Camping and woodcraft - Scoutmastercg.com

CABIN BUILDING 239I have helped to build two clapboard-roofed cabinswith fewer tools than these, but the others wouldhave come in handy. We had no need for any notmentioned on this list. Some of these are used onlyin making furniture. All of the light tools exceptthe square go in a carpenter's shoulder chest. Thecrosscut saw should be tied between two thin boards,as shipped from the factory.Materials to be "carried in" are i^-in. planksfor flooring, dressed on one side; %-in. planks,dressed on both sides, for door, casings, shutters,furniture, and shelving; 2 glazed window sashes,single; wire nails (4od, lod, 6d), wrought nailsfor door and hinges; strap hinges for door andcupboard and chests; door-lock; 2 flat steel barsfor fireplace lintel; round steel rod for "crane" infireplace ; heavy wire for pot-hooks. A screen door,and wire screen cloth for windows, will add greatlytocomfort.Site.—Build where there is good natural drainage,and below a spring, or near some other sourceof water supply that is beyond suspicion. Cut awajrall trees that would shade the cabin except from theafternoon sun. Forest air is nearly always damp,and you need plenty of sunshine up to the noonhour. If you are in an original forest of tall,trees, bear in mind that such do not root nearly,so firmly as trees growing alone m exposed positions.When a tree of the ancient forest is left standingby itself in a clearing, it is easily overthrown byv/ind ; so do not leave one of these near enoughto the house that it might crush your cabin.The features of good and bad sites are discussedin Vol. I., pp. 208-214.Do not dig a cellar under the house. A cellarnot cemented is a trap for water, especially whenthe snow begins to melt. A small cache may bedug under the center of the floor, where it will stay,