Number in series 50; Year of publication 1956 - Fell and Rock ...
Number in series 50; Year of publication 1956 - Fell and Rock ...
Number in series 50; Year of publication 1956 - Fell and Rock ...
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T. HOWARD SoMERVELlPresident, [954-<strong>1956</strong>
THE J O U R N A L OFTHE FELL & ROCKC L I M B I N G C L U BOF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICTEdited byW. G. STEVENSNo. <strong>50</strong>VOLUME XVII(No. Ill)Published byTHE FELL AND ROCK C L I M B I N G CLUBOF T H E E N G L I S H L A K E D I S T R I C T<strong>1956</strong>
CONTENTSOfficers <strong>of</strong> the Club, 1906-<strong>1956</strong> ...PAGE...vi, viiThe First Fifty <strong>Year</strong>s F. H. F. Simpson 233Look<strong>in</strong>g Back <strong>and</strong> Forth <strong>in</strong> the<strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong> T. Howard Somervell 264Melodious Memories ... ... Marjorie Y. Wa\efield 269The Good Young Days ... Dorothy Pilley Richards 271Camp Christmas ... Graham Sutton 281The Lakel<strong>and</strong> L<strong>and</strong>scape ... . ..F. /. Mon\house 287In Rem<strong>in</strong>iscent Ve<strong>in</strong> ... Lord Chorley 303March <strong>in</strong> Westmorl<strong>and</strong> ... ... Mary Rose FitzGibbon 309Some Lakel<strong>and</strong> Trees ... Athol Murray 310From Wheels to Wheels ... F. Lawson Coo\ 312Further Notes on the Great LangdaleStone Axe Factory R. G. Fl<strong>in</strong>t 325' Nowt Caps Coniston ' ... f. W. Diamond 327Pillar <strong>Rock</strong>—A Footnote to History 332A Note on the Alan Craig Photographs 335The <strong>Year</strong> with the Club Muriel Files 337The Fort William Meet, May, 1955 W. G. Stevens 341Climbs Old <strong>and</strong> New Peter M<strong>of</strong>fat 344In Memoriam 354Wilson ButlerE. H. BanksG. W. Wood-Johnson Mrs. Gilbert-CooperG. E. Howard H. C. Ha<strong>in</strong>esWilson H. HeyW. M. HumphreyB. Z. Simpson K. B. Milne}. W. Diamond A. WildgooseT. A. WoodsendEditor's Notes 361Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner, 1955 ... A. H. Griff<strong>in</strong> 366The Conqueror <strong>of</strong> Kanchenjunga ... John Hirst 368Club Notes <strong>and</strong> Comments 369The London Section, 1955... 371Officers <strong>of</strong> the London Section, 1920-195( 372The Library 373Reviews 374
VIOFFICERS OF THE CLUBPresidents :1907-08 A. P. ABRAHAM 1931-33 C F. HADFIELD1908-10 G. SEATREE 1933-35 W. G. MlLLIGAN1910-12 W. C. SLINGSBY 1935-37 R. S. T. CHORLEY1912-17 w. P. HASKETT-SMITH 1937-39 G. R. SPEAKER1917-19 p. S. MINOR 1939-44 F. L. COOK1919-21 G. A. SOLLY 1944-46 G. WILSON1921-231923-25D. LEIGHTONA. W. WAKEFIELD1946-48 L. W. SOMERVELL1948-<strong>50</strong> J. C. APPLEYARD1925-27 H. P. CAIN 19<strong>50</strong>-51 H. WESTMORLAND1927-29 T. R. BURNETT 1951-52 T. R. BURNETT1929-31 G. BASTERFIELD 1952-54 A. B. HARGREAVES1954-56 T. H. SOMERVELLVice-Presidents :1907 J. W. ROBINSON1907-08 G. SEATREE, A. W. WAKEFIELD1908-10 G. D. ABRAHAM, G. F. WOODHOUSE1910-12 C. B. PHILLIP, E. H. P. SCANTLEBURY1912-14 A. E. FIELD, W. C. SLINGSBY1914-17 H. B. LYON, L. J. OPPENHEIMER1917-19 J. COULTON, A. CRAIG1919-21 C. H. OLIVERSON, T. C. ORMISTON-CHANT1921-23 T. R. BURNETT, W. BUTLER1923-25 G. BASTERFIELD, J. B. WILTON1925-27 C. F. HADFIELD, B. S. HARLOW1927-29 R. S. T. CHORLEY, L. W. SOMERVELL1929-31 G. S. BOWER, G. A. SOLLY1931-33 W. G. MILLIGAN, Miss K. WARD1933-35 P. D. BOOTHROYD, G. WILSON1935-37 Mrs. B. EDEN-SMITH, H. M. KELLY1937-39 B. BEETHAM, C. F. HOLLAND1939-43 Mrs. R. S. T. CHORLEY1939-45 J. C. APPLEYARD1943-45 G. ANDERSON1945-47 Miss M. R. FITZGIBBON, A. T. HARGREAVES1947-49 A. B. HARGREAVES, H. WESTMORLAND1949-51 J. A. KENYON, L. H. POLLITT1951-53 C. E. ARNISON, F. H. F. SIMPSON1953-55 J. R. FILES, H. P. SPILSBURY1955-56 W. E. KENDRICK, R. G. PLINT
1906 -<strong>1956</strong> VIISecretaries :1906-10 E. H. P. SCANTLEBURY1910-11 A. CRAIG*1910-12 C. GRAYSON*1912-20 D. LEIGHTON1920-22 J. B. WILTON1922-26 L. W. SOMERVELL1926-34 T. C. APPLEYARD1934-35 G. WILSON1935-40 D. N. BOOTHROYD1940-44 Miss M. LEIGHTON(Mrs. COCKERTON)1944-48 J. C. APPLEYARD1948-56 Miss L. KELLETT(Mrs. PICKERING)•Jo<strong>in</strong>t Secretaries,IQIO-TILibrarians :1909-14 C. GRAYSON1914-19 J. P. ROGERS1919-27 H. P. CAIN1927-35 Miss M. M. CAIN(Mrs. ALFEROFF)1935-56 Miss M. R.FITZGIBBONCustodian <strong>of</strong> Lantern Slides :1936-56 F. H. F. SIMPSONTreasurers :1906-16 A. CRAIG1916-20 W. BuTLERf1920-33 W. G. MILLIGAN1933-44 A. B. HARGREAVES1944-46 B. Z. SIMPSON1946-48 A. B. HARGREAVES1948-56 R. G. PLINTtAct<strong>in</strong>g Treasurer from 1915Editors <strong>of</strong> Journal:1907 G. F. WOODHOUSE1907-10 E. H. P. SCANTLEBURY1910-18 W. T. PALMER1918-27 R. S. T. CHORLEYt1926-33 Mrs. R. S. T.CHORLEY+1933-42 G. R. SPEAKER1942-45 Mrs. R. S. T. CHORLEY1945-<strong>50</strong> E. B. MENDUS19<strong>50</strong>-56 W. G. STEVENStJo<strong>in</strong>t Editors, 1926-27Hut <strong>and</strong> Meets Secretaries :1944-48 Miss L. KELLETT(Mrs. PICKERING)1948-54 W. E. KENDRICK1954-56 H. IRONFIELDBRACKENCLOSEHut Wardens :RAW HEAD1936-46 A. T. HARGREAVES 1945-46 S. H. CROSS1946-<strong>50</strong> A. M. DOBSON 1946-48 R. T. WILSON19<strong>50</strong>-55 D. ATKINSON 1948-53 J. R. FILES1955-56 R. BROTHERTON 1953-56 L. P. SMITHBIRKNESS1951-54 T. E. CORDINGLEY1955 S. R. JACKSON1955-56 E. BETTSSALVING HOUSE1952-56 A. E. WORMELLNote.—' Officers <strong>of</strong> the Club ' <strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>in</strong> this list are those sodenned <strong>in</strong> Rule 3, as at present operative.
THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSF. H. F. SimpsonThe purpose <strong>of</strong> this paper is to trace what may best bedescribed as the constitutional <strong>and</strong> family history <strong>of</strong> the Club. Itis <strong>in</strong>deed impossible to separate the growth <strong>of</strong> the Club from thepersonalities <strong>of</strong> its lead<strong>in</strong>g figures from time to time, so that thestory must frequently touch upon particular people, <strong>and</strong> for thesame reason, some affairs will be constitutional, some family, <strong>and</strong>some perhaps neither. The author chose the title with<strong>in</strong> a fewhours <strong>of</strong> be<strong>in</strong>g briefed for the production, but the editorial<strong>in</strong>tentions be<strong>in</strong>g what they are, the period covered will <strong>in</strong> fact fallshort <strong>of</strong> the half-century by the greater part <strong>of</strong> a year.After an <strong>in</strong>dustrious <strong>and</strong> pa<strong>in</strong>stak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>vestigation, the Editorsummarised <strong>in</strong> ' Documentary Evidence,' published <strong>in</strong> the lastnumber <strong>of</strong> the Journal, his f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>gs regard<strong>in</strong>g the date <strong>of</strong> theClub's birth, <strong>and</strong> established beyond reasonable doubt that thisevent took place on 11th November, 1906. There is, as ithappens, a direct statement <strong>in</strong> writ<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> this date, <strong>of</strong> as early anorig<strong>in</strong> as the first number <strong>of</strong> the Journal, but there are certa<strong>in</strong>other statements at variance with this, which justified the Editor<strong>in</strong> the course which he adopted. Before embark<strong>in</strong>g on his taskhe prepared a memor<strong>and</strong>um, <strong>in</strong> two parts <strong>and</strong> runn<strong>in</strong>g to fullytwenty pages, not <strong>in</strong>tended for <strong>publication</strong>, but <strong>of</strong> immense valueas an historian's guide, <strong>and</strong> acknowledgment must be made to itsauthor <strong>of</strong> the numerous occasions upon which the memor<strong>and</strong>um<strong>and</strong> the appendices which accompanied it, have been consulted.To the Editor, therefore, goes the credit <strong>of</strong> establish<strong>in</strong>g a date asimportant, <strong>in</strong> its own way, as 1066, <strong>and</strong> the historian knowswhere to beg<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> piec<strong>in</strong>g together a story told by the M<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>of</strong>the Committees, <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> the Annual General Meet<strong>in</strong>gs, <strong>and</strong> bythe Club Journal.1 lth November, 1906, was a Sunday. The weather it appears,was good average English—the issue <strong>of</strong> the Manchester Guardianfor the previous day promised ' light or moderate westerly w<strong>in</strong>ds,fair as a whole, but with some showers; little change <strong>of</strong> temperature.'There is ample evidence both <strong>in</strong> the first Journal <strong>and</strong> theearly M<strong>in</strong>utes that five <strong>in</strong>dividuals were directly concerned withthe foundation <strong>of</strong> the Club, <strong>and</strong> it is <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g to contemplatethe k<strong>in</strong>d <strong>of</strong> world upon which these five founder members turnedtheir backs on that very special week-end dur<strong>in</strong>g which asmoulder<strong>in</strong>g idea sparked <strong>of</strong>f to become what is now to many <strong>of</strong>its members, not so much a Club as a way <strong>of</strong> life. The news-Opposite— D OWCRAG — EVENINGFrom a draw<strong>in</strong>g bv W. Heaton Cooper
234 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSpaper before referred to reported a scene <strong>in</strong> the House <strong>of</strong>Commons, <strong>and</strong> a successful experiment with a fly<strong>in</strong>g mach<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong>France. In Paris there were labour demonstrations <strong>and</strong> a deal <strong>of</strong>shout<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> scuffl<strong>in</strong>g. A reputable firm <strong>of</strong> tailors <strong>of</strong>fered loungesuits at 63/-. A shipp<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>in</strong>e tempted the affluent with a 32-days cruise to the tropics for £42; Whisky was 4/- <strong>and</strong> Port 3/-a bottle. A bomb exploded <strong>in</strong> Tiflis, Russia displayed a hostileattitude to F<strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> Vesuvius provided an earth tremor <strong>and</strong>a shower <strong>of</strong> hot s<strong>and</strong>. A barmaid failed <strong>in</strong> an attempt to drownherself at Blackpool, <strong>and</strong> a strong <strong>and</strong> capable cook general, thendisengaged, <strong>of</strong>fered her services for £18 per annum. Patti <strong>and</strong>Melba were to be heard at the Free Trade Hall, upon specialgramophone records, <strong>and</strong> K<strong>in</strong>g Edward <strong>and</strong> Queen Alex<strong>and</strong>rawere prepar<strong>in</strong>g to greet K<strong>in</strong>g Haakon <strong>and</strong> Queen Maud <strong>of</strong>Norway on their arrival for a State visit—<strong>and</strong> f<strong>in</strong>ally. ManchesterCity 1, Arsenal 0. It was a world yet to be blessed by television,antibiotics, sw<strong>in</strong>g music, nuclear fission <strong>and</strong> the Welfare State,<strong>and</strong> we f<strong>in</strong>d it muddl<strong>in</strong>g along without them when five youngmen made their way to Coniston for the week-end. We are told(Journal No. 1) that the summer <strong>and</strong> autumn <strong>of</strong> 1906 had beenremarkably f<strong>in</strong>e so it may be assumed that the activities <strong>of</strong> thefew then <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g themselves <strong>in</strong> climb<strong>in</strong>g had been greatly<strong>in</strong>creased, as no doubt had the thoughts <strong>of</strong> some <strong>of</strong> them that aClub should be formed. In the Sun Hotel at Coniston — <strong>in</strong> thesmok<strong>in</strong>g room it is said — upon that Sunday even<strong>in</strong>g, there metfor this purpose Alan Craig, George Harold Charter, SholtoHamilton Gordon, Charles Grayson <strong>and</strong> Edward Flugh PengellyScantlebury. After a discussion they decided to ' start theF. & R.C.C — it was as simple as that. Of the five onlyCharles Grayson, for many years a resident <strong>in</strong> the United States,survives, <strong>and</strong> the Club might have lost him <strong>in</strong> 1949 when adecision was taken to limit the membership to 1,000. Hetendered his resignation to make room for the ris<strong>in</strong>g generation<strong>and</strong> the Committee <strong>of</strong> the day, aghast at the proposal, promptlymade him an honorary member.The events which followed the formation <strong>of</strong> the Club rema<strong>in</strong>somewhat obscure, <strong>and</strong> it is not until March, 1907, that anapologetic first M<strong>in</strong>ute appears <strong>in</strong> Charles Grayson's h<strong>and</strong>writ<strong>in</strong>g.The Editor has already referred to the undated prospectuswhich is affixed to the front page <strong>of</strong> M<strong>in</strong>ute Book No. 1.This M<strong>in</strong>ute Book is a h<strong>and</strong>some affair, bound <strong>in</strong> black calf <strong>and</strong>l<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>and</strong> lettered <strong>in</strong> gold. Unfortunately subsequent M<strong>in</strong>ute
F. H. F. Simpson 235Books, although equally practical are less beautiful. The Editor'sarticle <strong>of</strong> last year quotes from the prospectus, <strong>and</strong> it onlyrema<strong>in</strong>s to add here that it gives as some <strong>of</strong> the advantages —other than the opportunity for climb<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> gett<strong>in</strong>g to knowone another — available to members, the provision <strong>of</strong> books,maps <strong>and</strong> ropes at appropriate centres, climb<strong>in</strong>g record books' at various places ' <strong>and</strong> an encouragement to <strong>in</strong>vite friends, witha view to their ultimately jo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g the Club. The subscriptionwas 2/6 <strong>and</strong> a membership ticket was <strong>of</strong>fered, the production<strong>of</strong> which was to be necessary when seek<strong>in</strong>g to use a book or rope.The prospectus forecast arrangements for shelters for climbers atconvenient spots, the improvement <strong>of</strong> tracks <strong>and</strong> footpaths, <strong>and</strong>annual <strong>publication</strong> <strong>of</strong> the Journal. Grayson's first M<strong>in</strong>uterecords the discussion <strong>of</strong> no less than n<strong>in</strong>eteen items under thegeneral head<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> ' Aims <strong>and</strong> Rules,' <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the name bywhich the Club has always been known. In addition to thosepreviously recorded there was a decision to attempt arrangementswith the proprietor <strong>of</strong> the Sun Hotel, Coniston, for the leav<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong> his charge <strong>of</strong> all personal property, upon production <strong>of</strong> themembership card, <strong>and</strong> also a special hotel tariff for members.Ladies' annual subscriptions were fixed at 1 /-.The Committee Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> January, 1907, learned thatmembers <strong>and</strong> others had expressed considerable feel<strong>in</strong>g about theproposal to improve tracks <strong>and</strong> erect shelters. It was ab<strong>and</strong>oned,as was the proposal for special hotel tariffs. The M<strong>in</strong>ute addsthat George Seatree spared neither himself nor his pocket <strong>in</strong>efforts to make the Club a success <strong>and</strong> that at the date <strong>of</strong> therecord the membership exceeded 100. By then Ashley Abrahamhad accepted the Presidency <strong>and</strong> Seatree <strong>and</strong> John W. Rob<strong>in</strong>son,the Vice-Presidencies.In February, 1907, H. B. Lyon was added to the Committee.Scantlebury was the Secretary <strong>and</strong> Craig the Treasurer, <strong>and</strong> ata Committee held at Scantlebury's home <strong>in</strong> Ulverston, to whichno date is assigned, eleven prom<strong>in</strong>ent people were chosen assuitable for Honorary membership. Grayson was electedM<strong>in</strong>utes Recorder. This Committee authorised the <strong>publication</strong><strong>of</strong> the first List <strong>of</strong> Officers <strong>and</strong> Members — there were then 103— <strong>and</strong> set out the revised rules. The rules <strong>in</strong>cluded provisionfor the sign<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the Climb<strong>in</strong>g Book before a Club rope wasborrowed <strong>and</strong> such borrow<strong>in</strong>g was restricted to cases <strong>of</strong> emergencyonly. The emergency was simply def<strong>in</strong>ed; a party had tobe without its own rope.
236 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSThe first General Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Members was that at WasdaleHead <strong>in</strong> March, 1907, at which T. C. Ormiston-Chant took theChair <strong>in</strong> the absence <strong>of</strong> the senior Officers. A balance sheet wasapproved <strong>and</strong> the price <strong>of</strong> the Journal fixed at 2/-. The entrancefees were fixed at 5/- for men with a subscription <strong>of</strong> 7/6, <strong>and</strong>a subscription <strong>of</strong> 3/6 for ladies at the same entrance fee. Lifemembership was £4 4s. Od. for men <strong>and</strong> £2 2s. Od. for ladies.This was the meet<strong>in</strong>g which was deprived <strong>of</strong> the services <strong>of</strong>Messrs. Craig, Goodier <strong>and</strong> Grayson ' ow<strong>in</strong>g to delay on Pillar<strong>Rock</strong>.'The Club was clearly gett<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to its stride because there wasno further meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the Committee until September, 1907, atwhich the decision was taken to erect a memorial cairn to JohnWilson Rob<strong>in</strong>son. Dr. A. W. Wakefield accepted the vacantVice-Presidency. The same Committee decided that <strong>in</strong> futurec<strong>and</strong>idates must jo<strong>in</strong> the Club, <strong>and</strong> not the Club the c<strong>and</strong>idates,for it was resolved that c<strong>and</strong>idates must be duly proposed <strong>and</strong>seconded by members <strong>of</strong> at least one year's st<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g, bothsponsors hav<strong>in</strong>g personal knowledge <strong>of</strong> the <strong>in</strong>dividual. Sc<strong>and</strong>eburywas appo<strong>in</strong>ted jo<strong>in</strong>t Editor <strong>of</strong> the Journal with G. F.Woodhouse, <strong>and</strong> a resolution was passed to order at least <strong>50</strong>0copies <strong>of</strong> the first number. H. B. Lyon was charged with thebus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>of</strong> gett<strong>in</strong>g together a committee <strong>of</strong> Kendal men to makearrangements for the first Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner. There was a CommitteeMeet<strong>in</strong>g at the Commercial Hotel, Kendal, before thisD<strong>in</strong>ner on 23rd November, 1907; at the Annual GeneralMeet<strong>in</strong>g which followed, the rules were amended to provide that<strong>of</strong>ficers be elected for a period <strong>of</strong> two years, <strong>and</strong> provision wasmade <strong>in</strong> the rules for the proposal <strong>and</strong> second<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> future c<strong>and</strong>idates.After the D<strong>in</strong>ner the Committee did someth<strong>in</strong>g which isnow unheard <strong>of</strong> — it held another meet<strong>in</strong>g. It must be remarkedthat the agenda was such that there was little need for pr<strong>of</strong>oundthought or prolonged debate. The Committee decided to opena bank account, establish a bookcase at Wasdale <strong>and</strong> to authorisethe purchase <strong>of</strong> a typewriter. F<strong>in</strong>ally, it did itself <strong>and</strong> posteritya good turn by elect<strong>in</strong>g Darw<strong>in</strong> Leighton as one <strong>of</strong> its members.The Club had now settled down to a pattern <strong>of</strong> activity similar<strong>in</strong> many ways to that pursued today <strong>and</strong> the first Committee <strong>of</strong>1909 designed a list <strong>of</strong> meets <strong>in</strong> which for the first <strong>of</strong> manyoccasions Thornythwaite appeared.Two <strong>of</strong> the earliest Club Membership tickets survive amongearly papers. Both are <strong>in</strong> booklet form measur<strong>in</strong>g 4<strong>in</strong>s. by 3<strong>in</strong>s.
F. H. F. Simpson 237The first is pr<strong>in</strong>ted on th<strong>in</strong> card with a light green cover <strong>and</strong> thesecond is on paper with a dark green cover <strong>of</strong> leather cloth. Onthe back <strong>of</strong> the first is pr<strong>in</strong>ted a short poem by William Watsonwhich also appears <strong>in</strong> Journal No. 1. The same ticket sets outthe List <strong>of</strong> Officers <strong>and</strong> a note upon foundation <strong>and</strong> objects withsome Rules <strong>and</strong> Regulations <strong>and</strong> the conclud<strong>in</strong>g item is anacknowledgment to the holder for the subscription for the yearend<strong>in</strong>g 31st October, 1907. The second card be<strong>in</strong>g a slightlylarger edition, lists Honorary Members, <strong>in</strong>cludes suitable extractsfrom the enlarged Rules <strong>and</strong> adds a list <strong>of</strong> Club quarters <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong>seven meets from Easter to Christmas, 1907. It concludes witha warn<strong>in</strong>g note that the nom<strong>in</strong>al subscription for the first seasonwould be <strong>in</strong>creased <strong>and</strong> an entrance fee added.The cynical Committee man <strong>of</strong> <strong>1956</strong> may be forgiven a smileat the brevity <strong>of</strong> early records. Twelve months from November,1908, to November, 1909, occupied only seventeen sheets <strong>of</strong>quarto paper <strong>in</strong> the first M<strong>in</strong>ute Book. The Langdale Committee<strong>in</strong> 1908 approved a statement <strong>of</strong> accounts. Today's Treasurermight gladly change it for his own. This is it:—Dr.General Account1908 AccountStatement <strong>of</strong> Accounts, 16th May, 1908.56 1 939 2 oBalance from 1907Journal Account ...1908 AccountUnpaid subscriptionsCr.d.6 18 648 19 346 15 622 10£ l2 5 3 3£95 3 995 3 9Balance ... £29 r 9 6(Signed) Alan Craig,Hon. Treasurer.In July, 1908, thought was given to establish<strong>in</strong>g an AnnualD<strong>in</strong>ner at Coniston <strong>and</strong> after a brief M<strong>in</strong>ute on the matter thereappears:—' Ladies not to be <strong>in</strong>vited.'The first number <strong>of</strong> the Journal was a commercial success <strong>and</strong>only four copies rema<strong>in</strong>ed unsold about a year after <strong>publication</strong>,<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> November, 1908, the Committee decided to order 6<strong>50</strong>copies <strong>of</strong> the next issue — this when the membership was
238 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSscarcely 200. In spite <strong>of</strong> the frequent committee meet<strong>in</strong>gspostal ballots were <strong>of</strong>ten conducted for the election <strong>of</strong> members<strong>and</strong> on 4th November, 1908, it is recorded that five c<strong>and</strong>idates— among them a certa<strong>in</strong> Dr. T. R. Burnett — were so dealtwith. There was a substantial th<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g out about this time asthe <strong>in</strong>crease <strong>in</strong> subscription caused not only fourteen resignationsbut many defaulters <strong>and</strong> their names were duly struck <strong>of</strong>f.The hold<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the second Annual General Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong>D<strong>in</strong>ner at the Sun Hotel, Coniston, under the Presidency <strong>of</strong>George Seatree, must have given the foundation members considerablesatisfaction. F<strong>in</strong>ances were demonstrated by the firstBalance Sheet. It was a lusty child <strong>of</strong> the earlier statement <strong>and</strong>measured lO<strong>in</strong>s. by 8<strong>in</strong>s. The balance at the year end was nearly£13 better than on the previous Annual Account — <strong>and</strong> this <strong>in</strong>spite <strong>of</strong> the outlay <strong>of</strong> £43 11s. 5d. on 6<strong>50</strong> copies <strong>of</strong> the firstJournal <strong>and</strong> £17 17s. 6d. on a typewriter.In March, 1909, evil befell. The Borrowdale rope wasreported miss<strong>in</strong>g. There be<strong>in</strong>g only three members <strong>of</strong> theCommittee present to receive this <strong>in</strong>telligence they deferred actionuntil the Easter Committee to which came four members. Therope had still not been found at the newly established quarters atThornythwaite. The meet<strong>in</strong>g was alarmed at the implications; anaccident would br<strong>in</strong>g disrepute however sound the rope, or howeverremote its condition from the primary cause. This was thebeg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the end <strong>of</strong> this amenity <strong>and</strong> six months later it wasdecided to sell the exist<strong>in</strong>g ropes <strong>and</strong> not to replace them. TheClub's Officers cont<strong>in</strong>ued to show an awakened sense <strong>of</strong> responsibility<strong>and</strong> at a later meet<strong>in</strong>g twenty-three very severe climbswere listed below a resolution strongly condemn<strong>in</strong>g any memberfor attempt<strong>in</strong>g them without first try<strong>in</strong>g the crux on a rope fromabove, everyone on the <strong>of</strong>fend<strong>in</strong>g rope be<strong>in</strong>g equally guilty. Ofthe twenty-three climbs only Eng<strong>in</strong>eer's Chimney has a questionmark aga<strong>in</strong>st it. Amendments came thick <strong>and</strong> fast <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> anattempt to clarify the record the Secretary chose the follow<strong>in</strong>gmost appropriate acrobatic direction <strong>in</strong> his M<strong>in</strong>ute — ' see foot<strong>of</strong> left page overleaf — backwards.' The Annual GeneralMeet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> 1909 broke a lance for freedom <strong>and</strong> accepted theresolution only when it <strong>in</strong>cluded approval <strong>of</strong> the attempts <strong>of</strong>those climbers who had five years experience <strong>and</strong> had led fifteendifficults.Early <strong>in</strong> 1910 there occurred strong differences <strong>of</strong> op<strong>in</strong>ion onthe future <strong>of</strong> the Journal. The Editor sought the right to
.F. H. F. Simpson 239change the name <strong>and</strong> modify the contents to cater for the <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>of</strong> visitors to the district. There was support for both the<strong>in</strong>novation <strong>and</strong> for the opposite view <strong>and</strong> a resolution was putforward for a change <strong>of</strong> name — The Lakel<strong>and</strong> Journal, <strong>of</strong> size,<strong>and</strong> f<strong>in</strong>ally <strong>of</strong> contents. The Editor stated his case at greatlength with particular emphasis on the virtue <strong>of</strong> the widerappeal. The two camps voted <strong>and</strong> the conservative elementtriumphed by one vote. The Editor resigned <strong>and</strong> was replacedby W. T. Palmer. The outcome was no doubt unexpected;with<strong>in</strong> a month n<strong>in</strong>e members called an Extraord<strong>in</strong>ary GeneralMeet<strong>in</strong>g, the Notice <strong>of</strong> which recapitulated the events <strong>and</strong> providedfor a discussion <strong>of</strong> the cause <strong>and</strong> circumstances <strong>of</strong> theEditor's resignation <strong>and</strong> also <strong>of</strong> a new rule provid<strong>in</strong>g for areference to a sub-committee on any important controversialmatter, with power to report follow<strong>in</strong>g a paper vote. Assum<strong>in</strong>gthis rule was passed it was to be <strong>in</strong>voked forthwith to deal withthe issue. Thirty-five members attended <strong>and</strong> the previousdecision was upheld by twenty votes with six abstentions. Thenext Annual General Meet<strong>in</strong>g rejected the referendum rule. TheClub then applied itself to outdoor activities <strong>and</strong> the Committeescalled for June, July <strong>and</strong> September, 1910, were ab<strong>and</strong>oned forlack <strong>of</strong> a quorum.In October, 1910, the proposal for a Club badge was disapproved.Journal No. 3 sold like hot cakes <strong>and</strong> there were lessthan fifty copies left by February, 1911. The lady memberswere <strong>in</strong> the news aga<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> April, <strong>and</strong> it is recorded that the Clublost on their subscriptions <strong>and</strong> the op<strong>in</strong>ion was expressed thatwhen only a few were members, the small payment was <strong>of</strong>fset bythe honour <strong>of</strong> their presence. It was, however, decided thatthere should be an <strong>in</strong>crease to 5/- for newcomers only. A lightheartedM<strong>in</strong>ute appears <strong>in</strong> September, 1911, when the Secretary,Charles Grayson, attempted to h<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> his resignation <strong>and</strong> thePresident said he could not see it ow<strong>in</strong>g to the poor light. TheSecretary expla<strong>in</strong>ed his position but the Committee could not seethe drift <strong>of</strong> his remarks for the same reason. The Secretary triedaga<strong>in</strong> at the October Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> the President said he mustresign also as he had undertaken <strong>of</strong>fice for one year only. Aftermuch persuasion he consented to run for another year providedthat the Secretary withdrew his resignation. The President <strong>and</strong>Secretary solemnly shook h<strong>and</strong>s on this barga<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> the Committeethen voted aga<strong>in</strong>st permitt<strong>in</strong>g the Illustrated Sport<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong>Dramatic News a page <strong>of</strong> photographs <strong>and</strong> copy on the AnnualB
240 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSD<strong>in</strong>ner Meet. There were many chivalrous exchanges regard<strong>in</strong>gladies subscriptions at the Annual General Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> November,1910, but the figure was nevertheless raised to 5/- optional upto 7/6.In February, 1912, the Club received an <strong>in</strong>vitation from aSwedish mounta<strong>in</strong>eer to bid for a gold medal <strong>in</strong> the OlympicGames at Stockholm for the best mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g feat <strong>of</strong> the year.The <strong>in</strong>vitation was decl<strong>in</strong>ed. 1912 was historically uneventful<strong>and</strong> more meet<strong>in</strong>gs were ab<strong>and</strong>oned for lack <strong>of</strong> quorum. Theoutdoor purposes <strong>of</strong> the Club were clearly be<strong>in</strong>g pursued energetically<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> September the Treasurer could only report onf<strong>in</strong>ance, ' roughly speak<strong>in</strong>g there is a balance <strong>of</strong> £100 to £110<strong>in</strong> h<strong>and</strong>, so far as he could tell.' He was wait<strong>in</strong>g for the Editor'saccounts <strong>and</strong> that <strong>of</strong>ficer only confessed to ' about £6.'Charles Grayson's remarkable h<strong>and</strong>writ<strong>in</strong>g disappears fromthe records but the loss is more than compensated by theappearance <strong>of</strong> the equally strik<strong>in</strong>g penmanship <strong>of</strong> his successor,Darw<strong>in</strong> Leighton. In the early part <strong>of</strong> 1913 the Committeedevoted much <strong>of</strong> its time to the provision <strong>of</strong> ambulance outfits<strong>in</strong> several centres. As is well-known the Club has over theyears made a considerable contribution to the perfection <strong>of</strong> firstaid<strong>and</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong> rescue. The organisation <strong>in</strong> 1955 is on ascale never dreamed <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong> the early years when rescue operationswere rough <strong>and</strong> ready. In August, 1913, the Committeevoted ' twenty shill<strong>in</strong>gs out <strong>of</strong> the Club funds to Nelson, <strong>of</strong>Gatesgarth, for the loan <strong>of</strong> horse <strong>and</strong> cart <strong>in</strong> connection with theButtermere accident.' In the same year the Rucksack Club<strong>in</strong>vited co-operation <strong>in</strong> the provision <strong>of</strong> a mounta<strong>in</strong> hut <strong>in</strong>Ennerdale at the estimated cost <strong>of</strong> £2<strong>50</strong>; co-operation was not,however, forthcom<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> it is recorded ' that the scheme wasconsidered quite unnecessary.'The pr<strong>in</strong>cipal preoccupation <strong>of</strong> the Club's Annual Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>1912 was the prospect <strong>of</strong> a motor road over the Styhead <strong>and</strong> aresolution was passed <strong>in</strong>struct<strong>in</strong>g the Committee to be as frustrat<strong>in</strong>gas it possibly could. Records settled down <strong>in</strong> this year toa pattern which reflects the charm <strong>of</strong> the dy<strong>in</strong>g years <strong>of</strong> theEdwardian period. New members are elected, meets arranged<strong>and</strong> the <strong>in</strong>fant ambulance scheme developed under the guidance<strong>of</strong> Dr. Mason. Press photographers were discouraged fromappear<strong>in</strong>g at the well attended Meets. The whole <strong>of</strong> Thornythwaitewas booked <strong>in</strong> May, 1914, for the Whitsuntide Meet <strong>in</strong>1915, <strong>and</strong> the first <strong>in</strong>dication <strong>of</strong> the end <strong>of</strong> an era is the vot<strong>in</strong>g
-**^*W^ ^Cf»iZ^A PACK FROM THE CLUB MINUTE BOOK,COMMITTEE OF I C/IH NOVEMBER, 1909
F. H. F. Simpson 241<strong>in</strong> August, 1914, <strong>of</strong> £20 for the Pr<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>of</strong> Wales Relief Fund.Rule 3 was suspended to secure cont<strong>in</strong>ued tenure for the <strong>of</strong>ficebearers, <strong>and</strong> there was no balance sheet, for the Treasurer wasengaged upon special duties. The Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner was ab<strong>and</strong>oned;the <strong>publication</strong> <strong>of</strong> the Journal was to cont<strong>in</strong>ue — acourageous decision <strong>in</strong>deed.In 1915 the third volume <strong>of</strong> the Journal was completed. Thesethree volumes bear a period stamp more dist<strong>in</strong>ctive than that <strong>of</strong>any later group <strong>of</strong> volumes. There is evidence <strong>of</strong> experiment,<strong>of</strong> trial <strong>and</strong> error, <strong>and</strong> an overrid<strong>in</strong>g determ<strong>in</strong>ation to mirror theevents <strong>and</strong> places which the Club has loved throughout its life.Volume 1, bound <strong>in</strong> red buckram, is pr<strong>in</strong>ted on a semi - glossyart paper <strong>and</strong> weighs slightly under 3 lbs. It conta<strong>in</strong>s a strik<strong>in</strong>gnumber <strong>of</strong> tail pieces — the moon ris<strong>in</strong>g over trees — s<strong>in</strong>gle roseblossoms, float<strong>in</strong>g water lilies. Head pieces — if that is theappropriate opposite — are equally abundant. A few are <strong>of</strong>mounta<strong>in</strong>s, but the rest <strong>in</strong>cludes such charm<strong>in</strong>g irrelevancies assail<strong>in</strong>g boats at sea, shrubs <strong>in</strong> tubs, <strong>and</strong> a l<strong>and</strong>scape with trees,a cottage <strong>and</strong> what seems to be wash<strong>in</strong>g on a l<strong>in</strong>e. In the specimenreferred to the advertisements are preserved <strong>and</strong> the orig<strong>in</strong>alcovers are bound <strong>in</strong> at the end. Their rich red is unfaded. Theadvertisements tell their own story. Two <strong>of</strong> the lead<strong>in</strong>g hotels<strong>in</strong> Grasmere compete with attractions <strong>of</strong>fered for 10/- per day.Another near Ambleside, mentions no price but <strong>of</strong>fers suchadvantages as four-<strong>in</strong>-h<strong>and</strong> coaches, tea on the lawn, <strong>and</strong> a cycleshed. Climb<strong>in</strong>g boots <strong>of</strong> West End orig<strong>in</strong> are on sale at£2 5s. Od. A famous firm <strong>of</strong> waterpro<strong>of</strong> manufacturers <strong>of</strong>feredfor men a mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g outfit <strong>and</strong> for the ladies a mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>ggown. The reader is assured that thus equipped thehazardous occupation may be enjoyed to the full. A lady <strong>and</strong>gentleman pose condescend<strong>in</strong>gly on amenable rocks to demonstratethe truth <strong>of</strong> all that is said. She has slim ankles, a saucyhat <strong>and</strong> leg <strong>of</strong> mutton sleeves. He has a compell<strong>in</strong>g moustache,<strong>and</strong> a h<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> cloud below his heels; both carry someth<strong>in</strong>g toolong for a stair-rod <strong>and</strong> too th<strong>in</strong> for a spear — a billiard cue,perhaps? Seven pages <strong>of</strong> the volume are devoted to a list <strong>of</strong>hotels <strong>and</strong> farmhouses with particulars <strong>of</strong> tariffs; the averageprice per day at a farm is 5/-.Life appears to have been enjoyed to the full <strong>in</strong> the early days.The first number <strong>of</strong> the Journal records the success <strong>of</strong> the ClubMeets <strong>and</strong> a remarkable display <strong>of</strong> skill <strong>and</strong> energy by the MissesEvelyn <strong>and</strong> Annie Seatree at Wasdale on most <strong>of</strong> the major
242 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARScrags. Inevitably the death <strong>of</strong> John Wilson Rob<strong>in</strong>son <strong>in</strong>August, 1907, is mentioned <strong>in</strong> a lengthy notice by GeorgeSeatree. Such was his prom<strong>in</strong>ence <strong>in</strong> the small mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>gcircle <strong>of</strong> the day, that a permanent memorial was erected. Underthe Chairmanship <strong>of</strong> W. P. Haskett-Smith a sub-committee <strong>of</strong>twenty raised subscriptions for a bronze tablet to be placed upona rock out-crop at the end <strong>of</strong> the High Level route. At Eastera cairn was constructed <strong>and</strong> the tablet affixed <strong>in</strong> June. Thelatter occasion was one <strong>of</strong> torrential ra<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> widespread floods.The Christmas Meets <strong>of</strong> 1907 <strong>and</strong> 1908 at Wasdale wereextended to <strong>in</strong>clude New <strong>Year</strong> week-ends also. The Journalspeaks <strong>of</strong> the presence <strong>of</strong> thirty or forty members. Snow, ice,ra<strong>in</strong>, floods <strong>and</strong> gales were all experienced. With<strong>in</strong> the Clubquarters, however, there was music, s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> bridge. Billiardfives were played with dangerous vigour <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> one knock-outcompetition the Club triumphed over the best exponents <strong>of</strong> theAlp<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> Yorkshire Ramblers' Club.* The New <strong>Year</strong> wasadmitted ' by the darkest <strong>and</strong> most villa<strong>in</strong>ous look<strong>in</strong>g personpresent.' The Annual D<strong>in</strong>ners <strong>of</strong> the same years were attendedby upwards <strong>of</strong> sixty members <strong>and</strong> guests <strong>and</strong> the speeches arerecorded <strong>in</strong> full, a practice which was adhered to until the sixthAnnual D<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>in</strong> 1912.The War <strong>of</strong> 1914/18 struck hard at Club activities. Dur<strong>in</strong>gthe period <strong>of</strong> hostilities only seventeen Committee Meet<strong>in</strong>gs wereheld. The journal feature ' Committee Notes ' — a regularitem until 1915 — records the low ebb <strong>in</strong> Club activities <strong>in</strong> thesecond year <strong>of</strong> war. This was a state <strong>of</strong> affairs which did not*The scene <strong>of</strong> this historic pastime is now the lounge <strong>of</strong> the WastwaterHotel. Po<strong>in</strong>ts were scored by driv<strong>in</strong>g the ball by h<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>to the pockets;opponents at the opposite end <strong>of</strong> the table tried by h<strong>and</strong> to stop the ball.The speed <strong>and</strong> violence <strong>of</strong> the game wrought the progressive ru<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> thewalls <strong>and</strong> furniture. W<strong>in</strong>dows were defended with wire nett<strong>in</strong>g.G. D. Abraham refers, <strong>in</strong> The Complete Mounta<strong>in</strong>eer to 'the renownedbilliard table <strong>of</strong> ancient construction,' <strong>and</strong> L. J. Oppenheimer <strong>in</strong> TheHeart <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>, published <strong>in</strong> 1908, speaks <strong>of</strong> the uproar <strong>and</strong> wildcharg<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the players. Both authors describe the risk <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>jury tospectators. The story is told <strong>of</strong> a fly<strong>in</strong>g ball which bounced <strong>in</strong>to one <strong>of</strong>the several full beer mugs on the mantelpiece. No one knew which <strong>and</strong>an unnamed hero demolished the p<strong>in</strong>ts one by one until the ball wasfound. Oppenheimer describes a less hazardous occupation <strong>in</strong> a concise' guide' to the billiard room traverse. With feet on the wall <strong>and</strong> h<strong>and</strong>son the table the gymnast proceeded round the room to a severe mauvaispas by the door, f<strong>in</strong>ish<strong>in</strong>g with a back <strong>and</strong> foot pitch down the passage tothe smoke room. The billiard room was converted to its present useabout 1928.
F. H. F. Simpson 243prevail, because men <strong>in</strong> the forces came on leave <strong>and</strong> the firstthought <strong>of</strong> many <strong>of</strong> them, <strong>in</strong>deed <strong>of</strong> any one with the opportunity,was the next Club Meet. The Club met annually to despatchessential bus<strong>in</strong>ess, but the d<strong>in</strong>ners which followed them werequite <strong>in</strong>formal. A <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> Meets was planned each year.Wilson Butler assumed the treasurership <strong>in</strong> place <strong>of</strong> Alan Craigwho was pr<strong>of</strong>essionally engaged <strong>in</strong> war duties. At the AnnualGeneral Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> November, 1915, it was decided that memberson active service should be made honorary members <strong>of</strong> theClub for the duration <strong>of</strong> the war. It is recorded that <strong>in</strong>September, 1916, the accounts for the previous Club year werenot yet available <strong>and</strong> the Honorary Auditor was briefed topursue the busy ex-Treasurer for the details. On variousoccasions the Editor is found to be struggl<strong>in</strong>g with <strong>publication</strong>problems long after the chosen date. The Annual GeneralMeet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> 1917 was <strong>in</strong>formed that thirteen members had losttheir lives <strong>in</strong> the War. The suspension <strong>of</strong> Rule 3 was term<strong>in</strong>atedat the same meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> new Officers, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g P. S. M<strong>in</strong>oras President, were elected. The New <strong>Year</strong> Meet 1917-18, washeld <strong>in</strong> Langdale, <strong>and</strong> the Secretary reported to the Committeethat he had been required to guarantee an attendance <strong>of</strong> at leastten members to <strong>in</strong>duce the hotel proprietor to cater. Therequired total was not forthcom<strong>in</strong>g so the Committee resolvedthat any extra charge should be found out <strong>of</strong> the Club funds.One wonders if Dick Pl<strong>in</strong>t would enterta<strong>in</strong> a revival <strong>of</strong> thissensible procedure <strong>in</strong> any form. By September, 1918, the tempo<strong>of</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>ess was <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> after a lull <strong>of</strong> nearly six monthsthe Committee met, <strong>and</strong> among other th<strong>in</strong>gs dealt with theelection <strong>of</strong> seventeen new members. Throughout the war theJournal ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed the orig<strong>in</strong>al st<strong>and</strong>ard set by its Editor <strong>and</strong>the only sign <strong>of</strong> austerity is to be found <strong>in</strong> the cover <strong>of</strong> No. 12published by R. S. T. Chorley <strong>in</strong> 1919. Its cover is not <strong>in</strong> thefamiliar red, but a ghostly stewed plum. Inevitably the Journalconta<strong>in</strong>s a Roll <strong>of</strong> Honour <strong>in</strong> which memoirs appear <strong>of</strong> many <strong>of</strong>the men whose names are cast on the memorial tablet on GreatGable. In 1918 a list—no doubt <strong>in</strong>complete—named forty-fivemembers on active service.At the New <strong>Year</strong> Committee at Buttermere <strong>in</strong> 1919 attentionwas turned to a suitable method <strong>of</strong> honour<strong>in</strong>g those memberswho had fallen. Of the many forms <strong>of</strong> memorial discussed thatconsist<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> shelters or dug-outs adjo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g the pr<strong>in</strong>cipal cragsf<strong>in</strong>ally received approval. The Journal described what followed
244 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSas ' a regrettable storm ' which took the form <strong>of</strong> letters <strong>of</strong> protestaddressed, not only to the unfortunate Secretary, but also to theManchester Guardian. One alternative which was consideredwas a <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> pocket guide books prepared by a team skilled <strong>in</strong>various fields <strong>and</strong> cover<strong>in</strong>g not only climbs but such matters asbotany <strong>and</strong> zoology, hotels <strong>and</strong> farmhouses. Simultaneouslycame the most ambitious proposal <strong>of</strong> all — the purchase <strong>of</strong> acrag. The volume <strong>of</strong> objection to the first proposal promptedthe Committee to leave the next step to the Annual GeneralMeet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> 1919. This Meet<strong>in</strong>g appears to have debatednumerous schemes but the one which found favour was that proposedby H. P. Ca<strong>in</strong> for negotiat<strong>in</strong>g for the purchase <strong>of</strong> Pillar<strong>Rock</strong>. The Committee <strong>of</strong> March, 1920, voted £<strong>50</strong> to be <strong>of</strong>feredto Lord Lonsdale for the <strong>Rock</strong>, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g a right <strong>of</strong> way fromBlack Sail. The Lowther Estate Office wrote to say that hisLordship would not enterta<strong>in</strong> the suggestion. Canon Rawnsley'shelp was sought <strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>fluenc<strong>in</strong>g the owner. This approachhav<strong>in</strong>g also failed Dr. T. R. Burnett was asked to approach theowner <strong>of</strong> Great Gable with a view to secur<strong>in</strong>g certa<strong>in</strong> rights uponits summit with the object <strong>of</strong> present<strong>in</strong>g it to the National Trust.The M<strong>in</strong>utes are silent on the subject until September, 1922,when an encourag<strong>in</strong>g letter was received from the Solicitorsact<strong>in</strong>g for the Musgrave Estate. The approach was renewed byH. P. Ca<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> February, 1923, <strong>and</strong> a month later portions <strong>of</strong> thisestate came on the market. Lot 22 comprised Row Head Farm,960 acres, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the summit <strong>of</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong>. Darw<strong>in</strong>Leighton, the President at the time, <strong>and</strong> the Secretary wereempowered to negotiate. Bidd<strong>in</strong>g for the Lot stopped at £ 1,1<strong>50</strong><strong>and</strong> it was withdrawn. The ultimate purchaser <strong>of</strong> the wholeestate was Mr. H. W. Walker, <strong>of</strong> Seascale.Immediately after the failure <strong>of</strong> the Pillar venture, attentionhad been turned to the Needle alone, but the purchase <strong>of</strong> thewhole estate by Mr. Walker suddenly widened the possibilitiesbeyond the wildest dreams <strong>of</strong> the organisers, whose enthusiasmwas described by H. P. Ca<strong>in</strong> {Journal No. 17) as ' red hot.' TheEditor <strong>in</strong> ' The <strong>Year</strong> with the Club ' described this symptom as' Ca<strong>in</strong>'s compla<strong>in</strong>t.' Mr. Walker received a deputation consist<strong>in</strong>g<strong>of</strong> the President, H. P. Ca<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wilson Butler <strong>and</strong>though surprised at the proposal to purchase all l<strong>and</strong> above the1,<strong>50</strong>0 foot contour did not turn it down. In the meantimeR. S. T. Chorley <strong>and</strong> H. P. Ca<strong>in</strong> had seen the Secretary <strong>of</strong> theNational Trust who had expressed enthusiastic approval, the
F. H. F. Simpson 245more so as Lord Leconfield had transferred the summit <strong>of</strong> ScafellPike to the Trust, ' <strong>in</strong> perpetual memory <strong>of</strong> the men <strong>of</strong> theLake District.' The Committee <strong>of</strong> May, 1923, had the writtenassurance <strong>of</strong> the National Trust that it would accept thememorial on any conditions the Club cared to impose <strong>and</strong>, thusencouraged, appo<strong>in</strong>ted a sub-committee : the President, H. P.Ca<strong>in</strong>, W. Butler <strong>and</strong> L. W. Somervell — with power to sign acontract.A memorial tablet was considered <strong>and</strong> a circular approved forcall<strong>in</strong>g upon members for personal contributions. The fundsoon rose to £570 subscribed by 335 members. The f<strong>in</strong>al design<strong>of</strong> tablet was agreed <strong>in</strong> September, 1923, <strong>and</strong> the M<strong>in</strong>utes set outthe dedication <strong>and</strong> the names <strong>of</strong> twenty members which followit. The cost <strong>of</strong> the f<strong>in</strong>ished tablet was estimated at £30.W. G. Coll<strong>in</strong>gwood was entrusted with the modell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> collaborationwith Miss Coll<strong>in</strong>gwood.The follow<strong>in</strong>g month the legal side <strong>of</strong> the project was more orless complete. The owner agreed to the 1,<strong>50</strong>0 foot contour levelprovided the l<strong>in</strong>e was adjusted to <strong>in</strong>clude Kern Knotts butexclude the Styhead summit. Although the Committee M<strong>in</strong>utesspeak constantly <strong>of</strong> Great Gable, the documents <strong>of</strong> title h<strong>and</strong>edover to the National Trust at Coniston <strong>in</strong> October, 1923, coveredover 3,000 acres <strong>of</strong> open fell above 1,<strong>50</strong>0 feet, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g with<strong>in</strong>the Wasdale <strong>and</strong> Borrowdale watersheds, Kirkfell, Great Gable,Green Gable, Grey Knotts, Base Brown, Seathwaite <strong>Fell</strong>, Glaramara,Allen Crags, Great End, Broad Crag <strong>and</strong> L<strong>in</strong>gmell.*In November, 1923, the Committee approved a plastic model<strong>of</strong> the tablet <strong>and</strong> authority was given to <strong>in</strong>vite the Pr<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>of</strong>Wales to perform the unveil<strong>in</strong>g ceremony, <strong>and</strong> the ReverendJ. H. Smith to conduct the service, on Whit Sunday, 1924. ThePr<strong>in</strong>ce was unable to accept the <strong>in</strong>vitation <strong>and</strong> the f<strong>in</strong>al choice*The acreage was thought to be correct at the time, but B. L. Thompson<strong>in</strong> his book, The Lake District <strong>and</strong> the National Trust, makes an<strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g disclosure. The whole <strong>of</strong> the l<strong>and</strong> was understood <strong>in</strong> 1924 tobe freehold <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> private ownership, <strong>and</strong> it was not until 1944, when theTrust acquired Seathwaite Farm, that a large area <strong>of</strong> the orig<strong>in</strong>al gift wasfound to be part <strong>of</strong> Borrowdale Common, <strong>and</strong> this, accord<strong>in</strong>g to the map<strong>in</strong> the same book, comprised all the l<strong>and</strong> ly<strong>in</strong>g North <strong>and</strong> East <strong>of</strong> a l<strong>in</strong>ejo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g Angle Tarn, Spr<strong>in</strong>kl<strong>in</strong>g Tarn <strong>and</strong> Styhead Tarn. The Club's giftwas, therefore, not 3,000 acres but 1,184 acres. The case <strong>of</strong> the benefactorwho purchases l<strong>and</strong> from someone who does not own it <strong>and</strong> purportsto give to the Public someth<strong>in</strong>g which it already has, must rema<strong>in</strong>the sport <strong>of</strong> lawyers.
246 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSfell upon the President, Dr. A. W. Wakefield. Benson Walker,<strong>of</strong> Cockermouth, was chosen to fix the tablet <strong>and</strong> Dr. T. R.Burnett was asked to make absolutely certa<strong>in</strong> that the rock faceimmediately below the cairn on the western side was with<strong>in</strong> theClub's boundary. By April the Committee was able to legislatefor the transport <strong>of</strong> the tablet to Borrowdale <strong>and</strong> thence to thesummit on 6th June. Every detail was carefully considered.Invitations to the relatives <strong>of</strong> the fallen, the order <strong>of</strong> the service,<strong>and</strong> such practical matters as the type <strong>of</strong> attach<strong>in</strong>g screw for thetablet. The order <strong>of</strong> service was to be sealed <strong>in</strong> a leaden walletbeh<strong>in</strong>d the tablet. On the eve <strong>of</strong> the ceremony the Committeeresolved to communicate its sense <strong>of</strong> gratitude for their wholeheartedservice <strong>in</strong> the scheme to B. S. Harlow, G. W. Young,Wilson Butler, W. G. Coll<strong>in</strong>gwood, the Reverend J. H. Smith<strong>and</strong> Comm<strong>and</strong>er Michaelson (who had provided for the ceremonya flag flown at the Battle <strong>of</strong> Jutl<strong>and</strong>). As the undertak<strong>in</strong>gpassed through its f<strong>in</strong>al stages another was be<strong>in</strong>g perfected <strong>and</strong>,<strong>in</strong> October, 1924, the Committee recorded congratulations toA. C. Benson <strong>and</strong> Gordon Wordsworth on their acquisition <strong>of</strong>Scafell <strong>and</strong> its h<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g over to the National Trust.The ceremony had received advance publicity through thePress Association, so that it was not surpris<strong>in</strong>g that about <strong>50</strong>0persons gathered on Gable summit <strong>in</strong> cloud <strong>and</strong> light ra<strong>in</strong>.Arthur Wakefield stood beside the flag <strong>of</strong> H.M.S. Barham <strong>and</strong>recalled the purpose <strong>of</strong> the Club <strong>in</strong> commemorat<strong>in</strong>g its fallencomrades, <strong>and</strong> next described the great mounta<strong>in</strong> park which laybelow <strong>and</strong> around. Ge<strong>of</strong>frey W. Young followed with a specialtribute. The spirit <strong>of</strong> the Nation which sprang from victory isalive <strong>in</strong> his conclud<strong>in</strong>g words:—' By this symbol we affirm a tw<strong>of</strong>old trust: that which hillsalone can give their children, the discipl<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> strength <strong>in</strong>freedom, the free<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the spirit through generous service,these free hills shall give aga<strong>in</strong> for all time.The memory <strong>of</strong> all that these children <strong>of</strong> the hills havegiven—service, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>spiration, fulfilled <strong>and</strong> perpetual—thisfree heart <strong>of</strong> our hills shall guard.'G. A. Solly read Psalm 121. H. P. Ca<strong>in</strong> read out the<strong>in</strong>scription <strong>and</strong> the names <strong>of</strong> the fallen. The flag fell away <strong>and</strong>the buglers <strong>of</strong> St. Bees School Cadets sounded the ' Last Post.'The task was complete after almost six years. In view <strong>of</strong> theimpetus which it surely gave to the subsequent successful
F. H. F. Simpson 247development <strong>of</strong> the National Park movement, it was a mostsignificant stage <strong>in</strong> Club history. Today, thirty-two years later,this memorial forms part <strong>of</strong> the Lake District National Park<strong>and</strong> commemorates the dead <strong>of</strong> another generation which als<strong>of</strong>ought for freedom.Undoubtedly the war memorial project dom<strong>in</strong>ated the work <strong>of</strong>the adm<strong>in</strong>istration for several years, but there were, however,other developments go<strong>in</strong>g on simultaneously which are deserv<strong>in</strong>g<strong>of</strong> notice. The dragon <strong>of</strong> the Styhead motor-road was breath<strong>in</strong>gfire aga<strong>in</strong>, as it was to do from time to time thereafter, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>1919 the Easter Committee passed several Resolutions designedto destroy it. In the same year R. B. Domony, for long theClub's Honorary Auditor, tendered his resignation, <strong>and</strong> Messrs.R. F. Miller <strong>and</strong> Co., <strong>of</strong> Barrow, were appo<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> his stead.This firm has cont<strong>in</strong>ued to serve the Club until the present day.Peace Day had to be celebrated <strong>in</strong> a proper manner <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> May,1919, £<strong>50</strong> was voted to a sub-committee for the purchase <strong>of</strong>' flares, etc' The story <strong>of</strong> this adventure is well told {JournalNo. 13) by E. H. P. Scantlebury. The prime mover was abody bear<strong>in</strong>g the impressive name <strong>of</strong> the ' Peace CelebrationBeacons <strong>and</strong> Bonfires Committee,' <strong>and</strong> it entrusted to the Clubthe bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>of</strong> illum<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g Engl<strong>and</strong>'s highest summit.The Clubentered <strong>in</strong>to the task with enthusiasm, <strong>and</strong> eight flares weigh<strong>in</strong>g100 lbs. each were carried from Langdale via the Stake to themounta<strong>in</strong>. Carts were used to the foot <strong>of</strong> Stake, <strong>and</strong> ponies toEsk Hause, where a dump was made. A week later a 20-footflag pole weigh<strong>in</strong>g 40 lbs. was carried up. The decorations<strong>and</strong> explosives were duly established by the cairn <strong>and</strong> on the 19thJuly, 1919, the flares, with rockets, were discharged withoutmishap. A coal fire was made <strong>and</strong> tea brewed <strong>in</strong> the shelter,which, designed for a dozen, held forty-five, who waited for asunrise as f<strong>in</strong>e as the sunset, only to be disappo<strong>in</strong>ted.The Club cont<strong>in</strong>ued to grow slowly <strong>and</strong> c<strong>and</strong>idates were consideredat almost every Committee Meet<strong>in</strong>g. A movement totransfer the D<strong>in</strong>ner Meet to the Hydro at W<strong>in</strong>dermere to allowfor this steady growth was unsuccessful <strong>and</strong> Coniston becamethe venue once aga<strong>in</strong>; 113 people sat down to D<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>in</strong> circumstancesgenerally admitted to be ' a tight fit.' ' The <strong>Year</strong>with the Club '—a record <strong>of</strong> activities at Meets, appears for thefirst time <strong>in</strong> Journal No. 12 <strong>in</strong> 1919, <strong>and</strong> its repeated appearanceleaves no doubt that the Club cont<strong>in</strong>ued to enjoy itself.
