Junij, julij 2013 - Adria Airways

Adria AirwaysIn-flight MagazineVaš brezplačni izvod - junij, julij | Your personal copy - June, July 2013DestinacijaBruseljDestination BrusselsAdrijin potnikadria passengermiki musterokusiti slovenijo/taste sloveniasrce krasa /the heart of the karstkraški ovčarji /karst shepherdsurbanistanživahni metalci/happy metalheadsimago sloveniaeraftingoman03

www.peugeot.siSE VRAcAPoraba v kombiniranem načinu vožnje: 5,9 l/100 km. Izpuh CO2: 139 g/km.Podrobnejše informacije o porabi goriva in emisijah CO2 novih osebnih vozil Peugeot najdete v priročniku o varčniporabi goriva in emisijah CO2, ki ga lahko brezplačno pridobite na prodajnem mestu in na www.peugeot.si.NOVI PEUGEOT 208 GTi

Si.mobilova subvencijaza samostojnepodjetnike in podjetja!6 mesecevbreznaročnine!Telefonija, internet in poslovne rešitve6 mesecev brez naročnine.Telefonija Internet Poslovne rešitve NapravePopolna pisarnaAkcijo “6 mesecev brez naročnine” lahko do 30.06.2013 izkoristijo vsi novi naročniki Si.mobila, pravne osebe in samostojni podjetniki posamezniki, ki se z nakupom telefona vežejoza 24 mesecev, na izbranih paketih Podjetni Start 1,2,3 in Podjetni Smart 1,2,3., na izbranih paketih Mobilni internet XS, S, M in XL. Ugodnost velja za naslednje poslovne rešitve:Spletna domena, Microsoft Exchange / Lync / SharePoint, Google Aplikacije za Poslovne uporabnike, PamFax, F-Secure, SOS Backup&Restore, miniMAX, eNvoices®, All Hours,Shopamine in Si.most. Za obstoječe naročnike Poslovnih rešitev Si.mobila ali ponudnikov rešitev velja ugodnost samo za dodatno naročene poslovne rešitve. Prvih šest mesecevvezave prejme naročnik 100% popust na izbrani naročniški paket, nato se naročnina zaračuna po veljavnem ceniku. Akcija se izključuje z morebitnimi ostalimi akcijami Si.mobila.Vse cene vsebujejo DDV. Vključene količine se ne prenašajo v naslednje obračunsko obdobje. Za pakete PODJETNI in pakete Mobilni internet veljajo posebni pogoji uporabe, ki soskupaj s cenami ostalih storitev dostopni na www.simobil.si.

Telekom Slovenije, d.d., 1546 LjubljanaSestavite si vse po svoje!Mobilni poslovni zakupprina{a novo dimenzijoposlovne komunikacije.Odločite se za Skupni poslovni zakup in izberite količinoenot, ki jih lahko uporablja več uporabnikov skupaj.Enote storitev porabite po svoje, glede na potrebevašega podjetja. Ena enota je enaka minuti pogovora vvsa slovenska omrežja ali enemu sporočilu SMS/MMSali 1 MB prenosa podatkov.Obstoječi zakup lahko tudi nadgradite. Po potrebipodjetja enostavno dodate nove uporabnike aliprilagodite količino zakupljenih enot.NOVO!SKUPNI POSLOVNI ZAKUPIZBRANAKOLI^INAENOTVeč uporabnikov izbere količino enot,ki jih uporabljajo skupaj.Verjamemo v vas.Paket Skupni poslovni zakup lahko sklene fizična oseba, ki opravlja poslovno dejavnost, samostojni podjetnik posameznik in pravna oseba. Naročniški paket Skupni poslovni zakup vključuje najmanj dve naročniški razmerji in najmanj2.000 enot storitev, ki jih vključena naročniška razmerja lahko porabijo za pogovore v vsa slovenska omrežja, pošiljanje SMS/MMS sporočil in paketni prenos podatkov, za ceno najmanj 50 EUR mesečno. Znesek skupne mesečnenaročnine za paket Skupni poslovni zakup pa je odvisen od števila dodatnih naročniških razmerij, ki jih naročnik vključi v ta paket in morebitnega zakupa dodatnih količin, ki jih lahko naročnik spreminja po 1.000 dodatnih enot storitev.Cena za vsakih dodatnih 1.000 enot storitev znaša 10 EUR. Vključene količine veljajo za storitve, opravljene v domačem omrežju Mobitel v okviru enega obračunskega obdobja. Neporabljene količine se ne prenašajo v naslednjeobračunsko obdobje. Za obračun pogovorov velja interval 60/1, kar pomeni, da se prva minuta obračuna v celoti, nadaljnji pogovor pa po sekundah. Pri obračunavanju sporočil SMS/MMS se kot obračunska enota upošteva poslanosporočilo SMS/MMS, pri obračunavanju prenosa podatkov pa se kot obračunska enota upošteva 1kB prenesenih podatkov. Cenik storitev nad vključeno količino je objavljen na www.mobitel.si. S sklenitvijo naročniškega razmerja za paketSkupni poslovni zakup Telekom Slovenije, d.d. naročniku zaračuna priključno takso v višini 11,87 EUR, v primeru spremembe iz obstoječega naročniškega paketa za storitve Mobitel na paket Skupni poslovni zakup pa naročniku zaračunaenkratni znesek v višini 9 EUR. Cene so navedene v EUR in vključujejo DDV.Slike so simbolične. Telekom Slovenije, d. d., si pridržuje pravico do spremembe cen in pogojev. Za dodatne informacije obiščite najbližji Telekomov center, www.telekom.si ali pokličite Center za pomoč uporabnikom na 080 8000 ali 041 700 700.

CMYCMMYKAJ POČNETETA VIKEND?CYCMYKTOPTEDNAZagotovite si ugodne letalske vozovnice!Ne zamudite Top ponudbe tedna, saj vas v njej vsak teden čaka novapriložnost, da preživite fantastičen vikend v enem izmed evropskih mest.Toda pozor! Število vozovnic v Top ponudbi je omejeno.Vabimo vas, da se na www.adria.si naročite na e-novice invsak ponedeljek boste o Top ponudbi obveščeni med prvimi.Vozovnice veljajo za direktne lete na določen datum odhoda in prihoda. Kupljene vozovnice ni možnozamenjati. Več informacij o ponudbi in splošnih pogojih na spletnem mestu www.adria.si.www.adria.si

PISMO / LETTERDear Passenger,A very warm welcome to you aboard thisAdria Airways aircraft.Adria is an airline that has operated successfully for morethan half a century as a regional carrier linking specificparts of Europe. We boast a strong tradition and hightechnical skills of individual staff members, who feel aclear loyalty to their company. It is this that allows us tomaintain our position among Europe’s regional carriers,despite the occasionally challenging business climate.drage potnice, cenjeni potniki!Dobrodošli in prisrčno pozdravljeni na krovu letala Adrie Airways!Adria je letalska družba, ki že več kot polstoletja uspešno deluje kot regionalnadružba in povezuje posamezne predeleEvrope. Je družba s tradicijo in visoko tehnološkousposobljenostjo posameznikov,ki čutijo pripadnost svojemu podjetju. Pravzato ohranja svoje mesto med evropskimiregionalnimi prevozniki kljub včasih neugodnimposlovnim razmeram.S poslovanjem družbe v letošnjem letu smozadovoljni in rezultati so boljši kot lani, karnas navdaja z elanom. Naše vodilo je: šebolj se približati vsem potnikom, tako tistim,ki že letijo z nami, kot tudi tistim, ki o temše razmišljajo. Po naših analizah sestavljajoAdrijine potnike tri različne skupinepotnikov, vsaka s svojimi značilnostmi in potrebami.Prva skupina so poslovni potniki. Tipotrebujejo Adrio predvsem kot mrežnegaprevoznika in njeno sodelovanje s partnerskimidružbami, kar posamezniku omogočadostopnost do svetovne mreže poletov invse ostale ugodnosti, ki sledijo iz teh razmerij.Za skupino potnikov, ki jih označujemoz nazivom »etnika«, poskrbi naša letalskadružba s svojo dobro razvejano mrežo poletoviz držav zahodne Evrope na Balkan. In šetretja skupina: to so potniki, ki se poslužujejoletalskih prevozov za izlete, potovanjain počitnice. Prav k tej skupini je v zadnjemobdobju najbolj usmerjeno naše delovanje.Fotografija: Igor LapajneŽelimo jim namreč ponuditi ugodno cenoza potovanja od točke do točke. V skladu stem smo pripravili stalno ponudbo »Kupiprej, potuj ceneje«, kjer si potnik z zgodnjimnakupom vozovnice zagotovi nižjo ceno.S posameznimi akcijami to ponudbo šedopolnjujemo, kot na primer z akcijo »Toptedna«, kjer je potnikom vsak teden na voljodruga destinacija po posebni ceni.Naša prva in osnovna naloga ostaja zagotavljanjenajvišje stopnje varnosti letenja.Temu sledi skrb za dobro počutje in udobjepotnikov; pri naših naporih za dosego tegacilja nam veliko pomaga tudi vaše mnenje.Veselilo nas bo, če nam boste posredovalisvoja opažanja, tako pohvale kot tudikritike, in izpolnili anketni list Cenimo vašemnenje, ki vam je na voljo pri kabinskemosebju. Že vnaprej se vam zahvaljujem zavaše mnenje.Čas počitnic je pred nami. V kolikor še neveste, kam bi se odpravili, pobrskajte ponaših spletnih straneh www.adria.si inmorda vas Adrijina krila ponesejo novimdogodivščinam naproti.Kmalu na svidenje na enem izmed naših letov!Mark Anžur,predsednik upraveWe are pleased with the company’s performance thisyear, which is better than the previous year, and this fillsus with a particular elan. Our guiding principle is to bein tune with all travellers, meaning those who alreadyfly with us and those who are thinking about it. Ouranalysis shows that Adria passengers comprise threedistinct groups, each with their own traits and needs.The first group is business travellers. This group needsAdria mainly as a network carrier that collaborateswith partner airlines, since this offers the individualtraveller access to global flight networks and all theother benefits such collaboration provides. Then thegroup that has connections with South East Europe iswell served by our extensive network of services linkingthe countries of Western Europe with the Balkans. Thatleaves the third group, comprising passengers who flyfor special trips, personal travel and holidays. It is thisgroup that has attracted our most focused attentionrecently, and we aim to offer them the best possibleprice for their journey from point to point. In line withthis aim we have set up a permanent special offer called“The sooner you buy, the cheaper you fly”, where earlybooking will ensure you cheaper tickets. We are alsoenhancing this with special promotions such as the“offer of the week”, where each week we offer passengersanother destination at a special discount.Our first and primary task remains ensuring thehighest level of safety in flight. Then comes our concernfor passenger wellbeing and comfort. Your opinionis essential to our efforts to achieve this, so we wouldask you to let us know your views, whether praise orcriticism, by completing the brief survey sheet, whichour cabin crew will be pleased to provide. Thank you inadvance for sharing your opinion!The holiday season is almost upon us. If you still are notsure where you want to go, you can browse our websitewww.adria.si and perhaps Adria’s wings will carry youoff to new experiences.We look forward to seeing you again on an Adria flight!Mark AnžurPresident of the Management Board and CEO3

Adria Airways In-Flight MagazineBrezplačen izvod / Your personal copyRevija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways.Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine is complimentary on Adria Airways flights.Izdajatelj / Publisher:Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d.Adria Airways, The Airline of SloveniaZgornji Brnik 130 h,4210 Brnik – AerodromUrednica / Editor-in-chief:Barbara Mihevc BukovecTel. / Phone: + 386 (0)4 259 4541E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.siUredništvo / Editorial board:Adrijana Šelj, Dušanka Prelc PremateOglaševanje / Advertising:Alenka DvoršakTel. / Phone: + 386 (0)4 259 4526E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.siSLO34Naslovnica / Cover:GettyimagesOblikovanje in AD / Design and AD:IDEARNA d.o.o.Prevod / Translated by:Amidas d. o. o.ENG4028786646Lektorica / Proofreader:Vera SamohodFotoliti / Photolithography:SET, d.o.o.Tisk / Printed by:Korotan – Ljubljana, d.o.o.ISSN 1318-07895854Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjevali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie Airways.Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajateljne prevzema nikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo.The opinions expressed in this publications are those of the authors orpersons interviewed alone and do not necessarily reflect the views ofAdria Airways. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited.84The publisher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.4

VsebinaContents28.adrijin potnik / ADRIA PASSENGERMiki Musterlegenda stripa in animiranega filmaa legend of comics and animated filmsMarjan žibernaIGOR LAPAJNE58. urbanistanmatjaža krivicaURBANISTAN by Matjaž Krivickatja golobmatjaž krivic34.40.46.dESTINACIJAbruseljDESTINATION brusselsdamijan jagodicdamijan jagodic, profimediaokusiti slovenijotaste sloveniadr. janez bogatajtomo jeseničnikSrce krasaTHE HEART OF THE KARSTmatjaž potokararhiv l. spacala66. živahni metalci v rajskemokoljuHappy metalheads in gorgeoussurroundingscarmen lebaniztok dimc74. imago sloveniae - PodobaslovenijeDegustacija vrhunske glasbene umetnostiIMAGO SLOVENIAE – IMAGE OFSLOVENIAA sampling of exquisite musical artsvlasta mlakararhiv imaga78. rafting na savi in njenihpritokihRafting on the Sava and its tributariesjanez mihovec54.kraški ovčarji se nebojijo volkovKarst Shepherds aren't afraid ofwolvesmateja a. hrastariztok dimc84. omanMirna oaza, ki ji je vredno nameniti svoj časA tranquil oasis that is well worth your timeNina kogej5

Novosti - newsPoletni vozni red31. marca 2013 je stopil v veljavo poletni vozni red. Adria Airwayspovezuje z več kot 170 rednimi leti tedensko slovenskoprestolnico z 18 destinacijami. Adrijina letala vas popeljejo vAmsterdam, Beograd, Bruselj, Carigrad, na Dunaj, v Frankfurt,Kobenhavn, Manchester, Moskvo, Muenchen, Pariz, Podgorico,Prištino, Sarajevo, Skopje, Split, Zuerich in v Tirano. Kot članicazdruženja letalskih prevoznikov Star Alliance omogoča AdriaAirways zelo dobre in cenovno ugodne povezave z destinacijamipo vsem svetu. Vsakodnevno opravi združenje StarAlliance kar 21.900 letov na 1329 letališč v 194 državah.Redni poleti med Prištino in nemškima mestoma Frankfurtin Muenchen so v Adrijinem voznem redu že od decembra2010, Adrijina letala pa z dvema tedenskima čarterskima poletomapovezujejo Prištino tudi z italijansko Verono.V poletni sezoni bo Adria Airways s čarterskimi leti, ki jihopravlja v sodelovanju s turističnimi agencijami, povezovalaLjubljano s številnimi počitniškimi destinacijami, predvsem vSredozemlju. Iz Ljubljane bo tedensko letela na naslednja letališča:v Grčijo v Heraklion, na Rodos, Kos, Santorini, Karpatos,Kefalonijo, Zakintos, Skiatos, Samos, Lezbos in Lefkas/Preveza.Letela bo na Menorco, Palmo de Mallorco in na Tenerife v Španiji,v Antalyo v Turčiji, v Sharm el Sheikh in Hurgado v Egiptuin v Agadir v Maroku.Summer TIMETABLEThe summer timetable applies from 31 March 2013. Adria Airwaysoperates over 170 scheduled flights each week, connectingthe Slovenian capital with 18 destinations. Adria's planes will takeyou to Amsterdam, Belgrade, Brussels, Istanbul, Vienna, Frankfurt,Copenhagen, Manchester, Moscow, Munich, Paris, Podgorica,Pristina, Sarajevo, Skopje, Split, Tirana and Zurich. As a member ofthe Star Alliance network, Adria Airways is able to offer excellentconnections to destinations throughout the world at affordableprices. Star Alliance members operate a total of 21,900 flightsdaily to 1329 airports in 194 countries.Scheduled Pristina-Frankfurt and Pristina-Munich flights havebeen a part of the Adria timetable since December 2010. The airlinealso operates two charter flights every week between Pristinaand Verona in Italy.During the summer season, Adria Airways will partner with travelagencies to offer charter flights from Ljubljana to a number ofpopular holiday destinations, particularly in the Mediterranean.There will be weekly flights from Ljubljana to the following airports:Heraclion, Rhodes, Kos, Santorini, Karpathos, Kefalonia, Zakynthos,Skiathos, Samos, Lesbos and Lefkas/Preveza in Greece; Menorca,Palma de Mallorca and Tenerife in Spain; Antalya in Turkey; Sharmel Sheikh and Hurghada in Egypt; and Agadir in Morocco.foto: Mark Anžur, predsednik uprave Adrie Airways/ President of the Management Board & CEOin/and dr. Temel Kotil, predsednik uprave Turkish Airlines/ President of the Management Board & CEOLeti pod skupno oznako naliniji Ljubljana–IstanbulAdria Airways in Turkish Airlines sta poglobila medsebojno sodelovanje s podpisompogodbe o letih pod skupno oznako na liniji Ljubljana–Istanbul.Prevoznika potnikom skupaj omogočata dva leta iz Ljubljane do Istanbulana dan ter izboljšane povezave do ciljev v Turčiji, na Srednji in Daljni vzhod, vmrežo poletov pa Turkish Airlines dodaja še nove povezave v Afriko in ZDA.»Prepričani smo, da bo dogovor o letih pod skupno oznako pripomogel kpovečanju prometa med državama, še posebej na področju turizma. Istanbulse tudi uveljavlja kot odlično vozlišče za medcelinska potovanja, kar potnikomomogoča večjo izbiro pri načrtovanju potovanj,« je dejal predsednik upraveAdrie Airways Mark Anžur.Potniki bodo lahko s tem sodelovanjem enostavno in priročno prestopali medobema partnerskima letalskima družbama Star Alliancea.Codeshare Flights betweenLjubljana and IstanbulAdria Airways and Turkish Airlines have intensified their cooperation by signing acodeshare agreement for Ljubljana-Istanbul flights that entered into force with the2013 summer timetable.The two carriers will together provide two flights from Ljubljana to Istanbul per dayand improved connections to destinations in Turkey and to the Middle East andFar East. Turkish Airlines also plans to supplement its network of flights with newconnections to Africa and the USA.In the words of Adria Airways CEO Mark Anžur: "We're certain that the codeshareagreement will contribute to increased traffic between the two countries, especiallyin tourism. Istanbul is becoming increasingly established as a prime hub for intercontinentaltravel, giving passengers greater choice in planning their journeys.”This cooperation will make it easy and convenient for customers to connectbetween the two Star Alliance partner airlines.6

AKTUALNO - latest OFFERSUjemi ugoden polet …Na vseh Adrijinih rednih linijah imamo ugodne ponudbe po načelu»Kupi prej, potuj ceneje«. Da bi našo ponudbo še bolj približali vašimpotrebam, imamo na voljo znižane cene potovanj tudi med tednom.Adria Airways Special Offers!Special offers are available on all of Adria’s scheduled services on a “buy early,fly for less” basis. To make our services even more attractive, reduced fares areavailable for travel during the week.Adrijine E-noviceVabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavitena Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o našihnovostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenihinformacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic.Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!Adria E-newsWhy not visit our website www.adria.si and subscribe to Adria’s E-news service?Once a month you will receive updates on new services and special offers– straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuable source ofinformation and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.Let information be your advantage!Za vikend z Adrio Airways nakrajši oddih s »Top ponudbotedna«Adria nudi svojim potnikom še posebej ugodne cene za potovanja obkoncu tedna. Potniki lahko iz Ljubljane odletijo v eno od evropskih mest,kamor leti slovenski letalski prevoznik. Ponudba je vsak ponedeljek objavljenana spletni strani www.adria.si in na družabnih medijih facebook intwiter. Število sedežev je v sklopu te ponudbe omejeno.Take a Weekend Break withAdria's "Top Offer of the Week"Adria offers particularly low prices for the flights at the end of the week.Passengers can fly from Ljubljana to one of the cities in Europe that is onAdria’s flight schedule. The offer is published every Monday on the websitewww.adria.si and social networks (Facebook, Twitter).Adria ponovno leti v SplitSplit kot pomembno gospodarsko, prometno in turistično središče vednoznova privablja naše potnike, zato v poletnem voznem redu ponovnovzpostavljamo linijo do te obmorske destinacije. Redne letalske povezavemed Ljubljano in Splitom so ob sobotah. Ker je Split mesto z bogatopreteklostjo, zgodovinskimi in kulturnimi spomeniki, je primeren tako zaizlete ali pa kot izhodišče za počitnice na bližnjih otokih.Več o ugodnih ponudbah si oglejte na naši spletni strani www.adria.si.Pridružite se nam na FacebookuJoin us on Facebookhttp://www.facebook.com/AdriaAirwaysAdria resumes flights to SplitSplit is an important tourist centre, as well as a regional economic andcommunications hub, and has always been popular with our passengers.This year's summer timetable sees Adria reintroduce its service to this coastaldestination, with scheduled Saturday flights from Ljubljana. BecauseSplit is a town with a rich past, with many historic and cultural monuments,it is an ideal destination for a short break or as a starting point for aholiday on one of the nearby islands.For more details of special offers visit our website www.adria.siSledite nam na TwitterjuFollow us on Twitterhttp://twitter.com/adria_airways7

Naložba v zdravjeSe tudi vi kdaj počutite brez energije in volje?Predlagamo vam program razstrupljanja telesa v TermahŠmarješke Toplice. Svoje telo boste očistili in izboljšali življenje.Stres, neredna prehrana, pomanjkanje časa… Vse to je breme, ki ima negativen učinekna zdravje. Rešitev iz začaranega krogaje lahko čiščenje telesa - pod strokovnimvodstvom.V Termah Šmarješke Toplice so že pred letirazvili t. i. programe medicinskega velnesa,s katerimi se razstrupljanja lotevajo celovito.»Detoksikacijo najbolje dosežemo sprehranskim postom s sadnimi in zelenjavnimisokovi, s telesno vadbo ter vrsto terapij,ki pospešujejo izločanje odvečnih snoviiz telesa,« pravi primarij Tomislav Majić, dr.med., iz Term Šmarješke Toplice.»Čiščenje je najboljši način, da uredimosvoje notranje biološko okolje, kar je zelopomembno, saj sta od tega odvisna našezdravje in dolžina življenja.«RazstRupljeni smo kotpReRojeni5- ali večdnevne individualne programesestavi zdravnik specialist skupaj s svetovalkoza prehrano in športnim trenerjem.Medicinskega posta se je dobro lotiti podstrokovnim vodstvom, saj je učinek dolgotrajnejši,ne nazadnje pa je pomembnatudi varnost.Ljudje se vedno bolj zavedamo pomenazdravja. Strokovnjakom v šmarjeških termahin njihovim programom, ki vključujejotudi zdravo hujšanje in obvladovanje stresa,zaupa vedno več gostov, iz Slovenije inevropskih držav.▶poletje je čas za spremembe:5-dnevni program razstrupljanjaže za 529 EUR (program in bivanje vhotelu Vitarium**** sup.)

Invest in your healthDo you ever feel moody and tired?Do you lack energy?We have the perfect solution for you- a detox programme at ŠmarješkeToplice Health Resort. It will help youcleanse your body and improve thequality of your life.Stress, inappropriate nutrition, lack of time …All this burdens our body and has a negative effecton our health. The solution for escaping from thevicious circle might be cleansing our body – ledand monitored by professionals.The so-called medical wellness programmesthat include a comprehensive approach towardsdetoxification were developed at Šmarješke TopliceHealth Resort a couple of years ago. »The best wayof detoxification is with the help of a fasting dietwith fruit and vegetable juices, physical exerciseand a series of treatments that stimulate theexcretion of surplus substances from the body,«says primarius Tomislav Majić, MD, from ŠmarješkeToplice Health Resort.»Cleansing is the best way for us to fix our innerbiological environment that has a major effect onour health and longevity.«Being detoxified makes us feelrejuvenated5- or multi-day tailor-made programmes arecarried out by a doctor, a nutrition expert and asports trainer. Namely, fasting should be led andmonitored by professionals for the effect this waylasts longer and it is much safer as well.People have undoubtedly become more aware ofthe meaning of staying healthy, for an increasingnumber of guests, coming from the whole Europe,choose the programmes carried out at ŠmarješkeToplice Health Resort which also include healthyweight-loss and stress management.▶ summertime is time for changes:a 5-day detox programme from 529 EUR(programme and accommodation at theVitarium Hotel**** sup.)terme Šmarješke toplicet: 00386 (0)7 38 43 400e: vitarium@terme-krka.siwww.terme-krka.si

KDOR PREJ PRIDE,LETI CENEJEV PARIZ!THE FASTER YOU BUY,THE CHEAPERYOU FLYTO PARIS!www.adria.si

ADRIA airwaysvse, kar vas zanima o letalstvuV TOKRATNI ŠTEVILKI ODGOVARJA KAPITANTOMAŽ KONJAR NA ZANIMIVO VPRAŠANJE,ZAKAJ IN KAKO LETALO LETI (1. DEL).Letalo je tehnični sistem, ki deluje znotraj zemeljskeatmosfere. Letenje se prične v trenutku,ko letalo izgubi stik s stezo, in se konča, ko seje zopet dotakne. Vmes se giblje skozi zrak in jepodvrženo njegovim zakonitostim.Zrak je mešanica plinov, med katerimi imanajvečji delež dušik (78 volumskih %), sledijomu kisik (21 volumskih %), ogljikov dioksid (1 volumski%), žlahtni plini, voda in nečistoče. Vodase lahko nahaja v zraku v treh agregatnih stanjih(v trdnem v obliki ledu, tekočem v obliki kapljicin v plinastem kot vodna para). Stanje zraka sespreminja z vremenom, fizikalne lastnosti zraka,ki določajo njegovo stanje, pa so temperatura,tlak, gostota in viskoznost.Letala so plovila, ki so težja od zraka. Ne morejoleteti v mirujočem zraku, saj so težja od masezraka, ki jo izpodrivajo. Odvisna so od gibanjaskozi zrak, ki na površinah letala ustvarja vzgon.Teorija letenja zajema dve področji:• aerodinamiko – to je veda, ki se ukvarja zgibanjem zraka in razlago sil, ki delujejo natelo, ki se giblje skozi zrak;• mehaniko letenja, ki proučuje sposobnostiter stabilnost in krmilnost plovila, ki segiblje skozi zrak.VzgonEnkratna lastnost letal je, da se lahko dvignejo vzrak. Temu nasprotuje sila zemeljske gravitacije,ki deluje na vsa telesa na zemlji ali v njeni bližini.Ta sila je bolj znana kot teža. Da se letalo lahkodvigne, mora biti sila, ki ga dviga, večja odteže, ki deluje v nasprotni smeri. Silo, ki dvigaletalo, imenujemo vzgon – tega ustvarjajokrila, ko se letalo giblje skozi zrak.letenja, saj mu to omogoča razumevanje obnašanjaletala v zraku. Tako mu je v vsakem trenutkupopolnoma jasno, kaj se z letalom dogaja, inbo tudi v kritičnih trenutkih pravilno reagiral.Tomaž Konjar, kapitan CRJ-200/900THE FAQS OFAVIATIONIN THIS ISSUE, CAPTAIN TOMAŽ KONJARANSWERS TO THE FASCINATING QUES-TIONS OF WHY AND HOW AN AIRCRAFTFLIES (PART 1)An aircraft is a technical system that functionswithin the Earth’s atmosphere. An aircraft beginsflying at the moment it loses contact with therunway, and stops flying when it makes contactagain. In between those moments, it movesthrough the air and is subjected to its laws.Air is a mixture of gases, predominantly nitrogen(78% by volume), followed by oxygen (21%volume), carbon dioxide (1% volume), noble gases,water and impurities. Water can be found in air inthree aggregate states (solid in the form of ice, fluidin the form of droplets and gaseous as steam).The state of air changes with the weather, and thephysical properties of air that determine its stateare temperature, pressure, density and viscosity.Aircraft are craft that are heavier than air. Theycannot remain stationary in the air, because theyare heavier than the mass of air they are displacing.They depend on movement through the air,which provides lift on the surfaces of the aircraft.The theory of flight covers two fields:• Aerodynamics: this is the science that deals withthe movement of air and the explanation of theforces that act on a body moving through the air.• Mechanics of aviation: this studies the capability,stability and manoeuvrability of a craftmoving through the air.LiftThe unique property of aircraft is that they can riseinto the air. This is opposed by the Earth’s gravitationalforce, which acts on all bodies on the Earthor in its vicinity. This force is better known as weight.In order for an aircraft to rise, the force that lifts theaircraft must be greater that the weight acting inthe opposite direction. The force that allows anaircraft to rise is called lift. Lift is generated by thewings, when the aircraft moves through the air.Forces acting on aircraft during flightLift is the force that is generated by the differencein air pressure between the upper and lower wingsurfaces. The shape of the wing causes the speedof the air flowing over the top of the wing to begreater than the air flowing underneath it. The differentspeeds have the effect of creating differentair pressures, thereby generating the force that actsin the upward direction.The fundamentals of the theory of flight are ofessential importance to the pilot, since this knowledgeenables him to understand the behaviour ofthe aircraft in the air. In this way he always knowsexactly what is happening to the aircraft and isable to react correctly at critical moments.Tomaž Konjar, CRJ 200/900 captainvzgon/liftSile, ki delujejo na letalo med letomVzgon je sila, ki nastane zaradi razlike zračnegatlaka med zgornjo in spodnjo površino krila.Oblika krila povzroči, da je hitrost obtekajočegazraka zgoraj višja kot pod krilom. Različnihitrosti imata za posledico različen zračni tlakin nastanek sile, ki deluje v smeri nazgor.Za pilota so bistvenega pomena osnove teorijepot letenja/flight pathvzgon/lift = teža/weightpotisk/thrust = upor/dragpotisk/thrustteža/weightupor/drag11

