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64 GDAŃSK WHAT TO SEE
Free City Museum
Historical Zone Free City of Danzig
(Strefa Historyczna Wolne
Miasto Gdańsk) B-4, ul. Piwna
19/21, tel. (+48) 602 27 80 51,
www.strefahistorycznawmg.pl.
Situated in a small room off ul. Piwna
what looks like little more than a three minute diversion
transpires to be one of the most fascinating surprises in
the city. From 1920 till 1939 the city you stand in found
life as a semi-independent state, better known as the Free
City of Danzig. This exhibition aims to celebrate those times,
and more specifically the positives that came about. And
there were many; while the rise of fascism will always cast
a pall over the city, it must also be remembered this was
far from the nationalist hotbed that is always assumed. The
campaign for long term Germanization had been reasonably
effective, yet still over 80% of the population regarded themselves
as Danzigers first and foremost - not Germans, and
not Poles, but the citizens of a unique melting pot in which
two nations co-existed. This heyday is remembered by way
of dozens of everyday treasures rescued from the inter bellum:
on show are reams of collectibles, from banknotes to
beer bottles, from tourist guides to cig packets. Of course
it would be impossible to end the story without mention of
the war, and it’s in the back room you’ll find yellowing copies
of newspapers announcing the first salvos, as well as
a small collection of military helmets. As far as diversions
go this is one for the enthusiasts, and soon to be markedly
increased in size thanks to the attic-style donations from
the local public and an expansion next door. QOpen 13:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Y
Four Quarters Fountain
Four Quarters Fountain
(Fontanna Czterech
Kwartałów) C-4, ul. Grobla
I. Long ago you would
have found old Gdańsk
carved into four quarters,
Szeroki, Wysoki, Rybacki
and Kogi (Wide, High, Fish
and Ship quarter) and today
the geographic point where
these historic areas met has
been handily highlighted by
a dazzling installation that
makes use of lions, light and
water. Better known as the
Jerzy Pinkas
www.gdansk.pl
Four Quarters Fountain (Fontanna Czterech Kwartałów),
this smashing piece of street art was officially unveiled
on September 7th, 2009 - more or less seven years after
the initial idea was conceived. Delayed by the discovery
of Gothic age foundations lying below street level, the 2.2
million złoty project was the brainchild of local graduates
and sculptors Ewa Koprowska and Lucyna Kujawa, with
their work funded by Saur Neptun Gdańsk, a Gdańsk
based water and sanitation company. Featuring four life
size lions (ancient symbols and protectors of Gdańsk)
guarding each corner, and glass coloured blocks embedded
into granite panels, what looks questionably naff
during the day transforms at night during the warmer
months when the blocks light up and twenty four jets of
water shoot high into the sky.
St. Mary’s Church (Bazylika Mariacka) C-4, ul.
Podkramarska 5, tel. (+48) 58 301 39 82, www.bazylikamariacka.pl.
St. Mary’s in the Old Town is believed
to be the largest brick church in the world. The interior
vault supports 37 windows, over 300 tombstones and 31
chapels. It can hold up to 25,000 people, which was useful
during the period of martial law between 1981 and 1983
when members of the Solidarity movement sought refuge
here. The church can be accessed through seven gates
with intriguing names like the Purse Maker’s Door. Interestingly,
the sculptor who carved the crucifix of Christ nailed
his errant son-in-law to a cross so as to add realism to his
work. St. Mary’s was seriously damaged during WWII and
the original frescoes have since been whitewashed, which
far from leaving an impression of stark emptiness bring out
the best in the relics throughout and creating a marvellous
feeling. Of note is the enormous astronomical clock dating
from 1464. Its complex dials show the time and date, phases
of the moon, the position of the moon and sun in relation to
the zodiac signs, and the calendar of saints. Adam and Eve
ring the bell on the hour. According to legend, the clock’s
creator had his eyes gouged out so he’d never make a clock
to better than this one. You’ll hear this story about every
astronomical clock in Europe, and it makes you wonder why
medieval clock-makers ever accepted commissions. The
78 metre tower houses a viewing platform with cracking
views of old Gdansk. The tower has been the subject of a
recent 3.3 million euro renovation. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Sun 13:00 - 18:00. Admission to tower 5zł.
St. Nicholas’ Church (Kościół Św. Mikołaja) C-3,
ul. Świętojańska 72, tel. (+48) 58 301 35 77, www.
gdansk.dominikanie.pl. The first Catholic church in the city
and the only one to escape WWII without a scratch. Founded
by the Dominican Order in 1348-90, this is a remarkable
church with a dark marbled interior, ancient exposed walls
and a sombre atmosphere. Of note is the multi-level high altar
and Baroque-panelled choir stalls which make it a popular
choice for weddings.QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. No visiting during
mass please.