248 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSIn March, 1920, H. F. Huntley, after consultation with otherexiles, <strong>in</strong>vited the Committee to approve the formation <strong>of</strong> a ClubBranch for the benefit <strong>of</strong> London members. A local subcommitteewas formed <strong>and</strong> the Londoners worked so quietlythat their activities are not mentioned aga<strong>in</strong> until Decemberwhen the London Section is first so described <strong>in</strong> the M<strong>in</strong>utes<strong>and</strong> its formation hailed with satisfaction. Like the good climbersthey were, the Section set about organis<strong>in</strong>g a D<strong>in</strong>ner, with suchsuccess that larger floor space than <strong>in</strong> Gatti's restaurant had to besought at the last m<strong>in</strong>ute. Eighty-five people were catered for<strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> the expected forty <strong>and</strong> an over-flow downstairs solvedthe problem — as it did aga<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> Keswick thirty-three years later.A substantial list <strong>of</strong> Meets was worked out call<strong>in</strong>g for earlyris<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> the cover<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> some considerable distances <strong>in</strong> theHome Counties dur<strong>in</strong>g a year <strong>of</strong> weather which was, <strong>in</strong> thecurrent Journal, described as ' simply f<strong>in</strong>e.' The Sectionreported on itself through the Secretary <strong>and</strong> the first fivemeet<strong>in</strong>gs were held <strong>in</strong> Dr. C. F. Hadfield's flat. Dr. Hadfieldwas appo<strong>in</strong>ted Chairman at its <strong>in</strong>ception <strong>and</strong> that he cont<strong>in</strong>ues<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice <strong>in</strong> the Jubilee year is a major record.The Committee <strong>of</strong> May, 1920, did two th<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>of</strong> note. Firstit established a Club room <strong>in</strong> Barrow at an annual rent <strong>of</strong> £ 15,an arrangement which only lasted a short time; secondly, itelected one new member, J. C. Appleyard, who has endured tothe Club's constant advantage. The Annual Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>November, 1920, dealt with two novel items, the first theelection <strong>of</strong> ladies to Committee, <strong>and</strong> the second a qualificationfor membership. The debate on the last item showed a division<strong>of</strong> op<strong>in</strong>ion which prompted an adjournment for twelve months.The first, however, was carried with enthusiasm <strong>and</strong> the firstthree c<strong>and</strong>idates were Miss E. F. Harl<strong>and</strong> (later to become Mrs.J. C. Appleyard), Mrs. Kelly <strong>and</strong> Miss Dorothy Pilley. InOctober, 1921, came some significant changes. New rules werepassed requir<strong>in</strong>g the submission <strong>of</strong> a list <strong>of</strong> expeditions by c<strong>and</strong>idates,the discretion <strong>of</strong> the Committee as to their election be<strong>in</strong>gabsolute. The Committee was <strong>in</strong>creased from seven to twelveord<strong>in</strong>ary members <strong>and</strong> subscriptions rose to 10/- with anentrance fee at the same figure <strong>and</strong>, for the first time, the Committeereceived express power <strong>of</strong> expulsion <strong>of</strong> members guilty <strong>of</strong>conduct detrimental to the <strong>in</strong>terests <strong>and</strong> status <strong>of</strong> the Club. Provisionwas also made for a ballot for guests at the Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner<strong>and</strong> this new complication <strong>in</strong> the social life <strong>of</strong> the Club was dis-
F. H. F. Simpson 249cussed by the Committee at the Mortal Man, Troutbeck, <strong>in</strong>November, 1921. The congestion at the D<strong>in</strong>ner Meet hadalready made it necessary to have the bus<strong>in</strong>ess meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> theClub at the Black Bull, Coniston, <strong>and</strong> the Troutbeck Committeeresolved to beg<strong>in</strong> educat<strong>in</strong>g the Club to a change <strong>of</strong> venue <strong>in</strong>W<strong>in</strong>dermere. The school<strong>in</strong>g was, however, a slow process <strong>and</strong>the D<strong>in</strong>ner Meets <strong>of</strong> 1923 <strong>and</strong> 1924 took place <strong>in</strong> Coniston asbefore.In February, 1922, at the Coniston Meet an <strong>in</strong>formal D<strong>in</strong>nerwas given <strong>in</strong> honour <strong>of</strong> Dr. T. H. Somervell <strong>and</strong> Dr. A. W.Wakefield on the eve <strong>of</strong> their departure on the Everest Expedition<strong>of</strong> that year. Their efforts on this Expedition earned themwell deserved honorary membership <strong>and</strong> a degree <strong>of</strong> immortality<strong>in</strong> a song written for the occasion by John Hirst, who was thenestablish<strong>in</strong>g himself as the Club bard. It was sung at the d<strong>in</strong>nerto an air from lolanthe, <strong>and</strong> is repr<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> Journal No. 48.Concern was expressed <strong>in</strong> February, 1924, at the size <strong>of</strong>membership, the pressure upon accommodation <strong>and</strong> uponhonorary <strong>of</strong>ficials. The Committee recoiled from the restriction<strong>of</strong> numbers—one <strong>of</strong> the fears voiced was that a rivalorganisation might be set up! There is only one piece <strong>of</strong>evidence to suggest that the Committee tightened up, for thetime be<strong>in</strong>g at least, the st<strong>and</strong>ard <strong>of</strong> qualification, for it isrecorded that the election <strong>of</strong> one lady c<strong>and</strong>idate was to beapproved ' subject to her form be<strong>in</strong>g found acceptable .'At the next Committee Meet<strong>in</strong>g the Secretary solemnly <strong>in</strong>formedthe members that ' Mrs. 's form was all right.'The proposal <strong>of</strong> Dr. T. R. Burnett <strong>in</strong> 1924 that the Clubshould have a badge was received enthusiastically <strong>and</strong> H. P. Ca<strong>in</strong>undertook to secure designs. A choice was made with<strong>in</strong> threemonths <strong>and</strong> an order placed for 600 at 9^d. each. The badgeswere consecutively numbered. In that year 116 people werecrushed <strong>in</strong>to the Sun Hotel for the D<strong>in</strong>ner which was <strong>in</strong>terruptedfor the election to honorary membership <strong>of</strong> Brig. Gen. the Hon.C. G. Bruce, Lt. Col. E. F. Norton, N. E. Odell <strong>and</strong> our ownmember, Bentley Beetham, who had dist<strong>in</strong>guished themselves onEverest.Another post-war undertak<strong>in</strong>g concurrent with the memorialscheme was the preparation <strong>of</strong> the first <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Rock</strong> Climb<strong>in</strong>gGuides. They were published <strong>in</strong> successive journals. The firstto appear was 'Doe Crags <strong>and</strong> Coniston ' <strong>in</strong> 1922 by G. S.Bower. ' Pillar <strong>Rock</strong> <strong>and</strong> Neighbourhood ' by H. M. Kelly
2<strong>50</strong> THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSfollowed <strong>in</strong> 1923. ' The Scawfell Group ' was published <strong>in</strong>1924 under the authorship <strong>of</strong> C. F. Holl<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> ' Great Gable '<strong>and</strong> 'Borrowdale' appeared <strong>in</strong> 1925; the first named area wasby C. F. Holl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> the second by A. R. Thompson. ' GreatLangdale <strong>and</strong> Neighbourhood ' appeared <strong>in</strong> 1926 <strong>and</strong> was preparedby George Basterfield. This last issue <strong>in</strong>cluded ' TheButtermere Area ' by A. R. Thompson <strong>and</strong> ' Outly<strong>in</strong>g Climbs 'by R. S. T. Chorley. The <strong>in</strong>tensification <strong>of</strong> the search forpastures new s<strong>in</strong>ce those early days may be judged from the factthat there were at that time only eleven outly<strong>in</strong>g climbs recorded.The Guides were also pr<strong>in</strong>ted separately <strong>and</strong> were covered <strong>in</strong>' Club Red ' with a leatherette outer cas<strong>in</strong>g. The work followedno set pattern. Bower <strong>and</strong> Basterfield adopted the attitude <strong>of</strong> acheerful schoolmaster teach<strong>in</strong>g a class, while the other authorswere more matter-<strong>of</strong>-fact. The pattern <strong>of</strong> pitch-by-pitch identificationwith telegraphic <strong>in</strong>structions adopted by H. M. Kelly hass<strong>in</strong>ce become the model for both the later <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> Guides —<strong>in</strong>deed for almost any Guide published anywhere.The big event <strong>of</strong> 1926 was the celebration <strong>of</strong> the Centenary<strong>of</strong> the first ascent <strong>of</strong> Pillar <strong>Rock</strong>. The Committee decided <strong>in</strong>January to notify members <strong>and</strong> k<strong>in</strong>dred Clubs that there wouldbe a pilgrimage to the <strong>Rock</strong> on Easter Monday. Sir H. W.Beveridge describes the occasion <strong>in</strong> Journal No. 20 as an' hilarious affair ' <strong>in</strong> which at least one silk hat was worn. Allsorts <strong>and</strong> conditions <strong>of</strong> climbers arrived at the top <strong>and</strong> descendedaga<strong>in</strong> without mishap.The struggles <strong>of</strong> the Club's adm<strong>in</strong>istrators to keep the AnnualD<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>in</strong> the village <strong>of</strong> the Club's birth make enterta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gread<strong>in</strong>g. Early <strong>in</strong> 1925 Dr. T. R. Burnett <strong>and</strong> L. W. Somervelltoured Coniston <strong>in</strong> search <strong>of</strong> elbow room <strong>and</strong> reported that theInstitute was the most suitable build<strong>in</strong>g outside the Sun Hotel.The proprietor <strong>of</strong> the Sun Hotel attended the CommitteeMeet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> expla<strong>in</strong>ed that noth<strong>in</strong>g more ambitious could be<strong>of</strong>fered <strong>in</strong> the Institute than hot soup <strong>and</strong> potatoes <strong>and</strong> the usualcold dishes. Disappo<strong>in</strong>ted, the Committee contemplated contract<strong>in</strong>gwith outside cater<strong>in</strong>g firms. A marquee on the SunHotel terrace was rejected as the organisers knew someth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>the hazards <strong>of</strong> the climate. Four cater<strong>in</strong>g firms were asked totender. Those <strong>in</strong> London <strong>and</strong> York decl<strong>in</strong>ed on account <strong>of</strong> thedistance <strong>and</strong> the replies from the others prompted a return to theold system with an absolute maximum <strong>of</strong> 116 people. Ithappened, however, that twenty-four d<strong>in</strong>ers had to eat their
F. H. F. Simpson 251d<strong>in</strong>ners elsewhere <strong>in</strong> Coniston <strong>and</strong> the search was on aga<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>1926. A deputation sounded the proprietor <strong>of</strong> the WaterheadHotel <strong>and</strong> a suitable room was found ' <strong>in</strong> a disused condition,over the stables.' The normal hotel accommodation ran to only120 persons <strong>and</strong> it was arranged that the owner should clean up<strong>and</strong> decorate the room <strong>and</strong> that the Club should provide a hotplate <strong>and</strong> foot the bill for electric light<strong>in</strong>g. The bill for theprevious D<strong>in</strong>ner called for payment for 116 meals <strong>and</strong> theM<strong>in</strong>utes observe that only 110 people attended. This newsymptom <strong>of</strong> disorder was noted for the future <strong>and</strong> the bill wasduly discharged. The estimate for light<strong>in</strong>g the newly discoveredroom with electric light came to £8. This, with an <strong>in</strong>creasedcater<strong>in</strong>g quotation, brought the venture to a sudden end. Tentativearrangements were made with the Sun Hotel to provided<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>in</strong> the Institute <strong>and</strong> the Institute Committee were to <strong>in</strong>stala suitable cook<strong>in</strong>g range. Unhappily, the Institute's f<strong>in</strong>anceswould not st<strong>and</strong> the stra<strong>in</strong>, so the Club Committee voted up to£100 from capital for a cook<strong>in</strong>g range. Two suitable rangeseach 6 ft. long were placed on order, <strong>and</strong> plans appeared to berunn<strong>in</strong>g smoothly when, at the last m<strong>in</strong>ute, the Institute Committeemade the fitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the ranges conditional upon thesupply<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> hot water, a piece <strong>of</strong> magic beyond the powers <strong>of</strong>those concerned. In some desperation the organisers appealedto Miss Briggs, <strong>of</strong> the W<strong>in</strong>dermere Hydro, <strong>and</strong> the Club d<strong>in</strong>edthere for the first time on 9th October, 1926.1927 was a milestone <strong>in</strong> the Club's history. It atta<strong>in</strong>ed itsmajority <strong>and</strong> the event was duly celebrated. H. P. Ca<strong>in</strong> hadbeen elected President at the Annual Meet<strong>in</strong>g at Coniston on10th October, 1925. J. C. Appleyard was appo<strong>in</strong>ted Secretaryon the retirement <strong>of</strong> L. W. Somervell <strong>in</strong> May, 1926. In thesame month R. S. T. Chorley, who had been Editor <strong>of</strong> theJournal s<strong>in</strong>ce the end <strong>of</strong> the War, announced his <strong>in</strong>tention toresign, Mrs. K. C. Chorley hav<strong>in</strong>g previously expressed herwill<strong>in</strong>gness to take on the task. The formal change <strong>of</strong> responsibilitydid not, however, take place until the Annual Meet<strong>in</strong>gon 8th October, 1927, <strong>and</strong> as a result the Journal for the 21stBirthday <strong>Year</strong> was jo<strong>in</strong>tly edited by Mr. <strong>and</strong> Mrs. Chorley. Thebirthday celebrations <strong>and</strong> the preparations for them are onlydirectly referred to once <strong>in</strong> the M<strong>in</strong>utes, when, on 1st January,1927—described as 'the 21st Birthday <strong>Year</strong> '—H. P. Ca<strong>in</strong> wasnom<strong>in</strong>ated for a second year as President, ' that the Club mightthus show their esteem <strong>and</strong> gratitude to him for his services <strong>in</strong>
252 T H E FIRST FIFTY YEARSregard to the purchase <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Fell</strong>s for a Club War Memorial,<strong>and</strong> also for the work he had done for the Club <strong>in</strong> the past.' Asis well known a grievous blow was struck at this excellent <strong>in</strong>tentionwhen the President died suddenly <strong>in</strong> Langdale on 19thMarch, 1927. Dr. T. R. Burnett was nom<strong>in</strong>ated to the vacantPresidency.Brig. Gen. the Hon. C. G. Bruce was named as a guest <strong>of</strong>honour; all past Presidents <strong>and</strong> Mr. <strong>and</strong> Mrs. E. H. P. Scantleburywere also to be guests <strong>of</strong> the Club. Miss Briggs, <strong>of</strong> theHydro, promised seat<strong>in</strong>g for 200 d<strong>in</strong>ers <strong>and</strong> beds for 1<strong>50</strong>. TheCommittee <strong>in</strong> July, 1927, decided to elect E. H. P. Sc<strong>and</strong>eburyan honorary member. Provision was made for the writ<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> apress report, <strong>and</strong> a group photograph <strong>of</strong> members <strong>and</strong> guests.The Annual Meet<strong>in</strong>g dashed <strong>of</strong>f its agenda to the tune <strong>of</strong> threepages <strong>of</strong> M<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>and</strong> the Secretary left three more pages blank<strong>in</strong> case anyth<strong>in</strong>g unexpected happened. The Hydro d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g roomwas crammed to the doors. Twelve k<strong>in</strong>dred clubs were represented.A special three-tier cake over 2ft. high confronted Dr.T. R. Burnett with twenty-one c<strong>and</strong>les round its rim. TheJournal tells us that Mrs. Burnett cut the cake with an ice axe<strong>and</strong> through the applause ' came the riotous melody <strong>of</strong> H. E.Scott's t<strong>in</strong> horn.' A. P. Abraham, the first President, proposedthe toast <strong>of</strong> the Club. Darw<strong>in</strong> Leighton sang the orig<strong>in</strong>al Clubsong <strong>and</strong> John Hirst the one we have all heard so <strong>of</strong>ten s<strong>in</strong>ce,' When I was ly<strong>in</strong>g awake <strong>in</strong> Bed, etc' Other speakers followed.John Hirst then sang for the first time to the air <strong>of</strong> ' The LeatherBottel,' his own verses entitled ' The <strong>Rock</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Fell</strong>,' with twoextra verses pok<strong>in</strong>g fun at General Bruce <strong>and</strong> the President.F<strong>in</strong>ally Scott proposed the health <strong>of</strong> the President with hiscustomary disregard for the rules, a characteristic which causedhim to be described <strong>in</strong> a contemporary report as ' the <strong>of</strong>ficial<strong>in</strong>sulter to the Club.' Six past Presidents attended the Meet, asdid twelve orig<strong>in</strong>al members, <strong>and</strong> also present were six participators<strong>in</strong> the first Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner at Kendal. The weather waswonderful <strong>and</strong> members ranged as far afield as Dow Crag <strong>and</strong>Blencathra.This event over the Club reverted to normal habits <strong>and</strong> for anumber <strong>of</strong> years there is noth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the way <strong>of</strong> a major historicalevent. The possibility <strong>of</strong> purchas<strong>in</strong>g first Bow <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong>secondly Hobcarton—this last a revival—came <strong>and</strong> vanished fromthe Committee's horizon. Born before their time were two otherideas—both to vanish almost at once. The purchase <strong>of</strong> Wasdale
F. H. F. Simpson 253Vicarage as a Club Headquarters was considered <strong>in</strong>advisable onaccount <strong>of</strong> the high operat<strong>in</strong>g cost, <strong>and</strong> Down-<strong>in</strong>-the-Dale wasdismissed as unsuitable. Dr. T. R. Burnett proposed a Club tiebut the Committee, after a debate, voted aga<strong>in</strong>st it. In 1928there was a move to change the colour <strong>of</strong> the Journal cover toblue or green — but the conservative element prevailed. InOctober, 1929, F. Lawson Cook, then President <strong>of</strong> the Wayfarers'Club, announced the recent completion <strong>of</strong> the RobertsonLamb Hut <strong>and</strong> extended to <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong> members the advantages<strong>of</strong> us<strong>in</strong>g it dur<strong>in</strong>g Langdale meets. This friendly gesturecan be described as a straw <strong>in</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>d <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> the spr<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> 1930came another; two dwell<strong>in</strong>ghouses adjo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g the ElterwaterGunpowder Factory came on the market <strong>and</strong> the Club was<strong>in</strong>vited to consider purchas<strong>in</strong>g — ' resolved that no action betaken.' An Extraord<strong>in</strong>ary General Meet<strong>in</strong>g was held <strong>in</strong> Borrowdale<strong>in</strong> May, 1931, to provide for a f<strong>in</strong>ancial year end<strong>in</strong>g on 20thJuly <strong>and</strong> the Annual Meet<strong>in</strong>g to occur between 1st September<strong>and</strong> 30th November. The purpose beh<strong>in</strong>d this manoeuvreappears to have been to advance the D<strong>in</strong>ner Meet to the lastweek <strong>of</strong> September to accommodate the Hydro Managementwhose staff grew uneasy at the end <strong>of</strong> what is still so oddly describedas ' the season.'When the Club met <strong>in</strong> October, 1932, authority was givenfor the preparation <strong>of</strong> a new climb<strong>in</strong>g Guide <strong>and</strong> at its nextMeet<strong>in</strong>g the Committee decided the <strong>publication</strong> should not bepart <strong>of</strong> the Journal, that it should be <strong>in</strong> pocket form, <strong>and</strong> thatH. M. Kelly head a sub-committee as Editor-<strong>in</strong>-chief. The firstvolume was <strong>in</strong>tended to be ready <strong>in</strong> September, 1935, <strong>and</strong> thispromise was fulfilled. The st<strong>and</strong>ard <strong>and</strong> system adopted byH. M. Kelly <strong>in</strong> the first Pillar Guide was adopted for the whole<strong>series</strong>. Early <strong>in</strong> 1933 the new feature was debated several timesbut there was silence until November, 1934, when the GuideEditor is recorded as announc<strong>in</strong>g that the Pillar Guide was <strong>in</strong> thepress. ' Pillar <strong>Rock</strong> <strong>and</strong> Neighbourhood,' by H. M. Kelly,hav<strong>in</strong>g appeared <strong>in</strong> 1935, the rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g numbers followedquickly. The ' Scafell Group,' by A. T. Hargreaves, was published<strong>in</strong> 1936, ' Great Gable, Borrowdale <strong>and</strong> Buttermere,' byC. J. Astley Cooper, E. Wood-Johnson <strong>and</strong> L. H. Pollittrespectively <strong>in</strong> 1937, <strong>and</strong> ' Dow Crag, Great Langdale <strong>and</strong> Outly<strong>in</strong>gCrags,' the first area by A. T. Hargreaves <strong>and</strong> S. H. Cross,the second by W. Clegg <strong>and</strong> the third by C. J. Astley Cooper <strong>and</strong>E. Wood-Johnson appeared <strong>in</strong> 1938. Pioneers had been busy
254 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSs<strong>in</strong>ce the <strong>publication</strong> <strong>of</strong> the first <strong>series</strong>; not only had the pr<strong>in</strong>cipalareas been developed but the outly<strong>in</strong>g climbs numbered thirtyeight.Each Guide was illustrated by the always wonderful <strong>and</strong>now familiar pencil draw<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>of</strong> W. Heaton Cooper.On the 4th November, 1933, the Committee <strong>in</strong> contemplat<strong>in</strong>gthe surplus funds <strong>of</strong> the Club took what was to prove a mostmomentous decision. This is the record: ' It was proposed byH. M. Kelly, seconded by Dr. M. M. Barker <strong>and</strong> carried, that asub-committee consist<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Messrs. A. T. Hargreaves, A. B.Hargreaves <strong>and</strong> W. Clegg be appo<strong>in</strong>ted to <strong>in</strong>vestigate the possibilities<strong>of</strong> a Club hut.' This sub-committee naturally grewgreatly <strong>in</strong> size <strong>and</strong> at one time most <strong>of</strong> the Club's best bra<strong>in</strong>sjo<strong>in</strong>ed to add their <strong>in</strong>genuity <strong>and</strong> experience to a project whichis now a reality preoccupy<strong>in</strong>g a team <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficers under the Hut<strong>and</strong> Meets Secretary, <strong>and</strong> the natural pride <strong>of</strong> the Club. Threemonths later the Committee was <strong>in</strong>formed that the best site wasWasdale but that the acquisition <strong>of</strong> a site, <strong>and</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g on it,was not go<strong>in</strong>g to be very easy. A whole year went by <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>March, 1935, the President, W. G. Milligan, made a full reporton the unadvertised activities <strong>of</strong> the sub-committee. It wasdecided by five votes to two with three abstentions that Wasdalewas the place <strong>and</strong> Brackenclose Wood the site. The President<strong>and</strong> Dr. T. R. Burnett were authorised to <strong>in</strong>terview LordLeconfield's Agent. This deputation discussed with the Agentthe purchase <strong>of</strong> one <strong>and</strong> a half acres <strong>and</strong> a probable price, £ 1<strong>50</strong>.The President reported <strong>in</strong> April, 1935, on the plans which hadbeen prepared for a hut accommodat<strong>in</strong>g forty men <strong>and</strong> twentywomen. Authority was given for the draft<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> a circular tomembers. This document was ready about August, 1935; <strong>in</strong> itthe site was described by H. M. Kelly <strong>and</strong> the build<strong>in</strong>g by F.Lawson Cook with architect's plans <strong>and</strong> elevations as illustration.The design was more ambitious than the f<strong>in</strong>ished article.The dormitories were capable <strong>of</strong> hold<strong>in</strong>g nearly sixty people.A. B. Hargreaves expla<strong>in</strong>ed the f<strong>in</strong>ancial problems <strong>and</strong> thetarget <strong>of</strong> the appeal was £3,<strong>50</strong>0, <strong>of</strong> which £160 was allocatedto the site, £2,2<strong>50</strong> to the build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> the balance to watersupply, dra<strong>in</strong>age <strong>and</strong> equipment. Members were given a choice<strong>in</strong> the matter <strong>of</strong> subscrib<strong>in</strong>g, by outright gift, returnable subscriptionor loans at 4% <strong>in</strong>terest. The Annual Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>October, 1935, gave the project its bless<strong>in</strong>g, but there was someargument regard<strong>in</strong>g f<strong>in</strong>ance <strong>and</strong> it was f<strong>in</strong>ally agreed thatcapital contribution from the Club funds should be limited to
F. H. F. Simpson 255the purchase <strong>of</strong> the site. By December, 1935, £1,667 had beenpromised <strong>and</strong> a less ambitious project was approved for abuild<strong>in</strong>g cost<strong>in</strong>g £1,<strong>50</strong>0 <strong>and</strong> accommodat<strong>in</strong>g eighteen men <strong>and</strong>n<strong>in</strong>e women. Work was begun on 10th August, 1936, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>September the members received a progress report record<strong>in</strong>g theacceptance <strong>of</strong> the tender <strong>of</strong> Thomas Tyson, <strong>of</strong> Eskdale, <strong>and</strong>call<strong>in</strong>g for a renewed effort to clear the figure <strong>of</strong> £2,000. Thegrowth <strong>of</strong> the build<strong>in</strong>g fired the enthusiasm not only <strong>of</strong> the lukewarmbut <strong>of</strong> some <strong>of</strong> the opposition <strong>and</strong> called forth acts <strong>of</strong>generosity from many members. Among these were <strong>of</strong>fers fromG. R. Speaker to pay for a shower-bath <strong>in</strong>stallation, <strong>of</strong> Mrs.R. S. T. Chorley to furnish the liv<strong>in</strong>g-room <strong>in</strong> memory <strong>of</strong> herfather <strong>and</strong> uncles, who were all Lake District climb<strong>in</strong>g pioneers.The Hut Fund rose to £1,880 <strong>in</strong> the spr<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> 1937 <strong>and</strong> sixmonths later stood at £1,979, exclud<strong>in</strong>g gifts <strong>in</strong> k<strong>in</strong>d. From along deliberation on hut rules, two desirable arrangementsemerged; dogs must not be allowed <strong>in</strong>, <strong>and</strong> equipment must notbe allowed out. The first sod had been cut by W. P. Haskett-Smith on Easter Monday, 1936, the day after he had performedthe jubilee ascent <strong>of</strong> the Needle.Brackenclose was the name chosen for the Club's new home<strong>and</strong> the build<strong>in</strong>g was opened on 3rd October, 1937. Dr. T. R.Burnett described the occasion <strong>in</strong> Journal No. 32. The wholeClub made its way to Wasdale by foot <strong>and</strong> wheel the day afterthe Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner. The builders <strong>and</strong> local dalesmen werepresent <strong>and</strong> the weather was calm, k<strong>in</strong>d <strong>and</strong> sunny. G. A. Sollysaid a prayer, <strong>and</strong> R. S. T. Chorley, the retir<strong>in</strong>g President,recalled the pioneer<strong>in</strong>g days <strong>of</strong> the Club <strong>and</strong> told the assemblythat com<strong>in</strong>g generations would surely renew the exploration <strong>of</strong>the <strong>Fell</strong>s from the new Headquarters. He h<strong>and</strong>ed the key to hiswife who spoke briefly <strong>of</strong> the opportunities which the Clubwould enjoy, particularly the younger members. She 'launched 'the build<strong>in</strong>g by pour<strong>in</strong>g a mug <strong>of</strong> beer over the front doorstep<strong>and</strong> after the unlock<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the door h<strong>and</strong>ed the key to G. R.Speaker, the new President, who took possession <strong>of</strong> the key <strong>and</strong>the build<strong>in</strong>g on behalf <strong>of</strong> the first Warden, A. T. Hargreaves,<strong>and</strong> expressed the Club's gratitude to all those who had workedfor the fulfilment <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the greatest endeavours <strong>in</strong> its history.S<strong>in</strong>ce that celebrated occasion n<strong>in</strong>eteen years ago the Club hasadded three more huts to its possessions, but they have <strong>in</strong> eachcase been exist<strong>in</strong>g build<strong>in</strong>gs. The Annual Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> 1936<strong>in</strong>dulged <strong>in</strong> an exam<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>of</strong> conscience on the matter <strong>of</strong> newc
256 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSstructures <strong>in</strong> the Dale heads. A good example had been set bythe submission <strong>of</strong> the Brackenclose plan to the Council for thePreservation <strong>of</strong> Rural Engl<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> it was known that otherbodies contemplat<strong>in</strong>g huts were follow<strong>in</strong>g suit. The Meet<strong>in</strong>g,however, resolved that follow<strong>in</strong>g the erection <strong>of</strong> a new build<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong> a valley where no exist<strong>in</strong>g build<strong>in</strong>g was available, the futurepolicy for hut development must be that exist<strong>in</strong>g build<strong>in</strong>gs beacquired wherever possible. This condition has been strictlyobserved—<strong>in</strong>deed the rise <strong>in</strong> the cost <strong>of</strong> labour <strong>and</strong> materialswould have ruled out any other course.There is plenty <strong>of</strong> evidence <strong>of</strong> nocturnal activity, both deliberate<strong>and</strong> unrehearsed, on the part <strong>of</strong> small groups <strong>of</strong> membersthrough the Club's life, but there was no organised All NightWalk until 1934 when F. Lawson Cook devised an expeditionround the Patterdale watershed on the night <strong>of</strong> 30th June/1stJuly. As a Wayfarer the organiser knew what he was about,<strong>and</strong> planned the smallest detail. The party started thirty-fivestrong. The route ran from Boardale Hause to Ramsgill Head,thence to Kirkstone <strong>and</strong> over the Fairfield backbone to GrisedaleTarn. Diehards went the full distance to Stybarrow Dodd<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>to Glenco<strong>in</strong>, but short cuts by the Helvellyn edges wereprovided for. A f<strong>in</strong>e night followed a brilliant summer day, <strong>and</strong>the midnight tea party at the Kirkstone Inn was the highlight<strong>of</strong> the occasion. The experiment was repeated the follow<strong>in</strong>gyear start<strong>in</strong>g at Rosthwaite. N<strong>in</strong>e members put <strong>in</strong> an appearancefor the course over to Langdale <strong>and</strong> back by the Cr<strong>in</strong>kles <strong>and</strong>Esk Hause. In 1935 a third all night walk attracted only twomembers; <strong>in</strong>cidentally, bad weather was out <strong>in</strong> strength.Dur<strong>in</strong>g the years occupied by the first hut project the Club wasto adopt the annual Alp<strong>in</strong>e Meet. The first was held at Arolla<strong>in</strong> August, 1935. Ronald Walker acted as Treasurer <strong>and</strong>general factotum <strong>and</strong> the whole successful affair cost the twentyeightparticipants an average <strong>of</strong> £6 each. The second Alp<strong>in</strong>eMeet at Chamonix under the management <strong>of</strong> G. S. Bower <strong>and</strong>G. F. Travis, was equally successful <strong>and</strong> thereafter until thesecond World War the meet occurred regularly:—at Saas-Fee<strong>in</strong> 1937, under the jo<strong>in</strong>t leadership <strong>of</strong> L. S. Coxon <strong>and</strong> R. A.Fanshaw, at Fafleralp <strong>in</strong> 1938 led by L. S. Coxon, <strong>and</strong> atZermatt <strong>in</strong> 1939 under the leadership <strong>of</strong> Miss A. M. Adam.The Committee realised that <strong>in</strong> 1936 the jubilee <strong>of</strong> British <strong>Rock</strong>Climb<strong>in</strong>g was at h<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> determ<strong>in</strong>ed to celebrate the firstascent <strong>of</strong> the Needle <strong>in</strong> 1886 by W. P. Haskett-Smith, <strong>and</strong> that
F. H. F. Simpson 257remarkable person was <strong>in</strong>vited to repeat his performance onEaster Sunday. Haskett-Smith accepted the suggestion withenthusiasm <strong>and</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>ed for the event by travell<strong>in</strong>g fromLondon on Friday <strong>and</strong> on Saturday ascend<strong>in</strong>g Pillar <strong>Rock</strong> bythe Slab <strong>and</strong> Notch. Amidst snow showers from the north-eastover 300 people suspended themselves from every possiblevantage po<strong>in</strong>t on the front <strong>of</strong> Gable on the appo<strong>in</strong>ted day.R. S. T. Chorley led the party <strong>in</strong> boots, Haskett-Smith followed<strong>in</strong> rubbers <strong>and</strong> G. R. Speaker came up last <strong>in</strong> scarpetti. Thearrival at the summit was loudly cheered. Speaker addressedthe scattered assembly <strong>in</strong> praise <strong>of</strong> the occasion <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> the man,who, <strong>in</strong> his reply, doubted his ability to appear at the centenarycelebrations.In January, 1938, the Committee received a deputation whichproposed a Lake District Section <strong>of</strong> the Club, but the groundsput forward by the deputation were not favourably received bythe Committee. A full discussion took place, <strong>and</strong> this provedthat although there were many conflict<strong>in</strong>g views on the necessityor desirability <strong>of</strong> such a section, the alternative <strong>of</strong> what was thendescribed as Associate Membership deserved serious consideration.It was agreed that the deputation was correct <strong>in</strong> assert<strong>in</strong>gencouragement should be given to the progress <strong>of</strong> young climberswho could not claim the qualification necessary for full membership.It was F. Lawson Cook who suggested the more suitableterm <strong>of</strong> Graduat<strong>in</strong>g Membership. The three year term <strong>of</strong>graduation <strong>and</strong> the five shill<strong>in</strong>gs subscription with certa<strong>in</strong> limitedprivileges were recommended, <strong>and</strong> the new idea was passed backto a sub-committee for elaboration. The scheme was put on theagenda for the General Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> October, 1938, whichapproved Graduat<strong>in</strong>g Membership by forty-seven votes to two<strong>and</strong> also the new rule designed to meet the development. Thefirst two c<strong>and</strong>idates came up for election the follow<strong>in</strong>g month,<strong>and</strong> the flow <strong>of</strong> new recruits cont<strong>in</strong>ued un<strong>in</strong>terrupted.The warn<strong>in</strong>g note <strong>of</strong> Munich <strong>in</strong> the Autumn <strong>of</strong> 1938 soundedas the Club prepared for its Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner. In anticipation <strong>of</strong>wholesale disaster many members felt obliged to cry <strong>of</strong>f, <strong>and</strong> the140 people who did attend enjoyed additional elbow room <strong>and</strong>a certa<strong>in</strong> satisfaction <strong>in</strong> British traditional behaviour <strong>in</strong> the face<strong>of</strong> danger. The Club lived on happily dur<strong>in</strong>g the wonderfulsummer <strong>and</strong> autumn <strong>of</strong> 1939 until everyth<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Dr.T. R. Burnett's renewed proposal for a Club tie, was over-run bythe first violent tide <strong>of</strong> the second World War. There was, at
258 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSthe outbreak <strong>of</strong> hostilities a membership <strong>of</strong> 743, with twelvegraduat<strong>in</strong>g members. The emergency venue for the 1939d<strong>in</strong>ner was the Belsfield Hotel, as the Club's normal headquartersalready housed a school. G. R. Speaker, the retir<strong>in</strong>gPresident, was unavoidably absent, <strong>and</strong> Dr. T. R. Burnett tookthe Chair—at 2 o'clock <strong>in</strong> the afternoon. F. Lawson Cook waselected President. This <strong>of</strong>fice he held until September, 1944.His signature appears on all but two <strong>of</strong> the thirty-four sets <strong>of</strong>M<strong>in</strong>utes recorded dur<strong>in</strong>g his term <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice <strong>and</strong> only a severeillness prevented his attendance at every Club bus<strong>in</strong>ess meet<strong>in</strong>g.Meet<strong>in</strong>gs were naturally few but they were regular <strong>and</strong> theAnnual Meet<strong>in</strong>gs took place <strong>in</strong> St. John's Rooms, W<strong>in</strong>dermere,<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> a D<strong>in</strong>ner members enjoyed tea <strong>and</strong> slab cake. By1943 creature comforts were reach<strong>in</strong>g a depress<strong>in</strong>g nadir, <strong>and</strong>members were asked to br<strong>in</strong>g their own food. The time-honouredred <strong>and</strong> green pr<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> the Club notices <strong>and</strong> agenda gave way toa solemn black, <strong>and</strong> Brackenclose was reported short <strong>of</strong> paraff<strong>in</strong>.An annual <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> Meets was kept on as a basis for Clubactivity, <strong>and</strong> regard was had to the moonlit week-end, for thebenefit <strong>of</strong> cyclists <strong>in</strong> the blackout. Subscriptions were waived<strong>in</strong> the case <strong>of</strong> serv<strong>in</strong>g members who chose to take advantage <strong>of</strong>the concession. In September, 1940, D. N. Boothroyd who hadbeen Secretary s<strong>in</strong>ce 1935, resigned <strong>in</strong> anticipation <strong>of</strong> militaryservice <strong>and</strong> Miss Mary Leighton (now Mrs. J. B. Cockerton)assumed the <strong>of</strong>fice for the next four difficult years. The Secretarycould naturally never be certa<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> the number <strong>of</strong> members <strong>in</strong>the fight<strong>in</strong>g services but a f<strong>in</strong>ancial statement dated November,1941, records a total <strong>of</strong> sixty-six.Grave misfortune befell the Club when G. R. Speaker, Editor<strong>of</strong> the Journal s<strong>in</strong>ce 1933, lost his life on Great Gable <strong>in</strong> September,1942. Mrs. R. S. T. Chorley rescued the Committee from adifficult situation when she undertook the vacant <strong>of</strong>fice, theM<strong>in</strong>utes (' the 1943 Journal ■— with a view to see<strong>in</strong>g itthrough the Press '), suggest a mere stopgap arrangement. Mrs.Chorley, <strong>in</strong> fact, saw three Journals through the Press with theaid <strong>of</strong> Gerald Lacey <strong>and</strong> Miss M. R. FitzGibbon. The war-timeJournals suffered from the universal ration<strong>in</strong>g; No. 38 appear<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong> 1944 with a mere seventy-four pages with thirteen illustrations.In 1946 E. B. Mendus succeeded Mrs. Chorley <strong>and</strong>,follow<strong>in</strong>g an <strong>in</strong>crease <strong>in</strong> the paper supply, the post-war numbersput on welcome weight. The war-time Committees wereattended <strong>in</strong> remarkable strength by conscientious <strong>of</strong>ficers <strong>in</strong>
F. H. F. Simpson 259spite <strong>of</strong> the now half-forgotten difficulties <strong>of</strong> the times. Neverthelesserrors did occur, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1943 the Annual Report recordedthe death <strong>of</strong> a member who was not only <strong>in</strong> excellent health atthe time, but cont<strong>in</strong>ues so today.The first h<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> the second Club hut came <strong>in</strong> December, 1943,<strong>and</strong> with<strong>in</strong> a month Mr. <strong>and</strong> Mrs. Bulman had <strong>of</strong>fered the Cluba twenty year lease <strong>of</strong> Raw Head cottage at a rent <strong>of</strong> £65 perannum. Six months later £300 for improvements <strong>and</strong> equipmentwas voted out <strong>of</strong> the Club funds. The few members withboth time <strong>and</strong> opportunity formed first a sub-committee <strong>and</strong> nexta vigorous work<strong>in</strong>g party <strong>and</strong> on 1st October, 1944, the new hutwas opened by Mrs. F. Lawson Cook, wife <strong>of</strong> the President.This year was notable also for an important event <strong>in</strong> themounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g world, the formation, under the auspices <strong>of</strong> theAlp<strong>in</strong>e Club, <strong>of</strong> the British Mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g Council, <strong>of</strong> whichthe <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong> was one <strong>of</strong> the orig<strong>in</strong>al ' member clubs.' TheCommittee nom<strong>in</strong>ated three members, Graham Wilson, GeorgeAnderson <strong>and</strong> Lord Chorley, to represent the Club on theCouncil. The last named has acted cont<strong>in</strong>uously <strong>in</strong> that capacityup to the present time.Graham Wilson presided happily over 1<strong>50</strong> members at thefirst post-war Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner at the Royal Oak Hotel, Keswick,on 29th September, 1945. The membership then totalled 906,<strong>of</strong> which thirty-seven were graduat<strong>in</strong>g members. Qualificationsfor membership were tightened somewhat at the bus<strong>in</strong>essmeet<strong>in</strong>g, provision be<strong>in</strong>g made for the new entrant to haveattended at least one meet prior to consideration <strong>of</strong> his or herapplication. The President <strong>and</strong> other speakers at this d<strong>in</strong>ner tookthe opportunity to praise F. Lawson Cook for the manner <strong>in</strong>which he had steered the Club through the difficult years <strong>of</strong> war,with characteristic enthusiasm <strong>and</strong> firmness, though deniedmany <strong>of</strong> the pleasures which a President should enjoy.T. C. Appleyard entered a further four years term as Secretary<strong>in</strong> 1946. Dur<strong>in</strong>g that year came the opportunity to purchasethe freehold <strong>of</strong> Raw Head cottage <strong>and</strong> barn with two acres <strong>of</strong>l<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> the important decision was taken, under the presidency<strong>of</strong> L. W. Somervell, to convert the barn <strong>in</strong>to a self-conta<strong>in</strong>ed hut.This project proved to be someth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> a f<strong>in</strong>ancial problem <strong>and</strong>the first appeals barely covered the cost <strong>of</strong> purchase, <strong>in</strong> spite <strong>of</strong>a substantial contribution from the G. R. Speaker MemorialFund by the London Section.The same display <strong>of</strong> energy <strong>and</strong> self-sacrifice by a small group
260 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARS<strong>of</strong> members which went to mak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Brackenclose <strong>and</strong> RawHead cottage forged yet another l<strong>in</strong>k <strong>in</strong> the cha<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> the Club'sprogress. The barn was a much tougher problem than anyother hut acquired by the Club. Control <strong>of</strong> materials exerciseda stern <strong>in</strong>fluence, <strong>and</strong> a full two years passed <strong>in</strong> deliberation <strong>and</strong>experiment with plans under the pr<strong>of</strong>essional guidance <strong>of</strong> ourarchitect member, Jonathan Stables. J. A. Kenyon, <strong>in</strong> JournalNo. 45, mentions one Committee which sat from 10-30 p.m.until 4-30 a.m. The strong man at the head <strong>of</strong> the team wasL. W. Somervell who performed the open<strong>in</strong>g ceremony on 8thApril, 19<strong>50</strong>.In becom<strong>in</strong>g the Freeholders <strong>of</strong> Raw Head the Club becameentitled to certa<strong>in</strong> benefits as commoners <strong>of</strong> Langdale <strong>of</strong> whomthere were rather more than sixty. Before the property legislation<strong>of</strong> 1925 these rights were largely obsolete <strong>and</strong> consisted<strong>in</strong> that year chiefly <strong>of</strong> a share <strong>in</strong> an <strong>in</strong>vested fund. The change<strong>in</strong> the law made the retention <strong>of</strong> the fund unnecessary <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>1927 someth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the neighbourhood <strong>of</strong> £<strong>50</strong>0 was dividedamong those entitled, a small sum be<strong>in</strong>g reta<strong>in</strong>ed for cont<strong>in</strong>gencies.Twenty-eight years later, there be<strong>in</strong>g no claim on thefund, the commoners, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the Club, approved the clos<strong>in</strong>g<strong>of</strong> the fund by payment <strong>of</strong> their share <strong>of</strong> the balance <strong>of</strong>£27 17s. 6d. to Langdale Church for general purposes <strong>of</strong> theChurch Fund.The com<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Birkness <strong>and</strong> the Salv<strong>in</strong>g House is fresh <strong>in</strong> them<strong>in</strong>ds <strong>of</strong> all but the newest members <strong>and</strong> it is only necessary torefer briefly to their completion <strong>and</strong> open<strong>in</strong>g, the first on 2ndJune, 1952, by Dr. T. R. Burnett, <strong>and</strong> the second on 25th May,1953, by Mr. P. D. Boothroyd. The same system <strong>of</strong> f<strong>in</strong>ance byloans <strong>and</strong> donations from members was relied upon for theseadditional Club properties <strong>and</strong> added comforts <strong>and</strong> practicalimprovements are be<strong>in</strong>g made when funds allow. With<strong>in</strong> sixmonths <strong>of</strong> the open<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the Salv<strong>in</strong>g House the Club learnedthat the Gospel Hall at Coniston, with a burial ground annexed,was com<strong>in</strong>g on the market. The build<strong>in</strong>g was dest<strong>in</strong>ed not tobecome the fifth Club hut. As recently as December, 1955,the Committee received a suggestion regard<strong>in</strong>g a hut <strong>in</strong> Patterdale.It was <strong>in</strong>evitable that the Treasurer should turn his <strong>of</strong>ficialback on the prospect.A significant post-war development was the establishment <strong>of</strong>meets outside the Lake District. There was a precedent forthis before September, 1939, the first meet <strong>of</strong> the k<strong>in</strong>d organised
F. H. F. Simpson 261by A. B. Hargreaves hav<strong>in</strong>g taken place <strong>in</strong> Wales <strong>in</strong> 1934 whenseventeen members enjoyed the hospitality <strong>of</strong> the P<strong>in</strong>nacle Clubat Cwm-Dyli <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> the Climbers' Club at Helyg. In May,1935, a jo<strong>in</strong>t meet was arranged with the Northern Cavern <strong>and</strong><strong>Fell</strong> Club at Clapham. The hosts lowered the guests <strong>in</strong>to Gap<strong>in</strong>gGhyll <strong>and</strong> showed them round. In the even<strong>in</strong>g the two Clubsd<strong>in</strong>ed together, <strong>and</strong> after-d<strong>in</strong>ner activities seem to have been bothnoisy <strong>and</strong> novel. With the com<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> peace the Club began tolook around aga<strong>in</strong>, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> May, 1946, the first Scottish meetwas held <strong>in</strong> Arran <strong>and</strong> lasted ten days, <strong>and</strong> was attended bytwenty-four members Such was the popularity <strong>of</strong> this newactivity, that it has been repeated annually for ten years, <strong>in</strong> 1947<strong>in</strong> Skye, <strong>in</strong> 1948 at Fort William, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1949 <strong>in</strong> Arran aga<strong>in</strong>—a meet remarkable for the assembly <strong>of</strong> a President <strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice <strong>and</strong>five past Presidents. From 19<strong>50</strong> to 1955 meets were heldrespectively at Glencoe, K<strong>in</strong>tail, K<strong>in</strong>lochewe, Inchnadamph, <strong>in</strong>Skye, <strong>and</strong> at Fort William aga<strong>in</strong>. For the Jubilee <strong>Year</strong> newground was broken <strong>in</strong> Glen Affric. Dur<strong>in</strong>g these years some <strong>of</strong>the faithful returned to North Wales <strong>and</strong> meets <strong>in</strong> the Alps wererevived at Arolla <strong>in</strong> 1947 where over thirty members attended,<strong>and</strong> at Zermatt <strong>in</strong> 1948.It was <strong>in</strong>evitable that time should br<strong>in</strong>g about some changesas the Club picked up the threads <strong>of</strong> peace-time activity <strong>in</strong> itsfourth decade, <strong>and</strong> the departure from Thornythwaite <strong>of</strong> theJopson family left the Club virtually homeless <strong>in</strong> Borrowdale.W. G. Pape records (Journal No. 41) the long service <strong>of</strong> thesefriendly dales-people to several generations <strong>of</strong> climbers s<strong>in</strong>ce1901. Follow<strong>in</strong>g the death <strong>of</strong> his wife, Fisher Jopson cont<strong>in</strong>uedto live <strong>in</strong> Threlkeld next door to the home <strong>of</strong> his eldest daughter,Margaret. The younger members <strong>of</strong> today were deprived <strong>of</strong>someth<strong>in</strong>g very wonderful when the Club ceased to meet <strong>in</strong> thefarm <strong>in</strong> the meadows under Glaramara. Yet another longestablished home was lost to the Club when the Misses Edmondsongave up the management <strong>of</strong> the Buttermere Hotel, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>19<strong>50</strong> an approach was made to S. H. Cross, <strong>of</strong> the Old DungeonGhyll Hotel, with a view to hold<strong>in</strong>g the New <strong>Year</strong> meet <strong>in</strong>Langdale This annual occasion quickly became a most cheerful<strong>and</strong> well attended function <strong>and</strong> it now requires yet another subcommitteeto organise it.In 1947 work began on a new <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> Climb<strong>in</strong>g Guides,aga<strong>in</strong> under the general editorship <strong>of</strong> H. M. Kelly. At the
262 THE FIRST FIFTY YEARSmoment <strong>of</strong> writ<strong>in</strong>g all but one <strong>of</strong> these have been published, <strong>and</strong>some hard pressed <strong>in</strong>vestigators are fac<strong>in</strong>g up to the immensetask <strong>of</strong> add<strong>in</strong>g to the written record the now numerous outly<strong>in</strong>gclimbs. Some <strong>of</strong> the latest developments are ' outly<strong>in</strong>g ' nolonger, those <strong>in</strong> Deepdale <strong>and</strong> Dovedale hav<strong>in</strong>g become centres<strong>in</strong> their own right. The Committee was confronted <strong>in</strong> 1947with applications for membership made on behalf <strong>of</strong> youngpeople vary<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> age from ten to sixteen years. The <strong>in</strong>evitablesub-committee studied the whole problem <strong>of</strong> recruitment <strong>of</strong>young people <strong>and</strong> the growth <strong>of</strong> the Club <strong>and</strong> produced a fivepage memor<strong>and</strong>um recommend<strong>in</strong>g revision <strong>of</strong> the method <strong>of</strong>election <strong>of</strong> members <strong>and</strong> endors<strong>in</strong>g the earlier decision to limitthe total membership to 1,000, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g honorary <strong>and</strong> graduat<strong>in</strong>gmembers. An Extraord<strong>in</strong>ary General Meet<strong>in</strong>g approvedthis radical alteration, together with an annual subscription <strong>of</strong>£1 Is. 0d., a life membership fee <strong>of</strong> £15 15s. Od. <strong>and</strong> a lowerage limit <strong>of</strong> eighteen <strong>and</strong> sixteen years for full <strong>and</strong> graduat<strong>in</strong>gmembers respectively, <strong>and</strong> the restriction <strong>of</strong> total membership to1,000. At that time membership stood at 981 <strong>and</strong> at theopen<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the Jubilee <strong>Year</strong> the figure was 892. A furtherextensive revision <strong>of</strong> the Rules was made <strong>in</strong> 1949 <strong>and</strong> the complexity<strong>of</strong> the adm<strong>in</strong>istrative mach<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> the recent experience<strong>of</strong> the Committee dictated the necessity for a new Rule giv<strong>in</strong>gthe Committee discipl<strong>in</strong>ary powers. In 1955 the Committeeconcluded that the flow <strong>of</strong> guests, both private <strong>and</strong> k<strong>in</strong>dred clubmembers, had reached such proportions as to warrant the <strong>in</strong>troduction<strong>of</strong> temporary membership <strong>of</strong> the Club for all nonmembersus<strong>in</strong>g the huts. The purpose was tw<strong>of</strong>old; first to givethe Club guests a status not otherwise possible, <strong>and</strong> secondly tomake them subject to the rules by which the rest <strong>of</strong> us aregoverned. R. G. Pl<strong>in</strong>t assumed the Treasurership <strong>in</strong> 1948 fromA. B. Hargreaves who had held <strong>of</strong>fice for a total <strong>of</strong> thirteenyears, the last three on the ' temporary ' basis with which so manyarduous tours <strong>of</strong> duty for Club <strong>of</strong>ficers have commenced. Early<strong>in</strong> 19<strong>50</strong> E. B. Mendus resigned the Editorship ow<strong>in</strong>g to ill-health<strong>and</strong> W. G. Stevens succeeded him. Like other outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g<strong>of</strong>ficers he only shouldered the task on a temporary basis, <strong>and</strong> the<strong>publication</strong>s he has given us prove beyond question his devotionto the task.The Editor recorded (Journal No. 48) the names <strong>of</strong> fifteenmembers <strong>of</strong> the Club who had taken part <strong>in</strong> expeditions to
F. H. F. Simpson 263Mount Everest. The Club shared <strong>in</strong> the successful assault onthe mounta<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1953, <strong>and</strong> whatever his other Clubs may th<strong>in</strong>k,the <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong> regards Brigadier Sir John Hunt, withpardonable pride, as essentially a <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong>er. Sir John—who figured <strong>in</strong> the M<strong>in</strong>utes on his election <strong>in</strong> 1935 as ' Lt.J. Hunt' proved himself a leader <strong>of</strong> sterl<strong>in</strong>g qualities <strong>and</strong> ourother member, Alfred Gregory, established a reputation as askilled mounta<strong>in</strong>eer, weight-lifter <strong>and</strong> photographer. To thesemen <strong>and</strong> to Eric Shipton, who po<strong>in</strong>ted the way, the Club gavewell deserved honorary membership at the memorable AnnualD<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>of</strong> 1953. In the follow<strong>in</strong>g year our members, S. R.Jackson <strong>and</strong> J. W. Tucker, took part <strong>in</strong> the expedition which reconnoitredKangchenjunga, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1955 John Jackson was amember <strong>of</strong> the Expedition which reached the summit. Throughoutits life the Club has fostered the exploration <strong>of</strong> the greatmounta<strong>in</strong> ranges <strong>of</strong> the World by precept <strong>and</strong> example. Theseth<strong>in</strong>gs we have managed to do without los<strong>in</strong>g sight <strong>of</strong> our basicpurpose: the quiet enjoyment <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>ous surround<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong>good company.An historical record is easy to beg<strong>in</strong>. The present clearlydef<strong>in</strong>es its f<strong>in</strong>ish. It is the part <strong>in</strong> the middle which br<strong>in</strong>gs perplexity<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>decision. There is so much to record s<strong>in</strong>ce 1906that the notes from which this paper is prepared would, if completelyexp<strong>and</strong>ed, fill the whole Journal. To history belongs themodest preoccupation <strong>of</strong> our Secretary, Mrs. Lyna Picker<strong>in</strong>g,who beg<strong>in</strong>s to th<strong>in</strong>k <strong>of</strong> the next d<strong>in</strong>ner meet not less than sixmonths <strong>in</strong> advance; truly do our lives revolve round theSecretary. Into our history must go the constant <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> theClub <strong>of</strong> our President, Dr. T. Howard Somervell, absent on asurgical teach<strong>in</strong>g mission <strong>in</strong> India for nearly twelve months <strong>of</strong>his term <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice. His letters to the senior <strong>of</strong>ficers show alively <strong>and</strong> nostalgic concern <strong>in</strong> Club affairs. In one such communicationhe signed himself, ' Your rotten old President.'History will not agree.In another fifty years someone will pick up the thread <strong>of</strong> thistale where I now lay it down. Another one will be written <strong>and</strong>it will be a good story, better told than this, <strong>and</strong> it will bepr<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> a Journal with a bright red cover. Tennyson's Ela<strong>in</strong>e' made a pretty history to herself ' <strong>and</strong> the Club will follow herexample.