ADRIA airwaysPredstavniki letalskih družb na srečanju v LjubljaniAdria Airways je v Ljubljani 10. in 11. aprila ponovno gostilapisano druščino predstavnikov letalskih družb. Prišli so izskoraj 100 držav z vsega sveta. V Grand hotelu Union je potekala8. generalna skupščina ZED-MIBA. To je krovna organizacija,ki deluje pod okriljem IATA Mednarodnega združenjaletalskih prevoznikov, njeno poslanstvo pa je postavljanjestandardov za potovanja zaposlenih v letalskih družbah, kiso njene članice.Organizacija ZED-MIBA ima trenutno 211 članov – polnopravnih ali pridruženih.Letalski prevozniki skladno z usmeritvami ZED-MIBA sklepajomedsebojne dogovore s področja izdajanja letalskih vozovnic. V letalskiindustriji, kjer so spremembe stalnica, zlasti na račun tehnologije, setudi standardi ZED-MIBA nenehno spreminjajo. Izvoljeni člani svetaZED-MIBA v sodelovanju z ostalimi člani opredelijo v sklopu delovnihskupin problem, definirajo njegove različne vidike in oblikujejo končnipredlog ter ga z glasovanjem potrdijo na generalni skupščini.8. generalna skupščina ZED-MIBA v Ljubljani je prinesla kar nekaj novostis področja izdaje letalskih dokumentov, njihove veljavnosti in uporabe.Delovne skupine bodo pripravile predloge do naslednje generalne skupščine,ki bo leta 2014 v Ženevi.V Adrii Airways smo izjemno veseli, da nas je v Ljubljani obiskala takopisana množica kolegov, ki so bili nad našim mestom izjemno očarani;družabni vrhunec pa je predstavljala gala večerja na Ljubljanskem gradu,ki sta jo sponzorirala agencija SPIRIT (Slovenska turistična organizacija) inTurizem Ljubljana.12

Airline representatives meet in LjubljanaOd leve proti desni/ From left to right:Benjamin Demel (US Airways),Luanne Stetson (Alaska Airlines),Ivana Vostra (CSA Czech Airlines),Bob Nipperess (Cathay Pacific),Isabelle Langlet (Air France),Steve Jensen (Delta Airlines),Sylvia Ibach (Air Berlin),Alen Mlekuž (Adria Airways).On 10 and 11 April, Adria Airways once again hosted a diversegathering of airline representatives. Attendees came fromnearly 100 countries across the world. The 8th ZED-MIBA ForumAnnual General Meeting was held at the Grand Hotel Union.THE ZED-MIBA FORUM is an umbrella organisation that operatesunder the IATA, the International Air Transport Association.Its mission involves establishing standards for the travel ofemployees at its member airlines.The ZED-MIBA Forum currently has 211 members (including both full andassociate members). In line with ZED-MIBA policies, airlines enter into mutualagreements for issuing airline tickets. Change is a constant in the airlineindustry, especially as regards technology, and ZED-MIBA standards arealso constantly changing. The elected members of the ZED-MIBA Council,in cooperation with its other members, address the issue within the contextof working groups; they explore its different aspects and formulate a finalproposal, which is approved by a vote at the General Meeting.The 8th ZED-MIBA Forum General Meeting in Ljubljana brought a number ofnew developments in the field of issuing air travel documents and in the validityand use of these documents. The working groups will now draw up proposalsfor the next General Meeting, which will take place in 2014 in Geneva.At Adria Airways we are exceptionally pleased to have had such a colourfulgathering of our colleagues visiting us in Ljubljana – all the more so sincethey were more than delighted with our city. The high point of the event’ssocial activities was the gala dinner at Ljubljana Castle, which was sponsoredby SPIRIT (Slovenian Tourist Board) and Ljubljana Tourism Board.13

ADRIA smo ljudjejadralno letenjeBesedilo: Niko Slana Fotografije: Tomaž Favai in osebni arhiv Z. ŠtrukljaAdria Airways se lahko pohvali, da imav svojih vrstah vedno nekaj izvrstnihjadralcev, ki posegajo po visokih uvrstitvahna velikih jadralskih tekmovanjih.SEBASTJAN RAMŠAK–SEBAEden predanih jadralnih pilotov, ki opravljasvojo poklicno pot v Adrii Airways, je SebastjanRamšak, prvi častnik na letalih BombardierCRJ-200/900. Že več kot desetletje gaštejejo med najboljše slovenske jadralce. Leta2001 je osvojil naslov mladinskega državnegaprvaka, dvakrat zmagal med člani (2005,2006), kar trikrat pa je bil viceprvak (2003,2004, 2007). Leta 2009 se je na SP v standardnemrazredu v Prievidzi na Slovaškemuvrstil na 19. mesto, leta 2012 pa je zmagal navelikem spomladanskem tekmovanju v Nitri.To je najbrž njegov doslej najvišji jadralskitrenutek. Zatrjuje, da si bo nekoč kupil lastnojadralno letalo in se še bolj predal jadralnemušportu, ki je zanj konjiček brez primerjave.»Če se mi bodo nekoč uresničile sanje, boto letalo klubskega razreda, ki je zame edinodosegljivo. Posvetil se bom evropskim insvetovnim tekmovanjem.«Seba, kot ga kličejo prijatelji, je človek odprtegaduha, prežet z optimizmom, ki ga nikoline zapusti. Tudi letos je na tradicionalnemprijateljskem tekmovanju za pokal LX naMadžarskem vztrajal do konca, čeprav so naugodne vremenske razmere za letenje čakaliprecej dolgo.Kljub svoji predanosti jadralnemu športu Sebanikoli ne pozabi na varnost. Meni, da je dobro,če so prometni piloti tudi jadralci: »Jadralci precejlažje osvojijo temelje samega letanja, polegtega pa jadralni piloti razmišljamo daleč naprejin težko nas kaj preseneti. O vsakem letuznamo razmišljati širše in dlje, lahko bi dejal,da so nam nekatera ravnanja, ki so pomembnaza vsak let, vsajena že v male možgane.«V Adrii Airways je veliko jadralnih pilotov innajbrž je tudi to drobna kakovost slovenskegaletalskega prevoznika, ki posredno vpliva tudina razpoloženje med piloti: »S kolegi jadralcise pogosto pogovarjamo o jadralnem letenju.Včasih, ko že letimo na varni višini in je jasendan, si pod seboj ogledujem teren. Zanimame, kako potekajo gorske verige, kaj vpliva nanastanek vremena. Tu med nami, piloti potniškihletal, ki smo jadralci, ni razlike. Vse naszanima, kje in kako bi lahko leteli v jadralnihletalih. Ko letim po Evropi, dobro vem, kakšenzrak je na eni in drugi strani Alp, kakšni so pritleh vetrovi. S poklicnimi leti si prometni pilotiustvarjamo bolj jasno podobo o možnostihjadralnega letenja.«Sebastjan o svojih bližnjih ciljih ne govori, sajje bil letos že na dveh tekmovanjih. Zagotovoga bomo srečali na državnem prvenstvu, ki boletos julija v Prievidzi. Navijali bomo za njegovtretji naslov državnega prvaka.14

FRANCE ŠTRUKELJLetos mineva trideset let od velikih uspehovAdrijinega pilota in jadralnega letalca FrancetaŠtruklja. Z dosežki, predvsem pa s svojim razmišljanjemje v svojem času naredil pomembenkorak h kakovosti jadralnega letenja v Sloveniji.Spomnimo se dveh njegovih naslovov državnegaprvaka, kar petkrat je bil najboljši slovenskijadralec, bil je viceprvak predsvetovnegaprvenstva v Räyskäli na Finskem, udeležil seje tudi dveh svetovnih prvenstev – v Waikeriiv Avstraliji in v Räyskäli na Finskem. V Avstralijije ob velikih imenih svetovnega jadralnegašporta letel samozavestno, postavil je nacionalnarekorda v FAI (Federation AeronautiqueInternationale) trikotnikih na 300 in 500 km.Že kot deček je sanjaril o jadralnih letalih. Svojopot v leškem aeroklubu je začel leta 1967 pripadalcih. Leto kasneje se je podal med jadralce.Napredoval je izjemno hitro in že po nekaj letihse je s svojim letenjem uvrstil med najuspešnejše.Bil je jadralec in motorni pilot, in ko se je začeluveljavljati kot poklicni pilot v Adrii Airways,je imel za seboj že uspešno jadralsko kariero.Kaj vse je pripomoglo k njegovi rasti? Predvsemprijateljsko okolje leškega aerokluba, vkaterem je imel ob sebi nekaj enakovrednihjadralcev, ki so spodbujali drug drugega;srečno naključje je bil tudi upravnik Alpskegaletalskega centra Lesce, France Mirnik–Haklc,kasneje prav tako pilot Adrie Airways, saj gaje spodbujal pri njegovih načrtih. Za FrancetaŠtruklja bi lahko dejali, da je dajal ritem slovenskemujadralnemu letenju v sedemdesetihin na začetku osemdesetih let, v obdobju, kov letalstvu še niso uporabljali izraza »plovilo«;letala, s katerimi je letel (standard cirrus, DG101, standard jantar), pa so bila z današnjegapogleda letala klubskega razreda, torej najnižjegav družini FAI razredov. Tudi zato so njegovidosežki še danes izjemno zanimivi, denimo,FAI trikotniki 500 km z obratnimi točkami vSloveniji pa tudi njegova leta do cilja in nazaj vBosno, dolga preko 600 km.Francetovo letalsko pot so aprila predstaviliv Galeriji Ferda Mayerja v Tržiču. Štrukelj nibil samo dober letalec, bil je tudi izjemnorazgledan človek in vsestranski športnik. Takokot mnogi v Tržiču je rad smučal na Zelenici,hodil je v hribe, pridružil se je ljubiteljskimsmučarskim tekačem in se udeležil celo znamenitegasmučarskega tekaškega maratonaFinlandia. Poletne dneve je z jadralskimiprijatelji preživljal tudi s kajakom na Savi,raziskovali so hrvaške in bosanske reke. Zdise, da so bili to najsrečnejši Francetovi dnevi,še posebno zato, ker je bil takrat že pilot vAdrii Airways. V svojem razmeroma kratkemdejavnem letalskem obdobju je pustil zaseboj neizbrisno jadralsko sled in še danesje za mnoge izziv veliki jadralski trikotnik 500km s skrajnimi točkami v Sloveniji. Morda seprav v tem dosežku kaže simbolična veličinaFranceta Štruklja.15

ADRIA is about peopleGLIDINGAdria Airways canpride itself onalways having withinits ranks severaloutstanding gliderpilots who placewell at major glidingcompetitions.Text: Niko Slana Photographs: Tomaž Favaiand the personal archives of Z. ŠtrukeljSEBASTJAN “SEBA” RAMŠAKA dedicated glider pilot who has forged a careerwith Adria Airways, Sebastjan Ramšak is a firstofficer on the Bombardier CRJ-200/900 aircraft.For over a decade he has been regarded as oneof the very best Slovenian glider pilots. In 2001he secured the title of national youth champion,twice he won among the members (2005, 2006)and he was runner up three times (2003, 2004,2007). In 2009 he placed 19th in the WorldChampionship for the standard class in Prievidzain Slovakia, and in 2012 he won the big springtournament in Nitra. That was probably his biggestmoment in gliding to date. He says that oneday he will buy his own glider and devote himselfeven more to this sport, which he regards as anincomparable pastime. “If my dreams come true,this will be a club class plane, which is the onlything I could afford. I’ll devote myself to Europeanand world competitions.”Seba, as his friends call him, is an open-spiritedman, full of an optimism that never deserts him.This year he again persevered to the end at thetraditional friendly competition in Hungary forthe LX cup, although they had to wait a long timefor the right weather conditions for flying.Despite his dedication to the sport of gliding,Seba is never one to neglect safety. He thinksit’s a good thing for commercial pilots to flygliders. “Glider pilots can grasp much better thefundamental issues of actual flying, plus gliderpilots have to think far ahead and it’s hard foranything to take us by surprise. We are able tothink more broadly and further ahead for eachflight, and I could say that certain actions thatare important for every flight are already implantedin our cerebellums.” There are plenty ofglider pilots at Adria Airways, and no doubt thisis another detail of quality at the Slovenian flagcarrier that indirectly contributes to the moodamong pilots: “I often talk about gliding withfellow glider pilots. Sometimes when we reachsafe cruising altitude and it’s a clear day, I checkout the terrain below. I’m interested in how themountain ranges run, and what’s affecting theweather patterns. All the commercial pilots whoare also into gliding are the same. Everything interestsus – where and how we could fly a glider.When I fly around Europe, I know very well howthe air is on one and the other side of the Alps,and the wind patterns on the ground. The yearsas commercial pilots give us a clearer picture ofthe possibilities for gliding.”Sebastjan is not talking about his immediategoals, having already been in two competitionsthis year. But we will most certainly encounterhim at the national championship in July thisyear in Prievidza. We will be cheering him on towin a possible third national championship.16

FRANCE ŠTRUKELJThis year marks 30 years since Adria pilot andglider pilot France Štrukelj enjoyed his greatestsuccess. His achievements and, above all, hisway of thinking marked a major step for his timetowards greater quality in Slovenian gliding.We remember his two national championshipvictories, the five times he was best Slovenianglider and his runner-up place at the pre-worldchampionship in Räyskälä in Finland. He alsotook part in two world championships – atWaikerie in Australia and Räyskälä in Finland.He showed great poise flying alongside the bignames of world gliding in Australia, and set a nationalrecord in the FAI (Fédération AéronautiqueInternationale) triangle over 300 km and 500 km.As a boy, he dreamed of gliding. He started thisjourney in 1967 as a parachutist at the Lesce AeroClub. A year later he joined the gliders. He showedextraordinary progress, and after just a few years hewas one of the most successful flyers. He was botha glider pilot and powered flight pilot, and whenhe started becoming established as a pilot at AdriaAirways, he already had a successful gliding careerbehind him.What was the story behind his development? Itwas mainly the friendly atmosphere of the LesceAero Club, where he rubbed shoulders with someequally good glider pilots, who encouraged eachother. Another happy coincidence was encounteringthe administrator of the Alpine AviationCentre at Lesce, Franc "Haklc" Mirnik, later alsoan Adria pilot, who encouraged him in his plans.France Štrukelj could be said to have given rhythmto Slovenian gliding in the 1970s and 1980s, aperiod in which the word "craft" was still not usedin aviation; the aircraft he flew (Standard Cirrus,DG-101, Standard Jantar) belonged to what undertoday's criteria would be the club class, in otherwords the lowest in the FAI ranking. For this reason,too, his achievements remain enthralling today,for instance the FAI triangles over 500 km withreturn points in Slovenia, and his out-and-returnflight to a turn point in Bosnia, a distance of morethan 600 km.France’s life in aviation was presented this April atthe Ferdo Mayer Gallery in Tržič. Štrukelj was notjust a good aviator, he was also an exceptionallybroad-minded person and an all-round sportsman.Like many in Tržič, he liked to ski at Zelenica,he hiked in the mountains, joined the amateurcross-country skiers and even took part in thefamous Finlandia cross-country ski marathon.He also spent summer days kayaking the Savawith his gliding friends, and they explored riversin Croatia and Bosnia. It seems that these wereFrance's happiest days, especially because hewas then already a pilot with Adria Airways. Inhis relatively short time as an active flyer, he leftbehind an indelible mark in gliding, and to this daythe challenge for many people is still the 500 kmgliding triangle around the extremities of Slovenia.It is perhaps in this achievement that we see thesymbolic greatness of France Štrukelj.17

61. Ljubljana Festival se pričenja 27. junija naslikovitem Kongresnem trgu s projektom, ki bozdruževal umetnike in umetnosti; že naslednjidan bo na isti lokaciji nastopil trenutnonajbolj popularen in iskan duo 2Cellos. Dabo Ljubljana Festival ponovno središče vašihdoživetij, kot pravi novi slogan, bodo do 10.septembra poskrbeli še izjemni umetniki, kot soBéjart Ballet, Orkester Gewandhaus Leipzig zdirigentom Riccardom Chaillyjem, Mariinskogledališče iz Sankt Peterburga z dirigentomValerijem Gergijevim, ruski koreograf BorisEifman in njegova istoimenska baletna skupina,izjemni umetniki z londonskega West Endain drugi. Program 61. Ljubljana Festivala sepoklanja 200. obletnici rojstva dveh glasbenihvelikanov Richarda Wagnerja in GiuseppejaVerdija ter v fokus postavlja rusko kulturo.»V središče programa smo postavili obletnici glasbenih genijev,200-letnici rojstva Richarda Wagnerja in Giuseppeja Verdija terizjemno umetniško ustvarjalnost Rusije. Glede Wagnerja z velikimponosom najavljamo njegovo epohalno delo Nibelunški prstan. Prvadela iz tetralogije – Rensko zlato in Valkiro – bo izvedlo Mariinskogledališče iz Sankt Peterburga pod dirigentskim vodstvom zdaj žeFestivalovega stalnega gosta dirigenta Valerija Gergijeva (2., 3. 9.).Preostala dva dela bosta na programu Ljubljana Festivala v naslednjemletu,« je dejal Darko Brlek, umetniški vodja in direktor festivala. ValerijGergijev bo letos dirigiral krat trikrat: sladokusce čaka še koncert zOrkestrom Mariinskega gledališča, na katerem bodo med drugimizvedli Wagnerjevo uverturo iz opere Tannhäuser (30. 7.).Spomin na Verdija bodo počastili Orkester Slovenske filharmonije,Slovenski komorni zbor, zbor SNG Maribor in solisti z izvedboRekviema (9. 7.). Solisti Accademie Teatro alla Scala pa bodo obspremljavi Simfoničnega orkestra RTV Slovenija zapeli izbor iznjegovih priznanih oper (11. 7.).Bogato dediščino Rusije bo predstavili tudi Zbor Mihail IvanovičGlinka iz Sankt Peterburga, ki bo z gostovanjem v Kostanjevici naKrki in Kranjski gori poskrbel za širjenje duha 61. Ljubljana Festivala tudizunaj meja prestolnice (25.-27. 7.). Nastopil bo znani ruski violončelistAleksander Rudin, medtem ko bo Akademski državni balet BorisaEifmana z baletom Bratje Karamazovi, pod katerega se je kotkoreograf podpisal znameniti Boris Eifman, 9. in 10. septembrazaključil poletni festival.

Foto: Anton Sazonov Karamazovs EifmanMed viške 61. Ljubljana Festivala vsekakor sodita dva večera z enimnajstarejših simfoničnih orkestrov na svetu Orkestrom GewandhausLeipzig, ki mu bo dirigiral Riccardo Chailly. Izvedel bo 9. SimfonijiMahlerja in Beethovna. Za nepozabne trenutke bodo poskrbeli še SNGMaribor z baletom Romeo in Julija (1. 7.), Béjart Ballet s štirimi baleti(4. 7.), Bernarda in Marcos Fink z večerom samospevov (3. 7.), kraljicaflamenka María Pagés (18. 7.) in mnogi drugi. Na pobudo županovLjubljane in Trsta bo orkester in zbor Fundacije Opere GiuseppeVerdi iz Trsta izvedel Rossinijevo Stabat Mater ter s tem poudarilprijateljstvo med mestoma. Njihov nastop je darilo Trsta Ljubljani.Poletni sproščenosti bo dodatnega zagona dal muzikal BriljantinaJima Jacobsa in Warrena Caseya, ki v produkciji Bronowski le za oderKrižank nastaja na londonskem West Endu.Program 61. Ljubljana Festivala hkrati stavi na tradicijo in preizkušenostter na svežino in novosti. V novo sezono vstopa z osveženo podobo, zakatero so poskrbeli na agenciji Luna\TBWA. Mladostne barve ter drzna(iz)postavitev Ljubljana Festivala in naše prestolnice kot središča doživetijv Evropi in svetu so odraz programa, ki na naše odre prinaša umetniškedobrote z vseh vetrov, ter želje, da bi pod odre poleg domače publikeprineslo tudi čim več tuje. »To ni nemogoča želja, Ljubljano vsako poletjeobišče vedno več tujcev, ki v svoj turistični program vključujejo tudikulturna doživetja,« je dejal Darko Brlek. »In tale naša želja sploh ni nova;že leta 1972 je dr. Fran Vatovec izjavil, da si želijo 'predahniti slovenskoprestolnico s poletnimi kulturnimi in umetniškimi prireditvami, ki najproslavijo njeno ime po evropskem kulturnem svetu'.«Več informacij o 61. Ljubljana Festivalu na www.ljubljanafestival.si.

Foto: Hana Kudryashova Karamazovs EifmanThe 61st Ljubljana Festival opens on 27 June in picturesque CongressSquare with a project that brings together different artists and artforms. The hugely popular and highly in-demand duo 2Cellos performin the same venue the very next day. Other outstanding artists who willput Ljubljana "at the heart of your experience" – as our new slogan hasit – until 10 September include the Béjart Ballet Lausanne, the LeipzigGewandhaus Orchestra with Maestro Riccardo Chailly, the MariinskyTheatre St Petersburg with Maestro Valery Gergiev, Russian choreographerBoris Eifman and his eponymous ballet company, extraordinaryperformers from London's West End and many others. The programme ofthe 61st Ljubljana Festival also pays tribute to the 200th anniversary ofthe birth of two musical giants – Richard Wagner and Giuseppe Verdi – andplaces the spotlight on Russian culture.

Foto: Victoria Hidalgo"At the centre of our programme this year are the anniversariesof two musical geniuses, as we celebrate the bicentennial of thebirths of Richard Wagner and Giuseppe Verdi, and the exceptionalartistic creativity of Russia," explains Darko Brlek, directorand artistic director of the Ljubljana Festival. "As far as the greatWagner is concerned, we are extremely proud to announce hisepoch-making opera cycle The Ring of the Nibelung. Thefirst two parts of the famous tetralogy – The Rhine Gold andThe Valkyrie – will be performed by the Mariinsky Theatre StPetersburg under the baton of the Festival's now regular guestconductor Valery Gergiev (2 and 3 September). The other twoparts will be presented within the Festival's programme nextyear." Valery Gergiev will appear no less than three times at thisyear's Festival: musical connoisseurs will also have the opportunityto enjoy a concert by the Orchestra of the MariinskyTheatre, with a programme including Wagner's overture toTannhäuser (30 July).The tribute to Verdi will be led by the Slovenian PhilharmonicOrchestra, the Slovenian Chamber Choir, the choir of theSlovene National Theatre Maribor and soloists, with a performanceof Verdi's Requiem (9 July). The soloists of the AccademiaTeatro alla Scala, accompanied by the RTV Slovenia SymphonyOrchestra, will sing a selection from the great composer'sfamous operas (11 July).Russia's rich heritage will be also presented by the MikhailIvanovich Glinka Choir from St Petersburg, who will spread thespirit of the 61st Ljubljana Festival beyond the borders of Slovenia'scapital with performances in Kostanjevica na Krki and KranjskaGora (25–27 July). Festival visitors will also be able to enjoy a performanceby the famous Russian cellist Alexander Rudin beforethe summer festival ends on 9 and 10 September with performancesof The Brothers Karamazov by the Boris Eifman Balletof St Petersburg, choreographed by the company's celebratedfounder Boris Eifman.Among the undoubted highlights of the 61st Ljubljana Festival arethe two evenings with one of the oldest symphony orchestras inthe world, the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra, conducted byMaestro Riccardo Chailly. The famous orchestra will performMahler's 9th Symphony and Beethoven's 9th Symphony. Othermemorable Festival moments will be conjured up by the SloveneNational Theatre Maribor with the ballet Romeo and Juliet (1July), the Béjart Ballet with four ballet pieces (4 July), Bernardaand Marcos Fink with an evening of solo songs (3 July), the queenof flamenco María Pagés (18 July) and many others.On the initiative of the mayors of Ljubljana and Trieste, the orchestraand choir of the Teatro Lirico Giuseppe Verdi di Triestewill perform Rossini's Stabat Mater and thus highlight thefriendship between the two cities. This performance is a gift fromTrieste to Ljubljana.Lazy summer evenings will be given an energy boost by the musical Grease, by JimJacobs and Warren Casey, in an exclusive production designed for the Križanke stageby Bronowski Productions of London's West End.The programme of the 61st Ljubljana Festival blends tradition and experience withfreshness and innovation. The Festival enters its new season with an updated image,courtesy of advertising agency Luna\TBWA. Youthful colours and the bold positioningof the Ljubljana Festival and our capital as the heart of experiences in Europeand the world are the reflection of a programme that brings to our stages artistictreats from far and wide, and of our wish to attract not only a domestic audience butalso as many foreign visitors as possible. "This is by no means an impossible dream,"explains Darko Brlek. "Every summer Ljubljana is visited by a growing number of foreignerswho want to include cultural experiences in their holiday programme. And infact this desire of ours is not new at all: as long ago as in 1972 the festival's foundingfather Fran Vatovec declared that the aim of the organisers was to fill the Sloveniancapital with summer cultural events that would carry its name throughout theEuropean cultural world."More information on the 61st Ljubljana Festival is available online atwww.ljubljanafestival.si

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURESobota, 15. junijaPoletnamuzejska noč2013Akcija slovenskih muzejev in galerijbo že enajsto leto potekala na tretjojunijsko soboto. Od 18. do 24. bodo vratana stežaj odprta za ogled razstav,udeležbo na delavnicah, koncertih …Poletna muzejska noč je največja promocijskaakcija slovenskih muzejev in galerij, pridružujejose ji tudi številni drugi zavodi in ustanove,ki izvajajo programe s področja kulturnedediščine in sodobne kulture ter umetnostiin zgodovine. Povezovalni projekt, prilagojenurbanemu območju, je bil že od začetkazasnovan tako, da predstavlja ustanove innjihove vsebine kot prostore sproščenegapreživljanja prostega časa. Ideja se je porodilaiz poznavanja podobnih dogodkov v tujini iniz želje, na privlačen način predstaviti javnostirazstavišča in jih približati ljudem.Saturday, 15 JuneMuseums on aSummer Night2013This promotion organised by Slovenianmuseums and galleries is now in itseleventh year. This year’s event will takeplace on the third Saturday in June.From 6 p.m. to midnight, museum doorswill be open, welcoming visitors to viewexhibitions, participate in workshops,attend concerts and more.Museums on a Summer Night is the largestpromotional event organised by Slovenianmuseums and galleries, which are also beingjoined by other institutions with programmescovering cultural heritage, modern culture, thearts and history. A linking project adapted to anurban environment, from the outset it has beenconceptualised as an opportunity to presentparticipating institutions and their contents asspaces of relaxed recreation. The idea was bornof an awareness of similar events organisedelsewhere in the world and a wish to presentexhibition spaces in an attractive way and bringthem closer to the public.Ljubljana, Križanke, Cankarjev dom, od 2. do 6. julija54. JAZZ FESTIVAL LJUBLJANANa oder Jazz festivala Ljubljana, ki velja s 54. izvedbo za jazzovski festivalz najdaljšo neprekinjeno tradicijo v Evropi, bodo od 2. do 6. julijastopili umetniki te glasbene zvrsti prav zares z vsega sveta. Med njimibodo velika, po vsem planetu sloveča imena, pa tudi nove vzhajajočezvezde ter seveda priznani in obetavni domači predstavniki.54. Jazz festival Ljubljana posveča tokrat osrednjo pozornost življenjskemu delu izjemneganemškega pihalca in vsestranskega umetnika Petra Brötzmanna. Njegovo vsestranskostbodo obiskovalci poleg štirih nastopov v različnih zasedbah oz. projektih spoznavali tudina dveh razstavah. V tivolski galeriji MGLC bodo na ogled Brötzmannove slike, grafikein druga umetniška dela ter dokumentarni filmi o njem (npr. Soldier of the Road in FilmPortrait), v Mali galeriji Cankarjevega doma pa pod naslovom To je naša muska fotografijerazličnih avtorjev, ki so ovekovečile glasbeno kariero Petra Brötzmanna.Za širok krog ljubiteljev jazza in glasbe nasploh je med letošnjimi festivalskimi gosti nemaranajbolj zveneče ime izvrstne ameriške pevke Macy Gray, dobitnice dveh grammyjev in dvehnagrad MTV z več kot 15 milijoni prodanih albumov. Festivalskemu občinstvu bo predstavilanajnovejši skupni projekt s saksofonistom Davidom Murrayem in njegovo zasedboInfinity Quartet. Z velikim zanimanjem pričakujemo tudi koncert japonske skladateljice inekstatične pianistke Hiromi; v spremljavi basa in bobnov bomo slišali njen The Trio Project.Festivalski koncerti in spremljevalni dogodki se bodo vrstili v Cankarjevem domu in Križankah,jazz pa bo preplavil tudi središče mesta, natančneje znamenito Ljubljansko tržnico.Ljubljana, Križanke, Cankarjev Dom, 2 to 6 JulyThe 54 th LJUBLJANA JAZZ FESTIVALNow in its 54th year, the Ljubljana Jazz Festival is the jazz festival withlongest continuous tradition in Europe, and this year will see jazz musiciansfrom all corners of the globe take the stage between 2 and 6 July. This year’sselection of performers includes both world-famous names and new, risingstars, as well ESTABLISHED AND EMERGING SLOVENE artists.This time around, the main focus of the Ljubljana Jazz Festival will be on the life work of Germansax and clarinet player and all-around artist Peter Brötzmann. Festivalgoers will not only have anopportunity to get to know his broad range of talent at four performances with different line-ups/projects, but two exhibitions featuring his artistic work will also be staged. Brötzmann’s paintings,prints and other works, as well as documentary films about the artist (Soldier of the Road, FilmPortrait and others) will be on display at the Museum of Modern Art in Tivoli Park, while CankarjevDom’s Small Gallery will host a photography exhibition entitled This is Our Music, which will featurethe work of photographers who have documented the musical career of Peter Brötzmann.Perhaps the name most recognised among a wider circle of jazz and general music lovers isMacy Gray; this extraordinarily talented American singer has won two Grammys and two MTVVideo Music Awards and sold over 15 million albums. At the Jazz Festival, she will be presentingher latest group project, which sees her working with saxophone player David Murray and hisband, Infinity Quartet. We are also eagerly looking forward to a concert by Japanese composerand ecstatic pianist Hiromi; we will have a chance to hear her accompanied by bass and drums,in performance with her group The Trio Project.The concerts and accompanying events will take place in Cankarjev Dom and Križanke; jazzwill also flood the town centre, with concerts in the beautiful Ljubljana Market.www.ljubljanajazz.si22

