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36 GDAŃSK RESTAURANTS<br />
Eating at a Glance<br />
Dining in Gdańsk continues to improve and there are<br />
now a few restaurants which we receive regular positive<br />
emails about to the office. The figures in brackets denote<br />
the approximate price of the cheapest and dearest<br />
main course on the menu. The opening hours we list<br />
are flexible and are rough guidelines as to when you<br />
can expect the chef to be working. If business is slow<br />
people will have no qualms about shutting early. Service<br />
in general has improved considerably, although it can<br />
still be annoying slow. Also beware of using ‘thank you’<br />
when paying for your bill. This is often taken to mean<br />
‘Keep the change’.<br />
Here are some recommendations depending on what<br />
you are looking for.<br />
Local: Check out the local Gdansk cuisine in Gdanska<br />
or try Metamorfoza for a modern take on traditional<br />
local dishes. If it’s pierogi you want then Pierogarnia U<br />
Dzika is for you while Swojski Smak is great for meaty<br />
moments. Goldwasser is one of our favourites with<br />
great food and a view over the river from their terrace.<br />
Check out their collectable sets of Goldwasser liquer. For<br />
local fish, then try Targ Rybny or Tawerna or dine where<br />
Lech Walesa takes his official guests, at the historic Pod<br />
Lososiem (Under the Salmon).<br />
Cheap: The legendary Bar Pod Rybą does an excellent<br />
line in baked potatoes served with a wide choice of<br />
toppings while we love Nalesnikowo for pancakes and<br />
crepes. Alternatively take a step back in time and eat in<br />
one of the ‘Milk Bars’ where basic and very cheap food<br />
is served up in a pre-1989 atmosphere.<br />
Lads: Head to Brovarnia, a posh microbrewery<br />
complimented with a strong menu, go to Masala for an<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian or test the chef’s use of spice at Buddha Lounge.<br />
Couples: Not just for couples but Filharmonia is<br />
probably the city’s standout restaurant both for food<br />
and wonderful views from their terrace.<br />
Splurge: Prices are still competitive compared to<br />
Scandinavia and Western Europe so nowhere is going<br />
to have you seeing stars. For a special occasion take a<br />
trip out to Dwor Oliwski in Oliwa (although avoid it in<br />
June when the place is closed to non-residents as the<br />
German football team are staying there).<br />
American<br />
NEW<br />
Casino Diner B-3, ul. Latarniana 2, tel. (+48) 505 50 72<br />
53. Adopting the look of a classic American roadside diner complete<br />
with high stools at the bar and booth seating, Cassino is<br />
named in honour of the tiny gambling den that stood on this spot<br />
for many years. The menu goes well beyond steaks, burgers and<br />
fries although it is for those that you should visit. The burgers are<br />
made to order and the juices are a sign of their freshness while<br />
the fries are chunky and cooked to perfection. With sides like<br />
onion rings, stuffed peppers and wings, you can really pig out<br />
at very attractive prices washed down with a beer while those<br />
less carnivorous can opt for a salad option or one of the few<br />
fish and pasta choices. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 -<br />
24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). PTAUGBSW<br />
Original Burger C-4, ul. Długa 47/49, tel. (+48) 58 306<br />
77 63, www.originalburger.pl. Simple food is done very well<br />
here and breathes life into a premises next to the town hall that<br />
were in serious need of resuscitation. No prizes for guessing that<br />
the stars of the menu are the burgers and the freshly prepared<br />
patties are cooked to order and come served on fresh buns<br />
with a choice of toppings. Closer to an American style burger<br />
than anything you’ll likely receive when ordering from a fast food<br />
window in Polska, the calorie hit is rounded off by crispy fries<br />
and onion rings. There are non-burger options too and while the<br />
salad and fish on the adjacent table looked appetising there was<br />
no way we’d have swapped it for our Classic with cheese which<br />
was very good indeed. Un-town hall prices also mean you leave<br />
with a smile. One tip. This being Poland expect gherkins to be<br />
included in your toppings unless you specify otherwise. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:30. (16-19zł). A6VGBSW<br />
Chinese<br />
Yang Guang D-5, ul. Stągiewna 1, tel. (+48) 58 301<br />