LOOKING BACK AND FORTH IN THE FELL ANDROCKT. Howard SomervellI cannot claim to be one <strong>of</strong> the pioneers, <strong>and</strong> when the Editorasked me to write some recollections <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong> Club<strong>in</strong> its younger days, I felt that others were much better qualifiedto do it than myself. I cannot write <strong>of</strong> its birth or <strong>in</strong>fancy, butonly <strong>of</strong> its childhood.The F. & R.C.C. was already three years old when I began toclimb rocks, although I had for years enjoyed walk<strong>in</strong>g over thefells. But one day, st<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g beside Stickle Tarn, I saw somepeople (who turned out to be the Woodsend brothers) climb<strong>in</strong>gthe Great Gully <strong>of</strong> Pavey Ark. I thought it looked rather fun,<strong>and</strong> went up after them, f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g to my surprise that it waspossible to get up the gully without us<strong>in</strong>g a rope or attract<strong>in</strong>g theattention <strong>of</strong> those well <strong>in</strong> front <strong>of</strong> me, who would, I was certa<strong>in</strong>,tell me to go down if they saw what I was do<strong>in</strong>g. They werevery k<strong>in</strong>d to me, <strong>and</strong> took me up several climbs <strong>in</strong> their partydur<strong>in</strong>g the next few days. Darw<strong>in</strong> Leighton was the onlyKendalian I knew to be a climber, <strong>and</strong> I soon got <strong>in</strong>to touch withhim, <strong>and</strong> went over to Wasdale to stay dur<strong>in</strong>g my next vacation.There I met some <strong>of</strong> the old brigade, amongst others theAbrahams, P. S. M<strong>in</strong>or, Haskett-Smith, <strong>and</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the not-so-old—-H. P. Ca<strong>in</strong>, who became one <strong>of</strong> my greatest friends, <strong>and</strong> whomI not only loved but admired as an ideal man, compounded <strong>of</strong>humour, courage, knowledge <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>s, keenness <strong>and</strong> goodnature. His untimely death was one <strong>of</strong> the great blows <strong>of</strong> mylife. I remember Herford well—I was rather frightened <strong>of</strong> him,because I thought he might want to take me up the P<strong>in</strong>nacle face,<strong>and</strong> the accident <strong>of</strong> 1903 was too recent to be ignored. But Iknew that if he asked me to go I would do so; the best th<strong>in</strong>g todo was to steer clear <strong>of</strong> him — thus I missed gett<strong>in</strong>g to know aremarkable young man.In those early days the devotees <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Fell</strong>s were like a family<strong>of</strong> several generations stay<strong>in</strong>g together at the Sun or WasdaleHead or O.D.G., <strong>and</strong> I remember many games <strong>of</strong> Fives on theold Wasdale table, <strong>and</strong> the attempts we made to do the BilliardTable Traverse, which I managed to perform successfully; <strong>and</strong>the route round the billiard room, on w<strong>in</strong>dow-sill, mantelpiece,<strong>and</strong> with picture nails (not rails) for h<strong>and</strong>holds to keep one fromtouch<strong>in</strong>g the floor (which was the ultimate disgrace while do<strong>in</strong>geither climb). One w<strong>in</strong>try day Reuben Brierley <strong>and</strong> Dr.
T. Howard Somervell 265McCleary took me up the Central Gully on the north west side<strong>of</strong> Great Gable. It was plastered with ice, <strong>and</strong> down its <strong>in</strong>hospitablebed there raced cont<strong>in</strong>ually hailstones <strong>and</strong> snow,occasionally jo<strong>in</strong>ed by the chips <strong>of</strong> ice from McCleary's axe as hecut his way up. Eventually we had to give up the climb <strong>and</strong>jump down the bottom pitch, an exercise which was good preparationfor the similar jumps <strong>of</strong> bergschrunds <strong>and</strong> bits <strong>of</strong> icefallswhich I have had to do so <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>in</strong> the Alps <strong>and</strong> elsewhere(though never aga<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> the Lake District), <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> which the oneI remember most was a 15-foot jump down to the North Col <strong>of</strong>Everest <strong>in</strong> 1922. Back aga<strong>in</strong> to the billiard table <strong>of</strong> Wasdale,<strong>and</strong> exercise without ice. And then to the bath, turn<strong>in</strong>g out theold climb<strong>in</strong>g clothes (<strong>of</strong> which it was apt to be full) beforeputt<strong>in</strong>g the water <strong>in</strong>. And then I would sit <strong>in</strong> the little lounge<strong>and</strong> listen to my seniors talk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> old climbs — Haskett-Smith<strong>and</strong> Collie <strong>and</strong> the Abrahams <strong>and</strong> Darw<strong>in</strong> Leighton, all <strong>of</strong> themscarcely visible <strong>in</strong> a cloud <strong>of</strong> smoke. Wasdale Head Hotel wasthen the centre <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong> climb<strong>in</strong>g; <strong>and</strong> not Lakel<strong>and</strong> only,witness our journal for 1915, the first half <strong>of</strong> which is entirelyabout climb<strong>in</strong>g outside Brita<strong>in</strong>. Like many young climbers <strong>of</strong>those days I received a great deal <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>spiration from Abraham'sbooks <strong>of</strong> British <strong>and</strong> Swiss Mounta<strong>in</strong> Climbs, <strong>and</strong> The CompleteMounta<strong>in</strong>eer, all <strong>of</strong> which I devoured, <strong>and</strong> most <strong>of</strong> every holidayfrom 1909 to 1914 was spent either <strong>in</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong> or the Alps.Cars <strong>and</strong> buses were almost unknown <strong>in</strong> those days, so thatwhen at home <strong>in</strong> Kendal I had to go by push bike to Langdaleor Coniston. It may have been hard exercise, but it developedone's physique <strong>in</strong> a way for which I am now very thankful.When a couple <strong>of</strong> days on the crags were only atta<strong>in</strong>ed by pushbik<strong>in</strong>gover twenty or thirty miles <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong> roads, onewanted to get as much climb<strong>in</strong>g as possible <strong>in</strong>to those hard-wonhours <strong>of</strong> daylight on the fells. Whether at Wasdale or Conistonor Seathwaite, I was never content unless every m<strong>in</strong>ute <strong>of</strong> daylightwas spent on rocks. Four, five, six or more <strong>of</strong> the textbookclimbs must be done <strong>in</strong> the day if possible. And <strong>in</strong> theAlps it was the same — there was no day <strong>of</strong> rest <strong>in</strong> between onehut <strong>and</strong> the next. Up to a hut — next day the peak <strong>and</strong> downto the hut, next day perhaps another peak <strong>and</strong> down to theflesh-pots; one night <strong>in</strong> the hotel, <strong>and</strong> up the follow<strong>in</strong>g day, ra<strong>in</strong>or sun, to another hut. Then crash came the war, <strong>and</strong> a holidaywent west, <strong>and</strong> many <strong>of</strong> my college <strong>and</strong> climb<strong>in</strong>g friends never
266 LOOKING BACK AND FORTH IN THE FELL AND ROCKcame back. When on my scanty leaves from the Western frontI looked around to f<strong>in</strong>d fellow-climbers. Jonathan Stables, <strong>of</strong>Ambleside, was one <strong>of</strong> the few, <strong>and</strong> a favourite excursion <strong>of</strong>m<strong>in</strong>e when nobody could be found was Intermediate Gully onDow Crag, at that time comparatively safe climb<strong>in</strong>g for asolitary enthusiast. Then I discovered Bower, <strong>and</strong> with him asleader, the dreaded P<strong>in</strong>nacle Face lost a good many <strong>of</strong> itsimag<strong>in</strong>ed terrors.After the armistice, a party <strong>of</strong> young <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong>ers weresoon to be seen approach<strong>in</strong>g Solly, then President <strong>of</strong> the Club,<strong>and</strong> ask<strong>in</strong>g him to help them <strong>in</strong> a season <strong>in</strong> Switzerl<strong>and</strong>. BendeyBeetham, J. B. Meldrum, George Bower <strong>and</strong> I were the luckyrecipients <strong>of</strong> his favourable reply, <strong>and</strong> Solly's wisdom <strong>and</strong>experience were soon added to our own youthful energy. Afortnight at Montenvers under his guidance, <strong>and</strong> we had learnedmuch about snow <strong>and</strong> ice; when to fear an avalanche, what sort<strong>of</strong> places were dangerous <strong>and</strong> to be crossed quickly, how to tacklean icefall, <strong>and</strong> how not to m<strong>in</strong>d say<strong>in</strong>g ' let's go back ' if it wasobviously the right th<strong>in</strong>g to do. Solly then considered we couldbe trusted to do a few mounta<strong>in</strong>s on our own. A repeat performancethe folow<strong>in</strong>g year established us as worthy to grapplewith Alp<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> other major peaks; but it was all the <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong><strong>Rock</strong> fraternity that had done it. I mention this not merely as avivid personal rem<strong>in</strong>iscence, but as an <strong>in</strong>stance <strong>of</strong> the way our<strong>Fell</strong>s <strong>and</strong> our Club have proved to be the nursery <strong>of</strong> climbers <strong>of</strong>higher <strong>and</strong> bigger mounta<strong>in</strong>s throughout the world, as well asbe<strong>in</strong>g for many <strong>of</strong> us self-sufficient <strong>in</strong> themselves as a ground forexercise, danger, even adventure on occasion.In the days <strong>of</strong> which I have been writ<strong>in</strong>g, cl<strong>in</strong>ker-nailed bootswere the accepted footwear for all climb<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong>, <strong>of</strong> course, theyare still the most universally useful — Vibrams can be verytreacherous on sh<strong>in</strong>y, lichen-covered rock, <strong>and</strong> hard steel Tricouniscan slip on smooth slop<strong>in</strong>g holds. But at a certa<strong>in</strong> stage,shordy after the first war, rubbers came <strong>in</strong>. I always associatethem with George Basterfield, but whether he really <strong>in</strong>troducedthem or simply happened to be very keen on them I never knew.At any rate, when they first appeared they caused considerablemisgiv<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> the m<strong>in</strong>ds <strong>of</strong> many climbers, <strong>of</strong> whom I confess Iwas one. Was it really fair, tak<strong>in</strong>g this mean advantage <strong>of</strong> ourold friends the rocks? Wasn't there someth<strong>in</strong>g rather shock<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong> wear<strong>in</strong>g shoes which turned the Severes <strong>in</strong>to V.D.'s, <strong>and</strong> the
T. Howard Somervell 267Difficulty <strong>in</strong>to Moderates? And <strong>in</strong> our fickle Lakel<strong>and</strong> weatherthey were surely most dangerous! Much the same feel<strong>in</strong>g hadbeen aroused earlier by crampons, which make ice so much saferbut can themselves be a source <strong>of</strong> danger if used on steep rocks,or left on a chair spikes upwards <strong>in</strong> the darkened hall <strong>of</strong> a Swisshotel. And today many climbers <strong>of</strong> the old brigade are feel<strong>in</strong>gthat pitons <strong>and</strong> similar ironmongery have <strong>in</strong> them someth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>the sacrilegious. But the fact rema<strong>in</strong>s that there are certa<strong>in</strong>climbs which cannot be done at all without rubbers. It wasstrange that so many <strong>of</strong> us who accepted kletterschuhe (scarpetti)as the normal footwear for the Dolomites cast aspersions on gymshoes for rock climb<strong>in</strong>g. But <strong>in</strong> those days we did so, thoughonly for a short time. Rubbers won the day, <strong>and</strong> there are onlytwo objections to them which are worthy <strong>of</strong> record. The first isthat they are dangerous if ra<strong>in</strong> should fall <strong>in</strong> the course <strong>of</strong> a climbup steep rock —stock<strong>in</strong>g feet or abseil<strong>in</strong>g may be the only wayout. The second misgiv<strong>in</strong>g is that climbers who are accustomedonly to rubbers <strong>in</strong> dry conditions may develop a technique <strong>in</strong>climb<strong>in</strong>g which is dangerous <strong>in</strong> ra<strong>in</strong>y weather, or if you happento have nailed boots. Several accidents have happened fromsuch people (either <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> or the Alps) attempt<strong>in</strong>g to do <strong>in</strong>boots a climb which is only really possible <strong>in</strong> rubbers. For thisreason I believe that all beg<strong>in</strong>ners should do their early climb<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong> nailed boots. When my own sons were start<strong>in</strong>g their rockclimb<strong>in</strong>g careers I <strong>in</strong>sisted that they should have boots only fortheir first year or two <strong>of</strong> climb<strong>in</strong>g. Perhaps I am an old-fashionedfather, but <strong>in</strong> that at any rate I feel sure I was right. After' f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g one's feet' with nailed boots, rubbers <strong>and</strong> Vibrams willopen up new delights on the rocks, while the nailed boots willalways be available for the conditions <strong>in</strong> which they are the best.It looks as if Vibrams are go<strong>in</strong>g to prove the st<strong>and</strong>ard footwearuntil someth<strong>in</strong>g still better is <strong>in</strong>vented.The old days when the Club was a k<strong>in</strong>d <strong>of</strong> family, a smallclimb<strong>in</strong>g fraternity, are over. Our Club is now many times asbig as it was <strong>in</strong> those early days. It has had to exp<strong>and</strong> itsaccommodation, for the Sun, the Wasdale Hotel, <strong>and</strong> the O.D.G.,were no longer sufficient <strong>and</strong> not <strong>of</strong>ten available for most <strong>of</strong> ourmembers that might want to use them. Hence our huts — <strong>and</strong>perhaps <strong>in</strong> the future there may be more <strong>of</strong> them, just as the veryclimbs <strong>and</strong> routes have multiplied, <strong>and</strong> new outcrops <strong>of</strong> rocks arefound to yield good sport. However nostalgic one may be for
268 LOOKTNG BACK AND FORTH IN THE FELL AND ROCKthe old family feel<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> a small club, we welcome our largemembership, <strong>and</strong> rejoice that so many are keen enough on thefells <strong>and</strong> rocks to want to jo<strong>in</strong> our fraternity. We now havenearly a thous<strong>and</strong> members, <strong>and</strong> perhaps one day we shallnumber two thous<strong>and</strong>. Well, if we do, we will have to havemore huts, <strong>and</strong> we will have more people to help <strong>in</strong> their build<strong>in</strong>g<strong>and</strong> equipment. After all, our climbs have multiplied. BoatHowe Crags, M<strong>in</strong>ers' Crag, Shepherd's Crag, <strong>and</strong> those f<strong>in</strong>erocks on the northern face <strong>of</strong> Fairfield, are all fairly recentacquisitions; <strong>and</strong> new routes on the old climb<strong>in</strong>g grounds arestill be<strong>in</strong>g found. So let us look forward with confidence <strong>and</strong>hope to the future, <strong>and</strong> may our large family lose none <strong>of</strong> theSpirit <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Fell</strong>s <strong>and</strong> the good comradeship that has been oursfor the last fifty years.
QII
MELODIOUS MEMORIESMarjorie Y. Wa^efieldWhat a lifetime ago it seems s<strong>in</strong>ce those days when weassembled <strong>in</strong> the famous billiard-room <strong>of</strong> the Wastwater Hotel<strong>and</strong> gave tongue to ' The Darky Sunday-School ' <strong>and</strong> otherribald ditties. The best known <strong>and</strong> most popular collection then<strong>in</strong> use was ' The Songs <strong>of</strong> the Mounta<strong>in</strong>eers,' collected <strong>and</strong>edited by John Hirst for the Rucksack Club. With<strong>in</strong> its pagesare enshr<strong>in</strong>ed for all time memories <strong>of</strong> the stalwarts <strong>of</strong> other days.One could always recognize Ge<strong>of</strong>frey W<strong>in</strong>throp Young's touchas we sang <strong>of</strong> the ' w<strong>in</strong>e-dark skies.' Few have been able to put<strong>in</strong>to words as he has that love <strong>of</strong> the hills which marks the truemounta<strong>in</strong>eer—' For the joy <strong>of</strong> a hill is as deeply, deeply,Graven <strong>in</strong> laughter on hearts grown old.Lowl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Level may seemly show,But the great cliffs are supreme to know!Woo them! Pursue them! Their pleasures are treasuresOf laughter <strong>in</strong> cloudl<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> dreams below.'One remembers John Whit<strong>in</strong>g (one <strong>of</strong> the Orig<strong>in</strong>al Members<strong>of</strong> the Club) s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g with feel<strong>in</strong>g Haskett-Smith's ' Pal<strong>in</strong>odia '—' I miss the comforts <strong>of</strong> my club,It's not the " Climbers " now,'<strong>and</strong> Ashley Abraham jo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the laughter as he sang' I never w<strong>and</strong>er forth " aloneUpon the mounta<strong>in</strong>'s brow ";I weighed last w<strong>in</strong>ter sixteen stone—I'm not a climber now.'How feel<strong>in</strong>gly those <strong>of</strong> us who were mere novices used tos<strong>in</strong>g—'Haul! haul! haul! my feet are slipp<strong>in</strong>g,My h<strong>and</strong>holds all are loose <strong>and</strong> wet;Oh! keep me very tight,For my balance isn't right,I've eternity below me, don't forget.'Those were the days when no session was complete withoutDarw<strong>in</strong> Leighton's famous Ch<strong>in</strong>ese Song, followed always byThe Climber's Ditty—
270 MELODIOUS MEMORIES' Then when twilight takes our yearsThe homeward tramp <strong>of</strong> night,We'll climb along those hills <strong>of</strong> cloudWhere cairns are stars <strong>of</strong> light.'Dear Darw<strong>in</strong>, always so k<strong>in</strong>d to the timid novices — I am surehe is busy guid<strong>in</strong>g novices still along those ' hills <strong>of</strong> cloud.'One must always associate Wasdale with that beloved climberpoet,George Basterfield. Who can forget D<strong>in</strong>kie, the ' low-downhound with her tummie on the ground,' who occupied pride <strong>of</strong>place on a table at her master's elbow while he sang the history<strong>of</strong> her accomplishments. But we remember George best for suchenchant<strong>in</strong>g songs as' The Shepherd's Lullaby,' ' Doe Crags' (heresolutely refused any other spell<strong>in</strong>g!), <strong>and</strong> surely most <strong>of</strong> all forthe haunt<strong>in</strong>g unforgettable ' Call <strong>of</strong> the Hills '—' Out on the face <strong>of</strong> Gimmer,On the battlements <strong>of</strong> old Scafcll,On the grim, grey walls <strong>of</strong> Pillar,On the Napes above the gates <strong>of</strong> Hell,We have gathered <strong>in</strong> the secrets <strong>of</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong>s,Revelled <strong>in</strong> the freedom <strong>of</strong> the hills,And the soul goes leap<strong>in</strong>g as we st<strong>and</strong> aboveLike the torrents <strong>in</strong> the deep down ghylls.'Memory calls to m<strong>in</strong>d those s<strong>in</strong>g-songs at W<strong>in</strong>dermere Hydro,where dear Nellie Howard charmed everyone with " L<strong>in</strong>dy ' <strong>and</strong>other lovely songs from her wonderful repertoire; Harry Scott's<strong>in</strong>exhaustible store <strong>of</strong> anecdotes; <strong>and</strong> John Hirst, a firm favourite<strong>of</strong> long st<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g, com<strong>in</strong>g up each year with a fresh topical song;is it really as long ago as 1923 s<strong>in</strong>ce he created what one mightwell call the anthem <strong>of</strong> the Club, the well-beloved ' <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong><strong>Rock</strong>.' The prophecy <strong>in</strong> the last two l<strong>in</strong>es has <strong>in</strong>deed been mostamply fulfilled, s<strong>in</strong>ce Club members now do almost moreclimb<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Switzerl<strong>and</strong> than on the Lakel<strong>and</strong> fells.Best <strong>of</strong> all, perhaps, one remembers the homely gather<strong>in</strong>gs atWhit week-end <strong>in</strong> the t<strong>in</strong>y overcrowded room at Thorneythwaite.How grateful we were to Mr. Boothroyd who, <strong>in</strong> 1928, presentedto the Club a most admirable collection <strong>of</strong> the tried <strong>and</strong> truefavourites. What memories the old songs recall. In them thestalwarts <strong>of</strong> the past live aga<strong>in</strong>, rem<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g those who come after<strong>of</strong> the goodly heritage to which they have succeeded.
THE GOOD YOUNG DAYSDorothy Pilley RichardsOn any really f<strong>in</strong>e day <strong>in</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong>s, <strong>and</strong> above all after along spell, it becomes hard to imag<strong>in</strong>e what they are like <strong>in</strong> badweather; equally, when the usual is com<strong>in</strong>g down <strong>in</strong> plenty fromthe skies <strong>and</strong> seep<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to the boot-tops, it is hard to rememberhow the sun-filled hours felt. So, too, but more so, when one isjust beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g to realise that one's mounta<strong>in</strong> capabilities areexp<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> that one can reasonably notch up one's ambitionsa trifle, it is not easy to conceive how it really feels when powersare contract<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> a notch down seems fairly frequently theappropriate measure.Fortunately, perhaps, not much imag<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g about such th<strong>in</strong>gsseems to go on. Your dear old friend comes with you across apatch <strong>of</strong> boulders: ' What's the matter with him ? Why can't hecome along? Doesn't he realize we'll never get <strong>in</strong> to d<strong>in</strong>ner?Us<strong>in</strong>g his h<strong>and</strong>s now! Why on earth doesn't he just st<strong>and</strong> up<strong>and</strong> step out?' Now, I know.In a Jubilee number, when a glance through the backwardabyss <strong>of</strong> time seems appropriate, one more attempt to describe thetwo sides <strong>of</strong> the account sheet may perhaps be fitt<strong>in</strong>g. ' Thegood old days;' oughtn't they to be called ' the good young days?'Or are there really considerable compensations to look forwardto? Is it only time which makes the past seem so glow<strong>in</strong>g?Were the days when we did so much <strong>and</strong> cared so much about itas happy as we recall? My Diary writes up many a failure as amajor tragedy, but, equally, successes, by its account, hardlystopped short <strong>of</strong> Paradise.Decode all this—you who are sow<strong>in</strong>g your ' good old days' atthis hour. Let me try, if I can, to leap back to m<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> say howthe memory-enwrapped ' was-birds ' about me seemed to methen.Wet, mack<strong>in</strong>toshed backs crunch<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>f <strong>in</strong> the ra<strong>in</strong> is the firstvision <strong>of</strong> such be<strong>in</strong>gs that comes back. I must have been a fiveyear-oldat a w<strong>in</strong>dow, wonder<strong>in</strong>g where they were go<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>in</strong>those noisy great boots. (Nowadays, Vibram-borne, howsilently such parties sometimes float past as <strong>in</strong> a dream). Some<strong>of</strong> these awesome grown-ups were to become members <strong>of</strong> theClub, one an Orig<strong>in</strong>al Member, Clem Ormiston-Chant. WillMcNaught used to put on a mask <strong>and</strong> how I ran away <strong>in</strong> fright.Much later I was to climb a lot with them both.D
272 THE GOOD YOUNG DAYSI first saw a climb<strong>in</strong>g rope <strong>in</strong> 1915. What an aura accruedto its owner, Herbert Carr, to whom I owe the eternal debt <strong>of</strong>hav<strong>in</strong>g first taken me up a real climb. How many climbs weenjoyed together thereafter!Well I remember the morn<strong>in</strong>g, 12th June, 1917, when I saw abig packet, from the Editor, on the breakfast table. Good oldstyle: porridge, kippers, bacon <strong>and</strong> eggs ... all steam<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong>miraculously ready <strong>in</strong> the breakfast room. The gong went <strong>and</strong>down you came or there was trouble. My heart sank. Back aga<strong>in</strong>.No! Only one <strong>of</strong> my two efforts was <strong>in</strong> the package. In place<strong>of</strong> the other was a cheque for two gu<strong>in</strong>eas. That very afternoonI bought (<strong>in</strong> Shaftesbury Avenue <strong>in</strong> that unforgettable atmosphere<strong>of</strong> cord <strong>and</strong> thread) my first climb<strong>in</strong>g rope. I had longpromised myself to buy it with the first proceeds <strong>of</strong> my writ<strong>in</strong>g.At that epoch ropes were always Beale's Alp<strong>in</strong>e Club manilla,with that red thread first down the middle, if I recall aright, <strong>and</strong>then down each <strong>of</strong> the three str<strong>and</strong>s.In those days the fare was absurdly different from what it isnow <strong>and</strong> five shill<strong>in</strong>gs a day would <strong>of</strong>ten cover board <strong>and</strong>lodg<strong>in</strong>g, all found. Mrs. Harris, <strong>of</strong> Parkgate, that prodigiouscharacter, had a conception <strong>of</strong> cater<strong>in</strong>g which the present generationcannot, fortunately, even imag<strong>in</strong>e. There were few folkabout then, <strong>and</strong> Mrs. Wilson, <strong>of</strong> Burnthwaite (enchanted spot)would give you tea, after a wet climb, by the kitchen fireside <strong>in</strong>the golden lamplight, <strong>and</strong> make you feel comfort<strong>in</strong>gly at home.Of course no bathroom; little shed <strong>in</strong> the garden everywhere.Gett<strong>in</strong>g up from London had <strong>of</strong>ten to be preceded by af<strong>in</strong>ancial feat. Did I sell or pawn that purple tweed overcoat, Iused to be so fond <strong>of</strong>? A bun only for lunch, for how manydays, how much would that eventually save? It used to berather dist<strong>in</strong>guished too, <strong>and</strong>, I felt, dar<strong>in</strong>g, to travel by nighttra<strong>in</strong> then. You saved a day, <strong>and</strong> the cost <strong>of</strong> a bed thereby. Butnobody, <strong>in</strong> the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g, did it. The night tra<strong>in</strong>s were almostalways empty, someth<strong>in</strong>g aga<strong>in</strong> hard to th<strong>in</strong>k not a dream today,<strong>and</strong> you could usually lie down flat <strong>and</strong> sleep between the needlessvisits <strong>of</strong> the ticket collector. How he enjoyed slid<strong>in</strong>g thatdoor! But even the drear<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>of</strong> drizzl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> smoky dawn atCarnforth was somehow irradiated by a belief that one couldactually already taste the mounta<strong>in</strong> air.The lonel<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>and</strong> oddity <strong>of</strong> those night journeys enhancedone's feel<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> how strange it was to be a climber—nobody else
Dorothy Pilley Richards 111was—except climbers, <strong>of</strong> course! But then the only climbers oneknew one had met through climb<strong>in</strong>g — otherwise they weremythical people <strong>in</strong> unadvertised, little-read books <strong>and</strong> as remoteas Redsk<strong>in</strong>s. When I started, there were none <strong>in</strong> the ord<strong>in</strong>arywalks <strong>of</strong> life, none <strong>in</strong> the family circle yet, none among schoolfriends, none came by the <strong>of</strong>fice. One had really done someth<strong>in</strong>gdrastic by becom<strong>in</strong>g a climber. Heaven alone knew how, <strong>and</strong>climb<strong>in</strong>g wasn't <strong>in</strong> the least like play<strong>in</strong>g tennis, which everyonemore or less did. And it wasn't smiled on either — not withsmiles you like to see. In those days, even up <strong>in</strong> the Lakes, agirl couldn't walk about a village <strong>in</strong> climb<strong>in</strong>g clothes withouthard stares from the women <strong>and</strong> sniggers from the louts.A little later came the formation <strong>of</strong> the London Section.Dur<strong>in</strong>g the autumn <strong>of</strong> 1920 several <strong>in</strong>formal meet<strong>in</strong>gs took placewith Dr. Hadfield <strong>in</strong> the Chair (he has graced it ever s<strong>in</strong>ce) <strong>and</strong>others closely concerned were Bill Allsup, Ormiston-Chant, JackCoulton, L. Halliday, H. F. Huntley <strong>and</strong> Dorothy Pilley, the last<strong>of</strong> whom was made Secretary <strong>and</strong> carried on until 1925 whenshe went to Canada <strong>and</strong> G. R. Speaker took over. I should liketo have written here about him, but alas, I have set the close <strong>of</strong>these rem<strong>in</strong>iscences earlier. The Section held its first d<strong>in</strong>nerwith Haskett-Smith presid<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> eighty-five were present. Thisformed a powerful bond for those <strong>of</strong> us who lived <strong>in</strong> the South.Varied walks at least once a month <strong>of</strong> about twenty miles began.To me it made all the difference, not only <strong>in</strong> keep<strong>in</strong>g fit but <strong>in</strong>keep<strong>in</strong>g up-to-date with the climber's world.After that the night journey from Euston came to seem lessunusual. The London Section would go up almost en masse tojo<strong>in</strong> Club Meets. At the Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>in</strong> Coniston 1<strong>50</strong> wouldgather <strong>and</strong> the climb<strong>in</strong>g would be on Dow Crag, wet or f<strong>in</strong>e.How well I remember com<strong>in</strong>g upon the legendary figure <strong>of</strong> CecilSl<strong>in</strong>gsby on Litde Arrow Moor.After the D<strong>in</strong>ner there was Ge<strong>of</strong>frey Howard with his wonderfulspeeches, <strong>and</strong> General Bruce walk<strong>in</strong>g round the d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g roomwith a full glass balanced unrippl<strong>in</strong>gly on the top <strong>of</strong> his head.And next morn<strong>in</strong>g A. E. Field would take one up the slopes at apace to make one wonder what had happened to one's w<strong>in</strong>d.At Easter the Meets would be at Wasdale. How the clear-cut,rather ascetic face <strong>of</strong> Owen Glynne Jones used to gaze out <strong>of</strong> itsframe, as it were over our heads; how I used to admire the power<strong>of</strong> those f<strong>in</strong>gers that lay across the ice axe. C. W. Patchell, who
274 THE GOOD YOUNG DAYSgave me tea once from a kettle he had hidden <strong>in</strong> the Honisterslate quarry, told me how he had noticed, as Owen GlynneJones' second, that he would <strong>of</strong>ten use only one f<strong>in</strong>ger on a hold,draw<strong>in</strong>g himself up on it as securely as if he had used his wholeh<strong>and</strong>. Such h<strong>and</strong>s seemed to go with that wild <strong>and</strong> hazardousgame, billiard-fives. I have <strong>of</strong>ten wondered what Mr. <strong>and</strong> Mrs.Whit<strong>in</strong>g thought <strong>of</strong> all that, when you could fish <strong>in</strong>stead. AtWhitsuntide the Club would gather at Mrs. Jopson's at Thornythwaite,where the bees hummed earnestly on warm morn<strong>in</strong>gs<strong>and</strong> parties seemed to take forever <strong>in</strong> gett<strong>in</strong>g away.When I first climbed the Napes Needle, its holds felt smoothenough. And that was <strong>in</strong> the pre-triconni era! ' Trikes ' havesawn away a good deal <strong>of</strong> valuable rock s<strong>in</strong>ce then. In spite <strong>of</strong>C. F. Holl<strong>and</strong>'s cheerful air, perched more like a little stern eaglethan ever above me on that first even<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> my first climb<strong>in</strong>g visitto the Lakes, it was with a hollow, flutter<strong>in</strong>g feel<strong>in</strong>g that Ithought <strong>of</strong> Haskett-Smith dauntlessly scrambl<strong>in</strong>g up it all alone.' Swipes with trikes ' may make pitches technically harder, butstill a first ascent is someth<strong>in</strong>g else aga<strong>in</strong>. Of course there isanother sort <strong>of</strong> ardour <strong>and</strong> a glory about it. What will happen,an old stager may wonder, when there really are no new crags<strong>and</strong> routes to be found. Even about 1918 plenty <strong>of</strong> good judgeswere say<strong>in</strong>g that the barrel was pretty well empty. By 1935 somuch more had happened that even more <strong>and</strong> even better judgessaw the end <strong>in</strong> sight. And s<strong>in</strong>ce then, <strong>of</strong> course, the wholest<strong>and</strong>ard <strong>in</strong> the upper brackets has been transformed aga<strong>in</strong>.Haskett-Smith climbed the Needle when climbs <strong>and</strong> climberswere few <strong>in</strong>deed. But even <strong>in</strong> my early days you could, after ayear or two, know, or know about, almost all the mounta<strong>in</strong>eersyou seemed ever likely to meet, <strong>and</strong> Haskett-Smith could tell you<strong>in</strong> polished <strong>and</strong> witty phrase the most uproarious stories aboutmost <strong>of</strong> them. Forty years on, he carried, <strong>in</strong> everyth<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>in</strong> hishumour, his crisp anecdote, his apt quotation, his waistcoats, cutaway<strong>and</strong> whipcords, the spirit <strong>of</strong> forty years back. On a climbwith him, ' Silence while the leader advances!' was decidedly notthe rule. The idea rather was to give all the party a full stream<strong>of</strong> verbal as well as moral support. Conversation seems a lost art,sometimes, when I th<strong>in</strong>k <strong>of</strong> those tw<strong>in</strong>kl<strong>in</strong>g black eyes <strong>and</strong> thatdeep-set mobile mouth on a London Section walk or, as his guest,at a Fishmongers' D<strong>in</strong>ner. It was a characteristic <strong>of</strong> his unfail<strong>in</strong>gunexpectedness that he left little legacies, many <strong>and</strong> many <strong>of</strong>
Dorothy Pilley Richards 275them, to friends <strong>in</strong> memory <strong>of</strong> their mounta<strong>in</strong> times together. Hewas a rememberer: that was it.Would I could remember like him, <strong>and</strong> people the Wasdale<strong>of</strong> those days for you. With Philip S. M<strong>in</strong>or, for example, thathuge figure <strong>of</strong> a man, with his rollick<strong>in</strong>g laughter, vast whitebeard <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>f<strong>in</strong>ite <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>and</strong> encouragement to young climbers.I met him first <strong>in</strong> 1915 on about his hundredth ascent <strong>of</strong>Snowdon. I thought <strong>of</strong> him as the Pied Piper for the way hecharmed <strong>and</strong> collected young people. And got them <strong>of</strong>f early,too. The long file was follow<strong>in</strong>g down <strong>in</strong> his enormous footstepswhen we were sleepily crawl<strong>in</strong>g up the first slopes. It was he wh<strong>of</strong>irst suggested to me that impossible ambition—be<strong>in</strong>g admittedas a member <strong>of</strong> the Club. I have told before how he mentionedit just after I had fallen <strong>of</strong>f the Barn Door Traverse at floweryBurnthwaite <strong>and</strong> how it had enheartened me to try aga<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong>succeed.The other names, however, will have to be mentioned <strong>in</strong>no particular order. There were Pat <strong>and</strong> H. M. Kelly to whomI owe so much. Here is a note from a letter <strong>of</strong> Pat's about herclimb<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Jones from Deep Ghyll alone. ' A bite <strong>of</strong> lunch <strong>in</strong>Deep Ghyll, some moderate climb<strong>in</strong>g to get warm <strong>and</strong> to ga<strong>in</strong>confidence, <strong>and</strong> then a delight which only a rock-climber canappreciate—to st<strong>and</strong> on a mere <strong>in</strong>ch or so <strong>of</strong> rock <strong>and</strong> look downan almost sheer 200 feet: the awesome exhilaration <strong>of</strong> a delicate,airy, upward step to a toehold on which to balance beforegrasp<strong>in</strong>g a firm bit <strong>of</strong> rock securely with both h<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> sorais<strong>in</strong>g oneself on <strong>and</strong> up to the l<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> pure delight—out <strong>in</strong> thesunsh<strong>in</strong>e to sit on top <strong>of</strong> Pisgah <strong>and</strong> have a view to satisfy all hilllovers. Just across the way was the Pike, with its summit cairn<strong>and</strong> new War Memorial. Gable, Kirkfell, Yewbarrow, theScrees: the very names will call up the picture to one who knows.'It shows what climb<strong>in</strong>g was to this remarkable personality whowas the chief <strong>in</strong>spirer <strong>of</strong> the P<strong>in</strong>nacle Club.There were A. W. Wakefield <strong>and</strong> Eustace Thomas. It waswith the Kellys that I watched Wakefield coach<strong>in</strong>g Thomas,teach<strong>in</strong>g him how to break his own <strong>Fell</strong> Walk<strong>in</strong>g record. Therewere lively Mrs. Wakefield, <strong>and</strong> G. A. <strong>and</strong> Mrs. Solly, whomothered us all, while he supplied climb<strong>in</strong>g maxims withsolemnity. They could, however, pop back <strong>in</strong>to one's consciousnessat the timely moment with effect. It is to him that' Silencewhile the leader is advanc<strong>in</strong>g' is ascribed. He is said to have
276 THE GOOD YOUNG DAYSenunciated it while lead<strong>in</strong>g the first ascent <strong>of</strong> Eagle's Nest Arete.There were George <strong>and</strong> Ashley Abraham. How the picture <strong>of</strong>the Eagle's Nest <strong>in</strong> The Complete Mounta<strong>in</strong>eer used to haunt mydreams. There was Herbert Ca<strong>in</strong>, another encourager, wh<strong>of</strong><strong>in</strong>ished as he wished, walk<strong>in</strong>g down Langdale after a happy dayon the <strong>Fell</strong>s.There were the Somervells, C. G. Crawford <strong>and</strong> BentleyBeetham. There was John Hirst <strong>and</strong> the Wells sisters, <strong>and</strong>George Basterfield who sang <strong>in</strong> the even<strong>in</strong>gs, <strong>and</strong> Darw<strong>in</strong>Leighton with his dialect <strong>and</strong> his exquisite bird cries, <strong>and</strong> HarryScott <strong>and</strong> C. D. Yeomans with their anecdotes. There wereGeorge Bower <strong>and</strong> J. B. Meldrum, Doughty <strong>and</strong> Hughes.There was Dennis Murray, with his dash<strong>in</strong>g style—I saw himl<strong>and</strong> on scree when he was explor<strong>in</strong>g his climb on Dow Crag<strong>and</strong> rise unharmed with the air <strong>of</strong> one complet<strong>in</strong>g part <strong>of</strong> theprogramme. There were Jack <strong>and</strong> Rose Coulton <strong>and</strong> BillAllsup, the Appleyards, ' Bones ' Harl<strong>and</strong>, T. R. Burnett <strong>and</strong> theChorleys. There were C. D. Frankl<strong>and</strong>, Mabel Barker <strong>and</strong> A. R.Thompson, the last show<strong>in</strong>g how courage can triumph overh<strong>and</strong>icap. There were Miss Ward <strong>and</strong> Miss Stoker, HerbertCarr <strong>and</strong> his parents. There were Osborne Walker, W. G.Milligan, R. H. Hewson, Brian Mart<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> J. B. Wilton, all oldfaithfuls at Wasdale Head. There were George Anderson,Graham Wilson, Raymond Shaw <strong>and</strong> Morley Wood. Therewere Mary Glynne, Dorothy Thompson, Mrs. Eden-Smith <strong>and</strong>Nancy Ridyard. But I am approach<strong>in</strong>g later years (I am try<strong>in</strong>gto stop by 1926) <strong>and</strong>, <strong>in</strong> any case, there is a chance, <strong>in</strong> mak<strong>in</strong>g alist <strong>of</strong> my heroes <strong>and</strong> hero<strong>in</strong>es, that I may accidentally leave outsome well - loved name. The m<strong>in</strong>ute I let this go — from theAlmagell Alp — a str<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> deeply remembered figures frequent<strong>in</strong>gWasdale will stalk across my memory's screen.' Peopled ' Wasdale is, <strong>in</strong> a different sense now. There wereneither tents nor caravans nor car-camps, swimmers nor sunbathersnor picnickers on Wastwater's shore or under the Brackencloseoak grove then. And the paths showed far less trace <strong>of</strong>frequentation. The ' Guides' Route ' to Scafell hardly shewed,the tracks over Styhead <strong>and</strong> up Gable were modest, seemly,grassy paths. Someth<strong>in</strong>g strange seems to have happened. Ihaven't seen <strong>in</strong> other mounta<strong>in</strong>s—except with the P.y. G. track,perhaps — anyth<strong>in</strong>g like the dis<strong>in</strong>tegration that the Styhead hassuffered from. There are plenty <strong>of</strong> paths <strong>in</strong> the Alps which can
Dorothy Pilley Richards 277carry quite as much traffic over very similar terra<strong>in</strong> without be<strong>in</strong>gturned <strong>in</strong>to such slop <strong>and</strong> brickyard. And there is that strangereddish torrent <strong>of</strong> rubble which curves down Great Gable toW<strong>in</strong>dy Gap. I don't recall there be<strong>in</strong>g anyth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the sortthere then. Some day, perhaps, will the volunteers who so noblyclean up the litter on Great Gable, turn their devoted h<strong>and</strong>s toconsolidat<strong>in</strong>g a causeway there? The unchurned neighbourrocks lie quiet <strong>and</strong> stable. There is a majestic ten-mile stretch(the Emmund's Path—the Great Gulf Trail) over a similarboulder slope <strong>in</strong> the White Mounta<strong>in</strong>s, which one enthusiast,s<strong>in</strong>gle-h<strong>and</strong>ed, established, it feels forever, so. A new <strong>and</strong>strenuous sport this, suitable perhaps for retir<strong>in</strong>g mounta<strong>in</strong>eers?' Will you beg<strong>in</strong> ?' I hear a voice <strong>in</strong>quire.I notice that nowadays many retir<strong>in</strong>g climbers take up pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gas a means perhaps sometimes <strong>of</strong> still pursu<strong>in</strong>g the old elusivequestion: What the hold that mounta<strong>in</strong>s have on people may be ?Just as some try to analyse it <strong>in</strong> Diaries! 1 have sometimes feltthat some people may climb as a way <strong>of</strong> dodg<strong>in</strong>g this question,not explor<strong>in</strong>g it. And, maybe, to some climbers there is no suchquestion at all, any more than there would be on a race track. IfI remember aright you could never have guessed from theclimb<strong>in</strong>g conversation <strong>of</strong> any groups I have known, that any suchconcern possessed them. Nowadays, what with changes <strong>in</strong>nomenclature, grad<strong>in</strong>g, technique, equipment, procedure <strong>and</strong>style, I can listen to an hour's climb<strong>in</strong>g talk <strong>and</strong> hardly followmore than when I used to st<strong>and</strong> by while Darw<strong>in</strong> Leighton talkedto a farmer <strong>in</strong> dialect! There seems an immense difference, butwhether it goes deep <strong>in</strong>to <strong>in</strong>tent <strong>and</strong> spirit I am not sure. Thevery accomplished young climbers <strong>of</strong> today climb harder climbs<strong>and</strong> climb better. They use means our climbs did not need.But when I th<strong>in</strong>k back to our preoccupations with new climbs,with the nam<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> description <strong>of</strong> them (should it be CelestialOmnibus or Other K<strong>in</strong>gdom; why not Arcadia, Elysstum orTimbuctoo? A groove, or a gangway? A bracket or a flange?We would <strong>of</strong>ten sit up so late over it all that we couldn't wakeup <strong>in</strong> the morn<strong>in</strong>g till ten), with technique as we understood it,with just what made one climb or day so much much better thananother, <strong>and</strong> with the unspoken feel<strong>in</strong>gs which lay beh<strong>in</strong>d allthat was discussable, I am not so sure. There was no mystiqueabout it for the parties I climbed <strong>in</strong>, I know that. None the less,there were privacies <strong>of</strong> serious, self-critical feel<strong>in</strong>g. Climb<strong>in</strong>g
278 THE GOOD YOUNG DAYSexpressed someth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> was <strong>in</strong> its own way an art. But almostnobody talked <strong>of</strong> it this way. I certa<strong>in</strong>ly didn't. So possiblythe seem<strong>in</strong>g absence <strong>of</strong> this theme <strong>in</strong> current up-to-the-dayclimb<strong>in</strong>g conversation is no pro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> anyth<strong>in</strong>g.Another th<strong>in</strong>g I have not heard much discussed, then or now, isthe extraord<strong>in</strong>ary conjunctions <strong>of</strong> the garden <strong>and</strong> the wild whichLakel<strong>and</strong> valleys <strong>of</strong>fer. Wales, on the whole has to separatethem. Bettws—Ogwen are <strong>in</strong> different zones. But even Burnthwaite,bleakest <strong>of</strong> dales as Wasdale is, puts a foreground <strong>of</strong>blossom under the sky-scraper gleam <strong>of</strong> the Ridges. And theway banks <strong>of</strong> rhododendron <strong>and</strong> azalea <strong>and</strong> showers <strong>of</strong> laburnumblend with the fells <strong>and</strong> rock bluffs is peculiar. I th<strong>in</strong>k Ialways thought so <strong>and</strong> that this isn't only a veteran's concern.About the time I earned the money for my first rope Iremember someone sourly suggest<strong>in</strong>g that it might not, <strong>in</strong> myown <strong>in</strong>terest, be a wise th<strong>in</strong>g to write articles about the mounta<strong>in</strong>s.There might not be room on them if too many took thetendered advice. What is certa<strong>in</strong> is that fellside <strong>and</strong> cliff becomeother than they were as soon as they are thronged. They <strong>of</strong>ferdifferent pleasures <strong>and</strong> it is very possible that the people who likethem crowded wouldn't feel so happy if they had them to themselves.There is no deny<strong>in</strong>g that the lover <strong>of</strong> solitude revisit<strong>in</strong>gScafell Pike after long absence can catch herself sigh<strong>in</strong>g for achance to echo back Dorothy Wordsworth's echo <strong>of</strong> Gray'sElegy .—' Full many a Flower is born to blush unseen,And waste its Sweetness on the desart Air.'' Flowers, the most brilliant feathers, <strong>and</strong> even gems, scarcelysurpass <strong>in</strong> colour<strong>in</strong>g some <strong>of</strong> those masses <strong>of</strong> stone, which nohuman eye beholds, except the shepherd or traveller be ledthither by curiosity: <strong>and</strong> how seldom must this happen!'Try m<strong>in</strong>or summits, try Greenhow End, say, <strong>and</strong> its crags, <strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong> the month <strong>of</strong> June, whoever may feel so may be advised. Infact, days <strong>of</strong> any style, 18th Century if so desired, can readily beobta<strong>in</strong>ed . . .Act<strong>in</strong>g on the valued advice <strong>of</strong> William Allsup, <strong>of</strong> Bridgend,Patterdale, we crossed his hospitable threshold <strong>in</strong> his companyat about 9-17 a.m. on 21st June, <strong>1956</strong>. Up Deepdale we madeour way, paus<strong>in</strong>g frequently to admire the wild mounta<strong>in</strong>
Dorothy Pilley Richards 279scenery, to near the po<strong>in</strong>t where the light grassy sheep track turnstowards the Beck. Here our host stationed himself to observeour progress, recl<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g at ease aga<strong>in</strong>st a smooth convenientlysloped boulder <strong>in</strong> a fashion which tempted us to l<strong>in</strong>ger with him.But the sun was already pour<strong>in</strong>g down rays fierce enough to warnus that one <strong>of</strong> the warmest days <strong>of</strong> the summer was <strong>in</strong> course <strong>of</strong>■development. We accord<strong>in</strong>gly proceeded towards the base <strong>of</strong>the great bastion <strong>of</strong> cliffs which descends to divide the head <strong>of</strong>the valley <strong>and</strong> mounted—somewhat slowly, we felt our observerwould remark—up a beehive-shaped talus <strong>and</strong> across round thecraggy slope to the left, halt<strong>in</strong>g from time to time to wave to themotionless watcher <strong>and</strong> rega<strong>in</strong> breath. As soon as we werescreened from his view by the flank <strong>of</strong> the ridge, be<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a sort<strong>of</strong> dimple or dell at the foot <strong>of</strong> a wide sweep <strong>of</strong> light brown slabspatterned with green grass, we sat down to repose, <strong>and</strong>, op<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gthat there would be no dead sheep <strong>in</strong> the valley head above us, torefresh our limbs <strong>and</strong> quench our thirst at the rivulet whichrushed foam<strong>in</strong>g by at the edge <strong>of</strong> the slabs where they dippedunder the grass upon which we were repos<strong>in</strong>g. The ridge downfrom Hart Crag before us was <strong>in</strong> its lower reaches splashed everywherewith hawthorn bloom, whose peculiar sweetness was borneto us on every zephyr <strong>and</strong> m<strong>in</strong>gled with the scent <strong>of</strong> hot youngbracken <strong>and</strong> a rival but different sweetness. It took us somelittle while to trace this latter to a nearby cleft <strong>in</strong> the slope, wherethe mounta<strong>in</strong> ash was <strong>in</strong> flower, its roots laved by the stream.Proceed<strong>in</strong>g, we wound our way up the slabs <strong>and</strong> ga<strong>in</strong>ed aremarkable outlook po<strong>in</strong>t: a l<strong>of</strong>ty detached crest overlook<strong>in</strong>g thepr<strong>of</strong>ound recesses <strong>of</strong> the longer, or northern branch <strong>of</strong> Deepdale.Immediately opposite rose the bold form <strong>of</strong> St. Sunday Crag(2,756 ft.) <strong>and</strong> far below, at the same place as before, a wellfocussed gaze — through field glasses — seemed to make out thefigure <strong>of</strong> our friend . . . either asleep or still attentive to ourprogress. Some conspicuous signal seemed to be called for.Tak<strong>in</strong>g from my knapsack a long white silken nightgown Iagitated it vigorously <strong>in</strong> the breeze. Immediate success rewardedthis effort. An extremely bright but microscopically m<strong>in</strong>utespeck <strong>of</strong> light began to flash back to us <strong>in</strong> reply. To this apocket mirror I had <strong>in</strong> my sack seemed the appropriate means <strong>of</strong>response: <strong>and</strong> had we <strong>in</strong>deed been conversant with the MorseCode, no doubt a lively conversation might have ensued. Time,however, <strong>and</strong> the claims <strong>of</strong> Fairfield, not to mention our descent
280 THE GOOD YOUNG DAYS<strong>and</strong> return to Dungeon Ghyll were call<strong>in</strong>g. So with a lastflourish <strong>of</strong> my nightgown, we went on our way.The above will show that solitude <strong>and</strong> unfrequented ways arestill not hard to f<strong>in</strong>d. Until Fairfield's summit we had themounta<strong>in</strong>s entirely to ourselves <strong>and</strong> might <strong>in</strong>deed have thoughtthem as seldom visited as Dorothy Wordsworth's Scafell Pike.What can I say as any sort <strong>of</strong> conclusion to this <strong>in</strong>consequentcollection <strong>of</strong> remember<strong>in</strong>gs? No more than that a time comes,early or late, for every mounta<strong>in</strong>eer when it is well (<strong>in</strong> de laMare's words) to :—Look thy last on all th<strong>in</strong>gs lovely . . .S<strong>in</strong>ce that all th<strong>in</strong>gs thou wouldst praiseBeauty took from those who loved themIn other days.
CAMP CHRISTMASGraham Sutton' Brass-monkey weather !'The Chief Centurion ducked through the archway <strong>in</strong>to thecookhouse glow. For a moment he held the door ajar, star<strong>in</strong>gdown the long valley. Bleak fellsides hemmed it, with a powder<strong>of</strong> early snow along their tops. No houses showed <strong>in</strong> it noRoman setder's villa, no barbarian hovel; swamp <strong>and</strong> dwarf-forestchoked it; even the dogged Britons <strong>of</strong> West Cumberl<strong>and</strong> couldnot hope to farm there. At its shore-end n<strong>in</strong>e miles away, asmudge o£ wood smoke hung over Clanoventa harbour: <strong>and</strong>beyond Clanoventa noth<strong>in</strong>g but misty sea, with a bowstr<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>gold stretched taut along its rim where the pale sun drooped tohis sett<strong>in</strong>g.' Not up to st<strong>and</strong>ard!' judged the centurion. From theCamp, if a man had a sense <strong>of</strong> wonder, he could watch pageants<strong>in</strong> the even<strong>in</strong>g sky that would cause him to catch his breath: butnot while the north-easter blew. ' And a blizzard tonight ?'he said.'That's Cumbria for you!' growled the cookhouse lancecorporal.' December still a week to run, <strong>and</strong> the snow 'erealready! And then four ruddy months till summer, if there isany summer. Sweet Cumbria, kiss me . . . Step <strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> shutthe door, Centurion, let's 'ave a bit o' warm!'The centurion nodded. Hardknott Camp was no Capri. Theshort summers roasted you; the long grim w<strong>in</strong>ters snowed youup; the ra<strong>in</strong>storms lashed you at all seasons. And the monotony— <strong>in</strong> a lifetime <strong>of</strong> soldier<strong>in</strong>g, the grey centurion had seen hisshare <strong>of</strong> active service: but not s<strong>in</strong>ce they sent him here. Foryears this high mounta<strong>in</strong>-camp had been no more than a roadhouse,a place where troops were fed <strong>and</strong> rested on their marches<strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong>; two hours, three hours till a trumpet was blown, theeagles hoisted, <strong>and</strong> the detachment clattered away up the pass,leav<strong>in</strong>g the garrison to that bleak lonel<strong>in</strong>ess which was another<strong>of</strong> their conditions, <strong>and</strong> the hardest to bear.By degrees the centurion had found his own technique forcombat<strong>in</strong>g the lonel<strong>in</strong>ess. He was by nature a good deal moretolerant than warrant-<strong>of</strong>ficers could permit themselves to appear.He had learnt from long service <strong>and</strong> his own philosophy tocomb<strong>in</strong>e humaneness with discipl<strong>in</strong>e. On parade he was adamant;<strong>in</strong>to defaulters, leadsw<strong>in</strong>gers <strong>and</strong> all their sort he <strong>in</strong>stilled the
282 CAMP CHRISTMASfear <strong>of</strong> Rome <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> death; but <strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong>f-duty hours he could unbendto an extent which would have sc<strong>and</strong>alised his CO., had thatmart<strong>in</strong>et ever guessed it. Thus tonight he took no <strong>of</strong>fence at thegrous<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the young corporal, but sat <strong>in</strong>dulgent <strong>in</strong> the twilightas the lad limped about his job. There was noth<strong>in</strong>g wrong (heknew) with the corporal: <strong>and</strong> a deal to be sorry for. If the limphad been earned <strong>in</strong> battle, he'd have been honourably dischargedby now with a pension, as like as not; but he had earned it on anillicit raid, sav<strong>in</strong>g a comrade from the British mastiff that wasguard<strong>in</strong>g the farmer's pullets. The centurion knew that too:but had taken no action, judg<strong>in</strong>g the penalty sufficient. Now hesaid, suddenly remember<strong>in</strong>g: ' When you've done belly-ach<strong>in</strong>gyou can cook my supper. Old Balbus promised me a hare.'The lad sighed. ' I wish to Jupiter I was as welcome at theseBritto 'omes as what you are, Centurion!'' You'll learn,' his elder said.That was another <strong>of</strong> his remedies aga<strong>in</strong>st lonel<strong>in</strong>ess. For thepast dozen years he had enjoyed the entry to the farmhouses <strong>of</strong>the dale; unlike his colleagues, he had outgrown the illusion thatall foreigners were barbarians. He asked now :' Did Balbus leave the hare?'' Aye! She's <strong>in</strong> t' pot an' all,' a voice told him.' Hullo, uncle, what cheer!'He had missed Uncle Balbus <strong>in</strong> the shadows beyond the oven.The guest returned his greet<strong>in</strong>g, Britto-fashion, with an upwardjerk <strong>of</strong> the head. ' Fresh-kill't last neet — wi' the farm's complim<strong>in</strong>ts!But I reckoned I'd stop <strong>and</strong> see she didn't mek' herway <strong>in</strong>til yon corporal's belly!' he added.The corporal chose to ignore this taunt, grumbl<strong>in</strong>g assiduouslyat the Cumbrian climate as he set about lay<strong>in</strong>g supper. Thecenturion w<strong>in</strong>ked at Balbus. ' You should have heard him sixmonths back, at a bracken-mow<strong>in</strong>g fatigue: "This flam<strong>in</strong>'Cumbria!" says he. " Noth<strong>in</strong>' like it s<strong>in</strong>ce Egypt " '' And <strong>in</strong> Egypt,' put <strong>in</strong> the corporal, ' you got no flam<strong>in</strong>'bracken to sweat <strong>of</strong>f o' your parade-ground, what's more!'The old farmer said quietly: ' Inside three year, there'll be neabrack<strong>in</strong>s to sweat <strong>of</strong>f your bit o' Hardknott neether, if ye fettleit as I tell ye.' But the corporal turned on him.' What's this, uncle? Three years ?'' De-frondisation!' expla<strong>in</strong>ed the centurion. ' Three years'<strong>in</strong>tensive root-starvation — that's the way, Balbus says.'