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREFoto: Macy DavidLjubljana, 12. avgust 2013,Center Urbane Kulture Kino Šiška/ Kino Šiška Centre for Urban CultureTAME IMPALAV avgustu bo Šiško zajel vročinski val iz Avstralije!Prvič prihajajo v to regijo mladci iz Pertha, ki so potegnilivez med Beatli, Zeppelini, stoner psihedelijo in indieeksplozijo ter rocku sedanjosti vdihnili nov smisel!Back to the future!Skupina Tame Impala, ne glede na to, ali poslušate njen album aligreste na koncert, zagotovi izkušnjo, polno preproste lepote inbrezmejne ustvarjalnosti, ob kateri se vam povsem odpelje.Na zvok benda Tame Impala so do enake mere vplivali tako TheBeatles kot beatniška poezija, tako turška progresivna glasba kotturški med, tako angleška ljudska glasba kot ljudje z ulice.A heatwave from Australia hits Šiska in August! It’sthe first visit to the region by THESE youngsters fromPerth who DRAW ON the sounds of the Beatles, LedZeppelin, stoner psychedelia and the indie boom and AREBREATHING a new sense of purpose into present-day rock!Back to the future!Whether you listen to their albums or go to their concerts, TameImpala deliver an experience full of simple beauty and unlimitedcreativity that is guaranteed to blow you away.Foto: Macy DavidThe Tame Impala sound is equally informed by the Beatles andBeat poetry, by Turkish prog and Turkish delight, by English folk andhomeless folk.23

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREMaribor, od 25. do 29. junijaMednarodni folklornifestival FOLKARTNajvečji slovenski folklorni festival, mariborski Folkart, je že polnih 24 let zaporedprizorišče prikazovanja folklorne umetnosti sveta. Skupine, ki prihajajo z vseh celin,pričarajo obiskovalcem v času mednarodnega Festivala Lent, katerega predhodnik jeravno Folkart, košček svoje barvite zgodovine. Iz večine držav sveta preko oddaljenePolinezije, Mehike, Peruja, Brazilije in eksotičnih Filipinov so nam folklorne skupineprinesle v naše mesto in ostale slovenske kraje pravo dragocenost – svojo kulturnodediščino, ljubezen do svojih korenin in ponosno držo ambasadorjev kulture.Maribor, 25 to 29 JuneFOLKART InternationalFolklore FestivalThe largest Slovenian folklore festival, the Folkart festival in Maribor has been providinga stage for the world’s folklore arts for 24 years. Groups come from all continents anddelight visitors during the International Lent Festival; Folkart is actually the predecessorof Lent, and a piece of its rich, colourful history. Hailing from most countries of theworld – including Polynesia, Mexico, Peru, Brazil and the exotic Philippines – the folkloregroups have brought something truly invaluable to our city and Slovenia: their culturalheritage, their love for their roots and the proud stance of cultural ambassadors.www.festival-lent.siGrad Bistra pri Vrhniki, Tehniški muzej Slovenije, do 3. decembra 2013S TEHNIKO DO ZDRAVJAPrispevek slovenskih znanstvenikov k razvoju medicineZ razstavo želijo javnosti na poljuden način približati dosežke slovenskih znanstvenikov,ki so bili dolga leta na področjih biomedicinske tehnike med vodilnimi vsvetu. Z zanimivimi zgodbami in edinstvenimi aparaturami, kot so umetna pljuča,elektronski mikroskop, naprava za zunajtelesni krvni obtok, so na razstavi predstavljeninajvidnejši znanstveniki in njihovi dosežki, uporabnost le-teh v medicini terpomen posameznega dosežka v svetovnem merilu.Bistra Castle at Vrhnika, Technical Museum of Slovenia, until 3 December 2013HEALTH THROUGH TECHNOLOGYThe Contribution of Slovenian Science to the Development of MedicineThis exhibition aims to present present open up, in an accessible way, the accomplishmentsof Slovene scientists who for a number of years were at the forefront of biomedicalengineering. Through interesting stories and unique a pparatus such as the artificial lung,the electron microscope and a device for extracorporeal circulation, the exhibition presentsSlovenia’s most noteworthy scientists and their accomplishments – including their applicationin medicine – and the importance of the individual achievements on a global scale.Foto: Iko Krasevecwww.tms.si24

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREPIRAN, from 12 July to 16 AugustA chamber musicfestival, concertsunder the stars – nowin its 35 th yearPIRAN, od 12. julija do 16. avgustaFestival komorne glasbe,koncerti pod zvezdami –že 35 letpraznovanje 35. obletnice Piranskih glasbenih večerov bo 13. julijaodprl Obalni komorni orkester, ki je v svojem tridesetletnem delovanjusodeloval na festivalu kar 24-krat. Ta izjemno priljubljeni primorskiorkester letos obeležuje 30. leto delovanja in ob tej priložnosti sebo predstavil z vsemi dirigenti, ki so v orkestru vihteli paličico od leta1983 do danes: z Borutom Logarjem, Markom Vatovcem, AleksandromSpasićem in Patrikom Greblom. Kot solisti se jim bodo pridružili: SidonijaLebar – violina, Maja Kojc – oboa, in vokalni solistki.19. julija bo nastopil Antal Szalai, čudežni deček, ki je z Mozartovim violinskimkoncertom v A-duru pri neverjetnih 11 letih debitiral s svetovno znanimKomornim orkestrom Franza Liszta. Danes je Szalai eden najboljših madžarskihviolinistov z ugledno mednarodno kariero. Z madžarskim pianistom JozsefomBalogom pripravljata izjemno virtuozen in prav poseben program opernih parafrazza violino in klavir.26. julija bo gostil Piran Lovra Pogorelića, enega najbolj nadarjenih hrvaškihpianistov, ki v zadnjih letih močno udejanja svoje solistične potenciale. Pogorelićrazvija uspeh predvsem v Franciji, kjer je izdal zgoščenko z deli Rahmaninova inMusorgskega, pri nas pa se je predstavil z recitalom v okviru srebrnega abonmajaCankarjevega doma. Osvojil je pomembne svetovne koncertne dvorane, od Tokiado New Yorka in evropskih glasbenih središč. Njegova igra je ponotranjena, nikoliobrnjena navzven in nikoli naravnana zgolj na zunanji blišč.Programsko jedro festivala sestavlja tudi ena plemenitejših komornih zasedb. 2. avgustase bo publiki Piranskih glasbenih večerov predstavil godalni kvartet Martinů,ki poustvarja že 26 let in je eden najboljših tovrstnih sestavov na Češkem. Koncertirajopo vsem svetu, med drugim so prejeli nagrade v Portsmouthu (GB), ARD(München), Evian (Francija) in na Praški pomladi. Kvartet poleg ostalega repertoarjaskrbno neguje komorno glasbo češkega skladatelja Bohuslava Martinůja.9. avgusta bodo v Strunjanu nastopili izbrani mladi virtuozi. Sklepni koncert festivalabo 16. avgusta; z deli Čajkovskega, Schuberta in Šostakoviča se bo predstavilBrahms trio iz Rusije.The 35th anniversary of the Musical Evenings ofPiran will commence on 13 July with a concert fromthe Obalni Komorni Orkester, which, in its 30-yearexistence, has performed at the festival 24 times.This exceptionally popular orchestra from thePrimorska region is celebrating its 30th anniversary,and on this occasion, it will feature all theconductors who have wielded their batons at thehead of the orchestra since 1983: Borut Logar, MarkoVatovec, Aleksander Spasić and Patrik Greblo. Theywill be joined by soloists Sidonija Lebar (violin) andMaja Kojc (oboe) and solo vocalists.Antal Szalai will perform on 19 July; this wunderkind made hisdebut at the age of 11, performing Mozart’s Violin Concerto in AMajor with the world-famous Franz Liszt Orchestra. Today, Szalaiis one of Hungary’s finest violinists and has a distinguished internationalcareer. Together with Hungarian pianist József Balogh,he is preparing a very special virtuoso programme featuringoperatic paraphrases for violin and piano.On 26 July, Piran will host Lovro Pogorelić, one of the most mosttalented Croatian pianists, who in recent years has really begunto fulfil his potential as a soloist. Pogorelić has been developinghis success primarily in France, where he has released acompact disc featuring the works of Rachmaninoff and Mussorgsky;Slovenia had a chance to hear him perform when hegave a recital as part of the Silver Season at Cankarjev Dom.He has won over major concert venues throughout the world,from Tokyo and New York to Europe’s music centres. His playingis internalised; it is never turned outward and never aims tocreate just a flashy exterior.The heart of the festival programme will consist of a performanceby one of the most renowned chamber ensembles.On 2 August, the Martinů Quartet will perform at the MusicalEvenings of Piran. The group has been creating music for 26 yearsand is one of the finest ensembles of its kind in the Czech Republic.They have given concerts throughout the world and havereceived awards in Portsmouth (England) and Evian (France), atthe Prague Spring International Music Festival and elsewhere. Inaddition to their standard repertoire, the quartet painstakinglyworks to preserve and promote the chamber music of Czechcomposer Bohuslav Martinů.On 9 August, a selection of young virtuosos will perform in Strunjan.The Festival’s closing concert will take place on 16 August,and will feature the Brahms Trio of Russia performing the worksof Schubert and Shostakovich.25

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREDunajOd 8. maja do 1. oktobra 2013Dunajska muzejska četrt MuseumsQuartierspada med desetnajvečjih kulturnih kompleksovna svetu. Četrt velikih muzejev,manjših kulturnih pobudin modnih restavracij je pravazgodba o uspehu. Za obiskovalceso poleg trenutnih razstavna voljo tudi posebni ogledi indelavnice.Glavno dvorišče muzejske četrtibo vse do začetka oktobra vabiloobiskovalce z baliniščem, prijetnimivrtovi, družabnimi koncitedna ob glasbi didžejev tersodobnim poletnim pohištvomEnzis & Enzos za sproščen obisk.Letošnja novost je vodni svetAquadrome, kjer bodo v bazenuorganizirane dirke s čolni.Poleti bodo v ospredju prav dvoriščain prehodi muzejske četrti.Dva prehoda bosta postala novamikro muzeja ter bosta posvečenatemam »performansa«(izvaja Tanzquartier) in »čitalnice«.Od 11. maja do 16. junija bov okviru dunajskega festivalapotekal tečaj na temo »Unrestof Form« (»Nemir oblike«), kjerbodo muzejska četrt, razstaviščeSecession in Akademija za likovnoumetnost ob določenih datumihprirejali umetniške intervencije,koncerte in performanse.Literarni festival O-Töne organizirajulija in avgusta prvovrstnabranja na prostem. Ljubiteljifilma se lahko veselijo posebnihfilmskih večerov in digitalnekulture od 12. julija na filmskemfestivalu frame[o]ut. Poleg tegabodo dogajanje popestrili tudištevilne predstave in izvrstnopoulično gledališče.www.wien.infoFrankfurt, od 26. junija do 5. julija 2013OpernplatzfestNa čudovitem pročelju frankfurtskestare operne hiše je zapisano»Dem Wahren Schönen Guten«– »Za vse pristno, lepo, dobro« inkulinarični festival na trgu predfrankfurtsko operno hišo, takoimenovani Opernplatzfest, jevsekakor v čast tem besedam.Prirejajo ga v počastitev eneganajlepših trgov v Frankfurtu, ki obtej priložnosti završi od urbanekulture in pristnega življenja. Vsklopu tega kulturnega festivalapotekajo odrske in pouličnepredstave ter klavirski recitalisredi bogate ponudbe gurmanskihkuhinj najvišje kakovosti.www.opernplatzfest.deKoebenhavenPetkov rock vTivolijuOd 12. aprila do 20. septembra 2013V najbolj obiskanem skandinavskemzabaviščnem parku,Tivoliju, bodo vsak petek odaprila do septembra potekalikoncerti različnih danskih inmednarodnih izvajalcev.Gre za že tradicionalnekoncerte, ki vsako leto privabijovsaj pol milijona obiskovalcev.Izvajalci pa ne igrajo samorocka, ampak tudi pop in R&B.Na odprtem odru Plænen bodomed drugim nastopili Nabiha sShaka Loveless, Thirty SecondsTo Mars, Editors, Outlandish inNik & Jay. Za obisk je potrebnavstopnica za Tivoli.Petkovi koncerti pa niso edinirazlog za obisk drugega najstarejšegazabaviščnega parka nasvetu, ki je odprl svoja vrata 15.avgusta 1843. Romantike privabljaveč kot 111.000 po merioblikovanih luči, ki osvetljujejopark ponoči, in več kot 400.000rož, med katerimi prevladujejotulipani. Tisti bolj razigrani pa senavdušujejo nad 99 let starimlesenim vlakom smrti in drugimiatrakcijami.www.tivoli.dk/fredagsrockViennaRrom 8 May to 1 October 2013Vienna's MuseumsQuartier (MQ)is one of the ten biggest culturalareas in the world. The mix oflarge museums, small culturalinitiatives and trendy restaurantsis a success story.Until the beginning of October,the main courtyard of the MuseumsQuartierattracts visitorswith a boules area, cosy guestgardens, cool weekend soundsby DJs as well as Enzis andEnzos – stylish summer furnitureto relax on. New this year is theAquadrome, where boat racesare organised in the pool.The courtyards and passagewaysof the MuseumsQuartierare particularly in focus duringSummer in the MQ this year. Twopassageways will be convertedinto new micro-museums, whichdedicate themselves to the topicsof "Performance" (performed bythe Tanzquartier) and "Readingroom". From 11 May to 16 June, aspart of the Vienna Festival, thereis an exhibition parcours on thetheme "Unrest of Form", whereMuseumsQuartier, Secession andAcademy of Fine Arts bustle oncertain dates with artistic interventions,concerts and performances.The O-Töne Literature Festivalorganizes first-class open-airreadings again in July andAugust. Film fans can lookforward to special film nights anddigital culture from 12 July at theframe[o]ut Film Festival. In addition,numerous events will takeplace with performances andfirst-class street theatre.www.wien.infoFrankfurt, from 26 June to 5 July 2013OpernplatzfestThe inscription on the magnificentfacade of Frankfurt´s OldOpera House reads "Dem WahrenSchönen Guten" – "To the true,the beautiful, the good", and theOpernplatzfest – a culinary festivalin Frankfurt´s Opera Square– certainly holds true to this principle.It pays homage to what isone of the most beautiful squaresin Frankfurt, filling the city spacewith urbanity and pure vitality.This is a cultural festival comprisingstage productions, street theatreand piano recitals amidst arange of gourmet cuisine of thehighest quality.www.opernplatzfest.deCopenhagenFriday Rock inTivoliFrom 12 April 2013 to 20September 2013Every Friday between April andSeptember, the most visitedScandinavian amusement parkTivoli will host concerts by variousDanish and internationalperformers.These concerts have becometraditional, attracting at least ahalf a million visitors every year.The performers not only playrock, but pop and R&B as well.The open-air Plænen stage willfeature performances by NabihasShaka Loveless, Thirty Secondsto Mars, Editors, Outlandish andNik & Jay, among others. In orderto see it, you need a Tivoli ticket.But the Friday concerts are notthe only reason to visit the secondoldest amusement park in theworld, which opened its doorson 15 August 1843. The romanticsare attracted by more than111,000 custom-made lightsilluminating the park at nightand more than 400,000 flowers,mainly tulips. And the moreadventurous are drawn by the99-year-old wooden rollercoasterand other attractions.www.tivoli.dk/fredagsrock26

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ADRIJIN POTNIKadrijinPOTNikBESEDILO: marjan žiberna Fotografije: IGOR LAPAJNEMiki Muster,legenda stripa in animiranega filmaStripovske zgodbe o lisjaku Zvitorepcu, volku Lakotniku in želvaku Trdonji je začel Miki Muster, ki bo jeseni dopolnil 88let, risati pred 60 leti; danes jih berejo vnuki njegovih prvih občudovalcev. Stripi, ki jih je narisal do leta 1973, ko je kotsvobodnjak za 17 let odšel k Bavaria filmu v München, so kasneje izšli zbrani v knjigah. Do zdaj se jih je nabralo več kot20. Srednja in starejša generacija se tudi dobro spomni animiranih reklamnih spotov za televizijo – prsate primadone,ki poje visoki C, zajčkov v CIK-CAK-u, reklame za okna in vrata Jelovica, za Viki kremo … Tudi te so njegovo delo. V Nemčijije po zamislih Guillerma Mordilla, francosko-argentinskega karikaturista in humorista, ustvaril serijo kratkih risanihfilmov, ki so jih odkupile televizijske hiše v 30 državah. Napravil je še marsikaj drugega, tudi pel v orkestru, osvajalmedalje na največjih veteranskih tekmovanjih v plavanju ... A izjemen talent za vse, česar se je lotil in ustvaril, ne bizadostoval. Miki Muster je bil vse življenju tudi neutruden garač.Diplomirali ste iz kiparstva, a se z njim niste ukvarjali.Kaj vas je zaneslo v strip?Po vojni sem se vpisal na akademijo, kjer je bil prvi letnikskupen za slikarje in kiparje. Vendar si nikoli nisem želelrisati stavb, ampak figure, ljudi. Vedno, kar pomnim, sem risalkarikature: sošolce, profesorje … Nikoli me ni zanimalorisanje z ravnilom in ravne črte. Ko so profesorji ugotovili,da imam več smisla za obliko kot za barvo, so me usmeriliv kiparstvo. Napravil pa sem le nekaj kipov svoje tedanjepunce, ki je pozneje postala moja žena. Leta 1952, ko semkončal akademijo, sem se kot ilustrator in novinar zaposlilpri časopisu Slovenski poročevalec. Stripe pa sem risalže na akademiji, ampak ni bilo nič objavljeno, saj je bil vSloveniji strip takrat tabu. To je bilo proameriško, to je biloprepovedano … Potem pa se je takratni urednik Poletaodločil, da bo izdal tednik, v katerem bodo samo slovenskistripi. Povabili so me, naj za zadnjo stran narišem otroškistrip. Ponudbo sem zagrabil z obema rokama, potem je pašlo. Kolegi z akademije in profesorji so me spraševali, zakajsem hodil na akademijo, če delam kič in stvari, ki nimajoz umetnostjo nobene zveze … V tistih časih tudi filmaniso priznali za umetnost. Potem pa so priznali film zaumetnost in na koncu tudi strip.Ko ste risali Zvitorepca, ste imeli različne težave,menda tudi z Rusi.Ja, po enem letu izhajanja so ga prepovedali. To so imeleoblasti za amerikanizem, rekli so, da strip otroke odvajaod branja, saj gledajo le slikice … A so bralci moje junaketako posvojili, da so ga zahtevali nazaj, in po enem letuso ga res začeli spet objavljati. Kasneje, v 60-ih letih, koje strip dobil čisto drugačno mesto, so me celo vabilina šole, da sem podeljeval bralne značke. Učiteljice sopovedale, da se ob branju stripov otroci lažje in hitrejenaučijo brati. No, Zvitorepca in ostale sem potem, ko semga lahko spet risal, začel pošiljati v Afriko, na Divji zahod,v vesolje … Ko so šli v vesolje, sem Ruse narisal kotmedvede – široko prepoznaven simbol Rusov je bil takratmedved – in so protestirali. Ampak stvar sem rešil tako,da sem kasneje narisal Američane kot opice, pa je bilovse v redu. Medvedi so boljši kot opice …Kako pa ste začeli ustvarjati animirane filme?Že kot otrok sem sanjaril, da bi tudi jaz ustvarjal risane filme.Spominjam se, da sem imel kakšnih sedem let, ko smošli z Dolenjske, kjer smo takrat živeli, v Ljubljano v kino.Predfilm je bila risanka – nekakšni hudički so kurili ogenj inskakali okoli njega. To mi je ostalo v večnem spominu.V tem času je bil v Sloveniji poznan le Disney. Mislim, daje bilo leta 1938, ko so v Ljubljani vrteli celovečerni filmSneguljčica in sedem škratov. Bil sem zastrupljen. Vsakkošček papirja, vsi robovi zvezkov so bili porisani s škrati.Sanjal sem, da bom nekoč odšel v Ameriko, k Disneyu,kjer bom lahko delal animirane filme, a po vojni, v časuželezne zavese, si tega nisem upal niti na glas povedati.Nekoč sem bil s folkloristi v Trstu in bi lahko pobegnil, asem se zaradi punce vrnil domov. Že na akademiji sem sezačel učiti, kako napraviti animirani film. V Evropi ni bilotakrat ne literature ne studia. Vedel sem samo to, kar jebilo tu in tam objavljeno v časopisu: da moraš, recimo,narisati toliko in toliko slik, da se potem zadeva premika,pa sem leta in leta eksperimentiral. Ni bilo folij, ničesar nibilo. Učil sem se več kot deset let. Potem sem naredil risanifilmček za televizijo, 30-sekundno reklamo za ženske29

ADRIJIN POTNIKnogavice. Ko sem ga pokazal, so ga takoj kupili in začeli vrteti. Prvih nekajlet po nastanku televizije pri nas ni bilo govora o risanem filmu kot reklami.Reklamni filmi so bili samo reportaže iz tovarn, pogovori z direktorji.Potem pa sem začel dobivati naročila celo iz Hrvaške in Srbije. Včasih some naročniki samo poklicali, povedali, kaj bi radi, in mi vse prepustili –lastno reklamo so tudi oni prvič videli šele, ko so jo zavrteli na televiziji.Kako to, da ste leta 1973 odšli v Nemčijo?Vedno sem si želel ustvarjati risane filme za otroke, tu, v Sloveniji, pa semvedno delal samo reklamne filme. Anonimno, nihče sploh ni vedel, čigavi so. Šel sem na Viba film in predlagal, da bi delal risane filme, pa ni bilo iztega na koncu nič. Ni jih zares zanimalo. Takrat je Jugoslavija tudi uvedlaprogresivni davek na dohodke, in ker sem bil priden, bi lahko marca karnehal, saj bi mi vse, kar bi še zaslužil, pobrali. Zato sem šel najprej malopovprašat na Dunaj, potem pa še v München. V Bavaria filmu sta bila žedva Hrvata, ki sta vedela, kaj in kako delam. Ko sem dobil dovoljenje zabivanje, sem napravil štiriminutni filmček pa potem še enega in še enega.Potem pa so mi dali pol serije, ki je imela 26 delov. A sem je napravilveč kot polovico. Njihove tri ekipe s po nekaj ljudmi, ki so delale drugopolovico, so z delom zaostajale …Menda ste bili tako hitri, da so vas Nemci spraševali, ali imatedoma, kjer ste risali, sužnje, ki delajo namesto vas …Res niso mogli verjeti. Od doma sem bil navajen veliko delati, po 200 sličicna dan. To je bilo strašno naporno … Ampak v Nemčiji nisem imel nič z organizacijo– pri nas sem ogromno časa izgubil v dogovorih s podjetji, z nabavomateriala, sinhronizacijo, pisanjem tekstov in še z vsem drugim, zatosem moral risati ponoči. Tam pa sem lahko samo risal. Ko sem imel projekt,sem začel ob sedmih zjutraj in delal do polnoči, enih, dokler mi ni padelsvinčnik iz rok. Nisem si privoščil »čik« pavze ne kosila, jedel in pil sem, karsem imel pri roki, si na hitro kaj spekel v kuhinjici, se malo pretegnil …Vedno sem imel film v celoti v glavi,še preden sem se ga spravil risati.Šel sem na sprehod, si vzel čas, dasem si naredil zgodbo, in ko semzačel delati, sem samo izboljšal kakdetajl. Zato sem risal direktnona folijo, ne najprej na papir,kar je zahtevalo čas in sevedapodaljševalo čas izdelave …Sem pa v tem času, ko sem bil v Nemčiji, delal še vedno reklame za nekateraslovenska podjetja. Nisem hotel povsem pretrgati stika.Kako pa je prišlo do sodelovanja z Mordillom?Mordillo je risal kratke, enostranske stripovske zgodbice in je iskal nekoga,ki bi te zgodbice – bilo jih je kakšnih 300 – spremenil v animacije.Prišel je vprašat tudi na Bavario in bil sem edini, ki je po Mordillovemmnenju zadel njegov stil. Naredil sem 20-sekundni filmček in dobil odnjega ekskluzivno pravico. Tako je začela nastajati serija Mordillo, z leti seje nabralo več kot 400 filmčkov.Za klovne, ki zabavajo druge, pravijo, da so v svoji notranjosti resni,celo žalostni ljudje. Vaše risanke in stripi so brez izjeme duhoviti,kako pa ste se počutili vi, ko ste jih delali?Kot sem rekel, bilo je naporno, ampak ne bi mogel delati po 15, 16 ur na danstvari, ki mi ne bile všeč. Po naravi sem vase zaprt človek, in ko sem bil vNemčiji, sem bil najbolj srečen, da sem delal sam doma. Samo prvi film semnapravil v studiu in šlo mi je na živce, da je ves čas kdo hodil gledat, kakogre, in debatirat, imeli smo ne vem kakšne vse pavze … Zato sem vzel stvaridomov, sedel in delal, dokler ni bilo končano … Ampak sam pri sebi semse včasih, ko sem risal, tako smejal, da sploh nisem mogel biti utrujen. Nikolinisem smatral, da zares delam, to je bil zame vedno hobi, užitek.30

ADRIA PASSENGERADRIJIN POTNIKTEXT: marjan žiberna Photographs: IGOR LAPAJNEMiki Muster,a legend of comicsand animated filmsMiki Muster, who turns 88 this autumn, begandrawing the tales of Zvitorepec the fox, Lakotnikthe wolf and Trdonja the turtle 60 years ago;today his stories are read by the grandchildrenof his original fans. The comic strips, which hedrew until 1973, when he began his 17-year stint asa freelancer at Bavaria Film in Munich, were laterpublished as collected works in book form. Todate over 20 books have been published. Those of acertain age will also remember the animated televisionadvertisements – the busty prima donnabelting out a high C (for vitamin C sweets), theCik-Cak bunnies, advertisements for Jelovica windows,for Viki hazelnut and chocolate spread…all those were his too. In Germany he created aseries of short animated films based on the ideasof Guillermo Mordillo, a French-Argentine caricaturistand humorist, which were purchased bybroadcasters in 30 countries. He has done plentyof other things too, including singing withan orchestra and winning medals in veterans’swimming competitions… Talent alone, however,would not have been enough for all that he hasaccomplished. Miki Muster has also been a tirelesshard worker all his life.You received your degree in sculpture, but did notpursue that field. What led you to comics?After the war I enrolled at the academy, where the first-yearcourse was the same for painters and sculptors. Yet I neverwanted do draw buildings; I wanted to draw figures, people.For as long as I can remember I’ve been drawing caricatures.I drew my schoolmates, my teachers. Drawing with a rulerand straight lines never interested me. When my professorsat the academy noticed that I had more of a knack for formthan for colour, they steered me towards sculpture. I onlymade a handful of sculptures – of my then girlfriend, wholater became my wife. In 1952, when I graduated from theacademy, I found work as an illustrator and reporter at thenewspaper Slovenski poročevalec. I was already drawingcomic strips at the academy, but nothing was publishedbecause at the time comics were taboo in Slovenia. It waspro-American, it was banned… Then the editor at themagazine Polet decided to publish a weekly that wouldfeature only Slovenian comic strips. They invited me to do achildren’s comic strip for the last page. I seized the opportunitywith both hands, and then things started to move.Colleagues from the academy and professors would ask mewhy I had attended the academy, seeing as I was makingkitsch and things that had nothing to do with art... In thosedays even film had yet to be recognised as art. Then film wasrecognised, and finally comics as well.When you were drawing Zvitorepec you ran into variousproblems, even with the Russians apparently.Yes, one year after it began being published they banned it.The authorities viewed it as Americanism, they said that acomic strip for children is a distraction from reading becauseall they’re doing is looking at pictures... But the readers hadadopted my heroes as their own and demanded its return,and after a year they began publishing it again. Later, in the1960s, when comic strips took on a completely different status,they would even invite me to schools to present readingbadges. The teachers would tell me that comics helped childrenlearn to read more easily and more quickly. So then, onceI was able to draw my strip again, I began sending Zvitorepecand the rest of the gang off to Africa, to the Wild West, to outerspace... When they went to outer space, I drew the Russians asbears – the bear was a widely recognised symbol of Russiansat the time – and they protested. But I resolved the matter bylater drawing the Americans as monkeys, and then everythingwas all right. Bears are better than monkeys…How did you begin creating animated films?Even as a child I dreamed of one day creating animated films.Once, when I was about seven years old, we drove to Ljubljanafrom Dolenjska, where we lived at the time, to go to the cinema.The programme began with a cartoon – these31

