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AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 9, No1, March 2009 © AUTEXSOME STUDIES ON DYEING PROPERTIES OF COTTON FABRICS WITH CROCUSSATIVUS (SAFFRON) (FLOWERS) USING AN ULTRASONIC METHODAbstract:M.M. Kamel, H.M. Helmy, and N.S. El HawaryNati<strong>on</strong>al Research Centre, Textile Research Divisi<strong>on</strong>, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt,E-mail: m<strong>on</strong>a_kamel_nrc@yahoo.comKey words:Cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> were dyed <strong>with</strong> natural colouring matter extracted from Crocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>) using a traditi<strong>on</strong>alheating method and a power ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method. Factors affecting the <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>properties</strong> such as pH values, saltc<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong>, temperature, durati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>dyeing</strong> bath, and ultras<strong>on</strong>ic power were studied. Envir<strong>on</strong>mentally friendlymordants were used in pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, and simultaneous-mordanting methods. The fastness<strong>properties</strong> including light, washing, and perspirati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> dyed and mordanted <strong>fabrics</strong> were assessed. Colourstrength (K/S) was measured for dyed and dyed mordanted cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong>.Dyeing, cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong>, saffr<strong>on</strong>, ultras<strong>on</strong>ic energy1. Introducti<strong>on</strong>There are <strong>on</strong>ly two or three places in the world where Crocussativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>) grows. Kashmir has the proud privilege <strong>of</strong>being <strong>on</strong>e <strong>of</strong> these places. The Crocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>) plantis very small and its flower is the <strong>on</strong>ly part which is seenabove the ground. The blooming time <strong>of</strong> this flower is autumn.Crocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>) has a unique sweet smell and it isused in <strong>dyeing</strong> and cooking [13].In this work a natural dye was extracted from Crocus sativuspowder [5–6]. The effects <strong>of</strong> c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> colouring matter,salt, different mordant types <strong>with</strong> different methods, pH,temperature, durati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>dyeing</strong> bath, and ultras<strong>on</strong>ic powerwere studied for both the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method and the ultras<strong>on</strong>icenergy method <strong>of</strong> <strong>dyeing</strong>. Also, the fastness <strong>properties</strong> <strong>of</strong> dyedand simultaneously, pre-, and post-dyed mordanted <strong>fabrics</strong>were evaluated [14–17].2. Experimental2.1. Materials2.1.1. Natural colouring matterThe colouring substance used in this work was extractedfrom the Crocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>) plant.2.1.2. FabricsMill-scoured and bleached cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> (130 g/m 2 ) werekindly supplied by Misr El Beida Co. Egypt.2.1.3. MordantsThe following mordants were used: potassium aluminiumsulphate, copper sulphate, stannous chloride, ferroussulphate, and tannic acid. They were pure grade chemicals[8, 9].2.2. Methods2.2.1. Extracti<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> natural colouring matter fromCrocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>)Crocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>) was crushed to the powder form andthen the colouring matter was extracted using 2–12g <strong>of</strong> thepowder in 100 ml water at the boil for <strong>on</strong>e hour, after which thesoluti<strong>on</strong> was filtered <strong>of</strong>f and left to cool down.2.2.2. Dyeing methodsDyeing <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> using traditi<strong>on</strong>al methodCott<strong>on</strong> fabric samples (0.5 g each) were dyed <strong>with</strong> the naturalcolouring matter extracted from Crocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>) at aliquor ratio <strong>of</strong> 1:50. Dyeing was carried out at different pHvalues (3–8) using different c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong>s <strong>of</strong> sodiumchloride, <strong>dyeing</strong> durati<strong>on</strong>s, and temperatures as in the text.The fabric samples were immersed in the <strong>dyeing</strong> soluti<strong>on</strong> ina