Graham Sutton 283' Does 'e, by Jupiter! Three years' <strong>in</strong>tensive ruddy brackenmow<strong>in</strong>'— is that 'is programme?'' Nea mow<strong>in</strong>' hooivver!' retorted Balbus. ' Ye'll not wantnobbut a few lengths o' cha<strong>in</strong>, an' a pony an' a young lad. I'lllikely do the job meself if I fit it <strong>in</strong> afore hay-mekk<strong>in</strong>' —. ' Hestood up <strong>and</strong> wrapped the wolfsk<strong>in</strong> round his shoulders. ' Itcan be done, it can be done — Romans doesn't knaw ivveryth<strong>in</strong>'!I've tell't centurion the trick <strong>of</strong> it, ye can tek't or leave it!Good-neet '' How's missus keep<strong>in</strong>g?' the centurion called after him.' She's mendit f<strong>in</strong>ely — thanks to thee an' thy cure.'' My cure won't work a second time; so you'd best watch outthat she don't relapse — nor you neither!' he added.' I can tek' a h<strong>in</strong>t! I'll th<strong>in</strong>k on 'As the door closed beh<strong>in</strong>d him, the cook raised his eyebrows.' What's this crack about cur<strong>in</strong>' 'em?''Top-secret!' the centurion countered. 'Now then, paradethat hare . . .'Later, when he had cleared away the wreck <strong>of</strong> the hare, thecook said cautiously: ' You dropped a '<strong>in</strong>t — no more than a<strong>in</strong>s<strong>in</strong>uendo, it wasn't — about some cure what you performed onthem Britto buddies o' yours?'' Sharp, aren't you?' commented the centurion. Then heleaned back <strong>and</strong> loosed his belt. ' Very well, you can have theyarn: <strong>and</strong> keep it under your helmet . . . You'll m<strong>in</strong>d that flapthere was, October, when the quarter-bloke missed a sk<strong>in</strong>?'' By Venus, 'e didn't 'alf blow up!'' It was old Balbus won it — oh, he's no scrounger, Balbusisn't! But his wife had been ail<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> he reckoned a sk<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong>w<strong>in</strong>e 'ud fix her up, <strong>and</strong> funds wouldn't run; so he helped himselfto it, see?'' An' you \newV' Afterwards, I did. I'd dropped <strong>in</strong>, <strong>and</strong> Balbus <strong>of</strong>fered mea p<strong>in</strong>t o' mead, <strong>and</strong> to draw it myself, he said. When I wentthrough I see the empty w<strong>in</strong>esk<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> his dairy, conspicuous:government-mark an' all.'The cook whistled. ' And you've said noth<strong>in</strong>k?'' I said plenty. " There's an object <strong>in</strong> there that didn't oughtto be <strong>in</strong> there," I said: "you fetch a spade <strong>and</strong> dig a hole <strong>and</strong>bury it quick," I said, " you old bastard! Or you'll have us bothon the mat " Which Balbus saw to.'
284 CAMP CHRISTMAS' Cor stone my sacred chickens!If the quarter-bloke knew' He knows. I broke it to him.' " The w<strong>in</strong>e's drunk," I toldhim, " the old lady's better, <strong>and</strong> the goodwill's worth more toyou an' me an' Caesar than a dozen w<strong>in</strong>esk<strong>in</strong>s," I said.'' 'Ence your 'are!' commented the corporal drily.' Hence more than hares, by a long sight!' said the centurion.' Old Balbus isn't go<strong>in</strong>g to stop at hares, there's this brackensecrethe's giv<strong>in</strong>g us. Goodwill's an asset — which rem<strong>in</strong>ds me,I'll have the residue <strong>of</strong> Balbus's hare put up cold <strong>in</strong> a haversack;I'm on forty-eight-hour, tomorrow.'The cook stared. ' Two days' leaf, wasted <strong>in</strong> a ruddy blizzard!Where on earth'll you go?'' To a farm outside Clanoventa.'' Brittoes aga<strong>in</strong>?'' That's right. They've sent me up an <strong>in</strong>vitation, they've aFestival on.'' What k<strong>in</strong>d o' festival ?'' K<strong>in</strong>d o' th<strong>in</strong>g I was talk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>. Goodwill: good neighbours-.feast your friend, forget your enemy — feast him too, if he'llcome!'' Feast your enemy? Pollux!'' It's a cult -— ' The centurion shrugged. ' M<strong>in</strong>d you, Idon't set up to be a religious man; but they got someth<strong>in</strong>g. You'llhave heard <strong>of</strong> 'em — Christians, eh?'' But you a<strong>in</strong>'t Christian ? That's a belly-ach<strong>in</strong>' slave-religion,that is!'' I don't sign on with 'em,' allowed the centurion. ' I can'tsee eye-to-eye with all the rigmarole they pr<strong>of</strong>ess. But they'vesome useful notions.'' Such as — ?'' Why, this goodwill! There isn't enough <strong>of</strong> it about.'' Goodwill 'oo to? Not all an' sundry, you don't mean? Notgoodwill to the Brittoes!''Why not? They're yuman.'' They're barbarians,' said the corporal.' That's no odds. Treat chaps right, they'll treat you right —Brittoes or any other. And we're neighbours, at that: no option!We got 'em wished on us for neighbours, same as they got uswished on them: no choice for neither <strong>of</strong> us.'' Neighbours my foot! We're Rome!'
Graham Sutton 285' That's what these Christians come out strong on,' the oldsoldier pursued. ' We're all each other's neighbours, savvy?From here to Mespot, Carthage to Caucasus — Brittoes an' Wogsan' all. And I reckon they're not so far out, neither.'' I'll grant you this much,' said the corporal grudg<strong>in</strong>gly:' s<strong>in</strong>ce you been chief-centurion 'ere, you got the Brittoes l<strong>in</strong>ed upcivil — eat<strong>in</strong>' out <strong>of</strong> your '<strong>and</strong>! This is the only spot I've served<strong>in</strong> yet where a chap can go fish<strong>in</strong>' on 'is 'alf-day alone, <strong>and</strong> notcome back to camp at night with an arrow-'ead <strong>in</strong> 'is 1' That's what I'm driv<strong>in</strong>g at,' the centurion nodded. ' Betterthan hares, that is!'' What beats me though — no <strong>of</strong>fence, I 'ope, Centurion '' Off the record, young feller '' If you a<strong>in</strong>'t Christian, where <strong>in</strong> 'Ades did you pick up yourfancy views?'' From my old man, eventually.'' Was 'e a Christian?'' Not so as you'd notice it — regulations were stricter then. Buthe'd a — he'd an experience while he was soldier<strong>in</strong>g out east,that seems to have shook him proper. Changed his whole nature,so he said; <strong>and</strong> he passed his views on to me.'' This goodwill bus<strong>in</strong>ess, 'e passed on?'' That's right: what I been tell<strong>in</strong>g you. Goodwill to all sorts,love your neighbour, live an' let live, says he. I never paid muchheed to him — be<strong>in</strong>g young then, <strong>and</strong> fancy<strong>in</strong>g that I was tough<strong>and</strong> the old man a back number; but when I'd been throughthirty year <strong>of</strong> soldier<strong>in</strong>g I begun to th<strong>in</strong>k he was right. I've triedmy old man's tactic out s<strong>in</strong>ce I come here as chief-centurion —<strong>and</strong> by Jupiter, does it answer!'' It does for you; you get the 'are!' said the corporal sulkily.' Well, you? You get no arrow <strong>in</strong> your recreational-period;what's more you'll get no July bracken-mow<strong>in</strong>g when oldBalbus has done his stuff. That's your hare, isn't it? Becauseit's your sort clicks for bracken-mow<strong>in</strong>g fatigues: not centurions!'And he gr<strong>in</strong>ned.' Maybe: but Balbus a<strong>in</strong>'t yet proved that we can kill thebracken-roots,' the cook argued.' We can if Balbus says we can — nay, don't ask me, I've noclue. Magic, I wouldn't wonder? Or maybe just good farm<strong>in</strong>gsense;he's as wise as a bag <strong>of</strong> owls. But he'll learn us hissecret.'
286 CAMP CHRISTMAS'If the CO. allows 'im?' groused the corporal. 'Old Brassribs—'' Now then!'' The CO. won't believe <strong>in</strong> magic, it's outside o' Regulations,'e'll say.'' Aye, the C.O.'s our snag — ' The centurion lurched up,took his helmet <strong>of</strong>f the peg <strong>and</strong> prepared to return to quarters.' He won't believe <strong>in</strong> goodwill neither. If he'd learned what myold man learned <strong>in</strong> Syria — but I'll work on him, best I'm able!If he turns Balbus down — '' If he turns Operation Balbus down,' said the corporalgloomily, ' six months from now I'll be bracken-mow<strong>in</strong>' as usual:goodwill or no goodwill!'The other looked back from the doorway. ' In that case,corporal, you'll have to edify your suffer<strong>in</strong>g spirit th<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> myold man. He'd clicked for an unwelcome duty, when he gotthat experience that shook him so. Crucifixion-fatigue, itwas . . . .'
THE LAKELAND LANDSCAPEF. J. MonhhouseIt was John Rusk<strong>in</strong> who wrote <strong>of</strong> his beloved Lake District:' We have to ask then, first, what material there was here tocarve; <strong>and</strong> then what chisels, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> what workman's h<strong>and</strong>, wereused to produce this large piece <strong>of</strong> precious chas<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> embossedwork.' It is obvious that he had an <strong>in</strong>nate appreciation <strong>of</strong> thegeomorphologist's concept that l<strong>and</strong>scape is a function <strong>of</strong> structure,process <strong>and</strong> stage. By ' structure ' is implied on the oneh<strong>and</strong> the rocks, their orig<strong>in</strong>, nature <strong>and</strong> characteristics, on theother h<strong>and</strong> the <strong>in</strong>ternal earth-forces which affect these rocks —the fold<strong>in</strong>g or crumpl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the strata, their fault<strong>in</strong>g orfractur<strong>in</strong>g, their uplift or depression en masse. ' Process'<strong>in</strong>volves all the external forces <strong>of</strong> earth-sculpture, known collectivelyas denudation, which operate as soon as one part <strong>of</strong> theearth's surface beg<strong>in</strong>s to rise relative to another. It <strong>in</strong>cludes thedecay <strong>and</strong> break-up <strong>of</strong> the rocks by the various agents <strong>of</strong> theweather, <strong>and</strong> their erosion by runn<strong>in</strong>g water <strong>and</strong> mov<strong>in</strong>g ice. Itcomprises, too, the transportation <strong>of</strong> vast quantities <strong>of</strong> this erodedmaterial <strong>and</strong> its ultimate deposition <strong>in</strong> lakes, on the flood-pla<strong>in</strong>s<strong>of</strong> rivers, or f<strong>in</strong>ally <strong>in</strong> the sea. The ' stage ' represents the extentto which these external forces have collectively operated, <strong>and</strong> theresultant modification <strong>of</strong> relief so far achieved. Thus theHimalaya, the Alps, the Lake District <strong>and</strong> Anglesey representvarious stages <strong>in</strong> the remorseless destruction <strong>of</strong> the high parts <strong>of</strong>the world. In Anglesey we see a near-ultimate stage, whereperhaps 20,000 feet <strong>of</strong> strata have been removed to form a gentlyundulat<strong>in</strong>g surface cut <strong>in</strong> some <strong>of</strong> the oldest rocks <strong>of</strong> which theseisl<strong>and</strong>s are composed. This surface, known as a penepla<strong>in</strong>(' almost a pla<strong>in</strong> '), is the product <strong>of</strong> more than <strong>50</strong>0 million years<strong>of</strong> denudation.In the light <strong>of</strong> these generalisations, then, we can attempt anappreciation <strong>of</strong> the physical features <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong> today,remember<strong>in</strong>g that any study <strong>of</strong> l<strong>and</strong>-forms, to be adequate, mustbe analytical <strong>and</strong> explanatory as well as descriptive. There is,however, another prelim<strong>in</strong>ary po<strong>in</strong>t. One branch <strong>of</strong> geology hasthe special function <strong>of</strong> elucidat<strong>in</strong>g the record <strong>of</strong> the past events<strong>in</strong> the earth's history as evidenced by a systematic study <strong>of</strong> therocks which form the crust. In other words, a tabulation <strong>of</strong>rocks accord<strong>in</strong>g to their age affords a very convenient time-chartor chronology <strong>of</strong> the earth's history. A table is appended onE
288 THE LAKELAND LANDSCAPEpage 302 <strong>of</strong> a simplified scheme <strong>of</strong> age classification, <strong>in</strong> which areplaced <strong>in</strong> their relative positions the systems <strong>and</strong> <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> rockswhich make up the Lake District <strong>and</strong> its marg<strong>in</strong>s, together withthe major mounta<strong>in</strong>-build<strong>in</strong>g episodes <strong>in</strong>volved.THE ROCKSA glance at the simplified geological map fac<strong>in</strong>g this page willshow that the Lake District consists <strong>of</strong> a mass <strong>of</strong> ancient rocks,surrounded by a discont<strong>in</strong>uous marg<strong>in</strong> or rim <strong>of</strong> appreciablynewer ones. The ancient rocks may be divided <strong>in</strong>to threegroups.The oldest consist <strong>of</strong> a <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> darkish slates, with occasionalcoarser grits, <strong>of</strong> Upper Cambrian <strong>and</strong> Lower Ordovician age.They were orig<strong>in</strong>ally laid down some 400 million years ago asmuds <strong>and</strong> s<strong>and</strong>s <strong>in</strong> the shallow sea which then covered the area.These deposits were changed by long susta<strong>in</strong>ed pressure dur<strong>in</strong>glater periods <strong>of</strong> earth-movement <strong>in</strong>to slates, which as a resultshow a well-marked cleavage, that is, a tendency to split <strong>in</strong>torough slabs or layers along dist<strong>in</strong>ctive planes. Most <strong>of</strong> thenorthern Lakel<strong>and</strong> fells, notably Skiddaw, Saddleback, theGrasmoor group <strong>and</strong> Mellbreak, are formed <strong>of</strong> the SkiddawSlates, the name which has been bestowed upon the whole <strong>series</strong>.In po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> fact, there are many local names applied to <strong>in</strong>dividualdist<strong>in</strong>ctive rock-types with slight differences <strong>in</strong> character, form<strong>and</strong> fossil-content, such as the Loweswater Flags, the KirkstileSlates <strong>and</strong> the Mosser Slates, all named after the locality <strong>in</strong> theLoweswater area where they are particularly well developed. Inthe south-west part <strong>of</strong> the Lakel<strong>and</strong> region, an outly<strong>in</strong>g mass <strong>of</strong>the same Skiddaw Slates forms the rounded hump <strong>of</strong> BlackCombe, which st<strong>and</strong>s out prom<strong>in</strong>ently to the north <strong>of</strong> the Duddonestuary. Although slopes may be quite steep <strong>and</strong> there are somedeeply cut valleys <strong>and</strong> sharp ridges, as on Saddleback <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> theGrasmoor group, on the whole the mounta<strong>in</strong>s composed <strong>of</strong> theserocks are smooth <strong>in</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>ile, for the slates tend to weather ratherhomogeneously <strong>and</strong> uniformly. And while there are some crags,the slates are much too shattered <strong>and</strong> friable for the rock-climber.The heart <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong> consists <strong>of</strong> a vast thickness <strong>of</strong> volcanicrocks—lavas, f<strong>in</strong>e-gra<strong>in</strong>ed ashes <strong>and</strong> coarse agglomerates—whichwere poured out dur<strong>in</strong>g a long period <strong>of</strong> volcanic activity <strong>in</strong>Ordovician times, subsequent to the deposition <strong>of</strong> the SkiddawSlates. They <strong>in</strong>clude also layers <strong>of</strong> much-altered slates, rep-
SkiddawSlatesBorrowdaleVolcanicSeriesConistonLimestone <strong>and</strong>SilurianCarboniferousLimestoneTT7v ^ _CoalMeasuresNew RedS<strong>and</strong>stoneIntrusions (ma<strong>in</strong>lygranitic)A Major Peaks ~\- TownsSIMPLIFIED GEOJLOCICAL MAP OF THE LAKE DISTRICT(Based on the <strong>of</strong>ficial quarter-<strong>in</strong>ch maps, by permission <strong>of</strong> theGeological Survey <strong>of</strong> Great Brita<strong>in</strong>)
SkiddawGreatGableSo I wayPla<strong>in</strong>NorthCumberl<strong>and</strong>CoalfieldHigh PikeCarrock <strong>Fell</strong>ScafellPikeComstonOld ManCartmell<strong>Fell</strong>sMorecambeBaySkiddaw■SlatesBorrowdaleVolcanic SeriesConistonLimestoneV7J77 Silurian\ Y"\'\CoalMeasuresNew RedS<strong>and</strong>stoneAxis <strong>of</strong> Axis <strong>of</strong>Caledonian Tertiaryupfold upliftIntrusions(ma<strong>in</strong>lygranitic)CarboniferousLimestoneSIMPLIFIED SECTION ACROSS THE LAKE DISTRICT FROM NORTH TO SOLTH
F. J. Mon\house 289resent<strong>in</strong>g both mud-flows among the volcanic material <strong>and</strong> veryf<strong>in</strong>e ashes which were drastically affected by pressure <strong>and</strong> heat.Some <strong>of</strong> these afford most attractive ro<strong>of</strong><strong>in</strong>g material, notably thegreen slates <strong>of</strong> Honister, Elterwater <strong>and</strong> Coniston. In fact, theyform much better ro<strong>of</strong><strong>in</strong>g-slates than do the so-called SkiddawSlates, s<strong>in</strong>ce the latter occur <strong>in</strong> thick slabby masses more suitablefor the construction <strong>of</strong> dry-stone walls than for ro<strong>of</strong><strong>in</strong>g.These rocks are known collectively as the Borrowdale VolcanicSeries, although here aga<strong>in</strong> geologists have given names to thevaried rocks <strong>in</strong> different localities, such as the Harter <strong>Fell</strong>Andesites, the Langdale Rhyolite <strong>and</strong> the Sty Head GarnetiferousSeries; the petrology <strong>of</strong> these igneous rocks is <strong>of</strong> great complexity.The various lavas <strong>and</strong> ashes present a most varied resistance todenudation, with the result that the hills <strong>in</strong> the centre <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>have remarkably rugged silhouettes, as compared with theslate country to the north. The massive compact lavas, mostly<strong>and</strong>esites <strong>and</strong> some rhyolites, form the prom<strong>in</strong>ent outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>gcrags—Pillar <strong>Rock</strong>, Boat Howe, Scafell <strong>and</strong> Pike's Crag, Gimmer<strong>and</strong> Dow, <strong>and</strong> the rest <strong>of</strong> the names dear to the rock-climber. Therock is hard <strong>and</strong> resistant, with clean-cut slabs <strong>and</strong> buttresses, <strong>and</strong>although frost can affect it <strong>in</strong> time, it is notable that we use many<strong>of</strong> the actual holds by which the classic climbs were first ascendedyears ago, scarred <strong>and</strong> polished only by the passage <strong>of</strong> cl<strong>in</strong>kers<strong>and</strong> tricounis.The map shows that the majority <strong>of</strong> the Lakel<strong>and</strong> peaks,except for Skiddaw <strong>and</strong> its neighbours already mentioned, areformed <strong>of</strong> these varied volcanic rocks. A narrow belt <strong>of</strong> similarrocks also appears on the surface to the north <strong>of</strong> the Skiddawgroup, form<strong>in</strong>g such summits as High Pike, <strong>of</strong> over 2,000 feet.This is shown on the geological section fac<strong>in</strong>g this page.To the south <strong>of</strong> the Borrowdale Volcanics lies a great <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong>rather younger rocks, form<strong>in</strong>g the lower country aroundW<strong>in</strong>dermere <strong>and</strong> Coniston. There is first a narrow outcrop <strong>of</strong>Coniston Limestone (usually <strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>in</strong> the Ordovician system),too limited to show on the geological map; this can be tracedacross the Lake District along the southern marg<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> theBorrowdale Volcanics. These rocks can be seen north <strong>of</strong> Coniston,on either side <strong>of</strong> the head <strong>of</strong> W<strong>in</strong>dermere, <strong>and</strong> just to the north<strong>of</strong> the village <strong>of</strong> Kentmere. They are succeeded to the south byan extensive <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> shales, slates, grits <strong>and</strong> flags <strong>of</strong> Silurian age.This type <strong>of</strong> country presents a more subdued appearance, with
290 THE LAKELAND LANDSCAPEfew em<strong>in</strong>ences over a thous<strong>and</strong> feet, <strong>and</strong> contrasts markedly withthe rugged peaks to the north. As one walks along the roadfrom Ambleside to Coniston through Yewdale, one is <strong>in</strong> factalmost on the geological boundary; on the right are the craggypeaks <strong>of</strong> the Volcanics, on the left the s<strong>of</strong>ter grits <strong>and</strong> flags (theso-called Bannisdale Series) which form the gentle l<strong>and</strong>scape <strong>of</strong>fields <strong>and</strong> woods around Coniston.In addition to these various older Palaeozoic rocks, there areexposed here <strong>and</strong> there masses <strong>of</strong> granite <strong>and</strong> other complexcrystall<strong>in</strong>e rocks. Molten rock was <strong>in</strong>truded <strong>in</strong>to the country rock<strong>and</strong> solidified slowly at depth; later denudation removed thecover<strong>in</strong>g rocks <strong>and</strong> so exposed <strong>in</strong> places the surfaces <strong>of</strong> the<strong>in</strong>trusions. They <strong>in</strong>clude Carrock <strong>Fell</strong> to the north <strong>of</strong> Skiddaw,Shap <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>in</strong> the east, other extensive masses <strong>in</strong> the Ennerdale <strong>and</strong>Eskdale districts, <strong>and</strong> many smaller areas. Further, numerousm<strong>in</strong>or <strong>in</strong>trusions have been <strong>in</strong>jected <strong>in</strong>to the exist<strong>in</strong>g rocks eitheralong vertical planes (when they form dykes) or horizontally(sills), <strong>and</strong> these too can afford variety <strong>in</strong> the l<strong>and</strong>scape wherethey differ from the country rocks <strong>in</strong> their resistance to erosion.The larger masses, however, are not particularly strik<strong>in</strong>g or conspicuous,s<strong>in</strong>ce they do not differ markedly <strong>in</strong> character from theresistant Older Palaeozoic rocks among which they occur—unlike, for example, the South-West Pen<strong>in</strong>sula, where thegranites <strong>of</strong> Dartmoor <strong>and</strong> Bodm<strong>in</strong> Moor form prom<strong>in</strong>ent upl<strong>and</strong>s.For example, if we walk north-westwards from the summit <strong>of</strong>Pillar down the ridge towards Gillerthwaite, we cross theboundary between the grey lavas <strong>and</strong> the p<strong>in</strong>kish granophyre (asthis type <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>trusive rock is called), but there is no suddenchange or <strong>in</strong>deed any topographical difference apart from thecolour <strong>of</strong> the surface exposures <strong>and</strong> scattered boulders. Geologistsare still not certa<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> the actual age <strong>of</strong> the various <strong>in</strong>trusions,although obviously they are younger than the rocks <strong>in</strong>to whichthey were <strong>in</strong>truded; they are probably associated with the variousearth-movements affect<strong>in</strong>g the region, which we will discuss later.These rocks, then, comprise the Lakel<strong>and</strong> hills. On theirmarg<strong>in</strong>s, however, there are newer rocks, form<strong>in</strong>g a discont<strong>in</strong>uousrim dipp<strong>in</strong>g outwards from the central area. When travell<strong>in</strong>gnorth from Carnforth, one sees the conspicuous white scars <strong>and</strong>the smooth grassy hills <strong>of</strong> the Carboniferous Limestone, such asthose near Grange-over-S<strong>and</strong>s, border<strong>in</strong>g the estuaries <strong>of</strong> MorecambeBay. The famous ' waterworn Westmorl<strong>and</strong> limestone '
F, ]. Mon\house 291is even advertised <strong>in</strong> the garden<strong>in</strong>g journals for mak<strong>in</strong>g rockgardens.Coal Measures occur only <strong>in</strong> the north-west, wherethey <strong>in</strong>clude the workable coals <strong>of</strong> the Cumberl<strong>and</strong> Coalfield. TheNew Red S<strong>and</strong>stone is visible <strong>in</strong> the south-west where it formsthe strik<strong>in</strong>g reddish cliffs <strong>of</strong> St. Bees Head, <strong>and</strong> aga<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> thenorth-east where the coarse p<strong>in</strong>kish outcrops overlook Penrith.F<strong>in</strong>ally, there are patches <strong>of</strong> very recent material — boulder-clay,peat, alluvium <strong>and</strong> pebbles — <strong>in</strong> the valleys.THE STRUCTURESThe long geological history <strong>of</strong> the earth comprises a <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong>recurr<strong>in</strong>g episodes — periods <strong>of</strong> deposition dur<strong>in</strong>g which thematerials form<strong>in</strong>g the rocks were deposited, periods <strong>of</strong> earthmovementwhich crumpled <strong>and</strong> uplifted these rocks, periods <strong>of</strong>denudation when these structures were worn down, to besucceeded by a renewed period <strong>of</strong> deposition on the old erodedsurface. The present relief features <strong>of</strong> the Lake District are <strong>in</strong>effect the resurrection <strong>of</strong> some <strong>of</strong> the cumulative effects <strong>of</strong> several<strong>of</strong> these phases <strong>in</strong> earth-history which have been superimposed oneach other.As the Skiddaw Slates <strong>and</strong> Borrowdale Volcanics are muchmore highly contorted than the Coniston Limestone whichsucceeds them, it is probable that an early period <strong>of</strong> earthmovement<strong>in</strong> late Ordovician times affected the area. This wassucceeded by the deposition <strong>of</strong> the Silurian rocks. The first majorearth-movements took place probably towards the close <strong>of</strong> theSilurian period, between 3<strong>50</strong> <strong>and</strong> 320 millions years ago, earthmovementswhich are known as Caledonian because they affectedparticularly north-west Scotl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>deed much <strong>of</strong> north-westEurope. The rocks were folded up <strong>in</strong>to a broad ridge, with atrend more or less from east-north-east to west-south-west,approximately through the present position <strong>of</strong> Skiddaw. Significantly,this axis lies well to the north <strong>of</strong> the heart <strong>of</strong> the presentdaymounta<strong>in</strong> complex, as shown on the geological section, forreasons which will be appreciated later. In detail, the upfold wasextremely complex, with numerous m<strong>in</strong>or puckers <strong>and</strong> corrugations,some <strong>of</strong> which can still be traced.This uplifted mass was then worn down for some fifty millionyears or so <strong>in</strong>to an undulat<strong>in</strong>g penepla<strong>in</strong>. In the north <strong>of</strong> thearea, along the ma<strong>in</strong> l<strong>in</strong>e <strong>of</strong> uplift where as a result denudationwould be concentrated, both the Silurian <strong>and</strong> Borrowdale
292 THE LAKELAND LANDSCAPEVolcanic rocks were wholly removed, thus reveal<strong>in</strong>g the SkiddawSlates; <strong>in</strong> the centre, only the Silurian rocks were removed, soreveal<strong>in</strong>g the Borrowdale Volcanics; while <strong>in</strong> the lower l<strong>and</strong> tothe south <strong>of</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong> uplift, where denudation was necessarilyless active, the Silurian rocks were largely preserved. This <strong>in</strong>fact is the broad pattern <strong>of</strong> the surface rocks today, although theywere to suffer later vicissitudes. Thus resulted a gently undulat<strong>in</strong>g,worn-down surface.On to this surface there were deposited vast layers <strong>of</strong> CarboniferousLimestone <strong>and</strong> then <strong>of</strong> Coal Measures. In turn, the wholearea was aga<strong>in</strong> uplifted <strong>in</strong> late Carboniferous <strong>and</strong> early Permiantimes, probably as a result <strong>of</strong> what geologists call the' Armorican ' or ' Hercynian ' mounta<strong>in</strong>-build<strong>in</strong>g epoch, whichformed mounta<strong>in</strong> ranges across central Europe. This caused thelimestone strata to be domed-up over the centre <strong>of</strong> the area. Thencame yet another period <strong>of</strong> long-cont<strong>in</strong>ued denudation, whichremoved the central higher part <strong>of</strong> the limestone, so that itsurvives only on the marg<strong>in</strong>s. Follow<strong>in</strong>g this, the New RedS<strong>and</strong>stone was laid down, <strong>in</strong> places on the surface <strong>of</strong> the CarboniferousLimestone, elsewhere on the older rocks. F<strong>in</strong>ally, <strong>in</strong>Tertiary times, some thirty-five million years ago, probablydur<strong>in</strong>g the period <strong>of</strong> earth-movements responsible for theupfold<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the Alp<strong>in</strong>e ranges to the south, the whole region wasaga<strong>in</strong> uplifted <strong>in</strong>to an elongated dome, with an approximate eastwestaxis more or less through the present position <strong>of</strong> Scafell Pike.Some geologists are <strong>of</strong> the op<strong>in</strong>ion that this uplift was caused bymovements <strong>of</strong> great masses <strong>of</strong> molten rock far beneath the surface,<strong>and</strong> probably some <strong>of</strong> the granitic <strong>in</strong>trusions mentioned abovewere formed at the same time. One effect <strong>of</strong> this uplift was tocause widespread ramifications <strong>of</strong> faults or cracks, thus produc<strong>in</strong>gshatter-belts <strong>and</strong> the sudden displacement <strong>of</strong> strata. For example,clean-cut faults def<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> demarcate the Kern Knotts Buttressform<strong>in</strong>g the Crac\, the Chimney <strong>and</strong> the West Chimney, <strong>and</strong>there are countless others.THE DRAINAGE PATTERNThe last great Tertiary uplift thus probably produced anelongated dome. On this dome rivers would tend to flow outwards,more or less radially, upon the uniformly slop<strong>in</strong>g cover <strong>of</strong>the New Red S<strong>and</strong>stone <strong>and</strong> perhaps even on a now whollyvanished cover <strong>of</strong> newer rocks still, such as the Chalk. There
F. J. Mon\house 293followed a long period <strong>of</strong> denudation, as the rivers cut downtheir valleys. The newer rocks, which had determ<strong>in</strong>ed the direction<strong>of</strong> the dra<strong>in</strong>age, were stripped away from the higher parts <strong>of</strong>the dome as the geological section fac<strong>in</strong>g page 289 shows. Therivers, however, ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed their directions over the complexolder rocks below, cross<strong>in</strong>g the different outcrops at all angles.This is what is known as superimposed dra<strong>in</strong>age; the predom<strong>in</strong>antdirection <strong>of</strong> the dra<strong>in</strong>age is a legacy <strong>of</strong> a vanished cover.Today the Derwent flows to the west; the Ehen, Esk <strong>and</strong> Duddonto the south-west; the Crake, Leven <strong>and</strong> Kent to the south; <strong>and</strong>the Eamont <strong>and</strong> Lowther to the north-east via the Eden <strong>in</strong> itswell-def<strong>in</strong>ed trough between the Lakel<strong>and</strong> massif <strong>and</strong> the steepedge <strong>of</strong> the Penn<strong>in</strong>e scarp. It was stressed above that the domewas elongated along a more or less west-east axis, <strong>and</strong> as a resultthe dra<strong>in</strong>age is not truly radial except <strong>in</strong> the west. A watershedcan be traced which curves eastwards from Scafell or Great Gableover Esk Hause, Dunmail Raise <strong>and</strong> Kirkstone Pass to WasdalePike <strong>in</strong> the Shap <strong>Fell</strong>s. North <strong>of</strong> this l<strong>in</strong>e lie Borrowdale,Thirlmere, Ullswater <strong>and</strong> Haweswater, dra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g more or lessnorthwards; south <strong>of</strong> it are the Duddon valley, Coniston,W<strong>in</strong>dermere <strong>and</strong> the Kent valley, dra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g southwards.GLACIATIONAbout a million years ago there began what is known generallyas the Quaternary glaciation, the effects <strong>of</strong> which are still to beseen graphically, even dramatically, etched <strong>in</strong>to the Lakel<strong>and</strong>l<strong>and</strong>scape long after the glaciers <strong>and</strong> permanent snowfields havevanished from Brita<strong>in</strong>. At their greatest development, the icesheetscovered all Brita<strong>in</strong> as far south as a l<strong>in</strong>e runn<strong>in</strong>g roughlyfrom the Severn to the Thames. Glaciologists believe that Brita<strong>in</strong>with<strong>in</strong> the whole Quaternary Ice Age was probably affected byfour glacial maxima, <strong>of</strong> which the second represented the absolutemaximum extent, each separated by milder <strong>in</strong>ter-glacial periods.For example, near St. Bees there are strata conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g peatydeposits, the rema<strong>in</strong>s <strong>of</strong> vegetation which flourished <strong>in</strong> the <strong>in</strong>terglacialperiod, ly<strong>in</strong>g between the dist<strong>in</strong>ctive boulder-clay deposits<strong>of</strong> the second <strong>and</strong> third glacial maxima. It was probably thefourth <strong>and</strong> last <strong>of</strong> the glacial maxima which so strik<strong>in</strong>gly affectedLakel<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> other parts <strong>of</strong> northern Engl<strong>and</strong>, before the progressiveamelioration <strong>of</strong> climate led to the f<strong>in</strong>al disappearance <strong>of</strong>the ice-sheets from these isl<strong>and</strong>s.
294 THE LAKELAND LANDSCAPEDur<strong>in</strong>g this fourth glacial advance, the Lake District, likeother mounta<strong>in</strong> groups, must have nourished its own small icecap,probably located <strong>in</strong> the west-centre <strong>of</strong> the upl<strong>and</strong> area. Fromthis, valley-glaciers similar to those now seen <strong>in</strong> the Alps pusheddownwards <strong>and</strong> outwards, follow<strong>in</strong>g the l<strong>in</strong>es <strong>of</strong> least resistance,that is, the radial pre-glacial valleys. These glacier-tongues musthave been <strong>of</strong> considerable thickness; dist<strong>in</strong>ct ice-worn scratches(or striations) are to be seen on rock outcrops on the Wasdaleside <strong>of</strong> the Scafell range <strong>and</strong> on Helvellyn to a height <strong>of</strong> about2,<strong>50</strong>0 feet. Ultimately the ice-caps <strong>and</strong> glaciers began to shr<strong>in</strong>k,<strong>and</strong> vanished some twenty thous<strong>and</strong> years ago or less.Today there is only occasional w<strong>in</strong>ter snowfall, the sporadiccharacter <strong>of</strong> which is the despair <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong> skiers, but it doesform an attractive element <strong>in</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>ter hill-scenery.Many <strong>of</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong> ridges <strong>and</strong> summits, particularly <strong>in</strong> theeast <strong>of</strong> the district, are remarkably smooth <strong>and</strong> rounded, <strong>and</strong> therehas been considerable discussion as to whether these representareas which were overridden completely by the ice <strong>and</strong> thusheavily eroded, or whether they represent relics <strong>of</strong> the pre-glacialsurface which the ice never covered, even at its maximum. Whateverthe cause, some <strong>of</strong> these smooth ridges, such as the Helvellyn—Dods range extend<strong>in</strong>g northwards towards Threlkeld <strong>and</strong> thelong ridge <strong>of</strong> High Street, form what have been called ' elevateddowns ' <strong>and</strong> provide f<strong>in</strong>e cont<strong>in</strong>uous high-level walk<strong>in</strong>g country.They contrast markedly with the shattered ridges further west,such as the Esk Pike-Bowfell-Cr<strong>in</strong>kle Crags range.Glaciers can potently erode their beds, both by abrad<strong>in</strong>g therock floor with material frozen <strong>in</strong>to the base which is draggedalong like a giant rasp, <strong>and</strong> by freez<strong>in</strong>g on to prom<strong>in</strong>ent blocks<strong>of</strong> well-jo<strong>in</strong>ted rock <strong>and</strong> so ' pluck<strong>in</strong>g ' them away. They transportvast quantities <strong>of</strong> material, from rocks <strong>of</strong> all sizes to f<strong>in</strong>elyground clays, on the surface, with<strong>in</strong> the mass <strong>of</strong> the ice, <strong>and</strong> nearits base. And they deposit material, <strong>in</strong> crescentic term<strong>in</strong>almora<strong>in</strong>es near their extremities, <strong>in</strong> the form <strong>of</strong> lateral mora<strong>in</strong>esalong the valley sides, <strong>in</strong> roughly horizontal sheets <strong>of</strong> boulderclay,or <strong>in</strong> chaotic humps <strong>and</strong> undulations.The cross-pr<strong>of</strong>ile <strong>of</strong> a glaciated valley tends towards a wideopen ' U,' with a flat floor <strong>and</strong> steep sides, as <strong>in</strong> the case <strong>of</strong> mostLakel<strong>and</strong> dales. The valleys are straightened, for the glacier tendsto plane <strong>of</strong>f projections to form ' truncated spurs '; magnificentexamples are shown on the southern slopes <strong>of</strong> Saddleback, <strong>and</strong>
F. J. Mon\house 295along the l<strong>in</strong>e <strong>of</strong> blunted crags overlook<strong>in</strong>g Kentmere on the west.Some valleys end abruptly at their heads <strong>in</strong> a steep wall, knownas a ' trough-end,' for example, the slope above Warnscale Bottomat the head <strong>of</strong> Buttermere, <strong>and</strong> that down which plunges RossettGill <strong>in</strong>to Langdale <strong>and</strong> up which the walker toils on his way toEsk Hause <strong>and</strong> Wasdale.Where the glacier did not apparently fill the pre-glacial valley,there is a pronounced change <strong>of</strong> slope, so form<strong>in</strong>g benches orshoulders above the steep valley walls. Similarly, high tributaryvalleys, formerly graded to the pre-glacial river valley, are left' hang<strong>in</strong>g,' through the deepen<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong> valley, so that theirstreams fall abruptly <strong>in</strong> a <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> cascades. Thus, for example,the Watendlath Beck, ris<strong>in</strong>g on the northern slopes <strong>of</strong> Ullscarf,flows gently northwards through such a hang<strong>in</strong>g valley before itf<strong>in</strong>ally spills over the steep edge <strong>of</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong> valley <strong>in</strong>to Borrowdale,form<strong>in</strong>g Lodore Falls. This sharp drop is accentuatedbecause it is here that the Borrowdale Volcanics give way to themore easily eroded slates.Many <strong>of</strong> the attractive torrents that foam down the hillsidesissue from t<strong>in</strong>y sheets <strong>of</strong> water high among the mounta<strong>in</strong>s; thesetarns are among the most strik<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> characteristic features <strong>of</strong> aglaciated upl<strong>and</strong>. They lie <strong>in</strong> small bas<strong>in</strong>-shaped hollows, knownas cirques or corries, as cwms <strong>in</strong> Wales <strong>and</strong> as combes <strong>in</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>,<strong>of</strong>ten backed by steep crags, such as Pavey Ark beh<strong>in</strong>dStickle Tarn, Dow Crag above Goats Water, <strong>and</strong> many more.The most satisfactory theory <strong>of</strong> their orig<strong>in</strong> is that a shallow preglacialhollow has been progressively enlarged. A patch <strong>of</strong> snowwill be responsible for alternate thaw<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> freez<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the bedrockaround its marg<strong>in</strong>s, caus<strong>in</strong>g it to ' rot' or dis<strong>in</strong>tegrate, whilemelt-water helps to move the result<strong>in</strong>g debris. As the hollowgrows it may nourish dur<strong>in</strong>g a period <strong>of</strong> glaciation a smallpermanent snow-field or even a t<strong>in</strong>y cirque-glacier, particularlyon north-fac<strong>in</strong>g slopes where snow or ice must have l<strong>in</strong>gered longafter the glacial maximum. Meltwater makes its way down boththe bergschrund (the prom<strong>in</strong>ent cleft between the back wall <strong>and</strong>the floor <strong>of</strong> a neve-filled bas<strong>in</strong>) <strong>and</strong> down the whole back wall<strong>of</strong> the cirque. This, by alternate freez<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> thaw<strong>in</strong>g, eats both<strong>in</strong>to the wall <strong>and</strong> ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>s its steepness, <strong>and</strong> also <strong>in</strong>to its floor,thus ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g the bas<strong>in</strong> shape, <strong>and</strong> moreover it provides debriswhich freezes <strong>in</strong>to the base <strong>of</strong> the ice <strong>and</strong> so acts as an abrasive.When the ice f<strong>in</strong>ally disappears, the rock bas<strong>in</strong> rema<strong>in</strong>s as a
296 THE LAKELAND LANDSCAPEstrik<strong>in</strong>g feature <strong>of</strong> the l<strong>and</strong>scape. Not all Lakel<strong>and</strong> combes, <strong>of</strong>course, have steep <strong>and</strong> craggy back walls; some are shallower,with a smooth uniform slope beh<strong>in</strong>d the saucer-shaped floor. Suchis the combe, to the north <strong>of</strong> Ullscarf, <strong>in</strong> which lies Blea Tarnwhence the Watendlath Beck issues. Another is Greenup Combe,through which runs the path from Stonethwaite to Far Easedale<strong>and</strong> so to Grasmere. These shallow combes are probablv theresult <strong>of</strong> snow-patch erosion alone, rather than the work <strong>of</strong> activecirque-glaciers.Where two cirques develop back to back, a steep-walled ridgeor arete rema<strong>in</strong>s; notable examples are Strid<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> SwirralEdges enclos<strong>in</strong>g Red Tarn to the east <strong>of</strong> Helvellyn's summit.Similarly, Rigg<strong>in</strong>dale Crag forms the northern wall <strong>of</strong> the deeplycutcirque <strong>in</strong> which lies Blea Water, under the summit ridge <strong>of</strong>High Street at the head <strong>of</strong> Mardale.One other strik<strong>in</strong>g result <strong>of</strong> glacial erosion must be mentioned.Ice tends to mould masses <strong>of</strong> rock which project above the generallevel <strong>of</strong> the valley-floor or sides. The upstream face <strong>of</strong> such amass is smoothed <strong>and</strong> polished, although there are <strong>of</strong>ten deepstriations as well, <strong>and</strong> its pr<strong>of</strong>ile is rounded; here abrasion is thema<strong>in</strong> erod<strong>in</strong>g force. The downstream side, on the other h<strong>and</strong>,especially if the rock is well jo<strong>in</strong>ted, is made rougher <strong>and</strong> moreirregular by the pluck<strong>in</strong>g action <strong>of</strong> the ice. The result<strong>in</strong>g formis known as a roche moutonnee, so called orig<strong>in</strong>ally because <strong>of</strong> thesimilarity <strong>of</strong> these residual hummocks to wigs made <strong>of</strong> sheepsk<strong>in</strong>which were once worn <strong>in</strong> France <strong>and</strong>, as so <strong>of</strong>ten happens, thename has stuck. These are common features <strong>in</strong> the Lakel<strong>and</strong>valleys, <strong>and</strong> are especially well marked <strong>in</strong> Borrowdale. They mayform small isolated rocks or quite large knolls.The overall effect <strong>of</strong> glaciation was not merely erosive, althoughthis aspect tends to dom<strong>in</strong>ate <strong>in</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>ous areas. The SolwayPla<strong>in</strong> to the north was thickly plastered with glacial drift by theoutflow<strong>in</strong>g glaciers, so that the ' solid ' rocks are rarely visible.And <strong>in</strong> the valleys much material was deposited, called generallyboulder-clay, a term applied to an unstratified mass with a matrix<strong>of</strong> clay <strong>and</strong> s<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g stones <strong>of</strong> all shapes <strong>and</strong> sizes.Sometimes the boulder-clay is laid <strong>in</strong> level sheets, <strong>in</strong> tough compactmasses, as on the floors <strong>of</strong> the Borrowdale <strong>and</strong> Langdalevalleys. It may occur as loose mounds or humps, as near thefoot <strong>of</strong> Rossett Gill, <strong>in</strong> Langstrath, <strong>and</strong> near the Black Sail YouthHostel <strong>in</strong> Ennerdale where there is a chaos <strong>of</strong> swell<strong>in</strong>g hillocks.
F. J. Mon\house 297And it may be arranged <strong>in</strong> the form <strong>of</strong> crescentic mora<strong>in</strong>es acrossthe mouth <strong>of</strong> a combe or near the foot <strong>of</strong> a valley. Two dist<strong>in</strong>ctmora<strong>in</strong>es have been identified <strong>in</strong> Borrowdale which are worthy <strong>of</strong>mention. One lies half a mile below Seatoller, near the confluence<strong>of</strong> Comb Gill <strong>and</strong> the Derwent. The other is at themouth <strong>of</strong> the Stonethwaite valley, curv<strong>in</strong>g from Borrowdalechurch towards Rosthwaite; a me<strong>and</strong>er <strong>of</strong> the Derwent has cutprom<strong>in</strong>ently <strong>in</strong>to the side <strong>of</strong> this mora<strong>in</strong>e. Term<strong>in</strong>al mora<strong>in</strong>eshave had an important effect <strong>in</strong> that they account <strong>in</strong> largemeasure for the presence <strong>of</strong> lakes, large <strong>and</strong> small, as will be seenlater.Ice can transport boulders <strong>of</strong> considerable size, which may beleft ' perched ' precariously, as <strong>in</strong> the case <strong>of</strong> the famous BowderStone <strong>in</strong> Borrowdale. And many rocks may be deposited as' erratics ' far from their solid orig<strong>in</strong>. Thus boulders <strong>of</strong> Siluriangrit can be found away to the south-east <strong>in</strong> the Craven district <strong>of</strong>Yorkshire, ly<strong>in</strong>g on surfaces <strong>of</strong> Carboniferous Limestone. ShapGranite boulders can be seen as far away as the Scarboroughneighbourhood, <strong>in</strong> L<strong>in</strong>colnshire <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> southern Cheshire, <strong>and</strong>masses <strong>of</strong> Eskdale Granite have been identified <strong>in</strong> the Fylde <strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong> the Wolverhampton district. All these afford valuable evidenceas to the movement <strong>and</strong> direction <strong>of</strong> the ice-sheets. Evidencethat the ice flowed radially outwards from the heart <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>is afforded by the discovery <strong>of</strong> granite boulders from Carrock <strong>Fell</strong><strong>in</strong> various parts <strong>of</strong> the Solway Pla<strong>in</strong> from the Eden valley rightround to St. Bees Head. Erratics, too, occur high on the ridgeswith<strong>in</strong> the Lake District itself. There are immense rectangularblocks <strong>of</strong> Borrowdale Volcanic rock on the Skiddaw Slate ridge<strong>of</strong> Dale Head — H<strong>in</strong>dscarth, <strong>and</strong> others at no less than 2,600feet on High Stile. There are numerous boulders <strong>of</strong> EnnerdaleGranophyre on the broad summit <strong>of</strong> Starl<strong>in</strong>g Dodd some three orfour miles north <strong>of</strong> the outcrop <strong>of</strong> the granophyre mass itself. Infact, short-distance erratics lie everywhere, particularly on thewell-jo<strong>in</strong>ted Borrowdale Volcanics, <strong>and</strong> help to add to the<strong>in</strong>herent ruggedness <strong>of</strong> the central part <strong>of</strong> the district.THE LAKESThe most characteristic feature <strong>of</strong> the Lake District is naturallythe lakes themselves. The sixteen or so major lakes lie on thefloors <strong>of</strong> some, though not all, <strong>of</strong> the glacially eroded valleys, <strong>and</strong>so partake <strong>of</strong> their pattern <strong>and</strong> shape; they are usually long <strong>and</strong>
298 THE LAKELAND LANDSCAPErelatively narrow, <strong>and</strong> radiate from the dra<strong>in</strong>age-axis <strong>of</strong> the dome.In part they owe their existence to glacial over-deepen<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> thevalleys <strong>in</strong> which they lie, <strong>in</strong> part to natural crescentic mora<strong>in</strong>edams. For example, there is a most strik<strong>in</strong>g term<strong>in</strong>al mora<strong>in</strong>e atthe southern end <strong>of</strong> W<strong>in</strong>dermere, partly cut through near NewbyBridge by the river Leven which dra<strong>in</strong>s southwards to MorecambeBay. The lakes vary enormously <strong>in</strong> depth. The deepest isWastwater where 258 feet has been sounded, yet its surface is just200 feet above sea-level; this clearly shows the effect <strong>of</strong> overdeepen<strong>in</strong>gbelow sea-level, although the greater part <strong>of</strong> its depthis accounted for by a glacial dam at the south-western end nearWoodhow. Rydal Water, on the other h<strong>and</strong>, is a shallow reedcoveredmere ly<strong>in</strong>g on the uneven floor <strong>of</strong> a broad through-valleyextend<strong>in</strong>g northward to Dunmail Raise.Lakes are, however, a very ephemeral feature <strong>of</strong> the l<strong>and</strong>scape.They may on the one h<strong>and</strong> have their outlets lowered by an outflow<strong>in</strong>griver cutt<strong>in</strong>g through the enclos<strong>in</strong>g mora<strong>in</strong>es, which areeasily eroded, or on the other h<strong>and</strong> be filled up by river-bornealluvium. The latter is especially the case where heavily ladenmounta<strong>in</strong> streams rapidly build out their deltas <strong>in</strong>to a lake.Bassenthwaite <strong>and</strong> Derwentwater are now divided by an alluvialflat four miles across, deposited jo<strong>in</strong>tly by the river Greta <strong>and</strong> theNewl<strong>and</strong>s Beck. This flat is now above the normal lake levelbecause <strong>of</strong> the lower<strong>in</strong>g by the outflow<strong>in</strong>g Derwent <strong>of</strong> the lip arthe northern end <strong>of</strong> Bassenthwaite, but <strong>in</strong> times <strong>of</strong> heavy ra<strong>in</strong> theflat may be flooded <strong>and</strong> the valley then returns to what must havebeen its former appearance. The Derwent is slowly but graduallypush<strong>in</strong>g out its delta <strong>in</strong>to the southern end <strong>of</strong> Derwentwater, <strong>and</strong>it has already filled <strong>in</strong> a former extension <strong>of</strong> the lake <strong>in</strong> Borrowdale.Most <strong>of</strong> the other lakes show similar <strong>in</strong>dications, <strong>and</strong> thehead <strong>of</strong> each is now a marshy ' bottom.' It seems, for example,from the evidence <strong>of</strong> ancient deltas <strong>and</strong> overflow channels that <strong>in</strong>immediate post-glacial times there was an Ennerdale Water manyhundreds <strong>of</strong> feet deeper <strong>and</strong> several miles longer than the presentlake. Even the deep Wastwater is much reduced from its formerextent; the Mosedale <strong>and</strong> L<strong>in</strong>gmell Becks are construct<strong>in</strong>g conspicuousdeltas <strong>in</strong>to its north-eastern end, <strong>and</strong> have built out abouta mile <strong>of</strong> flat l<strong>and</strong> covered with gravel <strong>and</strong> boulders, over whichthe streams constantly change their courses after each period <strong>of</strong>floods.In several valleys, this fill<strong>in</strong>g-up process has resulted <strong>in</strong> the
F. J. Mon\house 299complete disappearance <strong>of</strong> the former lakes. Kentmere, to thenorth <strong>of</strong> Kendal, formerly conta<strong>in</strong>ed two large lakes, one at about740 feet above sea-level situated to the north <strong>of</strong> Kentmere village,the other lay below the village at about 520 feet. The higherlake has been <strong>in</strong>filled with alluvium, the lower with vegetablematter, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>cidentally beds <strong>of</strong> diatomite formed from thesiliceous rema<strong>in</strong>s <strong>of</strong> countless microscopic plant organisms.Many tributary valleys show the same feature. Some <strong>of</strong> the valleysopen<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to the southern shores <strong>of</strong> Ullswater—Fusedale, Bannerdale,Boardale—probably once conta<strong>in</strong>ed lakes, now <strong>in</strong>filled.The same <strong>in</strong>fill<strong>in</strong>g process is tak<strong>in</strong>g place <strong>in</strong> many tarns. Atthe head <strong>of</strong> Tongue Gill, south <strong>of</strong> Grisedale Hause nearGrasmere, the floor <strong>of</strong> the combe is occupied by a level area <strong>of</strong>marsh. There is a wholly peat-filled former tarn ly<strong>in</strong>g at aheight <strong>of</strong> about 1,8<strong>50</strong> feet <strong>in</strong> the shallow depression between thetwo Angletarn Pikes, overlook<strong>in</strong>g Patterdale, <strong>and</strong> many moreexamples.POST-GLACIAL CHANGESThis gradual <strong>in</strong>fill<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> lakes is just one <strong>of</strong> the steady postglacialchanges <strong>in</strong> the Lakel<strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong>scape, for s<strong>in</strong>ce thepermanent snowfields <strong>and</strong> glaciers f<strong>in</strong>ally disappeared the forces<strong>of</strong> external sculpture have cont<strong>in</strong>ued their slow but <strong>in</strong>exorableoperations, add<strong>in</strong>g m<strong>in</strong>or yet <strong>of</strong>ten strik<strong>in</strong>g changes.The post-glacial dra<strong>in</strong>age system probably follows very closelythe pattern <strong>of</strong> the pre-glacial streams which have been alreadydiscussed, but it must differ <strong>in</strong> detail. While the dra<strong>in</strong>agesystem is, as we saw, superimposed irrespective <strong>of</strong> the presentsurface rocks, <strong>in</strong> detail <strong>of</strong> course many streams have adjustedthemselves locally to structural features by develop<strong>in</strong>g along theless resistant slates or volcanic ashes, or along the shatter belts <strong>of</strong>faults. The ma<strong>in</strong> rivers me<strong>and</strong>er along the flat floors <strong>of</strong> thevalleys, <strong>of</strong>ten divid<strong>in</strong>g to form braided streams, for example, theLiza <strong>in</strong> upper Ennerdale, the Derwent <strong>in</strong> Borrowdale <strong>and</strong> theGreat Langdale Beck, the last <strong>of</strong> which has caused such seriousflood<strong>in</strong>g that its bed is be<strong>in</strong>g regularised by straighten<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong>dredg<strong>in</strong>g. The tributary streams flow<strong>in</strong>g from the hang<strong>in</strong>gvalleys have cut their beds deep <strong>in</strong>to the mounta<strong>in</strong> slopes, <strong>and</strong>sweep down their eroded debris on to the valley floors, <strong>in</strong>to thelakes <strong>and</strong> f<strong>in</strong>ally <strong>in</strong>to the sea. One dramatic example <strong>of</strong> thisoccurred dur<strong>in</strong>g the August bank holiday week-end <strong>of</strong> 1938,
300 THE LAKELAND LANDSCAPEwhen n<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong>ches <strong>of</strong> ra<strong>in</strong> fell <strong>in</strong> thirty-six hours. L<strong>in</strong>gmell Gill,normally a clear stream flow<strong>in</strong>g down from the direction <strong>of</strong>Mickledore below Scafell, became a swollen torrent, colouredbrown from the gashed <strong>and</strong> scoured slopes, <strong>and</strong> with stonescrash<strong>in</strong>g along its bed. When it had subsided, it could be seenthat two fields at the head <strong>of</strong> the lake had been covered to a depth<strong>of</strong> a foot or more with a sheet <strong>of</strong> stones <strong>and</strong> small boulders, theload <strong>of</strong> the stream <strong>in</strong> spate. With<strong>in</strong> forty-eight hours or so thestream returned to normal, hav<strong>in</strong>g accomplished more erosionalactivity than <strong>in</strong> the previous ten years.The work <strong>of</strong> the weather, too, goes on relentlessly. In thesemounta<strong>in</strong> areas frost is, perhaps, the most effective agent. Whenwater fills the <strong>in</strong>terstices <strong>of</strong> a rock it may freeze at night, <strong>and</strong> asits volume thus <strong>in</strong>creases by some ten per cent it exerts greatpressure <strong>and</strong> so the rock tends to shatter. Slopes <strong>of</strong> angular fragments,known as scree, fall away below the rock buttresses. Frostactionis most potent where the rock is well jo<strong>in</strong>ted, allow<strong>in</strong>g theready percolation <strong>of</strong> surface water, as the writer once nearlyfound to his cost on the Chantry Buttress <strong>of</strong> the East Napes wherethe rock has a notoriously friable character. Below the Napesridges the reddish scree-slopes <strong>of</strong> Great Hell Gate stream downtowards upper Wasdale. The most strik<strong>in</strong>g screes <strong>in</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>are those which descend at an angle <strong>of</strong> between 35 <strong>and</strong> 40degrees for some 1,700 feet from the broken crags <strong>of</strong> Illgill Headto the south-eastern shores <strong>of</strong> Wastwater, cont<strong>in</strong>u<strong>in</strong>g their slope<strong>in</strong>to the lake.Numerous ve<strong>in</strong>s, dykes <strong>and</strong> faults which slash through therocks <strong>in</strong> regular directions, have helped to direct <strong>and</strong> concentratethe forces <strong>of</strong> denudation, <strong>and</strong> so produce such l<strong>in</strong>es <strong>of</strong> weaknessas gullies, chimneys <strong>and</strong> cracks, which are progressively enlargedby the weather <strong>and</strong> by runn<strong>in</strong>g water just because they are l<strong>in</strong>es<strong>of</strong> least resistance. Thus the shattered Napes gullies demarcatethe bold Needle, Eagle's Nest <strong>and</strong> Arrowhead Ridges, <strong>and</strong> MossGhyll, Steep Ghyll <strong>and</strong> Deep Ghyll split the Scafell crags <strong>in</strong>to<strong>in</strong>dividual buttresses. Nearby, on a larger scale, Mickledore isthe result <strong>of</strong> the partial removal <strong>of</strong> a dyke between the lavamasses <strong>of</strong> Pike's Crag <strong>and</strong> Scafell; the reddish scree-flows downeither side <strong>of</strong> the col show that the destruction cont<strong>in</strong>ues.Many <strong>of</strong> the summits <strong>and</strong> ridges show various weather<strong>in</strong>geffects. The tops <strong>of</strong> High Street, Helvellyn <strong>and</strong> the Grasmoorridges are extensively covered with horizontal sheets <strong>of</strong> crumbly
F. f. Mon\house 301gravelly material, the product <strong>of</strong> rock decay <strong>and</strong> dis<strong>in</strong>tegration<strong>in</strong> situ by frost action <strong>and</strong> by the work <strong>of</strong> melt-water from thew<strong>in</strong>ter snows. By contrast, other summits, such as that <strong>of</strong> GreatGable <strong>and</strong> especially those along the Scafell Pike—Bowfell ridge,are covered with blocks <strong>of</strong> rock <strong>of</strong> all sizes, some probablyerratics, but many are the result <strong>of</strong> frost action on the well-jo<strong>in</strong>tedvolcanic rocks. To these cont<strong>in</strong>uous areas <strong>of</strong> angular boulders issometimes given the expressive name <strong>of</strong> felsenmeer, or blockspreads.THE PRESENT-DAY LANDSCAPEWe have sought <strong>in</strong> some measure to analyse the ma<strong>in</strong> relieffeatures <strong>of</strong> the Lake District, <strong>and</strong> to show how these have cometo be what they are. In this compact area, little more than thirtymiles across, some seven hundred square miles <strong>in</strong> extent, lies aremarkable assemblage <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>s <strong>and</strong> valleys, smooth ridges<strong>and</strong> bold crags, t<strong>in</strong>y mounta<strong>in</strong> tarns <strong>and</strong> large deep lakes, deeplycut rav<strong>in</strong>es <strong>and</strong> strik<strong>in</strong>g waterfalls, immense scree-strewn hillsides<strong>and</strong> green meadows, sweep<strong>in</strong>g stretches <strong>of</strong> heather <strong>and</strong> brackencoveredvalley sides. From the centre <strong>of</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong> complex,<strong>in</strong> the neighbourhood <strong>of</strong> Great Gable <strong>and</strong> Scafell Pike, radiatethe ridges with their outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g peaks, separated <strong>in</strong>to groups ordistricts by the valleys open<strong>in</strong>g out <strong>in</strong>to the lowl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>of</strong> theSolway Pla<strong>in</strong>, the Eden Valley <strong>and</strong> the Morecambe Bay estuaries.The dale-heads around the centre <strong>of</strong> the massif are <strong>in</strong>terl<strong>in</strong>ked byhigh cols <strong>and</strong> passes which are the walker's joy. Each valley,each peak, has its own <strong>in</strong>dividuality, yet it is the sum <strong>of</strong> thesefeatures, a unity <strong>in</strong> diversity, which gives ' this large piece <strong>of</strong>precious chas<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> embossed work ' its <strong>in</strong>herent <strong>and</strong>, perhaps,■nrivalled character <strong>and</strong> charm.