ADRIA PASSENGER32

ADRIA PASSENGERlittle devils were starting a fire and prancing around it. Thathas forever remained in my memory. In those days, we onlyknew of Disney in Slovenia. It think it was in 1938 that the firstfeature length film, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, wasshown in Ljubljana. I was poisoned! Every piece of paper, themargins of all my exercise books were covered with drawingsof dwarfs. I dreamed that I would one day go to America, toDisney, where I would be able to make animated movies, butafter the war, in the days of the Iron Curtain, I didn’t dare say itout loud. One time I was with some folklorists in Trieste, and Icould have escaped, but I went home because of my girlfriend.It was in my academy days that I began to learn how to makean animated film. There was no literature or courses on thesubject in Europe at the time. I only knew what was reportedhere and there in the newspapers, that, for example, youhave to draw this many pictures to make the image move,and I experimented for years and years. We didn’t have cels,we didn’t have anything. I spent over 10 years learning. Then Imade my first animated short for television, a 30-second commercialfor women’s stockings. When I showed it, they boughtit right away and began showing it. In the first few years afterthe appearance of television in Slovenia, no one consideredusing animated films for advertisements. Advertising filmswere limited to reports from factories, interviews with directors.Then I even began getting orders from Croatia and fromSerbia. Sometimes the clients would call me and tell me whatthey wanted and leave it all to me – even they would only seetheir own advertisement when it aired on television.How did it happen that you left for Germany in 1973?I had always wanted to make animated films for children,but here, in Slovenia, all I was doing was making commercials.Anonymously: nobody even knew who wasmaking them. I went to Viba Film and suggested they makeanimated films, but nothing came of that. They weren’treally interested. At that time Yugoslavia also introduced aprogressive income tax, and because I had been working alot, I could have simply quit in March, as they would havetaken anything I earned. That’s why I first went to Viennato make enquiries, and then also to Munich. Two Croatswere already working at Bavaria Film; they knew what Iwas doing and how I worked. Once I obtained a residencepermit, I made a four-minute film, and then another, andthen another. Then they gave me half of a series that had26 episodes. But I did more than half. Their three teams witha few people each, who were making the other half, werebehind with their work…Apparently you were so fast that the Germans askedyou if you had slaves at home doing the work for you...They really couldn’t believe it. I was used to working a greatdeal at home, around 200 frames a day. It was terriblyexhausting... But in Germany I didn’t have a hand in theorganisational side – in Slovenia, I wasted an enormousamount of time negotiating with companies, procuringmaterials, dubbing, writing scripts and everything else, that’swhy I had to draw at night. There I was able to do nothing butdraw. When I had a project, I’d start at seven in the morningand work until midnight, until one, until the pencil fell frommy hands. I never took a smoke break, never went to lunch, Iate and drank whatever I had at hand, I’d cook up somethingquick in the kitchen, stretch a bit…I would always havethe film in its entirety inmy head before I begandrawing. I’d go for awalk, take my time to makethe story, and when Istarted work, all I did wasimprove a detail here andthere. That’s why I drewdirectly on the cels,rather than on paper,which took time and ofcourse lengthened theproduction process …And at that time, when I was in Germany, I was still makingcommercials for some companies in Slovenia. I didn’t wantto cut ties entirely.How did your collaboration with Mordillo comeabout?Mordillo was drawing short, one-page comic stories and waslooking for someone to turn these stories – there were around300 of them – into animation. Bavaria was one of the placeswhere he enquired and I was the only one who, in Mordillo’sopinion, suited his style. I made a 20-second film and obtainedthe exclusive rights from him. That’s how the series Mordillobegan to take shape. Over the years it grew to over 400 films.It is said of clowns – people who entertain others –that they are serious, even sad people on the inside.Without exception, your cartoons and comics arewitty; how did you feel when you made them?Like I said, it was exhausting, but I wouldn’t have been able todo something that I didn’t like for 15, 16 hours a day. Personally,I’m an introvert, and when I was in Germany, I was mosthappy about working by myself at home. I only made my firstfilm in the studio, and it got on my nerves how somebody wasalways stopping in to see how it was going and to discusssomething or other. We had breaks for, I don’t know, anythingyou could imagine... That’s why I took my things home, satdown and worked until it was finished... But sometimes, as Iwas drawing, I would laugh so hard to myself that I simplywasn’t able to be tired. I never looked at it as work; for me itwas always a hobby, a joy.33

034SablonAdria Airways leti vBruselj vsak dan.čokoladni užitki brusljabesedilo: Damijan Jagodic fotografije: Damijan Jagodic, profimediaTa zapis ima za seboj desetletja izkušenj. Toliko časa že jem čokoladoin tudi Bruselj pogosto obiskujem. Zaradi zapovedanih znamenitostinisem Bruslja še nikomur priporočil. Hrana pa je poglavje zase. Turistomponujajo belgijsko pivo, odlične - a drage - školjke klapavice z omako inpomfrijem, vonj po vafljih pa je veliko bolj mamljiv kot njihov okus.

useljV lokalu z najlepšim razgledom na Sablon ponujajoslaščice, ki so dražje, če jih postrežejo za mizo, in vročočokolado – grenko in redko; zraven sem jedel čokoladnebombone, da sem jo lahko popil. Spomnil sem se, daso grenko čokolado pili Azteki, z vročo čokolado pa soizboljšali moč, zbranost in budnost svojih vojakov. Tisti, kidanes strežejo sladice ali čokolado, bi morali biti še posebejurejeni in prijazni, saj prodajajo umetniške izdelke inne gumijastih cevi za zalivanje vrtov. Tega se v slaščičarnipremalo zavedajo. A najprej o Sablonu.Majhen trg čokoladnih odkritij, galerij, starinarnic,vsega lepega …Mestno jedro se da prehoditi. S skirojem si ne morem pomagati,saj so tla iz granitnih kock. Najlepša pot proti Sablonuvodi mimo kraljeve palače proti kraljevemu trgu, na kateremjezdi Godfrej Bouillonski – flandrijski plemič, vodja križarskihpohodov in jeruzalemski kralj. Za njim stoji čudovita cerkevsv. Jakoba, pred njim pa se, vsaj zame, razprostira najlepšipogled na Bruselj. René Magritte, slavni slikar, ima tu muzejin takih je v okolici polno. Od tu je Sablon zelo blizu: na polpoti v smeri pravosodne palače. Sablon je majhen, prestižendel mesta. Ime sega v čas, ko je bil še zunaj mestnega zidu,kamor so prebivalci hodili po peščeni poti. To rumenkastoplast zemlje – peščeno glino – so v francoščini imenovali»sablon«. Nekdaj je bila tu tržnica za konje, zelenjavo inmlečne izdelke, od leta 1960 pa je osrednji prostor namenjenstarinam. Prostor zaznamuje cerkev iz 15. stoletja, v katerinajdem podobice z molitvijo v slovenskem jeziku s priprošnjok avstrijskemu cesarju in ogrskemu kralju Karlu. Zunajcerkve je majhen park, v katerem so upodobljeni junaki, ki sose borili proti španski tiraniji, ter intelektualci in znanstvenikiiz 16. stoletja. Park je obkrožen z 48‐imi miniaturnimi kipi, kipredstavljajo srednjeveške cehe v Bruslju.Košček čokolade pustite na jeziku 15 sekund, najboljšena svetu pa niNa Sablonu so na vsakem koraku čokoladnice, ki so velikaskušnjava zame, saj že dolgo poslušam, da se bom zastrupils »cukrom«.»V Bruslju je lep samo Sablon,« mi je dejala prijateljica, kitam živi. Ve, da imam rad čokolado, ki je v Belgiji blagovnaznamka, na Sablonu pa je te butične ponudbe največ.Izložbena okna so polna čokolade, ki je preplavila Evropo,zato ji lahko priznamo pomembno mesto in vznemirljivužitek izbire.Ustavim se v prestižni slaščičarni Wittamer na vroči čokoladi.V zgodovini so čokolado najprej poznali kot napitek, zatoHernando Cortés zapiše španskemu kralju Karlu V.: »Božanskapijača na osnovi čokolade daje moč in premagujeutrujenost. S skodelico te dragocene pijače lahko mož hodives dan brez hrane.«Res je, da mi pogosto, ko v mislih preigravam, kaj bi jedel,košček čokolade reši vsa vprašanja prehrane. Pravo merodoloča zadnji košček, ki konča evforijo, prvi pa je odločilenv presoji kvalitete. Stopam v čokoladne butike Sablona, kidelujejo kot umetniške galerije, brez fotografiranja. Vsakčokoladni izdelek je zgodba. Ni dvoma, da pralineji (čokoladnelupine s polnili) izhajajo iz Belgije. Čokoladnica, ki jihje prva izdelala, je bila ustanovljena leta 1857. Zamislimosi njihove domislice skozi leta. Osnovne stvari, ki jih čokoladniceučijo, so, da mora biti čokolada vedno shranjenana sobni temperaturi in v temnem prostoru (hladilnik alivlaga jo povsem uničita); pri degustaciji čokolade začnemos tisto, ki ima najmanjši delež kakava, nadaljujemo zbelo, mlečno in končamo s temno. Sicer pa je zapoved, daje potrebno čokolado najprej pogledati (lesk), povonjati,poslušati zvok, ko jo odlomimo (krhek pok), nato vzamemokošček čokolade in ga pustimo na jeziku 15 sekund,da se sprostijo najrazličnejši okusi, aroma in harmoničnost.Čokolada pomiri, sprosti in ustvari prijetno počutje, kotbi na novo zaživeli. Je kot umetnost: najboljša je stvarposameznikovega okusa in čutil. Potrebno je le raziskovati,eksperimentirati in zaznavati.36

uselj»Dobra za znoret! Hvala full. Urša«Čokolada sicer vsebuje le tri glavne sestavine: sladkor,kakavovo maslo in suhe kakavove dele. Aroma vanilije jeobičajna in poudari okus čokolade, mlečne maščobe indrugi dodatki pa so nezaželeni. Da je belgijska čokoladares nekaj posebnega, pridobivajo kakavovo zrno najodličnejšiproizvajalci z Madagaskarja, Jave, Kube, Ekvadorja,Kameruna, Peruja, Mehike, Venezuele in od drugod, sajje njihova kakovost odvisna od prsti, mikroklime, žuželk,obdelovanja zemlje, celo od uravnavanja količine vode zavsako drevo posebej na posebnih plantažah, pa od predelaveizdelka, praženja, mletja in mešanja. Tudi dodatki kčokoladam so posebej uvoženi, recimo mango iz Brazilije,pistacije iz Irana, rdeči ribez iz Maroka, fige iz Izmirja …Čokoladno razsvetljenje pa doživim na koncu v čokoladniciLaurent Gerbaud, ki prisega pri bogu, da njegovačokolada ne vsebuje sladkorja ali pa le minimalen delež– če res ne gre drugače; ne dodaja masla, ne alkohola, nekonzervansov, ne sojinega licitina, ne umetnih arom indrugih dodatkov.Tudi sam imam dve prisegi pri bogu. Prva je, da sem naSablonu jedel najboljši tiramisu v življenju. V bistroju L'Entreedes Artistes ga pripravijo s piškoti Speculoos, ki jih v trgoviniDandoy pečejo že od leta 1829. Ena drugačna sestavina papostavi sladico na zmagovalni oder. In druga prisega: Sablonbo ostal vaš najlepši in najslajši bruseljski spomin, od prijateljevpa boste dobili za čokolado od tam zgornjo pohvalo.37

The Sablon – thechocolate delightsof BrusselsText: Damijan JagodicPHOTOGRAPHS: Damijan Jagodic, profimediaThis article is the fruit of ten years of experience.That's how long I've been eating chocolate andmaking frequent visits to Brussels. I've neverrecommended Brussels to anyone because of its"must see" tourist attractions. The food, on theother hand, is a chapter unto itself. Tourists willfind Belgian beer and excellent – albeit pricEy –moules-frites; the aroma of waffles, on the otherhand, is much more alluring than the taste."The only nice thing in Brussels is the Sablon," a friend wholives there once told me. She knows I love chocolate, whichis a trademark in Belgium. And the Sablon district boasts thelargest selection of boutique chocolate. The window displaysare filled with the chocolate that has flooded Europe, so wecan acknowledge the important position it occupies andenjoy the exciting pleasure of choice.I stop at the prestigious Wittamer café for some hotchocolate. Historically, chocolate was first known as a drink;writing to King Charles V of Spain, Cortés described "a divinedrink based on chocolate that gives strength and overcomesfatigue. Just a cup of this invaluable drink and a man canwalk all day without food."At the café with the loveliest view of the Sablon, they offersweets that are more expensive if served at your table andhot chocolate – bitter and runny; I had to eat chocolatebonbons on the side to be able to drink it down. I rememberedthat the Aztecs drank bitter chocolate and used hotchocolate to enhance the strength, concentration and alertnessof their soldiers. Those who serve chocolate ought to beparticularly punctilious and courteous: after all, they are sellingworks of art, not garden hoses. The staff of this café arenot sufficiently aware of this. But let's start with the Sablon.A small square of chocolate discoveries, galleries,antique shops, all sorts of wonderful things …The heart of the city can be traversed on foot. My foldingscooter would be of little help to me, as the ground is pavedwith granite blocks. The loveliest route to the Sablon districtruns past the Royal Palace in the direction of the Place Royal,presided over by the equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon– a Flemish nobleman who was among the leaders of theFirst Crusade and became ruler of the Kingdom of Jerusalem.Behind him stands the beautiful church of Saint Jacques-sur-Coudenberg, while in front of him extends what I considerto be the most beautiful view of Brussels. René Magritte, thefamous painter, has a museum here, and there are a numberof other museums in the area. The Sablon district is not farfrom here: halfway between the Place Royal and the Palaceof Justice. The Sablon is a small, prestigious part of the city.The name dates back to a time when it lay outside the citywalls and was traversed by a sandy path. This yellowish layerof sandy clay was known in French as sablon. A horse fair,vegetable market and dairy market once stood here, but since1960 it has been the city's main antiques district. The area isalso graced by a fifteenth-century church; there I find a smallicon with a prayer written in Slovene; it's an intercession forCharles, Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary. Outsidethe church is a small park containing a monument to twoBelgian national heroes who fought against the tyranny ofSpain, surrounded by statues of prominent sixteenth-centuryintellectuals and scientists. The park is encircled by 48 miniaturestatues representing the medieval guilds of Brussels.Leave a piece of chocolate on your tongue for 15seconds... it's not the best in the world thoughThere are chocolateries at every step in the Sablon. They're38

usselsextremely tempting to me, and I've long had to listento people telling me that I'm going to come down with"sugar poisoning".It's true; often when I'm contemplating what to eat, a pieceof chocolate will solve all my nutritional dilemmas. Thelimits of moderation are set by the last piece, which putsan end to the euphoria, while the first piece is excellentfor judging the quality. I walk into the chocolate boutiquesof the Sablon and they seem like art galleries – nophotography allowed. Each chocolate creation is a story.There is no question that pralines (filled chocolate shells)originate in Belgium. The first chocolaterie to make themwas established in 1857. Just think of all the ideas theymust have come up with since then. The basics they teachyou about chocolate are that chocolate must always bekept at room temperature in a dark place (refrigeration ormoisture generally ruin it); when tasting chocolate, youstart with the one with the lowest cocoa content and workyour way up: white chocolate, milk chocolate and, finally,dark chocolate. There's a commandment that states thatchocolate must first be looked at (its shine) and smelled,and that we have to listen to the sound it makes whencracked (the brittle pop); we then take a piece of chocolateand leave it on our tongue for 15 seconds to bring out itsdiverse flavours, aroma and harmony. Chocolate has acalming, relaxing effect; it generates pleasant feelings, asif new life has been breathed into us. It's like with art: "thebest" is a matter of the individual's taste and senses. All weneed is to explore, experiment and perceive.Adria Airways flies toBRUSSELS every day."It's insanely good! Thank you sooo much! Urša"What else? Chocolate contains three main ingredients: sugar,cocoa butter and dry cocoa mass. Vanilla extract is commonlyused to accent the chocolate's flavour; milk fat and other additivesare frowned upon. To ensure that Belgian chocolate issomething truly out of the ordinary, cocoa beans are procuredfrom the finest producers in Madagascar, Java, Cuba, Ecuador,Cameroon, Peru, Mexico, Venezuela and other places; thequality of the cocoa beans depends on the soil, the microclimate,insects, tillage and even on regulating the amount ofwater each individual tree gets on separate plantations. Andof course, processing, roasting, grinding and blending alsoplay a part. The flavours added to the chocolate are also imported:mango from Brazil, pistachios from Iran, redcurrantsfrom Morocco, figs from Izmir, to name just a few.In the end, I experience a chocolate epiphany at the chocolaterieof Laurent Gerbaud. Laurent swears that his chocolatecontains no sugar or just a minimum amount – if there's noother way; he doesn't add butter or alcohol or preservativesor soy lecithin or artificial aromas or other additives.For my part, there are two things to which I'd swear. The firstis that I ate the best tiramisù I've ever had in my life in theSablon. At the brasserie restaurant L'Entrée des Artistes, theyprepare it using Speculoos biscuits, which Maison Dandoyhas been baking since 1829. One different ingredient is allit takes to put this dessert on the winner's podium. And thesecond: the Sablon will remain your sweetest, most beautifulmemory of Brussels, and in return for the chocolate youbring them, your friends will show their gratitude with wordslike those written above.39

040Okusiti SlovenijoBesedilo: prof. dr. Janez Bogataj Fotografije: Tomo jeseničnikGornji naslov je hkrati tudi uradni slogan kulinarične in gastronomske razpoznavnostiSlovenije. Leta 2006 je namreč po dolgih desetletjih popolne slovenske anonimnosti vsvetu tudi Slovenija začela sistematično usmerjati svojo kulinarično in gastronomskopodobo. Na stičišču Alp, Mediterana in Panonske nižine se je namreč v dolgih stoletjih zgodovinskegarazvoja razvijal nek svojevrsten »Fusion Food«, nadgrajen z istovetnostjolokalne in regionalne ustvarjalnosti.Tako kot celotna podoba kulture in življenjskih slogov se je tudikulinarična in gastronomska podoba ustvarjala kot preplet različnosti.Slednje so obstajale in so prisotne še danes glede na vrsto jedi kottudi na njihove geografske, družbene, generacijske in še kakšne pogojenosti.Sicer pa pregovor, ki ima korenine še v starem Rimu, pravi:Človek jé, kar jè! Torej, povej in predstavi mi, kaj ješ, in povedal ti bom,kakšno je tvoje gospodarjenje, kako si vpet v naravno in kulturnookolje, kakšni so tvoji vsakdanjiki in prazniki, kakšni so tvoji sosedskiodnosi, kako poznaš vrednote, ki ti pogosto ležijo pred domačimpragom … Prebivalci Slovenije se pogosto radi pohvalimo tudi spregovorom, da gre ljubezen skozi želodec(!) Torej neka posebnazaljubljenost, ki se ne kaže le v odnosih med ljudmi, ampak tudivključene v skupino »Gostilna Slovenija«. Ustvarjalna iskanja odražajopester izbor v nekaterih restavracijah, velika mera kuhanja z naravopa je v gostinski ponudbi marsikatere turistične kmetije. Svojevrstnoje druženje poučnega z okusnim na številnih kulinaričnih prireditvah,ki zberejo veliko število obiskovalcev in navdušencev ob bograču,poticah, sladicah in slaščicah, praženem krompirju, kranjski klobasi …,seveda tudi na prireditvah, kjer imajo odlična slovenska vina prvo inzadnjo besedo. Vse to se dogaja v Sloveniji, ki jo odlikuje 24 gastronomskihregij z blizu 190 značilnimi in razpoznavnimi lokalnimi inregionalnimi jedmi. Med živili jih je nekaj v odlični druščini zaščitenih,kar zagotavlja njihovo stalno kakovost, tradicionalne tehnologije predelavein izdelave, vezanosti na določena lokalna in regionalna okoljana številnih drugih področjih. Tako so npr. pogosti pogovori našihljudi med obiskom gostinskih lokalov prav o jedeh in hrani(!)Slovenijo že nekaj let promoviramo kot zeleno, aktivno, prijaznodeželo in državo. V turističnih okvirih ne pozabimo poudariti razmerijz vzdržnim in sonaravnim razvojem. Prav na področjih kulinarikein gastronomije ter tudi njune kulturne dediščine. Podobno so napodročjih sodobne kreativne kulinarične ustvarjalnosti vezi s temipojmi, bolje rečeno – zavezami, najbolj oprijemljive. Skozi bogastvazdravega naravnega okolja ter mojstrstva kuharjev in kuharic spoznavamoprebivalce mest in trgov, vasi in samotnih visokogorskih kmetij,njihove oblike gospodarskega prizadevanja, družbenih odnosov terduhovne ustvarjalnosti. Zgodbe o lokalnih in regionalnih kulinaričnihposebnostih nam nizajo številne gostilne, najboljše med njimiin kontinuiteto bolj ali manj v zgodovino segajočega izdelovanja.Tako rekoč v enem dnevu lahko razlikujete med okusi Mediterana,gozdov in travnikov alpskega sveta in izluščite posebnosti panonskekuhinje. Podobo sodobne kulinarične Slovenije sooblikujejo kuhinjedrugih kultur in drugih geografskih okolij, med katerimi so verjetnona prvem mestu nekatere posebnosti sosednjega Balkana. Slovenskamiza ni enolična in težko bi jo opredelili v enem stavku ali le z nekajjedmi. Kjerkoli se ustavite, povsod je nekaj drugačnega, različnega. Panaj gre za kozarec naravne mineralne vode, belo ali rdeče vino, juho,zelenjavno enolončnico, močnato pogačo, slastno pečeno meso aliperutnino, eno od potic, ki jih je čez 80 vrst, podobno ali celo še večještevilo štrukljev, svežo ribo iz slovenskega morja ali okusno postrviz bistre reke. Povsod bo jed drugačna, povsod vas bodo navdušilidrugačni okusi, ki se bodo zlili z različnostjo pokrajin.

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Taste SloveniaText: Prof. Janez Bogataj, PhD Photography: tomo jeseničnikThe above heading is the official slogan of Slovenia’s culinary and gastronomic identity. In 2006, following decades ofanonymity on the world scene, Slovenia began systematically developing its culinary and gastronomic image. At the pointwhere the Alps, the Mediterranean and the Pannonian Plain meet, through centuries of historical development, a uniquefusion food has taken shape and been enhanced by local and regional creative identities.Like a comprehensive image of a culture and its lifestyles, the culinaryand gastronomic image was created through the intertwining of differences.These differences existed in the past and still exist today, and relatenot only to types of foods, but also to geographic, social, generationaland other factors. And of course there is the saying that dates back toAncient Rome: You are what you eat! In other words, show me what youeat and I will tell you what your way of life is, how you are linked to yournatural and cultural environment, what your average days and holidaysare like, what kind of relationship you have with your neighbours, andhow you recognise the values that you often leave at your doorstep. Theinhabitants of Slovenia often like to flatter themselves with the saying“Ljubezen gre skozi želodec(!)” or “Love runs through the stomach(!)”. Itmust be a special kind of love that appears not only in relationships betweenpeople, but also in a number of other areas. To take one example:even at restaurants, conversations between Slovenians often revolvearound food(!) For a number of years, we have been promoting Sloveniaas a green, active, friendly country. And in the context of tourism, wemake sure we emphasise our relationship with sustainable development– precisely in the culinary arts and gastronomy, as well as in their culturalheritage. Similarly, it is in the field of modern culinary creativity that linksor, more accurately, alliances with sustainable development are mosttangible. Through the riches provided by a healthy natural environmentand the superlative skills of chefs, we are coming to know the residents oftowns and markets, of villages and remote farms high in the mountains,and the forms taken by their efforts to make a living, their social relationshipsand their spiritual creativity. A number of gostilne or traditionalSlovenian eateries tell us tale upon tale of the special culinary featuresof the locale or region, and the best among them are included in theGostilna Slovenija group. Creative exploration also figures prominentlyin the menus of certain restaurants, and a sizeable share of the cooking42

taste sloveniaat some farm tourism establishments is done in harmony with nature.The merger of the educational and the delicious is a unique feature ofa number of culinary events that draw a large number of visitors andbograč/potica/dessert/sautéed potato/Kranjska klobasa enthusiasts; thiscan of course also be found at events where Slovenian wines have thefirst and last word. All this is happening in Slovenia, a country that boasts24 gastronomic regions and nearly 190 characteristic, recognisable localand regional dishes. Some foods find themselves in the excellent companyof protected foodstuffs, a category that guarantees their consistentquality, the use of traditional technology in processing and preparation,a connection to a particular local and regional environment and thecontinuity of traditions of food preparation that more or less extend farback into history. In a single day, you can taste the differences betweenthe Mediterranean and the forests and meadows of the Alpine world andnote the special features of Pannonian cuisine. The image of modern culinarySlovenia is shaped in part by the foods of other cultures and otherenvironments, including – probably first and foremost – certain culinarycharacteristics of the neighbouring Balkan region. Slovenian fare is anythingbut uniform and would be difficult to describe in just one sentenceor just a handful of dishes. Wherever you stop, there’s something different,something diverse. Whether it be a glass of mineral water, white or redwine, soup, a vegetable stew, a hearty pogača, mouth-watering roastmeat or poultry, one of the over 80 varieties of potica or perhaps evengreater number of varieties of štruklji, fresh fish from the Slovenian sea ordelicious trout taken from a clear river. Everywhere you go, the food willbe different, and everywhere you will be delighted by the different tastesas they blend with the differentiating features of their respective regions.PREVAJANJE inTOLMAČENJEWWW.ALKEMIST.SI 080 777 777

SlovenskoameriškokulinaričnosodelovanjeNa ameriškem veleposlaništvu so v aprilupripravili projekt slovensko-ameriškegakulinaričnega sodelovanja. S tako imenovano»kulinarično« diplomacijo so želeliprikazati ameriško kulturo prehranjevanjain jo povezati z lokalnimi kuhinjamiposameznih področij Slovenije. V tanamen sta obiskala našo državo priznanaameriška šefa kuhinje: Lenny Russo inCassie Parsons. Oba imata bogate dolgoletneizkušnje s področja gastronomijein pridelave hrane in sta vneta zagovornikafilozofije »z njive na krožnik«. Medsvojim obiskom v Sloveniji sta potovalapo posameznih predelih dežele in odkrivalatradicionalne slovenske jedi, njihovesestavine in različne načine priprave. Vgostilnah, restavracijah in na kmetijahsta se srečevala z različnimi slovenskimisogovorniki ter izmenjavala svojeizkušnje in znanja. Glavni svetovalec zakulinarična vprašanja s slovenske stranije bil priznani etnolog, prof. dr. Bogataj,posneta pa je bila tudi televizijska oddaja»Zabeljeno po ameriško«.44Lenny Russo,lastnik / šef kuhinje v restavraciji Heartland Restaurant v St. Paulu v MinnesotiOwner/Chef, heartland Restaurant, St. Paul, Minnesota»Ko me je Christopher Wurst z ameriškega veleposlaništvav Ljubljani prvič vprašal, ali bi želel obiskatiSlovenijo in se povezati s slovenskimi kmeti,šefi kuhinje in vinarji, sem bil seveda navdušen,kot bi bil vsak šef ob misli na raznolike sestavinein kuharske tehnike, ki jih bo spoznal na svojempotovanju. Moja najbolj drzna pričakovanja so bilaznatno presežena in največji vtis sta naredili nameprijaznost in srčnost slovenskega naroda. Slovenciniso le ljubeznivi in dobrosrčni, temveč tudiizjemno prefinjeni, ustvarjalni in premorejo velikostila. Lepoto slovenskih mest in vasi ter osupljiveprizore na podeželju sta prekosila le očarljivost inmilina njihovih prebivalcev. Cenim vsak trenutek,ki sem ga doživel na svojem prekratkem obisku,in upam, da se bom kmalu vrnil, podoživel nekajteh trenutkov in se znova povezal s čudovitimiprijatelji, ki sem jih imel srečo spoznati. Resničnočutim v svojem srcu, da je Slovenija dobila novegasina. Hvala lepa, Slovenija!«-- Lenny Russo»Majhna Slovenija je dežela z raznovrstnopokrajino in hrano. Kamorkoli smo šli, povsod sonas sprejeli z odprtimi rokami in bogato tradicijo.Vsepovsod, tudi na podeželju, sta bili vidnikulinarična kreativnost in skrb za podrobnosti.Očarala sta me ponos in strast ljudi, ki sem jihsrečala in so bili z mano pripravljeni deliti svojedomove in recepte. Tu sem se naučila ogromnoin v Ameriko se vračam z novim navdihom in s ševečjo predanostjo odlični hrani. Slovenija ni samov mojem trebuhu, ampak je tudi trdno zasidranav mojem srcu.«-- Cassie ParsonsFoto: Shaun Liboon/Silver City Photography

Slovenian-AmericanculinarycollaborationIn April the American Embassy set up aproject of Slovenian-American culinarycollaboration. Using what they term“culinary diplomacy”, they wanted topresent American food culture and linkit to the local cuisine of different areasof Slovenia. To this end, two famousAmerican chefs de cuisine, Lenny Russoand Cassie Parsons, visited Slovenia. Bothhave long and distinguished careersin gastronomy and food preparation,and both are ardent advocates of thephilosophy “from field to plate”. Duringtheir visit to Slovenia they travelledto individual parts of the country anddiscovered traditional Slovenian dishes,their ingredients and the various waysof preparation. At inns, restaurants andon farms they encountered a variety oflocal people, with whom they exchangedtheir experiences and knowledge. Theirmain adviser for Slovenian culinaryissues was the renowned ethnologist, DrJanez Bogataj, and they also recordeda television broadcast, “Zabeljeno poameriško” (Cooked up the American Way).Cassie Parsons,lastnica / šefinja kuhinje v restavraciji Harvest Moon Grille v Charlotte v Severni KaroliniOwner/Chef, Harvest Moon Grille, Charlotte, North CarolinaWhen I was first asked by the U.S. Embassy in Ljubljanaif I would be interested in coming to Sloveniato visit and connect with Slovenian farmers, chefsand winemakers, I was naturally thrilled, as any chefwould be, with thoughts of the wonderful ingredientsand cooking techniques I would find during mytravels. While my most fervent imaginings in that regardwere far exceeded, I was most impressed by thekindness and spirit of the Slovenian people. I foundSlovenes to be not only gracious and overwhelminglyopenhearted but also incredibly, sophisticated, stylishand creative. The beauty of Slovenia's cities, townsand villages and the astonishing vistas of the countrysidewere only exceeded by the charm and grace ofits beautiful people. I cherish each and every momentI had during my all too brief stay, and I hope to returnsoon to relive some of those moments and to reconnectwith the wonderful friends I was so fortunate togain. I truly feel in my heart that Slovenia has gaineda new son. Hvala lepa, Slovenia!-- Lenny RussoThis tiny country of Slovenia is jam packed withvariety in its landscape and its food. Everywhere wewent, we experienced incredible hospitality and richtraditions. Culinary creativity and attention to detailwere everywhere, even in the most rustic settings. Iwas struck by the pride and passion of the people Imet, who were so willing to share their homes andrecipes with me. I have learned so much here, andwill return to America with a renewed inspirationand commitment to excellent food. Slovenia isn'tonly in my belly, it is now firmly in my heart.Foto: Courtesy of Cassie Parsons-- Cassie Parsons45

046besedilo: Matjaž Potokarfotografije: arhiv L. SpacalaSRCE KRASAVprašanje, koliko oblikuje umetniško ustvarjalnost okolje, iz katerega izhaja umetnik, je nikoli do konca izpetrefren. Zelo zanimiv je primer enega največjih slovenskih likovnih umetnikov dvajsetega stoletja, Lojzeta Spacala.Na prvi pogled se zdi odgovor več kot jasen. Pokrajine, iz katerih je izhajal in se ob njih napajal, so odločilnoizoblikovale njegovo ustvarjalnost. Pa je res tako? Ali ne gre tu tudi za preskok v umetnikovo notranjost in somorje, kras in svet v Spacalovi ustvarjalnosti njegove notranje pokrajine? Ali tvegamo preveč, če rečemo, da sošele njegove notranje pokrajine oblikovale podobe teh pokrajin, da so dokončno postale to, kar so?

