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138 KASHUBIA
Szymbark
Kashubia Cultural and Education Center (Centrum
Edukacji i Promocji Regionu) ul. Szymbarskich
Zakładników 12, Szymbark, tel. (+48) 58 684
69 33, www.cepr.pl. About half way between Kartuzy and
Kościerzyna lies the tiny settlement of Szymbark, headquarters
of the local log cabin manufacturer Danmar and its
patriotic Kashubian owner, Daniel Czapiewski. Czapiewski’s
unique vision of the world has spawned the extraordinary
Centrum Edukacja i Promocji Regionu w Szymbarku (Centre
for Education and Regional Promotion in Szymbark), a fascinating
retreat based on his company grounds and dedicated
to the preservation and promotion of Kashubian culture.
Cutting out the waffle, this place is the closest you’ll find
to a theme park in the area, and a cracking day out. That
this place packs out mid-week during a storm suggests
there’s something special going on here, and indeed there
is. For a start there’s the longest plank of wood in the world
(36.83 metres and with a Guinness certificate to boot). And
as if one Guinness Book of World Records entry wasn’t
enough they also have the world’s biggest concert piano
which weighs in at a massive 2 tonnes.
There’s a lot more to see and do as well. First to really catch
the attention is the ‘Soviet Camp’, a faithful reproduction of
one of the Siberian outposts to which thousands of Poles
were banished and banged up in during Stalin’s reign. This
was one nasty man, one who makes Saddam look like the
Cookie Monster, and walking inside the huts and cabins
leaves a deep impression on anyone unfamiliar with Soviet
terror. Next up, there’s a reconstruction of one of the bunkers
used by the local wartime resistance movement, Gryf
Pomorski, and visiting it means crouching double before
following a tight, twisting tunnel carved into the mud. Having
scrabbled through slicks of sludge you’ll find yourself in a
blackened room, the scream of dive bombers played from
speakers at ear breaking level.
Further points go to exhibitions and reconstructions titled
‘The History of the Polish Manor House’, ‘Kashubian
Cottage’ and such like, though for many the undisputed
highlight proves to be ‘the upside down house’, a great
big wooden lodge quite literally dropped on its head. If
you think it looks weird from the outside, then join the line
and step inside. The sensation of being upside down has
people swerving around in a Saturday night stupor, and
is apparently meant to prompt deep questions such as
‘Where are you going humanity?’
Fun and education are unlikely bedmates, but they
become just that here. And aside from the information
overload there’s opportunities aplenty to do things
like catch your own dinner using traditional Kashubian
methods, cook sausages with red hot pokers, or dangle
precariously from trees in their line park. Absolutely
unmissable. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Admission 15zł. Children under 6 enter for free. Group
ticket for more then 24 people 12zł per person. Y
Bursting with magnificent lakes, hills, streams and forests
concealing a small, buttermilk-drinking race of people who
speak a strange language and who observe their own unique
customs, the little-known region west of Gdańsk that is
Kashubia has been drawing urban Poles into its lazy summer
clutches for generations. ‘Not German enough for the
Germans, not Polish enough for the Poles’ was how Günter
Grass, a Kashubian himself, described his native kinfolk,
whose heartland, Szwajcaria Kaszubska, or Kashubian
Switzerland, offers a wealth of opportunities for the traveller
tired of the same old Polish holiday routine. Refreshingly
different and pleasantly lacking in foreigners, Kashubian
Switzerland is small enough to be covered in a day or two by
car or bus, yet rich enough in opportunities to swim, fish and
sail as well as enjoy its unique culture to fill you with enough
good memories to last for years to come.
Essentials
Taking a journey out into Kashubia means going a little off
the tourist trail so there are a couple of essential points to
bear in mind when deciding to venture out on what will be
a rewarding trip.
Maps
To fully explore Kashubia it’s essential that you have at least
one good map. Recommended is the Kaszuby Środkowe map
publishing by Compass 1:55,000 and costs 7.50zł. There is
also a great guidebook “KASZUBY Przewodnik Turystyczny
“ published by Region and written by Jarosław Ellwart and
which over 366 pages covers everything you might want to
do and see in Kashubia.
