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Camping and woodcraft - Scoutmastercg.com

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244 CAMPING AND WOODCRAFTpitch is required to st<strong>and</strong> the strain, <strong>and</strong> to keepsnow-water from backing up under the shingles.In laying the roof, begin at the eaves, lettingseveral inches overhang. The clapboards shouldalso project a little at the sides of the roof. Whenthe first course is laid, take the straight-edge thatFig. 75.—Log cabin(end view)you used for leveling the sills <strong>and</strong> nail It lightlyon top of this course as a guide for the next to buttagainst. Then lay the second course, breakingjoints carefully; <strong>and</strong> so on to the top. If youfinish the ridge with a saddle-board (inverted troughto shed water from the joint), or a log hewed outto serve as such, then the clapboards are sawed offto fit. Otherwise, let the top course on one sideproject, slanting upward over the other (this is nota reliable device for a very windy or snowy climate).Floor.—In laying the floor, leave an open spacein front of fireplace for the hearth. As the joistswill shrink In seasoning, It Is w^Ise to use as fewnails as practicable (only at ends of boards). Nextyear the planks may be taken up to be refittedwhere they have gaped apart, blocked up where thejoists have sagged, driven tight together by an extrastrip, <strong>and</strong> then nailed permanently In place.Door <strong>and</strong> Windows.—Before sawing out thedoor space, tack a plank vertically on each sideas a guide, <strong>and</strong> block or wedge the logs so they canno*^

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