnam.comAn international curricula and PYP/MYPcandidate school. Senior students followIGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Onlyschool in Vietnam authorized to deliverUniversity of New South Wales FoundationStudies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourcedclassrooms, highly trained andexperienced expatriate teachers, outfittedfor academic, sport, creative activities.British International SchoolPrimary Campus43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2Secondary Campus246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2Tel: 3744 2335www.bisvietnam.comWith campuses all over the city andexpansion underway, BIS offers a mixtureof both English and International curriculabasededucation alongside excellentfacilities and extra-curricular activities.Senior students follow the IGCSE and IBprogrammes.ERC86-88-92 Huynh VanBanh, Phu NhuanTel: 6292 9288www.erci.edu.vnERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore.Founded by a group of successfulbusiness leaders around Asia Pacific. Ourprimary objective is to groom and mentora new generation of business leaders inVietnam equipped with skills to analyze68 asialife HCMC

and solve real-world business challengesof today.German International School257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan BinhTel: 7300 7247www.gis.vnA bilingual English and German school,supported by the Federal Republic ofGermany, where children can learnsubjects in both languages. The curriculumfollows the National Curriculumof Germany, which provides students theassurance they can enter or re-enter theGerman Education System at any time.Horizon International Bilingual SchoolHCMC6 Street 44, D2Tel: 5402 2482www.hibsvietnam.comThe only bilingual international schooloffering dormitories for their students.Located in the most prestigious areain HCMC offering from kindergarten upto grade 12. The school apply 100%Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well asan intensive English program. HIBS alsohas 2 campuses in centre Hanoi.International SchoolHCMC28 Vo Truong Toan,D2Tel: 3898 9100www.ishcmc.comOne of 136 schools around the world tobe accredited as an IB World School. Offersall three of the IB programmes fromprimary through to grade 12. The schoolis fully accredited by CIS and NEASCand has a strong focus on communityspirit and fosters an awareness of otherlanguages and cultures.Montessori International School42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2Tel: 3744 2639www.montessori.edu.vnMontessori utilizes an internationallyrecognized educational method whichfocuses on fostering the child’s naturaldesire to learn. The aim is to create anencouraging environment conducive tolearning by developing a sense of self andindividuality.Renaissance InternationalSchool74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7Tel: 3773 3171www.rissaigon.edu.vnIB World school, one of Vietnam’sinternational schools operating within theframework of the British system. RISSprovide a high quality English mediumeducation in a stimulating, challengingand supportive environment.ENTERTAINMENTGymboree Play & MusicSomerset Chancellor Court21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1Tel: 3827 7008www.gymboreeclasses.com.vnThe Gymboree Play & Music offerschildren from newborn to 5 years old theopportunity to explore, learn and play inan innovative parent-child programmes.PARTIESNguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1A curious shop stocking a range of handmadefancy dress costumes such asmasks, superman outfits and much more.The stock changes seasonally, so this isa good place to stock up on Halloween,Christmas and other holiday-specificparty costumes.The Balloon ManTel: 3990 3560Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons.Great service has earned this chapa reputation around town for turning upalmost instantly with a superb selection ofballoons. Also provides helium balloons.OPEN DAY16 th MARCH9 - 12 AM,AT THE GIS CAMPUS- WELCOME- SCHOOL TOUR- Q&AEarly Years ProgramINFORMATION EVENING8 th MARCHSTARTS 6 PM, AT THE GIS CAMPUSBILINGUAL LEARNINGWITHIN A STIMULATINGENVIRONMENT257 Hoang Van Thu District Tan Binh, HCMC, VietnamWebsite: www.little-explorers.vn / www.giss.vn. Phone +84873 007 257. Fell free to confirm at info@giss.vnTOGETHER WE SOLVE PROBLEMSasialife HCMC 69

financelistingslivingPham The11 Le Cong Kieu, D1An authorized service centre for Nikoncamera that also specializes in repairingall camera makes. Measurement equipmentand spare parts also available.Shop 4646 Nguyen Hue, D1Small shop run by photographer andcollector. The owner’s more collectiblepieces are pricey, but entry-level manualfocus SLRs from the 70s and 80s areaffordable.tough loveBy Afonso VieiraThe first worldwide recessionsince the 1930s hasleft an enormous burden ofdebt that now weighs on theprospects of recovery. Today,the three main economic actors(households, businessesand governments) face thequestion of how to reducedebt, also called deleveraging.Households and businessescan only use a combinationof three options: not payingwhat they owe, known asa default or partial-default;austerity, or tightening theirbelts; and increasing revenue,also called economic growth.Governments, however, havethree more options. Becausegrowing the economy fasterand deleveraging throughausterity takes time, and canbe very painful and unpopular,too much debt has sometimesbeen easily addressed byusing only-for-government optionslike inflation (Chile from1984 to 1991), money printing(Zimbabwe in 2006) and currencydevaluation (Vietnamfrom 2008 to present).From FinlandAusterity is the most widelyused option to start deleveragingaccording to a 2010McKinsey study. Episodeslast on average from six toseven years. Finland is aclassic example in economicsof how austeritykickstarted deleveraging. In1991 Finland’s total debt (thesum of household, businesseand government debts) toGDP ratio was at an all timehigh of 108 percent. Theeconomy had been in a deeprecession since one year earlierand unemployment hadreached 18 per cent at onestage. The Finns decidedto utilize a combination ofseveral models. First, householdsand businesses savedmore and paid down debt(austerity). Second, somedebt was also erased viabankruptcies (default). Third,the government more thandoubled public debt (moneyprinting) from 1991 to 1994,in an attempt to restoreconfidence and generate aneconomic rebound. Fourth,the currency at the time lostclose to 30 per cent in realterms (currency devaluation)during the same period. Fifth,because the currency hadlost value it became easier toexport which led to a surgein net exports (growth). By1998 Finland’s total debt toGDP ratio fell to 73 per centand real domestic demandhad returned to its pre-crisislevel one year later. A happyending.Afonso Vieira is the head ofinvestment management atTotal Wealth Management.Contact him at afonso.vieira@t-wm.com.BUSINESS GROUPSAmChamNew World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1Business Centre, Room 323Tel: 3824 3562www.amchamvietnam.comAusChamTV Building, Suite 1A, 31A NguyenDinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73/ 74www.auschamvn.orgBritish Business Group of Vietnam25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430execmgr@bbgv.orgwww.bbgv.orgCanChamNew World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1Business Centre, Room 305Tel: 3824 3754www.canchamvietnam.orgCiti Bank115 Nguyen HueSt, D1 Tel: 38242118Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range ofbanking services to both consumer andcorpo-rate. Services include Corporateand Investment Banking, Global TransactionServices, and Consumer Banking.In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has apresence in both HCMC and Hanoi.Eurocham257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan BinhTel: 3845 5528www.eurochamvn.orgGerman Business Group21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1www.gba-vietnam.orgSingapore Business GroupUnit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,D1 Tel: 3823 3046www.sbghcmc.orgSwiss Business Association42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2Tel: 3744 6996Fax: 3744 6990Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vnwww.swissvietnam.comHong Kong Business AssociationNew World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1Business Centre, Room 322Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888www.hkbav.comNordChamBitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,D1 Tel: 3821 5423www.nordcham.comCAMERASHung Hai75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1A good place to purchase hard-to-findgear and some rare equipment, mainlyauto focus lenses.Le Duc5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3A shop for all your professional accessoryneeds. From lighting equipment totripods and reflectors, the shop offersthe best equipment and service in HCMCity.COMPUTERSComputer StreetLuong Huu Khanh, D1 between NguyenThi Minh Khai and Nguyen TraiThis stretch of District 1 is literally wall towall with small shops selling computers,printers, monitors and everything computerrelated, more so toward the NTMKend of the drag.iCenter142A Vo Thi Sau, D3Tel: 3820 3918Professional, polished Apple retailer andrepair centre with an attractive showroomfeaturing some of the latest in accessoriesand audio. English-speakers on staff.Honours Apple service plans.Future World240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3Authorized reseller of Apple computersand products, as well as some off-branditems like headphones. Excellent serviceand English-speaking staff. Acceptscredit cards.Phong Vu Computer264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1Tel: 3933 0762www.vitinhphongvu.comThe biggest and busiest of the PCstores in town. Known for good, efficientservice, in-house maintenance and aftersalesrepair on the second floor.SYS Vi Tinh Saigon96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1www.vtsaigon.comA superb place with an excellent reputationfor after-sales service with competentEnglish speaking staff and a wide rangeof products and services. Freeware andshareware also available on the storewebsite.CONSULTINGConcetti33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480www.concetti-vn.comConsulting and research company fortechnology transfer and investment.Embers-Asia Ltd.Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 PhanXich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163www.embers-asia.comWith a focus on experiential learning,Embers-Asia has been creating anddelivering high-performance training anddevelopment solutions forcorporations, embassies, internationalschools and NGOs throughout SoutheastAsia since 2002.Ernst & YoungSaigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4ATon Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252www.ey.comProfessional service firm specializing inadvisory, assurance, tax, transactionsand strategic growth markets.Flamingo Corporate ServicesTel: 2217 1662Email: info@flamingovn.comwww.flamingovn.comSpecializes in business immigration,providing services like visas, work andresident permits, police clearance, APECcards, authentication and legalization ofwork experience certificates and degreesin Vietnam and abroad.70 asialife HCMC