302 THE LAKELAND LANDSCAPETHE GEOLOGICAL HISTORY OF THE LAKE DISTRICTEra <strong>of</strong> timeor Group <strong>of</strong>rocksA tentativePeriod <strong>of</strong> time I Time Scaleor System <strong>of</strong> (millionsocks <strong>of</strong> years)The presentrocks <strong>of</strong> thehake District<strong>and</strong> marg<strong>in</strong>sEventsQUATER-NARYHolocene orRecentPleistocene 1Alluvium, Post-glacial weather<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong>gravels, peat j river activityBoulder-clay I Quaternary GlaciationTERTIARYORCAINOZOICPliocene 15Miocene 35i Oligocene <strong>50</strong>Eocene 60_ /Pre-glacial denudation <strong>and</strong>radial dra<strong>in</strong>age systemAlp<strong>in</strong>e earth-movementUplift <strong>of</strong> elongated domeSECONDARYORMESOZOICCretaceousJurassicTriassic1201<strong>50</strong>190New RedS<strong>and</strong>stone(St. Bees,Penrith)Now vanished rocksdeposited? Chalk?S<strong>and</strong>stones laid down underarid conditions or <strong>in</strong> shallowlakes220DenudationPRIMARYORPALAEOZOICCarboniferousDevonianSilurianOrdovicianCambrianPRE-CAMBRIAN400Older than<strong>50</strong>0Coal MeasuresCarboniferousLimestoneSlates, flags,shalesConistonLimestoneBorrowdaleVolcanicSeriesSkiddawslatesArmorican fold<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to adomeDeposition <strong>in</strong> swampsDeposition <strong>in</strong> seaLong cont<strong>in</strong>ued denudationCaledonian fold<strong>in</strong>g to formE.N.E.-W.S.W. ridge acrossLake DistrictDeposition under shallowwater conditionsPeriod <strong>of</strong> fold<strong>in</strong>gVolcanic activityDeposition underwater conditionsIt will be appreciated that there is a number <strong>of</strong> diverse views concern<strong>in</strong>g thestructure <strong>of</strong> the Lake District. H.M. Geological Survey is shortly to beg<strong>in</strong> theproduction <strong>of</strong> a new One-<strong>in</strong>ch sheet <strong>and</strong> accompany<strong>in</strong>g Memoir, which willprobably solve many problems. The above is a cautious <strong>in</strong>terpretation <strong>of</strong>generally accepted ideas.
IN REMINISCENT VEINLordChorleyI have been a member <strong>of</strong> the Club for forty years. It is a longtime, <strong>and</strong> the Club has become a very different <strong>in</strong>stitution dur<strong>in</strong>gthis period: yet I am not one <strong>of</strong> the oldest members, not evenamong the first forty surviv<strong>in</strong>g. So it may seem a little cheekyif I allow a rapidly deteriorat<strong>in</strong>g memory to conjure up recollections<strong>of</strong> the earlier days which others are no doubt better qualifiedto write about. However, I am obedient to the Editor.I jo<strong>in</strong>ed the Club at the suggestion <strong>of</strong> Darw<strong>in</strong> Leighton, whosememory is still green for most <strong>of</strong> us, <strong>and</strong> who <strong>in</strong>troduced morenew members than anyone else. It was before the days <strong>of</strong> qualifications,or I should hardly have got <strong>in</strong>, my record consist<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>some three or four peaks <strong>and</strong> one rock-climb — Broad St<strong>and</strong>,which, I regret to say, I had climbed without realis<strong>in</strong>g that it wasa climb! My first peak was 111 Bell, but I was already a lankyschoolboy <strong>of</strong> fourteen before I did it, with a party <strong>of</strong> other schoolboys<strong>and</strong> some masters, <strong>in</strong> an autumn mist. Before middle agedescended upon me I used to go uphill rather quickly, <strong>and</strong> Ireached the top <strong>of</strong> 111 Bell well ahead <strong>of</strong> the rest <strong>of</strong> the party. Itwas awesome to be up there all by myself <strong>in</strong> the swirl<strong>in</strong>g mist,but it seemed to me to be a f<strong>in</strong>e adventure, <strong>and</strong> I had much thesame feel<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> delight tempered by nervousness which I haves<strong>in</strong>ce felt <strong>in</strong> much gr<strong>and</strong>er or more dangerous situations. I stillbelieve that there is no better way <strong>of</strong> atta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g to a feel<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>complete <strong>and</strong> utter solitude than to walk over a mounta<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> mist.My first meet was Whitsuntide, 1918, at Borrowdale, not evena pale imitation <strong>of</strong> the great Whitsuntide meets <strong>in</strong> the valleywhich were to come with the peace. Indeed, there was hardlyanyone stay<strong>in</strong>g at Thornythwaite—I can remember only Darw<strong>in</strong>Leighton. Ashley Abraham <strong>and</strong> his two sons came over fromKeswick on bicycles. I had recently taken to lightweightcamp<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong>, hav<strong>in</strong>g pitched my tent <strong>in</strong> the sheepfold at the foot<strong>of</strong> the Stake, had walked over from there.It was my first meet<strong>in</strong>g with Ashley <strong>and</strong> I enjoyed his breezy,exuberant, rather confident personality. He <strong>and</strong> Darw<strong>in</strong> swoppedyarns all the time. Darw<strong>in</strong> had the f<strong>in</strong>er sense <strong>of</strong> humour <strong>and</strong>brought to his stories that mellow charm which so many <strong>of</strong> uscan remember, <strong>and</strong> which reta<strong>in</strong>ed an almost youthful spontaniety:he was one <strong>of</strong> the few characters I have known <strong>in</strong> whomthe quality <strong>of</strong> spontaniety <strong>and</strong> mellowness could exist together.F
304 IN REMINISCENT VEINAshley had a panache, almost a swagger. He <strong>and</strong> his brotherGeorge, who is fortunately still with us, had successfully exploitedtheir Lakel<strong>and</strong> cragsmanship <strong>in</strong> the High Alps <strong>and</strong> were figures<strong>in</strong> their own right <strong>in</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g world. They werealso great men <strong>in</strong> the doma<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong> photography. In thecom<strong>in</strong>g years their credentials were to be attacked <strong>and</strong> rivals wereto spr<strong>in</strong>g up. But at that time they wore their dist<strong>in</strong>ction witha sort <strong>of</strong> debonair self-confidence which I th<strong>in</strong>k they had everyright to enjoy, for they were personalities to be reckoned with,<strong>and</strong> their record rema<strong>in</strong>s an enviable one.Ashley had shown particular <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> the project forfound<strong>in</strong>g a Lakel<strong>and</strong> climb<strong>in</strong>g club <strong>and</strong>, <strong>of</strong> course, became ourfirst President. Not that George was <strong>in</strong> any sense antipathetic—he was Vice-President, 1908-10 — but he had more irons <strong>in</strong> thefire, <strong>and</strong> was less able to be active <strong>in</strong> Club work. He had greaterfacility with his pen than Ashley, <strong>and</strong> when I was Editor <strong>of</strong> theJournal gave me a good deal <strong>of</strong> help from time to time, as <strong>in</strong>deeddid his brother.As with <strong>1956</strong> (so far!), the early summer <strong>of</strong> 1918 providedthe only good weather <strong>in</strong> a very bad year, <strong>and</strong> Whitsuntide wasparticularly hot <strong>and</strong> cloudless. It was lunchtime when the partyassembled at Thornythwaite <strong>and</strong> the blaz<strong>in</strong>g sun did notencourage a sweaty ascent to the higher fells. After it had beendiscovered that the amount <strong>of</strong> energy available was not large,Ashley said that the obvious place for us was the cave climb <strong>in</strong>the Doves' Nest <strong>in</strong> Combe Ghyll, which was hardly a mile away.So, with tongues hang<strong>in</strong>g out, we made our way to it <strong>and</strong> spentan enjoyable afternoon <strong>in</strong> the cool recesses <strong>of</strong> the Doves' Nest.The climb<strong>in</strong>g is, <strong>of</strong> course, quite easy but it is rather dark <strong>and</strong>, asfar as I can remember, we had only one c<strong>and</strong>le for a largishparty: also we were short <strong>of</strong> rope. The result was that we spentmost <strong>of</strong> the afternoon on this <strong>in</strong>considerable climb. The only<strong>in</strong>cident, <strong>and</strong> it was one which materially contributed to the timetaken up over the climb, was Ashley's gett<strong>in</strong>g stuck <strong>in</strong> thew<strong>in</strong>dow near the top. Naturally heavily built, he had developeda middle age spread dur<strong>in</strong>g the war years, but hav<strong>in</strong>g done theclimb more than once when young he refused to admit that hewas too tight a fit for the w<strong>in</strong>dow, <strong>and</strong> struggled up until he gotbadly jammed, <strong>and</strong> we had quite a job to extricate him. Howeverhe eventually emerged rosy <strong>and</strong> benignant <strong>and</strong> we had an enjoyablesiesta <strong>in</strong> the hot sunsh<strong>in</strong>e on the heather <strong>and</strong> bilberry clad
Lord Chorley 305ledges above the climb. It was the only time I tied on withAshley, <strong>and</strong> I look back on the little expedition with much morepleasure than its elementary quality would seem to justify.Although Grayson (who was a Kendalian work<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>Barrow) had gone to the States, Craig was fatally ill, <strong>and</strong>Scantlebury had dropped out, the Barrovians were still very prom<strong>in</strong>ent<strong>in</strong> the Club <strong>in</strong> those days. It had been Grayson whoprovided the connect<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>in</strong>k with Kendal, where there wasanother little knot <strong>of</strong> enthusiastic cragsmen <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Darw<strong>in</strong>Leigh ton, C. H. Oliverson, Henry Lyon, Andrew Thompson<strong>and</strong> W. T. Palmer. The jo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g up <strong>of</strong> the two groups fromBarrow-Ulverston <strong>and</strong> Kendal provided the nucleus round whichthe Club developed.Of those who contributed the push <strong>and</strong> drive required to get itlaunched, my impression is that E. H. P. Scantlebury was themov<strong>in</strong>g force. Energetic, exceptionally versatile <strong>and</strong> ratherrestless, he was a man fertile <strong>in</strong> ideas, <strong>and</strong> had the ambition tomake the Club someth<strong>in</strong>g more than a climb<strong>in</strong>g fraternity <strong>and</strong>its Journal a general Lakel<strong>and</strong> magaz<strong>in</strong>e. He was, however,unable to persuade his fellows on the Committee to assent tothese ideas, <strong>and</strong> on their rejection rel<strong>in</strong>quished participation<strong>in</strong> the Club's affairs, though he was elected a Vice-President(1910-12). After the war it seemed that he might becomeactive once more, as I remember the pleasure with which Darw<strong>in</strong>Leighton welcomed the part which he took <strong>in</strong> the Scafell PikePeace celebrations: my impression is that the idea <strong>of</strong> us<strong>in</strong>g DoverPatrol flares was his. His article <strong>in</strong> the 1919 Journal on this<strong>in</strong>spir<strong>in</strong>g event still reads freshly, <strong>and</strong> I recall, as if it wereyesterday, his exuberance <strong>and</strong> good humour dur<strong>in</strong>g that very coldnight which the majority <strong>of</strong> the Peace Celebrants spent on thetop <strong>of</strong> the fell. But though he occasionally put <strong>in</strong> an appearanceat a d<strong>in</strong>ner meet he evidently decided to rema<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>active.Dur<strong>in</strong>g the war years W. T. Palmer settled <strong>in</strong> Liverpool <strong>and</strong>became engaged <strong>in</strong> whole-time journalistic work. He found itwas more <strong>and</strong> more difficult to carry out his editorial work onour Journal, though Mrs. Palmer gave him a good deal <strong>of</strong> help,<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>deed appeared as jo<strong>in</strong>t editor <strong>of</strong> the 1917 number. Afterits <strong>publication</strong> he resigned, <strong>and</strong> Darw<strong>in</strong> Leighton, who had theidea that anyone who had been to a university should be able toedit a journal, jockeyed me <strong>in</strong>to the job. The Committee, hav<strong>in</strong>gno other <strong>of</strong>fers, duly <strong>in</strong>stalled me, <strong>and</strong> I took up what was to
306 IN REMINISCENT VEINprove practically a ten year's task. I had to learn the work asI went along <strong>and</strong> do not look back on my earlier numbers withany sort <strong>of</strong> pride. Philip M<strong>in</strong>or was then President. Althoughprimarily a Rucksack Club man, he brought both enthusiasm <strong>and</strong>judgment to the work <strong>of</strong> the Club dur<strong>in</strong>g the difficult transitionperiod from war to peace. As he was a lawyer as well as amounta<strong>in</strong>eer we had much <strong>in</strong> common, <strong>and</strong> his support was agreat help to me.At that period <strong>and</strong> for some years afterwards s<strong>in</strong>g-songs werea notable feature <strong>in</strong> the life <strong>of</strong> the Club. In these M<strong>in</strong>or's outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>grival was Darw<strong>in</strong> Leighton—a little later, <strong>of</strong> course, wehad John Hirst, Lawson Cook, George Basterfield <strong>and</strong> others.Not even Lawson Cook could lead as wild an ' Ilkla Moor ' asM<strong>in</strong>or, for the song would be supplemented by a violent dance<strong>in</strong> which he armed himself with ice-axes, fire-irons or anyth<strong>in</strong>gelse that was h<strong>and</strong>y, becom<strong>in</strong>g to all appearances an <strong>in</strong>ebriateddervish!The New <strong>Year</strong> meet at Buttermere, 1918-19—my first realmeet—was the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> a long <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> happy <strong>and</strong> successfulevents which term<strong>in</strong>ated only with the regrettable departure <strong>of</strong>Miss Grace Edmundson from the Buttermere Hotel after the1939-45 war. It was the first meet to be held after theArmistice, <strong>and</strong> there was an atmosphere <strong>of</strong> celebration about it:<strong>in</strong>deed it got rather riotous at times <strong>and</strong> the staider memberswondered whether they were on their heads or their heels. Onthis occasion I made my first New <strong>Year</strong>'s day ascent <strong>of</strong> the Pillar<strong>Rock</strong>, a <strong>series</strong> which went on without a break for twenty-oneyears, although one year I failed to get up.This was <strong>in</strong> 1920, the occasion <strong>of</strong> my first climb with HowardSomervell. It was a perfect w<strong>in</strong>ter's day without a cloud <strong>in</strong> thesky, <strong>and</strong> with a spr<strong>in</strong>kl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> snow on the ground. Ratherdar<strong>in</strong>gly we decided to have a go at the North Climb <strong>and</strong> wemade reasonably fast progress under Howard's leadership, thoughthe rock was icy cold, until we reached the Split Blocks. None <strong>of</strong>us had ever done the climb before, <strong>and</strong> we were quite unfamiliarwith the route across Savage Gully which looked peculiarly un<strong>in</strong>vit<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong> its mantle <strong>of</strong> snow. We determ<strong>in</strong>ed therefore to trythe Nose direct.While we were munch<strong>in</strong>g our s<strong>and</strong>wiches on the blocks weheard the yelp<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> hounds, <strong>and</strong> look<strong>in</strong>g towards Rob<strong>in</strong>son'sCairn we saw a fox lollop<strong>in</strong>g up the snowy fellside with the
Lord Chorley 307hounds stream<strong>in</strong>g after him some three or four hundred yardsbeh<strong>in</strong>d. We were certa<strong>in</strong>ly <strong>in</strong> the dress circle for this chasewhich moved on towards the top <strong>of</strong> Pillar Mounta<strong>in</strong>, the houndsga<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g little, if anyth<strong>in</strong>g, on the stalwart fox who, we wererather glad to hear afterwards, had f<strong>in</strong>ally escaped them.After this spectacular <strong>in</strong>termission we returned to work <strong>and</strong>Howard made several attempts on the Nose. The high h<strong>and</strong>holdwas, however, slippery <strong>and</strong> very cold, <strong>and</strong> no sufficient gripcould be got on it to give the necessary pull up. I admired boththe stam<strong>in</strong>a <strong>and</strong> the determ<strong>in</strong>ation which Howard displayed, butit was to no purpose. Once while he was rest<strong>in</strong>g I ventured outon to the Nose myself, but one short caress <strong>of</strong> that high h<strong>and</strong>holdwas enough to remove all sensation from my f<strong>in</strong>gers, <strong>and</strong> Ireturned precipitately <strong>in</strong>to the corner.We persisted <strong>in</strong> the attempts to surmount the Nose until theshades <strong>of</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> the <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>g cold warned us to be <strong>of</strong>f.Chilled to the bone, I found the descent dist<strong>in</strong>ctly difficult, <strong>and</strong>it was a great comfort to have Howard's confident leadership aslast man. It was dark before we reached the valley <strong>and</strong> on theway back we jo<strong>in</strong>ed up with the party under Godfrey Solly whichhad got up the <strong>Rock</strong> by one <strong>of</strong> the shorter routes.Solly had by this time succeeded M<strong>in</strong>or as President <strong>and</strong> formany years afterwards he was a faithful attender at the New<strong>Year</strong> meets. On this occasion we called at Gatesgarth to warmourselves with a cup <strong>of</strong> tea <strong>in</strong> the hospitable kitchen. Old Nelson,the farmer, was there, <strong>and</strong> it turned out that on Solly's first visitto the valley, which appeared to have taken place <strong>in</strong> the seventies,the then young Nelson had guided him over Scarf Gap <strong>and</strong> upthe Black Sail—<strong>in</strong> those days it was still quite common to take aguide for the higher Lakel<strong>and</strong> passes. Solly recollected Nelsonas a mere boy but he must have been well <strong>in</strong>to the twenties, foron the farmer remark<strong>in</strong>g that he was not so young as hisquestioner evidently supposed, Solly rather rashly challengedhim. He was somewhat taken aback to f<strong>in</strong>d that the Lakel<strong>and</strong>ercould give him someth<strong>in</strong>g like ten years—with high domed foreheadthe mounta<strong>in</strong>eer looked more venerable than his age, whileNelson with all his hair <strong>in</strong>tact looked <strong>in</strong> the dim light <strong>of</strong> thekitchen hardly out <strong>of</strong> the fifties.I have many delightful recollections <strong>of</strong> Solly who became agreat friend <strong>and</strong> whose copy <strong>of</strong> the orig<strong>in</strong>al edition <strong>of</strong> A. W.Moore's The Alps <strong>in</strong> 1864, a wedd<strong>in</strong>g gift, I still cherish. One
308 IN REMINISCENT VEIN<strong>of</strong> them I will take to br<strong>in</strong>g these rambl<strong>in</strong>g rem<strong>in</strong>iscences to anend. Hav<strong>in</strong>g taken Marjorie Ca<strong>in</strong>, then quite a child, on hisrope for an easy climb on Dow Crag he said to her solemnly,' Now you will be able to tell your children that you climbed onthe rope <strong>of</strong> a man who had himself climbed on the rope <strong>of</strong>Melchior Anderegg, the greatest <strong>of</strong> all the guides.'
MARCH INWESTMORLAND(Sonnet after Charles d'Orleans, 1391-1465)In fields far south the lambs do skip,But W<strong>in</strong>ter has us <strong>in</strong> his grip;The <strong>Fell</strong>s are fr<strong>in</strong>ged with wreaths <strong>of</strong> sleet,On ro<strong>of</strong>s <strong>and</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dows ra<strong>in</strong> does beat.How cold <strong>and</strong> drear the w<strong>in</strong>d can blow,And W<strong>in</strong>ter still will not let goHis cloak <strong>of</strong> coldness, storm, <strong>and</strong> snow.While yet there is no h<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> Spr<strong>in</strong>g,Joy <strong>in</strong> their jargon birds do s<strong>in</strong>g;No green is on the hawthorn hedge,Though jauntily along its edgeThe t<strong>in</strong>y wren tip tilted trips.Yet W<strong>in</strong>ter still will not let goHis cloak <strong>of</strong> coldness, storm, <strong>and</strong> snow.MARY ROSE FITZGIBBON.
SOME LAKELANDTREESAtholMurrayWhat a wonderful district is this Lakel<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> ours! When wereturn to other places which we used to know <strong>and</strong> love we so<strong>of</strong>ten f<strong>in</strong>d that they do not come up to the pictures <strong>of</strong> them whichwe had been treasur<strong>in</strong>g up <strong>in</strong> our m<strong>in</strong>ds. But that sort <strong>of</strong>disappo<strong>in</strong>tment never happens <strong>in</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>. Everyth<strong>in</strong>g is betterthan we had remembered — the mounta<strong>in</strong>s look higher, thecolours are more beautiful, the variety is even greater than wehad been expect<strong>in</strong>g. We all have our specially loved spots <strong>and</strong>each f<strong>in</strong>ds someth<strong>in</strong>g that appeals most strongly to his <strong>in</strong>dividualtaste. Most <strong>of</strong> our members probably th<strong>in</strong>k first <strong>of</strong> some favouritecrag or some wonderful walk ' on the tops,' whilst ord<strong>in</strong>aryvisitors may prefer the lakes, <strong>and</strong> others choose the tarns or thebecks or the farms. All <strong>of</strong> these features are essential components<strong>of</strong> the Lakel<strong>and</strong> scene, but it would be far from complete if it didnot <strong>in</strong>clude our trees.I am th<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g now not so much <strong>of</strong> outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g groups <strong>of</strong>trees, such as the Borrowdale birches or the Scots p<strong>in</strong>es <strong>of</strong> Buttermere,for they cannot fail to appeal to all who see them. We canadmire a large group <strong>of</strong> people such as our fellow-members <strong>of</strong> the<strong>Fell</strong> & <strong>Rock</strong>, but we cannot hope to know each one <strong>of</strong> them veryclosely. So it is with trees—we admire them <strong>in</strong> large numbers,but it is with the <strong>in</strong>dividuals that we become friends. My specialtrees are the more isolated ones with def<strong>in</strong>ite personalities <strong>of</strong> theirown, the k<strong>in</strong>d that <strong>of</strong>ten grow <strong>in</strong> almost impossible places butstruggle cheerfully on. I almost f<strong>in</strong>d myself ask<strong>in</strong>g them if theyhave ' w<strong>in</strong>tered well,' or congratulat<strong>in</strong>g them on their smart newcoats <strong>of</strong> spr<strong>in</strong>g or autumn colours, or perhaps tell<strong>in</strong>g them howattractive they look now that their leaves have fallen. They, <strong>in</strong>turn, seem to be ask<strong>in</strong>g me if I really want to take their photographsaga<strong>in</strong>. But then they can hardly be expected to know thatthe success <strong>of</strong> their portraits will largely depend on gett<strong>in</strong>g thebest possible background, <strong>and</strong> that the keen photographer isalways hop<strong>in</strong>g to improve even on his best pictures.I have so many friends amongst these trees that I cannotpossibly hope to show you as many <strong>of</strong> them as I would like, soI shall have to content myself with four illustrations <strong>and</strong> hope thatthe Editor will be able to f<strong>in</strong>d room for even this small number.The first I have called ' The Undaunted Tree ' <strong>and</strong> it was taken<strong>in</strong> Rossett Gill look<strong>in</strong>g back towards Pike o' Stickle. It is a tree
Athol Murray 311which I have photographed many times because I like its shape<strong>and</strong> the presumptuous way <strong>in</strong> which it seems to have taken uponitself to guard over the Langdales. I am still hop<strong>in</strong>g for a bettersky for the background as the one <strong>in</strong> the illustration is a littletoo broken. The clouds were the forerunners <strong>of</strong> a very violent<strong>and</strong> pa<strong>in</strong>ful hailstorm which smote me a few m<strong>in</strong>utes later.Another type <strong>of</strong> tree which always attracts me is the large one—usually a sycamore—that so <strong>of</strong>ten mounts guard over our Lakel<strong>and</strong>farms. The tree I have chosen to illustrate this is the onethat used to grow beside Blea Tarn House. This must be one<strong>of</strong> the most frequently photographed build<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> the district,but I have never before seen a photograph which makes use <strong>of</strong>this tree, <strong>and</strong> I hope that you will agree that even though onlyhalf the tree is shown it is quite enough to ' make ' the picture.When the tree was cut down a few years ago it seemed an act <strong>of</strong>v<strong>and</strong>alism until it was shown that the whole trunk was hollow,<strong>and</strong> it would certa<strong>in</strong>ly not have been safe to leave it grow<strong>in</strong>g sonear the farm. But Blea Tarn House has never seemed quite thesame without it, for now it looks rather forlorn <strong>and</strong> exposed, <strong>and</strong>evidently misses its protect<strong>in</strong>g tree just as much as I do.The next tree I have chosen is one that grows beside Derwentwater<strong>and</strong> forms a very effective foreground to the fells on theother side <strong>of</strong> the lake. I first saw this tree dur<strong>in</strong>g the summer<strong>and</strong> I decided that I would try to make a <strong>series</strong> <strong>of</strong> pictures <strong>of</strong> itunder differ<strong>in</strong>g conditions. So my next visit to it was on a lovelyspr<strong>in</strong>g even<strong>in</strong>g when I obta<strong>in</strong>ed the picture <strong>in</strong>cluded here, <strong>and</strong> Ihave another quite different one taken dur<strong>in</strong>g the w<strong>in</strong>ter whenthere was thick snow on Causey Pike <strong>and</strong> the other fells.The last tree pictured is a dead one! It used to st<strong>and</strong> at thefoot <strong>of</strong> L<strong>in</strong>gmell not far from Brackenclose, <strong>and</strong> it had such afasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g skeleton that it was a great disappo<strong>in</strong>tment on a latervisit when I found that it had collapsed completely. I call it' Signpost to the <strong>Fell</strong>s ' <strong>and</strong> I cannot help feel<strong>in</strong>g how much morebeautiful it is than the modern horrors we now f<strong>in</strong>d on so many<strong>of</strong> the fells. I admit that the latter are more useful to one whois lost, but who would exchange beauty for mere utility ?These, then, are the four trees which I have picked out frommany others. I wish I could <strong>in</strong>troduce you to more, but perhapsyou already have favourites <strong>of</strong> your own. If not, go <strong>of</strong>f <strong>and</strong> makesome friends quickly. You will f<strong>in</strong>d it well worth while.
FROM WHEELS TOWHEELSF. Lawson Coo\There is a story told <strong>of</strong> a schoolmaster who was <strong>in</strong> HolyOrders but only occasionally <strong>of</strong>ficiated as such. One Saturdayeven<strong>in</strong>g, at the end <strong>of</strong> a strenuous week <strong>of</strong> correct<strong>in</strong>g exam<strong>in</strong>ationpapers, he received an urgent request to carry out morn<strong>in</strong>g dutieson the follow<strong>in</strong>g day for a neighbour<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>cumbent who hadbeen suddenly taken ill. As no sermon was <strong>in</strong>volved, but onlyMat<strong>in</strong>s, followed by the Communion Service, he consented. Allwent satisfactorily until after the response to the last <strong>of</strong> the TenComm<strong>and</strong>ments, when the congregation was startled to hear thepronouncement: ' <strong>and</strong> please remember that only five <strong>of</strong> theseneed be attempted.'There the story ends, but when I first heard it the thoughtoccurred as to what my own choice might have been if <strong>of</strong>feredsuch a dispensation. All I can be reasonably certa<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> is thatI should probably have regarded the Tenth Comm<strong>and</strong>mentitself as one <strong>of</strong> the easiest to ' attempt,' but if covetousness hasnever presented any serious temptation to me, there have beenmoments when I have felt a certa<strong>in</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> envy for thosecompanions <strong>of</strong> the hills whose mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g experiences beganat so much earlier an age than did my own, for I was well on <strong>in</strong>my thirties before mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g atta<strong>in</strong>ed the predom<strong>in</strong>ance <strong>in</strong>my outdoor pursuits it has ever s<strong>in</strong>ce occupied.Very largely the explanation <strong>of</strong> such a ' late start' lies <strong>in</strong> mypersonal background. I was the youngest <strong>of</strong> a large family, <strong>and</strong>all the four elder brothers whom I knew were keen cyclists, one,<strong>in</strong>deed, be<strong>in</strong>g a founder-member <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the premier EnglishBicycle Clubs, <strong>and</strong> another for many years its permanentPresident. It was natural, therefore, that my earliest ' mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g' was such as could be achieved on the two wheels <strong>of</strong> abicycle, just as I now feel the urge to conf<strong>in</strong>e my worship <strong>of</strong> thehills to such rites as can be performed with the aid <strong>of</strong> the fourwheels <strong>of</strong> a car.For much the same reason <strong>and</strong> because North Wales was somuch more easily <strong>and</strong> pleasantly approached by cycle from myhome than any <strong>of</strong> the English upl<strong>and</strong> country, my mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g' education ' began <strong>in</strong> Wales. At first it was as an escapefrom metalled roads to the many pleasant grass-grown tracks thatcross the Clwydian range <strong>and</strong> the Berwyns, the bicycle <strong>of</strong>tenbecom<strong>in</strong>g, literally, a ' push-bike.' Later on, the urge to explore
F. Lawson Coo\ 313ridges <strong>and</strong> summits rather than valleys <strong>and</strong> passes asserted an<strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>gly <strong>in</strong>sistent pressure, until the time came when Iregarded cycl<strong>in</strong>g as a method <strong>of</strong> transport only.Prior to the outbreak <strong>of</strong> World War I, I had visited the LakeDistrict on two occasions only. The first, it must be admitted,was on a Whit Monday excursion by rail to W<strong>in</strong>dermere for aday's boat<strong>in</strong>g on the lake. That was <strong>in</strong> 1895. The secondoccasion was for a purely cycl<strong>in</strong>g holiday based on Ambleside <strong>in</strong>the early years <strong>of</strong> the present century. It is possible, therefore,that I might have developed <strong>in</strong>to, <strong>and</strong> rema<strong>in</strong>ed, a devotee <strong>of</strong> the' Welsh Mount-u-a<strong>in</strong>s ' had it not been for the persuasive<strong>in</strong>fluence <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the greatest friends I have ever had, one whowas called upon to make the supreme sacrifice <strong>in</strong> March, 1918.He was at school with me, we served our pr<strong>of</strong>essional articles <strong>in</strong>the same <strong>of</strong>fice, he was best-man at my wedd<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> we were <strong>in</strong>partnership together when the War broke out. He had longbeen try<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>in</strong>duce me to give up what he regarded as myobsession with Wales. As a f<strong>in</strong>al argument, when he jo<strong>in</strong>ed up<strong>in</strong> September, 1914, he presented me with his rucksack, a list <strong>of</strong>addresses at which he had stayed <strong>in</strong> the Lake District, <strong>and</strong> a copy<strong>of</strong> Baddeley.Thus it came about that at the earliest convenient opportunity<strong>in</strong> 1915 I set <strong>of</strong>f one Friday by tra<strong>in</strong> to Lancaster, complete witha t<strong>and</strong>em bicycle <strong>and</strong> a youth whom I had <strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong> the proposedproceed<strong>in</strong>gs to help <strong>in</strong> its propulsion, <strong>and</strong> also with theguide <strong>and</strong> the rucksack, the latter hold<strong>in</strong>g the bare requirements<strong>of</strong> the two <strong>of</strong> us, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>tended to be carried by each <strong>in</strong> turn. FromLancaster we cycled to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, thenpresided over by Mr. Holmes, <strong>and</strong> next morn<strong>in</strong>g, leav<strong>in</strong>g ourtransport beh<strong>in</strong>d, set out for Wasdale Head by way <strong>of</strong> Bowfell(by Hell Gill <strong>and</strong> Three Tarns), Esk Pike, Great End, ScafellPike <strong>and</strong> Scafell (by Lord's Rake) f<strong>in</strong>ish<strong>in</strong>g by the old CorpseRoad past the site <strong>of</strong> Brackenclose. At Wasdale Head I madeuse <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the addresses on my list: Mrs. Wilson, ' Middle RowTemperance Hotel,' <strong>and</strong> thus began a friendship that stillendures, enriched by the memory <strong>of</strong> many experiences <strong>of</strong> hergracious hospitality both there <strong>and</strong> later at Glenco<strong>in</strong>. On theSunday, from the top <strong>of</strong> Black Sail, we traversed Kirkfell <strong>and</strong>Great Gable to Sty Head <strong>and</strong> then down Borrowdale as far as theBorrowdale Hotel, <strong>and</strong> next day, start<strong>in</strong>g out beh<strong>in</strong>d the Hotel,we made our way across to the Watendlath road, thence to the
314 FROM WHEELS TO WHEELShamlet itself <strong>and</strong> by the well-worn track to Rosthwaite, or ratherto the pleasant' back road ' for Greenup Edge, with lunch by theGill. From the Edge our road was over High White Stones toSergeant Man <strong>and</strong> Stickle Tarn to reach our start<strong>in</strong>g place, readyfor our cycle <strong>and</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> journey <strong>in</strong> reverse the follow<strong>in</strong>g day.Apart from slight showers on the Sunday, we had splendidweather until the Monday afternoon, but as we approachedGreenup Edge it was evident that thunder was about, <strong>and</strong> on thetop <strong>of</strong> Sergeant Man there was no doubt that we were <strong>in</strong> for awett<strong>in</strong>g, which duly <strong>and</strong> properly soaked us long before, <strong>in</strong> thereduced visibility, we more or less walked <strong>in</strong>to Stickle Tarn.Here we missed the tracks down Mill Gill, by leav<strong>in</strong>g the Tarnon our left <strong>and</strong> strik<strong>in</strong>g right too soon. The result was a verysteep descent to the Dungeon Ghyll stream just below the fall, bya route which I have never been able to identify s<strong>in</strong>ce, except forthe po<strong>in</strong>t at which we scrambled down to cross the stream exactlyopposite the old ladder which used to afford access to the foot <strong>of</strong>the fall.I have devoted some space to the account <strong>of</strong> this holidaybecause it formed a real turn<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>in</strong> my life. I came backan enthusiast for the Lake Country, <strong>and</strong> the grip it took <strong>of</strong> myimag<strong>in</strong>ation has never lost its power. Often as I have returnedto my old Welsh haunts, <strong>and</strong> much as I have extended my knowledge<strong>of</strong> the Cambrian hills, both as walker <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> later years asrock-climber, <strong>in</strong> the years s<strong>in</strong>ce then, Lakel<strong>and</strong> laid claim to adevotion which I could not deny. Perhaps <strong>in</strong> part the reason isthat, as an Englishman <strong>and</strong> Lancashire born, I can feel moreeasily at one with the English hills <strong>of</strong> the north, <strong>and</strong> at homewith the people who have been bred <strong>and</strong> live their lives amongthem.Ten years or so later I was to be <strong>in</strong>troduced to the glories <strong>of</strong>Scotl<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> the Cool<strong>in</strong>s at that, but much as I love the Scottishmounta<strong>in</strong>s <strong>and</strong> glens, they have not quite the same appeal <strong>of</strong>' home,' <strong>and</strong> (if John Hirst will forgive me) ' now <strong>in</strong> mydecl<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g years, I class all Munros as severes, they cost me blood<strong>and</strong> sweat <strong>and</strong> tears,' <strong>and</strong> I f<strong>in</strong>d just as much ' fun ' without anyundue risk <strong>of</strong> be<strong>in</strong>g ' foolish ' on the lower heights <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> thesmaller scale <strong>of</strong> our English highl<strong>and</strong>s.To the Lakes, then, from 1915 onwards, I returned as <strong>of</strong>ten asI could, but for the first five or six years, especially dur<strong>in</strong>g theWar period, my visits were usually brief <strong>and</strong> almost all made
F. Lawson Coo\ 315alone. There was, however, one memorable holiday <strong>in</strong> 1917when I <strong>in</strong>duced my wife, for the first time, to come with me, <strong>and</strong>as Tom was then under the age <strong>of</strong> six when we left home, hebecame the tertium quid. From W<strong>in</strong>dermere Station, we tookthe public conveyance (an open charabanc if I remember rightly)as far as Waterhead, whence we set <strong>of</strong>f to walk to DungeonGhyll, each complete with a rucksack conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g such effects ascould not conveniendy be sent by post to Wasdale. As luckwould have it, we met Mr. Holmes <strong>in</strong> his trap near Clappersgatedriv<strong>in</strong>g a depart<strong>in</strong>g visitor to rail head, <strong>and</strong> he cheered us bysay<strong>in</strong>g he would pick us up on the way back. Needless to saywe did not hurry our steps, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> due course we got our lift.The follow<strong>in</strong>g day we set <strong>of</strong>f for Wasdale, where we hadbooked for a week with Mrs. Wilson. Half way up Rossett Gillthe ra<strong>in</strong> began; we were too wet to stop for lunch, but only longenough to get our s<strong>and</strong>wiches out to be eaten as we plodded on,<strong>and</strong> it was a weary <strong>and</strong> sodden trio who arrived at Middle Rowabout 2 p.m. Tom was at once hurried <strong>in</strong>to one <strong>of</strong> Mrs. Wilson'soval z<strong>in</strong>c wash<strong>in</strong>g receptacles for a hot bath — there were noref<strong>in</strong>ements at Middle Row <strong>in</strong> those days — <strong>and</strong> was none theworse for his first experience <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong> weather, but ratherupset at f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g one <strong>of</strong> his favourite Bourbon biscuits reduced toa sticky mess <strong>in</strong> his sh<strong>in</strong>y black mack<strong>in</strong>tosh pocket. Except forthis open<strong>in</strong>g experience, the holiday was a great success. Onalternate days Tom was out on the hills with us, <strong>and</strong> managedScafell Pike <strong>and</strong> Great Gable as two <strong>of</strong> his efforts, the latter onhis sixth birthday. On the way back we broke our journey twice,the first night at the Royal Oak at Rosthwaite, reached all on footover Sty Head, the second at Nab Cottage, Rydal, aga<strong>in</strong> on footover Greenup Edge.Of my own ' solo ' visits, which were numerous at this time, <strong>in</strong>fact at every possible opportunity, I will only refer to one that wasmore protracted than most, but st<strong>and</strong>s out chiefly <strong>in</strong> my memoryfor its hav<strong>in</strong>g brought me <strong>in</strong>to contact with two mounta<strong>in</strong>eers <strong>of</strong>considerable dist<strong>in</strong>ction. I was on an eight day tour <strong>of</strong> about100 miles <strong>in</strong> all <strong>in</strong> the August <strong>of</strong> 1916, <strong>and</strong> one <strong>of</strong> my stopp<strong>in</strong>gpo<strong>in</strong>ts was the Woolpack <strong>in</strong> Eskdale, then <strong>in</strong> charge <strong>of</strong> Mr. <strong>and</strong>Mrs. Armstrong, senior. At d<strong>in</strong>ner I was put to sit at an ovaltable at which some four or five people were already seated,<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g a middle-aged gentleman who was evidently regardedby his companions with considerable respect. Dur<strong>in</strong>g the meal
316 FROM WHEELS TO WHEELShe entered <strong>in</strong>to conversation with me <strong>and</strong>, on my happen<strong>in</strong>g tomention that I lived <strong>in</strong> Birkenhead, he astonished me by recall<strong>in</strong>gthat he, like myself, was an old boy <strong>of</strong> Birkenhead School, albeitlong before my time, <strong>and</strong> I was soon do<strong>in</strong>g my best to satisfy hiscuriosity about what had become <strong>of</strong> several <strong>of</strong> his Schoolcontemporaries.It can be imag<strong>in</strong>ed that this po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> contact was sufficient tosatisfy him that I was reasonably fit for his company, <strong>and</strong> thefollow<strong>in</strong>g day he <strong>in</strong>sisted on be<strong>in</strong>g my guide-companion—it wasa really wet day <strong>and</strong> none <strong>of</strong> his friends would turn out—on myway by Cam Spout to Wasdale Head.On Mickledore, he suggested our proceed<strong>in</strong>g to the foot <strong>of</strong>Lord's Rake, where we were to part, by the Rake's Progress, <strong>and</strong>as the.mist was too thick to let me see what was <strong>in</strong>volved, Ireadily assented, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> spite <strong>of</strong> hear<strong>in</strong>g at one po<strong>in</strong>t a voice fromabove call<strong>in</strong>g out: 'ware stones below,' I thoroughly enjoyedwhat was then to me a novel experience.Who was he? Rucksackers will probably have guessed. Hewas C. H. Pickstone, a name to conjure with <strong>in</strong> their Club. Afew days later I met him aga<strong>in</strong>, this time on the top <strong>of</strong> Esk Pike,<strong>and</strong> accompanied by a daughter who may then have been five orsix years old. It was really my not<strong>in</strong>g how thoroughly at homeshe was on the hills that gave me the idea <strong>of</strong> tak<strong>in</strong>g Tom toWasdale, as already recorded.The other meet<strong>in</strong>g was an equally fortunate one. I arrivedone afternoon at the Royal Oak, Rosthwaite, unbooked, <strong>and</strong> askedfor a room for the night. The maid went to enquire <strong>and</strong> thenreturned to ask if I was Mr. Raeburn. I disclaimed the honour,but none the less ga<strong>in</strong>ed admission. It appeared that they wereexpect<strong>in</strong>g Harold Raeburn to arrive, as <strong>in</strong>deed he did befored<strong>in</strong>ner time, <strong>and</strong> as we were the only two visitors that night(th<strong>in</strong>k <strong>of</strong> it—<strong>in</strong> August!) we naturally fraternised, <strong>and</strong> I have nodoubt he was <strong>in</strong>fluenced <strong>in</strong> be<strong>in</strong>g ready to talk to me by the factthat he found I came from the same home town as G. A. Solly<strong>and</strong> was well acqua<strong>in</strong>ted with him, if only pr<strong>of</strong>essionally at thattime.Dur<strong>in</strong>g the war years, <strong>and</strong> even for a year or two after 1918,active visitors to the Lakes were limited <strong>in</strong> numbers, <strong>and</strong> verylittle rock-climb<strong>in</strong>g was be<strong>in</strong>g done. I was, <strong>of</strong> course, primarilya mere fell walker, but I had not conf<strong>in</strong>ed myself by any meansto guide-book routes, <strong>and</strong> the fact that Wasdale Head had
F. Lawson Coo\ 317become a sort <strong>of</strong> Mecca to me was an <strong>in</strong>dication that I was onlywait<strong>in</strong>g for the opportunity to be ' taken climb<strong>in</strong>g.' I did notfeel sufficient self confidence to <strong>in</strong>dulge <strong>in</strong> solo climb<strong>in</strong>g, at anyrate beyond the ' easy ' category, but I can vividly recall be<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>trigued by several entries <strong>in</strong> the visitors' book at Middle Row,<strong>in</strong> the neatest <strong>of</strong> h<strong>and</strong>writ<strong>in</strong>g, complete with arrows po<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g upor down, <strong>and</strong> record<strong>in</strong>g the exploits <strong>of</strong> one T. Howard Somervell.I am not sure <strong>of</strong> the date when I first met our President <strong>in</strong> theflesh, but I am certa<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> the place. It was on the North Climb<strong>of</strong> the Pillar <strong>Rock</strong>, when he asked for permission to lead his partythrough over the Nose, while my leader was be<strong>in</strong>g lowered <strong>in</strong> theorthodox way <strong>in</strong>to Savage Gully. I took two photographs <strong>of</strong> him,one st<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g on the flake <strong>and</strong> the other with his left knee upmak<strong>in</strong>g the crucial movement. Alas, I never was meant to bea photographer, <strong>and</strong> the slides I had made were very dim affairs,<strong>and</strong>, so far as I can recall, never shown <strong>in</strong> public.It was on one <strong>of</strong> my early visits that, while on my way fromBorrowdale to Wasdale <strong>and</strong> somewhere near Stockley Bridge, Imet a man <strong>and</strong> his wife, who stopped me to obta<strong>in</strong> some <strong>in</strong>formationor other, which I did my best to supply. Both <strong>of</strong> them wererather unsuitably attired for the hills, <strong>and</strong> the man was carry<strong>in</strong>ga substantial suitcase slung over his shoulder on the end <strong>of</strong> awalk<strong>in</strong>g stick.He followed up his orig<strong>in</strong>al enquiry with another: ' What doyou call that bag on your back <strong>and</strong> can they be purchased anywhere?'' It is called a rucksack,' I replied, '<strong>and</strong> can beobta<strong>in</strong>ed quite easily at any sports outfitters. Where do you hailfrom?' ' Manchester,' was his reply. I named a well-knownshop <strong>in</strong> Deansgate. 'Well,' he said, 'thanks very much; you know,my wife <strong>and</strong> I have been go<strong>in</strong>g about from place to place fornearly a week <strong>and</strong> I'm gett<strong>in</strong>g rather sick <strong>of</strong> carry<strong>in</strong>g this case!'As the climb<strong>in</strong>g fraternity resumed its pre-war habits, theaccommodation at Wasdale Head became <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>gly <strong>in</strong> dem<strong>and</strong>by the members <strong>of</strong> the various Clubs, many <strong>of</strong> whom I got toknow, at least by sight. It was <strong>in</strong> 1919, I th<strong>in</strong>k, that I first metJohn Hirst <strong>and</strong> Mrs. Pryor (then Miss Dutton) whose k<strong>in</strong>dly<strong>of</strong>fices, <strong>in</strong> differ<strong>in</strong>g ways, were to mean so much to me. To theone I owe not only my <strong>in</strong>itiation <strong>in</strong> rock-climb<strong>in</strong>g, but also my<strong>in</strong>troduction to membership <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Fell</strong> & <strong>Rock</strong> Club <strong>and</strong> laterto that <strong>of</strong> the Rucksack Club. To the other I am <strong>in</strong>debted notonly for hill-companionship on many occasions, but also for
318 FROM WHEELS TO WHEELS<strong>in</strong>still<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to me an appreciation <strong>of</strong> the more sombre beauties <strong>of</strong>Bleaklow <strong>and</strong> The Peak, especially <strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>ter conditions.Hirst's attention was first called to my presence at Middle Rowby my be<strong>in</strong>g unable to resist the temptation to jo<strong>in</strong> musically, ifthat is the right word, <strong>in</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the after d<strong>in</strong>ner s<strong>in</strong>g-songs, moreor less organised by him, at which Gilbert & Sullivan items, orhis parodies <strong>of</strong> them, were prom<strong>in</strong>ent. For several years theses<strong>in</strong>g-songs were a regular feature, shared <strong>in</strong> by ' strays' from theHotel, such as Robertson Lamb, who always fled ' to fetch mymusic ' when called upon for a solo.The ma<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>terest at Whitsuntide, 1920, was the second fellwalk<strong>in</strong>geffort <strong>of</strong> Eustace Thomas, which duly took place at theend <strong>of</strong> the week. By what was for me an almost superhumaneffort, I was out by the old packhorse bridge before breakfast onthe Saturday morn<strong>in</strong>g to watch him as he descended at about7-30 a.m., <strong>in</strong> what seemed an <strong>in</strong>credibly short time—I believe itwas under twenty m<strong>in</strong>utes — direct from the summit <strong>of</strong> Yewbarrow.That day I was return<strong>in</strong>g home by Langdale, <strong>and</strong> Ireached the Old Hotel just as Eustace was leav<strong>in</strong>g, at a jogtrot,for the Hclvellyn section <strong>of</strong> his ' walk.' His time from Wasdale,over all the Scafell Range to Great End <strong>and</strong> then over Esk Pike<strong>and</strong> Bowfell was exactly four hours.One <strong>of</strong> the earliest meets <strong>of</strong> the P<strong>in</strong>nacle Club was centred atMiddle Row at Whitsuntide, 1921, <strong>and</strong> it was then that I metseveral <strong>of</strong> its orig<strong>in</strong>al members, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the founder, EmilyKelly. At the same meet, an un<strong>of</strong>ficial attendant was JohnHirst—for reasons which were later to become obvious. One daythere was to be a gather<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Club members at the Dress Circle.John asked me to come with him to it, so to speak ' to hold hish<strong>and</strong>.' As this seemed to <strong>of</strong>fer me a chance <strong>of</strong> see<strong>in</strong>g at closequarters, if not partak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>, some rock climb<strong>in</strong>g, I at onceagreed. As it happened, he succeeded <strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>duc<strong>in</strong>g another maleto jo<strong>in</strong> the party, <strong>and</strong> on arrival at the Circle he was courageousenough to <strong>in</strong>vite the two <strong>of</strong> us, absolute novices, to climb on theone rope with him. I was <strong>in</strong> boots adequately nailed, but hisother victim was <strong>in</strong> comparatively new shoes whose only virtuewas their rubber soles <strong>and</strong> heels. The climb selected was theNeedle Ridge, <strong>and</strong> even <strong>in</strong> those days the bottom slab was gett<strong>in</strong>gpolished, <strong>and</strong> it can be imag<strong>in</strong>ed what the shoes looked like whenthey arrived at the top <strong>of</strong> the pitch. However, we duly completedthe climb, <strong>and</strong> then returned to base down the Needle Gully,
F. Lawson Coo\ 319' thirdman ' f<strong>in</strong>ish<strong>in</strong>g by be<strong>in</strong>g lowered the f<strong>in</strong>al three feet afterbecom<strong>in</strong>g entirely detached from all his holds.One <strong>of</strong> those whom I had seen, but not become acqua<strong>in</strong>tedwith, at Wasdale at this time was Edgar H. Pryor. He was thena prom<strong>in</strong>ent member <strong>of</strong> the Liverpool Wayfarers' Club, <strong>of</strong>which he was President <strong>in</strong> 1921-22. In November, 1922, Iattended the lecture on Everest given by George Leigh Mallory<strong>in</strong> the Birkenhead Y.M.C.A. at which Pryor was one <strong>of</strong> thestewards. He recognised me as one whom he had seen atWasdale <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>troduced himself to me. In this way began afriendship which was to endure, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> later years it led to manyclimbs <strong>and</strong> walks <strong>in</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>, North Wales <strong>and</strong> Derbyshire <strong>in</strong>his genial <strong>and</strong> experienced company.The day follow<strong>in</strong>g the Mallory lecture I was tak<strong>in</strong>g Tom awayto Capel Curig for the week-end. I was book<strong>in</strong>g our tra<strong>in</strong> ticketsat Birkenhead when a voice beh<strong>in</strong>d me said, ' That's an<strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g rucksack you are carry<strong>in</strong>g.' It was Mallory's voice,<strong>and</strong> Tom <strong>and</strong> I had the great pleasure <strong>of</strong> his company as far asColwyn Bay, where he alighted, for he was booked to lecture tothe staff <strong>and</strong> boys <strong>of</strong> Rydal School that even<strong>in</strong>g.A few days before the Whitsuntide holiday <strong>of</strong> 1923 I had tovisit London on bus<strong>in</strong>ess, <strong>and</strong>, as I should be deta<strong>in</strong>ed until ratherlate on the Friday afternoon, I decided to travel direct by thenight tra<strong>in</strong> which had a connection arriv<strong>in</strong>g at W<strong>in</strong>dermere about5-30 a.m. This <strong>in</strong>volved tak<strong>in</strong>g my holiday clothes, <strong>and</strong> also aclimb<strong>in</strong>g rope, up to London, to be deposited <strong>in</strong> the left-luggage<strong>of</strong>fice at Euston <strong>and</strong> picked up on the Friday even<strong>in</strong>g. In duecourse, on jo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g the tra<strong>in</strong>, I booked a seat for myself with therope <strong>and</strong> adjourned to the lavatory compartment to effect a completechange <strong>and</strong> repack my town clothes for similar deposit atW<strong>in</strong>dermere. This process, <strong>in</strong> the usual limited space, tooklonger than I expected, <strong>and</strong> before it was complete the tra<strong>in</strong> hadstarted.When I returned to my compartment, I found all the otherseats were occupied, but my rope had fulfilled its temporaryfunction. All I was conscious <strong>of</strong> at the moment as regards myfellow passengers was that they were obviously curious as to whatit was for <strong>and</strong> why I was somewhat disreputably attired. AtWigan I had to change, as also had one <strong>of</strong> the passengers, a ladybound for Ulverston, whom I assisted with her luggage to thetra<strong>in</strong> we both had to jo<strong>in</strong>. In the course <strong>of</strong> conversation, sheG
320 FROM WHEELS TO WHEELSexpressed some curiosity about the rope <strong>and</strong> I expla<strong>in</strong>ed, <strong>in</strong> nontechnicallanguage, its purpose <strong>and</strong> use. Whereupon, shevolunteered the <strong>in</strong>formation that before I jo<strong>in</strong>ed the company <strong>in</strong>the previous carriage there had been some speculation on thissubject, <strong>and</strong> that one suggestion had been that I might be on myway to Lancaster where there was to be an execution thefollow<strong>in</strong>g week!On arrival at W<strong>in</strong>dermere the only transport available was thePost Office van tak<strong>in</strong>g the mails as far as Grasmere. There werethree other men plead<strong>in</strong>g for it, but only to Ambleside. Thedriver agreed to take us if two would travel with the mail bags<strong>in</strong> the rear compartment. By a process <strong>of</strong> toss<strong>in</strong>g up, I becameone <strong>of</strong> them. At Ambleside the van was backed to the door <strong>of</strong>the sort<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>fice, the doors flung open, <strong>and</strong> we were helped out,with a certa<strong>in</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> banter<strong>in</strong>g by the wait<strong>in</strong>g postmen.From there to White Moss I travelled <strong>in</strong> better style alongside thedriver, <strong>and</strong> then walked to what was at that time well known asthe ' Ackerleys' Hut' near Stool End, <strong>in</strong> time for breakfast beforewalk<strong>in</strong>g over to Wasdale.As will have appeared from my experience on the night tra<strong>in</strong>from London, I had by then become keen on rock-climb<strong>in</strong>g. Infact, <strong>in</strong> addition to further climbs with Hirst <strong>and</strong> others atWasdale the previous year, I had got to know Raymond Shaw,<strong>and</strong> through him Graham Wilson, with both <strong>of</strong> whom I had donesome climb<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Wales, so, on this 1923 Wasdale visit whichwas for a full week, I did practically noth<strong>in</strong>g else. Presumably,John Hirst, who was aga<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> the Middle Row party, wassufficiently impressed with my progress as a climber, if not as avocalist, to <strong>in</strong>vite me to come as his guest to the <strong>Fell</strong> & <strong>Rock</strong>D<strong>in</strong>ner at Coniston. We stayed together at The Crook atTorver, meet<strong>in</strong>g at Preston station on the way north <strong>and</strong> be<strong>in</strong>gmet at W<strong>in</strong>dermere by the bus <strong>of</strong> the Crown Hotel at Coniston.In the party were several men whose friendship could onlybe regarded as a privilege, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Harry Scott, EustaceThomas, Philip M<strong>in</strong>or <strong>and</strong> Edgar Pryor. Our journey <strong>in</strong> thebus was not without adventure. It only carried dim oil sidelights,<strong>and</strong> on the steep drop <strong>in</strong>to Oxenfell we were startled by a distantcry <strong>of</strong> alarm followed by a violent lurch <strong>of</strong> the bus as the driverswerved partly up the left h<strong>and</strong> bank to avoid an unlighted <strong>and</strong>untended horse <strong>and</strong> cart. The cry had come from the carterwho was some fifty yards lower down the road.
