Northern California Bouldering - SuperTopo

NorthernCaliforniaBoulderingThe Best 50 AreasbyChris SummitKevin SwiftChris McNamara

Northern California Overview Map101101199CrescentCityOregon59715049ArcataEureka101Leggett4443Ukiah42414046Pacific Ocean29947Willits20SantaRosa39San Francisco37381484529333435 36 StocktonOakland58080WilliamsNapaSan Jose101ReddingRedBluff5303231Weed992993654489Mt. 29Lassen28Chico203250Sacramento99OrovilleYubaCityAuburnLodiBurney125244Mt. Shasta27261209944188Sonora140139QuincyTruckee22 2019 17218018162314 15Placerville 12 13104395Susanville11AlturasReno3959 85 436 721YosemiteB108 395NevadaLake TahoeCarson CityA80ABSee the book “Yosemite Valley Bouldering: SuperTopos” by Matt WilderSee the book “Tuolumne Meadows Bouldering: SuperTopos” by Chris Summit2N O R T H E R N C A L I F O R N I A B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S

ContentsIntroduction 7Gas/Food-Gear/Gyms-Camp/Lodge 8History 14Sonora Pass/East Side1. Columbia College 162. Columbia State Park 203. Pump Rocks 224. Donnell Vista 245. Chipmunk Flat 266. Sonora Pass Boulders 287. Switchback Boulders 308. 395 Boulder 33Central Sierra/Tahoe9. Bear Valley-Hell’s Kitchen 3410. Kirkwood 4011. Momma Cat Boulder 4312. The Secrets 4413. Lover’s Leap 5114. Flagpole Peak 5615. Pie Shop 6016. Bliss 6417. Old County 7218. Castle Boulder 7719. Donner - Split Rock 8020. Donner-Grouse Slabs 8221. Donner-The Saddle 8822. Rainbow 9323. Loon Lake 9524. The Bar 102North East/Central Valley25. Rocklin 10426. Bald Rock 11027. Feather River 11328. Lassen, Eagle Peak 11529. Lassen, Devastated Area 11930. Castle Lake 12131. Vacaville 12332. Putah Creek 130Bay Area/Wine Country33. Berkeley-Indian Rock 13434. Berkeley-Mortar Rock 14035. Berkeley-Remiliard Park 14236. Berkeley-Grizzly Peak 14337. Glen Canyon 14438. Castle Rock 14839. Ring Mountain 16240. Mickey’s Beach 16641. Stinson Beach 17442. Goat Rock 17843. Fort Ross 18744. Salt Point 19245. Clear Lake 19846. Squaw Rock 20247. Dos Rios 20448. The Falls 210North Coast49. Moonstone Beach 21650. Houda Point 218Appendix20 bonus areas 220100 suggested classics 222About the author 2233F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

WarningClimbing is an inherently dangerous sport in which severe injuries or death mayoccur. Relying on the information in this book may increase the danger.When climbing you can only rely on your skill, training, experience, and conditioning.If you have any doubts as to your ability to safely climb any route in this guide, donot try it.This book is neither a professional climbing instructor nor a substitute for one. Itis not an instructional book. Do not use it as one. It contains information thatis nothing more than a compilation of opinions about bouldering in NorthernCalifornia. These opinions are neither facts nor promises. Treat the information asopinions and nothing more. Do not substitute these opinions for your own commonsense and experience.Assumption of RiskThere may be errors in this book resulting from the mistake of the authors and/orthe people with whom they consulted. The information was gathered from a varietyof sources, which may not have been independently verified. Those who provided theinformation may have made mistakes in their descriptions. The authors may havemade mistakes in their conveyance of the information in this book. The authorscannot, therefore, guarantee the correctness of any of the information containedin this book. The topographical maps, photo-diagrams, difficulty ratings, protectionratings, approach and/or descent information, suggestions about equipment, andother matters may be incorrect or misleading. Fixed protection may be absent,unreliable, or misplaced. You must keep in mind that the information in this bookmay be erroneous, so use your own judgement when choosing, approaching,climbing, or descending from a route described in this book.DO NOT USE THIS BOOK UNLESS YOU [AND YOUR ESTATE] PROMISE NEVER TO TRY TO SUEUS IF YOU GET HURT OR KILLED.Disclaimer of WarrantiesTHE AUTHORS AND PUBLISHER WARN THAT THIS BOOK CONTAINS ONLY THE AUTHORS’OPINIONS ON THE SUBJECTS DISCUSSED. THEY MAKE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESSEDOR IMPLIED, OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR PURPOSE, OR OTHERWISE, AND IN ANYEVENT, THEIR LIABILITY FOR BREACH OF ANY WARRANTY OR CONTRACT WITH RESPECTTO THE CONTENT OF THIS BOOK IS LIMITED TO THE PURCHASE PRICE OF THE BOOK. THEYFURTHER LIMIT TO SUCH PURCHASE PRICE THEIR LIABILITY ON ACCOUNT OF ANY KIND OFNEGLIGENT BEHAVIOR WHATSOEVER ON THEIR PART WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENTS OFTHIS BOOK.4N O R T H E R N C A L I F O R N I A B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S