Grant ThorntonSaigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton DucThang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100www.gt.com.vnInternational business advisors specializingin auditing, management consulting,corporate finance, risk management andinformation technology.IF ConsultingIBC Building, 3rd Floor1A Me Linh Square, D14th Floor, 5 Ba TrieuHoan Kiem District, HanoiTel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.comPrivate insurance and finance.Indochine CouncelHan Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1Tel: 3823 9640www.indochinecounsel.comBusiness law firm specializing in legalservices to corporate clients in relationto their business and investment inVietnam.Inspired Image42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1Tel: 091 635 2573www.inspiredimage.co.ukImage consultant and personal stylist.Previous clients include business leaders,TV presenters and busy professionals.International Management Initiativefor Vietnam (IMIV)info@imiv.orgwww.imiv.orgThe International Management Initiativefor Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiativewithin VinaCapital Foundation thatpromotes excellence in business leadershipand management by bringing toVietnam proven international executiveeducation and professional developmentprogrammes.Phuong Nguyen ConsultingTPC Business Center, 92-96 NguyenHue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391www.pnp-consulting.comSpecializing in business facilitation,conferences, education counselling,market-entry research and IT/businessconsulting.Prism Information TechnologyServicesLevel 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen ThiMinh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416info@prism.com.vnA foreign-owned information and communicationstechnology company thatoffers value-added IT solutions. Enableslocal businesses to attain and maintaininternational IT standards to be morecompetitive in the marketplace.Rouse & Co. InternationalAbacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,D1 Tel: 3823 6770www.iprights.comGlobal intellectual property firm providinga full range of IP services including patentand trade mark agency services.Star Management Limited92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765www.starlimited.comBusiness advisory services for companiesinvesting in Vietnam, businessproject advancement and a range ofbusiness development services.TMF Vietnam Company LimitedUnit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon TradeCenter37 Ton Duc Thang, D1Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113Fax: 3910 0590www.tmf-group.comWith headquarters in Amsterdam andRotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes inaccounting outsourcing and consulting.PERSONAL FINANCIAL PLANNINGTotal Wealth Management66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3Tel: 3820 0623www.t-wm.comSpecialists in selecting and arrangingtax-efficient savings and pension plansfor expatriates. Offers councel on privatebanking services, wealth protection inoffshore jurisdictions, currency risks andhedging strategies.Towers Watson Vietnam (formerlyWatson Wyatt and SMART HR)Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite808, D1Tel: 3821 9488Global HR consulting firm specializing inexecutive compensation, talent management,employee rewards and surveys,HR effectiveness and technology, dataservices and total rewards surveys.DECORAntique StreetLe Cong Kieu Street, D1 betweenNguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc ChinhA variety of antiques and faux antiquesfrom Thailand, China and Vietnamincluding silverware, compasses, lighters,brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses,religious and pagan statues, candlestickholders, furniture and watches.Asian Fish34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1Boutique-style arts and crafts store sellinglocally made gifts and souvenirs, alldesigned by the Japanese owner. Productsinclude clothing, bags, crockery,sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.Aquarium StreetNguyen Thong Street, D3 between VoThi Sau and Ly Chinh ThangDedicated street has everything oneneeds to display fish: tanks, decor, feed,filters and the fish themselves.Budget Housewares StreetCorner of Pasteur and Nguyen DinhChieuStock up on shower heads, kitchensupplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.),coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans,champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trashbins, ironing boards, magazine racksand the like.Chau Loan213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991Gallery based in a colonial shophousestocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oilpaintings and images of Buddha. Alsodeals in better-known reproductions.Decosy112 Xuan Thuy, D2Tel: 6281 9917Producer of a large selection of Europeanstyled furniture and interior fittings,specializing in wrought iron and patine(distressed) wood finishes. Also stocksa wide-range of decorative accessories,crockery and fixtures. Custom designservices available upon request.Dogma175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488www.dogmavietnam.comLocated upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, thisart gallery deals in Vietnamese propagandaposters, apparel, accessories andrandom paraphernalia. Large prints aresold at USD $60 each and small printscost $25.Mekong-Quilts64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1Tel: 3914 2119www.mekong-quilts.orgNGO enterprise specializes in quilts andsells a range of appealing handmadeproducts created by underprivilegedwomen in Binh Thuan Province.Mekong Creations64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1Tel: 3914 2119www.mekong-quilts.orgNGO enterprise specializes in quilts andasialife HCMC 71

people matterMeeting Clients’ ExpectationsBy Gary WoollacottOne of our most difficult tasks– and perhaps for all serviceproviders – is to meet clients’expectations when it comesto delivery of that service. It’svery important at the outsetof the relationship to establishclearly what can, and can’t,be done within certain agreedtimeframes. There's a mantraof 'under-promise and overdeliver'that most serviceproviders will be familiar with.We have a client right nowthat is very demanding – andthat's fine: they are paying usto find the best in the marketand we have willingly undertakento do so. One problemwe face is to complete thetask within the expected timeframe,and this is where wemight struggle a bit. We knowwhat we have to do to carryout a thorough search and behappy with the results, but it’scommunicating that clearlyand sensibly to our client thatmight be a challenge. Puttingpressure on us might makethem feel better, but it doesn’thelp us to produce candidatesany quicker. There's a processin executive search and itsimply takes time to workthrough it. Yes, it is possibleto rush but one might endup compromising quality forspeed – not the way we wantto do it. Explaining that to ourclient is not always easy.But we do what we can,of course, and attempt tokeep the client as involved aspossible in the progress of thesearch. This might mean thatthey are provided with moreinformation than some othersearch firms divulge, but wethink it’s a good thing so thatthey can appreciate what ishappening on the days thatthey don’t get an update fromus. A little bit of communicationcan go a long way– something that we don’talways remember, sadly – weare human beings. Perhapsthere's a lesson there, for allof us.On the topic of communication,I am sure that I speakfor all service providers when Isay that it’s a two-way street:we love feedback from ourclients as it really helps usrefine what we are doing toget a better result this time, aswell as enabling us to improveour services next time. Keepit coming!As usual, let me know if youhave any particular topic youwould like to see covered here.Gary Woollacott is the CEO ofOpus executive search in Vietnamand Thailand. He can bereached at +84 8 3827 8209or via gary@opusasia.net.Opus is a partner of HortonInternational.sells a range of appealing handmadeproducts created by underprivilegedwomen in Binh Thuan Province.Minh Boutique15 Nguyen Thiep, D1Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapotwarmers, ice buckets and sake drinkingsets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sellsa range of silverware, egg holders andice tongs.OUT-2 STUDIOL6 Fafilm annex6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056STUDIO@OUT-2.comwww.out-2.comStudio space for independent designersto showcas their wares, sell their workand meet with clients. Open Monday tSaturday 10 am to 6 pm.Phuong Mai213C Dong Khoiwww.phuongmai-gallery.comGallery specializing in original oils byVietnamese artists. The works here are amish-mash of styles but do contain somestandouts, particularly well-known localartists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.Sapa125 Ho Tung Mau, D1Offers a better selection of hill tribehandicrafts than most of its rivals.Concentrates mainly on the hand-wovenclothing of the indigenous tribespeople ofthe region. There is also a line in ladies’shoes and the standard range of silkwraps and bags.Unity12 Đang Tran Con, D1Unity offers accessories that are designedto seamlessly blend in with yourlife. Familiar basics are given a contemporaryupdate with the use of modern,alternative materials like silicone, rubber,and brushed aluminum. From orbitallamps and eggshell-white china, to wireclaspedwater bottles, each individualpiece complements the others in thecollection—to give your home a senseof Unity.ELECTRONICSHi End Audio84 Ho Tung Mau, D1A standout that stocks the very latestand greatest in home entertainment.Retails in everything from giant plasmascreenTVs to audio equipment. Mosttop brands are available.iDEAS Shopping Centre133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3The largest of the electonics storesalong the street, the three-storey iDEASsells every type of electronic and homeappliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties.Staff speaks some English.Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1Tel: 3821 1211www.nguyenkim.comStocks DVD/CD players, cameras,TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo,Panasonic, Philips and other majormanufacturers. Also a good place to pickup electronic kitchen supplies like coffeemakers and rice cookers, as well as largeand small appliances, from hot waterheaters to regrigerators.Phong Vu125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1Tel: 6290 8777www.vitinphongvu.comTwo-storey electronics store retails ininternational products convenientlygrouped by brand. Carries computers,home audio, printers, hard drives andmore, as well as a variety of mobilephones, handheld electronic devices andaccessories.Savico117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993One-stop electronics and home appliancesuperstore. All products have aone to three-year warranty.Tech StreetHuynh Thuc Khang Street betweenTon That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronicmoney counters, video games andsystems, Discmans, mp3 players andportable DVD players.FURNITUREAppeal41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258A small, upscale shop that offers modernaccents for the sleek dining room.The colours of the over-sized vases andfruit bowls are either glistening red orlacquered black.AustinHome20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023Outstanding quality and style for yourhome. The shop says its products arehand-picked by an American furnitureexpert from the best factories in Vietnam.Upholstery, accessories, antiquesand more.Catherine Denoual15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394Beautiful showroom with clean linesand a sumptuous array of bedroomproducts including bedside lamps,linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.Decosy112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917Producer of a large selection of Europeanstyled furniture and interior fittings,specializing in wrought iron and patine(distressed) wood finishes. Also stocksa wide-range of decorative accessories,crockery and fixtures. Custom designservices available upon request.El Gallery23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306Traditional decor with a modern twist.Offers a variety of mid- to high-rangefurniture, rugs, lighting, art and accessoriesfrom around the world, plusinterior design services. Also importsfurniture to Vietnam for export toEurope and the United States.Esthetic11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh ThanhTel: 3514 7371/7372Fax: 3514 7370esthetic@vnn.vnwww.estheticfurnishing.com.vnDesign and manufacture as orderwith a mixture of antique and modernfurniture. Friendly staff speak excellentEnglish.Furniture Outlet3A Ton Duc Thang, D1Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104Wide selection of well-crafted andcarefully constructed pine wood piecesat good prices, aimed at customerscraving a taste of Europe.Furniture StreetNgo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai Toand Nguyen Chi ThanhVery affordable furniture can be foundon this stretch: couches, mattresses,desks, chairs, etc. It often takes somelooking to find a gem. A connectedsidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’shops.Gaya1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1Tel: 3925 1495www.gayavietnam.comFour-floor store featuring the work offoreign designers: home accessoriesand outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston,linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda,furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh,laquerware decor by Michele De Albertand furniture and decor by vivekkevin.72 asialife HCMC