Kartuzy
A pleasant 30km drive west from Gdańsk, Kartuzy is a sleepy
little town of 16,000 people built around three lakes. First
mentioned in 1391, Kartuzy takes its name from the Carthusian
monks who were invited to set up a monastery here in
the 14th century. Currently reinventing itself as the region’s
tourism hub, Kartuzy’s good-looking Rynek, peaceful parks
and lakeside walks offer a brief diversion before delving into
your first Kashubian adventure.
Eat
Kania Lodge Sytna Góra 10, tel. (+48) 58 684 07 90,
www.kanialodge.com.pl. Kania Lodge’s classy in-house
restaurant offers dishes including wild salmon, duck and locally
picked mushrooms. The Kiwi owner is a wine lover, meaning
there’s also a superb choice of wines. Recently they picked up
a Wine Spectator award of excellence who described the collection
as as “one of the most outstanding restaurant wine lists
in the world”. It is strongly recommended that guests reserve
beforehand. Q Lunch 65zł, Dinner 110zł. TAGBW
See
Carthusian Church Monastery ul. Klasztorna 5,
Kartuzy, tel. (+48) 58 681 20 85. Built in 1380, this amazing
Gothic church originally featured a simple shingle roof,
which was changed into its now notorious coffin-shaped lead
sheet iron form in the 1730s. The church and surrounding
ensemble of buildings were once home to a small group of
Carthusian monks from Bohemia, a peculiar brotherhood who
favoured among other eccentricities a Trappist lifestyle and
sleeping in coffins. Inside, find a rich collection of Baroque
altars, 29 elaborately carved wooden seats for the monks,
a large collection of 17th-century religious paintings and the
Kashubia In Your Pocket kashubia.inyourpocket.com
famous clock pendulum on which hangs a white angel swinging
a scythe, accompanied by the eerie words ‘each passing
seconds brings you closer to your death’. The church is considered
by many to be one of the most interesting religious
buildings in Europe and is an absolute must-see. Q Open
08:30-16:30. Not visiting during mass please. Admission 2zł.
Kaszuby Museum ul. Kościerska 1, Kartuzy, tel.
(+48) 58 681 14 42, www.muzeum-kaszubskie.gda.
pl. A beautiful evocation of Kashubian culture on two floors,
including some suburb examples of traditional folk art (see
The Kashubians) as well as local costumes, farming and
fishing implements, looms, wickerwork and a small shop
selling a range of traditional handicrafts. QOpen 08:00 -
16:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/6zł. Y
Sleep
Kania Lodge Sytna Góra 10, tel. (+48) 58 684 07 90,
www.kanialodge.com.pl. Set overlooking a lake in the
Kashubian countryside, this wonderful lodge combines high
quality accommodation, great food, the best wine selection
you’re likely to find in the north of Poland, activities galore and
a warm family greeting and hospitality. Honoured by Harper’s
Travel Report and the US Wine Spectator magazine recently,
the centrepiece is a 4-bedroom cottage with living room and
bathroom while a second suite has been added to the main
building in a makeover that has seen several of the bed
and bathrooms re-modelled. There’s tennis, rowing boats,
cycling and a spa to keep you busy although the temptation
is just to sit down with the New Zealand owner and let him
take you through the choice of wines he’s imported this
season. Q13 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles, 9 apartments).
THAFGKDW
kashubia.inyourpocket.com
Tourist information
KASHUBIA
Kaszuby Museum Tourist Information ul.
Kościerska 1, Kartuzy, tel. (+48) 58 681 14 42,
www.muzeum-kaszubskie.gda.pl. Sell local maps as
well as folk art and CDs of Kashubian folk music. They
also have a large database of accommodation in the
region. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Tourist information ul. Parkowa 3, Kartuzy, tel.
(+48) 58 681 01 85, www.biblioteka.kartuzy.pl. The
official tourist office. Also at ul. Klasztorna 1, Kartuzy
(Open 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-15:00; (+48) 58 684
02 01). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 17:00,
Wed 10:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Tourist Information ul. Klasztorna 1, Kartuzy, tel.
(+48) 58 684 02 01, www.biblioteka.kartuzy.pl.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
May - July 2012
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