Camping and woodcraft - Scoutmastercg.com

LIVING OFF THE COUNTRY 407ground so as not to catch by a leg or foot. Thebait sets back only far enough for the noose to catcharound the throat and behind the ears—except incase of a 'coon, which always reaches in with itspaw, so the bait-stick must be set far enough backto allow for this.For rabbits, cut a limber stick about two feetlong and as thick as your thumb; sharpen bothends, bend in the middle, and drive in the ground inthe form of an arch (A), The end of the springpole,when bent over, comes just over the top ofthis arch (D). Now cut a stick (B) of lengthcorresponding to height of arch, trim one end to aslightly wedge-shaped point, and tie the bait to themiddle. A similar stick (C) is cut of such lengththat, when rigged as here shown, the bait will standat the right distance back of the arch. The figureshows how the noose is attached. If the groundis soft, set the butt of the bait-stick on a fiat stoneor chip.To make the animal stick his head in through thearch, instead of elsewhere, drive dead sticks in asemi-circle, with the arch for an entrance, leavingtwigs on them to give a natural appearance to thelittle den.Such a snare can be used with success on largeanimals, a stronger spring-pole and noose being required,of course, and the pen made larger, accordingly.Even such powerful beasts as the bearand the moose can be caught with snares of twistedrawhide or rope—but we are considering only smallgame.When setting for animals that are wilyand suspicious, use no green sticks, but sound deadones, rub dirt over the cuts, drop no chips aboutthe snare, leave the ground undisturbed, and handlethings as little as possible, for your own scent is a"give-awa3%"It is of no use to set snares or other traps exceptwhere there is recent "sign," such as tracks, droppings,twigs and bark nibbled, feathers or hair of