LINH‘S WHITE37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863Furniture shop that focuses on solidwood furniture and decorative itemsranging from pillows and lamps tobedding. Also offers kids’ furniture andcustom pieces.Rare Decor41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh ThanhTel: 3840 6304/5Leading home furnishings company inVietnam, supplying high quality, uniqueproducts. Also offer custom madefurniture, accessories and lighting forcommercial projects and home use.Remix Deco222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3Tel: 3930 4190www.remixdeco.comBoutique furniture store in sprawling whitewith modern furniture including sofas,tables and seating from around the world.Featured designers include Le Corbusier,Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starckand Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.The Furniture Warehouse3B Ton Duc Thang, D1Tel: 6657 0788namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@webtnl.comOffers a range of reasonably priced Italian,European and French colonial sofas,indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lightingand interior décor, as well as customdesigns based on clients’ specifications.All at international quality export.The Lost Art31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1Tel: 3829 0134Extensive product range as well ascomprehensive interior design service,from initial conceptualization to design,manufacture and installation of uniqueproducts.Thien An Furniture90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1Tel: 3910 5650A range of beautiful furniture with adistinct traditional flavor from colourfulsilk lampshades, wooden carved beds,screens, chests and more.Tran Duc Homes47-49-51 Phung Khac Khoan, D1Tel: 7300 0777B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le ThanhTon, D1 Tel: 3993 9700Wood solutions partner for high-end residentialand resort projects. Experiencedin manufacturing and installing woodenmodular housing, interior fittings and contemporaryindoor and outdoor furniture.LEGALAllens Arthur RobinsonSaigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1Tel: 3822 1717www.vietnamlaws.comAustralian law firm for law translationservices and legal advice on foreigninvestment and business in Vietnam.Baker & McKenzieSaigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1Tel: 3829 5585www.bakernet.comInternational law firm providing on-thegroundliaison and support servicesto clients interested in investigating,negotiating and implementing projectsin Vietnam.Frasers InternationalSaigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Tel: 3824 2733www.frasersvn.comFull service commercial law firm providinginternational and Vietnamese legal adviceto both foreign and local clients specializingin transactions in Vietnam.Indochine CounselHan Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1Tel: 3823 9640www.indochinecounsel.comBusiness law practitioners specializingin mergers & acquistions, inward investment,and securities & capital markets.Limcharoen, Hughes and GlanvilleHavana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1Tel: 6291 7000www.limcharoen.comFull service international law firm withhead office in Thailand. Main focus onreal estate in Asia.Lucy Wayne & Associates17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 4395www.lwavietnam.comLaw firm providing legal services acrossthe board from entertainment andenvironmental law to health care andreal estate.Phillips FoxSaigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1Tel: 3822 1717Full service law firm providing legalservices in healthcare, education, crime,banking and hospitality among others.Pricewaterhousecoopers LegalSaigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1Tel: 3823 0796www.pwc.com/vnPart of a network of international legaland financial advisors, PWC gives bothspecialist and general legal advice with afocus on mutli-territory projects.Rödl & PartnerSomerset Chancellor Court21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1Tel: 3824 4225www.roedl.comEuropean legal firm assisting foreigninvestors with structuring/establishingcompanies, investment projects, andmergers & acquistions.LIGHTINGCaodong Design Boutique37bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1207L Vo Thi Sau, D3Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Spanking new store with a range ofbeautiful items ranging from interestinglighting with decorative table lamps withhand-painted paper shades and somelovely leather boxes and gift ideas.Light House92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1Tel: 3914 2662Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Small retail shop is packed with ceilingand wall light fixtures, and a good selectionof desk and ceiling lamps. Most ofthe stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.Luxury Light1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh,Phu My Hung, D7For those who really want to bring atouch of luxury to their homes, thisplace deals with Italian importedlighting from the ultra - modern to thetraditional Murano style chandeliers.Extremely expensive reflecting thequality of the design and workmanship.Mosaique98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1One of the best and most diverseselections of lamps in town with everythingfrom the ordinary decorativelotus silk lamp to more inventive andoriginal designs in lacquer and silk.Treasure Light18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1Tel: 3822 4315www.treasure-light.comHigh-end lighting shop specialisingin fine lacquered lamps. Designs aresophisticated and minimilast. Wide112 Xuan ThuyWard Thao DienDistrict 2Ho Chi Minh CityTel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917shop-hcm@decosy.bizasialife HCMC 73

style for gentsScent of a manBy Brett DavisOur sense of smell is one ofthe most powerful and deeplyemotive sensations we possess.Certain fragrances canlinger with you, even if perhapsyou did not recognise it atthe time. Think about it: haveyou ever been in a room anda woman walks past and thescent of a perfume or typeof soap instantly transportsyou to another time, a girl youonce knew?Most of us have probablyexperienced this. It is worththinking then about the olfactoryimpression you are leavingon others. Will it be somethingto remember, or memorablefor all the wrong reasons?Saigon is a hot and stickytown, so regular use of deodorantsis a must. However,for more important occasionsany stylish gent should beconsidering suitable cologne.There are many options outthere and choosing a cologneis as personal and as importantas choosing a suit. It hasto fit who you are.Most colognes for men arebased on three foundationscents: citrus, sandalwoodand musk. There are almostinfinite variations on a themethough when it comes tochoosing what is right for you.Making the right decision canhave more impact in terms offirst and lasting impressionsthan a bright smile and a firmhandshake.So, how do you choose theright cologne for you? There isno hard and fast rule, but theidea that a scent should reflectyour personality is a fairly goodrule of thumb.Brighter citrus-based colognesare perfect for young,active men who want to marktheir presence. The more complexmusky or sandalwoodscents tend to be more suitablefor older men who havethe character and worldlinessto carry them off. Whateveryou decide, it should reflectthe personality you want toproject to the world.When selecting a cologneyou really have to try beforeyou buy. This means sprayingit on your skin as each person’sbody chemistry will reactwith the cologne in subtlydifferent ways.Once you have settled onsomething that suits yourstyle, don’t ruin the wholeenterprise by overdosing onyour new fragrance. Nobodywants to be enveloped in acloud of cologne, so a smallamount at the pulse pointson wrist and neck will besufficient.Finally, I know most guyslike to hoard things but there isnot much point doing this withcologne. Even unopened theessential oils will start to breakdown meaning they only havean effective shelf-life of aboutthree years.selection of table lamps, wall lamps,floor lamps and ceiling lamps.MOTORBIKESAutomotive StreetLy Thai To Street, D10 starting at DienBien Phu and running southeastServices include mending motorbikeseats and sound system installation.Products range from zebra print motorbikeseat covers to car and motorbiketyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers andsound systems by Xplode.Bike City480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7Luxury motorcycle shop carries a rangeof accessories, including apparel. SellsVemar helmets, a brand that passesrigorous European Union standards.Protec Helmets18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3American nonprofit manufacturer makeshelmets with densely compressed polystyreneshell with ABS, PVC or fiberglassexterior, available with polycarbonateshatter-proof shield. Lots of options forkids.Zeus HelmetsFounded in Taiwan to manufacture cool,comfortable helmets that meet worldwidesafety standards. Basic models featurethermo-injected shells constructed fromlightweight ABS composite with interiorslined with moisture-absorbant brushednylon. Shops selling authentic Zeushelmets are located on Pham Hong Thainear Ben Thanh Market.REAL ESTATECB Richard EllisMe Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1Tel: 3824 6125www.cbre.comInternational property consultants anddevelopers with both commercial andprivate properties for sale, lease and rent.Diamond Plaza34 Le Duan StreetTel: 3822 1922lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vnLocated in the heart of District 1, connectedto Diamond PLaza. Services1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym,swimming pool and panoramic views ofthe city.InterContinental Asiana SaigonResidencesCorner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du,D1 Tel: 3520 8888saigon@interconti.comwww.intercontinental.com/saigonresContemporary residential space in theheart of the major business and culturalarea in District 1. There are 260 one, twoor three-bedroom units plus health cluband outdoor swimming pool.NamhouseCorporation48A Tran NgocDien, Thao Dien, D2Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511www.namhouse.com.vnProvides rental properties, constructionservices and interior decorating.Supports professional services andafter-sales.Riverside Apartments53 Vo Truong Toan, D2Tel: 3744 4111www.riverside-apartments.comOne of the first luxury serviced apartmentsin town located next to the SaigonRiver set in lush tropical gardens.Savills Viet NamLevel 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 HamNghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205www.savills.com.vnSavills Viet Nam is a property serviceprovider that has been established inVietnam since 1995 offering research,advisory services, residential sales, commercialleasing, asset management, retailadvisory, valuation, investment advisoryand more.Sherwood Residence127 Pasteur St., D3Tel: 3823 2288Fax: 3823 9880Hotline: 0917470058leasing@sherwoodresidence.comwww.sherwoodresidence.comSherwood Residence is a luxury servicedapartment property and the first propertycertified by the Vietnam National Administrationof Tourism. Modern living spacesmeet prime location, comfort and classwith 5-star facilities and service.SnapTel: 0989 816 676www.snap.com.vnOnline Real Estateservice providing information on rentalproperties exclusively in District 2. Fulllistings online.RECRUITMENTHR2B / Talent Recruitment JSCThien Son Building, 5 Nguyen GiaThieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800www.hr2b.comHR consulting advises businesses onhow to improve employee productivity.The search team specializes in matchingsenior level Vietnamese professionalsand managers to top level opportunitiesin both major cities.Vietnamworks.com130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1Tel: 5404 1373www.vietnamworks.comExcellent section on advice for jobseekersfocusing on topics such as resumewriting, cover letters, interview techniqueand more.RELOCATION AGENTSAllied PickfordsSatra Building, Room 202, 58 DongKhoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vnhttp://vn.alliedpickfords.comMoving and relocating services companyspecializing in business and officemoves. Overseas and specialist moversalso available.Crown WorldwideMovers48A Huynh ManDat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127www.crownrelo.comInternational moving company servingdiplomats and private customers, employeesand expats, providing domesticand iternational transportation of household,office and industrial goods.Santa Fe RelocationServicesThien Son Building, 5Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3Tel: 3933 0065www.santaferelo.comProvides a range of services includinghome/school search, language/culturaltraining, tenancy management and immigration/visasupport.STATIONERYCustom Signage StreetLe Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh andNguyen Thai HocOffers custom-designed signs and customengraving on trophies and plaquesmade of plastic, wood, metal and glass.Pi-Channel45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253www.pi-channel.comBoutique shop carries up-market collectionsof pens and notepads, as well asdesktop organisers, clocks, calendarsand frames. Corporate services offered.74 asialife HCMC

listingsfashionACCESSORIESAccessorizeVincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton,D1www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorizeFashion-forward accessories includingnecklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops,sunglasses, hair accessories, belts andmore.Alfred DunhillDiamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1A timeless style in male luxury providingformal and casual mens accesoriestailored for the discerning man. Alsostocking handcrafted leather goods.Anupa Boutique17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 38257307anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.netThe ever-changing boutique retails inthe elegant design of anupa accessoriesmade from high-quality leather. Collectionsavailable range from men, women,executive, travel, spa, yoga, boardgames, boxes and semi-precious stonejewellery. Collection changes on weeklybasis. Also carries toys, stationery,Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlottescarves and ladies' apparel brand Thingsof Substance.BallyRex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1www.experience.bally.comFlagship store in the Rex Hotel providingluxury Italian-made accessories for men.Among these are shoes, belts, walletsand a collection of male jewellery.Banana128 Ly Tu Trong, D1Women’s accessories and more, frombags, clutches and belts to clothes andjewellery, all at reasonable prices.CartierDiamond Plaza, 34 Le DuanThis well-known designer brand displaysa wide range of accessories for men. Famousfor its watches, Cartier also stockspens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.Cincinati177P Dong Khoi, D1www.cincinati.vninfo@cincinati.vnVietnamese brand of genuine leatherbags, shoes, accessories and personalgoods for men and women such asnotebooks for a classic vagabond look.Quality leather from crocodile, horse,snake and fish made with excellent localcraftsmanship.Cleo-Pearls30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2Tel: 091 3587 690Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operatesCleo-Pearls from her home, specializingin necklaces, bracelets, earrings, keyholders and bag accessories. All piecescreated with gemstones, fresh waterpearls and beads.Coconut100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1Bags of all shapes and sizes rule theroost in this small shop. Made of silk andembroidered to the brim, these uniquebags start at about USD $30, and manyare suitable for both day and night.Creation105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429A two-storey shop selling scarves,intricate handbags (from USD $30),tailor-made silk dresses and tops. Has awide range of materials on the secondfloor. Prices start from $65 for an ao daiwith simple embroidery.Gallery vivekkevinFAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1Tel: 6291 3709info@vivekkevin.comwww.galeryvivekkevin.comHandcrafted pendants, necklaces, ringsand bracelets. The gallery’s focus is ondesign, craftsmanship and finish, as wellas educating clients on the intricacies ofeach piece.Gucci88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688Located on the main shopping street inHCMC, this flagship store brings Florentinefashion to an array of luxury leathergoods such as briefcases, luggage anda selection of men’s shoes for office ormore casual occasions.Ipa-Nima71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 365277 Dong Khoi, D1Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyerturned designer who produces eclecticand eye-catching handbags. Also stockscostume jewellery and shoes.J. Silver803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7Tel: 5411 1188Make a statement without being ostentatiouswith handcrafted silver jewelleryfrom the boutique store. Expect big,interesting pieces that are simple yetglamorous.Laura V Signature11 Dong Du, D1Tel: 7304 4126www.laurav.netVintage designs aplenty with everythingfrom jewellery and hair accessories tofunky styled sunglasses, umbrellas andcolourful maxi dresses.Louis VuittonOpera View, corner of Dong Khoi andLe Loi Tel: 3827 6318Designer brand name housing traditionalcraftsmanship of luxury leather goods formen and women. An array of bags, wallets,cuff links and watches are available.Mai O Mai4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007A superb little place with beautiful jewelleryand accessories to suit all budgets.Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings andmore in both classic and imaginativedesigns, as well as gorgeous handembroideredbags.Mont BlancDiamond Plaza, 34 Le DuanNotable for fine writing instruments, MontBlanc also houses cuff links and othermale accessoriesRimowa StoreOperaView Tower, 161 Dong Khoi, D1Tel: 3832 6941hotline@rimowavietnam.comRimowa is one of the leading manufacturesof luggage in Europe. Itsemphasis on quality, function and designand its Made in Germany labelhas lead to huge successes throughoutmany countries around the world.ScorpionVincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le ThanhTon, D1 Tel: 3993 9889www.scorpionbag.comSelling high-end leather products forboth men and women, including shoes,handbags, belts and other accessories.

