ANOTHER LOOK AT ANOTHERTHYME - Welcome to Aqua Design

MetroGourmetby Moreton NealA joy receivedANOTHER LOOK AT ANOTHERTHYMEThis past year was roughfor Triangle restaurants.Among many closings,three of our landmark restaurants—eacha classic of its time,each beloved in its heyday andeach irreplaceable—are gonefor good.In Durham, road constructionfinally did in Hartman’sSteakhouse, a vestige of the ’40sand an intriguing anachronismeven back in the early ’70s whenI first dined there. Opened soonafter WWII, Hartman’s kept itsoriginal dark wood-paneledambience and its mid-centurymenu and prices, almost to theend. Where can we now findfried banana peppers, calf’s liverwith onions, and that famouslythick blue cheese dressing?Likewise, pickled pigs’ feetand slow-cooked greens servedat the incomparable Pan PanDiner have disappeared thiswinter, another victim of highway(i-85) robbery.The third eatery to bite thedust recently, and the youngestof the three, was once a bastionof good vegetarian cooking and,

Metrogourmetfor a generation, the quintessentialChapel Hill lunch spot—Pyewacket.Pyewacket may have been avictim of its own success. Asthe interior expanded andbecame more stylish, and thefood richer, something essentialwas lost. When familiar favoritessuch as “Morning Star” and“French Green” salads disappearedfrom the menu, manyregulars stopped going. Still, itsclosing was a shock to all thetownsfolk and UNC alumswho took for granted thatPyewacket, like its feline namesakefrom the movie, Bell,Book, and Candle, had severallives left.Though a new restaurantwill soon erase all evidence ofPye wacket in its former FranklinStreet location, “Morning Star”and “French Green Salad” devoteescan take heart. These andother classic dishes fromPye wacket’s menu are alive andwell at another, equally venerable,Triangle restaurant.Durham’s Another thyme, blessedlyunchanged in its 21 years,owes its longevity to the steadyhand of its perfectionist ownerMary Bacon. Until Pyewacketclosed, Mary was a managingpartner (with her former husbandDavid Bacon) and thecreator of its original healthconsciousmenu.Anotherthyme’s perfectionist owner Mary Baconworks her culinary magic with natural talentPhotos by o’neil arnold / www.oaphoto.comThough she has no formalrestaurant training,Mary’s talent in the kitchencame naturally. “My motherwas a terrific cook. Shebelieved in healthy food andeven made all her babies’food from scratch,” sherecalls. After marrying youngnaval officer David Bacon atage 21, the young bride spentfour years on the West Coast,devoting most of her time tocooking at home. LeavingCalifornia a vegetarian witha discerning palate, she andDavid drove back across thecountry seeking good vegetarianrestaurants at eachstop. Disappointed, Mary begandreaming of opening her own,though she had no experienceworking outside the home.Back in Durham, Maryteamed up with two other idealists,Elmer Hall (then chaplainat Duke) and Mary Rocap,to open “a restaurant thatoffered really good vegetarianfood to a liberal community atthe lowest possible cost…andwould avoid making a profit!”Somethyme succeeded in all itsgoals, miraculously survivingfor 14 years. Mary, the onlycook of the three, becameknown as one of the best chefsin the area. 61