AcknowledgementsSpecial thanks to these people for theirhelp making the book:Jeanie Anderson-Saludes, Bony Saludes,Valentine Cullen (imagealteration.com)and her beautiful and smart daughterHolly Anne Grinnell, Chris McNamara(supertopo.com), Victor Copeland (up todate Rocklin/Tahoe beta) Richie Esquibel,Charlie Barrett, Marcos Nunez, JordyMorgan, Sean Brady, Kenny Ariza, JerryDodrill (jerrydodrill.com), Ryan Smith,Kevin Jorgeson (kevinjorgeson.com),Tom Slater (slatervision.com), AaronJohnson (mtadventure.com) Jesse Bonin,Bruce Morris (morcommpress.com),Rob Behrens (sonorapassclimbing.com)Randy Spurrier, David Safanda (safanda.com), Steve McNamara, Joe Puryear(cascadeimages.com).Special thanks to these climbers for theirfirst ascents (in no particular order):Russ BobzienCharlie BarrettVictor CopelandDave NunleyMarcos NunezRichie EsquibelRandy PuroSean BradyTim MedinaBen PopeKevin JorgesonTravis KlawinJesse BoninNoah KaufmanChris SharmaChris McNamaraKevin SwiftMark NicholasJohn ShermanBonnie HedlundKenny ArizaCharlie BarrettRyan SmithRyan TolentinoSteve FrancisHiko ItoMike PapciakJim ThornburgGreg LohDave HatchettMike HatchettDave WallachAndrew WallachPaul CrawfordPaul BarrazaScott FryeJay SellJordy MorganFrankie OcasioTom HerbertDustin SaboAaron RoughMark HoweMike EadingtonFrank Lucidoand anyone else who did first ascents inNor Cal. If I left someone out please let meknow for the next edition.- Chris SummitBook CreditsWritten by Chris Summit, Kevin Swift,Chris McNamara, Victor CopelandPhotos by Chris Summit (unlessotherwise noted)Edited by Steve McNamara,Chris McNamaraLayout by Chris McNamaraOverview Map by Joseph PuryearCover Photo: Kevin Jorgeson does the1st boulder ascent of Stony White BootsJohnson, Salt Point. Photo by Jerry DodrillBack Cover Photo: Posemaster General onBunny Arête, Bald Rock.Cover Design by David Safanda DesignSolutions. www.safanda.com5F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

IntroductionBy Chris SummitAAs a proud Northern California nativeI am a bit partial to my local stone so Iwill try not to go on and on about howindescribably wonderful I think it is –rather I will just state the facts. For starters,we’ve got the rugged and wild PacificCoastline that stretches the entire lengthof Nor Cal. Starting just a few miles northof the Golden Gate Bridge, you will firstcome to a variety of different rock typeson sandy beaches at Mickey’s and StinsonBeaches in Marin County. Traveling furthernorth, you find the solid schist aroundJenner. Just north of Jenner, where the SanAndreas Fault Line crosses the Pacific CoastHighway, the variety of rock type stopsand only sandstone is found all the way upinto the central Mendocino Coast. Two ofthe best of these sandstone areas are thepopular Fort Ross and the vast Salt Pointwith its endless miles of Tafoni sandstone.The rock type changes back to a randommix near the mysterious Lost Coast innorthern Mendocino County, not to beconfused with the far north Lost Rocks,which will both remain lost. Between theLost Coast and the Lost Rocks are the rockybeaches of Humboldt County, where youfind a tantalizing mix of green, grey, andblack boulders at Moonstone Beach andHouda Point near Arcata. Here is a quotefrom an old geology book: “The rocks onthe Pacific Coastline of Northern Californiaare some of the most bizarre and uniquein the world.” That pretty much says it. Youcan boulder on polished green and blueschist rocks with sharp crimpers at GoatRock State Park near Jenner, for example,and then just a short and scenic 30-minutedrive north up the Pacific Coast HighwayJohn Sherman flashes Pelican Arête (V0R), Goat Rock.and you’ll get to pull down on the grittytextured,pocketed sandstone at Salt PointState Park. That’s just the coast.We have some of the freshest climbablerock in the world up in the northeasterncorner of the state at Mt. Lassen NationalPark. A lot of the bouldering in the parkis on rocks formed in the 1915 eruption,which geologically speaking is like a blinkof an eye. Sulfur steam vents and mudpots boil on this active volcano. Thenearby Lava Tubes also offer some uniquevolcanic scenery as well as some boulderingpotential. Coming down the Central Valleyfrom the north you’ll first come to the lowelevation granite found around Chico atareas like the Feather River Boulders andjust south the granite patina blocks onthe ridgetops at Bald Rock. Going westfrom the Central Valley you will come toa small, newly-developed volcanic areanear Mt. Konocti at Clear Lake called theBlack Forest, which fills the void of publiclyaccessible bouldering in the Lake Countyarea. These are all just a few of the underappreciated, new/old areas covered in thebook–the others are mostly well-known,well-established areas you might alreadyknow and love. The best of Tahoe and theBay Area are included to make a completecollection of Nor Cal’s best. South ofTahoe are a few more new/old areas likethe boulders at Hell’s Kitchen near BearValley, where every summer one of the onlyoutdoor bouldering competitions in thestate is held. Last, but definitely not least, areall the boulders in the far southeast cornerof Nor Cal just to the north of Yosemite.These areas make up the first section of thebook and they are found in and aroundthe Sonora area. One of the best in thisarea and one of my personal favorites is theimpeccable blue, grey, and gold limestonein Columbia. The other gems of the Sonoraarea are the steep, featured granite of PumpRock and the clean white granite blocks atChipmunk Flat near Sonora Pass. With thebest problems on the best boulders in oneof the best places in the world you just can’tgo wrong. Northern California Boulderingis hella good!7F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