F. Lawson Cool^ 321John <strong>and</strong> I had Dow Crag pretty well to ourselves on theSaturday, but the Club was represented <strong>in</strong> force on the Sundayboth on the Crag <strong>and</strong> later at what was <strong>in</strong> those days the traditionals<strong>in</strong>g-song at the Sun Hotel. In the course <strong>of</strong> the even<strong>in</strong>g,no doubt at John's <strong>in</strong>stigation, I was called on to s<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> mychoice was ' The Humane Mikado.' So far as one <strong>of</strong> myaudience was concerned, I could not have chosen better, for H. P.Ca<strong>in</strong> was a ' G. & S.' enthusiast like myself. From that time onhe dubbed me ' The Mikado.' Harry Scott's reaction was to<strong>in</strong>clude me at a later date <strong>in</strong> his own parody <strong>of</strong> Koko's little listas ' the fellow with the rubber face, that's Cook from Liverpool.'I note from the Club H<strong>and</strong>book that my year <strong>of</strong> jo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g theClub is recorded as 1923, so that I must have been elected veryshortly after this D<strong>in</strong>ner Meet, but whether as a vocalist orbecause <strong>of</strong> such climb<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> walk<strong>in</strong>g experience as I could show,I hesitate to say. After all, the st<strong>and</strong>ards required at that periodwere somewhat more elastic than they have subsequently become.The pride which I felt on be<strong>in</strong>g accepted for membership hasbeen a persistent emotion as the years have passed, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>response to it my later activities as a mounta<strong>in</strong>eer have so largelybeen shared with fellow members, as to make detailed recollection<strong>of</strong> them superfluous. One or two <strong>in</strong>cidents, however, may notbe familiar to very many.At Easter, 1926, the Club celebrated the centenary <strong>of</strong> the firstascent <strong>of</strong> the Pillar <strong>Rock</strong>. I was spend<strong>in</strong>g the week-end withmy wife at Buttermere. Tom was with us, <strong>and</strong> he <strong>and</strong> I set outto attend the ceremony. It was a misty morn<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> thehead <strong>of</strong> Ennerdale visibility was down to about fifteen yards. Aswe followed the track to the top <strong>of</strong> Black Sail a figure emergedout <strong>of</strong> the mist on the far side <strong>of</strong> the descend<strong>in</strong>g beck on our left.It was that <strong>of</strong> A. W. Wakefield. I hailed him <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> reply hecalled out, ' Where am I ?' Com<strong>in</strong>g from him it seemed a strangeenquiry, but as he had contoured the head <strong>of</strong> the dale <strong>in</strong> thickmist all the way from the col between Br<strong>and</strong>reth <strong>and</strong> GreenGable, it was perhaps underst<strong>and</strong>able, <strong>and</strong> certa<strong>in</strong>ly his route hadbeen well directed, for with<strong>in</strong> a comparatively few m<strong>in</strong>utes afterhe had jo<strong>in</strong>ed us we reached the top <strong>of</strong> the pass <strong>and</strong> were soonon the high level track to the Rob<strong>in</strong>son cairn.For the August Bank Floliday week-end <strong>of</strong> 1938, by whichtime I had succumbed to the temptation <strong>of</strong> driv<strong>in</strong>g north <strong>in</strong> a car<strong>of</strong> my own, it was arranged that I should br<strong>in</strong>g my wife <strong>and</strong> an
322 FROM WHEELS TO WHEELSelderly lady friend <strong>of</strong> us both to spend about a week together atHall Dunnerdale, while I came on to Brackenclose where I mightreasonably hope to obta<strong>in</strong> some climb<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> congenial company.In this expectation I was to be disappo<strong>in</strong>ted, for dur<strong>in</strong>g the whole<strong>of</strong> my visit I had the Hut to myself. As I was due to arrive lateon the Friday even<strong>in</strong>g I had obta<strong>in</strong>ed what was supposed to bea key from the Warden. It would fit neither front door nor backdoor lock! Fortunately for me the last occupant had left a w<strong>in</strong>dowover one <strong>of</strong> the kitchen s<strong>in</strong>ks unsecured, <strong>and</strong> I effected myentrance <strong>in</strong> an undignified but easy fashion.When I turned <strong>in</strong> that night there was no sign <strong>of</strong> the violentstorm that was to develop rapidly <strong>in</strong> the early hours <strong>of</strong> themorn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> render sleep impossible, for, as the w<strong>in</strong>d <strong>and</strong> ra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>creased, even the fabric <strong>of</strong> the hut shook with the force <strong>of</strong> thestorm <strong>and</strong> the pound<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the floodwaters <strong>of</strong> L<strong>in</strong>gmell Gillaga<strong>in</strong>st its banks.Next morn<strong>in</strong>g, as the ra<strong>in</strong> was still heavy, I started <strong>of</strong>f <strong>in</strong> mycar to get <strong>in</strong> milk, etc., from Wasdale Head Hall, to f<strong>in</strong>d theapproach gate to the farm half under water, so high had the lakerisen. My next resource was to try the other way along the roadto Wasdale Head itself, aga<strong>in</strong> to be stopped on the top <strong>of</strong> the firstbridge I reached, as there was a sheer drop <strong>of</strong> several feet at itsfar end where the approach-embankment had been completelywashed away by the escap<strong>in</strong>g torrent, after it had blocked withdebris the normal channel under the bridge. Beat<strong>in</strong>g a retreatwith the car to the safety <strong>of</strong> the upper levels before Brackencloseitself, I found I could only make contact with the Hall Farmresidence by contour<strong>in</strong>g round the fellside <strong>and</strong> at times wad<strong>in</strong>gknee-deep.The damage done by the flood <strong>in</strong> reduc<strong>in</strong>g the area <strong>of</strong> theBrackenclose site is still obvious, but it is difficult now to realiseentirely what the conditions were that week-end <strong>and</strong> especiallyhow high the level <strong>of</strong> the lake rose <strong>in</strong> this one night. Even theroad up from Str<strong>and</strong>s was flooded near Netherbeck to such adepth as to be impassable by cars, <strong>and</strong> the week-end provisionsfor Wasdale Head had to be manh<strong>and</strong>led round the flood waters,while those for the Hall Farm were transported across L<strong>in</strong>gmellBeck on a home-made ' breeches buoy ' consist<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> a clothesbasketslung on climb<strong>in</strong>g ropes.It was not until the Tuesday that it became possible to organisea salvage corps for my car <strong>and</strong> two or three others marooned at
F. hawson Coo\ 323the Hall Farm. They were run down to the Lake marg<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong>driven by a zig-zag course through the ' erratics' to the higherground between the two war-time-built bridges.As the years have passed s<strong>in</strong>ce then the <strong>in</strong>sidious <strong>in</strong>fluence <strong>of</strong>an <strong>in</strong>nate propensity towards laz<strong>in</strong>ess, <strong>and</strong>, latterly, the naturaleffects <strong>of</strong> ' decl<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g years,' have become <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>gly difficult toresist, until I am no longer ashamed <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>dulg<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a day'smotor<strong>in</strong>g, not merely occasionally, as part <strong>of</strong> a Lakel<strong>and</strong> holiday.That the time was approach<strong>in</strong>g when all my mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>gwould have to be achieved once more on wheels, was perhaps<strong>in</strong>dicated by an <strong>in</strong>cident just prior to the D<strong>in</strong>ner Meet <strong>of</strong> 1954.One showery day I was content to conf<strong>in</strong>e my activities to a walkround the west side <strong>of</strong> Derwentwater to Grange. As I came out<strong>of</strong> the Br<strong>and</strong>lehow Woods about noon, I fell <strong>in</strong> with a lady <strong>and</strong>gentleman who enquired whether there was any chance <strong>of</strong> theirbe<strong>in</strong>g able to get lunch <strong>in</strong> Grange. I told them that it wasunlikely they would be able to obta<strong>in</strong> anyth<strong>in</strong>g more elaboratethan boiled eggs, but that I could show them a cottage at whichthey could apply, where <strong>in</strong> fact I myself was hop<strong>in</strong>g to getsupplied with a pot <strong>of</strong> tea.In due course, our simple wants were supplied at the cottageI had <strong>in</strong> m<strong>in</strong>d, <strong>and</strong> we chatted for a moment or two beforeresum<strong>in</strong>g our several journeys. In the course <strong>of</strong> this the gentleman<strong>in</strong>formed me that his wife felt sure she had seen me on aprevious occasion. When I enquired where it might be, I wassomewhat amused, if not disturbed, to be told, ' In the KeswickMuseum.' It seemed to conjure up a vision <strong>of</strong> myself some dayoccupy<strong>in</strong>g a glass case <strong>in</strong> that <strong>in</strong>stitution with a tablet announc<strong>in</strong>gme as a specimen <strong>of</strong> an ' Ancient British Hill Man, very rare, nowalmost ext<strong>in</strong>ct — Please do not touch.'If any reader <strong>of</strong> the Journal has had sufficient perseverance ork<strong>in</strong>dl<strong>in</strong>ess, or both, to read as far as this po<strong>in</strong>t, he will no doubtbe relieved to observe that the f<strong>in</strong>al paragraphs are at last with<strong>in</strong>sight. By way <strong>of</strong> excuse for my prolixity, I can only plead thatthe urge to recount some <strong>of</strong> the <strong>in</strong>cidents, humorous or otherwise,which have marked one's grow<strong>in</strong>g feel<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> appreciation<strong>and</strong> affection for Lakel<strong>and</strong>, is sometimes difficult to resist, <strong>and</strong>that if yield<strong>in</strong>g to it is to be pardoned, it were better that it shouldnot be postponed too long.In his General Preface to the 1829 Edition <strong>of</strong> The WaverleyNovels, when he was about fifty-eight years <strong>of</strong> age, Sir Walter
324 FROM WHEELS TO WHEELSScott, <strong>in</strong> partial apology for his volum<strong>in</strong>ous notes to the novels,wrote these words, ' Old men may be permitted to speak long,because they cannot <strong>in</strong> the course <strong>of</strong> nature have long time tospeak.' Perhaps, if he had been mak<strong>in</strong>g the same excuse today,he might, as a lawyer, have pleaded that he was only a victim <strong>of</strong>what had long been recognised as an occupational disease. Thosemembers <strong>of</strong> the Club who were present at the last AnnualGeneral Meet<strong>in</strong>g may remember that I was po<strong>in</strong>ted out (by onequite competent to do so) as a similar victim. At the time, Icould only, <strong>in</strong> silence, accept his remark as a genial, as well aswitty, comment on my previous loquacity <strong>and</strong> jo<strong>in</strong> heartily <strong>and</strong>without reserve <strong>in</strong> the laughter which greeted it.
FURTHER NOTES ON THE GREAT LANGDALESTONE AXE FACTORYR. G. Fl<strong>in</strong>tS<strong>in</strong>ce I wrote the article on the Stone Axe Factory thatappeared <strong>in</strong> Journal No. 46, many further visits have been paidto the site <strong>and</strong> some more facts have come to light which may be<strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>terest.Exploration <strong>of</strong> the gullies <strong>and</strong> buttresses between Pike <strong>of</strong>Stickle <strong>and</strong> L<strong>of</strong>t Crag show that the work was carried on over thewhole <strong>of</strong> the <strong>in</strong>terven<strong>in</strong>g ground, thus provid<strong>in</strong>g the connect<strong>in</strong>gl<strong>in</strong>k between the ma<strong>in</strong> site on the Pike <strong>and</strong> the secondary one onHarrison Stickle (allow<strong>in</strong>g for the gap caused by the DungeonGhyll rav<strong>in</strong>e).Amongst the f<strong>in</strong>ds made recently are two <strong>of</strong> note. One is anaxe so f<strong>in</strong>ely flaked that very little polish<strong>in</strong>g would be required tomake it <strong>in</strong>to a perfect implement. It certa<strong>in</strong>ly cannot be consideredas a discard like the vast majority <strong>of</strong> the f<strong>in</strong>ds, but hasprobably been mislaid <strong>and</strong> lost. The other is a disc <strong>of</strong> rock 7"<strong>in</strong> diameter <strong>and</strong> 2" thick, with the greater part <strong>of</strong> the edgerounded by gr<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g. Although it has been exam<strong>in</strong>ed byexperts no explanation can yet be given as to its use.In his Lake District History (1928) the late R. G. Coll<strong>in</strong>gwoodcomments on the local Neolithic Sites (1) <strong>and</strong> po<strong>in</strong>ts outthat with the exception <strong>of</strong> the chipp<strong>in</strong>g site near Port<strong>in</strong>scalethere appears to have been no great penetration <strong>in</strong>to the heart <strong>of</strong>the district—the existence <strong>of</strong> the Langdale factory was, <strong>of</strong> course,not known at that time. It is an <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g speculation as towhether the f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g by Neolithic man <strong>of</strong> cobbles at Port<strong>in</strong>scalesuitable for work<strong>in</strong>g led to a wider search culm<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> thediscovery <strong>of</strong> the factory site itself. That the rock appears on theLangstrath side <strong>of</strong> the Pikes is shown by the situation <strong>of</strong> Watson'sSite (2) <strong>and</strong> the Port<strong>in</strong>scale cobbles may well have been glacialdrift from that place. It is a pity that the implements foundthere <strong>and</strong> now <strong>in</strong> the Fitz Museum, Keswick, have not yet beenpetrologically exam<strong>in</strong>ed for identification.The recent identification (3) <strong>of</strong> polished <strong>and</strong> partly-polishedaxes found at Ehenside Tarn many years ago, as <strong>of</strong> Langdaleorig<strong>in</strong>, together with the further identification <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> the manypieces <strong>of</strong> red granite boulders (4) found on Pike <strong>of</strong> Stickle, asfrom Low Gillerthwaite, Ennerdale, seems to po<strong>in</strong>t to the <strong>in</strong>habitants<strong>of</strong> the Ehenside Tarn site enter<strong>in</strong>g the fells by way <strong>of</strong> theEhen River <strong>and</strong> Ennerdale Lake, pick<strong>in</strong>g out <strong>of</strong> the beck at Low
326 FURTHER NOTES ON THE GREAT LANGDALE STONE AXE FACTORYGillerthwaite suitable granite boulders for use as anvils orhammer stones <strong>and</strong> carry<strong>in</strong>g them to the factory via W<strong>in</strong>dy Gap,Esk Hause <strong>and</strong> Stake. As a canoe <strong>and</strong> paddle were also foundon the tarn site, it, too, may have been used as transport to <strong>and</strong>from the site to the head <strong>of</strong> the lake. The establishment <strong>of</strong> thefactory shows a very great penetration <strong>in</strong>to the heart <strong>of</strong> thedistrict.In my previous article I mentioned that the rocks <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>orig<strong>in</strong> used <strong>in</strong> the mak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> stone implements had been groupedas VI, VIII <strong>and</strong> XI. Group VI is the type generally used; butGroup VIII is represented only by an axe <strong>and</strong> a few flakes <strong>and</strong>Group XI by a fragment <strong>of</strong> an axe <strong>and</strong> flakes. A flake <strong>of</strong> each<strong>of</strong> these two latter Groups was found when the factory was firstdiscovered <strong>and</strong> an <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g problem arose when they werepetrologically exam<strong>in</strong>ed. Both flakes were found to be identicalwith specimens from S.W. Wales (5) <strong>and</strong> it was suggested thatrock might have been brought all the way to Langdale forrough<strong>in</strong>g out. This, however, seemed highly improbable, <strong>and</strong>it was decided to try <strong>and</strong> f<strong>in</strong>d the relative outcrops. Many visitswere paid to the factory without result, until the f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> someGroup XI flakes at the foot <strong>of</strong> Ma<strong>in</strong> Wall, Gimmer, <strong>in</strong> September,1955, led to the discovery a few days later <strong>of</strong> an outcrop <strong>of</strong>similar rock at the foot <strong>of</strong> L<strong>of</strong>t Crag. This was followed up byanother visit to Pike <strong>of</strong> Stickle where two further outcrops werefound, thus settl<strong>in</strong>g the question <strong>of</strong> the orig<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> Group XI specimens.The search for Group VIII rock is still go<strong>in</strong>g on.References:—(i) Lake District History, pp. 5/6 <strong>and</strong> 15.(2) Proc. Prehist. Soc., VII (1941), p. 58.(3) Trans. Cumb. <strong>and</strong> West. Ant. <strong>and</strong> Arch. Sue, L (19<strong>50</strong>),p. 9.(4) Geological Survey, Summ. <strong>of</strong> Prog, for 1952, p. 45.(=5) Proc. Prehist. Soc, XVII, Pt. 2 (1951).
' NOWT CAPS CONISTON '/. W. DiamondWrit<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the shadow <strong>of</strong> the Old Man, on this serene <strong>and</strong>colourful autumn afternoon, one <strong>of</strong> many that is prolong<strong>in</strong>g theperfect summer <strong>of</strong> 1955, thoughts tend to dwell on theunchang<strong>in</strong>g scene. The outl<strong>in</strong>e <strong>of</strong> the fells, the pr<strong>of</strong>ile <strong>of</strong> thecrags, are just as they were on that day <strong>in</strong> 1906, nearly fifty yearsago, when the <strong>Fell</strong> & <strong>Rock</strong> was born. People <strong>and</strong> places, however,come <strong>and</strong> go. Even the very birthplace <strong>of</strong> the Club, the SunHotel, is aga<strong>in</strong> chang<strong>in</strong>g h<strong>and</strong>s. Would it be prophetic toenvisage that, with the Jubilee <strong>of</strong> <strong>1956</strong>, Coniston may once moreemerge as a popular rendezvous <strong>of</strong> the climb<strong>in</strong>g world—much asit was <strong>in</strong> the thirties, aided by the good fellowship <strong>of</strong> the energeticproprietors <strong>of</strong> a certa<strong>in</strong> ' Climbers' Hut' atop <strong>of</strong> the hill. Halcyondays those, especially if they co<strong>in</strong>cided with that glorious period<strong>of</strong> one's climb<strong>in</strong>g youth, when some sage encountered <strong>in</strong> the cavedubbed one ' tiger,' <strong>and</strong> one thereupon rose, <strong>and</strong> knocked <strong>of</strong>fanother couple <strong>of</strong> severes before runn<strong>in</strong>g perspir<strong>in</strong>gly to the tarnsideto cool <strong>of</strong>f.Climb<strong>in</strong>g rocks, <strong>in</strong> fact, tended to take up the bulk <strong>of</strong> one'stime at week-ends, <strong>and</strong> dur<strong>in</strong>g the week there were the ' tick<strong>in</strong>g<strong>of</strong>f'to be done <strong>in</strong> the guidebook, <strong>and</strong> arrangements to be madefor the next out<strong>in</strong>g. So it was that more momentous questions,such as the imm<strong>in</strong>ent <strong>in</strong>vasion <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong> by hordes <strong>of</strong> Jerrybuilders,Hydro-electrical Eng<strong>in</strong>eers, Road-makers, <strong>and</strong> Tour<strong>in</strong>gTrippers, were apt to be conveniently shelved or at best brushedaside with a peremptory ' Leave Lakel<strong>and</strong> Alone,' an uncompromis<strong>in</strong>gattitude not unknown today <strong>in</strong> some circles whichpr<strong>of</strong>ess to be protect<strong>in</strong>g the amenities!Coniston, <strong>of</strong> course, went to the dogs long ago. Like allvalleys where<strong>in</strong> are found good slate seams or metal ve<strong>in</strong>s, Yewdale'sscars are pla<strong>in</strong> to see. On a misty day the Old Man triesto hide his disfigurement, whilst up <strong>in</strong> the M<strong>in</strong>es Valley theprospectors are once more prob<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> add<strong>in</strong>g a little to thepiles <strong>of</strong> debris, which time hardly seems to mellow. Yet thereward <strong>of</strong> those who, undeterred by these monstrous sores, penetrateabove <strong>and</strong> beyond, is to enter <strong>in</strong>to either the lovely recess <strong>of</strong>Low Water, or that strik<strong>in</strong>g sanctuary, the bowl <strong>of</strong> Levers Water.Mention <strong>of</strong> the slowness with which the man-scarred mounta<strong>in</strong>mellows with the years prompts the question — can noth<strong>in</strong>g bedone to accelerate this process ? Certa<strong>in</strong>ly it can. A short while
328 'NOWT CAPS CONISTON'ago, someone started to experiment with a scheme to cover up thewaste heaps on the Old Man with soil carted from below, aHerculean task, which appears to have been discont<strong>in</strong>ued; butsurely such places—where active work has largely ceased—oughtto rank high <strong>in</strong> the list for enlightened afforestation. Admittedlythe higher dumps on the Old Man are above the contour at whicheven the hardiest conifers can be expected to flourish; but just shutyour eyes for a moment, <strong>and</strong> visualise a M<strong>in</strong>es Valley with anartificial tarn, beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g at the present hydro-electric dam (whichwould have to be raised slightly), <strong>and</strong> end<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> front <strong>of</strong> theYouth Hostel, with a background <strong>of</strong> mixed conifers cloak<strong>in</strong>g therubble heaps <strong>and</strong> carry<strong>in</strong>g the eye easily onto the shapely ridgeslead<strong>in</strong>g to the high fells. Worth while, do you th<strong>in</strong>k? If <strong>in</strong>doubt, why not take a look at Yew Tree Tarn, a recentlyrevealed gem, once an untidy-look<strong>in</strong>g marsh.Yes, ' Lovers <strong>of</strong> the Lakes,' whilst all must applaud your effortsto ensure that no nasty poles peer above the tree tops to mar theLangdale or the Borrowdale scene, may we rem<strong>in</strong>d you thatConiston folk have had their electricity for several decades, <strong>and</strong>at the relatively small cost <strong>in</strong> amenity <strong>of</strong> an <strong>in</strong>significant dam, arather ugly filter <strong>and</strong> an <strong>in</strong>conspicuous power-house. Even lessobvious were these, before the v<strong>and</strong>alism that war <strong>in</strong>spiresdeprived us <strong>of</strong> the graceful grove <strong>of</strong> larches, that once made thisroute such a pretty approach to the heights. Strange to th<strong>in</strong>kthat the people <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>'s two most popular valleys should solong have been denied the latest means <strong>of</strong> cook<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>and</strong>warm<strong>in</strong>g the return<strong>in</strong>g <strong>Fell</strong> & <strong>Rock</strong>er!Coniston, <strong>in</strong>deed, ought not to rest on its laurels. Hav<strong>in</strong>gforged ahead, there seems no reason why it should not cont<strong>in</strong>ueto do so <strong>and</strong> utilise its augmented electric power to sponsor anextension to its railway system on the Swiss pattern, by <strong>in</strong>augurat<strong>in</strong>gsome sort <strong>of</strong> chair-lift, start<strong>in</strong>g from the present railwaystation (for several years the misguidedly appo<strong>in</strong>ted rendezvous<strong>of</strong> the Club's <strong>of</strong>ficial meet) <strong>and</strong> end<strong>in</strong>g on the large quarryplatform beneath Low Water. Thence the superannuatedmembers <strong>of</strong> our Club resid<strong>in</strong>g locally could be hired to essay thef<strong>in</strong>al ascent to the summit, with or without ice-axes, as the seasondem<strong>and</strong>ed!In support <strong>of</strong> this proposition, put forward <strong>in</strong> all seriousness,should it not be the right <strong>of</strong> all folks, irrespective <strong>of</strong> age, membership<strong>of</strong> a club or knowledge <strong>of</strong> the rules, to have an opportunity
. W. Diamond 329<strong>of</strong> partak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the essential life-giv<strong>in</strong>g properties <strong>of</strong> our puremounta<strong>in</strong> air, <strong>in</strong> exchange for the ' smog ' <strong>of</strong> our <strong>in</strong>dustrialcentres? As it is, the coach crowds, crawl<strong>in</strong>g so disconsolatelybetween picture postcards <strong>and</strong> ice-cream, are soon whisked awayaga<strong>in</strong>, without hav<strong>in</strong>g tasted our chief delight, the pure nectaronly to be found above the 1,000 ft. level.Not everyone, m<strong>in</strong>d you, would wish to be so transplanted,but for those who did, <strong>and</strong> could afford the modest fare chargedby the proprietors — who could well be some enlightened futurecommittee <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong>, look<strong>in</strong>g for an outlet for theirsurplus capital, created by the accumulated pr<strong>of</strong>its <strong>of</strong> their manyhuts — the f<strong>in</strong>al ascent to the summit would have its due reward.Not only the view, which might be mist, or the feel<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> conquest—don'tforget that to some it would be their Everest—but areally hot steam<strong>in</strong>g cup <strong>of</strong> tea, c<strong>of</strong>fee or soup, dispensed with abroad smile by, preferably, an ex-President skilled <strong>in</strong> the art <strong>of</strong>keep<strong>in</strong>g th<strong>in</strong>gs hot <strong>in</strong> high places. In other words, the orig<strong>in</strong>albeehive summit shelter, which once capped ©ur Old Man's head,would have been rebuilt, <strong>and</strong> its upkeep might well be ourbus<strong>in</strong>ess!How reward<strong>in</strong>g, after all this, to stroll or ski <strong>in</strong> season, downto Goat's Hause <strong>and</strong> the tarn, with that grim, defiant precipicefill<strong>in</strong>g the nearer view, paus<strong>in</strong>g now <strong>and</strong> then to watch the' tigers ' <strong>in</strong>ch<strong>in</strong>g their ways up any <strong>of</strong> six dozen <strong>of</strong> the f<strong>in</strong>estroutes <strong>in</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>!It is a pity <strong>in</strong> some ways that this f<strong>in</strong>e crag — so popular <strong>of</strong>yester year — should have suffered a decl<strong>in</strong>e. It is thought bysome that the climber <strong>of</strong> the post-war age likes his crag <strong>in</strong> fullview <strong>of</strong> his pub; certa<strong>in</strong>ly our stupid licens<strong>in</strong>g system prohibitsmany from enjoy<strong>in</strong>g a well-earned p<strong>in</strong>t after a thirsty day ondistant rocks, <strong>and</strong> the present popularity <strong>of</strong> the lower cragssupports this view. Local Mounta<strong>in</strong> Rescue Teams, needless tosay, welcome this phase, as it normally dem<strong>and</strong>s from them ashorter search <strong>and</strong> a quicker carry! At any rate, all climbers <strong>of</strong> thispersuasion are hereby recommended to try their h<strong>and</strong> on MartCrag, just south <strong>of</strong> White Gill <strong>in</strong> Yewdale. It is short, steep <strong>and</strong>,as far as the writer knows, still virg<strong>in</strong>. Most important <strong>of</strong> all, itcan be reached from the village hostelries <strong>in</strong> someth<strong>in</strong>g underhalf-an-hour!Boulder Valley, unique <strong>of</strong> its k<strong>in</strong>d <strong>in</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong>, ly<strong>in</strong>g beneaththe long white thread issu<strong>in</strong>g from Low Water, <strong>and</strong> not
330 'NOWT CAPS CONISTON'nowadays <strong>of</strong>ten visited by climbers, has many severe routes on itsPudd<strong>in</strong>g Stone <strong>and</strong> other blocks, <strong>and</strong> provides first-class practicefor an <strong>of</strong>f day.As for the fells, from Old Man to Swirl How is as f<strong>in</strong>e a ridgewalk as you could wish for, whilst the skyl<strong>in</strong>e near the rockw<strong>in</strong>dowon top <strong>of</strong> Dow provides some <strong>in</strong>trigu<strong>in</strong>g glimpses downto the buttresses. An <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g pastime, once you know yourfells well, especially on wet, w<strong>in</strong>dy days, is to discover the leeside <strong>of</strong> your mounta<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> traverse that side <strong>of</strong> it. One suchwalk starts from Hole Rake, above the Copper M<strong>in</strong>es, <strong>and</strong> goesacross the Langdale faces <strong>of</strong> Wetherlam, via an ancient trackonce used by m<strong>in</strong>ers go<strong>in</strong>g to Greenburn copper shafts. Thence,you either return through the gap <strong>of</strong> Swirl Hause, or cont<strong>in</strong>ue tocontour round the combe, across the crag on Carrs to Wet SideEdge. From there keep level to the Grey Friar's Col <strong>and</strong>Levers Hause, then along to Goat's Hause to connect up aga<strong>in</strong>with your rock types at the ' Cave.' If ever you try this trod,you may f<strong>in</strong>d the odd cairn, placed there by the pioneers, usefulat doubtful po<strong>in</strong>ts.Cairns! Can the purists be heard exclaim<strong>in</strong>g vehementlyaga<strong>in</strong>st these artificial aids? Agreed, they can be overdone <strong>and</strong>become most mislead<strong>in</strong>g. On the other h<strong>and</strong>, if you are one<strong>of</strong> those stubborn people who make an occasional po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> pitt<strong>in</strong>gthemselves aga<strong>in</strong>st the elements — by go<strong>in</strong>g out at night, or <strong>in</strong>thick mist, deep snow, heavy ra<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> the like — you will mostlikely be glad to pay your grudg<strong>in</strong>g respects to these l<strong>and</strong>marks.However, if you only go out <strong>in</strong> reasonably good weather, or <strong>in</strong>large parties like those you get at Club meets, when you canusually rely on there be<strong>in</strong>g at least one <strong>in</strong> the party with a properlydeveloped sense <strong>of</strong> direction, you will most likely cont<strong>in</strong>ue toscorn cairns <strong>and</strong> even take your turn at knock<strong>in</strong>g them down!In pre-war days, visitors to Coniston used to have an alternativebeauty spot to Tarn Hows — always very lovely <strong>in</strong> any weather<strong>and</strong> superlative for skat<strong>in</strong>g, by the light <strong>of</strong> sun or moon. Thiswas Tilberthwaite, but now, alas, its bridges are down <strong>and</strong> whowill help to restore them? A selfless task surely, well worthy <strong>of</strong>any great Club or Association with men or money to spare!This Club <strong>of</strong> ours, started here by the first ' Barrow Boys,' hascome a long way <strong>in</strong> these past fifty years. Its members havebrought honour to it at home <strong>and</strong> abroad, for <strong>in</strong> bothspheres the list <strong>of</strong> first ascents is never-end<strong>in</strong>g. As one <strong>of</strong> the
. W. Diamond 331largest <strong>and</strong> most <strong>in</strong>fluential bodies <strong>of</strong> organised mounta<strong>in</strong>eers <strong>of</strong>both sexes <strong>in</strong> Great Brita<strong>in</strong>, its example sets a precedent, <strong>and</strong> itsresponsibility to posterity is greater than ever before. That iswhy, therefore, the policy <strong>of</strong> our Club must always dem<strong>and</strong> themost search<strong>in</strong>g thought, <strong>and</strong> might perhaps at times be betterexpressed, not so much by the elected m<strong>in</strong>ority, as by that<strong>in</strong>articulate majority whom they annually <strong>and</strong> artfully persuadeto put them <strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice!Coniston, where it all began half a century ago, has, one feels,a f<strong>in</strong>al message to <strong>of</strong>fer. Here, side by side, can be seen theworks <strong>of</strong> man at his worst <strong>and</strong> best. In his baser mood, tak<strong>in</strong>gall for ga<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> leav<strong>in</strong>g beh<strong>in</strong>d only desolation, he must beruthlessly curbed; but, <strong>in</strong> his f<strong>in</strong>er hour, patiently creat<strong>in</strong>g beautyout <strong>of</strong> nature's wilderness, let us applaud his craftsmanship, forsurely there is, <strong>in</strong> this heritage <strong>of</strong> ours, much that speaks <strong>of</strong> thediv<strong>in</strong>e.
PILLAR ROCK — A FOOTNOTE TO HISTORYThe early climb<strong>in</strong>g history <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Rock</strong> has been dealt with <strong>in</strong> severalarticles <strong>in</strong> this Journal, notably <strong>in</strong> that by George Seatree, ' Rem<strong>in</strong>iscences<strong>of</strong> Early Lakel<strong>and</strong> Mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g' <strong>in</strong> 1910, <strong>and</strong> more comprehensively,by R. S. T. Chorley <strong>in</strong> ' Some Notes on Pillar History ' <strong>in</strong> 1926.We recently came across an article entitled ' A Tourist's Notes on theSurface-Geology <strong>of</strong> the Lake District,' by D. Mack<strong>in</strong>tosh <strong>in</strong> theGeological Magaz<strong>in</strong>e <strong>of</strong> July, 1865. In a paragraph on the Pillar <strong>Rock</strong>the author gives some <strong>in</strong>formation which he had gleaned about the earlyascents, <strong>and</strong> although this does not add much to the accepted accounts, theextract repr<strong>in</strong>ted below, with the accompany<strong>in</strong>g woodcut, may be <strong>of</strong> someTHE PILLAR ROCK. AS this apparently old sea-coast rock isscarcely noticed <strong>in</strong> guide-books, <strong>and</strong> its situation misstated <strong>in</strong> acostly work on the Lake-country lately published, perhaps someaccount <strong>of</strong> it may be not unacceptable to the readers <strong>of</strong> thisMagaz<strong>in</strong>e.(There follows a brief summary <strong>of</strong> the geological history <strong>of</strong>the rock as <strong>in</strong>terpreted by the author).The geological tourist who . . . may wish to climb to thetop <strong>of</strong> the Pillar <strong>Rock</strong>, will perhaps pardon me for digress<strong>in</strong>gfrom the ma<strong>in</strong> subject, <strong>in</strong> conclusion, by giv<strong>in</strong>g a history <strong>of</strong> thevery difficult <strong>and</strong> dangerous ascents which have already beenachieved. This, after several months' <strong>in</strong>quiry, I was fortunate toprocure from Mr. Whitehead, Infirmary Surgeon, Whitehaven.On September 24, 18<strong>50</strong>, Mr. Whitehead ascended, <strong>and</strong> foundtwo slips <strong>of</strong> paper <strong>in</strong> a g<strong>in</strong>ger-beer bottle, with the follow<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>scriptions:—'Lieut. Wilson, R.N., Troutbeck, ascended thePillar, May 6, 1848, <strong>and</strong> left this bottle as a momento <strong>of</strong> thesame.'—' Charles A. C. Baumgartner, August 24, 18<strong>50</strong>.Cambridge.'Mr. Whitehead afterwards ascended on May 24, 1853. Theg<strong>in</strong>ger-beer bottle left by Lieut. Wilson was still there, but thepapers were gone, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> their place a nest <strong>of</strong> black beetles!These were dislodged <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> their place a piece <strong>of</strong> paper was put<strong>in</strong> the bottle with ' God save the Queen ' written on it.Charles William Hartley, a young man from Bradford,Yorkshire, ascended Friday, Mav 24, <strong>and</strong> Monday, May 27,1861.
PILLAR ROCK—A FOOTNOTE TO HISTORY 333Mr. Whitehead a third time ascended, August 27, 1861, <strong>and</strong>found the paper left by Mr. Hartley.So far on the undoubted authority <strong>of</strong> Mr. Whitehead. I havebeen <strong>in</strong>formed that the Rev. Mr. Webster, late Curate <strong>of</strong>Keswick, has s<strong>in</strong>ce ascended.The Pillar <strong>Rock</strong>, Eanerdale. (From a Sketch by Mr. Whitehead.)(Reproduced with permission from Geological Magaz<strong>in</strong>e, 1865)Note.—In the Journal articles referred to the date <strong>of</strong> C. H. Hartley'sascent is given as 18<strong>50</strong>, whereas it will be noted that Whitehead did notmention this, but gave the precise dates <strong>of</strong> two ascents <strong>in</strong> 1861, when hedescribes Hartley as ' a young man.' The ascent attributed to Mr.Webster does not seem to have been recorded elsewhere.The ' costly work' to which Mack<strong>in</strong>tosh refers would seem to beThe Lake Country by E. Lynn L<strong>in</strong>ton, published <strong>in</strong> 1864. It is illustrated
334 PILLAR ROCK A FOOTNOTE TO HISTORYby the author's husb<strong>and</strong>, W. J. L<strong>in</strong>ton. At this time the L<strong>in</strong>tons wereliv<strong>in</strong>g at Brantwood, which they sold to Rusk<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1871.In the book there are several references to ' the Pillar ' as a feature <strong>of</strong>the distant view, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> a chapter on Calder Abbey, Egremont <strong>and</strong>Ennerdale there is this passage:—' At the head <strong>of</strong> the dale st<strong>and</strong>s the Pillar, the steepest <strong>and</strong> craggiest<strong>of</strong> all the mounta<strong>in</strong>s, till one thous<strong>and</strong> eight hundred <strong>and</strong> twenty-sixdeemed the English Jungfrau, our maiden mounta<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>accessible, but nowown<strong>in</strong>g to nearly a dozen conquerors; each traveller who has actuallyreached the top writ<strong>in</strong>g his name on a slip <strong>of</strong> paper which he places <strong>in</strong>a bottle left <strong>in</strong> the crevice <strong>of</strong> a rock for the purpose. So at least goesthe story, which we could not verify by personal observation. It is amagnificent-look<strong>in</strong>g mounta<strong>in</strong>, the crown<strong>in</strong>g rock, a great grey striatedcolumn which fires all one's ambition to surmount.'Neither Pillar <strong>Fell</strong> or <strong>Rock</strong> can strictly be described as be<strong>in</strong>g at thehead <strong>of</strong> Ennerdale, but probably the misstatement which upset Mack<strong>in</strong>toshis the obvious confusion <strong>in</strong> the relationship <strong>of</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> the <strong>Rock</strong>,which seems to <strong>in</strong>dicate that Mrs. L<strong>in</strong>ton was not very familiar witheither.MARDALE GREEN. The illustration fac<strong>in</strong>g page 323 is reproducedfrom an engrav<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a book entitled Westmorl<strong>and</strong>, Cumberl<strong>and</strong>,Durham <strong>and</strong> Northumberl<strong>and</strong>, by Thomas Rose, with draw<strong>in</strong>gs byT. Allom <strong>and</strong> G. Picker<strong>in</strong>g, 1832. The author describes Mardale Greenas ' a fertile <strong>and</strong> beautiful spot <strong>in</strong> the valley <strong>of</strong> Mardale, distant about amile <strong>and</strong> a half from the lake <strong>of</strong> Haweswater. Few dwell<strong>in</strong>gs are metwith <strong>in</strong> this or any other part <strong>of</strong> the vale; but ample accommodation forthe tourist is provided at the White Bull Hotel on the Green. The Chapel<strong>of</strong> Mardale st<strong>and</strong>s on an em<strong>in</strong>ence, one mile south <strong>of</strong> the lake, <strong>in</strong> a beautifullypicturesque situation, surrounded by l<strong>of</strong>ty mounta<strong>in</strong>s <strong>and</strong> fells.'Could Thomas Rose <strong>and</strong> Thomas Allom re-visit Mardale today, theywould f<strong>in</strong>d it difficult to discover the whereabouts <strong>of</strong> the Green — thephotograph fac<strong>in</strong>g page 338 looks over the site towards the head <strong>of</strong> thedale, the opposite direction to that <strong>in</strong> Allom's draw<strong>in</strong>g — but they wouldf<strong>in</strong>d even more ' ample accommodation' not very far away.
A NOTE ON THE ALAN CRAIG PHOTOGRAPHSWhen giv<strong>in</strong>g prelim<strong>in</strong>ary thought to the illustrations for this Journalthe Custodian <strong>of</strong> Lantern Slides <strong>in</strong>formed me that he had a number <strong>of</strong>negatives, ma<strong>in</strong>ly <strong>of</strong> groups, taken by the late Alan Craig, which had beengiven to the Club many years ago by Mrs. Craig. He suggested that some<strong>of</strong> these might be <strong>of</strong> sufficient <strong>in</strong>terest to reproduce, <strong>and</strong> when I receivedpr<strong>in</strong>ts from him I fully agreed. The Club is much <strong>in</strong>debted to Mrs. Craigfor her gift. A number <strong>of</strong> these photographs will be found betweenpages 236 <strong>and</strong> 253, <strong>and</strong>, with one exception, none <strong>of</strong> them have beenpr<strong>in</strong>ted before.In the first few numbers <strong>of</strong> the Journal there were several picturestaken at meets, all by Alan Craig, <strong>and</strong> it is thought that some notes onthese, as well as those now reproduced, may be <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>terest.The earliest group was taken <strong>in</strong> July, 1907, at a meet at the Sun Hotel,Coniston, <strong>and</strong> is <strong>in</strong>cluded amongst ' Amateur Photographs' <strong>in</strong> No. 1Journal. There are ten people <strong>in</strong> the picture <strong>and</strong> the names are given—George Seatree <strong>and</strong> Mrs. Seatree, Edward Scantlebury, S. H. Gordon,Charles Grayson, F. B. Kershaw, G. C. Turner, C. H. Oliverson, H. B.Lyon <strong>and</strong> Andrew Thompson. In No. 2 Journal there is a group takena year later at another Coniston meet. In this aga<strong>in</strong> there are ten people,<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Ashley Abraham, his father (G. P. Abraham) <strong>and</strong> Alan Craighimself. Among the negatives is another version <strong>in</strong> which an unidentifiedmember has taken Craig's place. This was quite a frequent practice <strong>of</strong> his,as will be seen later.No photograph seems to have been taken at the first Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner; atany rate it was not pr<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> the Journal. But <strong>in</strong> No. 3 there is a groupdescribed as ' The House Party, General Meet<strong>in</strong>g, Sun Hotel, Coniston,Nov. 22nd, 1908.' Not only is it <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>terest as the first <strong>of</strong> its k<strong>in</strong>d, but italso <strong>in</strong>cludes all the five ' foundation members ' <strong>and</strong> is the only photographwe have found that does this. It is reproduced <strong>in</strong> this issue fromthe orig<strong>in</strong>al negative, but a larger part <strong>of</strong> this has been used <strong>in</strong> mak<strong>in</strong>gthe block, so as to show the background <strong>of</strong> fells beyond the Church Beck,with the stream descend<strong>in</strong>g from the Red Dell seen <strong>in</strong> the distancethrough the trees. Fortunately the picture <strong>in</strong> the 1909 Journal is providedwith a key to the names, so that we have been able to pr<strong>in</strong>t these. It isrecorded <strong>of</strong> this meet that:—' Sunday morn<strong>in</strong>g broke amidst wild gusts <strong>and</strong> showers <strong>of</strong> heavyra<strong>in</strong>. After the house party had been photographed, a start was madefor Goats Water <strong>and</strong> Doe Crags across the gale-swept slopes <strong>of</strong> ConistonOld Man. On near<strong>in</strong>g the tarn the w<strong>in</strong>d blew down the wild " corrie "with tremendous velocity, lift<strong>in</strong>g vast sheets <strong>of</strong> water from the tarnhundreds <strong>of</strong> feet <strong>in</strong>to the air, <strong>and</strong> almost carry<strong>in</strong>g pedestrians <strong>of</strong>f theirfeet. Some <strong>of</strong> the party sought shelter beh<strong>in</strong>d the crags or <strong>in</strong> quarries<strong>and</strong> were ultimately driven back to the Hotel. The hardier <strong>and</strong> keenerspirits braved the tempest <strong>and</strong> climbed one or other <strong>of</strong> the f<strong>in</strong>e gullies onDoe Crags or the neighbour<strong>in</strong>g heights.'Under these conditions it is remarkable that the photograph is such agood one.Craig aga<strong>in</strong> acted as photographer at the 3rd Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner, also atConiston, <strong>in</strong> (November, 1909, <strong>and</strong> the picture, which has thirty-n<strong>in</strong>epeople <strong>in</strong> it, all men, was <strong>in</strong> the Journal the follow<strong>in</strong>g year.H
336 A NOTE ON THE ALAN CRAIG PHOTOGRAPHSIn the next Journal (1911) there is a picture (this time taken by G. P.Abraham & Sons) <strong>of</strong> the ' House Party ' at the 4th Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner atConiston, which is described as hav<strong>in</strong>g ' a unique feature <strong>in</strong> climb<strong>in</strong>gannals—the presence <strong>of</strong> ladies at the Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>of</strong> a British Climb<strong>in</strong>gClub.' There are seventeen <strong>of</strong> them <strong>in</strong> the party, which totals 78.With the exception <strong>of</strong> the Com<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Age D<strong>in</strong>ner, this was the lastd<strong>in</strong>ner group to be published, no doubt ow<strong>in</strong>g to the <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>g numberspresent. (Those who have photographed relatively small meets know howdifficult it is to get twenty people together for the purpose, let alone 100!).The group at W<strong>in</strong>dermere Hydro <strong>in</strong> 1927 must have conta<strong>in</strong>ed quite 1<strong>50</strong>people—they are so tightly packed that an exact count would be difficult.Com<strong>in</strong>g back to the photographs pr<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> this issue, there are twoversions (Craig <strong>and</strong> Grayson tak<strong>in</strong>g turns with the camera) <strong>of</strong> the smallgroup at the Sun, <strong>and</strong> also <strong>of</strong> that at Wasdale Head. The latter was takenat Row Head, but the house <strong>in</strong> the picture was rebuilt <strong>in</strong> 1927. R.Brotherton, Warden <strong>of</strong> Brackenclose, k<strong>in</strong>dly made enquiries which led tothis <strong>in</strong>formation be<strong>in</strong>g obta<strong>in</strong>ed.In the Middlefell Farm picture the house looks much as it does today.The location <strong>of</strong> the one taken on the fellside presented a difficulty, butJ. B. Wilton states that he photographed the party at the same time, <strong>and</strong>that it was on the way to Gimmer. There seems no doubt that these twophotographs were taken at the same meet, those at the farm be<strong>in</strong>g jo<strong>in</strong>edlater by Millican Dalton <strong>and</strong> T. J. Rennison. The latter was not a member<strong>of</strong> the Club; he was killed a year or two later when descend<strong>in</strong>g Eagle'sNest Ridge, an account <strong>of</strong> the accident be<strong>in</strong>g given <strong>in</strong> the 1909 Journal.F<strong>in</strong>ally there is the picture we have titled ' W<strong>in</strong>ter Sports on GoatsWater.' The day on which the photograph was taken—it must have beenquite early <strong>in</strong> 1907—is amus<strong>in</strong>gly described by Scantlebury <strong>in</strong> an articleon ' Club History ' <strong>in</strong> the 1927 Journal. He <strong>and</strong> his friends were enterta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gGeorge Seatree as a prospective member <strong>of</strong> the Club, <strong>and</strong> herelates how, after some skat<strong>in</strong>g, ' we formed <strong>in</strong> the snow surface <strong>of</strong> thefrozen tarn, <strong>in</strong> huge letters <strong>of</strong> about ten feet square each, the words :" THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB " which stretched rightalong the tarn.'When I received the photographs (<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g several not reproducedhere) it was obvious that their <strong>in</strong>terest would be much enhanced if namescould be given to as many as possible <strong>of</strong> those portrayed, <strong>and</strong> if the place<strong>and</strong> time at which they were taken could be ascerta<strong>in</strong>ed. The last cannotbe stated with certa<strong>in</strong>ty <strong>in</strong> every case, but it seems probable that most weretaken <strong>in</strong> 1907, or 1908 at latest. For help <strong>in</strong> the identification <strong>of</strong> those<strong>in</strong> the groups I am grateful to many members <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g T. C. Ormiston-Chant, J. B. Wilton, J. Stables, T. R. Burnett, W.' A. Woodsend, J.Coulton <strong>and</strong> J. C. Appleyard. For the Wasdale Head group Mrs. T.Wilson (formerly Miss J. Seatree) has been most helpful, <strong>and</strong> Messrs.E. E. Roberts <strong>and</strong> T. Williamson <strong>of</strong> the Y.R.C. k<strong>in</strong>dly exam<strong>in</strong>ed the pr<strong>in</strong>t<strong>and</strong> were able to name three former members <strong>of</strong> that Club who appearon it.If any member can identify the one or two people whose names are notgiven on the plates, or considers that there are any cases <strong>of</strong> mistakenidentity, I should be very glad to hear from them, so that the matter canbe rectified <strong>in</strong> the next Journal.W.G.S.
