SAMPLE - International Wine Review

The Future: Syrah from California and thePacific NorthwestSyrah is often referred to as a chameleon grape that takes ona different character based on the growing conditions of thevineyard. For this reason Syrah has kept consumers guessingas to what they will taste the next time they crack a bottle withthis varietal name. Will the wine be a fruit forward style? A lushwine loaded with oak? Or a peppery, leathery, Rhone style wine?No single style of Syrah will dominate in the future. The riperversions of Syrah that resemble that of Australian Shiraz willcontinue to be an important style in the market. Cooler climateSyrah that mirrors the wines of the northern Rhone will continueto flourish as well. But, a third style of Syrah will emergethat is unique to California, and the northwest. This style is a superextracted, darkly colored, extremely complex, high alcoholwine that has the texture and flavor of a mocha espresso. Thisnew, highly extracted style is what Dan Berger, of Dan Berger’sVintage Experiences, calls a “one glass wine”. It is so extracted, sohigh in alcohol, that you can only drink one glass. All three areviable styles that will find followers and admirers.It is unlikely that Syrah will rival Cabernet Sauvignon as thedominant grape variety any time soon. However, in the US, itcould give Pinot Noir and Merlot a run for the money, particularlyat the value range under $15.00. While Pinot Noir is themost exciting wine being made in California right now, muchof the wine under $15.00 is atypical. Wines possessing darkcolors, structure, and extraction are not easily achieved withcommercial Pinot Noir. At this price point, Syrah is often muchmore interesting than Pinot Noir. And it is likely that with theshortage of Pinot Noir, much of the wine under $15.00 is beingstretched with Syrah.Domestic Syrah continues to be a work in progress, but judgingfrom our encounters with Syrah, the quality has improved significantlyover the last few years. Readers should use our tastingnotes and guide to ensure they maximize their tasting experience.The expression of Syrah in California and the northwestwill only improve as vineyards continue to mature, growersbecome more experienced, and the winemakers adapt to thefruit they are entrusted.Tasting Notes and RatingsCalifornia and Pacific Northwest SyrahAdelaida Cellars 2003 SyrahPaso Robles ($26) 89Adelaida Cellars 2003 SyrahViking Estate Reserve Paso Robles ($55) 90Adelaida Cellars 2003 SyrahGlenrose Estate Reserve Paso Robles ($55) 92The 2003 Syrah Paso Robles exhibits a dark garnet coloraccompanied by ripe blackberry fruit and toasted oak aromas.It is medium-bodied with a palate of dark fruits, earth, baconfat and herbs. It is nicely balanced although the tannins needmore time to evolve. The 2003 Syrah Viking Estate Reservereveals a dark purple opaque color with an oak dominantbouquet combining red cherry and black fruit scents and notesof baking spices. The palate is nicely textured with more berryfruit, smoky oak highlights and good acidity on the finish. The2003 Syrah Glenrose Estate Reserve is dark garnet and rubycoloredwith scents of spicy bright cherry and blackberry fruitand secondary notes of black pepper and cinnamon. Mediumbodiedand nicely balanced, this Syrah is the best of the threeproduced by this estate in the 2003 vintage.Winery:(805) 239-8980.Ampelos Cellars 2003 Evans Ranch SyrahSanta Rita Hills ($34 ) 90Ampelos Cellars is a relatively new family owned and operatedRhone Ranger winery which began operations in 2001. Its2003 Evans Ranch Syrah, sourced from a nearby vineyard, is acomplex and earthy Northern Rhone –styled wine offering afruit forward nose with smoked meat and barnyard-like aromassuggesting a touch of brett. Medium to full-bodied it revealsconsiderable concentration of cherry-like fruit, elegant mouthfeel and a long finish. This Syrah augers well for this new winery(which also makes excellent Pinot Noir) and suggests that the2004 vintage which will be estate grown, will be even better.Andrew Adam Vineyards 2003 SyrahCentral Coast ($29) 92This small family owned and relatively unknown winery hasproduced one of the best values in mid-priced California Syrahtasted in our review. It exhibits a dark opaque purple core witharomatic blackberry fruit and a touch of spice. Fruit forward instyle, highly extracted and full-bodied, this terrific wine, whichspends 26 months in barrel (on original lees) has superb mouthfeel, ripe tannins and a lovely finish. This Syrah is complex andlayered and is drinking beautifully now, but will develop furtherwith time in the bottle. Winery: (805) 259-6949