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60 GDAŃSK WHAT TO SEE
Essential Gdańsk
If you’re pressed for time then do your best to squeeze
in Gdańsk’s tourist highlights.
It was in this city that the first fissures in the Iron Curtain
appeared, forced open by Poles during the landmark
August strikes of 1980. Following this first peaceful
victory over the communist rulers, calls for greater
freedoms were only nine years away from bringing down
the Berlin Wall. The centre of these protests were Gate
#2 of the Gdańsk shipyard and this can be found just
outside of old town on ul. Doki (B-1). While there do not
dare miss the Roads to Freedom exhibition (B-1, ul. Wały
Piastowskie 24) close to the shipyards - a moving tribute
to the Solidarity movement. And Gdańsk was not only the
city where the fall of communism can be traced but is also
the first shots of WWII were fired. WWII buffs should not
miss the ferry ride (in season) up to the Westerplatte
peninsula and to the Nowy Port lighthouse where the
scars from the first shots of the war can still be seen.
The old town is where you’ll find a number of photo opportunities
and the sensible start point is The Upland Gate
(B-4, Brama Wyżynna), which marks the start of what was
once known as the Royal Road. Following this route you’ll
pass by Amber Museum and the Torture Chamber (B-4,
Katownia), through the Golden Gate (B-4, Złota Brama)
and onto Long Street (ul. Długa). On the left about half way
down is the Main Town Hall (C-4 Ratusz) which serves
as the home of the Gdańsk History Museum and a few
metres further on is the spot where Neptun’s fountain
(C-5) and Artus Court (C-5, Dwór Artusa). The Royal Way
ends at the impressive Green Gate (C-5, Zielona Brama)
now the home of Lech Wałesa’s office.
St. Mary’s Street (C-4, ulica Mariacka) ranks as the
city’s most picturesque street and is dominated by
the biggest brick church in the world St. Mary’s (C-4,
Bazylika Mariacka). Climb to the top for panoramic
views of the city. Nearby the 15th century Crane (D-4
Żuraw) stands on the river’s edge, a hulking reminder
of Gdańsk’s merchant past. Across the river the eery
remains of Granary Island (D-4/5, Wyspa Spichrzów)
serve as a somber reminder of the havoc wreaked here
by WWII, while the Maritime Museum (including the
ship Sołdek) provides an interesting look at the history
of Polish seafaring.
The old town’s compact nature means that it is easy
enough to hit major landmarks such as St. John’s
Church (C/D-3 Św. Jana), the Great Mill (B-3, Wielki
Młyn) and Great Armoury (B-4, Wielka Zbrojownia)
within a short walk.
The Royal Way
Upland Gate (Brama Wyżynna) B-4, ul. Wały
Jagiellońskie. This 16th century gate, the main entrance
into the Old Town, was the original starting point for the Royal
Way. It was here that the Polish king was welcomed and given
the keys to the city. The gate was originally surrounded by a
50m moat and was named for its ‘upland’ location above the
water level. The metal pulleys used for raising and lowering
the drawbridges are still visible beneath the coats of arms
of Poland, Prussia and Gdańsk.
Prison Tower and Torture Chamber (Wieża
Więzienna i Katownia) B-4, Targ Węglowy 26. Originally
built as part of the city’s fortifications in the second half
of the 14th century, the complex was rebuilt by Antoni van
Obbergehn between 1593 and 1604 with the smaller of the
two buildings becoming a torture chamber and courthouse
while the larger tower became the prison. It was here that
executions were carried out until the middle of the 19th
century. Damaged during WWII, it has been extensively
renovated and how houses the Amber and Torture Museums.
Golden Gate (Złota Brama) B-4, ul. Długa. The
virtues of Peace, Freedom, Wealth, Fame, Piety, Justice and
Concord are depicted in allegorical statues adorning the
balustrade of this gate overlooking ul. Długa. Built between
1642-44, it was destroyed during WWII and not restored until
1997. An inscription on the gate reads, ‘Small states grow
by concord, great ones fall by disagreement.’
Long Street (Ulica Długa) B/C-4. Picturesque ul.