water bath at 40 °C. The <strong>fabrics</strong> were dyed for differentlengths <strong>of</strong> time and the dyed samples were rinsed <strong>with</strong> coldwater and washed for 30 minutes in a bath c<strong>on</strong>taining 3 g/L <strong>of</strong>n<strong>on</strong>-i<strong>on</strong>ic detergent at 45 °C. Finally, the <strong>fabrics</strong> were rinsedand air dried.Dyeing <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> using ultras<strong>on</strong>ic energy methodCott<strong>on</strong> fabric samples (0.5 g each) were dyed <strong>with</strong> the naturalcolouring matter extracted from Crocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>) at aliquor ratio <strong>of</strong> 1:50. Dyeing was performed at different pHvalues using different c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong>s <strong>of</strong> sodium chloride,<strong>dyeing</strong> durati<strong>on</strong>s, and temperatures as well as different powerlevels <strong>of</strong> ultras<strong>on</strong>ic energy as shown later. The <strong>fabrics</strong> wereimmersed in the <strong>dyeing</strong> soluti<strong>on</strong> and subjected to ultrasoundat 40 °C for different lengths <strong>of</strong> time and power levels. Fixati<strong>on</strong><strong>of</strong> the Crocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>) colour was carried out asbefore. The samples were rinsed <strong>with</strong> cold water and thenwashed for 30 minutes in a bath c<strong>on</strong>taining 3 g/L <strong>of</strong> n<strong>on</strong>-i<strong>on</strong>icdetergent at 45 °C. Finally, the <strong>fabrics</strong> were rinsed and airdried.Mordanting <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong>The three methods <strong>of</strong> mordanting (pre-, simultaneous, andpost-mordanting) were used to dye cott<strong>on</strong> fabric <strong>with</strong> naturalcolouring matter extracted from Crocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>) [7,11, and 12]. Different comm<strong>on</strong> mordant salts were used <strong>with</strong>permitted c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong>s which are given in the literature [8]for envir<strong>on</strong>mentally friendly textiles.http://www.autexrj.org/No1-2009/ 0266.pdf29


AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 9, No1, March 2009 © AUTEX2.3. Testing2.3.1. Colour measurements <strong>of</strong> the dyed <strong>fabrics</strong> [10]The colour yields <strong>of</strong> both the dyed and mordant samples wereevaluated by the light reflectance technique using a Perkin-Elmer UV/V Spectrophotometer (model Lambda 3B). Thecolour strength (K/S value) was assessed using the Kubelka-Munk equati<strong>on</strong>.2.3.2. Fastness <strong>properties</strong>The washing, dry and wet rubbing, acid and alkalineperspirati<strong>on</strong>, and light fastness were evaluated according tostandard methods [1–4].3. Results and discussi<strong>on</strong>3.1. Factors affecting <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>with</strong> anatural dye extracted from Crocus sativus(saffr<strong>on</strong>) in the powder form3.1.1. C<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> the dyeThe coloured soluti<strong>on</strong>s were extracted by boiling differentamounts <strong>of</strong> Crocus sativus (flowers) in powder form in a fixedamount <strong>of</strong> water (100 ml) and used at different pH values for<strong>dyeing</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> according to traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>icmethods. The colour strengths (K/S) <strong>of</strong> the dyed cott<strong>on</strong>samples were dependent <strong>on</strong> the c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> the naturalcolouring matter.From the results in Fig. 1, it was shown that the colour strength,expressed as K/S, increases <strong>with</strong> increasing c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong><strong>of</strong> the natural colouring matter in the <strong>dyeing</strong> soluti<strong>on</strong> <strong>with</strong>inthe range studied. These results were observed <strong>with</strong>traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>ic methods after the dyed <strong>fabrics</strong> weresubjected to washing at 45 °C.Also, from Fig. 1 it was found that the colour strength <strong>of</strong> the<strong>fabrics</strong> dyed using the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method was higher than thecolour strength achieved using the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method. Theextra vibrati<strong>on</strong> and agitati<strong>on</strong> c<strong>on</strong>ferred <strong>on</strong> the <strong>dyeing</strong> systemby use <strong>of</strong> the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic energy method may account for this.It is understandable that vibrati<strong>on</strong> and agitati<strong>on</strong> al<strong>on</strong>g <strong>with</strong>inducing cavitati<strong>on</strong>s in the cott<strong>on</strong> structure enhance <strong>dyeing</strong>by promoting exhausti<strong>on</strong> and better dissociati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> the dyemolecules <strong>with</strong>in the cott<strong>on</strong> structure. Sec<strong>on</strong>d, for a given dyec<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong>, the decrease in K/S values is more striking<strong>with</strong> the traditi<strong>on</strong>al than <strong>with</strong> the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic energy method,suggesting that the latter affords better dye fixati<strong>on</strong> anddiffusi<strong>on</strong> than the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method.Colour strength ( K/S)86420Traditi<strong>on</strong>alUltras<strong>on</strong>ic2 4 6 8 10 12c<strong>on</strong>c. <strong>of</strong> Crocus sativus ( g/L)Figure 1. Effect <strong>of</strong> c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> natural colouring matter extractedfrom Crocus sativus (flowers) (2–12gm/100 ml H 2O) <strong>on</strong> the colourstrength <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> dyed by traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>ic methods.Dyeing c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s: Traditi<strong>on</strong>al method: boiling for 60 minat pH 6. Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method: 80 °C for 60 min at power level9 and pH 6.3.1.2. Effect <strong>of</strong> pH valuesFigure 2 shows that the colour strength (K/S) exhibits agradual increase <strong>with</strong> increases in the pH value <strong>of</strong> the<strong>dyeing</strong> bath from pH 3 to pH 8 irrespective <strong>of</strong> the method <strong>of</strong><strong>dyeing</strong>; it is certain that higher K/S values are achieved<strong>with</strong> the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method. Increasing the pH from 3 to 8 isaccompanied by higher colour strength until pH 8 isreached.colour strngth ( K/S)76543210Traditi<strong>on</strong>al methodUltras<strong>on</strong>ic method0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9pH valuesFigure 2. Effect <strong>of</strong> pH values <strong>on</strong> the colour strength (K/S) <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong><strong>fabrics</strong> dyed by traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>ic methods <strong>with</strong> naturalcolouring matter extracted from Crocus sativus (flowers) (12gm/100 ml H 2O).Dyeing c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s: Traditi<strong>on</strong>al method: boiling for 60 min, pH3–8. Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method: 80 °C for 60 min, power level,pH 3–8.3.1.3. Effect <strong>of</strong> salt c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong>The colour strengths <strong>of</strong> dyed and washed samples weremeasured and the results are shown in Fig. 3. The figurealso shows that the colour strength increases as the saltc<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong> increases and the colour strength <strong>of</strong> the fabricdyed using the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method is higher than the colourstrength achieved by the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method.Colour strength (K/S)76543210Traditi<strong>on</strong>al methodUltras<strong>on</strong>ic method0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11C<strong>on</strong>c. <strong>of</strong> salt (g/L)Figure 3. Effect <strong>of</strong> salt c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong> the colour strength (K/S) <strong>of</strong>cott<strong>on</strong> fabric dyed by traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>ic methods <strong>with</strong> naturalcolouring matter extracted from Crocus sativus (flowers) (12gm/100 ml H 2O).Dyeing c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s: Traditi<strong>on</strong>al method: boiling for 60 min, pH8, salt (2–10g/l). Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method: 80 °C for 60 min, salt (2–10g/l), power level 9, pH 8.http://www.autexrj.org/No1-2009/ 0266.pdf30


AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 9, No1, March 2009 © AUTEX3.1.4. Effect <strong>of</strong> temperatureThe <strong>dyeing</strong> procedure was c<strong>on</strong>tinued for <strong>on</strong>e hour at atemperature varying from 40 to 100 o C in the case <strong>of</strong> thetraditi<strong>on</strong>al method and from 40 to 80°C in the case <strong>of</strong> theultras<strong>on</strong>ic method.From Fig. 4, it can be seen that the colour strength increases<strong>with</strong> increasing <strong>dyeing</strong> temperature in both the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic andtraditi<strong>on</strong>al methods, <strong>with</strong> a pr<strong>on</strong>ounced increase achieved bythe ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method compared to the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method.Generally, the increase in dye-uptake can be explained byswelling and hence enhanced dye diffusi<strong>on</strong>. Also, theultras<strong>on</strong>ic power provides other additi<strong>on</strong>al factors such asde-aggregati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> dye molecules, leading to furtherenhancement <strong>of</strong> dye diffusi<strong>on</strong> and better dye uptake than thatachieved by the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method.From Table 4, it is observed that better results are obtained at80 °C <strong>with</strong> the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method and at 100 °C <strong>with</strong> thetraditi<strong>on</strong>al method.Colour strength(K/S)6543210Traditi<strong>on</strong>al methodUltras<strong>on</strong>ic method0 20 40 60 80 100 120Temp. ( oC )Figure 4. Effect <strong>of</strong> temperature <strong>on</strong> the colour strength <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong>fabric dyed <strong>with</strong> natural colouring matter extracted from Crocussativus (flowers) (12gm/100 ml H 2O) by the traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>icmethods.Dyeing c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s: Traditi<strong>on</strong>al method: 40–100 °C for 60 min,pH 8, salt 10 g/l. Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method: 40–80 °C for 60 min, salt10 g/l, power level 9, pH 8.3.1.5. Effect <strong>of</strong> timeFrom Fig. 5 it is observed that the colour strength increases<strong>with</strong> increasing durati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>dyeing</strong> time, (to 50 min/60 min) inboth methods. Then the colour strength levels <strong>of</strong>f, and betterColour strength (K/S)543210Traditi<strong>on</strong>al methodUltras<strong>on</strong>ic method0 20 40 60 80 100Time <strong>of</strong> Dyeing (min.)Figure 5. Effect <strong>of</strong> durati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> fabric <strong>with</strong> naturalcolouring matter extracted from Crocus sativus (flowers) (12 gm/100 ml H 2O) <strong>on</strong> the colour strength using the traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>icmethods.results are obtained after 60 min <strong>with</strong> the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method.In the case <strong>of</strong> the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method it was found that 50 mindurati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>dyeing</strong> is good because it gives better colourstrength.Dyeing c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s: Traditi<strong>on</strong>al method: 100 °C for 40–80min, pH 8, salt 10 g/l. Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method: 70°C for 40–80min, salt 10 g/l, power level 9, pH 8.3.1.6. Effect <strong>of</strong> ultras<strong>on</strong>ic powerThe effect <strong>of</strong> ultras<strong>on</strong>ic power <strong>on</strong> the dyeability <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong><strong>with</strong> Crocus sativus (flowers) dye was investigated at differentpower levels. As shown in Fig. (6), the colour strength <strong>of</strong> dyed<strong>fabrics</strong> seemed to be directly proporti<strong>on</strong>al to the powersupplied.Colour strength (K/S)3,532,521,510,50Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method0 100 200 300 400 500 600Power levelFigure 6. Effect <strong>of</strong> ultras<strong>on</strong>ic power levels <strong>on</strong> the colour strength <strong>of</strong>cott<strong>on</strong> fabric dyed <strong>with</strong> natural colouring matter extracted fromCrocus sativus (flowers) (12 gm/100 ml H 2O) by the traditi<strong>on</strong>al andultras<strong>on</strong>ic methods.Dyeing c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>: Traditi<strong>on</strong>al method: 100 °C for 60 min, salt10 g/L, pH 8. Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method: 70°C for 50 min, salt 10 g/L,power level 9, pH 8.This behaviour emphasises again the assisting effect <strong>of</strong>ultras<strong>on</strong>ic power <strong>on</strong> the dyeability <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> dyed <strong>with</strong>Crocus sativus (flowers). This assistance can be explainedby dispersi<strong>on</strong>, which is the breaking up <strong>of</strong> micelles and highmolecular weight aggregates into uniform dispersi<strong>on</strong>s in thedye bath, and by degassing, which is the expulsi<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong>dissolved or entrapped gas or air molecules from fibrecapillaries and interstices at the crossover points <strong>of</strong> fabricinto the liquid and removal by cavitati<strong>on</strong>s, thus facilitating dye–fibre c<strong>on</strong>tact. The rate <strong>of</strong> diffusi<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> dye inside the fibre isalso accelerated by piercing the insulating layer covering thefibre and accelerating the interacti<strong>on</strong> or chemical reacti<strong>on</strong>between dye and fibre [18–22].3.1.7. Effect <strong>of</strong> using different types <strong>of</strong> mordantsThree mordant methods: pre-mordanting, simultaneousmordanting, and post-mordanting are used to dye cott<strong>on</strong><strong>fabrics</strong>. Different comm<strong>on</strong> mordant salts such as coppersulphate, ferrous sulphate, potassium aluminium sulphate,stannous chloride, and tannic acid are used.Pre-mordanting methodTable 7 shows the use <strong>of</strong> different pH values <strong>with</strong> differentkinds <strong>of</strong> mordants. Better colour strength results aredependent <strong>on</strong> the metal salt used.http://www.autexrj.org/No1-2009/ 0266.pdf31


AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 9, No1, March 2009 © AUTEXTable 1. Effect <strong>of</strong> using different pH values <strong>of</strong> mordants <strong>on</strong> the colour strength <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> fabric dyed by traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>icmethods using Crocus sativus (pre-, simultaneous, and post-<strong>dyeing</strong> and mordanting methods).MordantTypeCoppersulphatePotassiumaluminiumsulphateTannicAcidFerroussulphateStannouschloridepH valuePremordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>methodTraditi<strong>on</strong>al methodSimultaneousmordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>methodColour strength (K/S)Postmordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>methodPremordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>methodUltras<strong>on</strong>ic methodSimultaneousmordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>methodPostmordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>method3 2.60 2.60 2.91 2.98 2.98 3.004 2.79 2.96 2.99 3.00 3.00 3.335 2.84 2.96 3.00 3.10 3.00 3.386 3.11 3.26 3.04 3.30 3.35 3.427 3.37 3.33 3.48 3.50 3.42 3.638 3.47 3.40 3.57 3.69 3.44 3.683 2.51 2.57 3.50 2.73 2.73 3.734 2.82 2.60 3.62 2.97 2.99 3.805 2.98 2.81 3.71 3.00 3.11 3.876 3.11 2.98 3.83 3.31 3.26 3.987 3.35 3.00 3.90 3.48 3.30 4.108 3.43 3.20 3.97 3.58 3.43 4.323 2.43 2.42 3.51 2.67 2.50 3.674 2.55 2.47 3.57 2.70 2.59 3.775 2.76 2.54 3.70 2.98 2.63 3.806 2.89 2.60 3.72 3.00 2.70 3.837 3.18 2.67 3.75 3.30 2.74 3.878 3.29 2.70 3.80 3.55 2.83 3.913 1.90 2.37 2.87 2.50 2.48 2.934 2.00 2.44 2.99 2.55 2.54 3.005 2.40 2.53 3.01 2.73 2.70 3.106 2.63 2.64 3.08 2.78 2.73 3.257 2.75 2.71 3.33 2.90 2.77 3.588 2.78 2.99 3.57 3.00 3.15 3.633 3.00 2.97 2.73 3.40 3.16 2.854 3.11 2.40 2.70 3.38 2.67 2.825 2.40 2.30 2.58 2.57 2.69 2.676 2.63 2.08 2.42 2.70 2.57 2.587 2.68 2.03 2.40 2.74 2.37 2.478 2.74 1.98 2.33 2.78 2.28 2.38From Table 8, it can be observed that the colour strength <strong>of</strong>dyed <strong>fabrics</strong> increases when the c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> mordantused is increased. It was found that ultras<strong>on</strong>ic <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong>samples gave a deeper shade (higher K/S) than the traditi<strong>on</strong>almethod did.It can be observed that the colour strength <strong>of</strong> dyed mordantcott<strong>on</strong> samples for the different mordant salts follows theorder copper sulphate > potassium aluminum sulphate >tannic acid > stannous chloride > ferrous sulphate in the case<strong>of</strong> pre-mordanting.Simultaneous <strong>dyeing</strong> and mordanting methodTable 9 shows the use <strong>of</strong> different pH values <strong>with</strong> differentkinds <strong>of</strong> mordants. Better colour strength results aredependant <strong>on</strong> the metal salt used. On the other hand, fromTable (10) it can be observed that the colour strength (K/S) <strong>of</strong>dyed <strong>fabrics</strong> increases when the c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> mordantused is increased. Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>of</strong> mordanted cott<strong>on</strong>samples gave a deeper shade (higher K/S) than the traditi<strong>on</strong>almethod did. It can be observed that the colour strength indyed mordant cott<strong>on</strong> fabric for different mordant salts followsthe order potassium aluminum sulphate > copper sulphate >ferrous sulphate > stannous chloride > tannic acid when thesimultaneous mordanting and <strong>dyeing</strong> method is used.Post-mordanting methodTable 11 shows the effect <strong>of</strong> using different pH values (3–8)<strong>with</strong> different kinds <strong>of</strong> mordants. Better colour strength resultsare obtained using different pre-mordants and are dependent<strong>on</strong> the metal salt used. From Table 12, it can be observed thatthe colour strength (K/S) <strong>of</strong> dyed <strong>fabrics</strong> increases when thehttp://www.autexrj.org/No1-2009/ 0266.pdf32


AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 9, No1, March 2009 © AUTEXTable 2. Effect <strong>of</strong> using different c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong>s <strong>of</strong> mordants <strong>on</strong> the colour strength <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> fabric dyed by traditi<strong>on</strong>al andultras<strong>on</strong>ic methods using Crocus sativus (pre-, simultaneous, and post-mordanting and <strong>dyeing</strong> methods).MordantTypeCoppersulphatePotassiumaluminiumsulphateTannicacidFerroussulphateStannouschlorideMordantC<strong>on</strong>c. (g/L)Premordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>methodTraditi<strong>on</strong>al methodSimultaneousMordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>methodColour strength (K/S)Postmordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>methodPremordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>methodUltras<strong>on</strong>ic methodSimultaneousmordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>methodPostmordantingand <strong>dyeing</strong>method0.2 3.10 3.05 2.80 3.25 3.19 3.000.6 3.33 3.20 3.10 3.33 3.33 3.271.0 3.57 3.47 3.40 3.69 3.60 3.441.4 3.60 3.53 3.46 3.79 3.70 3.521.8 3.79 3.70 3.57 3.85 3.73 3.600.2 3.52 3.00 2.73 3.81 3.16 3.970.6 3.52 3.19 2.80 3.81 3.26 3.001.0 3.97 3.43 3.20 3.32 3.58 3.431.4 3.97 3.45 3.32 4.32 3.60 4.431.8 3.97 3.45 3.41 4.40 3.61 4.450.2 3.42 2.60 1.55 3.55 2.80 2.640.6 3.47 2.73 2.05 3.62 3.00 2.901.0 3.80 3.00 3.29 3.77 3.55 3.101.4 3.80 3.35 3.13 3.82 3.60 3.301.8 3.80 3.35 3.16 3.87 3.61 3.600.2 2.99 2.89 2.50 3.05 3.00 2.630.6 3.00 2.98 2.61 3.15 3.07 2.871.0 3.17 2.99 2.78 3.18 3.15 3.001.4 2.99 3.12 2.99 3.33 3.20 3.151.8 3.20 3.17 3.10 3.38 3.30 3.200.2 3.00 2.74 2.33 3.30 3.00 2.430.6 3.06 2.94 2.48 3.32 3.09 2.591.0 3.13 3.00 2.97 3.40 3.37 3.161.4 3.23 3.07 3.00 3.40 3.38 3.231.8 3.27 3.07 3.10 3.43 3.45 3.40Table 3. Fastness <strong>properties</strong> <strong>of</strong> pre-mordanting <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> dyed <strong>with</strong> natural colouring matter extracted fromCrocus sativus (flower) using the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method.AcidicPerspirati<strong>on</strong>Alkalineperspirati<strong>on</strong>LightfastnessType <strong>of</strong> mordantCrockingWashing fastnessDry Wet St.* St.** St.* St.** St.* St.** 40 hrWithout mordant 3–4 2 2–3 2 2–3 2 2 2 2Ferrous sulphate 3–4 3 2–3 2–3 2–3 2 3 2–3 3–4Aluminium sulphate 3–4 2 2–3 2 2 2–3 3 2–3 2–3Stannous chloride 3–4 3 2–3 3 2–3 2–3 2–3 3 3–4Copper sulphate 4 3–4 3 2–3 2–3 2–3 3 3 3Tannic acid 4 3 2–3 2–3 3 2 3 3 3–4St.*St.**= staining <strong>on</strong> cott<strong>on</strong>= staining <strong>on</strong> woolc<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> mordant used increases. Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic <strong>dyeing</strong><strong>of</strong> mordanted cott<strong>on</strong> samples gave a deeper shade (higherK/S) than the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method did. It can be observed thatthe colour strength <strong>of</strong> dyed mordanted cott<strong>on</strong> fabric for differentmordant salts follows the order potassium aluminiumsulphate > tannic acid> copper sulphate > ferrous sulphate >stannous chloride when the post-mordanting method is used.3.1.8. Colour fastness <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> fabric dyed <strong>with</strong> naturalcolouring matter extracted from Crocus sativus (saffr<strong>on</strong>)From Tables (3–8) it can be seen that the fastness <strong>properties</strong><strong>of</strong> pre-, simultaneous and post-mordanted dyed <strong>fabrics</strong> wereassessed using traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>ic methods.Comparing the fastness <strong>properties</strong> from all these tables, it ishttp://www.autexrj.org/No1-2009/ 0266.pdf33


AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 9, No1, March 2009 © AUTEXTable 4. Fastness <strong>properties</strong> <strong>of</strong> pre-mordanting <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> dyed <strong>with</strong> natural colouring matter extracted fromCrocus sativus (flower) using the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method.AlkalineCrocking Acidic perspirati<strong>on</strong>Type <strong>of</strong> mordantperspirati<strong>on</strong>Washing fastness Light fastnessDry Wet St.* St.** St.* St.** St.* St.** 40 hrWithout mordant 3–4 3–4 3 3 3 2 2–3 3 4Ferrous sulphate 3–4 3–4 2–3 2–3 3 2–3 3 3 3–4Aluminium sulphate 4 3–4 3 2–3 3 2–3 3 3 3–4Stannous chloride 3–4 3–4 3 3 2–3 2–3 3 3–4 4–5Copper sulphate 3–4 3 3 3 3 2–3 3 3–4 4–5Tannic acid 4 3–4 3 3 3 2–3 3 3–4 4St.*St.**= staining <strong>on</strong> cott<strong>on</strong>= staining <strong>on</strong> woolTable 5. Fastness <strong>properties</strong> <strong>of</strong> simultaneous <strong>dyeing</strong> and mordanting <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> dyed <strong>with</strong> natural colouring matter extractedfrom Crocus sativus (flower) using the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method.Alkalineperspirati<strong>on</strong>LightfastnessType <strong>of</strong> mordantCrocking Acidic perspirati<strong>on</strong>Washing fastnessDry Wet St.* St.** St.* St.** St.* St.** 40 hrWithout mordant 3 2–3 2 2 2 2–3 3 2 3Ferrous sulphate 3–4 3 3 2–3 2–3 3 3 2–3 4Aluminium sulphate 3–4 3 2 2–3 2–3 3 3 2–3 3–4Stannous chloride 3 3 2 3 2–3 2 3–4 3 4Copper sulphate 3 2–3 3 2 2 2 3 3 3–4Tannic acid 3 2–3 2 2 2 2–3 3 2–3 4St.*St.**= staining <strong>on</strong> cott<strong>on</strong>= staining <strong>on</strong> woolSt.*St.**Table 6. Fastness <strong>properties</strong> <strong>of</strong> simultaneous <strong>dyeing</strong> and mordanting <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> dyed <strong>with</strong> natural colouring matter extractedfrom Crocus sativus (flower) using the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method.Acidicperspirati<strong>on</strong>Alkalineperspirati<strong>on</strong>LightfastnessType <strong>of</strong> mordantCrockingWashing fastnessDry Wet St.* St.** St.* St.** St.* St.** 40 hrWithout mordant 3–4 3 2–3 2–3 2–3 2–3 3 2–3 3–4Ferrous sulphate 3–4 3 3 2–3 2–3 3 3 2–3 4–5Aluminium sulphate 3–4 3 2–3 3 3 3 3 2–3 4Stannous chloride 4 3 2–3 3 2–3 2–3 3–4 3 4–5Copper sulphate 3–4 3 3 2–3 2–3 2–3 3 3 4Tannic acid 4 3 2–3 2–3 3 3 3 3 4= staining <strong>on</strong> cott<strong>on</strong>= staining <strong>on</strong> woolSt.*St.**Table 7. Fastness <strong>properties</strong> <strong>of</strong> post-mordanting <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> dyed <strong>with</strong> natural colouring matter extracted fromCrocus sativus (flower) using the traditi<strong>on</strong>al method.Acidicperspirati<strong>on</strong>http://www.autexrj.org/No1-2009/ 0266.pdf34LightfastnessType <strong>of</strong> mordantCrockingAlkaline perspirati<strong>on</strong> Washing fastnessDry Wet St.* St.** St.* St.** St.* St.** 40 hrWithout mordant 1–2 1 2 1–2 2 1–2 2–3 1–2 1Ferrous sulphate 1–2 1–2 2–3 2–3 2–3 2–3 3 3 1Aluminium sulphate 1–2 2–3 2 2–3 3 2–3 3 3 2Stannous chloride 1–2 1 1–2 2–3 2–3 2–3 3 2–3 3Copper sulphate 3 2–3 2 1–2 2 2–3 3 2–3 1Tannic acid 2 2–3 1–2 2 2 2–3 3 2–3 1–2= staining <strong>on</strong> cott<strong>on</strong>= staining <strong>on</strong> wool


AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 9, No1, March 2009 © AUTEXTable 8. Fastness <strong>properties</strong> <strong>of</strong> post-mordanting <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> dyed <strong>with</strong> natural colouring matter extracted fromCrocus sativus (flower) using the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method.Acidicperspirati<strong>on</strong>Alkalineperspirati<strong>on</strong>LightfastnessType <strong>of</strong> mordantCrockingWashing fastnessDry Wet St.* St.** St.* St.** St.* St.** 40 hrWithout mordant 2–3 2–3 2 3 3 2 3 2 1–2Ferrous sulphate 1–2 2 3 2 2–3 3 3 2–3 2Aluminium sulphate 1–2 3 2–3 2–3 3 3 3 2–3 1–2Stannous chloride 2–3 2–3 2–3 3 2–3 2–3 3–4 3 2–3Copper sulphate 3 2–3 3 2–3 2–3 2–3 3 3 2–3Tannic acid 2–3 2–3 2–3 2–3 3 3 3 3 2St.*St.**= staining <strong>on</strong> cott<strong>on</strong>= staining <strong>on</strong> woolfound that for all mordants, the dry and wet crocking fastnessis almost good when the traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>ic methodsare used. Acid and alkaline perspirati<strong>on</strong> values are fair togood. Also, the washing fastness is between good and verygood. The light fastness is good to very good.C<strong>on</strong>clusi<strong>on</strong>• The colour strength <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> dyed <strong>with</strong> naturalcolouring matter extracted from Crocus sativus(Saffr<strong>on</strong>) by the ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method is better than thecolour strength for cott<strong>on</strong> fabric dyed by the traditi<strong>on</strong>almethod.