Gas/Food, Gear/Gyms, Camp/LodgeCharlie Padilla working the Cellar Door (V6), Colombia College.Photo: Anthony Lapomardo.SuperTopo.comThe info below is available at supertopo.comwith links directly to the sources for easiertrip planning.Sonora Area1. Columbia College, 2. Columbia StateParkGAS/FOOD: Downtown Columbia has gas/food. Sonora is just a few miles away to thesouth on CA-49 or Angels Camp is just afew miles north on CA-49 and both havegas/food.GEAR/GYMS: Get gear at Sierra NevadaAdventure Company (209-532-5621) andIndoor climbing is nearby at Class 5 Fitness(209-532-5556).CAMPING/LODGING: Columbia hascamping at the 49er RV Park (209-532-4978) and lodging at City Hotel/FallonI N T R O D U C T I O NHotel (209-532-1479) in downtownColumbia or at the Columbia Gem Motel(209-532-4508). Sonora and Jamestownsouth to the south on CA-49 along CA-108have camping/lodging and so does AngelsCamp north on CA-49.Sonora Pass3. Pump Rocks, 4. Donnell Vista,5. Chipmunk Flat, 6. Sonora Pass Boulders,7. Switchback BouldersGAS/FOOD: The nearest gas and food areon CA-108 at Strawberry or the Dardanellesor to the east on CA-395 north or south ofthe CA-108 intersection.GEAR/GYMS: Sonora area climbing gear/outdoor gear: Sierra Nevada AdventureCompany (209-532-5621) and Indoorclimbing is nearby at Class 5 Fitness (209-532-5556).CAMPING/LODGING: Camping at theboulders may not be legal. There are manyexcellent campgrounds in the area just tothe east or west on CA-108. Eagle MeadowsCampground is nice. The nearest lodgingwest on CA-108 is at the Strawberry Innin Strawberry or along CA-108 on the wayback to Sonora. Camp or lodge on CA-108at the Dardanelles or on CA-395 near theCA-108 intersection.East Side8. 395 BoulderGAS/FOOD: To the north Walker is onlya few minutes drive on CA-395 and to thesouth Bridgeport on CA-395 is only about20 minutes away. Both have gas and food.GEAR/GYMS: The nearest climbing/outdoor gear retailer is Sporting Rage (775-885-7773) in Carson City about a half anhour drive North and the nearest climbinggym is Rocksport (775-352-7673) about onehour north in Reno.CAMPING/LODGING: The most popularcampground in the area is just north onCA-395 at Topaz Lake Park (775-266-3343).Lodging is on CA-395 near Walker/Colevilleat Meadowcliff Resort (888-333-8132).8N O R T H E R N C A L I F O R N I A B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S