MorjeSpacal je otrok morja, burje, kamna in tudi mesta.Otroštvo je preživel na Krasu, od koder izviratanjegova starša. Očeta je kot kamnoseka zaznamovalkraški kamen, morda si ga zato Lojze nidrznil nikoli neposredno uporabljati. Z morskopokrajino se v mladosti najprej razide. Zamenjajo za kostanjeviški Kras. V pokrajino morja se vrnešele po očetovi smrti, ko kmalu po osnovni šoli žepomaga preživljati družino.Morska pokrajina ga v začetku še ne vznemirjatako, kot se ga kasneje dotaknejo Piran, Strunjan,Sečoveljske soline in savudrijski čolni, obešeni nadrogove. Takrat se tudi umetnosti še ne zapiše.Najprej se izkleše v priložnostnega delavcapa tudi v domoljuba in protifašista. Ustanavljamladinska društva po Krasu, v Tomaju, Pliskavici,prireja dogodke in gledališke predstave, se druži skasnejšimi bazoviškimi žrtvami. Ko fašisti zaprejonjegove prijatelje, želi pobegniti v Švico. Na mejiga primejo in pošljejo v zloglasni zapor ReginaCoeli v Rimu. V samici prebije dva meseca včakanju na sodni proces. Takrat se sedemindvajsetletniSpacal za vedno zapiše umetnosti.Zaradi sodelovanja v narodnostnem gibanju gaizženejo na jug Italije, kjer se preživlja kot mizar.Tam spozna popolnoma novo gozdno pokrajino,ki ga spomni na kraško ljudsko umetnost inrokodelstvo. Njegov veliki ustvarjalni uspeh jeumetelno okrašena krsta štiriletni kmečki dekliciv slovo, ki jo je revni družini v Accetturi izdelalbrezplačno. Menda tako spontanega odziva nedoživi nikoli več, niti ob podelitvi Velike nagradeza grafiko na Beneškem bienalu leta 1958 ne.Po vrnitvi iz južne Italije ga v Trstu navdihnemorska pokrajina, a le za kratek čas. Odloči se zaumetniške šole v Monzi in Milanu z upanjem nadelo ladijskega dekoraterja. Spet Trst in spet morjein že prve razstave slik pa opreme ladij in ponaročilih slike na lesenih panojih. Ustvarja freskev kraških cerkvah, kar mu kasneje koristi tudi prinotranji ureditvi Gostilne Figovec v Ljubljani.Z morsko pokrajino se ponovno sreča po kapitulacijiItalije in osvoboditvi Trsta. Poročen in očedveh sinov sprejme delo dokumentiranja kulturnezapuščine v coni A. Na Beneškem bienalu leta 1948razstavi v italijanskem razstavnem prostoru štirilesoreze. Likovno opremi paviljon Gospodarskedejavnosti jugoslovanske cone Svobodnega tržaškegaozemlja. Predelana, če že ne povsem izvirnagovorica morske pokrajine takrat prvič žarko zažariv Spacalovi pisavi. Pri opremi paviljona uporabipovečave svojih fotografij ribiških mrež, savudrijskihčolnov in drugih posnetkov, izdela in okrasištevilne konzole iz mavca, okrasi panoje s ploskimibarvnimi reliefi. Skratka, uporabi vse, razen kamna.Veliko samostojno razstavlja. Opremlja čezoceanskeladje pa tudi Stadion 1. maja v Trstu arhitektaEda Mihevca. Leta 1954 je eden od soustanoviteljevMednarodnega grafičnega bienala v Ljubljani.Kupi hišo na piranski punti in jo popravi po načrtuprijatelja Mihevca, ki mu na terasi odpre pogledod savudrijskega svetilnika prek Strunjana pa vsedo Trsta, Devina in Gradeža. Novi dom in morskapokrajina zarežeta v njegovo dušo in delo. V Piranuostaja po več mesecev na leto. Iz svojega slikovitegadoma se podaja na lov za ribiškimi, solinarskimiin ljudskimi motivi, bodisi z risarsko beležnico ali sfotoaparatom v Savudrijo, Strunjan in Sečovlje.Njegovo takratno ustvarjalnost je po prehodu izmagičnega realizma in socialno angažiranih upodobitevmogoče označiti kot zasuk k abstrakciji.Sam pove, da je njegovo slikarstvo slikarstvo dvehin ne treh dimenzij. Tretja se ustvari umetno, pogostona škodo barvnih pasov in skladnosti linij, ki sovzete kot čisti ritem. Želel se je izražati neposrednoin čim manj prisiljeno. Upodobiti motiv, ki je najbližječistemu slikarstvu, ki noče biti iluzionističnoin ilustrativno sredstvo, zapiše v enem od svojihkatalogov. To je zagotovo obdobje, ko se začnejov njegovih delih zunanje pokrajine spreminjati vnjegove notranje pokrajine. Še vedno prepoznavamoelemente morja, vidimo ribiške mreže, visečečolne, soline, kanale z vetrnicami, ladjedelnice inbarke, a delujejo kot znaki, emblemi, morda tudičrke, s katerimi je Spacal na novo napisal svojonotranjo pokrajino.Vedno več tudi opremlja sakralne objekte s freskamiali sgraffiti tudi v Goriških brdih, v les rezljaobjekte in poslikava stekla. V Ljubljani izdelaosnutek za mozaik v steklu »Alegorija podeželja«za palačo Glavne zadružne zveze na nekdanjiTitovi 41. Prijatelj Mihevc takrat za dekoracijoprenove Gostilne Figovec v Ljubljani uporabipovečave njegovih grafik; z enakimi motiviprekrije stene, preobleče oblazinjeno pohištvoin dekorira zavese po Spacalovih predlogah.KrasSpacal ponovno odkrije kras po obisku slikovitegaOhrida v Makedoniji. Takrat ima za sabo žeprestižne razstave v Parizu, Göteborgu, skupaj zZoranom Mušičem v Münchnu in Grand prix zagrafiko v okviru Beneškega bienala. Menda je pravMakedonija v njem spet vzbudila davne slutnjededov, kraških »borjačev«, orodja, zidov, kamna,tradicije in načina življenja.V Piranu se sicer odpre podružnica ljubljanskeModerne galerije, ki jo v začetku koordiniraSpacal, a se njegova pokrajina vse bolj nagibav Kras. Piran zasipajo turisti in zanj postaja prehrupen.V vasi Škrbina na Krasu kupi opuščenokmečko domačijo. S svojim intuitivnim čutomza razmerja in celovitost kraškega stavbarstvajo oblikuje v harmonično celoto. Škrbina kmalupostane družinski poletni dom ter kraj srečavanjaumetnikov, kulturnikov, politikov, kritikov ingaleristov z obeh strani meje. Škrbino razume47

srce krasakot svojo dolžnost do Krasa, svoje poetike,vizualnih besed, iz katerih kasneje lušči osnovneabstrakcije kraške abecede. Zato nabiravsakršne kamnite izdelke po bližnjih vaseh injih vključuje v novi dom. Nekdanja kamnitaoblikovanja prejšnjih stoletij – vaze, vodnjake,stebre, mize, stopnice, kamnite ploskve,žlebove, dele vinskih preš, ognjišča, portone indrugo – z občutkom umešča v Škrbino. Vse semu zdi lepo in zanimivo. Na srečanjih v novemdomu rad poudarja pomen kraškega kamna.Za Spacala je kamen edini material, ki gaKraševcu dalje narava. Kraški človek vedno ljubikamen kot kruh, pripomoček in okrasje. Z obdelavokamna lahko nekaj zasluži, obenem paizrazi svojo potrebo po izpovedi lepote. Spacalopaža naglo izgubo kulturne dediščine, s tempa tudi identitete. Portoni se umikajo dovozomza velike avtomobile, kamnite vaze plastičnim.Čeprav vaščani njegovo zbirateljsko strastnajprej gledajo z začudenjem, škrbinski hišniumetnini na koncu priznajo lepoto. Strinjajose z njegovim čaščenjem izročila in kamnitedediščine. Sam umetnik po mnogih popravkihna koncu prizna, da je Škrbina podobna hišinjegovih dedov, pa tudi, da je tukaj rad, ker semu zdi, da vstopa v eno od svojih slik.Morda mu domačija v Škrbini sprva res pomenisamo pobeg iz velemestnega vrveža, a hitrovzpostavi izjemno liričen odnos s kraško krajino.V monografiji iz osemdesetih let zapoje tej pokrajinitudi besedno himno. Kras je zanj bleščečin kamnit svet. Trpka in grenka pesnitev, ki dišipo brinju, borovcih in apnencu. Iz skope naraveizvito izročilo, iz katerega je črpal svoje takratnenotranje pokrajine.Izčiščenje prostora občutijo tudi njegove likovnestvaritve. A kljub shematizaciji in izčiščenjuosnovnih znakovnih, včasih že kar črkovnihelementov, v njegovi ustvarjalni krajini ni pravegaprostora za abstrakcijo. Ves čas je jasno, katerazunanja pokrajina je pomagala oblikovatinovo ustvarjeno notranjo pokrajino. Tak je tudinjegov ustvarjalni proces. Skice in fotografije,ki jih naredi po sprehodih, pusti »ležati« nekajmesecev, dokler ga ne pokličejo. V ustvarjalnemprocesu jim dodaja zidarske materiale, pesek,zemljo, predvsem pa les. Takrat se loti tudi tretjedimenzije, lesenih objektov, ki jih obdeluje kotgrafične matrice.SvetSpacalove lokalne pokrajine postajajo kasnejevse bolj univerzalne, svetovne. Razstavlja poEvropi in Jugoslaviji, iz Občin se preseli nazajv Trst, dobiva domače in tuje nagrade, izdelatapiserijo za prenovljen Kulturni dom Eda Mihevcav Trstu. O njem snemajo filme, izdajajomonografije, zmaguje na natečajih za opremočezoceanskih ladij, oblikuje mozaik v steklu zaosnovno šolo San Luigi v Trstu. Loti se tudi scenografijza nove operne predstave v tržaškemgledališču Giuseppe Verdi.48

srce krasaKljub svoji človeški prizadetosti zaradi vseh krivic vbližnji in daljni okolici pa se umetniško na tovrstnedogodke običajno ne odziva. Vojaški udar v Čilu paga spet spomni na vse krivice, ki jih je doživel, inizrazi jih v svoji umetnosti. Njegova pokrajina vsebolj postaja svetovna, a je še vedno sestavljena izlokalnih znakov Krasa in morja. In prav to ga vodido združevanja snovnih in izraznih moči. Zato jenjegova notranja pokrajina univerzalna, pa čepravje izpisana v lokalnem besednjaku in izrisana vlokalnem koloritu. Zlahka se sprehaja od slike, grafike,freske, mozaika in vitraža do gobelinov, kipov,tapiserij, scenografij in dekorativnih plošč.Po Spacalovi osemdesetletnici odprejo v graduŠtanjel stalno zbirko njegovih del, galerijo papoimenujejo po njem. V njej je združeno pol stoletjaustvarjalnosti, ki je prehodila vse pokrajine,od tržaške, kostanjeviške in kraške preko morskev Piranu, Strunjanu, Sečovljah in Savudriji pa doOhrida, Škrbine in Ljubljane. Bolj ko je umetnik vsvojo ustvarjalnost vpletal lokalno, bolj univerzalnasta postajala njegov jezik in izraz. Od začetkado konca svojega življenja je dokazoval, da sozunanje pokrajine, po katerih je hodil, močnovplivale na njegove notranje pokrajine. Tako jeiz delčkov gradil celoto. Kraševec in Tržačan, kije postal svetovljan, je v jeseni življenja potrdilsvoje nazore tudi z neodvisno kandidaturo zaevroposlanca. Začetno vprašanje je pravzapravtreba obrniti: vse te zunanje pokrajine so postaledokončno prepoznavne šele, ko nam jih je skozisvojo notranjost predstavil poet kraškega izročilain sodobnosti, Lojze Spacal.49

THE HEART OF THE KARSTTHE HEART OF THE KARSTtext: Matjaž Potokar photographs: archive L. SpacalThe question of how artistic creativity is shaped by the environment from which the artist hails is a refrain that never playsout to the end. The case of one of the greatest 20th century Slovene painters, Lojze Spacal, is an interesting point in question. Atfirst glance, the answer seems entirely obvious. The region from which he came and which endowed him with its energy playeda decisive role in shaping his creative work. Or did it? Or is what we see actually a leap into the artist’s inner self, where the sea,the Karst and the world in Spacal’s work are his inner landscapes? Do we run too great a risk by saying that it was actually hisinner landscapes that shaped the images of these landscapes, that ultimately enabled them to become what they are?The SeaSpacal is a child of the sea, of the Bora wind; ofstone and also of the city. He spent his childhoodin the Karst, where both his parents are from. As amason, his father was marked by the karst stone,and perhaps this is the reason why Spacal neverdared to use it directly. In his youth, he first undergoesa separation from the sea. He replaces itwith the Karst of Kostanjevica. He only returns tothe seascape after the death of his father, when,shortly after finishing elementary school, he helpssupport his family.Initially, the seascape does not excite him theway Piran, Strunjan, the Sečovlje Saltworksand the boats hung on poles in Savudrija laterdo. And at this time he has yet to sign himselfover to the arts. He earns as living as a casuallabourer while dedicating himself to patrioticand anti-fascist causes. He founds youth associationsin the Karst, Tomaj and Pliskavica,stages events and theatre performances, andassociates with members of the TIGR organisationwho would later be arrested by the Fascistsand executed at Basovizza. After the Fascists arresthis friends, he tries to flee to Switzerland. Heis caught at the border and sent to the infamousRegina Coeli prison in Rome. He spends twomonths in solitary confinement as he waits forhis trial to begin. It is then that the 27-year-oldSpacal forever signs himself over to the arts.For his collaboration in the national movement,he is sent off to southern Italy, where he makesa living as a carpenter. There he comes to knowa completely new forest landscape, whichreminds him of Karst folk art and crafts. Hisgreat artistic success comes in the form of anelaborately decorated coffin for a four-year-oldpeasant girl that he crafts free of charge for apoor family in Accettura. Supposedly he neveragain experiences such a spontaneous reaction,even at the award ceremony for the Grand Prizeat the Venice Biennale in 1958.Following his return from the south of Italy, hefinds inspiration in the seascape of Trieste, but onlyfor a short time. He decides to enrol in art schoolin Monza and Milan in the hope of becoming aninterior decorator for ships. Trieste once again,the sea once again, and the first exhibitions of hispaintings, the first ship interiors and the first madeto-orderpaintings on wooden panels. He createsfrescoes in churches in the Karst, which will latercome in handy when he works on the interior ofthe Figovec restaurant in Ljubljana.He encounters seascapes again after thecapitulation of Italy and the liberation of Trieste.Married and the father of two sons, he takes ajob documenting the cultural heritage of Zone Aof the Free Territory of Trieste. At the 1948 VeniceBiennale, he exhibits four woodcuts in the Italianpavilion. He handles the visual design for thepavilion of the Economic Activities of the YugoslavZone of the Free Territory of Trieste. It is thenthat the language of the seascape – transformedor already entirely original – first shines forth inSpacal's work. He uses blown-up photographsof fishing nets, the boats of Savudrija and othershots; he crafts and decorates corbels fromgypsum and decorates panels with flat colouredreliefs. In short, he uses everything but stone.He gives numerous solo exhibitions. He decoratesocean liners and the 1° Maggio Stadium in Trieste,designed by the architect Edo Mihevc. In 1954 heis one of the founders of the Ljubljana Biennialof Graphic Arts. He buys a house on the Punta inPiran and renovates it to the plans of his friendMihevc. From the terrace, the view opens out totake in the lighthouse in Savudrija past Strunjan,and extends as far as Trieste, Devin and Grado.His new home and the seascape become deeplyetched in his soul and work. He stays in Piran forseveral months each year. He sets out from hispicturesque abode on the hunt for fishing, saltpanand folk motifs, either with his sketch pad or hiscamera. He visits Savudrija, Strunjan and Sečovlje.Following the transition from magical realismand social engagement, his creative work showsa shift towards abstraction. He himself says thathis painting is a painting of two and not threedimensions. The third is artificially created, oftento the detriment of the bands of colour andharmony of lines used as pure rhythm.50

THE HEART OF THE KARSTHe wished to express himself directly and in the leastcontrived manner. To depict the motif that lies closestto pure painting, that does not seek to be illusionaryor a means of illustration, as he writes in one of hiscatalogues. This is without doubt the period when thereal landscapes in his works begin to change into hisinner landscapes. We can still recognise elements ofthe sea, we can still see the fishing nets, the hangingboats, the saltworks, the canals with windmills, theshipyards and barges, but they function as symbols,as emblems, perhaps also as the letters with whichSpacal had begun to rewrite his own inner landscape.He spends more and more time decorating religiousbuildings in Goriška Brda and elsewhere with frescoesand sgraffiti; he carves objects in wood and paintsglass. In Ljubljana he prepares a sketch for a mosaicin glass, entitled Allegory of the Countryside, for thepalace of the Main Cooperative Association at Titova41. It is then that his friend Mihevc uses blown-up versionsof his photographs to decorate the remodelledFigovec restaurant; he uses the same motifs to coverthe walls, upholster the furniture and decorate thecurtains, using Spacal’s suggestions.51

THE HEART OF THE KARST52

THE HEART OF THE KARSTThe KarstSpacal rediscovers the Karst following a visit topicturesque Lake Ohrid in Macedonia. By now, hehas had prestigious exhibitions in Paris, Gothenburgand – together with Zoran Mušič – Munichand a first prize for printmaking at the VeniceBiennale. Macedonia is said to have awakenedin him distant echoes of his forefathers, of theKarst’s borjači or courtyards; of its tools, its walls,its stone, its traditions and way of life.A branch of the Museum of Modern Art inLjubljana opens in Piran, and in the beginning itis coordinated by Spacal, but his own landscapeis increasingly inclined towards the Karst. Piran isflooded with tourists and becomes too noisy forhim. He buys an abandoned farmhouse in thevillage of Škrbina in the Karst. With his intuitivesense of the proportions and integrity of Karst architecture,he shapes it into a harmonised whole.Škrbina soon becomes his family’s summer homeand a place for artists, cultural figures, politicians,critics and gallery owners on both sides of theborder to meet up. He understands Škrbina ashis duty to the Karst, to his poetics, to the visualwords from which he will later extract the basicabstractions of his Karst alphabet. This is whyhe begins collecting stone objects from nearbyvillages and incorporating them into his home.With sensitivity, he installs the stone designs ofcenturies past – vases, fountains, pillars, tables,steps, stone slabs, gutters, parts of wine presses,hearths, gateways and other objects – in hishome in Škrbina. It all seems beautiful and interestingto him. At gatherings at his new home, helikes to stress the importance of Karst stone. ForSpacal, stone is the only material nature gives tothe Karst. The Karst man has always had a lovefor stone: it is his bread, his tool, his decoration.He can earn money working the stone, and italso enables him to express his need to give voiceto beauty. Spacal notices the rapid loss of thecultural heritage, and with it of identity. Stonegateways give way to driveways for big cars,stone vases give way to plastic ones. Althoughthe villagers at first view his passion for collectingwith bemusement, they ultimately acknowledgethe beauty in the house-cum-work of art inŠkrbina. They agree with his reverence for thetraditions and the stone heritage. After a numberof alterations, the artist himself ultimately admitsthat Škrbina resembles the houses of his forefathersand that he likes being there because it feelsas if he is stepping into one of his paintings.The house in Škrbina may have originally beenmerely a retreat from the hustle and bustleof the big city, but he soon establishes anexceptionally lyrical relationship with the Karstlandscape. In a monograph written in the 1980s,he even sings a hymn to this place in words.For him, the Karst is a sparkling, stone world. Abitter, poignant poem with an aroma of juniper,pine and limestone. A tradition wrung out of thepenury of nature, on which he drew for his innerlandscape at the time.The cleansing of space is also felt in his visualcreations. Yet despite the schematisation anddistillation of its basic signs, at times even letters,there is no true space for abstraction in hiscreative landscape. It is constantly clear which exteriorlandscape had a hand in shaping his newlycreated inner landscape. Such is also his creativeprocess. He leaves the sketches and photographsthat he makes on his walks “lying around” forseveral months, until they call out to him. In thecreative process, he adds carpentry materials tothem, sand, soil and especially wood. It is thenthat he also pursues the third dimension, woodenobjects that he shapes as graphical matrices.The WorldSpacal’s local landscapes become ever moreuniversal, ever more global. He exhibits throughoutEurope and Yugoslavia, he moves back toTrieste from Opicine, he wins awards at homeand abroad, he creates a wall covering for EdoMihevc’s renovated Cultural Centre in Trieste.Films are made about him and monographs arewritten, he wins tenders to decorate ocean liners,he designs a mosaic in glass for the San LuigiElemtary School in Trieste. He also undertakesset design for new opera productions at theGiuseppe Verdi Opera in Trieste.Despite his human feeling for all the injustices occurringin his immediate and extended environment,he usually does not respond through hisart. The military coup in Chile calls to memoryall the injustices that he has suffered and thathe expresses in his art. Although his landscapebecomes increasingly global, it is still made up oflocal symbols from the Karst and the sea. And itis this that leads him to merge his material andexpressive powers. This is why his inner landscapeis universal, even though it is written out in localvocabulary and sketched in local hues. He easilytransitions from painting, graphic design, fresco,mosaic and glasswork to sculptures, tapestries,set designs and decorative panels.After Spacal turns 80, a permanent collection ofhis works is opened at Štanjel Castle; the gallery isnamed after him. It brings together half a centuryof creative work that treads a path throughnumerous landscapes: those of Trieste, Kostanjevicaand the Karst, seascapes in Piran, Strunjan,Sečovlje and Savudrija, and Ohrid, Škrbina andLjubljana. The more the artist integrated thelocal in his creative work, the more universalhis language and expression became. Fromthe beginning to the end of his life, he providedproof that the exterior landscapes he traversedhad a profound impact on his inner landscapes.Thus he assembled a whole from the parts. Inthe autumn of his life, this man of the Karst, thisTriestine who became cosmopolitan, providedadditional confirmation of his views by runningfor the European Parliament as an independentcandidate. The initial question actually needs tobe rephrased: all those exterior landscapes finallybecame recognisable only once they were revealedto us through the inner world of that poetof Karst heritage and modernity, Lojze Spacal.53

054Kraški ovčarjise ne bojijo volkovBesedilo: Mateja a. Hrastar Fotografije: iztok dimc

kraški ovčarjiPašniki v okolici Knežaka so eni redkih krajev v Sloveniji,kjer še vidite ovce. Toda ti kraji so tudi ozemlje volkov inmedvedov, ki se kot prehranski oportunisti radi lotijo tudidrobnice. Zato imajo ovce svoje čuvaje: kraške ovčarje.Na pašniku ob vasi Šembije čuva čredo ovac ovčarka Kena.Čeprav je še mlada, je že dvakrat srečala zveri. Prvič, ko ji je bilole nekaj mesecev in se je v hlev prikradel medved. Kena se jeočitno potuhnila in zjutraj otožno cvilila. Toda to je ni narediloprav nič boječe. Nasprotno: strumno in čuječe čuva svojevarovanke z mladiči. Če bi se čredi hotel približati neznanec, bidivje lajala. Pravzaprav pusti ljudi k ovcam le, kadar je v bližininjen gospodar Rudi.Skrivnostno pastirsko porekloKraški ovčarji, edina avtohtona slovenska pasma psov, so biliod nekdaj pastirski psi. Romantična različica njihovega izvorapravi, da so na ozem lje Slovenije prišli skupaj s Čiči, Vlahi izRomunije, ki so se od 15. stoletja dalje naseljevali v Istri. Bili soodlični ovčerejci in naselili so območje današnje Čičerije, kisega iz hrvaške Istre v Slovenijo. Včasih so psom, ki jih danesimenujemo kraški ovčarji, lokalno rekli čiči. Toda v resnici jeporeklo kraških ovčarjev nedorečeno. Res pa je, da pisni virigovorijo o tem, da so bili odlični varuhi čred. Prvič jih je leta1558 omenil upravitelj kobilarne Lipica Franc Jurko, in sicer jezapisal, da so se zelo dobro obnesli kot varuhi čred konjev. Ševečjo slavo jim je v Slavi vojvodine Kranjske v 17. stoletju namenilJanez Vajkard Valvasor: »Med psi niso kranjski najslabši,zlasti na Krasu in Pivki, kjer so tako veliki in močni, da volkukrepko kožo stresejo; zato jih imajo pastirji vedno pri sebi.«k tradicionalnim načinom sobivanja. Varovanje s psi je že enaod teh oblik.Stražarji, ki so nenehno na prežiMnogi mislijo, da so kraševci zaradi svojega dobrodušnega inmehkega videza lenivci, ki ob ovcah večino dneva prespijo inpostanejo čuječi le takrat, kadar prikolovrati medved ali napadetrop volkov. Pa ni tako. Jakob, ki čuva ovce v vasi Zagorje naKnežaku, je nenehno na preži. Njegov gospodar Franc dobrove, da četudi leži, to počne na mestu, od koder dobro viditako ovce kot ves pašnik. Ker je že od malega skupaj z ovcami,se identificira s čredo. Ni redko, da so psi do ovac naravnostljubeči, jih ližejo in ljubkujejo, še najraje pa skupaj z njimi spijo.Drugače pa je s kozami: pri teh so malce bolj previdni, saj ssvojimi rogovi nenehno rogovilijo. Njegov gospodar upa, dabo Jakob postal dober čuvaj. Zaenkrat je še v učni dobi, saj tipsi dosežejo polno znanje šele pri treh letih.Jakob bo s svojimi ovcami preživel poletje v dolini, blizu vasi.Kena pa na pašnikih višje v hribih. Gospodar Rudi jih bo sicerše vedno obiskoval dvakrat na dan, toda temne noči bodoovce preživljale same, oborožene s pogumno psičko, ki jih boneumorno varovala pred volkovi.In res – vse do konca druge svetove vojne so jih uporabljali kotvaruhe čred v Istri, na kraškem in pivškem ozemlju. Prav nadPivko, v Petelinjem, je bilo leta 1924 prvo uradno registriranoleglo kraških ovčarjev. V teh krajih so še med vojno kot polnomadipozimi selili velike črede ovac vse do Furlanije. Ob ovcahpa so seveda imeli pse.Skoraj izumrli, sedaj v sožitju z naravoOvčereja pa je v Sloveniji po drugi svetovni vojni tako rekočzamrla in skoraj bi izumrli tudi kraševci. Tistih nekaj, kar jih jeostalo, so postali bolj kot varuhi ovac na vrvi priklenjeni čuvajidvorišč. Šele v zadnjih letih, ko se ponovno uvaja ovčereja, sokraški ovčarji spet postali pastirski psi. A ne pastirski v smisluzganjanja črede, temveč pastirski varuhi. To, da so kraškiovčarji ponovno postali varuhi čred, je v mnogočem posledicanavdušenja lastnikov teh psov. Vseh kraških ovčarjev jetrenutno nekaj manj kot 700, toda le dvajset je varuhov čred.Projekt ponovnega uvajanja kraških ovčarjev kot pastirskihpsov so začeli pred sedmimi leti v Društvu ljubiteljev in vzrediteljevkraških ovčarjev. Zadnja tri leta društvo sodeluje tudiv evropskem projektu zaščite volka SloWolf, ki si prizadeva zaohranjanje števila volkov v slovenskih gozdovih.S pastirskimi psi, ki varujejo črede, je ovca cela in volk sit. Dobesedno.Kajti že njihova prisotnost pogosto odžene volkove,ti pa niso več na črni listi za odstrel in se tako njihovo številolahko ohranja. Volkovi so namreč ogrožena vrsta. Če želimo, dazveri in ovce bivajo v naravnem okolju, se moramo pač zateči55

