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7kh 7ul flw\ v prvw dxwkhqwlf 7h[ 0h[ uhvwdxudqw ... - In Your Pocket

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106<br />

SOPOT SPA<br />

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SPA INSTITUTE<br />

Th e beauty treatments menu off ered<br />

by our Spa <strong>In</strong>stitute always respond<br />

to the requirements of our Guest!<br />

Hotel Haff ner, ul. Haff nera 59, Sopot<br />

Tel. +48 58 550 98 53, www.hotelhaff ner.pl<br />

For most foreign visitors Gdańsk is the region’s calling card<br />

but it’s Sopot that has been the region’s primary attraction<br />

for visitors and for the best part of 200 years it was one of<br />

Europe’s premiere health and spa resorts. As with much of<br />

Poland, the city was hit heavily first by the war, then a chronic<br />

lack of capital after. But this has all changed with lower<br />

Monte Cassino receiving a complete facelift. Central to this<br />

multi-million euro development is the latest incarnation of<br />

the Resort House (Dom Zdrojowy) which you will find at the<br />

head of the pier.<br />

The First Resort House<br />

Although there has been recorded settlement here since<br />

1283, the history of spa in the city can be traced back to the<br />

beginning of the 19th century. Attempts were made by the<br />

Carl Christoph Wegner, a Gdańsk patrician, to create a resort<br />

here right at the start of the 19th century. While his attempt<br />

hit a wall, the birth of Sopot (Zoppot, in German) as a spa<br />

resort was close to hand. But it took a Frenchman to make it<br />

work, namely Jean George Haffner. Having discovered Sopot<br />

while moving through Europe as a doctor in Napoleon’s army,<br />

he returned here after the Russian campaign and became a<br />

permanent resident. <strong>In</strong> 1823, he opened the first Bath House<br />

which offered a range of treatments and baths. The first<br />

Resort House was opened in 1824, changing rooms added<br />

on the beach and a small pier built. This opening gambit<br />

was a small, single storied building built perpendicularly to<br />

the beach. The Bath House built the year previous offered<br />

treatments, while the new building served to become the<br />

social HQ for the area with a name for concerts and parties.<br />

Haffner died in 1830, but his legacy didn’t. Stewardship<br />

passed into the hands of the Böttcher family who added<br />

another storey to the Resort House, featuring 12 modest<br />

hotel rooms, while Haffner himself entered folklore, today<br />

revered as the father of modern Sopot.<br />

The Second Resort House<br />

The year 1870 saw a new railway line connecting Sopot<br />

with Berlin, hence sparking a stampede for which the<br />

town was unable to cope with. The projects of Haffner and<br />

Böttcher were simply not able to meet the new demand,<br />

and the council stepped in to the rescue. The existing<br />

buildings were pulled down, and in their place rose the<br />

Second Resort House.<br />

Opened in 1881, this was altogether a larger affair, built<br />

with half-timbered walls, filled with brick and ornamented<br />

with wooden elements. It moved slightly from its original<br />

location and could be found on what is now Powstanców<br />

Warszawy Street). A magnificent vestibule took centre<br />

Postcard showing the terrace of the 3rd Health House<br />

circa 1915. Courtesy of Sopot Museum<br />

Sopot <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sopot.inyourpocket.com<br />

stage, opening onto the restaurants and ballroom, forty<br />

hotel rooms were further added, as were spaces for reading,<br />

music and billiards. Spacious walking galleries were added in<br />

1895, as were concert arenas, and a magnificent fountain<br />

unveiled in 1903.<br />

The Third Resort House<br />

Not content with what they had inherited a new set of civic<br />

authorities carried out further renovations to the resort. New<br />

complexes of baths were added in 1903 and 1907, and the<br />

pier extended by 160m in 1910. The Second Resort House,<br />

barely 30 years old, was no longer suitable for the demands<br />

placed upon it, and in 1909 it was levelled to the ground and<br />

replaced by a third.<br />

Although a competition in 1908 had accepted two designs,<br />

these were rejected due to cost and instead Gdansk<br />

architect Carl Weber, was handed the task of designing a<br />

new Resort House. <strong>In</strong> tandem with Adolph Bielefeldt and Paul<br />

Puchmüller, Weber designed and built the new Resort House<br />

which was constructed in record time between September<br />

30th 1909 and 15th June 1910. An impressive complex of<br />

buildings surrounding the Resort Square on all four sides,<br />

the Resort House was moved slightly to the north to allow<br />

the main thoroughfare, Seesstraße (now Monte Cassino)<br />

to reach the sea.<br />

The new Resort House was like nothing that had come before,<br />

containing snazzy mod-cons like boilers, cold storage rooms<br />

and a telephone switchboard. <strong>In</strong> 1919, and with Sopot now a<br />

part of the Free City of Danzig, the famous casino came into<br />

being. This was to become the focal point of Sopot, and not<br />

too different from the bars and ballrooms immortalized by F.<br />

Scott Fitzgerald. And while the Resort House had developed<br />

throughout the 19th century so too had the town around it.<br />

Sopot was experiencing its golden age, and even during<br />

sopot.inyourpocket.com<br />

SOPOT SPA<br />

wartime continued to thrive as the R&R destination of choice<br />

for combatants on leave. This was all soon to change.<br />

The precise story as to what happened when the Red Army<br />

arrived in March ’45 remains murky, though several eye<br />

witness accounts suggest both civilians and soldiers alike<br />

were chased into the sea by an artillery barrage directed<br />

from the hills. What is clear is that after the Soviets entered<br />

Sopot on March 23, 1945, the lower end of Seesstraße<br />

was levelled. The Resort House was not reconstructed<br />

after the war and the ruins were pulled down in 1945-1947.<br />

Only a couple of original elements remained - a single<br />

storied pavilion in the south-western corner the concert<br />

bowl, terraces, fountain and the semi-circular galleries next<br />

to the sea.<br />

Damaged glories were knocked down, replaced instead by<br />

60s and 70s monsters, whose horrid number included the<br />

avant-garde (it was at the time) Alga building which housed<br />

the biggest food outlet on the Baltic. Today you’ll find Szeyk<br />

and Monteka operating from within. Of the other nasty<br />

single storey pavilions that shot up, most were knocked<br />

down in 2006-2007 to make way for the new development,<br />

and are now fondly forgotten as a passing blur from the<br />

communist years.<br />

The Fourth Resort House<br />

The latest incarnation includes around it the Sheraton Sopot<br />

Hotel, a multiplex, conference centre and an impressive<br />

range of bars, cafes and terraces. The development was<br />

formally opened to the public on July 18th, 2009, and will<br />

leave anyone who remembers Sopot of yore doing a double<br />

take. Gone are the shabby pavilions and lego architecture<br />

of the 70s, replaced instead with a sparkling development<br />

that hasn’t foregone the past – the rotunda is a faithful<br />

reproduction, while the fountain is a restored original.<br />

May - July 2012<br />

107

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