THE YEAR WITH THE CLUBMurielFilesIt is a pity that the year described <strong>in</strong> the Jubilee Journal shouldnot be the Jubilee year, but it is <strong>in</strong>evitable, as the Journal will be<strong>in</strong> the press before the major meets <strong>of</strong> <strong>1956</strong> have taken place. Themore commonplace year, 1954-55, began at Birkness <strong>in</strong>November with one <strong>of</strong> the very few f<strong>in</strong>e week-ends <strong>in</strong> anabnormally wet season. The good weather does not seem tohave tempted the meet (number<strong>in</strong>g a dozen) on to the crags, butthey enjoyed a pleasant walk over Mellbreak on the Sunday.In accordance with now well-established custom, New <strong>Year</strong>,1955, was celebrated <strong>in</strong> Langdale. The meet, which was aspopular as ever, with the huts <strong>and</strong> the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotelfull, owed much <strong>of</strong> its success to the unflagg<strong>in</strong>g efforts <strong>of</strong> theproprietors <strong>and</strong> staff <strong>of</strong> the hotel to ensure our well-be<strong>in</strong>g. Theseculm<strong>in</strong>ated <strong>in</strong> the sumptuous New <strong>Year</strong> D<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>and</strong> theassociated festivities. The post-pr<strong>and</strong>ial s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Club songs(enlivened by duets from Harry Spilsbury <strong>and</strong> Howard Somervell)was <strong>in</strong>terrupted at midnight by the noisy arrival <strong>of</strong> the<strong>in</strong>fant 1955, complete with all the usual accoutrements, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>ga dummy. On the discovery <strong>of</strong> our lately elected Presidentbeneath this disguise, the old President, symbolis<strong>in</strong>g 1954, wasejected, not without a show <strong>of</strong> resistance, by some <strong>of</strong> the strongermembers. Colour slide shows at the O.D.G. provided enterta<strong>in</strong>menton the two follow<strong>in</strong>g; even<strong>in</strong>gs. John <strong>and</strong> Ronnie Jacksonshowed their excellent pictures <strong>of</strong> the Yeti expedition <strong>and</strong> theKanchenjunga reconnaissance respectively, <strong>and</strong> several othermembers gave <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> varied examples <strong>of</strong> their work <strong>in</strong>this branch <strong>of</strong> photography. On New <strong>Year</strong>'s Day the whole meetsqueezed <strong>in</strong>to Raw Head Barn at tea-time <strong>and</strong> somehow or othereveryone managed to get a slice <strong>of</strong> the magnificent New <strong>Year</strong>cake made for the second year <strong>in</strong> succession by Edward <strong>and</strong> PhilWormell. A pleasant <strong>in</strong>novation was the return tea-party whichwas given at the hotel by the President <strong>and</strong> Vice-Presidents thefollow<strong>in</strong>g day.Social events at the New <strong>Year</strong> seem rather to overshadow theprimary activity <strong>of</strong> the Club, but although the weather was notvery <strong>in</strong>spir<strong>in</strong>g, be<strong>in</strong>g cold yet without snow, it was not badenough to keep people <strong>in</strong>, <strong>and</strong> one large party, walk<strong>in</strong>g overBlencathra, had quite an exhilarat<strong>in</strong>g time on Sharp Edge, whichwas coated with verglas. Another walk<strong>in</strong>g party, attracted by
338 THE YEAR WITH THE CLUBthe sight <strong>of</strong> smoke ris<strong>in</strong>g near Stickle Tarn, enjoyed animpromptu picnic. So absorbed were two <strong>of</strong> our most reveredmembers <strong>in</strong> watch<strong>in</strong>g their rival cook<strong>in</strong>g pots (one was over thetraditional wood fire, but, regrettably, the other was on a spiritstove) that they were quite unaware <strong>of</strong> the approach <strong>of</strong> theirunexpected guests, who, however, were given a hearty welcomeas soon as they made their presence known.The February meet at the Salv<strong>in</strong>g House was held <strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>tryconditions. On Saturday both the snow <strong>and</strong> the weather wereperfect, but unfortunately most people did not arrive <strong>in</strong> time toenjoy the excellent ski<strong>in</strong>g on Skiddaw. On Sunday <strong>in</strong> less goodweather some went ski<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> others walked on Skiddaw orHelvellyn.The fifteen fortunate members <strong>and</strong> guests who met at theBurnmoor Inn <strong>in</strong> March enjoyed two days <strong>of</strong> un<strong>in</strong>terrupted sunsh<strong>in</strong>e.On Saturday morn<strong>in</strong>g everyone set <strong>of</strong>f for Scafell <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>the even<strong>in</strong>g Jack Diamond showed a variety <strong>of</strong> slides on the LakeDistrict, the most popular, apparently, be<strong>in</strong>g those which demonstratedhow not to skate. The Assistant Warden <strong>of</strong> Brackencloseled an <strong>in</strong>trepid party over from Wasdale for the show, <strong>and</strong> thesetough people, undaunted by hav<strong>in</strong>g lost their way on the outwardjourney, showed their mettle by refus<strong>in</strong>g to make the returnjourney by car. On Sunday a small party climbed on EskButtress, but the majority preferred the walk over Harter <strong>Fell</strong>.At Easter, unfortunately, the weather was <strong>in</strong>different. Onmost days it was either wet or cloudy on the tops, but, by contrast,climb<strong>in</strong>g on the valley crags was really pleasant. There weremeets at all the huts, as usual, but Birkness was the most popular<strong>and</strong> attracted, <strong>in</strong> addition to our own members <strong>and</strong> guests, astrong Climbers' Club cont<strong>in</strong>gent. It must not, <strong>of</strong> course, beassumed that this was the reason for the considerable climb<strong>in</strong>gactivity on Pillar, the Grey Crags <strong>and</strong> Eagle Crag. The only<strong>in</strong>jury reported was a dislocated elbow, the result, ratherironically, <strong>of</strong> tree-climb<strong>in</strong>g, but after treatment <strong>in</strong> hospital thevictim was able to climb rocks with his arm <strong>in</strong> a sl<strong>in</strong>g. TheBrackenclose party seems to have been more discouraged by theweather than the enthusiasts at Birkness although most <strong>of</strong> themdid some climb<strong>in</strong>g. Great delight was caused by the arrival <strong>of</strong>the London Section rug, <strong>and</strong> the noble work it representedaroused universal admiration. There is no ..record <strong>of</strong> achievementfrom Raw Head although the meet was a large one, but at
Muriel Files 339the Salv<strong>in</strong>g House, <strong>in</strong> spite <strong>of</strong> small numbers, activity was great,<strong>and</strong> this may not have been unconnected with the presence there<strong>of</strong> the pioneer <strong>of</strong> the Borrowdale climbs.The weather at Whit could not have been better <strong>and</strong> everyonemade the most <strong>of</strong> it. The attendance at the meet was good, theSalv<strong>in</strong>g House be<strong>in</strong>g full, with an overflow at High House. OnSaturday the majority went to Scafell but the m<strong>in</strong>ority had a veryenjoyable day on M<strong>in</strong>ers' Crag. On Sunday the ma<strong>in</strong> groupwalked over to Boat Howe where some climbed rocks <strong>and</strong> otherssunned themselves, <strong>and</strong> on Monday most <strong>of</strong> the crags <strong>in</strong> CombeGhyll were occupied by <strong>Fell</strong> & <strong>Rock</strong> parties. It was here thatwe said goodbye to the President, who was <strong>of</strong>f to India thefollow<strong>in</strong>g day for n<strong>in</strong>e months. A few fortunate people whohad one more day's holiday climbed on the Napes on WhitTuesday <strong>and</strong> had not long been back at base when word came<strong>of</strong> an accident on Gable Crag. All those who were not due toreturn home that night turned out with the Keswick <strong>and</strong> R.A.F.Mounta<strong>in</strong> Rescue teams, return<strong>in</strong>g to Honister shordy beforemidnight with the stretcher, whose occupant (himself a member<strong>of</strong> the Keswick Mounta<strong>in</strong> Rescue) was suffer<strong>in</strong>g from a badlycrushed arm.In June at Gateside there was a successful revival <strong>of</strong> theConiston Meet under the leadership <strong>of</strong> Jack Diamond. OnSaturday the advance guard walked over the Fairfield group <strong>of</strong>fells <strong>and</strong> on Sunday the full meet, twenty strong, separated <strong>in</strong>totwo parties, some to climb on Dow <strong>and</strong> others to walk over theConiston <strong>Fell</strong>s.For a number <strong>of</strong> years mystery has surrounded the Welshmeet. It has regularly been announced on the meet card <strong>and</strong> asregularly, apart from occasional rumours, noth<strong>in</strong>g more has beenheard <strong>of</strong> it. This year it has come right out <strong>in</strong>to the open withan excellent report from the Deputy Leader. Thirteen members<strong>and</strong> guests stayed at Glan Dena for August Bank Holiday weekend<strong>and</strong> fully exploited the exceptionally f<strong>in</strong>e weather. Climb<strong>in</strong>gon Tryfan <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> Cwm Idwal <strong>and</strong> bath<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Llyn Ogwen wereequally popular, but as complementary <strong>and</strong> not as alternativepursuits. On Sunday the whole meet went to Tryfan <strong>and</strong> onreach<strong>in</strong>g the North Buttress the ma<strong>in</strong> party, which had advancedat a normal pace, were surprised to see no sign on their proposedroute <strong>of</strong> the two Alfs. The speed seemed remarkable even forthese two <strong>and</strong> all were gaz<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>credulously at the crag when the
340 THE YEAR WITH THE CLUBmiss<strong>in</strong>g pair came <strong>in</strong>to sight return<strong>in</strong>g down Heather Terrace.It seemed that Greg, still th<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> terms <strong>of</strong> the Himalayahad led his companion past all the ma<strong>in</strong> buttresses, dismiss<strong>in</strong>gthem as ' scrambl<strong>in</strong>g areas,' <strong>and</strong> they had reached Bwlch Tryfanbefore realis<strong>in</strong>g that they would have to return to the first' scrambl<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>in</strong>e ' to start Grooved Arete.The f<strong>in</strong>e weather did not manage to hold out for the noviceswho met (with their <strong>in</strong>structors) at Raw Head early <strong>in</strong>September, but fortunately a number <strong>of</strong> them were made <strong>of</strong> sternstuff <strong>and</strong> apparently delighted <strong>in</strong> swimm<strong>in</strong>g up Great Gully onPavey Ark. It was a very enjoyable week-end <strong>and</strong> showed awelcome revival <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> the Novices' Meet, for which therehas recently been no great enthusiasm.N<strong>in</strong>eteen members <strong>and</strong> prospective members met at theBrotherswater Hotel on the second Sunday <strong>in</strong> October. Amongstthe latter was the pioneer <strong>of</strong> most <strong>of</strong> the Deepdale climbs <strong>and</strong> itwas unfortunate that the weather was not good enough to enablethe meet to see someth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the climb<strong>in</strong>g at Scrubby Crag <strong>and</strong>Greenhow End under his direction. Nevertheless, everyoneenjoyed fell walk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the mist on the circuits <strong>of</strong> Dovedale,Deepdale <strong>and</strong> Grisedale. Incidentally, some people seemeduncerta<strong>in</strong> which circuit they had made, but all eventuallyassembled at the hotel to fortify themselves for the journey homewith an excellent tea.The four hut ma<strong>in</strong>tenance meets were well attended. At RawHead the previous high record was broken, a possible contributoryfactor be<strong>in</strong>g that one party, quite unaware <strong>of</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong>tenancemeet, arrived for a long-planned climb<strong>in</strong>g week-end,greatly to the delight <strong>of</strong> the genu<strong>in</strong>e cleaners. However, they setto work with a will <strong>and</strong> made a strong addition to the pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g<strong>and</strong> white-wash<strong>in</strong>g cont<strong>in</strong>gent. One <strong>of</strong> our more powerfulmembers did some <strong>of</strong> the prelim<strong>in</strong>ary clear<strong>in</strong>g for the new carpark which was completed later <strong>in</strong> the summer, thanks to theHut Wardens, Hut <strong>and</strong> Meets Secretary <strong>and</strong> the Old Faithfulswho have put <strong>in</strong> much hard work at the huts quite apart fromthe <strong>of</strong>ficial ma<strong>in</strong>tenance meets. The new stove at Birkness is,perhaps, the chief monument to their <strong>in</strong>dustry. Indeed, theconstant conscientious attention to Club property by these <strong>of</strong>ficers<strong>and</strong> their helpers, together with the good attendance at thema<strong>in</strong>tenance meets is ample evidence <strong>of</strong> the vigour <strong>of</strong> our Clublife.
THE FORT WILLIAM MEET, MAY, 1955W. G. StevensThis meet was held under conditions very different <strong>in</strong> onerespect from those at Fort William <strong>in</strong> 1948. In that year petrolsupplies had reached rock-bottom, <strong>and</strong> the small party who metat the Gr<strong>and</strong> Hotel resorted to bus, tra<strong>in</strong>, a taxi <strong>and</strong>, on oneoccasion, bicycles, when transport was required. In 1955 thosewho had brought cars placed them unreservedly at the disposal<strong>of</strong> the whole party. Our headquarters this time was theAlex<strong>and</strong>ra Hotel; there were no campers, but I. B. Meldrumwas <strong>in</strong> his caravan not far away. Compared with the usual placesat which the Scottish meets have been held, our surround<strong>in</strong>gswere dist<strong>in</strong>ctly urban, but on occasion it is h<strong>and</strong>y not to have togo ten miles to the nearest shop. The amenities <strong>in</strong>side the hotelleft noth<strong>in</strong>g to be desired.The party <strong>in</strong>cluded a number <strong>of</strong> the hardened participants atthese meets, but there were more newcomers than usual, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>gthe President, who received a warm welcome as leader. Theabsence <strong>of</strong> the ' conflagrationalist ' section (Dr. Burnett <strong>and</strong> theAppleyards) was much regretted, but some other membersproved adequate substitutes <strong>in</strong> the brew<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> tea. The earlierpart <strong>of</strong> the meet was notable for the unity <strong>of</strong> the party, <strong>in</strong> thateach day everyone went <strong>in</strong> the same general direction, <strong>and</strong> thenvaried their activities accord<strong>in</strong>g to energy or <strong>in</strong>cl<strong>in</strong>ation. Thuson the first day all who had then arrived went up Glen Nevis bycar to Poldhu, <strong>and</strong> from there walked up to the ru<strong>in</strong>ed Steallcottage. A few <strong>of</strong> the more active went on to reach the top <strong>of</strong>Aonach Beag, but a fierce blizzard frustrated their <strong>in</strong>tention <strong>of</strong>go<strong>in</strong>g on to Aonach Mor — one experienced member describedthe conditions as the worst he had encountered <strong>in</strong> Brita<strong>in</strong> — <strong>and</strong>they prudently decided to return by the way they had come.Next day Glenf<strong>in</strong>nan <strong>and</strong> beyond was the general objective.Loch Eil looked enchant<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the morn<strong>in</strong>g sun, its glassy surfacereflect<strong>in</strong>g the hills on the far shore <strong>in</strong> the most delicate colours.At or near Glenf<strong>in</strong>nan the party split <strong>in</strong>to three sections, onemak<strong>in</strong>g up Glen Dubh Lighe towards the Streaps, another upGlen F<strong>in</strong>nan to Sgurr Thuilm, while Lawson Cook drove onwith the ladies, who wanted to visit Morar <strong>and</strong> bask on its whites<strong>and</strong>s. The President had been given a glow<strong>in</strong>g account <strong>of</strong> thewonderful view to be had from Sgurr Thuilm, but alas, whenthe summit was reached after much toil, driv<strong>in</strong>g mist <strong>and</strong> snowblotted everyth<strong>in</strong>g out, <strong>and</strong> plans for extend<strong>in</strong>g the walk overSgurr nan Coireachan had to be ab<strong>and</strong>oned, <strong>and</strong> a descent made
342 THE FORT WILLIAM MEET, MAY, 1 9 5 5without delay. The Streaps party had no better luck, return<strong>in</strong>gafter they had reached the first top <strong>in</strong>stead <strong>of</strong> complet<strong>in</strong>g theridge. The would-be sunbathers, meet<strong>in</strong>g ra<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> snow, hadquickly turned <strong>and</strong> headed for the fireside.On that Sunday even<strong>in</strong>g the snow lay several <strong>in</strong>ches deep <strong>in</strong>the streets <strong>of</strong> Fort William, but <strong>in</strong> the morn<strong>in</strong>g most <strong>of</strong> it hadgone, though the Ben was well covered. After the rigours <strong>of</strong> theprevious days, the suggestion <strong>of</strong> a low-level expedition waswelcomed. A request from T.R.B. that possible caravan sitesat Ardtoe, <strong>in</strong> Ardnamurchan, should be <strong>in</strong>spected on his behalfdur<strong>in</strong>g the meet gave an admirable excuse <strong>of</strong> which the wholeparty took advantage. After cross<strong>in</strong>g Corran Ferry <strong>and</strong> enjoy<strong>in</strong>ga delightful run through Glen Tarbert, Strontian <strong>and</strong> Acharacle,Ardtoe was reached <strong>in</strong> time for lunch <strong>in</strong> a small rocky bay beyondthe hamlet. Although no really good caravan sites could bediscovered, several pleasant hours were spent w<strong>and</strong>er<strong>in</strong>g aboutamongst the m<strong>in</strong>iature rocky hills which border this remotestretch <strong>of</strong> coast. Across the water, Skye was snow-covered alongthe whole length <strong>of</strong> the ridge.After this day's <strong>in</strong>terlude a return was made to someth<strong>in</strong>gmore strenuous. Two small cont<strong>in</strong>gents did the Ben Nevis—Cam Mor Dcarg traverse <strong>in</strong> opposite directions, meet<strong>in</strong>g on thearete. Another party walked up the Allt a' Mhuil<strong>in</strong>n to theC.I.C. hut, still above the snow l<strong>in</strong>e, <strong>and</strong> enjoyed magnificentclose-up views <strong>of</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>try buttresses <strong>and</strong> gullies. The President,nurs<strong>in</strong>g a damaged knee, got well up the slopes <strong>of</strong> Cam BeagDearg <strong>and</strong> spent the day <strong>in</strong> pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g, be<strong>in</strong>g last down <strong>and</strong>return<strong>in</strong>g from the Distillery <strong>in</strong> a fish van, for lack <strong>of</strong> othertransport.A dull <strong>and</strong> threaten<strong>in</strong>g morn<strong>in</strong>g followed, but the sky lookedclearer towards the west, so that Ardgour seemed a gooddirection <strong>in</strong> which to go, a prediction the day amply justified.Aga<strong>in</strong> a convoy <strong>of</strong> cars crossed Corran Ferry, rather a protractedoperation, <strong>and</strong> assembled at the foot <strong>of</strong> Coir an Iubhair, thebeautiful little glen lead<strong>in</strong>g to the north side <strong>of</strong> Garbh Bhe<strong>in</strong>n.Some just strolled up to the head <strong>of</strong> the glen or beyond, but twoparties reached the top, R. <strong>and</strong> D. Cook, Shaw, Side, Webb <strong>and</strong>Vaughan by way <strong>of</strong> the Great Ridge (this, it appears, be<strong>in</strong>g theonly rock-climb done dur<strong>in</strong>g the meet) <strong>and</strong> several others by thesteepish grass <strong>and</strong> scree gully to the left <strong>of</strong> the crags. These lasthad hardly settled down by the cairn to enjoy the sun <strong>and</strong> acrystal-clear view, when Dick Cook's head popped up over the
W. G. Stevens 343rocks, he be<strong>in</strong>g the leader <strong>of</strong> the first rope. Presently all weremak<strong>in</strong>g down the south-east ridge to the cars <strong>and</strong> tea, climbers<strong>and</strong> walkers alike delighted with Garbh Bhe<strong>in</strong>n <strong>and</strong> itssurround<strong>in</strong>gs.Nearly a week had gone by without a visit to Mamore Forest,<strong>and</strong> on Thursday almost the whole party aga<strong>in</strong> went to Poldhu,<strong>and</strong> then took the stalkers' path up Coire a' Mhusga<strong>in</strong>. Thescene was <strong>in</strong> strik<strong>in</strong>g contrast to the brown <strong>and</strong> green hills <strong>of</strong>Ardgour. Here the snow-l<strong>in</strong>e was reached at about 2,000 feet,<strong>and</strong> a heavy snow shower was encountered just below the ma<strong>in</strong>ridge. It was then decided to make for Stob Ban, rather thanSgurr a' Mhaim, <strong>and</strong> about a dozen members, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g thePresident, gathered on the summit, now <strong>in</strong> sparkl<strong>in</strong>g sunsh<strong>in</strong>e.The ridge was followed westward to Mullach nan Coirean, <strong>and</strong>from there down towards Poldhu, above which the forestryplantations caused some tribulation.The ' united front' now broke up, <strong>and</strong> on the two rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>gf<strong>in</strong>e days there was widely spread activity. A small party went,at Webb's suggestion, to prospect the Glen Affric Hotel <strong>and</strong> itssurround<strong>in</strong>gs as a possible place for the <strong>1956</strong> meet. Dick <strong>and</strong>Gladys Cook climbed the Ben by the pony track, reached thesummit at 4 p.m. <strong>and</strong> were down two hours later. Two carswent to Morar (on different days), the occupants <strong>of</strong> one do<strong>in</strong>gsome antiquarian research at Borrodale—Pr<strong>in</strong>ce Charlie's Cave,<strong>and</strong> a very elusive ' vitrified fort.' Some aga<strong>in</strong> visited Glenf<strong>in</strong>nan,<strong>and</strong> reached the top <strong>of</strong> Be<strong>in</strong>n Odhar Mhor, anotherattractive mounta<strong>in</strong> just short <strong>of</strong> Munro stature, overlook<strong>in</strong>gLoch Shiel. Milligan <strong>and</strong> two companions sought new ground<strong>and</strong> climbed Fraochaidh, south <strong>of</strong> Ben Vair. F<strong>in</strong>ally thePresident with D. <strong>and</strong> R. Cook, Shaw, Side <strong>and</strong> Vaughan wentto Glencoe <strong>and</strong> made the traverse <strong>of</strong> the Aonach Eagach ridge <strong>in</strong>good snow conditions.The last day <strong>of</strong> the meet (Sunday) was hopelessly wet, <strong>and</strong>there is noth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> note to record. Up to then we had hadwonderful ' mounta<strong>in</strong> weather' so could not compla<strong>in</strong>. Itrema<strong>in</strong>s only to reiterate our thanks to Harry Ironfield for hiswork <strong>in</strong> mak<strong>in</strong>g the arrangements for so successful a meet.Members attend<strong>in</strong>g: F. L. Cook, R. Cook, Mrs. R. Cook, D. R. Cook,Miss M. Hicks, J. B. Meldrum, W. G. Milligan, T. H. G. Parker, H. R.Preston, Mrs. L. Pryor, R. Shaw, A. D. B. Side, Mrs. A. D. B. Side, T. H.Somervell, W. G. Stevens, H. H. Vaughan, G. H. Webb <strong>and</strong> R. T.Wilson.
CLIMBS OLD AND NEWPeter M<strong>of</strong>fatThere were so many new climbs last year, probably due to thedry summer, that it has not been possible to <strong>in</strong>clude some <strong>of</strong> theless important ones.WASDALESTAND CRAGEROS 120 ft. Very difficult. First ascent 21st April,1955. P. Ross, R. Scott, D. Wildridge. Starts 25feet to the left <strong>of</strong> South Face Route at the foot <strong>of</strong> a steep wall.(1) <strong>50</strong> feet. Pull out over the wall <strong>and</strong> follow the easier slab to alarge stance at the foot <strong>of</strong> a steep overhang<strong>in</strong>g wall. Step left<strong>and</strong> follow the gully to a block belay.(2) 70 feet. Climb the steep arete on the right to a delicate f<strong>in</strong>ish ona grass ledge.DEERSTALKER 170 feet. Severe. First ascent 21st April, 1955.P. Ross, D. Wildridge, R. Scott. Starts 10 feet to theright <strong>of</strong> South Face Route, below an obvious groove slant<strong>in</strong>g up to theright.(1) 70 feet. Follow the groove for 20 feet until it is possible to makea difficult move <strong>in</strong>to the upper groove, which is followed to apoor stance <strong>and</strong> no belay. (Piton.)(2) 100 feet. Step up to the right <strong>in</strong>to the steep groove which isclimbed by jamm<strong>in</strong>g to the first big foothold on the right wall.Step on to the left wall <strong>and</strong> climb straight up to the top on goodholds.KERN KNOTTSTHE CENOTAPH 120 feet. Very severe. First ascent 20th April,1955. P. Ross, R. Scott, D. Wildridge. Starts 15 feetto the right <strong>of</strong> Sepulchre up a large chimney.(1) 35 feet. Climb the chimney to the belay on Sepulchre.(2) 85 feet. The overhang<strong>in</strong>g groove is climbed to the large overhang,pass<strong>in</strong>g a smaller one on the left. A h<strong>and</strong>-hold is reachedon the right edge <strong>and</strong> a sw<strong>in</strong>g made <strong>in</strong>to the groove on the rightwhich is followed to the top.BORROWDALESHEPHERD'S CRAGVESPER 160 feet. Very severe. First ascent, 9th June, 1955.P. Ross, P. Greenwood (alternate leads). Starts onthe extreme left-h<strong>and</strong> side <strong>of</strong> the crag where the overhang<strong>in</strong>g base <strong>of</strong> thecrag peters out <strong>in</strong>to a rib. About 60 feet left <strong>of</strong> Brown Slab Wall.
Peter M<strong>of</strong>fat 345(1) 60 feet. Ascend the rib until a move right can be made below theoverhang. Cont<strong>in</strong>ue travers<strong>in</strong>g until a bulge stops progress.Step down <strong>and</strong> move round the corner on to a steep wall. Thescoop above <strong>and</strong> to the right is the next objective <strong>and</strong> can bereached by ascend<strong>in</strong>g the corner until a step right can be made<strong>in</strong>to the scoop; or by ascend<strong>in</strong>g directly up to the scoop. Cont<strong>in</strong>ueup the steep wall to a narrow ledge on the right. Tree<strong>and</strong> chipped flake belay.(2) 100 feet. Move right along the ledge, <strong>and</strong> up above an old oak.Climb the overhang on the left <strong>and</strong> cont<strong>in</strong>ue right to below abulg<strong>in</strong>g wall. Ascend the wall leftwards <strong>in</strong>to the steep groovewhich is climbed until easy rock leads to the top.ADAM 130 feet. Very severe. First ascent 30th August,1955. P. Ross, R. Wilk<strong>in</strong>son. Starts just to theright <strong>of</strong> Eve <strong>in</strong> a corner beh<strong>in</strong>d a tree.(1) 40 feet. Climb the short crack which leads to the belay on Eve.(2) go feet. Climb up to the right, then left up the groove or crackfor about 25 feet, then move right on to the overhang<strong>in</strong>g arete,then straight up a small slab to an overhang<strong>in</strong>g wall which isclimbed to the top.NORTH BUTTRESS 1<strong>50</strong> feet. Very severe. First recorded ascents 6thJune, 1954. P. J. Greenwood, E. Moll<strong>in</strong>son (SlabF<strong>in</strong>ish). P. J. Greenwood, D. Whillans, P. Whitwell (Direct F<strong>in</strong>ish).Starts at the corner <strong>of</strong> the buttress where a large flake <strong>of</strong> rock leans aga<strong>in</strong>stthe face.(1) 60 feet. Ascend the flake, <strong>and</strong> over the bulge. Cont<strong>in</strong>ue above untila short traverse to the left leads to a stance <strong>and</strong> belay low down.(2) 40 feet. The gangway to the right leads to a stance <strong>and</strong> belay onthe glacis above. (Piton needed.)(3) <strong>50</strong> feet. Move left <strong>and</strong> ascend the overhang<strong>in</strong>g groove with theaid <strong>of</strong> two pitons until easy climb<strong>in</strong>g leads to the top. SlabF<strong>in</strong>ish—From the belay move right <strong>and</strong> cross the slab under theoverhang until a long reach br<strong>in</strong>gs a ledge <strong>and</strong> tree belay tolight. Easier climb<strong>in</strong>g to the top.CENTRAL GIRDLE 215 feet. Very severe. First ascent 23rd August,1955. T. Marsden, J. Dowsett. Starts at the lowestpo<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> North Buttress. <strong>Rock</strong> needs care on the first pitch.(1) 65 feet. Up the rib for 45 feet, then traverse left to a grassy slab<strong>and</strong> round the corner to an uncomfortable stance. There is nobelay here, but 10 feet below is a belay on Eve.(2) 80 feet. The crack which slants upwards to the left, has an awkwardstart <strong>and</strong> a mantelshelf at the top. Cross the slab on theleft <strong>and</strong> round the corner to the junction <strong>of</strong> Eve <strong>and</strong> Ardus.(3) 25 feet. Pitch 3 <strong>of</strong> Ardus.(4) 4% feet. Follow the traverse across the steep slab <strong>and</strong> f<strong>in</strong>ish upthe f<strong>in</strong>al crack on Sl<strong>in</strong>gs.
346 CLIMBS OLD AND NEWBROWN CRAGS 285 feet. Very severe. First ascent 4th August,TRAVERSEJ 955- P. I. Greenwood, K. Pearce, T. Marsden.Starts at the extreme left-h<strong>and</strong> side <strong>of</strong> the crag wherethe overhang<strong>in</strong>g base peters out <strong>in</strong>to a rib. The difficulty is only ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>edon the first two pitches.(1) 60 feet. Ascend the rib <strong>and</strong> traverse right below the overhang.Step down <strong>and</strong> round a bulge on to the steep wall which isclimbed via a scoop to a small stance <strong>and</strong> belay on the right.(Pitch 1 <strong>of</strong> Vesper.)(2) 80 feet. Move right <strong>and</strong> upwards on to a heathery ledge belowthe overhang. Cont<strong>in</strong>ue the traverse until a short wall enablesa traverse to be made to Brown Crag Wall. Cont<strong>in</strong>ue up thegrooves <strong>and</strong> then back right to a ledge <strong>and</strong> tree belay.(3) 25 feet. Up <strong>and</strong> right to a large rock ledge below the last pitch<strong>of</strong> Arete Climb.(4) 80 feet. Traverse right to Brown Slab Crack.(5) 40 feet. Cont<strong>in</strong>ue up the slabs above.BLACK CRAGSUPER DIRECT 115 feet. Very severe. First ascent October, 1954.P. Ross, D. Oliver. Starts from the last belay onthe Direct Route.(1) 80 feet. Climb the crack on the left <strong>of</strong> the belay for 40 feet, thenmove over left on to a ledge with good belay.(2) 35 feet. Move a few feet left, then up a broken groove. A hardpull-up followed by a f<strong>in</strong>ger traverse leads to an easy groovewhich is climbed to the top <strong>of</strong> the P<strong>in</strong>nacle.OBITUARY GROOVES 330 feet. Very severe. First ascent 30th July, 1955.P. Greenwood, P. Ross (alternate leads). Starts atthe same po<strong>in</strong>t as the Direct Route <strong>and</strong> goes to the left.(1) 60 feet. Climb the slabs <strong>and</strong> then move <strong>in</strong>to a corner on the leftto a tree belay.(2) 40 feet. Ascend the vegetatious corner above until a move left canbe made to a tree belay below a steep groove.(3) no feet. Ascend the groove until a tree grow<strong>in</strong>g under an overhangcan be used for a runn<strong>in</strong>g belay. Move back to the left<strong>and</strong> cross the wall to a heathery stance, by an awkward sw<strong>in</strong>glay back move. The groove above leads to an ' Amen ' cornerwith holly grow<strong>in</strong>g beneath. Move left <strong>and</strong> ascend to a treebelay on the arete on the right.(4) 120 feet. Climb the easier rock above to a large flake, move left,<strong>and</strong> ascend <strong>in</strong>to an overhang<strong>in</strong>g groove, this leads on to slabsabove. Climb <strong>in</strong>to the corner for runn<strong>in</strong>g belay <strong>and</strong> ascend theslabs until a move right can be made <strong>in</strong>to a groove. Ascendthe groove <strong>and</strong> tw<strong>in</strong> cracks to the top.
Peter M<strong>of</strong>fat 347GIRDLE TRAVERSE 590 feet. Very severe. First ascent 16th July, 1955.P. Greenwood, P. Ross, D. English. Starts alongthe extreme left-h<strong>and</strong> side <strong>of</strong> the crag below the previously unclimbedbuttress. There is an old oak <strong>in</strong> the corner above the slop<strong>in</strong>g slabs.(1) <strong>50</strong> feet. Climb the slabs <strong>in</strong> the corner to a slop<strong>in</strong>g ledge withgood belay.(2) 30 feet. The slabs lead to a narrow ledge which is followed to alarge flake belay.(3) 30 feet. Retrace one's steps a few feet to a break <strong>in</strong> the wall above(flake for runner). Ascend the slabs above to small stance,with two doubtful belays below the overhang.(4) 80 feet. Traverse the long narrow slabs to the right until a shortwall leads to a good belay <strong>in</strong> the gully.(5) 90 feet. Ascend the slabs on the right <strong>and</strong> traverse diagonallyright to a tree on the skyl<strong>in</strong>e. The rocks above the tree lead toa large flake belay, <strong>and</strong> junction with top <strong>of</strong> pitch 1 <strong>of</strong> SuperDirect.(6) 30 feet. Pitch 2 <strong>of</strong> Super Direct.(7) 120 feet. Descend the p<strong>in</strong>nacle <strong>and</strong> cross the slab <strong>and</strong> descendto an oak. Belay <strong>in</strong> the corner. (Pitches 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, <strong>of</strong>Ord<strong>in</strong>ary Route reversed.)(8) 60 feet. Descend on to the slab on the right which is climbed tojunction with Troutdale Ridge.(9) <strong>50</strong> feet. Pitch 4 <strong>of</strong> Troutdale Ridge. Ascend the slab above tostance.(10) <strong>50</strong> feet. Move left past an oak <strong>and</strong> ascend a corner to the top <strong>of</strong>crag.YEW CRAGFrom Rosthwaite turn <strong>of</strong>f the ma<strong>in</strong> road, along the Watendlath lane.Yew Crag is the prom<strong>in</strong>ent outcrop directly ahead. A broken arete boundsthe north <strong>and</strong> an overhang<strong>in</strong>g wall flanks a mossy slab to the south.SINUATE SLAB 1<strong>50</strong> feet. Severe. First ascent 18th December,1955. D. Greenop, G. Benn. Starts at the rightcorner <strong>and</strong> lowest po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> the mossy slab.(1) 100 feet. Easy rocks for 10 feet, then up an ill-def<strong>in</strong>ed rib to asmall stance on the right edge <strong>of</strong> the slab. Cont<strong>in</strong>ue up theexposed edge <strong>of</strong> the slab <strong>and</strong> ascend a wet bulge <strong>and</strong> groove.Small belay <strong>and</strong> poor stance.(2) <strong>50</strong> feet. Keep to the right up easier slabs to the summit.COQUETTE'S GULLY IIO feet. Difficult. First ascent nth December,1955. D. Greenop. Starts 12 yards up to the left<strong>of</strong> S<strong>in</strong>uate Slab, <strong>in</strong> a corner at the extreme left <strong>of</strong> a slab.(1) 45 feet. The slab for a few feet, then climb the V-cleft on the left.Awkward vegetated rocks are followed past a holly bush to aplatform <strong>and</strong> block belay.
348 CLIMBS OLD AND NEW(2) 40 feet. Easy vegetated slabs to a tree belay.(3) 25 feet. Easy slabs to the left, or straight up the steep rock ahead.SEROTINOUS 145 feet. Severe. First ascent 18th December, 1955.D. Greenop, G. Benn. Starts immediately left <strong>of</strong>Coquette's Gully at the foot <strong>of</strong> a detached slab crowned by a large oak.(1) 15 feet. Climb the slab to a large oak.(2) 40 feet. The rib beh<strong>in</strong>d the oak is climbed to a holly bush,followed by vegetated rock to the block belay on Coquette'sGully.(3) 60 feet. Make an ascend<strong>in</strong>g traverse across the steep broken wallto the edge <strong>of</strong> the buttress. Us<strong>in</strong>g the spike on the skyl<strong>in</strong>e,step up <strong>and</strong> round, f<strong>in</strong>ish<strong>in</strong>g up steep heathery rocks on the left.Small block belay.(4) 30 feet. Steep slab climb<strong>in</strong>g.PANACEA RIDGE 175 feet. Difficult. First ascent 28th November,1955. D. Greenop, J. Miller. Starts 20 yards left<strong>of</strong> Serot<strong>in</strong>ous <strong>and</strong> to the right <strong>of</strong> the lowest part <strong>of</strong> the ridge.(1) 35 feet. A small rib leads to the ma<strong>in</strong> ridge, which is followed toa spike belay.(2) 25 feet. Bear slightly left <strong>and</strong> ascend the ridge. Belay on tw<strong>in</strong>oak.(3) 55 feet. Through the oak <strong>and</strong> up the slabs on the right to a ledge<strong>and</strong> block belay.(4) 60 feet. Bear right up the easy slabs to the top.INCIPIENT ARETE 200 feet. Moderate. First ascent 28th November, 1955.D. Greenop, J. Miller. Starts 15 yards to the left<strong>of</strong> Panacea Ridge to the lowest po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>of</strong> a spiky ridge.(1) 15 feet. Up an easy slab to a large flake belay.(2) 25 feet. Keep<strong>in</strong>g to the right-h<strong>and</strong> edge, climb to a large project<strong>in</strong>gflake.(3) 15 feet. Severe but can be avoided. Move from the spike to theslab, <strong>and</strong> so to a stance <strong>and</strong> tree belay.(4) 30 feet. Easy broken rocks, then up a small groove to a cleanrib on the left. Belay.(5) 25 feet. Climb the needle <strong>of</strong> rock <strong>in</strong> the corner <strong>and</strong> move rightto a crevasse. Belay.(6) 30 feet. Scramble up <strong>and</strong> right to a block belay.(7) 60 feet. Bear right all the time on easy slabs.GOAT CRAGPEREGRINE WALL 105 feet. Very severe. First ascent nth April,1955. S.R.J., A. Bartlett. Starts at the foot <strong>of</strong> alarge block, to the right <strong>of</strong>, <strong>and</strong> below the Perched Block itself.(i) 45 feet. Climb the cracked groove on the right-h<strong>and</strong> side <strong>of</strong> theblock for 25 feet, then step on to the right edge <strong>and</strong> follow thisto the belay on the top. Walk to the foot <strong>of</strong> the steep wallahead on the right <strong>of</strong> the perched block.
Peter M<strong>of</strong>fat 349(2) 30 feet. Up the steep wall us<strong>in</strong>g a crack for the first 10 feet.Now traverse up the shallow groove on the left to reach thebelay on the upper corner <strong>of</strong> the Perched Block.(3) 30 feet. Step right, then up the steep crack, first lay-back<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong>f<strong>in</strong>ally pull<strong>in</strong>g up on a jammed flake to reach the alcove <strong>and</strong>peregr<strong>in</strong>es' nest. Easy rocks lead to the top.DIRECT START TO 100 feet. Very severe. First ascent nth April,PERCHED BLOCK 1955. S.R.J. (top rope). 100 feet. Climb directlyup the corner.CASTLE CRAGIRRAWADDY 275 feet. Very severe. First ascent 29th July,1955. P. Greenwood, J. Smeaton. Starts to theleft <strong>of</strong> a steep groove at a sawn down tree, that is just to the right <strong>and</strong>above the lower left-h<strong>and</strong> buttress. The climb takes a l<strong>in</strong>e up the centre<strong>of</strong> the three buttresses compos<strong>in</strong>g the crag.(1) 95 feet. Scramble up to the tree <strong>and</strong> ascend the steep wall beh<strong>in</strong>dto the left <strong>of</strong> a groove. A small tree is useful to ascend the overhang.Cont<strong>in</strong>ue up the wall until a move right on to the aretecan be made, near the top. Easy climb<strong>in</strong>g then leads to a treebelay <strong>and</strong> small stance. (A stance <strong>and</strong> belay can be taken halfwayup this pitch, by a traverse left to a tree <strong>in</strong> the corner.)(2) 90 feet. Climb the steep wall beh<strong>in</strong>d the tree on good holdsuntil a move right near the top gives a rest<strong>in</strong>g place below aneasy-look<strong>in</strong>g ridge. Ascend the ridge on to a tree-covered glaciswhich is followed to a tree belay beside a large lean<strong>in</strong>g p<strong>in</strong>nacle.(3) 90 feet. Climb over the p<strong>in</strong>nacle <strong>and</strong> diagonally rightwards toa large cracked block below a steep stepped crack. Ascend thecrack <strong>and</strong> a groove. Easier climb<strong>in</strong>g leads to the top.Between Falcon Crag <strong>and</strong> Lodore Falls are two crags. The climb is onthe nearest to Keswick.VICISSITUDE 210 feet. Severe. First ascent 8th May, 1949.D. Greenop, W. A. Lannaghan (alternate leads).Starts from a cairn near a tree at the base <strong>of</strong> the cliff's lowest bastion.(1) 60 feet. The steep mossy slab to the left <strong>of</strong> the cairn.Move gradually right until an overhang<strong>in</strong>g wall prevents furtherprogress. Traverse left over vegetated rock to a tree beneath awall. Belay.(2) <strong>50</strong> feet. Ascend the wall <strong>and</strong> the slab above to its left corner.Make a descend<strong>in</strong>g traverse right to a steep rotten arete whichleads to a stony ledge. Belay.(3) 40 feet. Easier climb<strong>in</strong>g on broken slabs to another ledge. Belay.(4) 60 feet. Steep slabs lead to the top.RAVEN CRAG, COMBE GHYLLSOLWIDIAN'S 700 feet. Severe. First ascent 25th April, 1954.ROUTED. N. Greenop, W. A. Lannaghan (alternate leads).Starts about 100 feet up the grassy gully to the left
3<strong>50</strong> CLIMES OLD AND NEW<strong>of</strong> Raven Crag Buttress, <strong>and</strong> then by mov<strong>in</strong>g right to a grass ledge whichabuts aga<strong>in</strong>st the great overhang<strong>in</strong>g wall just below the level <strong>and</strong> well tothe right <strong>of</strong> Slab Route.(i) 40 feet. Step on to the wall below the small ash tree <strong>and</strong> moveround the corner to a steep slab. Climb straight up this for5 feet until impend<strong>in</strong>g rocks force an awkward traverse right tothe obvious bracket on the skyl<strong>in</strong>e. Move past the bracket fora few feet then descend to a stance <strong>and</strong> small belay.(2) 85 feet. An upward traverse on a f<strong>in</strong>e slab to a junction with theButtress Route. Cont<strong>in</strong>ue bear<strong>in</strong>g right, over good rock, acrossa narrow grassy cleft to an open corner <strong>and</strong> nose which isclimbed to a bad f<strong>in</strong>ish below a small tree. Cross the rib on theright to a good stance <strong>and</strong> belay on Corvus. This pitch is somewhatexposed.(3-4) 125 feet. Corvus to the foot <strong>of</strong> Pitch 6 on that climb.(5) 35 ^eet - Instead <strong>of</strong> climb<strong>in</strong>g the wall ahead, move across to a ribon the right <strong>and</strong> make a slightly descend<strong>in</strong>g traverse across itsface. The rough wall follow<strong>in</strong>g is climbed by an ascend<strong>in</strong>gtraverse right. Stance <strong>and</strong> belay <strong>in</strong> grassy gully.(6) 65 feet. Climb the easy rib on the right for 5 feet, then traverseright over steep slabs to unpleasant heather-covered rocks. Atthis po<strong>in</strong>t a descend<strong>in</strong>g traverse is made just above a tw<strong>in</strong> ash<strong>in</strong>to a steep gully. Cross the clean <strong>and</strong> well scratched slabs to aspike belay on the right wall.(7) 35 f eet - Up on good holds for 5 feet, then move right <strong>in</strong>to a steepgroove which is passed <strong>in</strong> favour <strong>of</strong> the almost vertical arete.Step round this to a poor f<strong>in</strong>ish on heather; tree belay. Nowscramble over heather <strong>in</strong>to the bed <strong>of</strong> Raven Crag Gully, nearthe foot <strong>of</strong> Pitch 7.(8-9) 1<strong>50</strong> feet. Pitches 7 <strong>and</strong> 8 <strong>of</strong> Raven Crag Gully. Belay.(10) 30 feet. From the stance on the right wall a difficult ascend<strong>in</strong>gtraverse is made to the right until it f<strong>in</strong>ishes on the ' GreenOasis ' encountered on the Summit Route.(11-14) 135 feet. The last four pitches <strong>of</strong> the Summit Route.BUTTERMERESTRIDDLE CRAG (WARNSCALE BOTTOM)STRIDDLE CRAG 400 feet. Very difficult. First ascent 2nd January,BUTTRESS <strong>1956</strong>. D. N. Greenop, G. Benn (alternate leads).Starts on the buttress to the left <strong>of</strong> Fleetwith Gullywhere some large blocks form a wide crack conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g a bulky flake.(1) 20 feet. To the top <strong>of</strong> the flake. Belay.(2) 35 feet. Step across the crevasse <strong>and</strong> move right, then straight upthe face to a broken ledge which is crossed to easy rocks <strong>and</strong> ablock belay at the foot <strong>of</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong> crag.(3) 20 feet. Climb the wall ahead for 5 feet, then traverse right <strong>and</strong>up to a large block belay.
Peter M<strong>of</strong>fat 351(4) 60 feet. Step up to the ledge <strong>and</strong> traverse right to the nose overlook<strong>in</strong>gthe gully. Climb straight up, <strong>and</strong> move slightly left <strong>and</strong>over easier rock to a small belay.(5) 40 feet. Bear slightly left on rough slabs.(6) 30 feet. The same.(7) 20 feet. The same to a heather terrace <strong>and</strong> belay.(8) 45 feet. The slabs on the left to the foot <strong>of</strong> a peculiar rock gangway.(9) 20 feet. Cont<strong>in</strong>ue up the gangway for 20 feet then cross a heatherrake to the foot <strong>of</strong> a long rib which runs parallel to the gangway.(10) 70 feet. The rib to a po<strong>in</strong>t opposite a large boulder with a tabletop.(n) 25 feet. The steep broken rocks on the right to a ledge <strong>and</strong>belay.(12) 15 feet. Easy rocks.PEDAGOGUE'S 330 feet. Severe. First ascent 6th January, <strong>1956</strong>.CHIMNEY D. N. Greenop, G. Benn (alternate leads). Startssome yards to the left <strong>of</strong> Striddle Crag Buttressbelow an obvious cave which is the open<strong>in</strong>g to a narrow rift <strong>in</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong>cliff. A huge mass <strong>of</strong> rock blocks the outer part <strong>of</strong> the steep chimney,almost convert<strong>in</strong>g it <strong>in</strong>to a dark m<strong>in</strong>e shaft 90 feet high with a caveentrance <strong>and</strong> a manhole exit.(1) 30 feet. The narrow gully bed.(2) 60 feet. The back <strong>of</strong> the dimly lit chimney for a short distance.Impend<strong>in</strong>g rock forces a strenuous upward traverse to the leftfollowed by two or three short pulls to the stance below themanhole which leads to a good stance <strong>and</strong> belay.(3) 40 feet. Climb the steep wall on the right <strong>of</strong> a crack for 15 feetuntil a move can be made <strong>in</strong>to the crack, which is ascended fora few feet. Then step delicately left to ga<strong>in</strong> the top <strong>of</strong> theadjacent wall. Easy climb<strong>in</strong>g leads to a ledge <strong>and</strong> belay to theleft at the foot <strong>of</strong> some broken cracks.(4) 25 feet. The cracks for 20 feet then move left to a small ledge<strong>and</strong> flake belay.(5) 30 feet. The wall ahead to another ledge.(6) 30 feet. Climb the <strong>in</strong>cipient gangway <strong>and</strong> pull up to a rockledge. The short crack <strong>in</strong> the corner gives access to an easyangled strip <strong>of</strong> slab.(7) 35 feet. The boulder face on the right to the easy ridge onStriddle Crag Buttress which is followed for 15 feet.(8) 30 feet. Traverse down to the right over the table top block tothe foot <strong>of</strong> an impos<strong>in</strong>g crack. Belay.(9) 35 feet. The crack is awkward to start <strong>and</strong> difficulties <strong>in</strong>creasewith height. The overhang<strong>in</strong>g f<strong>in</strong>ish is strenuous. Platform<strong>and</strong> belay.(10) 15 feet. Easv rock to the f<strong>in</strong>ish.
352 CLIMBS OLD AND NEWFAR EASEDALEDEER BIELD CRAGHUBRIS 190 feet. Very severe. First ascent 5th January,<strong>1956</strong>. H. Drasdo, A. J. Norton. The climb takesthe prom<strong>in</strong>ent groove 20 or 30 feet to the right <strong>of</strong>the Chimney. It conta<strong>in</strong>s throughout its length a rib divid<strong>in</strong>g it <strong>in</strong>totw<strong>in</strong> grooves. The grooves conta<strong>in</strong> grass ' caterpillars' which are poorlyattached.(1) 60 feet. Ascend the 12 foot corner guard<strong>in</strong>g entry to the groove(piton <strong>and</strong> etrier). Climb the groove to a niche formed by theoverhang <strong>in</strong> the left-h<strong>and</strong> groove. Piton <strong>in</strong> central rib.(2) 130 feet. Move <strong>in</strong>to the right-h<strong>and</strong> groove, <strong>and</strong> up a little, us<strong>in</strong>gperched blocks carefully (piton). Step <strong>in</strong>to left-h<strong>and</strong> l<strong>in</strong>e, <strong>and</strong>ascend to the overhang. Enter the groove above with a piton<strong>and</strong> etrier. After 10 feet a good flake on the rib permits a sw<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>to the right-h<strong>and</strong> groove which is climbed on unstable grassto a tree below the f<strong>in</strong>al overhang. Exit delicately on the ribon the right. Then heather <strong>and</strong> a further rib <strong>and</strong> more heatherleads to a good tree.THIRLMERECASTLE ROCK OF TRIERMAINTHIRLMERE 200 feet. Very severe. First ascent 26th June,ELIMINATE 1955. P. Greenwood, P. Ross (alternate leads).Starts at the same po<strong>in</strong>t as Overhang<strong>in</strong>g Bastion,where a large flake leans aga<strong>in</strong>st the wall.(1) 60 feet. Climb up to the top <strong>of</strong> the flake, when a good h<strong>and</strong>hold can be reached for a mantelshelf movement. Move right<strong>in</strong>to the corner <strong>and</strong> ascend past a tree to the left-h<strong>and</strong> edge <strong>of</strong>the long narrow slab used on Harlot's Face.(2) 80 feet. The arete on the left is the next objective, <strong>and</strong> is reachedby travers<strong>in</strong>g diagonally left <strong>in</strong>to a corner. There are goodholds to pull on to the arete (runn<strong>in</strong>g belay). Cont<strong>in</strong>ue up thearete to a ledge below three steep walls. Piton for belay.(3) 60 feet. The central wall is climbed <strong>in</strong> the corner to an overhangwhere a piton is <strong>in</strong>serted. With a sl<strong>in</strong>g attached ascend theoverhang <strong>in</strong>to the corner which is climbed until a move left canbe made, <strong>and</strong> the climb cont<strong>in</strong>ued to a rest<strong>in</strong>g place on the arete.Cont<strong>in</strong>ue easily to stance <strong>and</strong> belay.ANGEL'S 180 feet. Very severe. First ascent 6th September,HIGHWAY 1955. P. Greenwood, P. Whitwell. Starts a fewfeet to the right <strong>of</strong> Trierma<strong>in</strong> Elim<strong>in</strong>ate at a cornergroove which leads to the right-h<strong>and</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> the small ledge reached onthe first pitch <strong>of</strong> the latter. The climb goes to the right <strong>of</strong> Harlot's Face.(1) 130 feet. Climb the groove to a rest<strong>in</strong>g place (runn<strong>in</strong>g belay).Traverse right, <strong>and</strong> up <strong>in</strong>to an overhang<strong>in</strong>g corner <strong>and</strong> largeloose p<strong>in</strong>nacle. Move right round the steep arete on to the facebeyond. Move right <strong>and</strong> later left until a groove is reached,
Peter M<strong>of</strong>fat 353cont<strong>in</strong>ue up the groove until a tree provides a rest<strong>in</strong>g place. Aftera few feet a short traverse left leads to a good ledge <strong>and</strong> treebelay.(2) <strong>50</strong> feet. Climb the wall above until it merges <strong>in</strong>to a heatheryglacis. Cont<strong>in</strong>ue up this with care to the f<strong>in</strong>ish.RAVEN CRAGDELPHINUS 300 feet. Very severe. First ascent 26th February,<strong>1956</strong>. D. Whillans, J. Smith. Starts up the vegetationto the foot <strong>of</strong> the rocks below the cave.(1) 70 feet. Climb a bracken groove on the left to the cave. Thenby shaly ledges across to the right-h<strong>and</strong> side <strong>of</strong> the cave, wheretwo pitons can be seen <strong>in</strong> a steep glacis. Block belay.(2) 65 feet. Slip a sl<strong>in</strong>g on to the second piton <strong>and</strong> pull round to theright to a rest<strong>in</strong>g place. Traverse left to the foot <strong>of</strong> a V-chimney(piton <strong>and</strong> runner under the overhang), up this to a niche, thentraverse right to a grass ledge <strong>and</strong> spike belay.(3) 130 feet. Up the steep wall at the back <strong>of</strong> the belay to a grassledge 12 feet above. Traverse to the left-h<strong>and</strong> end <strong>and</strong> up asmall groove to another grass ledge. Up this until large holdslead underneath an overhang (friable rock). Traverse left for35 feet to a grass terrace. Up this to a chockstone belay beh<strong>in</strong>da huge block.(4) 35 feet. Climb straight up the groove above to the top.DEEPDALEHUTAPLE CRAGAMPHITHEATRE 390 feet. Very severe. First ascent 15th August,1955. A. D. Marsden, G. Batty. Starts at the foot<strong>of</strong> the water-worn slabs, below <strong>and</strong> to the left <strong>of</strong> thelarge amphitheatre situated centrally on the crag.(1) 80 feet. Ascend the slabs until the rock steepens. A traverse isnow made to the right <strong>in</strong>to a shallow groove which is followedto a large grass ledge below a prom<strong>in</strong>ent overhang. Small flakebelay on extreme right <strong>of</strong> ledge.(2) <strong>50</strong> feet. Follow the wall above on good holds, then move to theleft to a small ledge <strong>and</strong> doubtful belay <strong>in</strong> a crack.(3) 70 feet. Move right across the steep wall <strong>and</strong> up through theobvious break <strong>in</strong> the overhang to a second large ledge. Pitonbelay advisable. A runner is available <strong>in</strong> the crack above thestance for the <strong>in</strong>itial part <strong>of</strong> the pitch, two other runners afterwards,the last for l<strong>in</strong>e only.(4) 70 feet. Make an awkward step <strong>in</strong>to the groove on the left <strong>and</strong>cont<strong>in</strong>ue to a large terrace.(5) 90 feet. Climb the prom<strong>in</strong>ent rib on the left <strong>of</strong> the obvious gullyabove.(6) 30 feet. F<strong>in</strong>al pitch <strong>of</strong> Migra<strong>in</strong>e.KEY TO INITIALS.S. R. Jackson.
IN MEMORIAMWILSONBUTLER,1906-1955Wilson Butler, an orig<strong>in</strong>al member <strong>of</strong> the Club, was HonoraryTreasurer from 1915-1920 <strong>and</strong> Vice-President 1921-1923. Hewas an important member <strong>of</strong> the small team, brilliantly led byHerbert Ca<strong>in</strong>, who negotiated the War Memorial transactionsfrom 1919-1923. In addition to help<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the negotiations hecarried out all the legal work on behalf <strong>of</strong> the Club <strong>in</strong> anhonorary capacity; <strong>and</strong> this legal work was unusually difficult forit <strong>in</strong>volved the convey<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> l<strong>and</strong> above a certa<strong>in</strong> contour with avariation <strong>of</strong> that contour to exclude the top <strong>of</strong> Sty Head Pass. Itmust have been an excit<strong>in</strong>g time for this small b<strong>and</strong> wheneventually agreement was reached after long <strong>and</strong> sometimesfrustrat<strong>in</strong>g set backs, as the Club M<strong>in</strong>utes over these years show.Butler was not a rock climber, but a great cross-country walker,<strong>and</strong> with his friend, Darw<strong>in</strong> Leighton, was welcomed <strong>in</strong> manya farm house <strong>in</strong> all parts <strong>of</strong> the district. But for an unfortunatedisagreement, Butler would probably have been honoured withthe Presidency, which <strong>of</strong>fice he would have filled with dist<strong>in</strong>ction.He was educated at Lancaster Grammar School <strong>and</strong> Peterhouse,Cambridge, where he received his M.A. A good many yearsafter leav<strong>in</strong>g Cambridge he wrote a learned thesis on the Customs<strong>and</strong> Tenant-Right Tenures <strong>of</strong> the Furness District. As a result<strong>of</strong> this he was granted a dist<strong>in</strong>ction from the University—LL.M.He also wrote a thesis on the Ancient Fairs <strong>of</strong> Ravenglass, Dalton<strong>and</strong> Broughton-<strong>in</strong>-Furness. His knowledge <strong>of</strong> the YeomanFarmers <strong>and</strong> their farms was pr<strong>of</strong>ound. He was an <strong>in</strong>timate <strong>of</strong>Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Coll<strong>in</strong>gwood <strong>and</strong> took a great <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> the archaeology<strong>and</strong> history <strong>of</strong> the Lake District. His other <strong>in</strong>terests werefox hunt<strong>in</strong>g with Tommy Dobson, the famous hunter, <strong>and</strong> folkdanc<strong>in</strong>g.Butler followed his father <strong>in</strong> the old established firm <strong>of</strong>Thomas Butler & Son, Solicitors, Broughton. He was steward<strong>of</strong> the Manor <strong>of</strong> Broughton <strong>and</strong> for many years Magistrates Clerkat Millom.He married Miss Gunson, <strong>of</strong> the well-known Ulpha family,who predeceased him by two years. He was 86.W. G. MlLLIGAN.
IN MEMORIAM 355G. W. WOOD-JOHNSON, 1926-1955The untimely death <strong>of</strong> George Wood-Johnson at the age <strong>of</strong> 51has robbed the Club <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> its outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g personalities <strong>and</strong>most brilliant mounta<strong>in</strong>eers, <strong>and</strong> with our deep sense <strong>of</strong> loss areassociated many happy recollections <strong>of</strong> his buoyancy <strong>and</strong>enthusiasm.After apprenticeship <strong>and</strong> other tra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Lancashire, he waseng<strong>in</strong>eer <strong>and</strong> assistant manager <strong>of</strong> a tea estate for eleven years,<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> 1938 jo<strong>in</strong>ed that home <strong>of</strong> climbers, Vickers at Barrow.Follow<strong>in</strong>g the war — dur<strong>in</strong>g which he was a platooncomm<strong>and</strong>er <strong>in</strong> the Home Guard, qualified as a glider pilot <strong>and</strong>tra<strong>in</strong>ed mounta<strong>in</strong> troops — he was appo<strong>in</strong>ted group eng<strong>in</strong>eer tothe Atomic Energy Authority at Sellafield, where his spare timewas spent <strong>in</strong> br<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g up <strong>in</strong> the way they should go <strong>in</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong>s,boys from St. Bees School where his son was a pupil. Hehad decided to accept a transfer to the new Atomic Station atDounreay, Caithness, when he was stricken by the illness fromwhich he died.The foundations <strong>of</strong> George's life as a mounta<strong>in</strong>eer were laid<strong>in</strong> the years 1920-24 when — usually <strong>in</strong> the company <strong>of</strong> one orboth <strong>of</strong> his brothers — he ga<strong>in</strong>ed a wide experience <strong>of</strong> camp<strong>in</strong>g<strong>and</strong> hill walk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Wales, Irel<strong>and</strong>, the Penn<strong>in</strong>es <strong>and</strong> the Lakes.The <strong>in</strong>spiration for serious rock climb<strong>in</strong>g can be attributed to thededication ceremony <strong>of</strong> the Club's War Memorial <strong>in</strong> 1924.When I met the brothers <strong>in</strong> 1926, they were work<strong>in</strong>g systematicallythrough the list <strong>in</strong> G. Abraham's British Mounta<strong>in</strong>Climbs, but George had already jumped the queue by lead<strong>in</strong>gRib <strong>and</strong> Slab. I had the privilege <strong>of</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g him up <strong>and</strong>nam<strong>in</strong>g his first new climb, Prayer Mat Buttress. In that sameyear, on Ca<strong>in</strong>'s suggestion, the brothers went to Skye, whereGeorge led (amongst many others) Mallory's <strong>and</strong> Cioch Direct.But his heart was set on bigger th<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>and</strong> to get on to the nextEverest expedition became an absorb<strong>in</strong>g passion to which be wasready to devote his life. He had the good fortune, when <strong>in</strong>Eskdale <strong>in</strong> 1926, to meet Shebbeare, who was <strong>in</strong>strumental <strong>in</strong>gett<strong>in</strong>g him the appo<strong>in</strong>tment at Darjeel<strong>in</strong>g (his departure fromEngl<strong>and</strong> was celebrated by a solo descent <strong>in</strong> the ra<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> Eagle'sNest Direct!). All the time his work would allow was devotedto prepar<strong>in</strong>g himself for the great day. He learnt Nepali, <strong>and</strong>spent all his leaves <strong>in</strong> the Sikkim Himalaya. His first triumphI
356 IN MESIORIAMcame when he was selected as a British representative <strong>in</strong> Dyrenfurth'sKanchenjunga Expedition <strong>in</strong> 1930. He did excellentwork <strong>and</strong>, but for an attack <strong>of</strong> illness due to poison<strong>in</strong>g, mightwell have shared Smythe's success on Jonsong Peak.F<strong>in</strong>ally <strong>in</strong> 1933 came the realisation <strong>of</strong> his highest ambition—Everest — <strong>and</strong> a few quotations from Ruttledge must suffice todeal with this phase. ' Wood-Johnson was like a schoolboy onholiday, <strong>and</strong> no wonder. For six long years he had prepared forthis day.' ' Much <strong>of</strong> the transport work fell on Wood-Johnsonwho made a most gallant effort to conceal his grow<strong>in</strong>g illnessfrom us.' ' Little did we th<strong>in</strong>k that poor Wood-Johnson's workon the mounta<strong>in</strong> was f<strong>in</strong>ished, <strong>and</strong> that this strong, tremendouslykeen climber, on whom I had confidently counted to take part <strong>in</strong>the f<strong>in</strong>al assaults, was suffer<strong>in</strong>g from a gastric ulcer.'What a man! What a friend! What a memory!T. R. BURNETT.GEOFFREY ELIOT HOWARD, 1918-<strong>1956</strong>Ge<strong>of</strong>frey Howard was the son <strong>of</strong> a mounta<strong>in</strong>eer, <strong>and</strong> exploredseveral unusual groups <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>s such as S<strong>in</strong>ai, the SierraMorena, the Pyrenees, <strong>and</strong> the Selkirks. In addition he madeseveral other visits to the <strong>Rock</strong>ies, many to the Alps <strong>and</strong> theHighl<strong>and</strong>s, <strong>and</strong> a few to the Lake District. He had a greataffection for mounta<strong>in</strong>s, <strong>and</strong> loved to be among them. He neverdid spectacular climbs, nor anyth<strong>in</strong>g on the rocks harder than theSlab <strong>and</strong> Notch, except an ascent <strong>of</strong> the Great Pyramid by a newroute.He was a most enterta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g companion, with an ebullientsense <strong>of</strong> humour which never failed him even <strong>in</strong> his later yearswhen racked by cont<strong>in</strong>ual asthma. He regularly attended theannual d<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>of</strong> our London Section, <strong>and</strong> if he spoke at it hekept everyone <strong>in</strong> fits <strong>of</strong> laughter. His knowledge <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>swas immense, <strong>and</strong> he was always keen on the promotion <strong>of</strong> goodfellowship among climbers <strong>and</strong> their clubs. It is a pity that hisbus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>and</strong> his fail<strong>in</strong>g health (his cheerfulness never flagged)kept him from the fells <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong> dur<strong>in</strong>g the last few years.We <strong>of</strong>fer our sympathy to his wife <strong>and</strong> his three sons for thepass<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> a great-hearted lover <strong>of</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong>s.T. HOWARD SOMERVELL.