Gas/Food, Gear/Gyms, Camp/LodgeCentral Sierra9. Bear Valley - Hell’s KitchenGAS/FOOD: Bear Valley has a general storewith gas and food.GEAR/GYMS: Mountain AdventureSeminars (209-753-6556) carries theessentials in Bear Valley. Modesto has a gearshop and indoor climbing at Stonehenge(209-521-3644).CAMPING/LODGING: From Hell’sKitchen/Spicer Reservoir Rd the nearestcamping is at Big Meadow Campgroundabout 1.7 miles west on CA-4 and onlyabout 0.2 miles east of the Big MeadowPicnic Area Boulders. To the east of Hell’sKitchen it is about 3.7 miles to Bear Valley,which has lodging and camping. Just a fewmiles further east of Bear Valley on CA-4 isLake Alpine, which also has great camping,fishing and sight-seeing.Tahoe10. Momma Cat Boulder,11. The Secrets,12. Lover’s Leap, 13. Flagpole Peak, 14. PieShop, 16. Bliss State Park, 17. Old County,18. Castle Boulder, 19. Split Rock, 20.Grouse Slabs, 21. The Saddle, 22. RainbowGAS/FOOD: gas, food and supplies are inTruckee, all around the north shore of LakeTahoe or in South Lake Tahoe. Try SproutsCafé (530-541-6969).GEAR/GYMS: For outdoor/climbing gearand an indoor bouldering gym go to SportsExchange in Truckee (530-582-4510) orHigh Altitude Fitness in Incline Village, NV(775-831-4212). Get gear in Tahoe City atAlpenglow Sports (530-583-6917) and TheBack Country (530-582-0909). In SouthLake Tahoe, visit Sports LTD (530-542-4000).CAMPING/LODGING: Free camping isavailable at Secrets and Castle Boulder orpay camping at Lover’s Leap or in Truckee atDonner Memorial Park (Split Rock Bouldersare inside the campground!) or at BlissState Park (bouldering!) or at Fallen LeafLake just south of Bliss State Park. There isplenty of lodging is all around Lake Tahoeespecially near the Stateline at South Lake orgo to rentsouthlake.com.I N T R O D U C T I O NCentral Sierra/Central Valley East23. Loon Lake, 24. The Bar, 25. RocklinGAS/FOOD: gas/food are in downtownAuburn, Placerville or Rocklin just off ofI-80.GEAR/GYMS: Get gear at REI Roseville(916-724-6750). The nearest climbing gymsare: Granite Arch in Rancho Cordova (916-852-7625) and Pipeworks in Sacramento(916-341-0100) and Rocknasium in Davis(530-757-2902).CAMPING/LODGING: Auburn KOA isjust a few miles north of downtown Auburn(530-885-0990) and Folsom Lake RecreationArea (916-988-0205) is also nearbyboth areas. Black Oak Stumpy MeadowsCampground is south on CA-49 from TheBar about 15 miles from Cool on CA-193in Georgetown (881-333-4312). Auburnand Rocklin both have ample lodging justminutes from the rocks.North East – Chico Area26. Bald Rock, 27. Feather RiverGAS/FOOD: Quincy is found to the eastand has gas and food and on the corner ofCaribou Rd alongside the Feather River isa small seasonal store with cold drinks andfood. To the west are Oroville and Chico -both have plenty of gas, grocery stores, andrestaurants.GEAR/GYMS: Mountain Sports in Chico(530-345-5011) for climbing/outdoor gear.CAMPING/LODGING: Nice campgroundsare found along Caribou Rd just off CA-70a few miles east of the Feather Riverbouldering areas. Free Camping is availableat Bald Rock unless otherwise posted.Lodging is available in Chico and Oroville tothe west and Quincy to the east.North East – Lassen Area28. Eagle Peak, 29. Devastated AreaGAS/FOOD: Just west of the South Gateentrance to the park on CA-36 is the smalltown of Mineral with gas and food. Just westof the North Gate entrance to the park onCA-44 is Viola with gas and food.GEAR/GYMS: For climbing/outdoor geargo to Hermits Hut in Redding (530-222-4511) or The Fifth Season (530-926-3606)in Shasta City.9F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

Gas/Food, Gear/Gyms, Camp/LodgeCAMPING/LODGING: Backcountrycamping is allowed in the park (wildernesspermits are required). Call ParkHeadquarters to get one in advance (530-595-4444) or stop by a ranger/entrancestation. Many good campgrounds are allover the park and are usually open fromJune to September. Call Park Headquartersfor more info. For lodging outside ofthe park on the north side Viola andShingletown are the closest towns withlodging and on the south side Chester nearLake Almanor on CA-36/CA-89 has lodging:Cedar Lodge Motel/RV Park (530-258-2904)North/Central Sierra30. Castle LakeGAS/FOOD: About 10 miles awayShasta City has many gas stations, stores,restaurants and fast food.GEAR/GYMS: For climbing gear go toHermits Hut in Redding (530-222-4511).CAMPING/LODGING: Forest Servicecampgrounds are about a half mile downthe road from Castle Lake with PortableRestrooms but NO DRINKING WATER(530-926-4511) Camping is also availableat nearby Lake Siskiyou and lodging in Mt.Shasta City off I-5.Central Valley West31. Vacaville, 32. Putah CreekGAS/FOOD: Vacaville has gas, foodand shopping malls right off I-80 only afew miles from the Vacaville Open Spacebouldering areas and Winters has gas andfood just minutes from Putah Creek at theCA-128/I-505 intersection.GEAR/GYMS: The nearest climbing gear/indoor gym is at Rocknasium in Davis.CAMPING/LODGING: Lake Berryessa hasseven private resorts that have camping.Most of the resorts are on the west andsouth shores off CA-128 or Knoxville Rdonly a few miles from the Vacaville andPutah Creek bouldering areas. Napa has agood campground: Skyline Wilderness Parkon 2201 Imola Ave which is about 15 mileswest of Lake Berryessa and the Putah Creekbouldering area (707-252-0481). A fairamount of lodging is in Vacaville off of I-80or in Napa off CA-29.I N T R O D U C T I O NBerkeley33. Indian Rock, 34. Mortar Rock,35. Remiliard Park, 36. Grizzly PeakGAS/FOOD: Oakland/Emeryville/Berkeleyall have an ample supply of gas, food andshopping. Try the eclectic mix of foodvendors at the Emeryville Public Market5959 Shellmound St. off I-80/I-580/I-880in Emeryville south of Berkeley and northof Oakland take the Powell St exit east toShellmound St. Enjoy an assortment of foodand shops on the busy Telegraph Ave indowntown Bezerkly: take Ashby Ave a fewmiles east of I-80.GEAR/GYMS: Get gear at REI, Marmot, orWilderness Exchange. The largest indoorclimbing gym in the Bay Area is BerkeleyIronworks (510-981-9900). There is also agym in Oakland called Great Western Power(510-452-2022)CAMPING/LODGING: Southeast ofOakland and Berkeley camping is availableat Lake Chabot in Anthony Chabot RegionalPark. Call in advance: (510-562-2267)Camping is available in the hills betweenOakland and San Jose at Sunol RegionalWilderness near Pleasanton. Enjoy a shorthike and some fine basalt cragging at IndianJoe Caves on Indian Joe Creek Trail insidethe park. Call in advance (510-562-2267)South of Berkeley and the Bay Bridge is thelargest city in the East Bay, Oakland and itsneighboring city Emeryville, both have awide variety of lodging. Try Hegenberger Rdoff I-880 near the Oakland Airport for thelargest selection.South Bay - San Francisco37. Castle Rock, 38. Glen CanyonGAS/FOOD: San Francisco’s Chinatown isone of the largest outside of Asia and offersmany choices for fine food. Try the R&GLounge (415-982-7877). gas, supplies andfine food, you name it and San Jose hasit all within an hour drive of some of thebest bouldering in the Bay Area at nearbyCastle Rock. For great beer and food atreasonable prices, enjoy Gordon BierschBrewing Company on 33 E. San FernandoSt. (downtown).GEAR/GYMS: In San Francisco, Mission10N O R T H E R N C A L I F O R N I A B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S