MetrogourmetBy the ’80s, Durham had changed and sohad Mary. As brand-new Brightleaf Squarebegan attracting sophisticated Triangle shoppersand diners, Mary opened a new restauranton nearby Duke Street. By then, she wasready to cross a philosophical threshold. Shecame to her senses about losing money (“notreally hard to do in the restaurant business!”),but she was still very community-oriented.“I wanted a neighborhood feeling, a cozyplace where people feel at home.”Thanks to Mary Bacon, truly wonderfulvegetarian food in a cozy place can be foundto this day in Durham. Ravioli withAsparagus and Porcini Mush rooms, ChiapasBurritos (with jack cheese, chilis, and avocado),Pasta Primavera and other mainstaysof the original menu are still there. Mary’sfamous salad dressings—Lemon Tamari,Anti boise (featuring Roquefort cheese andanchovies) and Ume boshi Plum—are availableboth in the restaurant and in takehomejars.A decade after Another thyme opened,Mary began hearing a common complaint:“I’d like to come more often, but my husbandprefers meat.” In 1990 the first chickenentrée appeared on the menu. Mary concocted“AT Fried Chicken,” a free-rangechicken breast rolled in almonds, breadcrumbsand Parmesan cheeses, deep-friedand served with mashed potatoes. It was animmediate hit and remains so to this day.Later she added a grilled filet mignon thatshould meet the standards of the most discerningcarnivores, topped with a choice ofsauces: Béarnaise or an intensely flavoredCôte de Rhone reduction.Though she has the good sense not to “fixwhat ain’t broke” and leaves the regular menualone, Mary comes up with exciting new specialsperiodically. Current offerings includered snapper with a tangy passion fruit sauce,a succulent baked salmon with green peppercornsauce and a spring lamb kabob withroasted red peppers on a bed of polenta.Mary spends hours developing a recipebefore offering it on the menu. “I want thedish to be perfect, to reflect my pride in thisrestaurant. My customers shouldn’t pay foranything that’s not just right. If a customerisn’t happy, I’m not happy.”When I asked about the demise ofPyewacket she commented, “David and Iwere partners to the end, but I couldn’t bein Chapel Hill on a regular basis. New chefsput their stamp on the menu and graduallylet the original dishes go. Eventually, itbecame a completely different restaurantthan when we started.”Anotherthyme is another story. Mary’spresence is felt there each day. She is devotedto maintaining the restaurant’s reputationfor excellence and for being responsive to itspatrons. “I don’t follow trends; I do what Ithink is really good,” she says. “It’s all aboutgiving joy to my customers.”To old friends of the “Thymes,” Mary’sfood is nostalgic—as comforting, wholesomeand delicious as always. For all hercustomers, old and new, Anotherthyme isa joy received.MMAnotherthymeAddress: 109 North Gregson Street, DurhamHours: Open every night at 5:30 fordrinks, 6–9:30 for dinnerTelephone: 919-682-5225Credit Cards: All major credit cards exceptDiners ClubHouse rules: Smoking in the bar(except Fri. and Sat. until 9)62 May 2003 MetroMagazine

MetrogourmetOff the menuWindansea in Morehead CityTraveling to the Coast? Now that the winter windshave died down, local fish—American red snapper,grouper, trigger fish, and tuna—are featured menuitems to accompany fresh local produce fromGarner’s Farms in Newport. And if you’re feelingguilty for cleaning your plate, Windansea Chef MikePerry is now using the chicken from production ofstock combined with whole-wheat flour, eggs, andgarlic to make “Windansea Doggie Treats.” In additionto an expanded selection of mid-rangeCalifornia wines, Windansea is now one of the fewCarolina establishments offering the limited production2003 Yakima Valley Syrah and Chardonnayfrom McCrae Vineyards in Washington State.Windansea is located at 708 Evans St., MoreheadCity. Call 252-247-3000.Need Help Cooking?Cooking Schools at Fearrington, June 8 & 9,include cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, discussion withthe chef and dinner on Sunday, with hands-oninstruction on Monday. Contact: 2000 FearringtonVillage Center, Pittsboro, NC 27312. Call 919-542-4000, email fhouse@fearrington.com, or visit www.fearrington.com.March 2003, MorganWriter-in-ResidenceUNC-Chapel HillCalvin Trillin, acclaimedwriter, humorist, and commentatoron American culture,was recently chosen toserve as the Morgan Writerin Residence at UNC, presenteda reading on March19, followed by a receptionat the Carolina Inn. An acerbicessayist of the American scene, Trillin has writtenthree books on culinary adventures (AmericanFried; Alice, Let’s Eat; and Third Helpings), nowavailable as a compilation, The Tummy Trilogy.Pittsboro General StoreUnder New OwnershipThe new owners of the Pittsboro General StoreCafé are upholding the customs of the local favoriteeatery, including the friendly atmosphere, displaysof work from local artists, live music, familynights, and favorite menu items such as thePittsburrito, ethnic cuisines, vegan, vegetarian,and non-vegetarian items. New additions includeCyber Café and Wi-Fi Internet Connectivity. Forinformation or scheduled events call 919-542-2432or visit www.generalstorecafe.com. MMMetroMagazine may 2003 63