IN MEMORIAM 357WILSON H. HEY, 1925-<strong>1956</strong>Wilson Hey was a well-known surgeon <strong>in</strong> Manchester, wherehe spent the whole <strong>of</strong> his pr<strong>of</strong>essional life. His powers as adiagnostician <strong>and</strong> as a surgeon with the confidence to explorenew methods <strong>of</strong> treatment were outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> this field hehas left his mark <strong>and</strong> has undoubtedly contributed to the relief<strong>of</strong> suffer<strong>in</strong>g.He had a life-long <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g. I rememberwhen I first met him, many years ago, <strong>and</strong> talked to him aboutthe Rucksack Club, <strong>of</strong> which he was then president, he said thatthe quality they valued most <strong>in</strong> their members was a real love <strong>of</strong>mounta<strong>in</strong>s. He certa<strong>in</strong>ly loved mounta<strong>in</strong>s. Whether climb<strong>in</strong>g,as he did, <strong>in</strong> many parts <strong>of</strong> Brita<strong>in</strong>, or <strong>in</strong> the Alps, or talk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>his adventures, or encourag<strong>in</strong>g others to take up mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g,there was no doubt about that. He played a lead<strong>in</strong>g role <strong>in</strong>several <strong>of</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g clubs, <strong>and</strong> was possibly at his bestwhen tak<strong>in</strong>g part <strong>in</strong> the club life. He was a member <strong>of</strong> the<strong>Fell</strong> & <strong>Rock</strong> for thirty years, though most <strong>of</strong> his climb<strong>in</strong>gactivities were <strong>in</strong> Derbyshire <strong>and</strong> North Wales, <strong>and</strong> we did notsee nearly so much <strong>of</strong> him <strong>in</strong> the Lake District as we should haveliked.It was, however, his great work <strong>in</strong> connection with mounta<strong>in</strong>rescue that appealed most strongly to our members, for theClub has always taken a special <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong> rescues<strong>in</strong>ce the first attempts were made for its organisation. Hewas closely concerned with the sett<strong>in</strong>g up <strong>of</strong> the Mounta<strong>in</strong> RescueCommittee <strong>and</strong> was its chairman for the last sixteen years <strong>of</strong> hislife. Aid to those <strong>in</strong>jured on the mounta<strong>in</strong>s while climb<strong>in</strong>g orwalk<strong>in</strong>g was a matter about which he felt deeply, <strong>and</strong> no one whosat on that committee could fail to be impressed with the s<strong>in</strong>cerity<strong>of</strong> his personal feel<strong>in</strong>g for those <strong>in</strong> need <strong>of</strong> this k<strong>in</strong>d <strong>of</strong> help. Thepatient was always uppermost <strong>in</strong> his m<strong>in</strong>d, whether the matterunder discussion was the content <strong>of</strong> the first-aid equipment,improvements <strong>in</strong> the stretchers for use <strong>in</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>ous countryor the most strategic po<strong>in</strong>ts for plac<strong>in</strong>g the equipment.It was his conviction that everyth<strong>in</strong>g should be done to makethe journey <strong>of</strong>f the mounta<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> on to hospital as comfortable aspossible, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>deed to aid subsequent recovery, that led him todem<strong>and</strong> the use <strong>of</strong> morphia on the mounta<strong>in</strong>side, if necessary bynon-medical people. This he brought <strong>in</strong>to operation on his own
358 IN MEMORIAMresponsibility s<strong>in</strong>ce he could not get the agreement <strong>of</strong> the HomeOffice. Later, this gave rise to legal proceed<strong>in</strong>gs aga<strong>in</strong>st him,which, while they resulted <strong>in</strong> a f<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> costs, also gave thematter the publicity he desired. In the end the Home Officeagreed to the issue <strong>of</strong> morphia to the supervisors <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>rescue posts <strong>and</strong> to its use <strong>in</strong> the absence <strong>of</strong> doctors, the f<strong>in</strong>alresponsibility for its issue be<strong>in</strong>g left to Wilson Hey or hisdeputy.His appearance was strik<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> his bushy eyebrows <strong>and</strong> s<strong>of</strong>tvoice made an immediate impression on all who met him. Thosewho knew him well will always remember him as a man <strong>of</strong> greatcharacter <strong>and</strong> an <strong>in</strong>dividualist, but for those whose urge leadsthem to spend what time they can among mounta<strong>in</strong>s his namewill for ever be associated with the organisation <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>rescue <strong>and</strong> the paramount necessity for the relief <strong>of</strong> pa<strong>in</strong>.BERNARD Z. SIMPSON, 1933-<strong>1956</strong>R. W. ELDRIDGE.The death <strong>of</strong> B. Z. Simpson came to those who knew him asa sad <strong>and</strong> unexpected shock. B.Z., as he was known by hisfriends, returned to this district from the south <strong>of</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> wherehe had lived after leav<strong>in</strong>g the service <strong>of</strong> the Westmorl<strong>and</strong> CountyCouncil as their Treasurer.B.Z. was an ardent Christian Scientist <strong>and</strong> was a man who hadvery <strong>in</strong>dividualistic views on life about which he was alwaysready to argue or discuss at length, but he also had a fervent lovefor the hills, particularly those <strong>of</strong> the Lake District. I spentmany happy days walk<strong>in</strong>g or climb<strong>in</strong>g with him; no matter whatthe state <strong>of</strong> the weather, he was always ready for a day on thefells. He was a competent climber, <strong>and</strong> enjoyed just as muchlead<strong>in</strong>g a Severe with other climbers <strong>of</strong> similar ability as tak<strong>in</strong>ga beg<strong>in</strong>ner for the first time up a moderate.He was Honorary Treasurer <strong>of</strong> the Club from 1944 to 1946,but rel<strong>in</strong>quished the <strong>of</strong>fice when he moved to the South.It is sad that ill health overtook him on his return to the Lakes,as he was delighted to be back among the hills aga<strong>in</strong> to enjoyperhaps not so much rock climb<strong>in</strong>g, but fell walk<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> hisphotography <strong>in</strong> which he was extremely competent. His cheerfulpersonality will be missed by all who knew him.R. B. BERRY.
IN MEMORIAM 359JOHN WILLIAM D I AMOND, 1936-<strong>1956</strong>Jack Diamond died towards the end <strong>of</strong> February from thecomparatively rare Hodgk<strong>in</strong>son's Disease <strong>in</strong> a hospital a hundredmiles away from his beloved Lakel<strong>and</strong> hills. Tragically, he wasonly 45 years <strong>of</strong> age.The hills meant everyth<strong>in</strong>g to Jack <strong>and</strong> had done for thirtyyears. After service <strong>in</strong> the Middle East dur<strong>in</strong>g the war he threwup his job <strong>and</strong> qualified as a school teacher so that he might beable to live a little nearer the mounta<strong>in</strong>s. And it seemed quitenatural that he should come to live <strong>in</strong> Coniston where he <strong>and</strong> I<strong>and</strong> a h<strong>and</strong>ful <strong>of</strong> others had spent the happiest days <strong>of</strong> our youth.Jack <strong>and</strong> I went to school together <strong>and</strong> climbed <strong>and</strong> adventuredtogether for thirty years, but I never remember him once los<strong>in</strong>ghis head or his temper. He was the most equable <strong>and</strong> k<strong>in</strong>dly <strong>of</strong>men.He started his collection <strong>of</strong> the Lakel<strong>and</strong> ' two thous<strong>and</strong>ers 'while still at school, catalogu<strong>in</strong>g his walks with characteristicthoroughness <strong>and</strong>, a few years later, I took him up his first rockclimb. He had deliberately kept <strong>of</strong>f climb<strong>in</strong>g — ' until I knowthe hills properly.' Jack became a very sound rock climber, buthis essential caution prevented him from reach<strong>in</strong>g the top rank.He never once had an accident <strong>and</strong> he took part <strong>in</strong> a few firstascents on Dow Crag <strong>and</strong> Gimmer. Dozens <strong>of</strong> people musthave learned to climb rocks safely under his patient care. Hevisited the Alps only once but Scotl<strong>and</strong> many times. On oneoccasion he had to ab<strong>and</strong>on a gallant solo attempt on the Cool<strong>in</strong>Ridge when near the end because <strong>of</strong> thirst on a scorch<strong>in</strong>gly hotday.Although Jack's home was on the outskirts <strong>of</strong> Coniston village,this was not as near to the fells as he wished, <strong>and</strong> much <strong>of</strong> hislife <strong>and</strong> energy was devoted to the establishment <strong>of</strong> huts as far upthe mounta<strong>in</strong> sides as possible. He was at his happiest knock<strong>in</strong>gsome old shelter <strong>in</strong>to shape or brew<strong>in</strong>g mugs <strong>of</strong> tea for his friends<strong>in</strong> a wild, w<strong>in</strong>dswept bothy.As youths, Jack <strong>and</strong> I, with seven other young men from theFurness district, established what I believe was the first climb<strong>in</strong>ghut <strong>in</strong> the Lake District — a wooden shack on the shore <strong>of</strong>Coniston Water. <strong>Year</strong>s later we all sold out our shares <strong>in</strong> thehut to Jack, but the ' Coniston Tigers ' — I th<strong>in</strong>k it was GeorgeBower who first gave us the name — still holds its annual d<strong>in</strong>ner.Jack was always the secretary, organiser <strong>and</strong> chief hut guardian,
360 IN MEMORIAM<strong>and</strong> when the old hut was f<strong>in</strong>ally dismantled it was not longbefore he had secured another for himself — this time a m<strong>in</strong>er'scottage above Church Beck.jack's third hut, above the former gunpowder hut on ConistonOld Man <strong>and</strong> fac<strong>in</strong>g the crags <strong>of</strong> his youth, was designed by himas a place where young people might learn from the mounta<strong>in</strong>s,but he died before he could f<strong>in</strong>ish it. Happily, it is be<strong>in</strong>g completedas a memorial to a k<strong>in</strong>dly man who tried to pass on toothers someth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the great joy he had found <strong>in</strong> his homel<strong>and</strong>A. H. GRIFFIN.E. H . BANKS 1909- 1955MRS. GILBERT-COOPER 1920-<strong>1956</strong>H . C . H A I N E s 1922-<strong>1956</strong>W. M. HUMPHREY 1928-<strong>1956</strong>K . B . MILNE 1924-1955A. WILDGOOSE 1930-1955T. A. WOODSEND 1914-1955After the Journal had gone to press we heard with great regret<strong>of</strong> the death <strong>of</strong> T. C. Ormiston-Chant, which occurred on 22ndJuly. We hope to pr<strong>in</strong>t a memoir <strong>in</strong> our next issue. He reta<strong>in</strong>eda keen <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> the Club up to the end <strong>of</strong> his life, <strong>and</strong> waspresent at a meet at Coniston just before his last short illness. Ofthis meet the President writes:—' How little did those <strong>of</strong> us who were at Coniston for the Julymeet th<strong>in</strong>k that with<strong>in</strong> a few days our leader, the well-belovedorig<strong>in</strong>al member, Ormiston-Chant, would be with us no more.The weather at Coniston was not very good, <strong>and</strong> Chant with hisdaughter <strong>and</strong> myself went up—with many stops out <strong>of</strong> respect forO-C's. breathlessness—to Goats Water. After halt<strong>in</strong>g there forour meal, we went on at a suitable speed to the cave, <strong>and</strong> above itto Dow Crag. Chant was out to go right along the foot <strong>of</strong> therocks <strong>and</strong> look once aga<strong>in</strong> at the starts <strong>of</strong> all the climbs, <strong>and</strong> wedid this for the southern half <strong>of</strong> the buttresses. I wonder if heknew it would be his last visit to the rocks where he had spent somany happy hours, <strong>and</strong> on which he had discovered one <strong>of</strong> thebest <strong>of</strong> all the routes — Arete, Chimney <strong>and</strong> Crac\. This littleexpedition may have hastened his end, but I am sure he felt it wasworth it. He enjoyed every m<strong>in</strong>ute <strong>of</strong> that half-hour at the foot<strong>of</strong> the climbs.'
EDITOR'SNOTESThe Whitsuntide meet this year was notable <strong>in</strong> two respects,the gather<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the Salv<strong>in</strong>g House to welcome the Presidenthome, as recorded <strong>in</strong> ' Club Notes <strong>and</strong> Comments'; <strong>and</strong> theCommittee's election <strong>of</strong> four Honorary Members to mark thejubilee year. Mrs. Dorothy Pilley Richards is the first ladymember <strong>of</strong> the Club to be so honoured. As a mounta<strong>in</strong>eer <strong>and</strong>traveller <strong>in</strong> many l<strong>and</strong>s, <strong>and</strong> as a writer, she is widely known, buthas throughout the years reta<strong>in</strong>ed her affection for the Club <strong>and</strong>for Lakel<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> is assured <strong>of</strong> a warm welcome whenever she isable to visit us. The others, P. D. Boothroyd, F. Lawson Cook<strong>and</strong> C. F. Hadfield, are veterans who have all given sterl<strong>in</strong>gservice to the Club over a long period <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> diverse ways, butthey have <strong>in</strong> common a devotion to the Club's welfare, fullparticipation <strong>in</strong> its outdoor activities <strong>and</strong> social life, <strong>and</strong> anabid<strong>in</strong>g regard for the fells <strong>and</strong> dales <strong>of</strong> the Lake country.The atta<strong>in</strong>ment <strong>of</strong> a centenary or jubilee by an organisationsuch as our Club <strong>in</strong>evitably <strong>and</strong> properly causes a backward lookover the years that have passed, <strong>and</strong> the contents <strong>of</strong> this numberreflect this tendency. But, hav<strong>in</strong>g celebrated the Jubilee with allthe fervour <strong>and</strong> enjoyment that are its due, we must look forwardaga<strong>in</strong> to the future, which is especially the heritage <strong>of</strong> the youngergeneration <strong>of</strong> members. Edward Scantlebury once said <strong>of</strong> theClub—' ... it will last as long as there are hills left <strong>in</strong> the LakeDistrict.' And this — <strong>in</strong> spite <strong>of</strong> Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Monkhouse's rathersombre forecast on another page <strong>of</strong> the <strong>in</strong>evitable dis<strong>in</strong>tegration<strong>of</strong> the hills <strong>and</strong> fill<strong>in</strong>g up <strong>of</strong> the lakes—will be quite a long time!When the founders <strong>of</strong> the Club gave it a name they eschewedsuch brief <strong>and</strong> general descriptions as were bestowed on someother clubs founded dur<strong>in</strong>g the same decade — Climbers', Rucksack,Wayfarers'. Instead they chose a comprehensive title notonly <strong>in</strong>dicat<strong>in</strong>g with some precision the Club's <strong>in</strong>tended activities—' <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong> Climb<strong>in</strong>g,' but the well-def<strong>in</strong>ed area <strong>in</strong> whichits corporate life was centred—' the English Lake District.'(Fortunately, perhaps, we can use <strong>in</strong> conversation—<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> song—a shortened version almost as concise as those <strong>of</strong> the k<strong>in</strong>dredclubs referred to). The general design <strong>of</strong> this number <strong>of</strong> theJournal is based on the Club <strong>and</strong> the District, both <strong>in</strong> its literary<strong>and</strong> pictorial contents. Only does it go outside this frameworkwhere the reports <strong>of</strong> club proceed<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>and</strong> book reviews make it
362 EDITOR'S NOTESnecessary. Dur<strong>in</strong>g the whole <strong>of</strong> the Journal's existence membershave told <strong>in</strong> it <strong>of</strong> their activities <strong>in</strong> many parts <strong>of</strong> these isl<strong>and</strong>s,<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> their mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g exploits <strong>and</strong> adventures <strong>in</strong> everycont<strong>in</strong>ent. An exception was made <strong>in</strong> the wonderful Lakel<strong>and</strong>number <strong>of</strong> 1936-7, edited by G. R. Speaker. Now aga<strong>in</strong> weturn to the domestic scene <strong>and</strong> the story <strong>of</strong> our Club, look<strong>in</strong>gforward next year to a resumption <strong>of</strong> the more familiar pattern.To those who have contributed to this number some <strong>of</strong> theirtreasured memories <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong>, or <strong>of</strong> their knowledge<strong>and</strong> enjoyment <strong>of</strong> Lakel<strong>and</strong> through the ages up to the presentday, I tender my thanks <strong>and</strong> appreciation. Their names appear<strong>in</strong> the forego<strong>in</strong>g pages, but I feel that special acknowledgementis due here to Frank Simpson for the immense amount <strong>of</strong> time<strong>and</strong> thought he has given to what he aptly describes as the' constitutional <strong>and</strong> family history ' <strong>of</strong> the Club, <strong>and</strong> for the lucid<strong>and</strong> readable way he has presented it <strong>in</strong> ' The First Fifty <strong>Year</strong>s.'To other members I am much <strong>in</strong>debted for help <strong>and</strong> advice <strong>in</strong>ways too numerous to detail here. I should also like to acknowledge the close <strong>and</strong> cont<strong>in</strong>ued <strong>in</strong>terest the pr<strong>in</strong>ters <strong>and</strong> thoseresponsible for mak<strong>in</strong>g the blocks have shown <strong>in</strong> the production<strong>of</strong> this number.The present enthusiasm for colour photography — it wasorig<strong>in</strong>ally hoped to <strong>in</strong>clude a few plates <strong>in</strong> colour here<strong>in</strong>, but thisproved too costly — seems to have curtailed the output <strong>of</strong> monochromework, <strong>and</strong> few pr<strong>in</strong>ts have been submitted by membersother than those <strong>in</strong>vited by the Editor to contribute. To thesehe is most grateful for send<strong>in</strong>g an almost embarrass<strong>in</strong>g pr<strong>of</strong>usion<strong>of</strong> subjects well worthy <strong>of</strong> reproduction, from which only aselection could be pr<strong>in</strong>ted. In this a slight bias has been exercised<strong>in</strong> favour <strong>of</strong> the neighbourhood <strong>of</strong> Coniston — as the cradle <strong>of</strong>the Club, <strong>and</strong> for long very scantily represented <strong>in</strong> the Journal—<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> the eastern fells, which have also hardly received their due.I am also grateful to W. Heaton Cooper for his f<strong>in</strong>e draw<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>Dow Crag made especially for this number, to Miss Joan Tebbuttfor her tailpieces, which it is a pleasure to see once more, <strong>and</strong> toother members for valuable help <strong>and</strong> good counsel. (See also' Notes on the Alan Craig Photographs' on page 335). Thecost <strong>of</strong> blocks has k<strong>in</strong>dly been contributed by J. C. Appleyard,Miss H. Boothroyd, T. R. Burnett, W. E. Kendrick, R. G. Pl<strong>in</strong>t<strong>and</strong> R. T. Wilson.
EDITOR'S NOTES 363The preparation <strong>of</strong> this number has been clouded by twoevents. Early <strong>in</strong> the year I received from J. W. Diamond thedraft <strong>of</strong> an article on Coniston, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> his letter he told me thathe was return<strong>in</strong>g to hospital <strong>in</strong> Manchester on the next day. Hewent on to suggest that parts <strong>of</strong> his article should be taken witha p<strong>in</strong>ch <strong>of</strong> salt, <strong>and</strong> that it was written with the idea that a littlecontroversy might be healthy. Unhappily he lived only a monthlonger. I have pr<strong>in</strong>ted ' Nowt Caps Coniston ' substantially asit was received, <strong>and</strong> have no doubt that it will be read <strong>in</strong> the spiritthat it was written. Then <strong>in</strong> late July came the pass<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> T. C.Ormiston-Chant, who only a fortnight earlier had attended theConiston meet, as recorded by the President on a previous page.Some months before he had agreed to let me have some earlyclimb<strong>in</strong>g rem<strong>in</strong>iscences, but unfortunately these were not completedat the time <strong>of</strong> his death. Only a few days before thisoccurred I received two photographs he had taken at his lastmeet, <strong>and</strong> one <strong>of</strong> these is reproduced here<strong>in</strong>.When the compilation <strong>of</strong> the list <strong>of</strong> ' Officers <strong>of</strong> the Club,1906-<strong>1956</strong> ' (pr<strong>in</strong>ted at the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> this number) was put<strong>in</strong> h<strong>and</strong>, it soon became evident that some precise def<strong>in</strong>ition <strong>of</strong>' <strong>of</strong>ficer ' was needful. After consultation with a member deeplyversed <strong>in</strong> the draft<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> revision <strong>of</strong> the Club Rules, it wasdecided that Rule 3 <strong>in</strong> its present form should be taken as thebasis. This Rule (<strong>and</strong> its predecessor Rule 2) has been modifiedfrom time to time, <strong>and</strong> prior to 19<strong>50</strong> <strong>in</strong>cluded at different periodsAssistant Officers, specific or <strong>in</strong> general, <strong>in</strong> its scope. Theappo<strong>in</strong>tment <strong>of</strong> these is now provided for <strong>in</strong> Rule 4.To have <strong>in</strong>cluded a complete <strong>and</strong> reliable list <strong>of</strong> AssistantOfficers would have entailed considerable research, <strong>and</strong> to askthe Secretary <strong>and</strong> others, who had already spent a good deal <strong>of</strong>time <strong>in</strong> the matter, to undertake this did not seem justified. Thisdoes not signify any lack <strong>of</strong> appreciation <strong>of</strong> the valuable workAssistant Officers have done, <strong>and</strong> are do<strong>in</strong>g, on behalf <strong>of</strong> theClub. As Editor I have first-h<strong>and</strong> evidence <strong>of</strong> this s<strong>in</strong>ce theappo<strong>in</strong>tment <strong>of</strong> an Assistant a few years ago. The Club alsoowes much to others who do not come with<strong>in</strong> the scope <strong>of</strong> Rule3, the Trustees <strong>of</strong> Club Funds, the Editor <strong>and</strong> writers <strong>of</strong> theGuides, <strong>and</strong> members appo<strong>in</strong>ted for ad hoc purposes from timeto time.
364 EDITOR'S NOTESA study <strong>of</strong> the list <strong>of</strong> Officers referred to above will establishthat the record for length <strong>of</strong> service <strong>in</strong> one <strong>of</strong>fice is held by MissM. R. FitzGibbon, who has been Librarian for no less thantwenty-one years. We venture to <strong>of</strong>fer her our congratulationson this remarkable term. Probably a good many members donot realise what a f<strong>in</strong>e library <strong>of</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g literature theClub possesses, <strong>and</strong> how much Miss FitzGibbon's expert knowledge<strong>and</strong> constant care have enhanced its value. In addition tothe central collection she is also responsible for those housed <strong>in</strong>the Huts, etc., which are such an asset to visitors, especiallydur<strong>in</strong>g a summer like the present. It may be noticed that theaccount <strong>of</strong> ' The First Fifty <strong>Year</strong>s ' makes little reference to theLibrary, the author hav<strong>in</strong>g received editorial advice that thesubject was be<strong>in</strong>g dealt with <strong>in</strong> a separate article. Unfortunatelythis project did not mature, but perhaps the omission may beremedied <strong>in</strong> a future issue.I th<strong>in</strong>k that it was about 1928 that the Club's Rule 2 wasrevised to <strong>in</strong>clude among its ' objects ' the protection <strong>of</strong> theamenities <strong>of</strong> the District; but long before that it had shown avery lively concern <strong>in</strong> the subject. Many matters came undernotice, the Styhead <strong>and</strong> other road projects, build<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> thedales, forestry, advertis<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> litter. On the more positive sidethere was the Club's own War Memorial. Later the pages <strong>of</strong>the Journal <strong>and</strong> Committee proceed<strong>in</strong>gs confirm the Club's preoccupationwith ' guard<strong>in</strong>g the sanctuary ' <strong>and</strong> its support <strong>of</strong> theNational Park movement. Quite recently the Club was representedat an enquiry <strong>of</strong> some importance <strong>in</strong> opposition to an<strong>in</strong>dustrial development <strong>in</strong> the heart <strong>of</strong> Eskdale.The Royal Commission on Commons is at present sitt<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong>the matter is <strong>of</strong> great importance, not only to the farm<strong>in</strong>g community,but also to those who now enjoy the right <strong>of</strong> access tolarge areas <strong>of</strong> common l<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> to whose <strong>in</strong>terests enclosure ona larger scale would be very adverse. The whole subject is verycomplex, but those who desire a clear <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g exposition<strong>of</strong> the problems <strong>in</strong>volved, especially <strong>in</strong> the Lake District, willf<strong>in</strong>d it <strong>in</strong> the written evidence tendered to the Commission by theFriends <strong>of</strong> the La\e District, which is pr<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> full <strong>in</strong> theSociety's Annual Report for <strong>1956</strong>.When our member, the Rev. H. H. Symonds, retired from thechairmanship <strong>of</strong> the ' Friends ' last year, the Club Committee
EDITOR'S NOTES 365conveyed to him its warm appreciation <strong>of</strong> the work he had doneover so many years <strong>in</strong> preserv<strong>in</strong>g the beauty <strong>of</strong> the Lake District.S<strong>in</strong>ce then Mr. Symonds has also retired from the Lake DistrictPlann<strong>in</strong>g Board, on which he had served s<strong>in</strong>ce its formation.Happily we can be assured that this eas<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> responsibilities, solong shouldered, <strong>in</strong> no way <strong>in</strong>dicates any lessen<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the s<strong>in</strong>glem<strong>in</strong>deddevotion H. H. Symonds has given to the cause <strong>of</strong>' beauty, seeml<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>and</strong> orderl<strong>in</strong>ess ' (as the ' amenities ' haverccendy been described) <strong>in</strong> the Lake District. No man has donemore <strong>in</strong> the endeavour to preserve the beauty <strong>of</strong> its fells <strong>and</strong> dalesfor posterity, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> prevent<strong>in</strong>g the blight <strong>of</strong> ' sub-topia ' from<strong>in</strong>vad<strong>in</strong>g its villages <strong>and</strong> sully<strong>in</strong>g its lakes.Like the <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong>, the Wayfarers' Club is celebrat<strong>in</strong>g itsJubilee this year. One <strong>of</strong> our orig<strong>in</strong>al members, Dr. G. Barlow,has <strong>in</strong> his possession several letters he received from the lateGeorge Seatree towards the end <strong>of</strong> 1906. In one <strong>of</strong> these (whichhe k<strong>in</strong>dly permits me to quote) dated 17th November, 1906, thewriter mentions that—' Last week I attended a meet<strong>in</strong>g at theLiverpool University at which a local C.C. was formed with anold Cumbd. climber, Pr<strong>of</strong>. Wilberforce, as first President . . .*So the Wayfarers can perhaps claim seniority by a few days!However that may be, the two Clubs have a special community<strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>terest as neighbours at Raw Head <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> many personalways, <strong>and</strong> our members will hope for its cont<strong>in</strong>uance for manyyears to come.Just as these notes were ready for the pr<strong>in</strong>ters the news came<strong>of</strong> the sudden death, on 27th August, <strong>of</strong> Dr. T. R. Burnett, atthe age <strong>of</strong> seventy-n<strong>in</strong>e. Throughout the Club's history few canhave been accorded <strong>in</strong> fuller measure the affection <strong>and</strong> regard <strong>of</strong>their fellow members. But, while we mourn his pass<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> willsorely miss his genial presence at our gather<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>and</strong> wise counsel<strong>in</strong> our affairs, we can be glad that his end came <strong>in</strong> the way hewould have wished, <strong>and</strong> amongst the hills he loved. A fulltribute must needs be held over to the next Journal; but, as thesewill be my last ' Editor's Notes,' perhaps I may say how much Iowe to T.R.B. dur<strong>in</strong>g the time I have been Editor, both for hisearly <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>and</strong> encouragement, <strong>and</strong> for the help <strong>and</strong> advicehe gave so readily right up to the end.August, <strong>1956</strong>.W. GEOFFREY STEVENS.
ANNUAL DINNER, 1955A. H. Griff<strong>in</strong>The Annual General Meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> D<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>of</strong> 1955 had about themmuch <strong>of</strong> the atmosphere, if not <strong>of</strong> the calm before the storm, certa<strong>in</strong>ly <strong>of</strong>the calm before the Jubilee celebrations. The Jubilee President (Dr.Howard Somervell), be<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> India, was unable to be present, but wasstated to be among us <strong>in</strong> spirit. Orig<strong>in</strong>al Member Ormiston-Chantannounced that after great research he <strong>and</strong> others with the matter at heartwere satisfied that <strong>1956</strong> was, <strong>in</strong> fact, the Jubilee year <strong>of</strong> the Club.Much <strong>of</strong> the bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>of</strong> the A.G.M. was taken up with the alteration <strong>of</strong>one or two <strong>of</strong> the Rules, <strong>and</strong> the addition <strong>of</strong> a new one deal<strong>in</strong>g withtemporary membership. Lawson Cook stated that the deliberations overthese matters had taken two years <strong>and</strong> that A. B. Hargreaves <strong>and</strong> F. H. F.Simpson had been primarily <strong>in</strong>volved. At times it looked rather like thesplitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> hairs, but we were assured that the alterations were reallyquite important <strong>and</strong>, <strong>in</strong> effect, enabled the Club to have more control overall people us<strong>in</strong>g the Club huts. In the end the alterations were allapproved without a dissentient voice.H. P. Spilsbury, who occupied the chair, <strong>and</strong> J. R. Files were thankedfor their services as Vice-Presidents, R. G. Pl<strong>in</strong>t <strong>and</strong> W. E. Kendrick werewelcomed <strong>in</strong> their place <strong>and</strong> the work dur<strong>in</strong>g the year <strong>of</strong> the other <strong>of</strong>ficers(notably the Honorary Secretary) were praised. A rem<strong>in</strong>der <strong>of</strong> theexistence <strong>of</strong> the Mount Everest Foundation, which <strong>in</strong> certa<strong>in</strong> circumstancescan make grants for approved exploration <strong>and</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g workabroad, concluded the bus<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>of</strong> the meet<strong>in</strong>g.The Royal Oak Hotel, Keswick, was aga<strong>in</strong> crowded for the AnnualD<strong>in</strong>ner, <strong>and</strong> once aga<strong>in</strong> all the d<strong>in</strong>ers could not be accommodated <strong>in</strong> thema<strong>in</strong> room, although everyone was present for the speeches. Spilsburyhad been promoted from the enterta<strong>in</strong>ers' table to the presidential chair,where he seemed equally at home.Charles Evans, leader <strong>of</strong> the successful Kangchenjunga expedition <strong>and</strong>one <strong>of</strong> its members, John Jackson, were the pr<strong>in</strong>cipal guests. Propos<strong>in</strong>gthe toast <strong>of</strong> the Club, Evans referred to his previous visits to the LakeDistrict, notably his first <strong>in</strong> 1942 when he walked over from Langdale toBrackenclose <strong>and</strong> enjoyed some <strong>of</strong> the f<strong>in</strong>est days <strong>in</strong> the hills he couldever remember. On a recent visit to Langdale he <strong>and</strong> George B<strong>and</strong> hadbeen accompanied <strong>in</strong> their car by two Sherpas. Without them they wouldhave been <strong>in</strong> difficulty, for not only had one <strong>of</strong> the Sherpas to show themwhere the hut was, but the other had to f<strong>in</strong>d the key <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>dicate how toturn on the calor gas. He hoped to be able to do better than this <strong>in</strong> future<strong>and</strong> visit Lakel<strong>and</strong> more regularly. At the same time he urged <strong>Fell</strong> U<strong>Rock</strong> climbers to visit Wales more <strong>of</strong>ten; it might be a foreign countrywith, perhaps, rather primitive habits, but was a wonderful place forclimb<strong>in</strong>g. Evans delighted us with some stories <strong>of</strong> Kangchenjunga <strong>and</strong>afterwards, but skilfully avoided be<strong>in</strong>g serious for very long.In his reply the Chairman, who described himself rather disparag<strong>in</strong>glyas ' the odd sock,' assured us that the Club was as active as ever, with theusual crop <strong>of</strong> new climbs — some <strong>of</strong> them climbable — <strong>and</strong> good atten-
ANNUAL DINNER 367dances at meets, particularly the New <strong>Year</strong> meet, which was beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g tolook like a Blackpool conference.The Scottish meet was also becom<strong>in</strong>g ' over-subscribed.' He thought thatsome <strong>of</strong> us were <strong>in</strong>cl<strong>in</strong>ed to overlook the fact that probably a majority <strong>of</strong>our members were more concerned with fell walk<strong>in</strong>g than rock climb<strong>in</strong>g.' It is arguable,' he cont<strong>in</strong>ued, ' that the person who can f<strong>in</strong>d his way overrough, <strong>in</strong>tricate fell country <strong>in</strong> all sorts <strong>of</strong> weather, may be just as mucha mounta<strong>in</strong>eer as the man who goes up all k<strong>in</strong>ds <strong>of</strong> impossible routes. Ido not wish <strong>in</strong> any way to decry the delights <strong>of</strong> rock climb<strong>in</strong>g, but it isnot perhaps the whole cheese.'After congratulat<strong>in</strong>g Stevens on his excellent Journal, Spilsbury referredto the pride they all felt <strong>in</strong> the recent achievements <strong>of</strong> two <strong>of</strong> ourmembers, John Jackson <strong>and</strong> Alf Gregory. He thought that much <strong>of</strong> thesuccess <strong>of</strong> the Kangchenjunga expedition had been due to Charles Evanshav<strong>in</strong>g fitted men from so many different walks <strong>of</strong> life <strong>in</strong>to such a happy<strong>and</strong> splendid team. Sir John Hunt had described the ascent as ' one <strong>of</strong>the greatest mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g feats ever accomplished.' The youngestmember <strong>of</strong> the party, on the other h<strong>and</strong>, thought it was ' just a hard,ruddy plug!'We all applauded the presence at the d<strong>in</strong>ner <strong>of</strong> three orig<strong>in</strong>al members—George Abraham, Ormiston-Chant <strong>and</strong> Jonathan Stables. ' The featswhich these old members accomplished,' said Spilsbury, ' were just asremarkable <strong>in</strong> their day as any carried out now. Every year the st<strong>and</strong>ardis pushed higher <strong>and</strong> higher <strong>and</strong> some <strong>of</strong> us wonder where it will end.'The toast <strong>of</strong> ' Guests <strong>and</strong> K<strong>in</strong>dred Clubs ' was proposed by Gregory,who, after one or two cracks at his old Everest colleague, Evans, congratulatedhim <strong>and</strong> Jackson most heartily on ' a great show.'While welcom<strong>in</strong>g the <strong>of</strong>ficial guests <strong>of</strong> the Club, Gregory also notedthe presence at the d<strong>in</strong>ner among the rank <strong>and</strong> file at the lower tables <strong>of</strong>another ' Everester '—Mike Westmacott. H. R. C. Carr, President <strong>of</strong> theClimbers' Club, replied benignly on behalf <strong>of</strong> the guests.The enterta<strong>in</strong>ment was provided by John Hirst <strong>and</strong> Lawson Cook, thelatter deputis<strong>in</strong>g for the ' odd sock' presid<strong>in</strong>g over the gather<strong>in</strong>g. Beforewe went away to talk with friends, Mrs. Spilsbury, <strong>in</strong> thank<strong>in</strong>g Mr. Beck<strong>and</strong> his staff, reported that there had been 316 <strong>of</strong> us to d<strong>in</strong>ner •— almosta record number.A cold w<strong>in</strong>d failed to damp our spirits on the Sunday <strong>and</strong> scores wereout on the crags <strong>and</strong> fells enjoy<strong>in</strong>g the autumn sunsh<strong>in</strong>e. After teaCharles Evans delighted us by show<strong>in</strong>g part <strong>of</strong> the Kangchenjunga film;although it may not always have been perfect photography (how could itbe under such circumstances?) it demonstrated as no 'stills' could, howevil the w<strong>in</strong>d can be at high altitudes, whipp<strong>in</strong>g up the powder snow tosear the flesh <strong>and</strong> mak<strong>in</strong>g life almost unbearable. It was certa<strong>in</strong>ly nopicnic on Kangchenjunga!
368THE CONQUEROR OF KANCHENJUNGA.When Charles was but a t<strong>in</strong>y lad, he loved the open spaces.He used to make his parents sad by go<strong>in</strong>g to distant places.He always shunned publicity, for he is no lime-light monger,But he can't avoid it now that he has conquered Kanchenjunga.Although we were impressed, ha! ha!By his work on Everest, ha! ha!We hardly dared to hope that his genius could copeWith the conquer<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> Kanchenjunga.As a surgeon <strong>of</strong> the highest skill, Hunt thought he'd picked a w<strong>in</strong>ner,When select<strong>in</strong>g Charles as the one to kill a beast to be cooked for d<strong>in</strong>ner.When he failed, George Lowe, who was <strong>in</strong> the know, averted the pangs <strong>of</strong>hunger,Charles hadn't got the knack <strong>of</strong> butcher<strong>in</strong>g a yak, tho' he's conqueredKanchenjunga.When he shot it through the bra<strong>in</strong>, ha! ha!It w<strong>and</strong>ered <strong>of</strong>f aga<strong>in</strong>, ha! ha!' It's a sovereign to a penny that the creature hasn't any.'Said the conqueror <strong>of</strong> Kanchenjunga.He's a lad who knows just when to stop—the l<strong>in</strong>e <strong>of</strong> least resistance.So his henchmen did not reach the top, though with<strong>in</strong> spitt<strong>in</strong>g distance.To the Sikkimese he'd had to state, — <strong>in</strong> his cheek he had his tongue, ah!That none <strong>of</strong> them would desecrate the summit <strong>of</strong> Kanchenjunga.The sa<strong>in</strong>tly Sikkimese ha! ha!Are very hard to please ha! ha!So they stopped, we know, six feet belowThe summit <strong>of</strong> Kanchenjunga.May Charles's climb<strong>in</strong>g days be long, that lad so lion-hearted.No doubt he'll still be go<strong>in</strong>g strong, long after we've departed.But there'll come a time for his f<strong>in</strong>al climb, for alas! he grows no younger,And he'll have to go alone <strong>and</strong> do it on his own — so different fromKanchenjunga.And they will not make him stop, ha! ha ISix feet below the top, ha! ha!For be sure, the son <strong>of</strong> Evan will be welcomedHeaven,Which is higher than Kanchenjunga.up <strong>in</strong>J.H.Sung by John Hirst at the Annual D<strong>in</strong>ner on 39th October, 1955.
CLUB NOTES AND COMMENTSThe large gather<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> the Club <strong>in</strong> Borrowdale at Whitsuntide, <strong>1956</strong>,provided an ideal opportunity for welcom<strong>in</strong>g the President home fromIndia, <strong>and</strong> a most enjoyable tea-party was held at the Salv<strong>in</strong>g House onWhit Sunday. After Mr. P. D. Boothroyd, ably assisted by the Vice-Presidents, had expressed the great pleasure felt by the Club at hav<strong>in</strong>g thePresident <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> aga<strong>in</strong>, the assembled company did full justice to theexcellent tea prepared by the Salv<strong>in</strong>g House residents. For the superbiced cake decorated with a sugar replica <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong> badge wewere <strong>in</strong>debted to Edward Wormell, whose cul<strong>in</strong>ary skill, almost startl<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong> a schoolmaster, tempts one to suggest that he should be given <strong>of</strong>ficialstatus as Club Confectioner.Every year a number <strong>of</strong> crag-fast sheep owe their lives to climbers <strong>and</strong>two recent rescues deserve particular mention here. In January, <strong>1956</strong>,Harry Griff<strong>in</strong> received the R.S.P.C.A.'s silver medal <strong>and</strong> a citationcertificate for rescu<strong>in</strong>g two sheep from Whitbarrow Scar <strong>in</strong> March, 1955,<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> May this year the Keswick Mounta<strong>in</strong> Rescue Team, <strong>in</strong> the person<strong>of</strong> Rusty Westmorl<strong>and</strong>, was concerned for several hours <strong>in</strong> sav<strong>in</strong>g two ewesmarooned on Honister Crag. We are delighted to congratulate Rusty onhav<strong>in</strong>g led Eagle's Nest Direct shortly after celebrat<strong>in</strong>g his seventiethbirthday.In 19=56 the attraction <strong>of</strong> Antarctica for <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Rock</strong> members wasgreater than ever. Donald Atk<strong>in</strong>son is complet<strong>in</strong>g his second year withthe Falkl<strong>and</strong> Isl<strong>and</strong>s Dependencies' Survey <strong>and</strong> is reported to havederived so much enjoyment from sea bath<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> high latitudes that he hassigned on for a third year. Ron Miller <strong>and</strong> John Thompson jo<strong>in</strong>ed theSurvey team early this year <strong>and</strong> John was on H.M.S. Protector when shewent to the help <strong>of</strong> the ice-bound Trans-Antartic Expedition ship, Theron.George Spenceley <strong>and</strong> Tom Price left Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> August, 1955, with thethird <strong>and</strong> f<strong>in</strong>al South Georgia Expedition <strong>and</strong> returned <strong>in</strong> May hav<strong>in</strong>ghelped <strong>in</strong> chart<strong>in</strong>g 95% <strong>of</strong> this sub-Antarctic isl<strong>and</strong>. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to aManchester Guardian report dated November, 1955, John Bechervaiseis the <strong>of</strong>ficer <strong>in</strong> charge <strong>of</strong> the Australian Antarctic base at Mawson <strong>and</strong> isthe leader <strong>of</strong> a prospect<strong>in</strong>g expedition <strong>in</strong>to a mounta<strong>in</strong> range which is saidto rise to 10,000 feet 300 miles <strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong> over the Antarctic plateau.N. E. Odell, after a number <strong>of</strong> years <strong>in</strong> New Zeal<strong>and</strong> (as Pr<strong>of</strong>essor <strong>of</strong>Geology at Otago University), has returned to this country. He travelledby way <strong>of</strong> Hawaii (for its volcanoes), the States <strong>and</strong> Canada. His presentaddress is Clare College, Cambridge.Bentley Beetham has cont<strong>in</strong>ued his tour <strong>of</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong> ranges <strong>of</strong> theworld. Five days was the period allotted to Chile on a voyage whoseculm<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>terest was the sight <strong>of</strong> a pengu<strong>in</strong> ' rookery ' <strong>in</strong> the Falkl<strong>and</strong>Isl<strong>and</strong>s, but with the help <strong>of</strong> members <strong>of</strong> the local Alp<strong>in</strong>e Club, <strong>of</strong> whichhe was made an honorary member, he managed to set foot on the Andes.He says feel<strong>in</strong>gly that the seventeen hour car-ride (this was the timeoccupied by the journey there <strong>and</strong> back) to the high pass whence theparty proceeded on foot, was the most excit<strong>in</strong>g part <strong>of</strong> the expedition.From North America comes news that John Wharton, now resident <strong>in</strong>
370 CLUB NOTES AND COMMENTSAlabama, has had excellent climb<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Colorado on the granite <strong>of</strong> theEast face <strong>of</strong> Long's Peak.Harry <strong>and</strong> Ruth Spilsbury enjoyed an unusual summer holiday <strong>in</strong> theL<strong>of</strong>oten Isl<strong>and</strong>s where the pleasures to be derived from the mounta<strong>in</strong>s<strong>and</strong> the sea can be comb<strong>in</strong>ed. It was a return pilgrimage for Harry, <strong>and</strong>everyth<strong>in</strong>g came up to expectations except the weather. Those who stayed<strong>in</strong> the British Isles certa<strong>in</strong>ly made the best choice for the summer <strong>of</strong> 1955.Largely ow<strong>in</strong>g to bad weather, noth<strong>in</strong>g outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g was accomplishedby Club members <strong>in</strong> the Alps; <strong>in</strong> the conditions prevail<strong>in</strong>g JohnWilk<strong>in</strong>son's party found the Rochefort Arete a more formidable undertak<strong>in</strong>gthan routes <strong>of</strong> a technically much higher st<strong>and</strong>ard <strong>in</strong> a normalseason.In March there was aga<strong>in</strong> what might be called an un<strong>of</strong>ficial <strong>Fell</strong> <strong>and</strong><strong>Rock</strong> Ski Meet at Solden, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> April a small group <strong>of</strong> keen skiers madean enjoyable traverse <strong>of</strong> the High Level Route from Argentiere to Saas-Fee. Jack Blackshaw, who learnt to ski at the age <strong>of</strong> seventy (or thereabouts),has decided that there is someth<strong>in</strong>g to be said for break<strong>in</strong>g a leg,provided that it is arranged for the last day <strong>of</strong> the holidays <strong>and</strong> that ithappens <strong>in</strong> Norway. The pleasure <strong>of</strong> be<strong>in</strong>g looked after by charm<strong>in</strong>gnurses is then followed by de luxe travel, with everyone, from the ship'scapta<strong>in</strong> to the railway porters, comb<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g to ensure the victim's everycomfort. To make certa<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> be<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> good form for next season's ski<strong>in</strong>ghe has enthusiastically taken up roller skat<strong>in</strong>g.Last, but by no means least, it is a great pleasure to express the Club'sgood wishes to Ruth Langford <strong>and</strong> Harry Ironfield who were married <strong>in</strong>Borrowdale on 1st September.M.L.F.
LONDON SECTION, 1955Although rather fewer walks have been held this year, they havegenerally been well attended <strong>and</strong> cont<strong>in</strong>ue to be popular with members <strong>of</strong>the London Section. These walks are, <strong>in</strong> fact, the ma<strong>in</strong> activity throughoutthe year, <strong>and</strong> are a very pleasant way <strong>of</strong> keep<strong>in</strong>g contact <strong>in</strong> a ratherscattered membership around London <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> the Home Counties. It isbelieved also that these walks do play some part <strong>in</strong> keep<strong>in</strong>g legs <strong>and</strong>muscles <strong>in</strong> trim for the mounta<strong>in</strong>s <strong>and</strong> fells. Anyhow, although vary<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong> length <strong>and</strong> roughness <strong>of</strong> walk<strong>in</strong>g, they are never mere strolls <strong>and</strong> roadwalk<strong>in</strong>g is eschewed. Our thanks are due to those members who arewill<strong>in</strong>g to lead walks regularly <strong>and</strong> who take so much trouble to prospect<strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g routes. We also hope <strong>and</strong> believe that dur<strong>in</strong>g the com<strong>in</strong>g yearwe shall have some new leaders to replace those who, for one reason oranother, have had to give up.The first 'event' <strong>of</strong> 1955 was a work<strong>in</strong>g party arranged by Mrs.Garrod to sort <strong>and</strong> prepare material for the Brackenclose rug. Those whowent to Harpenden will wish to thank her for her hospitality on that coldFebruary day. But she <strong>and</strong> her b<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> helpers put <strong>in</strong> a great deal <strong>of</strong>work over many weeks, the result <strong>of</strong> which can be seen at Brackenclose,where the rug arrived <strong>in</strong> time for Easter.On 27th February M. N. Clarke, on a very bright day, led fromCl<strong>and</strong>on along the Wey towpath to Guildford. Between Send <strong>and</strong> Guildfordthis little river, together with its backwaters <strong>and</strong> lock-cuts, <strong>of</strong>fersmany surprises <strong>and</strong> made an <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g route to follow. A month lateron 27th March we were aga<strong>in</strong> lucky with the weather for a splendidround led by J. E. L. Clements from Watford <strong>in</strong> the Chiltern country.This time we had the charm<strong>in</strong>g little rivers <strong>of</strong> the Colne <strong>and</strong> Chess ascompanions on our way to the Chiltern ridges. The annual jo<strong>in</strong>t walkwith the London Section <strong>of</strong> the Rucksack Club on 24th April started fromWok<strong>in</strong>g with rough walk<strong>in</strong>g over the s<strong>and</strong>y Chobham ridges. The daywas aga<strong>in</strong> bright <strong>and</strong> clear <strong>and</strong> we had magnificent views across theheather. Tea was at the Wheatsheaf at Virg<strong>in</strong>ia Water.In May, Stella Joy led us through the Valley Gardens <strong>in</strong> W<strong>in</strong>dsor GreatPark when the shrubs <strong>and</strong> flowers, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the numerous species <strong>of</strong> bogplants, were at their best. The rhododendrons were also very lovely. Noscal<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> any <strong>of</strong> the old monuments, <strong>in</strong> which the park abounds, wasattempted but we were all very ready for tea, aga<strong>in</strong> k<strong>in</strong>dly provided byStella Joy, at W<strong>in</strong>dsor.A walk had been arranged for 5th June, to be led by Ian Clayton fromLewes, but had to be cancelled because <strong>of</strong> the rail strike. In July SirEdw<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> Lady Herbert aga<strong>in</strong> k<strong>in</strong>dly <strong>in</strong>vited us to Blackheath <strong>and</strong>'R. Tyssen-Gee led the walk on a real scorcher <strong>of</strong> a day, so that the partywere glad to subside <strong>in</strong>to the comfort <strong>of</strong> deck chairs <strong>in</strong> Sir Edw<strong>in</strong>'s cool<strong>and</strong> fragrant garden, after cross<strong>in</strong>g the s<strong>and</strong>y wastes <strong>of</strong> Blackheath.In October M. N. Clarke was to have led us from Horsley but wasprevented by illness <strong>and</strong> the necessity for an urgent operation (from whichwe are very glad to say he has now completely recovered), so the WalksSecretary deputised for him. It was a day <strong>of</strong> low cloud which somewhatdulled the splendour <strong>of</strong> the autumn t<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>in</strong> the great woods above Shere.This walk was notable <strong>in</strong> that the leader was armed with a special permitto walk through the park <strong>of</strong> Hatchl<strong>and</strong>s, a property <strong>of</strong> the National Trust,J
372 LONDON SECTIONonly open to the public on Wednesdays. We were thus saved a considerableamount <strong>of</strong> road walk<strong>in</strong>g to reach our dest<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>and</strong> tea atHorsley, <strong>and</strong> the park was well worth visit<strong>in</strong>g.13th November was the date <strong>of</strong> Ian Clayton's walk postponed fromJune <strong>and</strong>, <strong>in</strong> spite <strong>of</strong> the lateness <strong>of</strong> the season, we had a refresh<strong>in</strong>g walkon the Sussex Downs on a day <strong>of</strong> cloud shadows <strong>and</strong> gleams <strong>of</strong> autumnsunlight sweep<strong>in</strong>g the high bare downs. We were able to lunch <strong>in</strong> theshelter <strong>of</strong> a haystack, carved <strong>in</strong>to convenient niches <strong>in</strong> which the walkerscould ensconce themselves <strong>in</strong> a most comfortable way. The downl<strong>and</strong>villages <strong>of</strong> K<strong>in</strong>gston <strong>and</strong> Telscombe, nestl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the protective folds <strong>of</strong> thehills, were very attractive as also the walk along the cliffs above Newhaven,reached through a maze <strong>of</strong> brambles <strong>in</strong> which some members were nearlysubmerged. Newhaven may be an important port, but was quite unableto provide tea for a hungry party <strong>of</strong> walkers on a November Sundayafternoon, so a convenient tra<strong>in</strong> took us back to Lewes where the leader'skilt proved irresistible <strong>in</strong> gett<strong>in</strong>g us tea!The last walk <strong>of</strong> the year, <strong>and</strong> the only wet one, was the ' D<strong>in</strong>ner 'walk on nth December, led by the Walks Secretary from Leatherhead.We were particularly pleased to have with us Roma<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> ElizabethHervey who had come up from Cambridge for the d<strong>in</strong>ner. It was as hillya walk as the leader could f<strong>in</strong>d from Mickleham Downs by the greasychalk slide to the Headley Road, up aga<strong>in</strong> to Juniper Top <strong>and</strong> Box Hill,down aga<strong>in</strong> to Burford Bridge (lunch), up aga<strong>in</strong> to Ranmore, down toTanners Hatch <strong>and</strong> f<strong>in</strong>ally up <strong>and</strong> over Fetcham Downs to Bookham <strong>and</strong>Leatherhead, where we were all glad to be greeted by a roar<strong>in</strong>g fire atYe Olde Ris<strong>in</strong>g Sun.Our annual meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> d<strong>in</strong>ner was held at the Connaught Rooms on10th December, with Dr. Hadfield <strong>in</strong> the Chair. The Section wouldnot seem complete without him. The ' bus<strong>in</strong>ess ' was disposed <strong>of</strong> withthe usual alacrity <strong>and</strong> at n<strong>in</strong>e o'clock we drank the time-honoured toast<strong>of</strong> ' Absent Friends.' We were delighted to welcome as guests BasilGoodfellow (Alp<strong>in</strong>e Club), P. Turner (Imperial College Mounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>gClub), Alan Deane (Rucksack Club), J. A. G. Emery (Oxford UniversityMounta<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g Club), <strong>and</strong> Miss F. M. Wilkie from our own Club. Thetoast <strong>of</strong> the guests was proposed by Graham Wilson <strong>and</strong> Basil Goodfellowreplied <strong>in</strong> a delightful speech. Miss Wilkie also recited some <strong>of</strong> herpoems, which brought a breath <strong>of</strong> the fells to the Connaught Rooms. Inall it was voted a most successful even<strong>in</strong>g. R ^ TYSSEN-GEEE. W. HAMILTON.OFFICERS OF THE LONDON SECTION, 1920-<strong>1956</strong>Chairman:1920-56 C. F. HADFIELD.Secretary <strong>and</strong> Treasurer:1920-25 Miss D. E. PILLEY (Mrs. I. A. Richards).1925-42 G. R. SPEAKER.1942-47 Mrs. M. GARROD.1947-56 R. A. TYSSEN-GEE.Walks Secretary :1947-56 E. W. HAMILTON.