• The optimum c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s for <strong>dyeing</strong> methods(traditi<strong>on</strong>al and ultras<strong>on</strong>ic) such as c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong>dye, pH <strong>of</strong> dye bath, temperature and durati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong><strong>dyeing</strong>, and ultrasound power level were studied.• Colour data were evaluated such as colour strength(K/S) and L, a, b.• Using different mordants as well as different methods<strong>of</strong> mordanting dyed cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> gives a wide range<strong>of</strong> beautiful colourful hues.• The pre-mordanting method gives higher colourstrength than simultaneous mordanting and postmordantingmethods.• Fastness <strong>properties</strong> were assessed for <strong>dyeing</strong> andmordanting <strong>dyeing</strong> methods.References:1. AATCC, Technical Manual, Method 8 (1989), 68 (1993),23–25.2. AATCC, Technical Manual, Method 36 (1972), 68 (1993).3. AATCC, Technical Manual, Method 15 (1989), 68 (1993),30–32.4. AATCC, Technical Manual, Method 16 A (1988), 68(1993), 33–48.5. Amm<strong>on</strong> HPT, Wahl MA, Planta Med. 57 (1991) 1–7.6. Buescher R, Yang L, Lauro GJ, Francis FJ, Science andTechnology. NY, (2000), 205–226.7. Deo HT, Desai BK, J.S.D.C., 115, 7/8, (1999), 224.8. Gogoi A, Ahmed SS, Barua N, The Indian Text. J., August(1997).9. Hill DJ, Rev. Prog. Colorati<strong>on</strong>, 27, (1997), 24.10. Judd DB, Wysezchi G, Colour in Business, Science andIndustry, 3rd ed. (1975).11. Katyayini VKLT, Jacob M, Colourage, 46, 8, (1999), 43.12. Kumar V, Bharati BV, Am. Dye. Rep., 87, 12, (1998),18.13. Miquel J, Bernd N, Sempere JM, Diaz–Alperi J, RamirezA, Ger<strong>on</strong>tol. Arch, Geriatr. 34 (2002), 37–46.14. Kamel MM, El-Shishtawy RM, Youssef BM, Mashaly H,Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic Assisted Dyeing III. (Dyeing <strong>of</strong> wool <strong>with</strong> lacas a natural dye), Dyes and Pigments, 65, (2005), 103–110.15. Kamel MM, Youssef BM, Helmy HM, Dyeing <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong><strong>fabrics</strong> using <str<strong>on</strong>g>some</str<strong>on</strong>g> natural dyes, Part I. Some <str<strong>on</strong>g>studies</str<strong>on</strong>g><strong>on</strong> <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>properties</strong> <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> up<strong>on</strong> <strong>dyeing</strong> usingCedrela To<strong>on</strong>a (bark), 2nd Internati<strong>on</strong>al C<strong>on</strong>ference <strong>of</strong>Textile Research Divisi<strong>on</strong> NRC, Cairo, Egypt, 11–13 April,(2005), 115.16. Kamel MM, Helmy HM, El-Hawary NS, Some <str<strong>on</strong>g>studies</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong><strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>properties</strong> <strong>of</strong> cott<strong>on</strong> <strong>fabrics</strong> <strong>with</strong> Curcuma L<strong>on</strong>ga(turmeric) (roots) using ultras<strong>on</strong>ic method, The 13thInternati<strong>on</strong>al C<strong>on</strong>ference, Liberec, Czech Republic, 27–29 November, (2006) 371–377.17. Kamel MM, El-Shishtawy RM, Youssef BM, Mashaly H,Ultras<strong>on</strong>ic assisted <strong>dyeing</strong> IV: Dyeing <strong>of</strong> cati<strong>on</strong>ised cott<strong>on</strong><strong>with</strong> lac, Natural Dyes and Pigments, 73, 3, (2007) 279–284.18. Saravanan D, Ultras<strong>on</strong>ics assisted textile processing –an update, Colourage, LIII, 4, April (2006), 111–116.19. Thakore KA, Smith CB, Applicati<strong>on</strong> <strong>of</strong> ultrasound to textilewet processing, American Dyestuff Reporter, October(1990), 30–38.20. Venkatachalam V, Effect <strong>of</strong> mordant <strong>on</strong> mango (bark)dye for <strong>dyeing</strong> <strong>of</strong> jute-cott<strong>on</strong> uni<strong>on</strong> fabric, Colourage,108, August (2002), 49–54.21. Wanlef K, Sik Chung Y, Pil Kim J, Effects <strong>of</strong> ultrasoundtreatment and dye crystalline <strong>properties</strong> <strong>on</strong> particle sizedistributi<strong>on</strong>, Textile Research Journal, (2001), 976–980.22. Wiely J Inc. Modern textiles, New York, (1976), 45–50.∇Δhttp://www.autexrj.org/No1-2009/ 0266.pdf35

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