campolindo woodshop safety manual - Diablo Woodworkers

Campolindo High School
WOOD SHOP
SAFETY
MANUAL
Campolindo High School
Wood Technology Program
300 Moraga Road
Moraga, CA 94556
August 2012
(revised 11/12)

Table of Contents
1. Acknowledgements………………...………………………….………………3
2. Introduction……………………………………………………….…………..4
3. Causes of Accidents……………………………………………….…………..4
4. General Safety Rules……………………………………………….…………5
5. Band Saw………………….………………………………………….………..9
6. Doweling or Horizontal Boring Machine……………………………..……10
7. Drill Press……………………………………………………………….……13
8. Edge Sander……………………………………………………….…………15
9. Jointer or Surfacer…………………………………………………..………17
10. Lathe……………………………………………………………….…………19
11. Oscillating Spindle Sander…………………….…………………….………21
12. Panel Saw…………………………………………………....…….…………23
13. Planer or Thicknesser…………………………………………….…………25
14. Router Table…………………………………………………………………27
15. Routers…………………………………………………………….…………29
16. Scroll Saw………………………………………….…………………………31
17. Sliding Compound Miter Saw…………………….………...………………33
18. Table Saw………………………………………….…………………………35
19. Vertical Belt and Disc Sander…………………….……………...…………38
20. Wide Belt Sander………………………………….…………………………40
21. Compressed Air Hose………………………………………………………..42
22. Appendix 1: Glossary…………………………….………………….………43
23. Appendix 2: Photo Instructions………………….…………………………49
2

Acknowledgements
Thanks for assistance with this manual are due to:
• The students in my Advanced Wood Technology Classes
• Attendees of my Safety Forum presentations at CITEA and CITEC conferences
from 2005 through 2008 for their helpful suggestions
• Tony Fortner and the gracious staff at Cerritos College for generously making
available to me their Woodworking Safety Manual and Test.
A Note on Format
Most safety manuals I have read enumerate the safety rules for each machine directly
following the illustration and/or brief description of the machine and its uses. Usually
embedded in these safety rules are bits of information that have little to do directly with
the safe operation of the machine, but rather are methods of operation or information on
maintenance. Potential hazards of each machine are scattered among these rules, and so
are left to be gleaned by the reader. For this manual I have chosen to list the potential
hazards posed by the machine, and their mitigations, immediately after the illustration
and description of the machine, so that they will be readily apparent to the reader. I have
also placed the methods of operation into a separate list following the safety rules.
Disclaimer
The information contained herein is believed to be true and correct. However, the author
makes no guarantee and assumes no responsibility for any accident, injury, loss, or
damage incurred through the use of information provided in this manual.
Machine Maintenance, other than routine cleaning and basic precautions, is not
considered in this manual, as it is not usually part of the high school curriculum.
A Note to Instructors Using This Manual
Please feel free to disseminate this manual among your colleagues and change it to make
it more appropriate for your program. Instructions for customizing the manual by the
inclusion or substitution and labeling of photos of machinery specific to your shop or lab
are given in Appendix 2: Photo Instructions. If you are in need of an electronic copy,
please send me an email and I will forward one to you.
If in the use of this manual you notice any significant omissions or errors, please notify
me by mail or email at the addresses listed below.
Don Dupont, Wood Technology, Furniture Design Instructor
Campolindo High School
300 Moraga Road
Moraga, CA 94556
ddupont@acalanes.k12.ca.us
donaldupont@gmail.com
3

Introduction
Hand tools and power-driven machine tools have been developed to save time and
perform accurate, repeatable work. Hand and power tools will consistently perform the
same operation hundreds of times if they are properly used, cared for, and understood. In
nearly all cases, mistakes and/or injuries are due to operator error, not the machine.
Whether the tools are helpful or harmful depends on you.
These rules and operating instructions are for the protection of the students enrolled in the
wood technology program. Complete familiarity with these rules is an essential
component of safe and efficient woodworking. Students therefore will be required to pass
a safety examination before being allowed to operate any machines.
Industrial studies have shown that there are three desirable characteristics that a good and
safety conscious worker possesses:
1. He or she must be well informed regarding hazards.
2. He or she must have developed proper and safe skills.
3. He or she must have developed and must maintain good attitudes relating to
his or her job and to safe practices within that job.
The key words to remember are:
KNOWLEDGE SKILL ATTITUDE
Additionally, a study made by the National Safety Council on school lab accidents show
that more accidents happen Saturday before noon than any other time and day of the
week, except days just before or following vacations. Of course, this does not mean you
can relax your safety habits during other days. In addition, the most dangerous school lab
is the wood shop. In the wood shop, the tools that are involved in most accidents are
listed below (the most dangerous in each category is listed first):
HAND TOOLS
POWER TOOLS
1. Chisels 1. Shaper 7. Grinder
2. Saws 2. Table Saw 8. Sander (Disc)
3. Knives 3. Jointer 9. Band Saw
4. Planes 4. Radial Arm Saw 10. Jig Saw
5. Hammers 5. Wood Lathe 11. Drill Press
6. Miter Saw 12. Planer
General Causes of Accidents
1. Ignorance
2. Carelessness
3. Lack of Judgment
4. Rushing a Job
5. Making too heavy a cut
4