femme fashionFeatures a variety of leather in brightcolors and styles.Tic Tac Watch Shop72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519www.tictacwatch.comElegant show room displaying someof the world’s most recognized Swissbrands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume& Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-sitewatch repair service and complementarywatch evaluation available. Also carries asmall collection of vintage Rolexes.and sneakers at mid-range prices.RunwayVincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3993 9988runway.sg@global-fashion.vnMassive and minimalist design-led interiorlets ultra high-end designer garmentsstand out. Carries men's, women's andchildren’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessoriesalong with home décor. Brandsinclude Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga,Sergio Rossi and Eres.Skimpy GirlsBy Khoi NguyenIs it just me or are youngSaigonese girls dressing andlooking more like prostituteslately? Everywhere I go I can’tseem to escape the sight ofreally young girls going all-outsexy for the sake of beingsexy. It’s like we’ve beentaken over by aliens fromplanet Hooker and they’ve raygunned all our girls into bighaired, heavy makeup andcheap stiletto wearing LatoyaJacksons.Where is this trend comingfrom? Has Herve Leger’s bandagedresses finally hit our cityor are professional shampoogirls down at Le Duyen anddodgy karaoke bar hostessesbecoming the new trendsettersfor the young and well offof Ho Chi Minh?It’s almost an epidemic. Yousee it on the back of scootersall around town, at Lavish,around Ben Thanh, even asfar as Dong Khoi. Sitting atCoffee Bean one lovely, breezyevening I noticed two girls,barely legal, with dresses soshort they couldn’t even crosstheir legs and had to use theircarry-on sized handbags tocover up what could’ve beenBritney-like wardrobe malfunctions.The sleuth in me imaginedthey were hiding theirschool uniforms in those bagsand switch outfits before theyget home to their unknowingparents.Skimpy dresses aside,another big fashion faux pasof late is the visible underweargarment trend. I’m nottalking the panty line or brastrap but the whole bra. Forsome unexplained reason, thebright fluoro bra underneatha sheer blouse look seemsto also be making its markrecently. Have the nouveauriche gotten bored of flauntingLV and Mercedes and takento flaunting skin? I don’t mindthe look if you have Rihanna’sbody, but if you don’t, keepyour jelly to yourself girlfriends.Whatever happened tothe vintage Indochine stylethat was everywhere a fewmonths back? Though thelook was shapeless, it waselegant and referential to animportant bygone era thatmade us what we are today.Young ladies who chose todress that way showed us thedepth in their fashion choiceand how they wanted to projectthemselves as individuals.Making conscious fashionchoices needs a bit of maturity,and god only knows Idressed like a fool when I wasyoung. More and more attractiveyoung girls enter Saigon’sscene each day and withsuch a huge influence comingfrom America my only wish isthey’ll be more Chloe Sevignywannabes than Megan Fox.Tombo145 Dong Khoi, D1Of all the embroidered and sequinedbags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka”shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi,this shop’s has products that are prettierthan most. Shoes can be custom-madeand the sales staff is friendly.Umbrella35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1Tel: 6276 2730www.umbrella-fashion.comSophisticated boutique showcasinga diverse range of imported women’saccessories. Also houses women’s garmentsfrom office wear to cocktail andparty creations.ACTIVE WEARRoxy and QuiksilverParkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1The original active living and extremesports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver productscombine form and function. Choosefrom outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.TBS Sports Centre102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanThis store stocks a range of good sportsclothes and equipment from big namebrands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco,Nike and Converse.VolcomDiamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brandfrom America. Lots of tank tops, minisand shorts for day tripping with girlfriendsor lazing on the beach.READY TO WEARunisexBAM Skate Shop174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826In addition to a range of decks, wheelsand trucks, this small shop is stockedwith bookbags, skate sneakers, trackjackets and t-shirts emblazoned withyour skateboard company of choice.FCUK127 Le Thanh Ton, D1Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3914 7740www.frenchconnection.comTrendy UK brand with a selection offashion-forward dresses for women andsmart workwear and funky casual wearfor men, all at middle-market prices.L’Usine151/1 Dong Khoi, D1Lifestyle store and cafe housed in aperiod building restored to evoke theaesthetic of an early 20th-centurygarment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequentlyrefreshed line of imported men’sand women’s fashion, including T-shirtsand footwear, and a range of uniqueaccessories. Entrance via the street-levelArt Arcade.ReplayVincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1116 Nguyen Trai, D1187 Hai Ba Trung, D3Tel: 3925 0252Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denimfor teens and university-age men andwomen. Carries boots, sandals, pumpsVersace26 Dong KhoiDesigner brand in men’s formal wear.Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirtsas well as an array of men’s accessories.Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.menLucas69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670Fashion store housing contemporarydesigns in casual, office and eveningwear imported from Hong Kong.Massimo Ferrari42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3Tel: 3930 6212Bespoke menswear shop also boastsits own brand of contemporary preppyattire tailored for the tropics. Carries aline of European-quality shoes, bags andaccessories designed in-house, as wellas exclusive Orobianco unisex bags,designer fragrances and eyewear.Mattre19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412This local men’s clothes shop has somefunky tops and jeans for more fashionforwardmales. Apparel in sizes that fitthe typical Western man’s frame areoften available. Another store is locatedon Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu TrongMilanoSheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoiwww.milanogoods.comA conjoining shop with D&G offering aselection of men’s shoes and accessorieswith a sideline in women’s clothing.D&G provides a collection of menswear,from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquelydesigned suit jackets.TimberlandParkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1Sells everything the brand is knownfor, from heavy-duty boots to tops andtrousers that are both smart and casual.The emphasis is on muted tones andunobtrusive logos for men who don’t liketo show off.womenAxaraVincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le ThanhTon, D1Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D121 Nguyen Trai, D1Tel: 3993 9399www.axara.comCarries women’s clothing suitable forwork, weekends or evening. Luxuriousfabrics and simple cuts and styles all atreasonable prices. Also carries handbagsand accessories.BalenciagaRex Hotel, 155 Nguyen HueTel: 6291 3572Sporting modern shapes and elegantitems crafted from natural, raw andartificial materials.BCBGMAXAZRIAVincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1American brand sells women’s daydresses and tops, evening gowns andwear-to-work attire in many prints andcolours. Also carries a small selection ofaccessories, sunglasses and watches.BebeSaigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D176 asialife HCMC

Tel: 3914 4011www.bebe.comAn international brand that specializesin contemporary, modern tees and sexy,elegant dresse, tops and party attire.ChloeRex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1Tel: 6291 3582Parisian-influenced fashion housespecializes in simple, traditional designswith a feminine and fashionable twist.Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array ofaccessories are on display.Gaya1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 39251495Carries a range of couture and pret-aportergarments and silk and organzadresses in vibrant colours created byCambodia-based designer RomydaKeth.Geisha Boutique85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004enquiry@geishaclothing.comFacebook: Geisha BoutiqueAustralian fashion label offering a contemporaryrange of casual and eveningwear with an Asian influence. Printedtees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summerscarves, dresses, silk camisolesand satin maxi dresses.KookaiSaigon Centre, 65 Le LoiFrench brand stocking classic, feminine,styles with a twist. Gypsy day dressesand classic little black dresses at midtohigh-range prices are perfect fortwenty- and thirty-something women.La Senza47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1Tel: 3925 170065 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1Tel: 3914 4328www.lasenza.comBoutique carrying a wide range of bras,panties, pyjamas, accessories andlounge wear.Mango96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton,D1A favourite with fashion-consciouswomen, this mid-range store stocksclothes from simple tees and jeans toevening wear.Marc JacobsRex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1Tel: 6291 3580This spacious shop with high-ceilingscarries up-market clothes, shoes andaccessories from the internationallyrecognized designer brand.SongSaigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D176D Le Thanh TonOffers women’s fashion designs byValerie Gregori McKenzie, includingevening dress, tops and hats.ValencianiSaigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Tel: 3821 278866-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688valenciani.sg@gmail.comwww.valenciani.comHomegrown luxury boutique carries silkdresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawlsand a range of accessories, all designedin-house.SHOESCharles & Keith10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen TraiTel: 3925 1132Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton,D1www.charleskeith.comSingapore brand housing youthful andtrendy shoes of a contemporary, highfashion design.Converse186 Hai Ba Trung, D1148 Nguyen Trai, D1122 Ba Thang Hai, D10Tel: 3827 5584www.converse.com.vnSells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcelland All-Star sneakers and Conversebrand clothing and accessories. Also atdepartment stores around HCMC.Dr. Marten’s173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710Air Wair sandals and shoes here featurethe classic yellow stitching and chunkyrubber soles. Also stocked with clothesand accessories by Replay and Kappatracksuit tops.Sergio Rossi146AB Pasteur, D1Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1World-renowned Italian brand stocks adiverse European-style collection of upmarketshoes and bags made of qualitymaterials, from crocodile and pythonskin laterals to garnishings of Swarovskicrystals and colourful beads.TAILORSDieu Thanh140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851www.dieuthanh.comExperienced tailor shop specializes inswimwear and cotton clothing, as wellas business suits, evening dresses,luxury fabrics and accessories.Massimo Ferrari42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3Tel: 3930 6212Traditional Italian sartorial techniquesare employed to offer a full wardrobingservice and custom tailoring for men.Stocked with imported fabrics primarilyfrom Italy. In-office and workplace fittingsavailable.LINH‘S WHITEPLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM37 THAO DIEN(OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET)67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2PHONE: (84) - 62819863- 62818488E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn - www.linhfurniture.comasialife HCMC 77

Rimowa EventPhotos by Alex McMillan.78 asialife HCMC

DJ Alex Millan EventAshes Cricket at RMITasialife HCMC 79

Street Guide3 Thang 2 D1Alexandre de RhodesC4Ba Huyen Thanh Quan C1, C2, D2, D3Ban CoD1Ben Chuong DuongE4Ben Van DonE4, E5Bui Thi XuanD3Bui VienE3Cach Mang Thang Tam C1, D2, D3CalmetteE4Cao Ba NhaE3Cao ThangD1, D2, E2Chu Manh TrinhC4, C5Co BacE3Co GiangE3De ThamE3Dien Bien Phu B4, C3, C2, D1, D2Dinh Cong TrangB3Dinh Tien HoangB3, B4, C4Do Quang DauE3Do ThanhD1Doan Nhu HaiE5Doan Van BoE4, E5Dong DuD5Dong KhoiC4, D4, D5Hai CuaB5Huynh Tinh CuaB2Huynh Van BanhB1Khanh HoiE4Ky ConB3, C3, C4, D5Hai TrieuC5Ham NghiD4, C5Han ThuyenC4Ho Hao HonE3Ho Huan NghiepD5Ho Tung MauD4, D5Ho Xuan HuongC3, D2Hoa HungB1Hoang DieuE4, E5Hung VuongE1Huyen Tran Cong ChuaD3Huynh Man DatB5Huynh Thuc KhangD4Ky DongC1, C2Le Cong KieuD4Le DuanC4, C5Le Hong PhongD1Le LaiC3, C4, D3Le LoiD4Le Quoc HungE4, E5Le Quy DonC3Le Thanh Ton C4, C5, D3, D4Le Thi Hong Gam D4, E3, E4Le Thi RiengD3Le Van PhucB3Le Van SyC1, C2Luong Huu KhanhD2, E2Luu Van LangD4Ly Chinh ThangB2, C2Ly Thai ToE1Ly Tu Trong C4, C5, D4, D5Mac Dinh ChiB3, C4Mac Thi BuoiD5Mai Thi LuuB4Mai Van NgocB1Me LinhB5Nam Ky Khoi Nghia B2, C2, C3, D4, E4Ngo Duc KeD5Ngo Thoi NhiemC2, D2Ngo Van NamC5Nguyen Binh Khiem B4, B5, C5Nguyen Cong TruE4Nguyen Cu TrinhE2, E3Nguyen Dinh Chieu B4, C3, C4, D1, D2, D3Nguyen Dinh ChinhB180 asialife HCMCNguyen DuNguyen Hai TuNguyen HueNguyen Huu CanhNguyen Huu CanhNguyen Huu CauNguyen Khac NhuNguyen KhoaiNguyen Ngoc PhuongNguyen Phi KhanhNguyen SieuNguyen Son HaNguyen Tat ThanhNguyen Thai BinhNguyen Thai HocNguyen Thi DieuNguyen Thien ThuatNguyen ThongNguyen Thuong HienNguyen TraiNguyen Trung NganNguyen Trung TrucNguyen Truong ToNguyen Van CuNguyen Van HaiNguyen Van LacNguyen Van ThuNguyen Van TroiPasteurPham Hong ThaiPham Ngoc ThachPham Ngu LaoPham Viet ChanhPham Viet ChanhPhan Dinh PhungPhan Ke BinhPhan Van HanPho Duc ChinhPhung Khac KhoanSuong Nguyet AnhTan VinhThach Thi ThanhThai Van LungThi SachThu Khoa HuanTon Duc ThangTon That DamTon That ThiepTon That TungTran Binh TrongTran Canh ChanTran Cao VanTran Dinh XuTran Hung DaoTran Khac ChanTran Khanh DuTran Minh QuyenTran Minh QuyenTran Nhan TonTran Nhat DuatTran PhuTran Quang DieuTran Quang KhaiTran Quoc ThaoTran Quoc ToanTran Van DangTruong ChinhTruong DinhTu XuongVinh KhanhVo Thi SauVo Van TanVuon ChuoiXo Viet Nghe TinhYersinC4, D3, D4B4D4, D5B2C5B3E3F3B5B3C5, D5D2E5D4, E4D3, E3, E4D2, D3D1, E1, E2C1, C2, D2D2D3, E2C5D4E4, E5E2B3B5B4, C3, C4B1C2, C3, C4, D4D2, D3C3D3, D4, E3B5E2B2B4B4, B5D4, E4C3, C4D2, D3E4B3C5C5D4C5, D4, D5, E4D4D4D2, D3E1E2C4E2, E3D4, E2, E3B3B2, B3D1C1E1B3E1B1, B2B3, B2C2, C3B2, B3, B2C1, C2C3C2, D3C2, C3, D2E4, E5B3, C2, C3C3, D2, D3D2B4, B5E4AAirport3kmBTran Van DangCTan Binh0.5kmHoa HungDistrict 112kmTran Minh QuyenTran Nhan TonHuynh Van BanhTran Minh QuyenDien Bien PhuLe Hong PhongSaigonTrain StationLan AnhSports &Leisure ClubLy Thai ToTran Quang DieuTran Quang DieuHung VuongNguyen Van TroiCach Mang Thang Tam3 Thang 2Ban CoNguyen Th ongNguyen Thien ThuatTran Binh TrongNg Dinh ChinhTran PhuLe Van SyTran Minh QuyenDISTRICT 10DE1PHU NHUANAn Duong VuongTran Van DangCao ThangDo ThanhDISTRICT 5Huyn h Van BanhKy DongUniversityof NaturalSciencesVNg. Thuong. ChuoiNguyen Van CuTeacherTrainingUniversityLy Chinh T hangHienVuonChuoiMarketNguyen Trai2Phan Dinh PhungTruong DinhTu XuongNam Ky KhVo Thi SauNguyen Son HaDien BNguyen Thi Minh KPham Viet ChanhNguyen ThoNguyen DinhVDISTR