Gas/Food, Gear/Gyms, Camp/LodgeCliffs (415-550-0515) and Planet Granite(415-692-3434) have indoor climbingand gear or for more supplies go REI SanFrancisco.CAMPING/LODGING: Camp at BigBasin Redwoods State Park (the First StatePark in California). It is 25 miles north ofSanta Cruz and about 65 miles south ofSan Francisco on CA-236 near the town ofBoulder Creek and just a short drive fromthe Castle Rock bouldering area. Call (800-444-PARK). World class lodging to fit mostbudget is all around San Francisco.North Bay39. Ring Mountain, 40. Mickey’s Beach, 41.Stinson BeachGAS/FOOD: San Rafael has gas, rock gearand a lot of great places to eat a couple ofwhich are: Brooklyn Pizza at 900 AndersenDrive and High Tech Burrito at 484 LasGallinas or 2042 Fourth St..GEAR/GYMS: Just off US-101 in CorteMadera (south of San Rafael) is an REI.Take the same Paradise Dr/Tamalpais Driveexit as for Ring Mountain but go to theshopping center on the west side of US-101off Tamalpais Dr. The closest gym is PlanetGranite in San Francisco.I N T R O D U C T I O NCAMPING/LODGING: Sugarloaf RidgeState Park off CA-12 just west of Kenwoodand east of US-101 in Santa Rosa has goodboulders within walking distance of thecampground. Take Adobe Canyon Rd fromCA-12 for a few miles to the park entranceand campground just past the boulderingareas. Call (800-444-PARK). Marin hascamping available at Mount TamalpaisState Park (near bouldering areas), SamuelP. Taylor State Park (15 minutes westof US-101 on Sir Francis Drake Blvd)and Point Reyes National Seashore. Forreservations at Mount Tamalpais or SamuelP. Taylor contact Reserve America or forinformation about camping at Point ReyesCall (415-663-8054). North of San Franciscooff US-101, Marin County’s oldest, SanRafael has a wide variety of lodging most ofwhich is off US-101. In the heart of NapaCounty’s Wine Country just north of I-80and Vallejo is the thriving city of Napa anda variety of lodging. On US-101 about onehour north of San Francisco in the heartof Sonoma County’s Wine Country is thebooming city of Santa Rosa (mi casa) and awide variety of lodging.Arch Rock, Winter Solstice. Photo Jerry Dodrill.com.