Karst Shepherds aren't afraid of wolvesText: mateja a. hrastar Photographs: iztok dimcThe pastures in the vicinity of the village of Knežak are oneof the few remaining places in Slovenia where you can stillsee sheep. Yet this is also wolf and bear territory, and thesedietary opportunists love to help themselves to sheep. That'swhy the sheep have their own guardians: Karst Shepherds.A sheepdog named Kena guards a flock of sheep on the pastureson the outskirts of the village of Šembije. Although she is stillyoung, she has already had two encounters with wild animals.The first occurred when she was just a few months old, when abear found its way into the sheep barn. It was obvious that Kenachose to lie low, and the morning found her whimpering piteously.But the incident hardly put a dent in her fighting spirit. Onthe contrary: steadfast and vigilant, she guards her charges andtheir young. If an intruder were to approach the flock, she wouldbark wildly. As a matter of fact, she only lets people near the sheepwhen her owner Rudi is around.A mysterious pastoral originKarst Shepherds, the only autochthonous Slovene breed of dog,have served as sheepdogs for centuries. The romantic version oftheir origin states that they arrived in Slovenia with the Čići orIstro-Romanians, Vlachs from Romania who populated Istria beginningin the fifteenth century. Skilled sheep farmers, they settledin the area today known as Ćićarija, which extends from CroatianIstria to Slovenia. The dogs known today as Karst Shepherds wereonce locally called čići. The true origin of the Karst Shepherds is,however, unclear. But it is true that written sources mention thembeing excellent guardians of flocks. They were first mentioned in1558 by one Franc Jurko, the manager of the stud farm in Lipica,who writes that they excelled as guardians of the horse herds.They achieved even greater renown in the seventeenth century,when Johann Weichard Valvasor mentioned them in The Glory ofthe Duchy of Carniola: "The Carniolan dogs are by no means theleast among dogs, especially in the Karst and Pivka, where theyare so large and strong that they can soundly thrash the hide of awolf; that is why the shepherds always keep them close at hand."And it is true – until the end of the Second World War they continuedto be used to protect flocks in Istria, in the Karst and in the Pivkaarea. It was in Petelinje, a settlement just above Pivka, that the firstlitter of Karst Shepherds was officially registered in 1924. Even duringthe war, herders with a semi-nomadic way of life would move theirsizeable flocks of sheep through these parts in the winter, going asfar as Friuli. As well as their sheep, of course, they had their dogs.Once on the brink of extinction, now in harmony with natureSheep farming in Slovenia almost died out after the Second WorldWar, and with it the Karst's canines also came near to extinction.The few that remained were more often to be found chainedup in yards than protecting flocks. Only in recent years, with thereintroduction of sheep farming, have the Karst Shepherds onceagain become sheepdogs. Not sheepdogs in the sense that theyround up the flocks: rather, they are what are known as livestockguardian dogs. The Karst Shepherds' return to their role as guardiansof flocks is in many ways the result of the enthusiasm of theowners of these dogs. In total, there are currently a little under 700Karst Shepherds; yet only 20 of them are guardians of flocks. A projectto reintroduce Karst Shepherds as sheepdogs was started sevenyears ago by the Association of Owners, Supporters and Breeders ofKarst Shepherds of Slovenia. Over the past three years, the Associationhas also been active in the European SloWolf project, dedicatedto maintaining the wolf population in Slovenia's forests.With herding dogs protecting the flocks, the "sheep is whole andthe wolf is full", as the Slovene saying goes. Literally. Since the dogs'presence is often enough to drive away wolves, the latter are nolonger on the blacklist of animals to be killed, thus conservingtheir population. Wolves are in fact an endangered species. If wewant wild animals and sheep to coexist in the natural environment,we need to resort to traditional forms of cohabitation.Using dogs as guardians is one such approach.Sentinels constantly on guardBecause of their good-natured and soft appearance, many believeKarst Shepherds to be lazy dogs who spend most of the daysleeping alongside the sheep, becoming vigilant only when a bearcomes around or a pack of wolves attacks. But it isn't so. Jakob, whoguards the flocks in the village of Zagorje pri Knežaku, is constantlyon guard. His owner Franc knows full well that even when he liesdown, he'll find a spot that offers a good view of the sheep andthe entire pasture. Because he has been in the company of sheepsince he was young, he can identify with the flock. It is not unusualfor dogs to adopt what can only be described as a loving attitudetowards the sheep – they'll lick them and cuddle up to them; mostof all, they like sleeping in their company. Goats are a differentstory – with them, the dogs are more cautious, as the goats areconstantly bothering them with their horns. Jakob's owner hopeshe will grow to be a good guardian. For the time being, he's still inthe learning period – only when they are three years old are thesedogs considered to have acquired full knowledge.Jakob will spend the summer with his sheep in the valley, nearthe village. Kena will spend hers in the pastures higher in the hills.Although their owner Rudi will continue to visit them twice a day,the sheep will spend the dark nights on their own, armed with abrave dog who will tirelessly guard them from wolves.56

Karst Shepherds57

058

foto: Mateja GuštinURBANISTANMatjaža Krivicabesedilo: Katja Golob fotografije: Matjaž krivicNa svetovni dan muzejev, 18. maja 2013, je v Slovenskem etnografskemmuzeju ugledala luč sveta fotografska razstava Matjaža KrivicaURBANISTAN, projekt, s katerim avtor predstavlja mestno okolje deželtretjega sveta. Razstava je nastala ob 15. obletnici fotografovegaustvarjanja in ob tej priložnosti se bo tudi zbiral denar v humanitarnenamene za delovanje Sechen šole za sirote v bližini mesta Degev vzhodnem Tibetu.59

Intimno v množici, intimno na očehMatjaž že petnajst let potuje po svetu in fotografira. »Ssvojim neuglednim nahrbtnikom sem verjetno videti kotnajbolj običajen turist, fotoaparat pa izvlečem ven le popotrebi. Morate pa vedeti, da se za večino fotografij, ki jihposnamem z ljudmi, vedno prej dogovorim z njimi. Prepričamjih s kretnjami, očmi, nasmehom, očitno sem jim simpatičen,pogosto pa si tudi sami želijo biti na fotografijah.«Pogled na fotografije Urbanistana, kot so: spokojna mati in sin, romarja, ki sta počílav templju, moški med molitvijo, brahmani, ki masirajo drug drugega, ženska, ki prosiza plodnost, dečki, ki se urijo za rokoborbo, brivec s stranko, čistilka, ki čisti stopnice,štiriletnik, ki pazi na svoje ogromne težke bivole, odrasli moški, ki igrajo odbojko, afriškizeleni Jurij z vudu pridihom in še številne druge, razkrije, da gre za izjemne trenutke,trenutke intime, ki se, ujeti v objektiv, prelivajo v magični realizem. »Gre za urbane podobetretjega sveta, ki pa niso nujno moderne. Hotel sem ujeti trenutek med urbanim intradicijo, vrednotami in vero. Ti ljudje kljub pritiskom modernizacije še vedno živijo svoja60

tradicionalna življenja. Res gre za intimne trenutke na očeh javnosti, za dokumentarnoestetiko s portreti, kar pomeni, da objektiva nisem ravno skrival, ampak sem bil v središčudogajanja. Portret v množici je izziv zame in za tistega, ki ga fotografiram, saj intimnohitro postane javno in obratno.«To je tudi eden izmed fokusov razstave, ki raziskuje stičišča, kjer se posamezniki in skupnostzbližujejo in razvijajo ter postajajo nekakšna urbanost vsega človeštva. »Vrednotese razlikujejo le za odtenek: pri nas moraš imeti pametni telefon in sončna očala, nekjena Bližnjem vzhodu pa pametni telefon, nož in puškoKalašnikov.«Na razstavi Urbanistan je na ogled 71 fotografij s področjaAzije in Afrike, ki se tenkočutno sprehajajo med modernimin tradicionalnim, lovijo mejo med vidnim innevidnim in ustavljajo čas v trenutkih, ko je bil ta najlepšiin spominja na privid.61

foto: Ana NovakO fotografuMatjaž Krivic je slovenski fotograf zmednarodnim ugledom in številnimipriznanji za svoje fotografsko delo.Plod njegove dokumentarne estetikeso fotografije, v katere so ujetiljudje in pokrajine vsega sveta nanačin, ki deluje čarobno, hkrati parazkriva njihovo primarno naravo.62

URBANISTAN by Matjaž Krivictext: Katja golob photographs: Matjaž krivicOn 18 May 2013, coinciding with International Museum Day, an exhibitionof photographs by Matjaž Krivic entitled URBANISTAN opened at theSlovene Ethnographic Museum. In this project the photographerexplores the urban environment of the third world. The exhibitionmarks the 15th anniversary of Krivic's photographic career and theoccasion will also serve to raise funds for the Shechen Charity OrphanSchool near the town of Derge in Eastern Tibet.63

The intimate in the crowd, the intimate in our eyesFor 15 years Matjaž Krivic has been travelling the world andtaking photographs. “With my scruffy backpack I probablycome across as the most ordinary of tourists; I only take mycamera out when needed. For most of the photographs that Itake with people in them, I always try to get their consent first.I try and persuade them with gestures, with my eyes, with mysmile. They obviously find me likeable and they are often keento be in my photographs themselves.”A look at the photographs from Urbanistan – showing scenes such as a pilgrim motherand son sleeping in a temple, men at prayer, Brahmins massaging one another, a womanpraying for fertility, boys practising wrestling, a barber with a customer, a cleaning ladycleaning steps, grown men playing volleyball, an African Green Man with a hint of voodooand many others – reveals that these are extraordinary moments, moments of the intimatewhich, captured in the lens, flow over into the realm of magic realism. “These are urbanimages of the third world, but they are not necessarily modern. I wanted to capture the momentbetween the urban and tradition, values, religion. Despite the pressures of modernisation,these people still live their traditional way of life. These really are intimate moments64

foto: Ana NovakAbout the photographer:Matjaž Krivic is a Slovene photographer who has garneredinternational renown and received a number of awards for hisphotographic work. Photographs that capture people and theirsurroundings in a way that seems magical but at the same timeexposes their primary nature are the fruit of his documentaryaesthetic.lived out in public, a documentary aesthetic throughportraits, which means that I didn’t exactly conceal my lensbut instead placed myself at the centre of the action. Theportrait in a crowd is a challenge for me and for the personI’m photographing, because the intimate quickly becomesthe public and vice versa.”This is also one of the focal points of an exhibition that explores the nexuses where individualsand the community draw closer and develop in unison, becoming a sort of urbanity of allmankind. “Values differ only in shades: in our country, you have to have a smartphone and sunglasses,while somewhere in the Middle East it’s a smartphone, a knife and an AK-47 assault rifle.”Urbanistan features 71 photographs taken in Asia and Africa. The photographs subtly treadthe line between the modern and the traditional; they pursue the boundary separating thevisible and the invisible and freeze time in those moments when it is at its most beautiful andmost akin to an illusion.65

066Živahnimetalciv rajskemokoljubesedilo: CARMEN LEBAN Fotografije: IZTOK DIMCSoška dolina, ki sodi med najlepše v Evropi,če ne celo na svetu, bo letos že deseto letozapovrstjo gostila metalski festival, ki so gapoimenovali Metaldays. Tu ne gre za klasičnifestival, ki jih pripravljajo v velikih dvoranah,na stadionih ali v halah, ampak za nekajčisto drugega. Festival se namreč odvijaob sotočju rek Soče in Tolminke, ki s svojosmaragdno zeleno barvo pričara posebnovzdušje. Zvoki najbolj zvenečih svetovnihizvajalcev metal glasbe pa obiskovalcepopeljejo do raja.

68Metaldays, festival,ki se bo v Tolminuletos že deseto letozapovrstjo odvijalmed 21. in 27. julijem,bo, kot zagotavljajoorganizatorji, nekajposebnega.

metal campMetalci so posebni ljudje, to so tisti, ki potujejona festivale tudi na tisoče kilometrov daleč,tisti, ki se prelevijo v prave vrage. Obvezna črnaobleka, metalski nakit, domiselne frizure, ki jihnavadno zaznamujejo dolgi lasje, »odštekana«pokrivala, ki kar tekmujejo po izvirnosti,nenavadne oprave … Ja, vse to so metalci, kise z živahnim plesom predajajo divjim ritmom.Na festival v soško dolino prispe osemdesetodstotkov tujcev, med njimi največ Nemcev,prihajajo pa tudi iz najbolj oddaljenih držav nasvetu. Vse bolj ugotavljajo, da se festivala udeležujejocele družine, ki svojim odraščajočimotrokom pripravijo nepozabno doživetje. Lepojih je videti, očeta in mamo v poznih srednjihletih in njune otroke, ki gredo po stopinjahstaršev; ti so jim privzgojili ljubezen do te temperamentneglasbe, ki te zasvoji in brez katerekar naenkrat ne moreš več živeti.In zakaj je prav tolminski metalski prazniknekaj tako posebnega? Predvsem zaradi tega,ker je edinstven, saj lokacija omogoča, daobiskovalci kampirajo na samem prizorišču,imajo pred seboj prireditvene odre, le nekajdeset metrov stran kristalno bistri reki Sočo inTolminko, številne prodnate plaže, ki jim ponujajovse, kar človek potrebuje na počitnicah,na oddihu. In kaj je lepšega kot sredi poletjazdružiti glasbeni festival z oddihom v enkratniin neokrnjeni naravi, le streljaj daleč odTriglavskega narodnega parka! Prav narava, kizaznamuje tolminski metalski festival, je tista,ki da prireditvi dodano vrednost, in prav zaraditega na omenjenem festivalu ni petdeset,šestdeset ali več tisoč obiskovalcev, ampak zamnoge ‘le’ skromnih deset do dvanajst tisoč.»Gre za občutljivo okolje in prizadevamo si,da ga z organizacijo festivalov ne bi degradirali.Skrbimo za to, da obiskovalci ločujejoodpadke, saj jim potem, ko vrnejo praznevrečke, povrnemo plačano kavcijo, ravno takoza kozarce …« pove Roman Fileš, eden oddolgoletnih organizatorjev Metalcampa oziromaletošnje prireditve Metaldays. »Ko sempred več kot desetletjem s svojim bendomsodeloval na lokalni študentski prireditvi, semse v to lokacijo preprosto zaljubil in že takratsem vedel, da jo je treba predstaviti širšemusvetu, ki mora postati prizorišče, kjer se v prijetnemsozvočju spajajo glasba, čudovita naravain veseli ljudje.«69

metal campSmeh, veselje, plešoča razgreta telesa in predajanjeglasbi, pivo, nova poznanstva, vročepoletne avanture, ljubezni na prvi pogled …Ja, vse to lahko doživite na Metaldays, na prireditvi,ki metalske vrage popelje med zvezde, vraj na zemlji. Prve ne pozabiš nikoli, pravijo, inzato se metalci, ki so enkrat doživeli tolminskifestival, vedno znova vračajo.Organizatorji in obiskovalci, ki bodo letospraznovali deseto obletnico druženja obzvokih težkega metala, obljubljajo, da bodonadgradili spremljevalni program in popestrilidogajanje na plaži. Pri oblikovanju glasbenegaprograma, ki bo vsak dan potekal od 17. uredalje, so želeli zajeti čim večjo pestrost in širinotega žanra, velik poudarek pa bodo nameniliatraktivnim skupinam. Najbolj izpostavljenibodo: King Diamond, In Flames, Ensiferum,Imported Canadian Special Old, Mesuggah,Hypocrisi, Wintersun, Iced Earth, Subway toSally, My Dying, Bide, Powerwolf, Ihsahn …»Kar se tiče novih skupin, je letos velikonovosti. V Sloveniji običajno omenjajo IronMaiden in Motorhead in tu se vse konča. Sampa lahko zatrdim, da ima heavy metal velikovečjo širino, zato se nagibamo k vedno večjiraznolikosti in k mladim uspešnim skupinam,«pove Fileš. Navdušen je tudi, ker gredo kljubvsesplošni krizi letos vstopnice bolje v promet,saj so jih do začetka marca prodali že 40odstotkov. Letos so nekoliko več pozornostinamenili Južni Ameriki, zato pričakujejo velikporast obiskovalcev s tega dela sveta.Sicer pa se udeleženci festivala pogosto odločajo za raznolikoturistično ponudbo. Zanimajo jih predvsem vodni športi, od raftinga,canyoninga do hydrospeeda, privlačijo jih ostaline iz 1. svetovnevojne ter številne druge naravne in kulturne znamenitosti, ki jih je vdolini Soče na pretek. Skratka, počitnice, o katerih lahko vsak glasbenisladokusec le sanja.70

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Happy metalheads in gorgeous surroundingsText: CARMEN LEBAN photography: IZTOK DIMCThe Soča Valley is one of the most beautiful valleys inEurope, if not the world. This summer it hosts the MetalDaysmetal festival for the tenth year running. MetalDays isnot your typical big-venue festival in a stadium or arena,but something completely different. This festival takesplace at the confluence of the Soča and Tolminka rivers,which conjure up an extraordinary atmosphere with theirbright emerald waters. And the sounds of the world's mostcelebrated exponents of metal music carry festivalgoers totheir own heaven.Metal fans are special people and true metalfiends travel thousands of kilometres to festivals.The obligatory black clothes, metal adornments,inspired hairdos usually involving long hair, crazy– and original – headgear, strange accessories...Yes, these are the metalheads, who dance inbuzzing surrender to the wild rhythms. Around80 per cent of those who come to the festival inthe Soča Valley come from abroad. Most are fromGermany, but metal fans also travel here from themost distant parts of the planet. We are increasinglyseeing entire families attend the festival,providing unforgettable experiences for theirgrowing children. It's great to see fathers andmothers in late middle age with their childrenfollowing in their parents' footsteps, learning theirlove of this high-octane music that takes hold ofyou so that suddenly you cannot live without it.So why is this Tolmin metal festival so special?Mainly because it's unique, and because the locationallows festivalgoers to camp right at the eventsite; in front of them are the event stages, and justa few dozen metres away are the crystal-clearSoča and Tolminka rivers, with expanses of sandyshoreline offering everything a person might wantfor a holiday or break. And there are few things nicerthan combining a music festival in the middle ofsummer with a holiday in a unique and unspoiltnatural environment, just a stone's throw fromTriglav National Park. It is the natural environment,a hallmark of the Tolmin metal festival, that givesthe event an added value, and the reason why youdon't see fifty, sixty or more thousand people there,but only a modest ten to twelve thousand. "This isa sensitive environment and we make every effortto ensure that the festival doesn't degrade it. Wemake sure visitors separate waste, and when theyreturn empty bags they get a deposit back, thesame for glasses…" explains Roman Fileš, one ofthe long-time organisers of MetalDays (previouslyMetalCamp). "When I took part in a localstudent event with my own band more than tenyears ago, I simply fell in love with this location,and right then I knew that this location neededto be shown to the wider world, that it neededto become a venue where music, the wonders ofnature and happy people come together in pleasantharmony."Laughter, happiness, heated dancing bodies andsurrender to the music, beer, new friendships, hotsummer flings, love at first sight... Yes, you canexperience all this at MetalDays, an event thatsends metalheads to the stars, to paradise onEarth. You never forget your first time, they say,and metal fans who have once experienced theTolmin festival always come back.The organisers and festivalgoers who will thisyear be celebrating the tenth anniversary ofthis gathering to the sounds of heavy metalhave promised to beef up the accompanyingprogramme and liven up events by the riverside.In putting together the line-up for a programmeof music that starts at 5.00 p.m. each day, theorganisers wanted to show the full diversity andbreadth of the metal genre while keeping the emphasison some big names. These include: KingDiamond, In Flames, Ensiferum, Meshuggah,Hypocrisy, Wintersun, Iced Earth, Subway to Sally,My Dying Bride, Powerwolf and Ihsahn."As for new groups, there are some major innovationsthis year. In Slovenia people usually talkabout Iron Maiden and Motorhead, and that'sit. But I can tell you that heavy metal has muchmore breadth to it, so we are moving towardsmuch greater diversity and towards young successfulgroups," says Fileš. He is also pleased that,despite the general crisis, tickets are selling well.This year they have paid slightly more attentionto South America, so they are expecting a bigincrease in visitors from that part of the world.Festivalgoers often also take the opportunity tosample some of the area's many other attractions.Water sports are the biggest draw, includingrafting, canyoning and hydrospeed. Thenthere are the sites of First World War battles andthe countless other natural and cultural sights ofinterest that abound in the Soča Valley. In short, adream holiday for any music lover.72

metal campThis year's tenthedition of theMetalDays festivaltakes place inTolmin from 21to 27 July andthe organisersare promisingsomething reallyspecial.73

074foto: Fotoatelje Pavšič Zavadlavbesedilo: Vlasta MlakarIMAGO SLOVENIAE –PODOBA SLOVENIJEDegustacija vrhunske glasbene umetnostiBilo je sredi osemdesetih let prejšnjega stoletja. Kot študentka Filozofske fakultete sem živela v majhnem stanovanju naGornjem trgu. Takrat so bile ulice Ljubljane še precej zaspane; ni bilo imenitnih trgovinic in butikov, najrazličnejših lokalov zulično postrežbo in ostalega vrveža, skratka, težko je bilo govoriti o kakšnem turističnem utripu mesta. Bili pa so ljudje, ki sozaznavali duh časa in jim je bilo mar. Med njimi je bil zagotovo uglajeni gospod Primož Lorenz, umetnik, glasbenik in glasbenipedagog, ki je ljubil svoje mesto. Njegovo srce pa je bilo še večje – zaobjelo je Slovenijo in seglo čeznjo. Še danes se spominjampoletnih dni, ko je začela Ljubljana odkrivati tančico svojih skrivnosti. V prijetnem ambientu Šentflorjanske cerkve naGornjem trgu so zazvenele nežne strune glasbe, vzdušje pa so dopolnjevali drobni plameni svečk, ki so pritajeno osvetljevaliozke ljubljanske ulice in trge pod Grajskim gričem. In tako preprosto se je vse skupaj tudi začelo …74

imago sloveniaeTako suhoparno ime, pa takobogata vsebina!Iz globoke predanosti in drobnih pozornosti seje leta 1988 rodilo Društvo za oživljanje kulturnepodobe starega mestnega jedra. Društvo je biloz organizacijo koncertnih in drugih kulturnihdogodkov srce oživljanja kulturnega utripamesta in je sprožilo obnovo stavbne dediščinestarega mestnega jedra; tako so grajski in sakralniobjekti, mestni trgi z imenitnimi vodnjaki,atriji in drugi privlačni zgodovinski deli mestapostajali prizorišča koncertov. Ustanovitelj inpredsednik društva Primož Lorenz (1942–2007)je 'oče' revitalizacije Stare Ljubljane – soustvarilje številne koncertne prireditve na prizoriščihspomenikov kulturne dediščine in zasnovalfestival Poletje v Stari Ljubljani in Noči v StariLjubljani. Vizionarsko usmerjen pogled ustanoviteljadruštva in predana zagnanost njegovihčlanov pa sta vodila k oblikovanju ustanove, kije zaobjela Slovenijo in ji odprla okno v svet.Imago Sloveniae – dostopnostvrhunske kultureNa pobudo nekaterih uglednih predstavnikovdružbe je bila leta 1994 ustanovljena UstanovaImago Sloveniae – Podoba Slovenije.Njeni ustanovni člani, dr. France Bernik, tedanjipredsednik Slovenske akademije znanosti inumetnosti, Milan Kučan, tedanji predsednikdržave, in dr. Alojzij Šuštar, tedanji slovenskimetropolit, so leto prej na gradu Bogenšperknad Šmartnim pri Litiji podpisali ustanovnolistino, ki je bila temelj za nastanek nacionalnegaprojekta Imago Sloveniae. Spodbudilista ga želja in potreba po celoviti revitalizacijikulturne podobe starih mestnih jeder ter ostalihobjektov stavbne kulturne dediščine v povezaviz živo glasbeno in drugo umetniško ustvarjalnostjo.Tradicija in sodobnost sta si segli vroko, vrhunski glasbeni dogodki na prizoriščiharhitekturne kulturne dediščine pa so postalisvojevrsten pospeševalec kulturnega, gospodarskegain turističnega razvoja. Projekt ImagoSloveniae je edinstven in zato zgleden primer,kako je lahko kulturno-umetniški potencializhodišče za urbano in ruralno (fizično) prenovoin gospodarski razvoj. V tem pogledu je njegovavrednost danes samo še večja! Sedanji (od leta2004) direktor Janoš Kern je ustanovi dodal novorganizacijski, programski in finančni zagon.Ambiciozno zasnovan projekt Imago Sloveniaes kakovostjo in programsko širino izvede preko100 glasbenih dogodkov, ki se jih udeleži okoli80.000 obiskovalcev. V času delovanja ImagaSloveniae se je zvrstilo več kot 2.000 koncertov,na njih se je predstavilo preko 10.000 vrhunskihslovenskih in tujih glasbenikov. Razširitevprojekta v mednarodni prostor je zagotovilatudi gostovanja slovenskih umetnikov vtujini; med njimi je bil zlasti odmeven projektEvropsko glasbeno poletje 2009. Dostopnostdo vrhunske kulture je dosežena s koncerti, kifoto: Domen Palfoto: Arhiv Imago Sloveniaeso za občinstvo brezplačni, kar zahteva velikopredanega dela, predvsem pa navdušenja, kižene naprej.Živa umetnost, polna bujnegatemperamenta, prodorne ostrinein sočne polnokrvnostiTemeljno poslanstvo te ustanove je širitevvrhunske glasbene umetnosti v slovenskemin mednarodnem prostoru. Pri tem sta že odsamega začetka namenjeni posebna skrb inpozornost mladim talentom, ki šele stopajona svojo umetniško pot. Od leta 2005 jim jeposvečen Ciklus mladi talenti, ki skrbi tudi zagostovanja slovenskih glasbenikov v tujini.Danes združuje ustanova v svojem okrilju že25 slovenskih mest in krajev, ki vsako poletjeorganizirajo vrsto koncertov vrhunskih slovenskihin tujih glasbenikov, izvajalcev orkestralne,vokalne, komorne in solistične klasične glasbe,pa tudi zvrsti, kot sta džez in etno. Festivali ImagoSloveniae, ki predstavljajo odlične izvajalcein pestre koncertne programe, so si pridobilištevilčno in zvesto občinstvo. Ob zvokih glasbeso oživele viteške dvorane in grajske kapele,poseben zven so glasbi posodile majhnegotske cerkvice ali prostorne baročne cerkveneladje, obiskovalci uživajo v zunanjščinah grajskihdvorišč in atrijev, obiskujejo samotne dvorcein palače ter se prepuščajo glasbi v pristnemvzdušju historičnih trgov in mestnih ulic.Ustanova Imago Sloveniae je v petindvajsetihletih svojega delovanja ustvarila v slovenskemkulturnem prostoru neštete priložnosti in tistavzdušja intimnosti, ko lahko ponotranjimo veličinokulturnega izročila in se zavemo lastnegaduhovnega bogastva – vse to v jeziku glasbe, kine pozna meja!FESTIVALI IN GLASBENI CIKLUSIIMAGO SLOVENIAE• Mednarodni festival PoletjeImago Sloveniae;• Poletje v Stari Ljubljani;• Noči v Stari Ljubljani;• Ciklus mladi talenti;• Ciklus božičnih koncertov.75