Ky Khoi Nghia Nam Ky Khoi NghiaTranSau Vo Thi SauDien Bien Phuyen Thongen Dinh ChieuMinh KhaiNguyen Van NguyenNguyen TraiTran Khanh DuHuynh Tinh CuaN. V. HaiQuoc ToanTran Quoc ToanBa Huyen Thanh QuanNgo Thoi NhiemLuong Huu KhanhSuong Nguyet AnhTon That TungThai BinhMarketCong QuynhTran Dinh XuWarRemnantsMuseumCultural ParkCach Mang Thang TamCao Ba NhaNg. Huu CauLe Thi RiengNguyen TraiDo Q. DauLe LaiThach Thi ThanhD. C. TrangVo Van Tan Vo Van TanCao ThangHo Xuan HuongRICT 14th Floor ONG&ONG Building159 Phan Xich Long StWard 7, Phu Nhuan DistrictCu LaoTran Nhat DuatNguyen Thi DieuHai Ba TrungTran Quoc ThaoBui Thi XuanNguyen Cu TrinhTran Khac ChanDISTRICT 3Nguyen Gia ThieuLe Quy DonPham Ngu LaoHo H. Hon3Phan Xich LongTruong QuyenBui VienCo BacTran Quang KhaiLe Van TamParkPham Ngoc ThachPasteurTruong DinhVo Huy TanRe-unificationPalaceHuyen Tran Cong ChuaNguyen Thai HocDe ThamNg Kh NhuNg. Phi KhanhL. V. PhucCo GiangThu Kh HuanPham Hong ThaiDe ThamTran Hung Dao Tran Hung DaoDinh Tien HoangLy Tu TrongGia DinhHospitalNg Hai TuNguyen Van ThuAlexandre De RhodesNguyen DuNguyen An NinhLe Thi Hong GamMac Dinh ChiNguyen Dinh ChieuTran Cao VanBenThanhMarketBusStationCentralPost OfficeLe LoiNguyen Binh KhiemHoa LuStadiumDinh Tien HoangHai Ba TrungTown HallHTVtelevisionLe Duan Le DuanPasteurNguyen Trung TrucKy ConPhan Ke BinhNguyen Thai BinhYersinHan ThuyenL. V. LangNg. Cong Tru4Mai Thi LuuDong KhoiLe Cong KieuPho Duc ChinhCalmetteBen Van DonBINH THANHNguyen DuHoang SaHam NghiLe LoiTon Th at ThiepT. T. DamXo Viet Nghe TinhChu Manh TrinhLy Tu TrongNguyen HueTon Duc ThangThi SachLe Quoc HungMacThai Van LungDong DuNgoNg SieuCao Ba QuatPham Van HanLe Thanh Ton Le Thanh TonPasteurTruong SaDISTRICT 1Huynh Thuc KhangVinh KhanhHoang DieuHo Tung MauNg. Cong TruNguyenTrung NganNg Truong ToHai TrieuZoo & BotanicalGardensNguyen Binh KhiemPhan Van DatThi BuoiH.H.NghiepDuc KeDoan Nhu HaiDoan Van BoNgo VDISTRICT 4an NamNguyen Tat Thanh5Nguyen Cuu VanNguyen Ngoc PhuongNguyen Huu CanhTon DucThang MuseumThu ThiemFerry Port(for District 2)HCM CityBoat Quay(for Vung Tau)asialife HCMC 81Huynh Tinh CuaHuynh Man DatSaigon Bridge& Highway 13kmCat Lai Ferry9kmDistrict 7& Nha BeNguyen Van LacMe LinhVung Tau

Membership forthe FITTER youExercise your options – be it for yourself,your family or your company.Tone up with our benefit pack and wind downwith the free use of our swimming pool facilitiesMui Ne Beach, Km 10, Ham Tien WardPhan Thiet City, VietnamTel: (+84 62) 3741 888Fax: (+84 62) 3741 555reception.amui@anantara.comwww.anantara.comA member of small luxury hotelThailand Indonesia Maldives United Arab Emirates

oxofficeThis Means WarSafeJohn CarterImmortalsWritten by Timothy Dowling(Role Models) and SimonKinberg (Sherlock Holmes) comesa new romantic comedy actionfilm about the world's deadliestCIA operatives who areinseparable partners and bestfriends. That is until one daythey find out they have fallenfor the same woman. Havingonce helped bring down entireenemy nations, they are nowemploying their incomparableskills and an endless array ofhigh-tech gadgetry against theirgreatest nemesis ever, eachother. An epic, but funny, battlesoon engulfs the love triangle.From director McG, the moviestars Reese Witherspoon, ChrisPine and Tom Hardy.When Luke Wright, a secondratecage fighter on the mixedmartial arts circuit, blowsa rigged fight, the RussianMafia murders his familyand banishes him from hislife forever, leaving Luke towander the streets of NewYork destitute, haunted byguilt, and tormented by theknowledge that he will alwaysbe watched, and anyone hedevelops a relationship withwill also be killed. But whenhe witnesses a frightened12-year-old Chinese girl, Mei,being pursued by the samegangsters who killed his wife,Luke impulsively jumps to actionand straight into the heartof a deadly high-stakes war.From filmmaker AndrewStanton comes John Carter, asweeping action-adventure seton the mysterious and exoticplanet of Barsoom (Mars). Thefilm tells the story of war-weary,former military captain JohnCarter (Taylor Kitsch), whois inexplicably transported toMars where he becomes reluctantlyembroiled in a conflictof epic proportions amongstthe inhabitants of the planet,including Tars Tarkas (WillemDafoe) and the captivating PrincessDejah Thoris (Lynn Collins).In a world on the brink ofcollapse, Carter rediscovers hishumanity when he realizes thatthe survival of Barsoom and itspeople rests in his hands.Director Tarsem Singh’s latestaction film tells the story of thebrutal and bloodthirsty KingHyperion (Mickey Rourke)and his army rampagingacross Greece in search of thelong lost Bow of Epirus. Withthe invincible Bow, the kingwill be able to overthrow theGods of Olympus and becomethe undisputed master of hisworld. As village after villageis obliterated, a stonemasonnamed Theseus vows to avengethe death of his mother in oneof Hyperion's raids. With thehelp of an orracle, Theseus assemblesa small band of followersand embraces his destiny ina final desperate battle for thefuture of humanity.Opening DatesCINEMAST: Thang Longwww.saigonmedia.com.vnJohn Carter (March 9)Immortals (March 23)The information on this page wascorrect at the time of printing. Checkcinema websites for screenings.M: Megastar Cinemawww.megastarmedia.netThis means War (February 3)Safe (March 16)84 asialife HCMC