Gas/Food, Gear/Gyms, Camp/LodgeWine Country (Sonoma Coast)42. Goat Rock, 43. Fort Ross, 44. Salt PointGAS/FOOD: A gas station/mini mart/deliis the main stop in Jenner. The excellentRivers End restaurant offers fine food,wine and sunsets. The Sizzling Tandooron the corner of Willow Creek Rd (theroad to Pomo Canyon Campground andbouldering area) and CA-1 just south ofJenner also has good food and good views.Less than 10 miles south of the Jennerclimbing areas is the quiet fishing villageand beach getaway of Bodega Bay. Get gas,beer, food and supplies at Diekman’s Storeon CA-1 and enjoy the catch of the daywith great bay views at The Tides Wharfand Restaurant (seen in Alfred Hitchcock’sclassic “The Birds”). Guerneville (east ofJenner) has gas, a 24-hour Safeway and thetasty Andornos Pizza (16205 First St.).GEAR/GYMS: The nearest climbing gearis at REI (707-540-9025) and SonomaOutfitters (707-528-1920) in Santa Rosaand the nearest indoor climbing gym isVertex in Santa Rosa (707-573-1608)CAMPING/LODGING: Just a couplemiles north of the Fort Ross boulderingarea and about 16 miles north of Jenneron CA-1 is Stillwater Cove Campground.Call (707-847-3245). A few miles north ofFort Ross and Stillwater Cove and about20 miles north of Jenner on CA-1 are theamazing Salt Point State Park and Salt Pointbouldering areas. Camping is available atGerstle Cove Campground and WoodsideCampground. CALL (707-847-3221). PomoCanyon Campground is off CA-1 justsouth of Jenner and CA-116 and just northof Goat Rock State Park in Bridgehaven.Take Willow Creek Rd east from CA-1 forabout 2.5 miles to the right turn onto thedirt road that leads to the campground.CLOSED IN WINTER Less than 10 milessouth of the Jenner climbing areas isBodega Bay and a variety of lodging.Clear LakeGAS/FOOD: A gas station mini-mart ison the corner of CA-29 and CA-281 andanother is about halfway from CA-29 toKonocti Harbor on CA-281. Soda Bay isabout 2.5 miles northwest and has a generalI N T R O D U C T I O Nstore, dining and a harbor. Lower Lake,Lakeport and Kelseyville also have an amplesupply of food and gas to choose from.GEAR/GYMS: The nearest climbing gearis at REI (707-540-9025) and SonomaOutfitters (707-528-1920) in Santa Rosaand the nearest indoor climbing gym isVertex in Santa Rosa (707-573-1608).CAMPING/LODGING: Clear Lake StatePark Campground (800-444-7275) isbetween Kelseyville and Soda Bay aboutfour miles northwest of The Black Forest.Open all year. www.parks.ca.gov KonoctiHarbor Resort (800-660-LAKE) is 1.5 milesfrom the Black Forest and has year roundconcerts, shows, fine dining, a marinaand inn and spa all on the shores of thegorgeous Clear Lake.Wine Country (Mendocino County)46. Squaw Rock, 47. Dos Rios, 48. The FallsGAS/FOOD: Willits (US-101 south) orLaytonville (US-101 north) are the largesttowns near Dos Rios and The Falls with24-hour gas and food. Covelo also has asmall gas/food store. The nearest gas/foodto Squaw Rock is Hopland (US-101 north)or Cloverdale (US-101 south).GEAR/GYMS: The nearest climbing gearretailers to the south are REI (707-540-9025) and Sonoma Outfitters (707-528-1920) in Santa Rosa and the nearest indoorclimbing gym is Vertex in Santa Rosa(707-573-1608). The nearest climbinggear retailers to the north are NorthernMountain Supply (800-878-3583) in Eurekaand Adventures Edge in Arcata (707-822-4673) and the only gym to the north is FarNorth Climbing Gym in Arcata (707-826-9558).CAMPING/LODGING: Camping at therocks in Dos Rios is usually okay. The Fallshas free camping but requires a mellow15 minute downhill hike on a good trail.Free camping can also be found off the dirtroads in the Mendocino National Forest allaround The Falls. Willits and Laytonville(about 30 minutes north or south onUS-101) are the closest towns with lodgingat several hotels and motels found alongUS-101. DO NOT CAMP AT SQUAWROCK – IT IS ILLEGAL.12N O R T H E R N C A L I F O R N I A B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S

Gas/Food, Gear/Gyms, Camp/LodgeI N T R O D U C T I O NNorth Coast49. Moonstone, 50. Houda Point.GAS/FOOD: The Eureka/Arcata area isjust a few miles south on US-101 andhas plenty of gas stations, grocery stores,and restaurants.GEAR/GYMS: Adventures Edge inArcata (707-822-4673) has climbing/outdoor gear as does NorthernMountain Supply in Eureka (800-878-3583). The local gym is Far NorthClimbing Gym in Arcata (707-826-9558). Local guiding through NorthCoast Adventure Centers: www.northcoastadventurecenters.comCAMPING/LODGING: Camp atPatricks Point State Park (which hasrocks with climbing and bouldering)about 15 miles north on US-101.Eureka/Arcata is just a few miles southon US-101 and offers plenty of lodgingfrom cheap to spendy.Bouldering Ratings ComparedHuecoY.D.S Font PVB 5.0-5.8