6. Overconfidence
7. Talking while working
8. Inadequately guarded machinery
9. Using a dull tool
10. Using an improperly set or adjusted tool
11. Fatigue
12. Using the wrong material
13. Absent-mindedness
14. Working in a disorderly shop
15. Improper position of feet and body while operating a machine
16. Improper clothing
17. Using unsafe material (with checks, knots, etc.)
18. Eyestrain
SPECIFIC CAUSES OF ACCIDENTS
1. Startling a person while he or she is working at a machine
2. Crowding or hurrying a person at a machine
3. Failing to stop machinery for adjustments
4. Not replacing a guard after it has been removed
5. Moving or dropping fingers into moving parts or cutters
6. Failing to stop machinery for measurements
7. Students not starting and stopping their own machines
8. Operating machinery without receiving instruction on its proper use
9. Operating machinery while the instructor is out of the room
10. Showing off while operating machinery
11. Using the wrong machine for a given procedure
12. Operating machinery while under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
GENERAL SAFETY RULES
Note that the term “instructor” in this manual means the class instructor or the
instructional aide. The term “margin of safety” refers to the minimum distance that
the operator’s hands and fingers should be from the cutter, blade, bit, etc.
1. In any level of the woodworking program, you are under no obligation to use
power tools or machinery. Hand tool operations can be substituted for any and/or
all machine operations.
2. The use of cell phones and iPods (and the like) are strictly forbidden in the shop.
3. It is good safety practice to be courteous and considerate of others.
4. Hang nothing on fire extinguishers. The area around them should be kept clear so that
they may be reached without delay if fire breaks out.
5. Get instructor’s approval for all work you plan to do.
6. Avoid long sleeves, loose clothing, neckties, long hair, or anything that can be caught
up in moving machinery.
5

7. Articles of jewelry, such as rings, necklaces and bracelets should be avoided. These
items can get caught in moving machinery.
8. Long, loose hair can easily be caught in revolving machinery and ripped out, causing
serious scalp laceration. Your hair must be tied back or tightly covered when working
with machines.
9. Wearing gloves is forbidden while working with machines within the wood shop.
Gloves hinder your dexterity and may get caught in moving machinery.
10. If you feel ill, or are on any medication or any other substance that may affect your
ability to operate machinery, report to your instructor.
11. Report all injuries, even though slight, immediately to the instructor.
12. RUNNING, PUSHING, YELLING, SHOVING, THROWING OF OBJECTS, OR
ANY FORM OF HORSEPLAY IS VERY DANGEROUS AND IS STRICTLY
FORBIDDEN. Students caught doing so will be given a referral and lose machine
privileges.
13. State law requires that whenever anyone is working in the shop, Safety glasses must be
worn by everyone. If you have prescription eyeglasses, wear them; eyestrain is a
frequent cause of accidents. Safety glasses that fit over your prescription glasses are
available (OSHA approved Z87).
14. Cooperate with your classmates in the student management of the room and equipment.
15. Caution anyone you see violating a safety rule. Notify the instructor. You may save
yourself or someone else from serious injury.
16. Keep all vises closed and in the “in” position when not in use.
17. Always carry long objects, such as metal rods and long boards, with the front end high
enough to avoid striking someone.
18. Remove all scrap and waste wood immediately from the floor where it may be a hazard
to others. Put all waste wood in the scrap barrel.
19. Floors, aisles, and passageways should be kept clear of pieces of wood, tools, and
materials. Objects on the floor may cause someone to slip or fall.
20. Always sweep scraps from your workbench or table with a brush or piece of wood
rather than with your hands, as there may be sharp or jagged particles among the scraps.
21. If you see oil, grease, or any other liquid on the floor, wipe it up immediately and report
it to the instructor; you may prevent someone from slipping.
22. Report to your instructor any odor of gas in the room. Gas fumes may make you ill or
cause an explosion.
23. Keep all combustible material in the covered metal container. Rags that have absorbed
any amount of oil, linseed oil, gasoline, alcohol, shellac, paint, varnish or lacquer must
be disposed of in an approved covered metal container as a precaution against
spontaneous combustion.
24. Do not lift anything in the shop that is too heavy for you; seek help. We will either use
more personnel or employ mechanical help such as a lever, dolly, jack, forklift, wheels,
or rollers.
25. When lifting, keep your back straight and lift with your legs. Do not strain yourself;
injury can occur easily.
26. Use of compressed air hoses is permitted only under the supervision of the instructor.
6