ookshelfBehind the BeautifulForeversKatherine BooRandom HouseThe Oscar-winning film Slumdog Millionaire introducedaudiences to a particular vision of Mumbai’s slums. Inher first book, journalist Katherine Boo takes a closerlook at the lives lived in the Annawadi slum, located nearMumbai airport and home to nearly 3,000 residents. Examining‘Life, Death, and Hope in a Mumbai Undercity’,as the subtitle states, Boo draws upon visits to Annawadiover four years. Set against the backdrop of economicallyliberalising India, the life stories included contend withthe everyday struggles of some of the country’s poorestpeople. No Hollywood - or Bollywood - version, Boo’s accountattempts to subvert clichés and raise vital questions.Bringing Up BébéPamela DruckermanPenguin PressAs an American in Paris, journalist Pamela Druckermaninvestigates French child-rearing techniques in BringingUp Bébé. Why are French kids - compared to morerambunctious children in the US - so well behaved? Thesecret seems to be in treating children as rational beings.Providing contrast to stories of her own children’sdifficult antics, Druckerman presents anecdotes of howFrench parents teach their children to adjust to adultschedules and behaviours. The very essence of stereotypicalFrenchness - self-control, moderation and refinement -is thus instilled in children from an early age, whether atthe dinner table, in the bedroom or on the playground.American DervishAyad AkhtarLittle, Brown & CompanyAyad Akhtar’s debut novel tells the story of Hayat Shah,a young Pakistani American man growing up in theMidwest during the 1980s. Hayat grapples with navigatingadolescence and finding his place in American society,while also exploring his Muslim faith. With largely secularparents, Shah grows more interested in Islam with thearrival of his mother’s best friend from Pakistan. As MinaAli, beautiful and vivacious as she is spiritual, draws himmore into Islam, Hayat also starts to develop complicatedfeelings towards her. With careful nuance, Akhtar addressesthemes of religion, love and societal tensions.What We Talk AboutWhen We Talk AboutAnne FrankNathan EnglanderAlfred A. KnopfIf you take your comedy black, then pour yourself someof Nathan Englander’s writing. His second collection ofshort stories, with reference in its title piece to RaymondCarver’s What We Talk About When We Talk About Love,considers what it means to be Jewish in modern times. Thestories infuse darkness and humour in both common andunusual situations, spanning settings in the US and Israel.Englander’s work draws comparison to Woody Allen andIsaac Bashevis Singer, ultimately revealing insights notonly into the Jewish experience, but also regarding life andall its complexities in general.asialife HCMC 85

soundfixalbum reviewby Mai Lynn Miller NguyenFirst Aid KitThe Lion’s RoarChairliftSomethingSchoolboy QHabits &ContradictionsLana Del ReyBorn to Die“Stockholm’s cold but I’ve beentold I was born to endure thiskind of weather,” sings KlaraSöderberg of First Aid Kit inEmmylou, sounding more out ofAmerica’s heartland than Scandinavia.This is no coincidence.After all, this is the era of greaterglobalisation of musical genres,and the country-loving Swedesrecorded their second albumin Nebraska. Neither Klara norsister Johanna may quite be thenext Emmylou Harris, but theircombination of Nordic etherealnesswith bittersweet lyrics andpastoral folk harmonies makesfor a mesmerising album. Fortwo girls aged 19 and 22, thismusic is wise beyond theiryears. On King of the World,Bright Eyes singer ConorOberst makes an appearance.His broken yearning voice fitsin smoothly with the sisters’vocals, rising to a joyful cherryon-topgrand finale.Bruises, the lead single ofBrooklyn-based duo Chairlift’s2008 debut full-length, was oneof this past decade’s electronicpop standouts. CarolinePolachek’s wistful voice layeredover Patrick Wimberly’sbuoyant beat made for onehelluva catchy tune. The barwas set high for the follow-upalbum, but rather than recreatewhat worked before, Chairliftattempts to show growth. Theresult is a record that’s morecohesive and mature than theprior effort, perhaps not asintoxicating but overall moreconsistently enjoyable. Amanaemonesiais the best comparisonto ‘Bruises’ for its perky,dance-worthy 1980s-esque beat,but by no means as memorable.Instead, it’s the slower, moreseductive tracks like Guilty AsCharged and Ghost Tonight thatcarry the album, highlightingPolachek’s unique vocal range.Over the past year, there’s beenno shortage of young rappersentering the game. SchoolboyQ comes on the tails of A$APRocky and Tyler the Creator,part of a growing movementof straightforward, woozybeat-driven hip-hop. Jay-Zmay still dominate from hisNYC headquarters, but WestCoast hip-hop is worth keepingan eye on. The rise of theLA-based, N.W.A.-influencedBlack Hippy crew – whichalso includes up-and-comerKendrick Lamar – is reasonenough. Member Schoolboy Q’ssolid second full-length makesa definite push for Westside.Coloured with ruminationsand pointed popular culturalreferences (Sexting is the nameof one track), his world-weary,navel-gazing brand of rappingis part of a shift that’s lessabout showing off and moreabout chilling out.Love her or hate her, youcan’t avoid her. The mostcontroversial figure in indiepop at present, Lana Del Reyhas already both performedat and been mocked onSaturday Night Live. Much ofthe public discourse centreson whether or not her alluringlyplump lips are siliconinjected.But despite all theflak, there’s a reason why herhomemade video for VideoGames went viral. In an ageobsessed by vintage style,Lana – whose dress, videosand attitude draw heavilyfrom the 40s, 50s and 60s – isa perfect star. Then there’sher voice itself, with its soft,sultry bedroom quality. Withthat whole naughty but still agood girl attitude, she singssugary lyrics like, “now mylife is sweet like cinnamon”,but then drops the f-bomb inthe next line.86 asialife HCMC

xoneFM top tenOfficial xoneFM Vietnam Top 10this last title artistweek weekendorsed123456789103121074New685I Won't Give UpOursMirrorBetter Than I KnowMyselfHeavy Metal LoverSet You FreeLatteThe FighterBridge of LightJust a KissJason MrazTaylor SwiftLil Wayne feat BrunoMarsAdam LambertLady Gaga3oh3Madonna feat JustinTimberlakeGym Class Heroes featRyan TedderPinkLady AntebelumUS Top 10this last title artistweek week12345678910152346712910Set Fire to the RainStrongerThe One That GotAwayIt Will RainNot Over YouWe Found LoveParadiseDrive ByMoves Like JaggerHeartbeatUK Top 10this last title artistweek week12345678910NewNew126453267Hot Right NowNext to MeSomebody That IUsed to KnowTitaniumWild OnesDominoAlone AgainT.H.E (The HardestEver)One ThingTwilightAdeleKelly ClarksonKaty PerryBruno MarsGavin DegrawRihanna feat CalvinHarrisColdplayTrainMaroon 5 feat ChristinaAguileraFrayDJ Fresh feat Rita OraEmeli SandeGotye feat KimbraDavid Guetta feat SiaFlo Rida feat SiaJessie JAlyssa Reid feat JumpSmokersWill I Am/Jagger/LopezOne DirectionCover DriveThe Hunger GamesBy Michael TatarskiAlthough I usually try to avoidthe 'Young Adult' book genre,one trilogy recently endedup in my hands and had meinstantly hooked.The Hunger Games, publishedin 2008 and written bySuzanne Collins, is the firstof three books in the series.The story is set in a futuristiccountry called Panem, locatedin a post-apocalyptic NorthAmerica. Panem is ruled bythe Capitol, which sits atthe centre of 12 surroundingdistricts, each of which isassigned a certain industry.The decadent Capitol controlsnearly everything that goes onin the poor, desolate districtsthrough technology and, whennecessary, blunt force.Each year, as punishmentfor a rebellion initiated by thedistricts 74 years before thestart of the book, each regionmust send two tributes – onemale, one female – to theCapitol for the Hunger Games.The 24 tributes are placed ina specially-built arena, overwhich the Capitol’s 'gamemakers'have complete control,and are forced to fight to thedeath. The last one standing isrewarded with lavish gifts.The Hunger Games is toldin the first person through thepoint of view of a 16-year-oldgirl named Katniss Everdeen,who ends up being District12’s female tribute. Animportant part of the storyis the triangular relationshipbetween Katniss and her bestfriend, Gale Hawthorne, andher fellow district tribute, PeetaMellark. Fortunately Collinsavoids the sappy romance ofthe Twilight series and focusesinstead on how the HungerGames and the fraught relationshipbetween the Capitoland the unhappy districtsimpact the main characters.Not that I’ve read Twilight.Seriously, I haven’t.While the book won’t winany awards for outstandingprose, it is a gripping read,not to mention brutally violent.Once the Hunger Gamesstart it is simply impossible toput down, as the vivid actionmakes for edge-of-your-seatreading.The second book in TheHunger Games trilogy is calledCatching Fire, and the thirdMockingjay, a title that willmake sense once you read it.I won’t go into detail on theplots of these books since itwould be hard to avoid givinganything away, but suffice tosay they are just as thrilling,and even more violent, thanThe Hunger Games.With a movie adaptationcoming out in March, now isthe time to read this series.Fortunately it only takes a fewdays to finish all three books.They’re just that exciting.asialife HCMC 87