I N T R O D U C T I O NHistoryThe History of bouldering in NorthernCalifornia begins with your definitionof the word bouldering. If boulderingis any scrambling or easy climbing onsmall boulders or cliffs, then it probablystarted with Native Americans long ago.If you define bouldering as more of amodern style of unroped climbing distilleddown to its purest, most difficult form,then its starting date is a bit more recent.In Europe, Characters like the Englishmountaineer Oscar Eckenstein and hispupil Aleister Crowley took part in someof the first ever documented “bouldering”as far back as the 1880s. They probablywere doing about V0 on the modern scaleof difficulty (noting that it is not aboutthe ratings) and they did it in big leatherboots with nails in the bottom for betteredging. By the 1930s, Pierre Allain andhis crew, the “Bleausards” were doing thefirst bouldering circuits up to about V3/4in the sandstone forests of Fontainebleau,France. These early boulderers were mostlymountaineers/explorers who were findingmore than just practice on the smallerrocks.When bouldering in the more modernsense of the word began taking rootin Europe around the late 1800s/early1900s California was still a rugged andwild place for the most part. Few citieswere built yet and gold fever was still inthe air. By the 1920s to 1930s people inNorthern California had finally caughtup with civilization. At Indian Rock Parkin Berkeley at this time, a couple of rockclimbers (Dave Brower and Dick Leonard)invented the first dynamic belay techniquethat is still used all over the world todayto catch a falling climber. Since the 1940’s,Northern California has been on thecutting edge of technology, culture, andsport. From the young radicals in Berkeleywith the free speech movement andthe hippies’ free love movement in SanFrancisco in the sixties, up to the modernday dotcom high-tech revolution in SiliconValley, Northern California has beenKenny Ariza does Slab Crack at Rocklin. Ken Ariza Collectionand will always be pushing the limits ofcivilization’s evolution.In the 1950s American boulderingwould have its true birth. American JohnGill would have a final piece to add to thepuzzle before bouldering was respectedas a noble and proud pastime, the finalpart to add to the turbo V10 engine ofpsyche known as bouldering. Until Gill(a gymnast, mountaineer, math professorand visionary) combined his talentsinto the ultimate form of physical andmental challenge that we all know todayas bouldering, no one had ever actuallypushed the limits of what was possibleon rock. Gill’s dynamic techniques, staticpower moves, and training habits werehighly specialized for that time. He is alsoconsidered revolutionary for being thefirst to ever use chalk. Gill is recognizedas the first to really perfect the ideas andtechniques of modern day bouldering.He is considered the first true boulderer.Gill single handedly pulled the bar up toabout V10 on the modern scale. Another14N O R T H E R N C A L I F O R N I A B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S

HistoryI N T R O D U C T I O Nearly bouldering pioneer, Jim Holloway,pushed standards up even higher all theway to about V12 in the 1960s. Then, thegroundbreaking highball classic MidnightLightning in Yosemite was first climbedby Nor Cal native Ron Kauk in the 1970s.Since then a steady flow of strong, talented,and inspired characters has also joinedthe American bouldering crew and somewould join the Nor Cal crew as well.John “Verm” Sherman would be oneof those who made a mark in both. InAmerica he made his mark with thedevelopment of the original classics at theworld-renowned Hueco Tanks, as well asthe invention of the modern day V scalefor estimating difficulty (V is for Verm).Verm made his mark in Nor Cal whenhe started bouldering in Berkeley in the1970s and left problems that stand the testof time (like the classic Impossible Wallat Mortar Rock) for local climbers to testthemselves on for ages to come.The history of bouldering in NorthernCalifornia is as elusive as most of its rocks.It is still being written today just like someof the best rocks are still being found. Withmost of the development going on in theback woods and the forgotten beaches byhardcore, modest locals, not much of it hasever been documented. A few things thatare certain is that it started in the Bay Areaand Yosemite around the time boulderingwas getting started everywhere in Americain the 1960s and 70s. The developmentmoved out from those areas to placeslike Lake Tahoe, Columbia, Sonora Pass,Sonoma County, Moonstone Beach nearArcata, and Bald Rock near Chico in the1970s and 80s. Mt. Lassen in the desolatenortheast corner of the state and Lake andMendocino Counties were some of the lastto have major bouldering discoveries inthe 1990s. We still find new problems at allthese areas and even at some secret areas inbetween.In the 1990s the crash pad was not onlyinvented but it was accepted as a legitimatetool for everyday bouldering. The padchanged it all: sit starts were added toeverything, problems over rocks that wereonce too dangerous now looked fun andthe highballs started getting higher. Sinceback in those days when I started climbingwith my friend Marcos Nunez we havehad a great crew of friends/psyched localboulderers: Jim and Jason Campbell, JordyMorgan, Mark Howe, Richie Esquibel,Kenny Ariza, Dominic Sichel, ShawnRogers, Keith Bischoff, Ryan Padgett, SeanBrady, Charlie Barrett, Andrew and DaveWallach, Ryan Tolentino, Ryan Smith, andKevin Jorgeson. We all searched, found anddeveloped the boulders and crags alongthe one-of-a-kind Sonoma Coast and thehills, mountains, valleys and rivers aroundthe Wine Country, as well as the Sierras.All through the 1990s and past the turnof the century right up to today we arestill finding new rocks all over Nor Cal!Some of the major West Coast players ofNor Cal Bouldering from the past, presentand future are: Russ Bobzien (Bay Area),Mark Nichols (Tahoe/Bay Area), Scott Frye(Mickeys/Berkeley), Greg Loh (Tahoe/Berkeley), Jim Thornburg (Mickeys/Castle), Victor Copeland (Bishop/Sacramento/Tahoe), Dustin Sabo (SierraButtes/Tahoe), Dave Nunley, Mike Papciak(Berkeley/Mickeys), Bruce Morris (CastleRock), Frankie Ocasio (Mickeys), PaulBarraza (Tahoe), Travis Klawin (MountLassen), Ben Pope (Columbia), Jesse Boninand Noah Kaufman (Tahoe/Bear Valley),and John “Verm” Sherman (history).One of the main players of Nor Calbouldering is Chris Sharma, who humblygot his start in the gyms and on the rocksof Nor Cal and quickly proved himself onthe rocks of the world. His mellow NorCal vibe is what I think helps him succeed.The laid-back, peace-loving, freedomworshipping,Bohemian hippie culture isstill alive and kicking in the big cities, onthe far out beaches, and way out in theback cuts of the redwood forests of NorCal.Add your own chapter to the historybooks: come boulder in this naturalparadise and leave your worries behind.15F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