27. When using air under pressure, be sure the air stream is not directed toward you or any
other person.
HAND TOOLS
28. Hardened tool surfaces (such as hammer heads) must never be struck together as the
metal may chip sending off a red-hot particle.
29. Sharp tools are safest: use them whenever possible. Dull tools are dangerous because
they are hard to control and require excess pressure by the operator.
30. Sharp or pointed tools must never be carried in the pockets. Always carry with points
down. Always hand to another person handle first.
31. All portable electric tools and appliances must be disconnected when not in use, making
adjustments, when inserting cutters or bits, or when changing sandpaper.
32. When unplugging an electric tool, pull on the plug instead of the cord.
33. Be sure your hands are dry before touching electrical switches, plugs, or receptacles. If
your hands are wet, you may receive a severe shock and serious burns.
34. Use the proper tool for the job.
MATERIALS
35. Use only material furnished or approved by your instructor.
36. Be sure that lumber is free from fasteners, checks, sand, paint, or loose knots before
being machined. No used lumber may be run on any machine.
37. Do not use green or treated lumber in any milling process.
38. Lumber size restrictions for each machine must be strictly followed.
MACHINES
39. Students must be instructed in the correct and safe use of any machine before work can
be done using that machine.
40. All machine safety devices must be used. Any operation requiring the removal of a
guard must be done by the instructor or under his or her personal supervision.
41. All adjustments to machines must be done while the machine is at a complete stop.
42. All special set ups must be inspected by the instructor before power is turned on.
43. All wrenches and other tools must be removed from machines before power is turned
on.
44. Keep rags away from machines that are in operation.
45. All students, except the operator, must stay outside the yellow safety zones on the floor.
Where there are no yellow safety zones, students must observe the operator safety zone
rule: one arm’s length away from student operating the machine.
46. With the exception of instructor-approved special set-ups, only the operator may start
and stop a machine. After the machine is turned off, he or she should control the
material and stand by until the machine has stopped running.
47. Do not attempt to distract any student using a machine. Do not let yourself be distracted
when operating a machine. Wait until you are finished with the operation and shut down
the machine before responding.
7

48. Immediately report to the instructor any machine out of adjustment or that sounds
unusual.
49. Stock must never be forced into a machine faster than the machine will cut. Use a
moderate feed rate.
50. Only one person at a time is permitted to use a machine unless an instructor appointed
helper is required because of the nature of the work. Students ripping lumber on the
table saw will always require the assistance of someone to “tail off”.
51. Never remove chips, shavings, scraps etc. from a machine while it is running. Stop the
machine completely before doing so.
52. The following tools are never to be used by students without direct instructor
supervision: Portable circular saw, chain saw, any CNC equipment, and wide belt
sander.
53. If you are in doubt about the use of any tool or machine, or about any shop
procedure, ask your instructor for help.
8

Band Saw 20”
The band saw is one
of the most versatile
machines in the shop.
It is used for making
curved cuts, for
crosscutting with a
miter gauge, ripping
with a fence, resawing
(slicing boards
down their center to
make them thinner),
and free-hand cutting
(without the use of a
miter gauge or fence).
The blade, a
continuous band with
teeth shaped into one
edge, travels in a
downward direction at
the point of the cut as
it tracks around two
wheels, one above the
table, and the other
below. It is the
diameter of these
wheels that
determines the size of
the band saw. Blade
width, typically ¼” to
½”, dictates how tight
a radius the saw will
cut.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Dust or debris/ work piece in the eyes (Wear eye protection)
• Getting hair/clothing caught in the blade (Tie hair back, no loose clothing)
• Being cut by the blade either when it is turning or stationary (Be aware of surroundings,
keep fingers away from blade)
• Blade bending and snapping (simplify complex curves, make relief cuts)
9

Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the band saw.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep fingers a safe distance from the saw blade. Always maintain a 4” margin of safety.
Use push sticks when necessary.
7. Feed material into the machine at a moderate rate of speed.
8. Be sure all guards are in place.
9. Never allow your hands to cross the line of cut.
10. Set upper saw guide ¼” or less above the stock to be cut.
11. Cut only stock that has a flat surface that rests securely on the table.
12. Hold work or material firmly.
13. Students should not change the saw blade or make any adjustments affecting the tracking
of the blade.
14. Report any mechanical defects or broken blade immediately to the instructor. A rhythmic
click may mean a cracked or bent blade. Stop saw immediately and report to the
instructor.
15. No tilted table work should be done except under direct supervision of the instructor.
16. Keep saw blade from twisting or binding when cutting curves.
17. Machine must be at a complete stop before backing out of a cut to avoid pulling the blade
off the wheels. Band saw has a foot brake (this may vary with different band saws).
18. Keep waste from accumulating on the saw table. Machine should be at a stop when
clearing scraps.
19. Step away immediately if saw blade breaks or comes off wheels. Shut off power, if
possible, without endangering self.
20. Be sure the saw is completely stopped before walking away from it.
21. All special set-ups need to be approved by the instructor.
22. Do not attempt to cut cylindrical stock on the band saw.
Methods of Operation:
1. Allow saw to reach full speed before starting a cut.
2. Plan sawing procedure so there may be a maximum forward feed with a minimum of
backing out.
3. Make relief cuts when necessary to cut a tight radius.
4. Use “vee” block when cutting dowel.
5. Clean band saw with a bench brush.
10

Doweling (Horizontal Boring) Machine
The Doweling Machine is used to
accurately and consistently drill holes
horizontally into the edges or ends of
stock in preparation for accepting
dowels for assembly. It consists of a
table onto which the work is secured for
drilling, a motor, which turns the drill
bit, and a mechanism for feeding the
drill bit into the stock. The brad point
style drill bits vary is size from ¼” to
½” in diameter, and are specialized with
threaded ends so that they screw into the
chuck of the machine. It is operated by
securing the work with the cam style
hold-down and feeding the bit into the
work with the feed lever or foot pedal
(some machines have pneumatic holddowns
and power feed mechanisms).
Setting a stop at the appropriate depth
controls depth of the hole.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Injuring hand or fingers with the drill bit (Keep hands and fingers away from drill)
• Catching of hair and clothing on rotating parts (Wear appropriate clothing; keep hair tied
back)
• Dust/debris in eyes (Wear eye protection)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the doweling machine.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
11

4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep fingers away from drill bit during operation.
7. Feed drill bit into work, using foot pedal or handle, at a moderate rate of speed. Do not
cause machine to slow down.
8. Check bit to be sure it is properly fastened.
9. Hold down must be adjusted so cam lock holds stock from moving during boring.
10. Never use your finger to brush chips away from the reference line. Use a brush or blow it
off.
11. Make sure your hands are clear before engaging the foot pedal or feed lever.
12. When finished operating doweling machine, turn off power and stand by until machine
has stopped.
Methods of Operation:
1. Table must be adjusted so drill bit will enter wood at the proper place, usually in the
middle of its thickness.
2. Depth of cut must be adjusted prior to boring holes.
3. Be sure drill bit size is correct for the dowels being used. All bit changes must be
approved by the instructor.
4. Clean doweling machine with a bench brush.
12

Drill Press 18”
The drill press is used primarily for drilling and
boring holes in a controlled manner in a variety of
materials. It can accommodate several bit types,
from the common twist drill bit to hole saws and
multi-spur bits. In addition to drilling, the drill
press can be used for a variety of other operations
including drum sanding, plug cutting, rotary
rasping, buffing and polishing, to name a few. It
consists of a column-mounted table to hold the
work, a motor which drives the spindle, a chuck
which holds the bit, and a base which secures it to
the floor. The table is adjustable up and down the
column by means of a crank on the right side of the
table. In order for the table to move, the clamp on
the left side on the table should be loosened.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Wood seized by bit and spinning (clamp wood to table or use drill press vise)
• Fingers damaged by drill if holding a piece that is too small (use the drill press vise)
• Hair/clothing caught in the spindle or bit (tie hair back, no loose clothing)
• Wood chips flying into eyes (wear eye protection)
• Fingers injured or severed by chuck key on chain (remove chuck key from chain)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the drill press.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
13

