COMMUNITY HEALTH DATES TO REMEMBER ... - Platypus Country

GARDENINGIDEAS FOR SHADY PLACES IN THEGARDENPart of the natural cycle of a maturinggarden is the gradual increase in areas ofshade. It follows that shrubs that oncethrived in open sunny conditions stopflowering or even weaken and die causingthe gardener to revamp the plantingscheme. However, before selecting the newplants, it is important to reallyunderstand the type and depth of shadethat has developed at each position.The first useful division is to considerthe soil conditions – is it dry or wetshade? Dry shade can develops under treeswith shallow roots that suck up all thewater in surface soil. It can be caused bythose plants that develop a mass offibrous roots that fill air spaces in thesoil causing it to repel moisture. Sometrees have such dense foliage that wateris prevented from reaching the soil in allbut the heaviest rain event. Conifers arenotorious for creating large areas of dryshade. Dry shade is also common undereaves. On the other hand, low lying spotsor areas in the shadow of buildings orsolid fences especially on the southernside, can remain sodden for the greaterpart of the year. Plantings of thosespecies that can tolerate wet feet areneeded.The density of shade is also important.Deep shade precludes almost all floweringplants and vegetative growth is oftendisappointingly sparse or spindly.Variegated plants also lose definition indeep shade because light is required tomaintain the colour. Light shade is easieras it allows favourites like azaleas andcamellias to thrive although if it isprovided by deciduous trees there can be agap in sun and frost protection in earlySpring. The hardest position to cope withis one that is shady most of the time butreceives full sun for a period first up inthe morning (frost/dew burn) or lateafternoon (sunburn).So exactly who was it that suggestedgardening was easy?Here a few suggestions for our area. Treeferns, ferns, native violets, somebamboos, ajuga and arum lilies for wetBy Susan Tocchinishade. Hydrangea, rhododendron, Japanesemaple, Banksia canei and marginata, Mintbushes, Persoonia (geebung), Bergenia(saxifrage), Hostas, violets, hellebores,mahonia, aucuba, buxus for light shadeMany leafy vegetables are better in shadealso for example English spinach.What would be really good is if thegarden page became a forum for gardentips. There are so many years ofexperience amongst the district residentsthat could be shared and built on. Let’sstart the conversation with what you havefound successful in your shady places.Phone the neighbourhood house 64580295 oremail tubbutnh@bigpond.com orstocchini2@bigpond.com. Questions andsuggestions are very welcome.What can I plant?It’s the end of the gardener’s year, butthere are a few things that can beplanted in August.Peter Cullen suggests:Jerusalem artichokesShallotsPotato onionsGarlic clovesChivesRhubarbAsparagus crownsSeedlings:CabbageCeleryBroccoliCauliflowerLettuceOnionLeeksSeeds, directly in the ground:Peas, snow peasBroad beansTurnipsSwedesAsian brassicasEnglish spinachOnionsSeeds, in containers:Silver beetBrassicaslettuce