KeepingTabsTabitha Carvan learns the hard way that whathappens in Vietnam should stay in Vietnam.There are some topics that youjust shouldn’t talk about withpeople back home.But I’m not talking aboutthe things they just don’t ‘get’,because your experience here inVietnam is so exotic and unique.I’m talking about the thingsthat make you look bad.For example, I challenge youto complain about your maidto someone living a maidlessexistence in your home countryand not come off looking really,really terrible.I’m serious about that challenge.I thought I had a free passwhen we found out our maidwas stealing from us, whichyou’d think is a pretty legitreason to complain. But it turnsout, no. That high-and-mightyjudginess, with a dash of youwere-asking-for-it,came acrossloud and clear in discussionswith friends at home. And thiswas on Gmail chat.Meanwhile, when I told thestory to any of my friends herein Vietnam, their response wasalways the same: a panickedlook and the words, “I wonderif my maid is stealing from metoo.”I know about how to look badto people back home, because Ibrought it upon myself in quitea public way. I got a gig with anAustralian publication writingabout my life as an expat fortheir Australian audience, mostof whom probably haven’t beento Vietnam before.To understand what happenednext, you have to try toremember what you were likebefore you moved to Vietnam.Me, I was a big-hearted, openminded,politically-correctcultural relativist who believedwe were all just citizens of theworld.Surprise, surprise, my ‘It’s ASmall World After All’ outlookchanged after I got here. It’skind of hard to be blind to culturaldifferences when they’reknocking you over the headand telling you what a big noseyou have every day. And in fact,the differences are what makeliving here so rewarding, right?There’s a lot of wonder and joy,and yes, frustration, to be had inbeing a fish out of water.But what do big-hearted,open-minded, politically-correctcultural relativists like myformer self think of people whohighlight such difference? That’sright, they think they’re racists.And so, you know exactlywhat happened. I wrotea colourful column about theVietnamese-style street partymy partner and I held for ourwedding here, complete withballoon arch, champagnepyramid, polystyrene cakeand thumping nineties techno.You know and I know this isawesome. I also wrote abouthow this street party happenedto coincide with our street’sbiannual cockfighting tournament,which was less awesome,but it was a nice example ofone of those ‘Only in Vietnam!’moments, which happen a lotmore frequently than a biannualcockfighting tournament.It didn’t take long beforeI was accused by readers ofpainting a derisive and derogatorypicture of Vietnam. If youGoogled ‘racist’ you’d probablyfind a picture of me.I didn’t make one negativejudgement about Vietnam inthat article. After all, it wasabout my wedding, which wasone of the greatest days of mylife. I didn’t even condemn thecockfighting, which has probablylanded me on some kind ofPETA blacklist. But to the peopleback home, if you’re even justtalking about a polystyrenewedding cake or cockfightingpunters weeing on your weddingtent, it sounds like you’rejudging.There’s a lot about living inan expat community that I don’tlike. There are a lot of whingersand there are – yes, indeedy – alot of bonafide, out-and-out racistshere too. I find them just asdespicable now as I did before Imoved here.But the expat communityserves a really important purpose.It’s a forum where a bunchof strangers in a strange landcan talk to each other about thenew surroundings they’re in,their complex feelings, and thegood days and the bad daysthey have here, without it beingso loaded, and without everystatement assumed to be a valuejudgement. Just don’t try this athome.To read more from Tabitha visitthecitrthatneversleepsin.com.88 asialife HCMC

THE TWO OF USA recently married American and Vietnamese couple tell their story of howa random run-in led to marriage. Photo by Chris Mueller.AndrewQueI had been in Vietnam foralmost six months and hadn’tdated very much at all. Myroommate, however, wasquite the ladies man and keptencouraging me to do somethingto get out of my cloud ofsolitariness. I noticed he useda dating site and was alwayschatting. I told him I wasn’treally interested in that butfinally agreed to try it.Que was the first person tocontact me. She was very niceand we shared a few emails.Then she said she didn’t thinkwe could really have a goodconversation so we stoppedtalking and kind of forgotabout each other.Later I went on a date withanother girl but it was kind ofa dud. Afterward, she said weshould go dancing with friendssometime. Eventually I tookher up on it.I was dancing with her andher friends for about an hourwhen Que showed up to meetthem. I recognized her, but shedidn’t recognize me. After, weall went out to a noodle shopand I noticed that I was moreinterested in Que then the othergirls. Later my friend askedme how my evening went andI said without thinking that Ithought Que was ‘marriagematerial’. He kind of stoppedme and told me I should thinkabout that. Then Que and Ipicked up our email exchangesagain and eventually startedgoing out.I didn’t recognize him at firstat the club and thought he wasjust a nice, skinny guy. Butafter that night we started totalk again and go out. Soon afterwe began dating, I noticedthat he was very patient. Oncewe had a flat tyre close to myhouse and it was raining reallyhard and traffic was stoppedbecause there was a big hole inthe road, but he was still verypatient and enjoyed the wholescene.After dating for a while,he went back to the US for aweek to spend Christmas withhis family. He came back onNew Year's Eve and I pickedhim up at the airport and hesaid he had something forme. I thought it would justbe some gifts from the US, butthe first thing he did when wehad arrived home was takeout the ring and ask me tomarry him.I honestly wasn’t expectingit because we had only metabout two months before.But I was so happy and Irecognized that he was anhonest, smart and good manand had the same ideas aboutlife as me, so I said yes. Thenwe went up to the balcony towatch the fireworks.Sometimes we argue, butwe always try to understandeach other. Maybe now wewill travel to other countriesand have talked about livingin Dubai. I hope to have kids,maybe in a few years.asialife HCMC 89

pub quizMarch1) On what date is the Ides ofMarch?2) The March Hare is a charactermost famous for appearing inthe tea party scene in whichclassic?3) Which saint’s day falls on theFirst of March?4) Where did the Long Marchstart in 1934?5) Which American composerand conductor is known as“The March King”?The Lion’s Share6) What name is given to a groupof lions?7) Which car company'sadvertising slogan is "TheLion Goes From Strength toStrength"?8) In the Old Testament who wasthrown into a lion's den andsurvived?9) Which female singer releasedthe album Lionheart in 1978?10) What was the name of the lionin C. S. Lewis's Narnia?Russian Roulette11) What is Russia's nationalairline called?12) Which stretch of waterseparates America fromRussia?13) In Russia, which memberof the family is called ababushka?14) Vladimir Putin is the PrimeMinister of Russia. Who isthe President?15) Which Russian leader wasmurdered in Mexico in 1940?The Centre of Attention16) Who wrote the novel "Journeyto the Centre of the Earth?"17) What is the height at thecentre of the net in tennis?18) Which country was at thecentre of the Ottoman Empire?19) What Circular Object AppearsIn The Centre Of The Flag OfIndia?20) Who was the most famousperson to work at theDonnybrook Medical Centre?Getting on a Bit21) Who was the oldest person inthe Bible?22) Who is the oldest man to gointo space?23) Who was the oldest of TheBeatles?24) Which capital city is the oldestcontinuously inhabited city inthe world?25) Which country in Europe hasthe oldest parliament?Famous Smurfs26)27)28)29)30)Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMCChòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh HöôngBieân taäp: Nguyeãn Thuùy LieãuSöûa baûn in: Truùc LanTrình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøyBìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøyNhaø XuaáT baûn toång hôïpTP. Hoà Chí MINH62 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q1ÑT: 38225340 – 38296764 – 38220405 – 38296713 – 38223637Fax: 84.8.38222726 Email: tonghop@ nxbhcm.com.vnWebsite:www.nxbhcm.com.vn - www.fiditour.comThöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DVBa traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøyIn laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cmGPXB soá: 79-12/CXB/536-04/THTPHCMNgaøy 04/02/2012In taïi Coâng ty TNHH MTV ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.In xong vaø noäp löu chieåu thaùng 03/2012365 Days Advertising Trading Services Co.,LtdL4,159 Phan Xich Long, P7, Phu Nhuan District Tel: +84 8 3517 2208Director:Jonny Edbrookejonny@threesixfive-days.comPhoto Editor: Fred Wissinkfred@asialifehcmc.comArt Director: Johnny Murphyjohnny@threesixfive-days.comSenior Designer: Nguyen Mai Anhmaianh@threesixfive-days.comPhotography Interns:Alex Belikov, Alex McMillanManaging Editor: Brett Davisbrett@asialifehcmc.comDeputy Editor: Chris Muellerchris.mueller@asialifehcmc.comContributing Editor: Madeleine Adamsonmadeleine@asialifehcmc.comTraffic Manager: Bui Tu Trinhtrinh.bui@threesixfive-days.comEditorial Intern: Michael TatarskiFor advertising and marketing enquiries please call:Nguyen Kim Hanh +84 908 298395 / +84 8 3517 2208Distribution: Super Long +84 937 633283AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in anyform without prior authorisation of the owners.© Ba Sau Nam Co., Ltd Vietnam7 6 86 2 45 77 4 81 3 4 68 7 34 83 9 58 1 5Pub Quiz Answers1) 15th March 2) Alice's Adventures in Wonderland 3) St David 4) China 5)John Philip Sousa 6) Pride 7) Peugeot 8) Daniel 9) Kate Bush 10) Aslan 11)Aeroflot 12) The Bering Straits 13) Grandmother 14) Dmitry Medvedev 15)Trotsky 16) Jules Verne 17) Three Feet 18) Turkey 19) Ashoka Chakra (A24-spoke wheel) 20) Harold Shipman 21) Methuselah 22) John Glenn (at theage of 77 in 1998) 23) Ringo Starr 24) Damascus (Syria) 25) Iceland 26) Pink27) Sly Stallone 28) Jim Carrey 29) Marilyn Monroe 30) Sean Connery90 asialife HCMC