5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Operate feed handle so that drill cuts evenly into work.
7. Keep hands away from revolving spindle, chuck, etc.
8. Tighten drill bit in chuck and remove chuck key immediately from chuck afterwards.
Failure to do so could result in the key being thrown from the chuck.
9. Use drill press vise or other clamping devices whenever working with small pieces.
10. Work must be secured to the table with a clamping device when using a large bit. Failure
to do so could cause the piece to be seized by the bit and spun around.
11. The procedure for changing the spindle speed varies with each drill press type. Check
with your instructor before attempting to change the speed.
12. Be certain that the table of the drill press and the bit are secure.
13. Select the proper drill bit for the job and avoid dull bits (see instructor if a bit is dull).
14. Use the proper speed for the drill bit being used: Large Bits, Slow Speed; Small Bits,
High Speed.
15. Turn off power after using drill press and stand by until the machine has stopped before
removing your work.
16. Hold feed lever and work against table if it is seized by drill. Shut off power.
Methods of Operation:
1. Always place a wood support between table and project when drilling or boring. When
drilling all the way through your work, to insure a clean exit hole, place your work
over an un-drilled portion of the support block.
2. When drilling to a specific depth, use the depth stop (depth stops vary on different
machines).
3. Ease up on feed handle when drill begins to break through material.
4. Back drill out often to clear waste wood from the hole, especially when using multispur
type drill bits.
5. Clean off drill press table and surrounding area with bench brush and broom. Return
cleaned drills, vise, sanding drums, plug cutter, etc. to designated place.
6. Be sure to loosen the clamping device before attempting to raise or lower the table. Retighten
the clamp to secure the table before drilling.
14

Edge Sander 6” x 128”
The Edge Sander is a machine that is designed to accurately sand the edges of stock, face frames,
or glue-ups. It utilizes a 6” wide abrasive belt, which oscillates in an up and down motion to help
distribute the heat build-up due to friction. Care must be taken when using the edge sander as it
generates a considerable amount of friction and will take control of the work if it is not held
securely. Edge sanders are capable of sanding with many different grits of abrasives.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Clothing getting caught by belt (no long sleeve clothing)
• Sanding fingers or hands (keep hands away from abrasive belt)
• Wood seized by abrasive belt, flies out of hands (hold work securely; rest work against
fence)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the edge sander.
15

3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep hands and fingers well away from abrasive belt; maintain a 4” margin of safety.
7. Feed material into the belt deliberately and cautiously. Belt can easily seize the wood
from your hand and cause a kickback.
8. Keep guards in place.
9. Edge sander is for sanding edge grain only, never face or end grain.
10. If any breaks, tears, or looseness in the belt or loose parts are noticed, do not start the
machine. Immediately notify the instructor.
11. Minimum length for sanding is 12” unless approved by the instructor.
12. Do not attempt to sand small pieces on the edge sander. The abrasive can easily injure
your fingers.
13. Hold work securely to avoid kick-back; hold work against fence if hands cannot control
piece.
14. Sand work lightly as abrasive generates a lot of friction and can take control of work.
15. Keep dust collector vent open when in use.
16. Turn off power and stand by until machine completely stops before leaving it.
Methods of Operation:
1. Move work from right to left, against direction of belt travel.
2. With instructor’s approval, guards may be opened to accommodate longer stock.
3. Table may be raised or lowered to take advantage of fresh abrasive on the belt.
4. Clean edge sander with a bench brush.
16

Jointer (Surfacer) 16”
The Jointer, or Surfacer, is
used to flatten the face of a
board, straighten the edge of
a board in preparation for
joining it to another board
(hence its name), rabbeting,
beveling, and tapering. Its
size is determined by the
width of its cutterhead (and
therefore the length of its
cutters or knives) which
indicates the widest board
that can be surfaced. The
jointer is operated by
moving stock across the
rapidly rotating knives from
the infeed table to the outfeed table. Extreme caution must be exercised when using the jointer as
its knives become exposed during operation. There is also the potential for kickback. Push blocks
and push sticks must be used to keep the hands and fingers away from the cutters.
17