58 45, www.chinska-gdansk.pl. A good choice for big,<br />
greasy helpings of Chinese comfort food. The interiors are an<br />
improbable mix of lanterns and fans juxtaposed against dark<br />
shadows and Ye Olde Danzig furnishings, and while it doesn’t<br />
look particularly enthralling it’s unlikely you’ll come away feeling<br />
anything less than deeply satisfied - no small praise in<br />
a city still struggling to embrace the concept of ethnic food.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-100zł). TJAVGBS<br />
Fish<br />
Fish Markt (Targ Rybny) D-3, ul. Targ Rybny 6c, tel.<br />
(+48) 58 320 90 11, www.targrybny.pl. Without doubt one<br />
of the better restaurants in the town. This place is a visual delight<br />
from the moment you enter, with warm light wood furnishings<br />
All new menu<br />
Gdańsk <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> gdansk.inyourpocket.com<br />
topped with check blue tablecloths and model fishing boats. The<br />
seafood is reputed as some of the best in town, and we’ve found<br />
no reason to dispute this. But fishy offerings be damned, we’ve<br />
discovered one more reason to visit and that’s the Argentinean<br />
steak, nicely concluded with a nip of Danzig liquor made to ancient<br />
recipes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-59zł). TAGBS<br />
Tawerna C-5, ul. Powroźnicza 19/20, tel. (+48) 58<br />
301 41 14, www.tawerna.pl. Entering Tawerna isn’t<br />
unlike walking the gangplank and boarding an 18th century<br />
galleon. Fitted with heavy woods, nautical trinkets and paintings<br />
of naval engagements Tawerna is the spitting image of<br />
Nelson’s cabin. The chefs, trained in France, have cooked<br />
for dignitaries like the President of Poland, and while the<br />
menu is primarily famed for its seafood there’s also some<br />
highly rated Gallic dishes on show. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(34-99zł). PTA6UGBSW<br />
French<br />
Verres en Vers C-5, ul. Długi Targ 19 (Radisson Blu<br />
Hotel), tel. (+48) 58 325 44 49, www.radissonblu.<br />
com/hotel-gdansk. Featuring hardwood floors, bespoke<br />
chandeliers and an open kitchen this French inspired brasserie<br />
promises the freshest seasonal produce cooked by a<br />
star chef with a school report that includes stints in Poland’s<br />
best restaurants. Pricey (80zł for steak), but the quality is<br />
unquestionable, and furthermore the terrace is one of the<br />
nicest places in town to eat Al Fresco once the weather<br />
allows. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:30.<br />
(45-90zł). PTYAUGBSW<br />
Milk Bars<br />
Don’t expect a gastronomic experience. Do expect a rare<br />
insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland. Subsidised by the state,<br />
this was food for the masses back in the day. With the<br />
fall of communism many bar mleczny found themselves<br />
forced out of business although a few of these canteens<br />
have survived and, aside from offering an interesting<br />
diversion for amateur anthropologists, they make it possible<br />
to eat lots in return for a handful of coins.<br />
Bar Mleczny Neptun (Milk Bar Neptune)<br />
C-4/5, ul. Długa 33/34, tel. (+48) 58 301 49 88,<br />
www.barneptun.pl. The most famous milk bar in town,<br />
and as such expect it to be rammed with pensioners,<br />
builders and weird backpackers queueing for pork<br />
chops and mashed cabbage. Get there early as variety<br />
diminishes quickly. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00. (6-17zł). PTGBSW<br />
Bar Mleczny Syrena (Milk Bar Mermaid) F-3,<br />
Al. Grunwaldzka 71/73, tel. (+48) 58 341 01 53.<br />
Cleaner than average, fast and busy, with decent Polish<br />
standards. Grab a tray and choose from a menu of<br />
cutlets, bigos, pierogi and vegetable dishes. If you can’t<br />
speak Polish, just take your chances with a pre-prepared<br />
plate from the counter. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat. (4-10zł). TGS<br />
Bar Mleczny Turystyczny (Milk Bar Tourist) B-3/4,<br />
ul. Szeroka 8/10, tel. (+48) 58 301 60 13. A small<br />
cafteria serving standard eats like fried cutlets, mashed<br />
potatoes, pierogi and stuffed cabbage leaves. Seedy and<br />
ugly, with hard little stools, it’s strictly a bite-on-the-run place.<br />
But the food isn’t too bad and the British Guardian newspaper<br />
tipped it as a decent cheap eat. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (3-10zł). UGBS<br />
gdansk.inyourpocket.com<br />
GDAŃSK RESTAURANTS<br />
May - July 2012<br />
37