imago sloveniaefoto: Arhiv Imago SloveniaeTEXT: Vlasta MlakarIMAGO SLOVENIAE – IMAGE OF SLOVENIAA sampling of exquisite musical artsIt was the mid-1980s. I was a student at the Faculty of Arts, living in a small flaton Gornji Trg (UPPER SQUARE). Back then, the streets of Ljubljana were still rathersleepy; the stylish little shops and boutiques, the wide variety of bars and cafés withoutdoor service, the hustle and bustle... all this had yet to appear. In short, the citywas hardly what one would call a lively tourist destination. Yet there were peoplewho could sense the spirit of the times and who were not indifferent. One suchperson was a charming gentleman by the name of Primož Lorenz, an artist, musicianand music teacher who loved his city. But his heart was even bigger than that – hislove encompassed the whole of Slovenia and extended beyond its borders. I stillremember those summer days when Ljubljana first began to part its veil and revealits secrets. In the pleasant ambience of St Florian's Church on Gornji Trg, the softmusic of strings filled the air, while the tiny flames of the candles that mysteriouslyillumined the narrow Ljubljana streets and squares beneath Castle Hill added to theatmosphere. It all began so simply…Such a dry-sounding name for such awealth of culture!In 1988, the Society for the Revitalisation of theCultural Image of the Old City Centre was bornout of a deep-seated commitment and attentionto detail. By organising concerts and other culturalevents, the Society became the heart of thereawakened cultural pulse of the city. It sparkedthe restoration of the architectural heritage ofthe old city centre as the castle, religious buildings,city squares with their beautiful fountains,atriums and other charming historical areas ofthe city became concert venues. The founder andpresident of the Society, Primož Lorenz (1942–2007), was the "father" of Ljubljana's revitalisation– he had a hand in creating a number of concertevents at venues representing the city's culturalheritage and also conceived the Summer inLjubljana Old Town and Nights in Ljubljana OldTown festivals. The visionary perspective of theSociety's founder and the committed drive of itsmembers led to the creation of an institution thatwould encompass all of Slovenia and open thecountry's window to the world.76

imago sloveniaeImago Sloveniae –High culture made accessibleOn the initiative of certain distinguished representativesof civil society, the Imago SloveniaeFoundation was established in 1994. Its foundingmembers – France Bernik, president of the SlovenianAcademy of Sciences and Arts, Milan Kučan,President of the Republic of Slovenia, and AlojzijŠuštar, Archbishop of Ljubljana and SloveneMetropolitan – had signed the founding chartera year earlier at Bogenšperk Castle near Šmartnopri Litiji, in this way laying the foundation forthe Imago Sloveniae national project. They wereguided by the desire and need for a comprehensiverevitalisation of the cultural image of oldtown centres and other elements of architecturaland cultural heritage in conjunction with livemusic and other events centred on the arts. Traditionand modernity shook hands, and musicalevents of the highest level, held in venues thatare representative of the country's architecturaland cultural heritage, became a unique catalystfor the development of culture, the economy andtourism. The Imago Sloveniae project is a uniqueand therefore exemplary model of cultural andartistic potential providing a point of departurefor urban and rural restoration (in the physicalsense) and economic development. In thissense, its value is even greater today! The currentdirector, Janoš Kern (appointed in 2004), hasgiven the Foundation a new impetus in terms ofits organisation, programme and funding. Theambitiously formulated Imago Sloveniae projectincludes a diverse programme of more than 100high-quality musical events that each year attractan audience of around 80,000 people. Sinceits founding, Imago Sloveniae has held over 2,000concerts featuring over 10,000 top musiciansfrom Slovenia and abroad. The expansion of theproject onto the international scene has createdan additional opportunity for Slovene artiststo perform abroad. One particularly successfulproject in this context was the European Summerof Music 2009. The accessibility of high culture isachieved by offering concerts that are free to attend.Organising these concerts demands a greatdeal of committed work and enthusiasm.The live arts, full of exuberant temperament,cutting-edge vision and passionThe fundamental mission of the Foundation isthe expansion of the musical arts in Slovenia andabroad. Since the very beginning, special careand attention have been paid to young talentsjust setting out on their artistic journey. Since2005, the Young Talents concert series has beencatering to them. It also provides opportunitiesfor Slovene musicians to perform abroad.Today, the Foundation brings together 25 citiesand other locations throughout Slovenia, whichorganise a wide range of classical music concertsfoto: Stane Jerkofoto: Arhiv Imago Sloveniaeevery summer featuring top Slovene and internationalmusicians, orchestral performances, vocalperformances, chamber orchestras and soloists.Other genres, such as jazz and world music, arealso featured. By offering superb performers anda diverse range of concerts, the Imago Sloveniaefestivals have amassed a considerable and loyalfollowing. Great halls and castle chapels havecome to life to the sounds of music, and smallGothic churches and spacious baroque naveshave lent their special ring to the music. Guestscan enjoy the outdoor areas provided by thecourtyards of castles and atriums, visit remotecastles and palaces, and partake of musicaldelights in the authentic atmosphere of historicsquares and city streets. In its 25 years of activity,the Imago Sloveniae Foundation has generatedcountless opportunities within the Slovenecultural arena and created intimate atmosphereswhich enable us to internalise the grandeur ofthe cultural heritage and gain an awareness ofour own spiritual riches – all in the language ofmusic, which knows no borders!foto: Nada ŽgankFESTIVALS AND CONCERT SERIES• International SummerImago Sloveniae Festival;• Summer in Ljubljana Old Town;• Nights in Ljubljana Old Town;• Young Talents concert series;• Christmas concert series .77

078Besedilo in fotografije: Janez MihovecRAFTINGNA SAVIIN NJENIH PRITOKIHIdila na rekiSava je reka z več obrazi. Takšno ježe njeno rojstvo, od obeh izvirovdalje. Sava Dolinka pride na planov nenavadnem ravninskem izvirupri Ratečah in nato kot hudournikteče proti Jesenicam, kjer je srediidilične pokrajine postavljenoindustrijsko mesto. Njen drugiobraz je Sava Bohinjka, ki vmogočnem slapu Savica izvira podorjaško steno in se prav kmaluumiri v Bohinjskem jezeru.78Obe reki sta že od začetka divji in neukročeni. Kot taki vabita na svojevode tudi navdušene raftarje in kajakaše. Obljubljata mogočne kanjone,brzice in predvsem samotno in neokrnjeno naravo. In kar je še posebejzanimivo: Sava skozi leto spreminja svojo barvo. V času topljenja snegain ledu postane sivo bele barve, poleti se spremeni v smaragdno zelenolepotico. V jesenskih poplavah dobé njene vode rjave odtenke, pozimi paturkizno modre.Ko se podamo nanjo, prestopimo v drug svet. Nič več obljudenekrajine s cestami, železnicami in naselji. Kar naenkrat pridejo na vrstoznačilen vonj reke, šumenje brzic in vodne ptice. Gornji tok Save je šesorazmerno ohranjen, pa čeprav mu že desetletja groze jezovi hidroelektrarn.V tem predelu se spreminja tudi podoba reke. Nekaj časa tečeskozi kanjone, v naslednjem trenutku se voda že razlije po obsežnihprodiščih pa tudi v več rokavov; takrat ponuja reka nova doživetja. Rečnirokavi se skozi leta spreminjajo in tako se zdi, da imamo pred sabovedno novo in drugačno reko.

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afting na saviNižje ob rečnem toku so naselja bolj pogosta in reka teče skozi urejenokulturno krajino. Vendar tega z reke ni opaziti. Čeprav so včasih naseljale nekaj deset metrov proč, je z vodnega toka videti, kot da bi človekplul v divjini. Obrežno rastje zakriva svet na drugi strani in divjina ostaneneokrnjena.Savi se z obeh strani pridružijo še njeni pritoki. Nekateri so le potoki,drugi velike reke. Prvi večji pritok Sora priteče iz Škofjeloškega hribovja. VŠkofji Loki se njen tok umiri in njeno pot do izliva v Medvodah prekine lenekaj voženj preko adrenalinskih kaskad.Ljubljanica, njen drugi pritok, je čisto drugačna zgodba. Od izvira tečeproti severu, od koder se izlije v Savo. Plovna postane šele na Cerkniškemjezeru. To potopljeno kraško polje je pravi čarovnik Houdini. V časuvelikih deževij se razlije v največje slovensko jezero in ima celih tridesetkvadratnih kilometrov površine. Njena glavna pritoka Cerkniščica in Strženpostaneta takrat mogočni reki. Potovanje po jezeru pa je podobnoobsežnemu potepanju po potopljenem trstičju pod mogočno kopoSlivnice, kjer gledajo na nas čarovnica Uršula in njene prijateljice. Podobakrajine se spremeni v sušnem obdobju, ko vode jezera izginejo v podzemljein ostaneta le še šaš in trstičje. Prav te vode pridejo spet na planopod slikovitimi naravnimi mostovi v reki Rak, tečejo po dnu nekdanjekraške jame in pod Velikim naravnim mostom v obliki podzemne rekeizginejo v Tkalca jami.Nekje v podzemlju se Raku pridruži Pivka in na Planinskem polju pridetana plano kot Unica. Poleti je to vijugava rečica, jeseni postane hitra reka,ki grozi z razlitjem, v času dolgotrajnih deževij pa nastane obsežno jezero,iz katerega se dvigajo potopljena drevesa. Vse to se konča na severnistrani polja, ki hipoma izgine v globino v slikovitih katavotronih.Na plano pridejo vode spet na Ljubljanskem barju. Po njem se pluje žetisočletja in dno Ljubljanice je zato prava arheološka zakladnica. Mirnevode reke tečejo skozi glavno mesto in svojo pot nadaljujejo na njegovidrugi strani, kjer se v slikovitem trojnem sotočju skupaj s KamniškoBistrico izlijejo v Savo.Tretji velik pritok Save, Krka, je spet čisto posebna. Ta najdaljša, izključnosamo slovenska reka teče skozi Suho krajino. Nima nobenih vodnih tokov.Na dnu več deset kilometrov dolge globoke struge teče smaragdnalepotica. Njene vode so nekaj posebnega. Raztopljenega imajo velikoapnenca, ki se iz vode izloča v slikovitih sigastih pragovih. Plovba po rekije tako res nenavadna. Pravega vodnega toka pravzaprav ni. Gre le zabrezštevilne sigaste pregrade. Za vsako nastane majhno jezero in plovbaje potepanje iz enega jezera v drugo ob pogledu na številne gradove obrečnih brežinah.Plovba po Savi in njenih pritokih je tako prava poezija. Po njej se podamoiz vsakodnevnega življenja v pravo adrenalinsko pustolovščino in samotnopotepanje po neokrnjeni naravi. V neki poseben svet torej. V nekajtakega, kar nas navdahne z navdušenjem.Sava teče po diagonali prekocelotne države. To pomeni, da negre za kratkotrajno plovbo, ampakza potovanje po reki, ki traja lahkotudi dneve.80

afting on the savaThe Sava is also joined from both sides by tributaries. Some are mere streams,while others are large rivers. The first large tributary, the Sora, flows from thehills of Škofja Loka. Its stream grows calm in Škofja Loka and its journey to itsconfluence with the Sava at Medvode is broken only by several descents overadrenaline-boosting cascades.The second tributary, the Ljubljanica, is another story entirely. It runs northfrom its source and empties into the Sava. It only becomes navigable at LakeCerknica. This waterlogged karst polje does a disappearing act worthy ofHoudini. At times of heavy rainfall, it overflows to become the largest lakein Slovenia, with a surface area of 30 square kilometres. It is then that itsmain tributaries, the Cerkniščica and the Stržen, become mighty rivers. A triparound the lake becomes a long wander through beds of submerged reeds,beneath the imposing dome-like bulk of Mt Slivnica, from where Ursula andthe other Slivnica witches observe our progress. The landscape changes inthe dry season, when the waters of the lake disappear underground, leavingonly beds of sedge and reeds. These same waters come to the surface onceagain beneath the picturesque natural bridges of the river Rak, flowing overthe floor of what were once karst caves and disappearing below the GreatNatural Bridge in the form of a subterranean river in Weaver's Cave.Somewhere underground the Rak is joined by the Pivka and the two riversreturn to the surface in unison, as the Unica, on Planinsko Polje. In summerthe Unica is a small, meandering river; in autumn it becomes a fast river thatthreatens to overflow its banks; during extended periods of rainfall, a greatlake is formed, with trees rising from it. It all comes to an end at the northend of the polje, where in a moment the river disappears into the depths inpicturesque ponors or "katavotrons".The waters return to the surface in the Ljubljansko Barje wetlands. Watercrafthave plied the river for millennia, which is why the bed of the Ljubljanica isa veritable archaeological treasure trove. The peaceful waters of the riverflow slowly through the capital and continue their journey on the otherside, where, in a picturesque triple confluence, they merge with those of theKamniška Bistrica and empty into the Sava.The Sava's third large tributary, the Krka, is again something very special.This river, the longest exclusively Slovenian river, flows through Suha Krajina.A region with no surface watercourses. The Krka, an emerald beauty, creepsalong the bottom of a deep channel more than 10 kilometres long. Its watersare remarkable for the fact that they contain a large amount of dissolvedlimestone, which is deposited in the form of picturesque tufa steps. Thismakes navigating the river a truly extraordinary experience. There actuallyisn't a watercourse per se. There are just countless tufa dams. Each forms asmall lake, and navigating the river involves passing from one lake to anotherwhile taking in the views of the many castles on the river's banks.Navigating the Sava and its tributaries is thus a kind of poetry. Setting out onit, we step out of our everyday lives and enter an adrenaline-filled adventureand a solitary journey through unspoilt nature. We enter a very special world.A world that inspires us with enthusiasm.The Sava flows diagonally acrossthe whole country. This meansthat it is not a short journey, but avoyage by river that can take days.82

afting on the sava83

084Omanmirna oaza, ki ji je vredno nameniti svoj časSultanat Oman je ena boljrazvitih arabskih državin mnogokrat povsemkrivično prezrta deželas strani popotnikov.Besedilo in fotografije: Nina Kogej

OMANPrvi stik z Omanom in njegovo urejenostjo,ki ga dobiva z možem ob prihodu vskoraj milijonsko glavno mesto Muškat,priča o moderni in napredni državi.Dobrodošlico nama izrečejo širokein razsvetljene štiri- in večpasovnice,mogočne zgradbe in moderni nakupovalnicentri, ki bi jim jih lahko zavidalicelo Američani. Skoraj težko je verjeti,kakšen napredek je ta puščavska državadosegla v komaj štiridesetih letih, odkarje prišel na prestol sultan Qaboos binSaid. Oman je imel namreč do leta 1970po vsej državi le dobrih 5 kilometrovasfaltiranih cest, eno bolnišnico in triosnovne šole, ki pa so jih lahko obiskovaliizključno dečki. Po le štirih desetletjihpa je stanje v državi postavljenopovsem na glavo. Odročne vasice, ki sobile nekoč dostopne le peš ali z ježo naoslih, postajajo z novozgrajenimi cestamiskoraj na dosegu rok in ljudje, kiso si nekoč jutra, dneve, večere in nočikrajšali ob ognju in s kramljanjem osvojih čredah, se dandanes pogovarjajopo najmodernejših prenosnih telefonihin se prevažajo naokoli z dragimi džipiin poltovornjaki. Ves ta hitri razvoj paseveda ni prav nič nenavadnega, čevemo, da za vsem tem napredkom stojibogastvo, pridobljeno z njihovim črnimzlatom. Ta privablja tujim obiskovalcemširok nasmešek na obraz, saj je zaliter bencina potrebno odšteti zgolj 25centov. Prav to pa je tudi razlog, da seza raziskovanje te ogromne puščavskedežele tako kot midva mnogi odločijokar za najem avtomobila.85

Kljub dejstvu, da je Oman ogromnopuščavsko področje, sva bila nadpokrajino vedno znova presenečena, saj seraznolikost kaže v pestrosti narave.Lepo urejene in široke ceste z oznakami v latinicikmalu postanejo za tiste prave avanturistenekoliko dolgočasne, zato sva se oba hitrostrinjala, da za raziskovanje Omana najamevanekaj bolj trpežnega. Med najino obveznoopremo je brez omahovanja pristalo terenskovozilo na 4 x 4 pogon. Le-tako sva bila prinačrtovanju poti popolnoma brez omejitevin edina stvar, ki bi naju pri tem lahko ovirala,je bila najina (ne)avanturistična narava. Kljubdejstvu, da je Oman ogromno puščavskopodročje, sva bila nad pokrajino vedno znovapresenečena, saj se raznolikost kaže v pestrostinarave. Tu so mogočna gorovja, ki ponujajoprekrasne razglede, ter strmi, ozki makadamskikolovozi. Najvišja cesta v državi se nahaja na2.000 metrih nadmorske višine in naju popeljevse do omanskega Velikega kanjona. Njegovaglobina znaša 1.500 metrov in ponuja prekrasnemožnosti za ljubitelje trekinga, vključnoz vzponom na najvišji vrh, Jebel Shams (gorasonca), s katerim boste za 48 metrov premagalimagično višino treh tisočakov.Z najvišje točke v državi pa s spustom nazajv dolino zopet doživljava popolnoma novsvet, ki se riše z majhnimi in očarljivimivasicami. Vožnja čez posušeno rečno strugo86

in vijuganje okoli ogromnih skalnatih blokov,ki jih je tu pustila voda, je tisto, zaradi česarje najem terenca pravi užitek. Visoke kamnitestene, ki se ozko dvigajo nad nama, zopetkažejo veličino narave. Tu so tudi Wadiji,doline, ki so lahko ob nenadnem deževju vzimskih mesecih izredno nevarne. Obdajajojih namreč visoka gorovja, od koder voda včasu dežja z veliko močjo prihrumi z njihovihvrhov in pred sabo odnaša vse, kar ji stoji napoti. Kljub suši, ki vlada v Omanu, pa se vodamnogokrat zadrži v osamljenih rečnih strugahin tolmunčkih, ki so kot nalašč za prijetnoosvežitev ob visokih temperaturah, značilnihza to arabsko državo.Oman ponuja tudi ogromno obale. Pravzapravje zaradi nje ribištvo skupaj s kmetijstvomdruga najmočnejša ekonomskapanoga v državi. Prisrčna bela mesteca, kjerso obale okrašene z nešteto ribiškimi čolni,naju znova in znova očarajo. Najino raziskovanjeje zaradi prijaznih in radovednih domačinov,ki naju nenehno pozdravljajo z »esalamalejkum« in kažejo dobrodošlico s širokimiin iskrenimi nasmehi, še toliko bolj zanimivo.Tudi ladjedelci, ki še vedno povsem ročnoin po tradicionalnem načinu gradijo svojetipične 200 ton težke ribiške ladje, imenovanedhow, se ne dajo motiti, medtem ko jihradovedno opazujeva in se čudiva njihovemuumetniškemu ustvarjanju. Končno pa tunajdeva tudi tisto tipično omansko hrano, kjerdobiva za predjed pita kruh in humus, sledipa riba z rižem.Seveda pa v Omanu ne gre prezreti nitipuščave: od dolgočasno kamnite do vednoočarljive peščene, kjer se sipine dvigujejo tudido 150 metrov nad nama. Odločila sva se,da najmanjšo med njimi, Wahiba, prečkavatudi sama, in izkušnja, ki sva jo doživljala medvožnjo, je resnično nepozabna. Kljub pustinji,ki ji ni in ni videti konca, je sem in tja vendarlemogoče opaziti kakšno čredo koz in kamel tervideti tipična bivališča beduinov, kjer ljudje ševedno živijo takšno življenje, kot so ga poznališe pred odkritjem nafte. Kljub odročnostinjihovih domov pa jih prav to dela dobrosrčnein gostoljubne ter tako zavidljivo preproste.Čeprav je Oman še marsikomu neznanka, galetno obišče že približno 1,2 milijona turistov.Država usmerja svoj trajnostni turistični razvojizključno na luksuzne obiskovalce in prav tolahko naredi potovanje po Omanu pregrešnodrago. A dokler je Oman še v turističnem razcvetu,obiskovalcem povsem brezplačno nudimožnost divjega kampiranja. Bi bilo lahko splohkaj lepšega, kot deliti svoje prenočišče z milijonizvezd na nebu, kjer ti dela družbo radovednačreda kamel in kjer te bučanje valov počasiodnaša v miren spanec?OMAN87

OmanA tranquil oasis that iswell worth your timeText and photographs: Nina KogejThe Sultanate ofOman is one of themost developed Arabstates and also oneof the most unjustlyoverlooked bytravellers.88My husband and I make our first contact withOman and its well-ordered way of life in thecapital Muscat, a city of nearly one millioninhabitants that testifies to how modern andadvanced the country is. We are welcomed bywide, well-lit four-and-more-lane highways,imposing buildings and modern shoppingcentres that even Americans would envy. It'shard to believe the advances this desert nationhas achieved in just forty years, since SultanQaboos bin Said acceded to the throne. Up until1970, Oman only had a little over five kilometresof asphalt roads, one hospital and three primaryschools, which only boys could attend. Now, in amere four decades, the conditions in the countryhave for the most part been turned upsidedown. Distant villages once accessible only onfoot or by mule have been brought closer bythe construction of new roads, and people whoonce spent morning, noon and night huddledover a fire talking about their herds today converseusing state-of-the-art mobile phones andgo about in expensive jeeps and pickups. All thisrapid development is of course nothing out ofthe ordinary if we keep in mind that behind allthese advances lies the wealth acquired throughthe Oman's "black gold". It is this that puts akilometre-wide smile on the faces of foreign visitors:a litre of petrol will run you a mere 25 cents.This is also the reason why, like many, we optedto hire a car to explore this vast desert country.The neatly ordered, broad streets with signs in theRoman alphabet soon become boring to thosewith adventure in mind, which is why we soonagreed that we would be needing something morerugged to explore Oman. An all-terrain four-wheeldrivevehicle soon found its way onto our list ofessential supplies. This way, we were completelyfree of limitations in planning our trip; the onlything that could now stand in our way was our(less than) adventurous nature. Despite the factthat Oman covers a huge desert area, it constantlysurprised us with the diversity of its highly variednatural surroundings. Lofty mountain ranges offeringamazing views, and steep, narrow macadamcart tracks. The highest road in the country lies at2,000 metres above sea level and takes us right intothe heart of Oman's Grand Canyon. At a depthof 1,500 metres, it offers wonderful opportunitiesfor trekking enthusiasts, including a climb upthe country's highest mountain, Jebel Shams (or"Mountain of the Sun"), where you will pass themagic 3,000 marker by 48 metres.

OMANDespite the fact that Oman coversa huge desert area, it constantlysurprised us with the diversity of itshighly varied natural surroundings.89

OMAN90

OMANDescending back into the valley from the highestpoint in the country again puts us in a completelynew world, one composed of small, charmingvillages. Driving over the dried-up river beds andwinding our way round the massive stone bouldersleft here by the waters is what makes rentinga 4x4 such a joy. The high rock walls that narrowlyrise above us yet again reveal the magnificenceof nature. This is also a land of wadis, valleys thatsudden rainfall in the winter months can makeexceptionally treacherous. They are surrounded byhigh mountains, from the peaks of which torrentscome roaring down in times of rain, carrying withthem everything that stands in their way. Despitethe drought that reigns in Oman, water is oftenstored in isolated river beds and pools that areideal for providing pleasant refreshment in thehigh temperatures characteristic of this Arab state.Oman also offers an extensive coastline. Thisis actually the reason why fishing, along withagriculture, is the country's second most powerfuleconomic sector. The adorable white towns thatadorn the coast with countless fishing boats enchantus over and over again. Our exploration ismade all the more interesting by the kind, curiouslocal inhabitants, who never fail to greet us withan "as-salam alaykum" and extend a welcomewith their wide, sincere smiles. And the boatbuilders,who still craft their typical, 200-tonne fishingdhows entirely by hand and using traditionalmethods, do not let themselves be bothered aswe curiously observe them and marvel at theirartistic creations. And it is here that we finally findthat typical Omani dish: pita bread and hummusas an appetiser, followed by fish with rice.And of course even the desert is not to beoverlooked in Oman: from the dull rock desertto the always enchanting sandy desert, wheredunes rise above to a height of up to 150 metres.We decided to traverse the smallest one, Wahiba,ourselves, and the experience of the drive wastruly unforgettable. Despite the wasteland thatappears to go on without end, here and there youcan nonetheless spy a flock of sheep or herd ofcamels and typical Bedouin huts, where peoplecarry on the way of life they knew before oil wasdiscovered. Although their dwellings lie off thebeaten path, they are all the more kind-hearted,welcoming and enviably simple for it.Although Oman is still unknown to many, it isalready visited by around 1.2 million tourists eachyear. The country focuses the development of itstourism solely on luxury guests, and this can maketravel in Oman scandalously expensive. But whiletourism in Oman is still a developing industry,visitors still have the opportunity to camp in thewild free of charge. What could be lovelier thansharing your abode with millions of stars in the skyand a curious herd of camels, while the murmur ofthe waves carries you off into a peaceful sleep?91

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SLOVENIJA / SLOVENIANekaj osnovnih podatkovA Few Factspovršina (v km 2 ) 20 273gozdovi 11 854travniki 5 593polja in vrtovi 2 471sadovnjaki 402vinogradi 163dolžina meje (v km)s Hrvaško 546z Avstijo 324z Italijo 235z Madžarsko 102obala (v km) 46,6najvišja točkaTriglavgostota naseljenosti2864 m(prebivalcev/km) 98prebivalstvo2 milijonaglavno mesto: Ljubljanavečja mesta:Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenjepodnebje:alpsko, celinsko, sredozemskojezik: Uradni jezik jeslovenščina, na območjihz mešanim prebivalstvompa tudi madžarščina initalijanščina.Pri stiku s tujci uporabljajoprebivalci Slovenije največkratangleščino, nemščino,italijanščino in francoščino.denarna valuta: Denarna valutaje evro (EUR). Tuje valute lahkozamenjate na mejnih prehodih,v bankah, menjalnicah inhotelih.territory area (in sq. km) 20273forests 11 854grassland 5 593fields and gardens 2 471orchards 402vineyards 163border length (in km)with Croatia 546with Austria 324with Italy 235with Hungary 102coastline (in km) 46.6highest pointTriglavpopulation density2864 m(inhabitants/km) 98population2 millioncapital:Ljubljanamajor towns:Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenjeclimate: Alpine, Continental,Mediterraneanlanguage: The official languageis Slovene, as well as Hungarianand Italian in areas of mixedpopulation.People who live in Sloveniamost commonly use English tocommunicate with foreigners,then German, Italian andFrench.currency: The currency is theeuro (EUR). Foreign currencymay be exchanged at bordercrossings, in banks, exchangeoffices and hotels.prazniki1. januar novo leto8. februar Prešernov dan, slovenski kulturni praznik31. marec in 1. april velika noč, velikonočni ponedeljek27. april dan upora proti okupatorju(druga svetovna vojna)1. in 2. maj praznik dela25. junij dan državnosti15. avgust Marijino vnebovzetje31. oktober dan reformacije1. november dan spomina na mrtve25. december božič26. december dan samostojnostiholidaysJanuary 1February 8March 31 & April 1April 27May 1 & 2June 25August 15October 31November 1December 25December 26New Year’s HolidayPrešeren Day, Slovene Day of CultureEaster Sunday and MondayDay of Uprising Against the Occupation(WW2)Labour Day, PentecostStatehood DayAssumption DayReformation DayAll Saints’ DayChristmas DayIndependence Day

CopenhagenManchesterAmsterdamBrusselsParisFrankfurtZurichMunichViennaVeronaLjubljanaVeniceBelgradeSarajevoSplitDubrovnikPristinaIbizaMenorcaPalma de MallorcaPodgoricaTiranaSkopjeThessalonikiThassosIstanbulKerkira/CorfuLefkasSkiatosLesbosMaltaKefalonijaZakinthosChiosMykonosSantoriniSamosKosRhodosKarpatosHeraklionDjerba

Evropa / EuropeRedni poletiScheduled FlightsČarterski poletiCharter Flightszimski in poletni vozni redWinter and summer timetableMoscowIz/fromLjubljana/BrnikNm/kmČas poleta/Flight time(A320/CRJ)Iz/fromLjubljana/BrnikNm/kmČas poleta/Flight time(A320/CRJ)Amsterdam 606/1122 1.35 hAntalya 966/1789 2.35 hBelgrade 267/494 1.05 hAqaba 1454/2692 3.18 hBrussels 559/1035 1.26 hCairo 1276/2363 3.25 hCopenhagen 641/1187 1.39 hChios 738/1367 2.10 hFrankfurt 420/778 1.07 hDjerba 796/1474 2.20 hIstanbul 781/1446 1.53 hDubrovnik 292/541 1.05 hManchester 868/1608 2.11 hHeraklion 832/1540 2.15 hMoscow (Sheremetyevo) 1120/2074 2.35 hHurghada 1533/2839 3.45 hMunich 224/415 0.41 hIbiza 799/1480 2.20 hParis (Ch. de Gaulle) 616/1141 1.36 hKarpathos 996/1844 2.35 hPristina 622/1150 1.50 hKefalonija 585/1083 1.45 hPodgorica 365/676 1.25 hKerkira (Corfu) 523/968 1.35 hSarajevo 222/411 0.41 hKos 873/1616 2.20 hSkopje 413/765 1.07 hLarnaca 1197/2216 3.00 hSplit 207/383 0.50 hLefkas (Preveza) 567/1050 1.40 hTirana 474/878 1.14 hLesbos (Mitiline) 746/1381 2.10 hVienna 153/283 0.30 hMalta 670/1241 2.00 hZurich 334/619 0.56 hMenorca 646/1196 1.55 hMykonos 793/1468 1.56 hPalma de Mallorca 723/1339 2.10 hRhodos 947/1753 2.30 hSamos 823/1524 2.10 hSantorini 836/1548 2.15 hSharm el Sheikh 1505/2787 3.45 hSkiatos 632/1170 1.50 hAntalyaThassos (Kavala) 563/1043 1.45 hTel Aviv 1286/2382 2.57 hLarnacaThessaloniki 571/1057 1.24 hZakinthos 632/1170 1.50 hCairoSharm el SheikhHurghadaTel AvivAqabaIz/from PRISTINAFrankfurt 930/1722 2.50 hMunich 646/1196 2.00 hIz/from PRISTINAVenice 567/1050 1.45 hVerona 650/1203 1.20 hAdria Airways has used the map or Europe exclusively as an illustration of its flight connections and without any political or other implications.