Potential Hazards (and Their Mitigations):
• Hand/finger contact with cutterhead (keep hands/fingers at least 4” from cutterhead, use
push sticks, push block, be sure guard is functioning)
• Clothing or jewelry caught in rotating cutterhead (avoid loose clothing or hanging
jewelry)
• Kick-back of work piece (observe minimum sizes, limit cut to 1/16” or less, use push
block)
• Wood chips/dust thrown at operator (wear eye protection)
• Slipping and falling into cutterhead (balanced stance, no scraps on floor)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the jointer.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep fingers a safe distance from the cutter head. Always maintain a 4” margin of safety.
Use push sticks when necessary.
7. Feed material into the machine at a moderate rate of speed.
8. Be sure the cutterhead guard is in place and functioning.
9. Jointer must be running at full speed before jointing stock.
10. Limit depth of cut to 1/16” or less. Most cuts should be done at 1/32”.
11. To avoid kickback, use only stock 12” or longer on the jointer.
12. Check to be sure the fence is secure.
13. Use only clean lumber, free of fasteners, checks, loose knots, sand, and paint.
14. All special set-ups must be checked and approved by the instructor.
15. Long pieces of stock need to be supported by a person tailing off.
16. Push block must be used when jointing the face of a board; push sticks must be used
when jointing the edge of stock under 4” wide.
17. When jointing the face of a board, the concave or hollow face should be jointed first.
18. Do not attempt to surface boards under ½” thick on the jointer.
19. End grain must never be run over the jointer.
20. Work should be held firmly against the table and fence.
21. Push the stock far enough past the knives so that the guard will return before you pick up
the stock.
22. Never attempt to adjust the outfeed table, which must be set at the same level as the
cutterhead knives.
23. Turn off power after using jointer and stand by until machine has stopped.
Methods of Operation:
1. Consult instructor for doing specialized operations such as rabbeting or tapering.
2. If stock is severely warped, cut stock (safely) into shorter lengths, if possible, before
jointing. This will minimize the severity of the warp.
3. Clean jointer with a bench brush.
18

Lathe 16” x 42”
The wood lathe is one of the few machines on which the operator can take a piece of rough stock
and transform it into a finished work all on the same machine. Stock is mounted either on a face
plate or between centers, and turned into various shapes by the operator using a variety of lathe
chisels, controlled on the tool rest. Proper positioning of the tool rest and speed of the motor is
essential to the safe operation of the wood lathe.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Dust or debris/ work piece in the eyes (Wear eye protection, face shield)
• Getting hair/clothing caught in rotating parts or stock (Tie hair back, no loose clothing)
• Being struck by stock flying off the lathe (Be sure stock is properly and securely mounted
on the lathe)
• Chisels being caught by work (Use proper spindle speed and tool rest placement; be sure
chisels are sharp)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection. Students using the lathe must wear safety glasses and a face shield.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the lathe.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep your hands away from the stock and chucks when it is spinning.
19

7. Feed chisels into the rotating stock cautiously and at a moderate rate of speed.
8. Glued up stock must dry 24 hours before turning.
9. All set-ups must be checked by instructor before turning on the lathe.
10. Rotate work to be turned several times to be sure it clears tool rest and lathe bed.
11. All stock over 4” square must have their corners chamfered before turning.
12. Do not attempt to turn used wood or wood with knots, checks, cracks, and other defects.
13. Rough and unbalanced stock must be turned to a round at a low speed. The lathe should
not be allowed to vibrate. Unbalanced stock may become loose, vibrate and fly off the
lathe.
14. All centers must enter the wood at least 1/8”. Dead centers should be oiled or waxed
before turning.
15. Be sure faceplate screws are not so long as to enter into the portion of the wood being
turned.
16. All measuring of diameters with a caliper must be done while lathe is stopped.
17. Turning tools must be held securely at tool rest and at extreme end of handle.
18. Tail stock should be securely locked for all work between centers. Use tailstock center
whenever possible, even when turning bowls.
19. Remove push rod from spindle after knocking out live center.
20. Centers must be removed while doing face-plate turning.
21. Remove tool rest from lathe bed before sanding to avoid injury. Sanding should be done
on the underside of the work.
22. Lathe chisels must be kept sharp at all times. Dull tools are hard to control. Do not
attempt to sharpen lathe chisels without proper instructions.
23. When applying finish or polishing on the lathe, rag should be folded into a small pad, not
wrapped around finger.
24. Tool rest must be kept as close to the work as possible, and frequently re-adjusted as the
work changes shape. Tool rest height should be approximately at centerline of work to be
turned. Raise tool rest when using skew chisel; lower tool rest when using scrapers
(square/round nose).
25. Be sure the tool rest is firmly clamped to its holder and to the lathe bed.
Methods of Operation:
1. Spur centers are not to be forced into the work by means of tail stock spindle. USE A
MALLET.
2. All lathe equipment is color coded for each lathe. Keep all tools etc. with the appropriate
lathe.
3. Do not rest chisels on the lathe bed when making adjustments. They can easily fall and
be damaged. Rather, place the chisel back in the tool rack.
4. Cut faceplate stock round on the band saw before turning.
5. Faceplates must be removed from wood stubs when finished with a turning.
6. Stronghold chucks and jumbo jaws are to be removed from your work at the end of
class.
7. Used up sandpaper needs to be discarded. Usable sandpaper should be put in the
appropriate place.
8. Clean lathes with a bench brush.
9. Students using the lathes are responsible for cleaning the lathes and the surrounding
area. Mini lathes need to be vacuumed after use.
20