Długa is one of the city’s oldest thoroughfares. From the
Golden Gate which protects it, the gently-curving street
opens into an array of colourful burgher houses, roccoco
portals, gothic mouldings and original porticoes. The house
numbers run in opposite directions on either side, a feature
typical of old Gdańsk streets. N° 12 houses a Museum of
Burgher Interiors. N° 71 is one of the few structures on the
street to survive World War II and still bears original mouldings
from the second half of the 15th century. N° 28 is Dom
Ferberów (Ferber’s House), dating to 1560, with magnificent
sculptures and the three familiar coats of arms. N° 29 has
an interesting crew of Roman emperors peering from its baroque
façade. King Władysław IV entertained local dignitaries
at Lwi Zamek (The Lion’s Castle) at N° 35; two lions guard
its portal. The house neighbouring it dates to 1563 and is a
splendid example of the influence of the Dutch renaissance
on Gdańsk architecture. The renaissance house at N° 45
belonged to the Schumann family and is sometimes called
the House of the Polish Kings (Dom Królów Polskich); figures
of Greek gods stud its alcoves. The eastern end of the street
is dominated by the tall, slim tower of the Town Hall.
Main Town Hall (Ratusz
Głównego Miasta) C-4, ul.
Długa 46/47, tel. (+48) 58 767
91 00, www.mhmg.gda.pl. The
Town Hall spire, with a golden replica
of King Zygmunt August on its pinnacle,
dominates ul. Długa’s skyline.
Built in the late 14th century as the
seat of city authorities, the Town
Hall hosted many Polish kings. It was
almost completely destroyed during
WWII but rebuilt with extraordinary
care. The tower contains a 37-bell
clarion which was inaugurated on New Year’s Eve 2000. The
interior of the building, home to Gdańsk History Museum today,
is lushly decorated with painted ceilings, colourful frescoes and
Gdańsk In Your Pocket gdansk.inyourpocket.com
elaborate furniture and carvings. Two solemn lions guard its
18th century portal, from where an elaborate staircase leads
to the luxuriant Sala Czerwona, the Red Room. This room
was used by the council in summer. Its ornamented ceiling
is decorated with 25 paintings surrounding a central piece
entitled The Glorification of the Unity of Gdańsk. Q Open
10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Mon
closed. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. From June
open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. From July open
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Admission
10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free.
Long Market & Neptune Fountain (Długi Targ i
Fontanna Neptuna) C-5. The focal point of Długi Targ,
the Long Market, is the Neptune Fountain, a bronze statue
of the sea god erected in 1549 and converted to a fountain
in 1633 and restored in 2011/12. During WWII, this symbol
of Gdańsk was dismantled and hidden with many of the city’s
other treasures. It was only returned to its rightful place in
1954. The square itself is surrounded by colourful and ornate
houses which look magnificent when the sun is beating off
their decorated walls. Długi Targ used to be home to Gdańsk’s
richest, most elite residents and was used for assemblies.
Executions took place on the square in front of Artus Court.
Artus Court (Dwór Artusa) C-5, Długi Targ 43/44, tel.
(+48) 58 767 91 83, www.mhmg.gda.pl. This impressive
mansion, a symbol of the city’s power in the 16th and 17th
centuries, served as an exchange and as the seat of St.
George and the brotherhoods of rich patricians. Founded as
a meeting place for merchants and dignitaries, it was named
after King Arthur, of round table fame, and hosted many a
noble guest. Following a fire in 1841, it was given a more Gothic
form, complete with ostentatious sculptures and paintings
illustrating man’s merits and vices. Inside, the centrepiece of
the main hall is a 10.64-metre renaissance tiled stove dating
to 1546, made of more than 500 individual tiles and the tallest
of its kind in Europe. Its adornments portray leaders, coats of
arms and allegorical figures. Just to the left is a small pewter
surface that claims to be the oldest table in Poland while two
stone lions protect the entrance to the cellars of the court.
The court still plays an important part in public life today and
is the scene of important receptions and meetings. Q Open
10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Mon
closed. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. From
June open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 -
19:00. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. From July
open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free.
Green Gate (Zielona
Brama) C-5, Długi Targ
24, tel. (+48) 58 307
59 12 ext. 102, www.
muzeum.narodowe.gda.
pl. This magnificent fourarched
gatehouse on the
waterfront was built as a
palace for Polish monarchs.
No Polish king ever stayed
in the building, but Lech
Wałęsa has his office here:
you’ll see his nameplates
on the walls of the gate. The gate leads to the Green Bridge,
which spans the Motława River and which used to be raised
to stop the riff-raff from getting into the Old Town. Following
a careful renovation the gate now bears an uncanny resemblance
to Amsterdam’s central train station, and is frequently
home to passing exhibitions.
gdansk.inyourpocket.com
GDAŃSK WHAT TO SEE
Agnieszka Syroka
Tour Guide & Tour Leader
Gdańsk - Sopot - Gdynia - Malbork Castle
Frombork - Pomerania
Mobile: +48 502-554-584
email: asyroka@interia.pl
www.tourguidegdansk.com
May - July 2012
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