ADRIA airwaysFlota - FleetIlustracije: Miha ŽnidarAirbus A319Število/Total 2Dolžina/Length33.84 mVišina/Height11.76 mRazpon kril/Wingspan34.10 mHitrost/Cruising speed900 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude11 700 mDolet/Range6 650 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 135Airbus A320Število/Total 1Dolžina/Length37.57 mVišina/Height11.75 mRazpon kril/Wingspan31.10 mHitrost/Cruising speed900 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude11 700 mDolet/Range3 890 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 180Bombardier CRJ-900Število/Total 4Dolžina/Length32.50 mVišina/Height7.57 mRazpon kril/Wingspan23.20 mHitrost/Cruising speed882 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude12 496 mDolet/Range3 600 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 86Bombardier CRJ-200 LRŠtevilo/Total 5Dolžina/Length26.77 mVišina/Height6.22 mRazpon kril/Wingspan21.21 mHitrost/Cruising speed860 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude12 496 mDolet/Range3 285 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 48/50102

ADRIA airwaysDobrodošli v letalu Adrie AirwaysSpoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, nam dovolite, da vas opozorimona nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred poletom, med njim in po pristanku.Pred poletomEkonomski in poslovni razredNa večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A-319, A-320, CanadairRegional Jet CRJ-200LR in CRJ-900.Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi zaposlovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzemakadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumovpotovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporaba poslovnihsalonov na letališčih idr.V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskih tarifah,ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve.Nakup vozovnice prek spletaLetalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirateter kupite na Adrijini spletni strani www.adria.si.To velja le za polete na Adrijinih letih. Nakupprek interneta je zaščiten z varnostnimcertifikatom. Elektronske vozovnice prejmepotnik po elektronski pošti.V primeru, da potrebujete letalskovozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudidrugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, da pokličetenaš Klicni center za rezervacije inprodajo letalskih vozovnic na telefonskihštevilkah 386 1 369 10 10 in 080 13 00.Potujte z elektronsko vozovnicoNa vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznikaje možno leteti z elektronsko vozovnico.Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti (itinerar)v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj elektronski naslovin ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj ves čas potovanja. Priokencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom ali osebno izkaznico.Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerim ta vstopi v letalo. Elektronskinačin dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavlja sproten vpogled v dogajanjez vozovnico, hiter prenos podatkov in manjše možnosti zlorab. Najpomembnejšepri tem pa je, da so potnikovi kuponi za let shranjeni v elektronski oblikiin tako varni pred izgubo.Adria Airways tudi na mobilnih telefonihVsem uporabnikom pametnih telefonov sporočamo, da si lahko na svojemmobilnem brskalniku nastavite našo mobilno stran m.adria.si ali pa s skenerjemkod poskenirate QR kodo.Če skenerja nimate, si ga lahko naložite na povezavi»http://www.i-nigma.com/Download-nigmaReader.html”. Uporabniki iPhona pa to najdete v iStoru.Mobilna stran prinaša: spremljanje statusa letov, informacijeo voznem redu, informacije o naših destinacijahin informacije o vremenu na destinacijah.Poleg tega pa lahko na tej strani najdete še: vodič za potnike, turistični vodnik,naše kontakte in različne povezave do sledenja prtljage, iskanja poslovnihsalonov po letališčih in preverjanje milj v klubu Miles&More.Seveda pa so tu še novice in najbolj vroče cenovne ponudbe vozovnic ter»checkmytrip«, kjer lahko preverite svoje potovanje.Web Check-inV Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsaka minuta.Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet. Webcheck-in je novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prijavo na let, sajse nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziroma povsod, kjer jevzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahko prijavite največ 24ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web-check-in je trenutno možnale za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjih mesecih bomo obstoječimdestinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove.Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EUPotnikom svetujemo, naj pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov, ki jih jemogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzor nad uvozommesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev in drugih tovrstnih izdelkov je nujen za zaščitoljudi in živali pred boleznimi, ki se lahko prenašajo s temi živili.V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljageugotovi prisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-te zaseže. Informativniletak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani.Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovispletni strani www.vurs.gov.si v poglavju Javne objave/Uvoz živil zaosebno rabo.Ročna prtljagaZaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate mednarodnapravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage vvelikosti 55 x 40 x 23 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov.Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težje kosepa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, dapredal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti v njempremaknejo.Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj po izstopuiz letala tudi prevzemite.Varnostna pravilaEvropska unija je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejujejokoličino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo.V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, ki morajo bitishranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100 mililitrov. Te posodemorate zapakirati v prozorno plastično vrečko, ki jo je mogoče znova ponovnozatesniti; prostornina vrečke posameznega potnika ne sme biti večja od enegalitra. Med tekočine spadajo: voda in druge pijače, juhe in sirupi; kreme, losjoni inolja; parfumi; razpršilci; geli, vključno z geli za lase in tuširanje; posode z vsebinamipod pritiskom, vključno s peno za britje ter drugimi penami in dezodoranti;kreme, vključno z zobno kremo; mešanice tekočin in trdih snovi; črtalo za veke intuš za trepalnice ter katerekoli druge snovi s podobno vsebnostjo.104

ADRIA airwaysAdria Airways Welcomes You AboardDear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasant as possible, allowus to draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safety before take-off, during theflight and after landinG.Before take-offEconomy and business classThe majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A319 and A320,Bombardier CRJ-200 LR and CRJ-900.A business-class ticket is issued according to the current business-class tariff and isvalid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and picked up at any time andincludes other advantages such as changing the date of travel without additionalcharge, a larger free baggage allowance, the use of business lounges at airports, etc.Economy class is for passengers with economy-class tickets, which are cheaper andcarry certain restrictions.Online ticketingThe cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visit Adria’s websiteat www.adria.si. This only applies to flights operated by Adria. Online purchases areprotected by a security certificate. Passengers receive their electronic tickets via e-mail.If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contact our CallCentre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00.Travel with an electronic ticketYou can travel with an electronic ticket on all AdriaAirways scheduled flights. On purchasing a ticket,passengers receive a passenger coupon anditinerary in an Adria Airways cover. You can alsoreceive the document via e-mail and print ityourself. You must keep this document withyou throughout the journey. At the check-in,present your passport or identity card. Thecheck-in personnel will issue you with yourboarding pass. Electronic documentation ofthe ticket sale means that the ticket status canbe verified at any time. It also facilitates rapid transfer of data andreduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly, there is no danger of losingthe boarding pass, since it is stored in electronic form.Adria Airways on mobile phonesTo all smartphone users – we would like to inform you thatyou can now set our mobile site, m.adria.si, on your mobilebrowser or scan your QR code with a barcode scanner.If you do not have a barcode scanner, you can downloadone by clicking the following link http://www.i-nigma.com/Downloadi-nigmaReader.html. iPhone users can findthis in the iStore.The mobile site provides information on the following: flight status, timetables,destinations and weather conditions.In addition, you will also find the following: travellers guide, tourist guide, ourcontact details and various links to: baggage tracking, searches by airport businesslounge, and frequent flyer miles in the Miles & More Club.Of course, you can also find news, the hottest ticket price bids and “checkmytrip”where you can check information on your trip.Web Check-inAt Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling. Especiallywhen heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The web check-inservice is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk: because you cancheck in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internet connection. You cancheck in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes before your scheduled departuretime. Web check-in is currently only available on selected Adria flights. In the comingmonths new destinations will gradually be added.Restrictions on bringing food into the EUWe advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought into theEU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish, shellfish andproducts derived from them is necessary to protect people and animals from thediseases that they can transmit.If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin during routineluggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet “What to bringhome” is available on our website.More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of the Republicof Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the section Public Announcements/Importof Foodstuffs for Personal Use.Carry-on baggageFor your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules that permitpassengers to have one piece of carry-on baggage of a maximum size of 55 x 40 x23 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg.Carry-on baggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items may bestored under the seat in front of you if possible.We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins as items mayhave moved during the flight and may fall out.If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on baggage must be surrenderedon boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft.EU airport security rulesIn 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict the amount ofliquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft.You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand luggage. Theseliquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capacity of 100 millilitreseach. These containers must be packed in one transparent re-sealable plastic bagof not more than one litre capacity per passenger. Liquids include: water and otherdrinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions and oils; perfumes; sprays; gels, includinghair and shower gels; contents of pressurised containers, including shaving foam,other foams and deodorants; pastes, including toothpaste; liquid-solid mixtures;mascara; any other item of similar consistency.You can still:• pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand luggage;106

• carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including baby foods,for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed;• buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when located beyondthe point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraft operated byan EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag, do not open it before you arescreened – otherwise the contents may be confiscated at the checkpoint. (If you transferat an EU airport, do not open the bag before screening at your airport of transfer,or at the last one if you transfer more than once).• If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance of travel.During the flightSafety informationOur cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off. You willfind instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seat in front of you.Since these procedures differ depending on the type of aircraft, we ask you to readthe instructions carefully before every flight.During take-off and landing you must fasten your seatbelt. For yourown safety and comfort we also recommend that you leave itfastened during the flight. After landing, wait in your seatuntil the aircraft comes to a complete stop or until theseatbelt sign is switched off.The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriatelyon the aircraft with what is called a RED CARD.The red card is intended for anyone whose behaviourobstructs the work of the cabin crew, who does notobserve safety instructions or who threatens the safetyand comfort of passengers. Unacceptable behaviouron board an aircraft is a violation of the law. Placing airtraffic in jeopardy is a criminal offence in accordance withArticle 330 of the Criminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia(KZ-1), carrying with it the penalty of imprisonment.Use of electronic devicesAs a safety precaution the use of electronic devices aboard aircraft is limited. Thesedevices use electricity to function, so they are prone to emitting electromagneticwaves as random signals. Such signals can interfere with the operation of radio,navigational or other systems on the aircraft.The electronic devices that can be used without restriction at any stage of a flightare: small medical devices (heart pacemakers, hearing aids, portable oxygen concentrators,insulin pumps), electronic watches and handheld GPS receivers.There are electronic devices that can be used only at cruising altitude and oncethe “Fasten seat belt” sign has been switched off. These devices include electronicgames (e.g. Game Boy), audio/video players and recorders (e.g. CD, DVD, MP3 players,iPods), cameras, personal computers, smartphones and tablets. These devicesmust have all wireless emitting and receiving functions switched off, so before takeoffyou need to set the device to no connection or flight mode.The electronic devices whose use is strictly prohibited aboard the aircraft arewalkie-talkies, AM/FM radio and television receivers, telemetric equipment, radiocontrolledtoys and wireless computer mice.Acting on behalf of the captain, the cabin crew will give you instructions regardingthe restrictions and prohibitions on the use of electronic devices. Those who deliberatelyviolate safety instructions could face a fine under the Aviation Act.Hazardous itemsUnder international safety regulations air passengers may not transport, eitheron their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardous items suchas flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, highly inflammablematerials, matches (except safety matches), and so on.Comfort and healthFor your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are located above your seat.There is also a button which you can use to call a member of the cabin crew if necessary.The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feel an uncomfortablepressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitude and the air pressure inthe aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relieve the discomfort.In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise you to takefrequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercises for the wholebody while seated.Service during the flightOur friendly staff will also serve you drink while on board the aircraft. Depending onthe class of travel and the destination, you will be offered tasty meals. The newspapersand our outstanding In-Flight Magazine is at your disposal, too.With a thought of each passenger we carefully prepaired a huge sellectionof the so-called special meals which you can order. The reason beingeither medical or religious, a matter or your life style or personalbelief – there is something for each one of you. A variety of specialmeals is to be found on our website, just follow the PassengerGuide tab. However, it is of significant importance to state youwish as soon as you book or purchase your ticket.On charter flights passengers have to payfor alcoholic beverages:• Beer 0,33l3,00 eur• Wine 0,2l4,00 eur• Sparkling Wine 0,25l 5,50 eurAlcohol on boardConsuming alcoholic beverages that you have brought on board theaircraft yourself is not permitted. The cabin crew is not allowed to serve alcoholto passengers who show signs of intoxication or to passengers under 18 years old.Please bear in mind that because of the lower air pressure during flight, alcohol hasa faster and stronger effect than on the ground.After landingDelayed, lost and damaged baggageIf problems occur with your checked baggage during your journey (also appliesto luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate service as soon asyou arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.)Passenger Relations CentreAdria’s Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and informationabout our services and can also offer assistance and advice.Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise is alwayswelcome. You can contact the centre in person, in writing, by e-mail to prc@adria.si, and by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if calling from Slovenia,+386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia.Car hire and hotelsThere is a tab on Adria’s website that enables you to hire a car throughout theworld at favourable rates. Simply visit www.adria.si. Budget offers Adria Airwayscustomers the best car hire deals in more than 3,400 destinations in 128 countries!107

ADRIA airwaysOstale storitve Adrie Airways - Other servicesČarterski prevoziAdria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskimprevoznikom poleg svojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljane invseh drugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Z vstopom v Evropsko unijoponujamo agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudipolete z vseh drugih evropskih letališč. Odlikujejo nas zlasti prilagodljivost,ažurnost, visoka kakovost in točnost poletov.E-pošta: charter@adria.siChartersIn addition to its scheduled services, Adria Airways offers charter flightsfrom Ljubljana and other (mainly European) airports to passengers,agencies, companies and other carriers. Now that Slovenia is part of theEuropean Union, we can also offer flights from all other European airportsto agencies, companies and other carriers. Adria charters offer flexibility,up-to-the-minute services, high quality and punctuality.E-mail: charter@adria.siPrevoz tovoraBlagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostnodo vseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki in s pomočjoračunalniško podprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamo vsakopošiljko od sprejema do predaje naslovniku.Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodo z veseljempomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši in cenovnonajugodnejši poti.ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Ljubljana – Prevoz tovoraTelefon: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Faks + 386 (04) 202 30 30E-pošta: cargo@adria.siCargoThe Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high-quality goods transportto every airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, and with thehelp of a computerised booking system, we monitor every item from receptionto delivery.Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dispatchor deliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route.ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport,Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30,E-mail: jp.cargo@adria.si108

Uradni prevoznik dogodkovKot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, ki se vsepogosteje odvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naproti tistim, kiorganizirajo konference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodne dogodketako, da postanemo njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik, udeležencemter organizatorju pa nudimo posebne ugodnosti. Preprosto, učinkovitoin prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikov poskrbimo za to, da potekadogodek uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo na cilj pravočasno, varno inzanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star Alliance Iahko za večje mednarodnekongrese zagotovimo produkt “Conventions PlusTM”, v sklopu kateregapostane več članov združenja uradni prevoznik dogodka.Za vse nadaljnje informacije smo dosegljivi po elektronski pošti:events@adria.siOfficial events carrierAs a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, whichincreasingly takes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideallypositioned to work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and otherinternational events by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offeringdiscounted fares and other advantages to participants and organisers. Witha simple, efficient approach adapted to the needs of our customers, we makesure that the event runs smoothly, with participants arriving at their destinationon time, safely and reliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer the ConventionsPlus service for major international conferences, which effectivelymakes all Star Alliance members the official carrier for the event.For more information write to us at:events@adria.si.Panoramski poletiLetenje je doživetje. Podarite sebi ali svojim najbljižnjim, prijateljemali znancem nepozabno doživetje. V Adria Airways Letalska Šola d.o.o.so za vas pripravili nekaj najpogostejših in priljubljenih panoramskihpoletov tako po Sloveniji, kot tudi v sosednjih državah. Seveda pa lahkopanoramski let sestavite tudi po lastnem izboru. Da je polet res prijetnodoživetje, je datum letenja v dogovoru s pilotom seveda vedno možnoprilagajati glede na vremenske razmere.Panoramski polet se običajno izvaja iz letališča na Brniku, na dobrih 300metrih višine nad terenom, z enomotornim propelerskim letalom, povprečnehitrosti prbližno 220 km/h. Letenje je možno z enim potnikom(dvosedežno letalo) ali z do tremi potniki (štirisedežno letalo).Več informacij dobite na: www.letileti.siPanoramic FlightsFlying is an adventure. Give the gift of an unforgettable experience to yourselfor your loved ones, friends or acquaintances. Adria Airways Letalska Šola d.o.o.has compiled a selection of the most popular and frequently chosen panoramicflights over Slovenia and the neighbouring countries. Alternatively, you canchoose a panoramic flight tailored to your own wishes. To ensure that the flightis a truly enjoyable and memorable experience, the flight date can be changeddepending on weather conditions by agreement with the pilot.For panoramic flights, we use a single engine propeller plane that usually takesoff from Brnik Airport and flies at an altitude of some 300 m and at an averagespeed of around 220 kmph. Flights can be conducted with one passenger (twoseatplane) or with up to three passengers (four-seat plane).For more information, please visit: www.letileti.si109

ADRIA airwaysStar AllianceStar AlliancePARTNERSTVOAdria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 50-letnimi izkušnjami včarterskem in rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskihtokovih in se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki.Decembra 2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemuglobalnemu združenju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem2010 pa je napredovala v polnopravno članico združenja.Potnikom zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostop dosvetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavis partnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 27letalskih prevoznikov, ki z več kot 21.900 leti dnevno povezujejo 1.329destinacij v 194 državah.Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki, članiStar Alliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanjestatusa, vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj vokviru programov za pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetuso vam na voljo potovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudbaStar Alliancea Round the World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacijsmo vam na voljo na naših prodajnih mestih.Star AlliancePartnershipAdria Airways has more than 50 years of experience in operating bothcharter and scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in theprocess of European integration and have established partnership arrangementswith other air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined Star Alliance,the world’s largest airline alliance, as a regional member and later becamea full member in January 2010.Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide StarAlliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to aglobal network of flights on 27 airlines, which offer more than 21,900flights daily serving 1,329 destinations in 194 countries.Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliancemember carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access,frequent-flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced fares are available fornumerous destinations throughout the world, along with the Star AllianceRound-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details at anyAdria sales outlet.Sprostite se v stilu v največji mreži poslovnihsalonov na svetuBodisi da na letališču Heathrow pravkar z dremežem premagujete utrujenostzaradi časovne razlike, bodisi da se sproščate ob zvokih klavirja na letališču Incheonali pa se želite osvežiti pred sestankom v Los Angelosu – vse to lahkopočnete v enem od ekskluzivnih poslovnih salonov združenja Star Alliance.Z zlatim članstvom v združenju Star Alliance lahko uživate v udobju inugodnostih največje mreže poslovnih salonov na svetu ne glede narazred, v katerem potujete. Kakorkoli potujete – poslovno ali v prostemčasu, vedno imate zagotovljen vstop v več kot 1.000 poslovnih salonovpo vsem svetu. In bodite brez skrbi: ob vašem zlatem statusu je v poslovnemsalonu dobrodošel tudi vaš sopotnik.V poslovnem salonu vam je na voljo pester izbor pijač ter različni topli inhladni prigrizki. Med čakanjem lahko spremljate zadnje novice iz sveta alitelevizijske prenose športnih dogodkov, za branje pa imate tudi široko izbiročasopisov in revij. V mnogih poslovnih salonih so opremljena poslovnasredišča z brezplačnim brezžičnim omrežjem, in če želite v zasebnostiopraviti konferenčni klic ali poslovno srečanje, si svoj prostor lahko ževnaprej rezervirate (odvisno od razpoložljivosti kapacitet).Če želite o največji mreži poslovnih salonov in ostalih ugodnostih zlategačlanstva Star Alliance izvedeti še več, obiščite www.staralliance.com.To si zaslužite.Relax in style in the world’s largest lounge networkWhether you’re catching up on jet lag with a nap at Heathrow, relaxing tothe sounds of the grand piano in Incheon, or freshening up before your nextmeeting in Los Angeles. The Star Alliance lounge network provides an exclusiveenvironment in which to do so.With Star Alliance Gold Status, you can enjoy the comfort and benefits of theworld’s largest lounge network, regardless of the class you travel in. Whetherit’s for business or pleasure, you have access to over 1000 lounges worldwide.And don’t worry if you’re travelling with a guest, with Star Alliance GoldStatus you can invite them to join you.Here you can enjoy a range of complimentary beverages and a variety of hotand cold snacks. There are televisions showing international news and sportschannels, plus a wide selection of newspapers and magazines.Many of the lounges provide a fully equipped business center with complimentaryWi-Fi, and if you require privacy for a conference call or a meeting,you can book an office in advance (subject to availability).To find out more about the largest lounge network, and other benefits of StarAlliance Gold Status, visit www.staralliance.com.You’ve earned it.110

miles & moreDobrodošli v Miles & MoreRazlog več, da poletitez Adrio AirwaysAdria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jims tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletovčlanic zveze Star Alliance. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.PrijavaPrijavite se lahko s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestih in vletalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria.si na našihspletnih straneh.Zbiranje miljMilje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic zveze Star Alliance. Dodatnemilje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, najemom vozil, telefoniranjem,nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic.Podroben seznam vseh partnerjev, ki vas nagrajujejo v okviru Miles & Moreprograma, najdete na www.miles-and-more.com v rubriki »Earn miles«.Zbrane milje so veljavne tri leta.Koriščenje miljZbrane milje lahko porabite za številne nagrade: nagradne vozovnice naprogah članic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniška potovanjaali za nakup različnih artiklov.Članske karticeZ včlanitvijo postanete član programa in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženoštevilo zahtevanih statusnih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višjenivoje članstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senatorin HON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti.Te so prednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage, vstop vposlovne salone idr. Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo zabeleženje milj, uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad. Splošna pravila inpogoji programa Miles & More so objavljeni na www.miles-and-more.com.RegistrationYou can join the programme by filling in the registration form available at allsales offices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering online at ourwebsite, www.adria.si.Earning milesYou can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can also collectadditional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls, purchases atselected shops and using your credit cards. The complete list of all Miles & Morepartners can be found on www.miles-and-more.com in »Earn miles« section.Spending milesYou can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: award ticketson Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday travel andvarious purchases.Membership cardsYou become a member as soon as you join. Accumulating the required numberof status miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership: silvermember or Frequent Traveller, gold member or Senator and HON Circle Member.A higher level of membership offers you special benefits, such as priorityon waiting lists, excess baggage allowance, airport lounge access and so on.Miles are valid for three years. Always have your membership card on hand,because you’ll need it to register miles, claim benefits and request awards.General Terms and Conditions of the Miles & More programme can be foundon www.miles-and-more.com.Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member!For information on miles, latest news about programme and to order awardtickets or other benefits, call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440.You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN code. We’ll be happy totake your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm. Service is also available in Englishand German outside these hours.Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance!V klicnem centru Miles & More na tel. št. (0)40 747 440 smo vam na voljoza posredovanje informacije o zbranih miljah, o novostih v klubu in zanaročila nagradnih vozovnic ter drugih nagrad. Navesti morate članskoštevilko in PIN kodo. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacijena voljo v slovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.wELCOME TO Miles & MoreOne more reason forflying Adria AirwaysAdria Airways offers its frequent flyers the chance to join the Miles & Moreprogramme, which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles onthe entire flight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduledservices are included in this network.111

ADRIA airwaysProdaja vozovnic in rezervacije - Ticket Offices and BookingAdria AirwaysZgornji Brnik 130h4210 Brnik - AerodromKlicni center / call centre:tel: +386 (0)1 36 91 010, 080 13 00, FAX: +386 (0)4 25 94 573E-mail: booking@adria.siPoslovalnice / Sales Offices:Letališče Jožeta PučnikaLJUBLJANALJUBLJANA Jože PučnikAirportAdria Airways Sales OfficeTel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.siAMSTERDAMAdria AirwaysAirport Ticketing DeskAmsterdam Schiphol AirportAviapartnerTerminal 2Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600Fax: +31 20 79 52 601E-mail: adr.amsairport@adria.siBELGRADEAdria Airways, General Sales AgentOKI AIR INTERNATIONALAirport “Nikola Tesla”11180 Belgrade 59Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457,2286458, 2097457E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me,adr.belgrade@adria.siBRUSSELSAdria AirwaysBrussels Airport – Box 41930 ZaventemTel.: +32 (0)2 27 20 7955Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.siAdria Airways Ticket DeskFlightcare row 5Airport Zaventem / BrusselsTel.: +32 (0)2 27 20 7955COPENHAGENAdria Airways, General Sales AgentA CVITAN ABTings Gatan 2256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDENTel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.sia.cvitan@adria-airways.sevozovnice: info@adria-airways.dkAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskCopenhagen AirportTerminal 2, Floor 2, Office 2302770 Kastrup, DenmarkTel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.siFRANKFURTAdria AirwaysFrankfurt AirportTerminal 1, Building 201Room 201. 4043/4044P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt amMainTel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskFrankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall BSales Desk 307P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt amMainTel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722ISTANBULAdria Airways, General Sales AgentACMHalaskargazi Mah.Valikonağı Cad. No: 534371,NişantaşıIstanbul / TURKEYTel.: +90 212 232 01 10Fax: +90 212 232 01 44Mobi: +90 532 283 79 08Email: salesagent.ist@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskAtatürk International Airport,Departure Level, IDL 38129 Yesilkoy– Istanbul / TURKEYTel: +90 212 465 55 15Fax: +90 212 465 55 16Mob: +90 0530 938 43 20E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.siMOSCOWAdria AirwaysDerbenevskaja 4115 114 MoscowTel.: +7 495 727 08 85, 727 08 87Fax: +7 495 727 08 88E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.siAdria AirwaysSheremetyevo AirportTicket office Bohemia2nd floor of terminal FTicketing +7 903 5613645,e-mail: apt-svo@mail.ru,fax +7 495 578 8197Supervisor on duty +7 916 267 2395,e-mail: svokkjp@adria.siMUNICHProsimo, obrnite se napredstavništvo v Frankfurtu.Please contact our office inFrankfurt.PODGORICAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentOki Air MontenegroIvana Vujoševića 4681000 PodgoricaTel. & Fax: +382 20 201 201, 201 202,241 154Mobil: +382 67 24 11 54E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si,okiair@oki.meAdria Airways Ticket OfficePodgorica AirportOKI AIR MontenegroTel. & Fax: +382 20 653074Mobil: +382 67 24 11 54E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.siPRISTINAAdria AirwaysRr. Qamil Hoxha nr.12Tel: +381 38 246746Fax: +381 38 246 747Mob: + 377 44 165 084E-mail : adr.pristina@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskTel.: +381 (0) 38 548 437Fax: +381 (0) 38 548 437Mobile: +377 44 501 241SARAJEVOAdria Airways,General Sales AgentFerhadija 2371000 SarajevoTel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskSarajevo International AirportTel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331SKOPJEAdria Airways, General Sales AgentAAM dooelUlica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid,blok 4/81000 SkopjeTel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket OfficeSkopje AirportTel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133TEL AVIVAdria Airways, General Sales AgentMIRUS SERVICES LtdEL AL BUILDING32 Ben Yehuda Street8th Floor, Room 822Tel Aviv 63432Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895Adria Airways Ticket DeskBen Gurion AirportLaufer Aviation Ltd.Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022TIRANAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentEuropian Trade CenterStreet Bajram Curi 19Town OfficeTel.: +355 4 227 4666Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614AirportTel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 694076611E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.siVERONAAdria Airways, Ticketing OfficeAIRPORT VALERIO CATULLOVERONADeparture AreaTel.: +390 45 8619 006Fax.: +390 45 8095 711e-mail: ticket@aeroportoverona.itVIENNAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentFlight DirectorsLufttransportvermittlungAuhofstraße 67, 1130 WienTel.: +43 (1) 879 8705Fax: +43 (1) 876 0453 11E-mail: barbara.lintner@adria.siblintner@flightdirectors.atZÜRICHAdria AirwaysLoewenstrasse 54/II.8001 ZürichTel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket OfficeZürich AirportTerminal B-2-521Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437112