Oscillating Spindle Sander ¾”
The Oscillating Spindle
Sander is used to sand
concave (inside) curves.
The spindle rotates in a
counter-clockwise
direction while
simultaneously oscillating
up and down. This action
helps keep the abrasive
sleeve from loading with
sanding dust, wearing out,
and overheating. Various
spindle sizes can be used
to accommodate different
curves. The table also tilts
to allow for sanding
curves at different angles.
Potential Hazards (and Their Mitigation):
• Wood seized by sanding sleeve and thrown (hold work securely)
• Wood seized by sanding sleeve and spun around on interior operation (maintain adequate
clearance around spindle)
• Dust inhalation (be sure dust collector is on)
• Injuring fingers on abrasive (keep fingers clear of abrasive, do not sand small pieces, use
correct sized throat plate)
• Clothing/jewelry/hair seized by rotating spindle (avoid loose clothing, jewelry)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the spindle sander.
21

3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep fingers a safe distance from the abrasive sleeve.
7. Feed material into the machine at a moderate rate of speed.
8. When changing spindles, turn off power at the disconnect box.
9. Use the throat plate that leaves the smallest opening around the spindle.
10. Hold stock securely when operating spindle sander.
11. Always feed work into spindle drum from right to left direction against the direction of
the spindle’s rotation.
12. When sanding inside complete circles or other interior shapes, adequate clearance of 1
inch must be maintained between sanding drum and stock.
13. Do not sand small pieces on the spindle sander. Do not endanger your fingers.
14. Do not reach under work or around sanding sleeve while spindle is rotating.
15. Do not blow sanding dust off of sanding table.
Methods of Operation:
1. Spindle sanders should not be used to sand outside (convex) curves.
2. Wrenches are to be used only for loosening spindles for removal. Hand-tighten spindles
only. Using wrenches to tighten spindles will result in the spindle becoming stuck in the
collet.
3. For best results, always use the largest spindle possible for the curve you are sanding.
4. Avoid excessive pressure on the spindle, which will result in excessive abrasive wear and
poor results.
5. Clean spindle sander with a bench brush.
22

Panel Saw
The Panel Saw is a
machine designed
to accurately
dimension large
sheets of panel
goods, such as
plywood and
particle board. The
material to be cut
is placed on the
stock support
rollers, positioned
by using the stop
block, and cut by
turning on the saw
and sliding the
saw and its
carriage down the
guide tubes. It can
also be used for
ripping sheet
goods by rotating
the saw on its
carriage, fixing it
at the appropriate
height, and
pushing the
material through
the saw on the
stock support
rollers.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Kerf closing during cut (Follow stock size restrictions)
• Hands or fingers being injured by blade (Keep hands and fingers away from saw
carriage)
• Dust and/or debris in face or eyes (Wear eye protection)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the panel saw.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
23

4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep hands and fingers well away from saw carriage; maintain a 4” margin of safety.
7. Feed saw into material slowly and deliberately.
8. Keep guards in place.
9. Use only clean lumber, free of fasteners, checks, loose knots, sand, and paint.
10. Once work is properly positioned, turn saw on, wait until it achieves its full RPMs, and
push saw carriage slowly down to the bottom of its travel. Turn off saw after cut is
completed.
11. Wait for the blade to stop completely before raising the carriage to its resting position.
12. Never cut a workpiece with a width smaller than that of the saw carriage.
13. Do not place hands on or under saw carriage or in the path of the blade. Do not attempt to
retrieve a piece of material while the blade is still turning.
14. Do not force tool. Let the saw do the work.
15. If the blade binds, stop carriage movement and turn off saw and wait for it to come to a
complete stop. Notify instructor.
Methods of Operation:
1. Stop block can be attached to either side of the saw carriage for accurately dimensioned
cuts.
2. Load stock onto machine from right side if possible for ease of placement under holddowns.
3. Saw will cut more cleanly on the back side of your workpiece. Plan accordingly.
4. Clean panel saw with a bench brush.
24