Monuments
Jan III Sobieski Monument (Pomnik Jana III
Sobieskiego) B-3, Targ Drzewny. A large bronze statue
built in 1897 in memory of the Polish king who reigned in the
17th century and famously defeated the Turks at the gates
of Vienna; thereby saving Europe from the Ottoman hordes.
Originally displayed in Lwow (now Ukranian Lviv), the statue
was moved to Warsaw in 1950 before finally being moved to
Gdansk in 1965. During martial law the statue became the
rallying point for demonstrations and marches.
Józef Piłsudski Monument (Pomnik Józefa
Piłsudskiego) E-4, Pl. Piłsudskiego. Standing outside
the city centre on the main road between Gdańsk and Sopot
is this imposing statue of the inter-war leader of Poland,
Marshall Józef Piłsudski. Despite effectively being a dictator,
Piłsudski remains a hero in this country and represents
for many Poles a true national hero. Designed by Tomasz
Radziewicz, the statue was unveiled on November 11, 2006,
Polish Independence Day.
Monument to the Evacuated Children (Pomnik
Kindertransportu) B-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie. Between
1938 and 1939 some 10,000 Jewish children were
evacuated from Gdańsk to Britain in what became known as
‘kindertransports’. Sculptor Frank Meisler was one of them,
and on May 6, 2009 his memorial to this exodus was unveiled
outside Gdańsk Główny train station.
Gdańsk In Your Pocket gdansk.inyourpocket.com
Monument to the memory of Poles who lived in
Wołyń (Pomnik Pamięci Polaków Mieszkających
na Wołyniu) C-2, ul. Stolarska. This monument was
built in memory of Poles who were killed by the Organisation
of Ukrainian Nationalists and the Ukrainian Insurgent
Army during ethnic clashes on Polish Eastern territories in
1943-1945. It was unveiled on the 60th anniversary of the
tragedy - 11 July 2003 as many of the expelled survivors
found themselves in this part of Poland after the conflict. The
motto on the monument says: “If I forget them, God forget
about me” (from the poem by Adam Mickiewicz). The monument
was erected at the request of the World Association
of Home Army Soldiers Volynsky District.
Monument to those who kept Gdańsk Polish
(Tym co za Polskość Gdańska) D-3, ul. Podwale
Staromiejskie. Unveiled in 1969 and designed by
Wawrzyniec Samp and Wieslaw Pietron, this huge stone
monument depicts an axe stuck in the ground and commemorates
all those who gave their lives throughout the
centuries (from the 1308 Gdańsk massacre to WWII) trying
to maintain the Polish identity of Gdańsk.
Museums
Amber Museum (Muzeum Bursztynu) B-4, Targ
Węglowy 26, tel. (+48) 58 301 47 33, www.mhmg.
gda.pl. Housed in Gdańsk’s medieval Fore-gate building
(once home to the Prison Tower and Torture Chamber), this
multi-story exhibit delves extensively into the history of Baltic
amber. The impressive collection of “inclusions” (when bugs
or plants are caught inside the amber) is intriguing to look at,
and the many amber creations, from inkwells to spoons to
a stunning Fender Stratocaster guitar, shows the material’s
diversity. A large open room at the top of the building houses
an impressive array of modern amber jewelry that appears
more artistic than wearable. Many find the separate exhibits
on the building’s past as a torture chamber uncomfortable
- and considering the piped-in soundtrack of pained cries,
we understand why - but they are a must-see, if for no other
reason to find out what “thumb screwing” and a “heretic’s
fork” are. Many of the exhibit rooms throughout the ancient
building are small and cramped, and if you happen to visit on
the same day as a school group it’s a nightmare. Q Open
10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Mon
closed. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. From
June open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 -
19:00. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. From
July open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 -
18:00. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. Y
Archaeological Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne)
D-4, ul. Mariacka 25/26, tel. (+48) 58 322 21 00,
www.archeologia.pl. It might seem strange to find a large
archaeological exhibit on the Sudan in the heart of Gdansk,
faux tribal huts and all, but go with it. The next floors cover
the history of the area, complete with exhumed skeletons,
an ancient canoe and plenty of interesting jewellery that has
been liberated from the ground. More interesting than the Ice
Age weaponry, Stone Age drawings and amber displays are
the models of the city in the past and the detritus collected
after Gdansk was shattered in World War II. With the opening
of more and more modern and visitor friendly museums
in recent years this is both an academic way to spend an
hour of your afternoon and a chance to see what all Polish
museums were once like. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun
10:00-17:00. Closed Mon. From June open 08:00 - 16:00,
Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 8/6zł. Tower 5zł. Family ticket 15zł. Sat free for
permanent exhibition. Guided tour 60zł. Y
gdansk.inyourpocket.com
GDAŃSK WHAT TO SEE
May - July 2012
65