N O R T H E A S TBald RockNumber of problems: 50 total/25 listedRock: GraniteDifficulty: VB-V5/6Granite in the Central Valley foothills! Atabout 3000 feet elevation these are someof the few granite boulders in NorthernCalifornia that stay dry through most ofthe winter. With a fairly short 5-10 minuteapproach and a few short topropeable cliffs,this is a popular local weekend hang out forChico area climbers and also for classes. Themulti-pitch Bald Rock Dome is also nearbyin the Feather River Canyon. Check outthe sixth largest waterfall in America: theawesome Feather Falls.About the rockMostly vertical faces and arêtes with a fewslabs and overhangs.When to climbSpring and fall are best. Expect 90-plustemps mid summer. After a wet winterstorm, wait a few days for the boulders todry out.Driving directionsFrom CA-70 in Oroville take CA-162/Oro-Quincy Highway east through the city ofOroville and past Lake Oroville. About 19miles from the CA-70/CA-162 intersectionin Oroville, take a right onto the wellmarkedBald Rock Rd. Go 7.2 miles uphillMission Improbable. Photo by Valentine Cullen.to the left turn into the parking area at BaldRock Trailhead. Parking GPS: 39.64656,-121.34148‎ApproachFrom the parking area follow the obviousBald Rock Trail for about five minutes to ashort rocky uphill section. Angle right upto the ridgetop. Once on the ridgetop, spotthe boulders on the slabs to the north of thecliffs. GPS of boulders: 39.64753, -121.34663Number of problems by difficultyVB V0 V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 ≥V110 8 4 2 4 4 1 0 0 0 0 0 0110N O R T H E R N C A L I F O R N I A B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S

Bald RockN O R T H E A S T6712 3 4 5108 9John Gill Memorial Bouldero 1. Left arête?o 2. Mission Impossible V5/6★★★★ Faceright of arête.o 3. Center face?o 4. Mission Improbable V4/5★★★★ Faceleft of arête.o 5. V0★★★ Right arête.Bunny Blockso 6. Hugh Hefner V0★★★ The left of thetwo cracks. Jam and face climb up thesplit.OakRidgeThe AtomicPileHermitsHutBunnyBlocksTheAsteroids6722232425111213149, 101585 163, 42171 18Mutt+Jeff1920o 7. Hared Out V0★★★ Jam the offwidthcrack between John Gill MemorialBoulder and the other block.SolitaireBouldero 8. V1★★ Stand start on horizontaledge on the left side of the steep face.o 9. Bunny Arête V0★★ Right arête.o 10. V2★★ Traverse from Bunny Arêteto the left along the lip and finish on 8.to Oro-QuincyHighwayBald RockRd.Bald RockTrailhead111F O R C U R R E N T R O U T E I N F O R M A T I O N , V I S I T W W W . S U P E R T O P O . C O M

Bald RockN O R T H E A S TThe Asteroidso 11. Asteroids Traverse V3★★ Traversepumpy lip of juggy boulder right to left.o 12. Asteroid Bash V0★★★ Juggy rightarête. V1 sit start.o 13. Maneater Arête V2★★★ Stand start thearête right of chimney. Go up either side.o 14. Meateater Arête V1★★★ Stand startthe arête on the left side of the big chimney.o 15. Eros Direct V3★★ Stand start steep leftarête in tight corner. Hueco top out.o 16. V4★★★ Stand start on scooped sloperface.o 17. The Birdbath V1★★ Mantel into bighueco.Mutt Bouldero 18. Mutt Arête V0★★ Stand start slabarête. Mutt Arête Direct V1: Sit start undershort steep arête. Pull over onto slab.Jeff Bouldero 19. Northwest Face V4★★ Sit start rightside of short vertical crimper face.o 20. Northeast Face V4★★ Sit start on theleft side of the short vertical crimper face.o 21. Jeff Traverse V3★★ Traverse left toright along the top lip of the Jeff Boulder.Hermit Bouldero 22. Ramblin Recluse V0★★★ Start onoverhang right of Hermit Hut. Go up left.Reckless Recluse V1: same start but traverselow and left. Same finish.o 23. V3★★ Vertical rail.o 24. El Hermano V1★★ Right arête. V2Direct start left of arête.o 25. Flea on Hippo V0★ Bulge start to slab.Downclimb descent.15141312112N O R T H E R N C A L I F O R N I A B O U L D E R I N G : S U P E R T O P O S