Planer 22”
thickness.
The Planer, or
Thicknesser, is designed
to surface the wood to a
uniform thickness. The
size of the planer is
defined by the width of its
cutterhead. For optimum
results, rough lumber
needs to be surfaced and
flattened on one face on
the jointer or surfacer,
then put through the
planer, smooth surface
down on the infeed table.
As the stock moves
through the machine, fed
by the infeed and outfeed
rollers, a layer of wood is
removed by the overhead
rotating cutterhead. When
properly adjusted, the
lumber will then be
surfaced on the opposite
side and be of a uniform
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Dust or debris/ work piece in the eyes (Wear eye protection, do not look into operating
machine)
• Getting hair/clothing caught on the moving wood (Tie hair back, no loose clothing)
• Having fingers/hand pulled into machine (Keep hands from infeed roller and wood once
it begins moving into machine)
• Kickback (Machine should have anti-kickback fingers; stand to side of infeed table)
Safety Rules:
1) Wear eye protection.
2) Do not do any unauthorized operations on the planer.
3) Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop (other than depth of cut).
4) Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5) No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6) Keep fingers a safe distance from the infeed roller.
7) Limit depth of cut to 1/16” or less.
8) Use only stock 12” or longer, the distance between the infeed and outfeed rollers, on the
planer.
9) Use only clean lumber, free of fasteners, checks, loose knots, sand, and paint.
25

10) Stock less than ¼” thick must not be planed unless supported by a heavier bearing board.
11) Once stock is engaged in the machine, do not attempt to move it. Stay clear of stock to
prevent clothing from being caught by machine.
12) Do not stand directly behind stock when feeding it into the planer because of the possibility
of a kickback.
13) Never bend over to look at stock being planed. Chips can be thrown into your face.
14) All special set-ups must be checked and approved by the instructor.
15) Adjust the initial depth of cut to the thickest part of the board.
16) Never change depth of cut after stock has been started through the planer.
17) Always plane with the grain. Never plane across the grain; the planer will shred the wood.
18) Wait for the machine to reach full speed before inserting wood.
19) If the stock gets stuck in the planer, do the following, in this order:
a) Gently push the stock into the planer; do not overly force the material.
b) If that does not get the material moving, use a piece of scrap wood to shift the stock at a
slight angle.
c) If that does not work, lower table 1/8 of a turn of the adjustment wheel and repeat steps a
and b until stock starts feeding again. Do not turn the wheel more than 1/8 turn at a time
as the feed rollers may lose contact with the stock and a kickback could occur.
Methods of Operation:
1. Limit depth of cut to what machine can reasonably cut without bogging down, usually 1/16”.
2. Plane pieces of varying thickness in progressive order, starting with the thickest first.
3. Consider grain direction to avoid tear out; grain should be coming up toward the operator as
it is being fed into the machine.
4. Do not adjust the speed of the feed rollers. Only the instructor may do this.
5. Long pieces of stock need to be supported by a person tailing off.
6. Clean planer with a bench brush.
26

Router Table
The Router Table consists of a portable router mounted on the underside of a specially
constructed table, collet side up, usually with a mechanism for raising and lowering the cutting
bit. This arrangement allows for many special set-ups and for greater control of the cuts the
router makes, as there is a fence along which to run the work, and a groove to control a miter
gauge as well. Router tables are available in many styles, from the shop-made to elaborate
commercial varieties.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Dust or debris/ work piece in the eyes (Wear eye protection)
• Getting hair/clothing caught in the cutter (Tie hair back, no loose clothing)
• Being injured by the cutter either when it is turning or stationary (Keep fingers away
from cutters; use guards, hold-downs and feather boards)
• Bit becomes loose in its collet (Be sure bit is tightened in the collet; bits that have a flare
at the top of the shaft should be tightened below the flare)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the router table.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
27

4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep fingers a safe distance from the cutter. Always maintain a 4” margin of safety. Use
push sticks, feather boards and hold-downs, or sliding fence when necessary.
7. Feed material into the machine at a moderate rate of speed.
8. Be sure all guards are in place.
9. Use only clean lumber, free of checks, loose knots, sand, and paint.
10. Be sure stock is clear of cutter before turning on router.
11. Machine must be switched OFF and unplugged before any repair, cleaning, adjusting, or
maintenance is done on it.
12. Do not allow yourself to be distracted while work is in progress.
13. Do not attempt to operate the router table if fatigued or otherwise unfit to perform the
task at hand.
14. Be sure vacuum is on before making any routs on stock. Vacuum turns on with the router.
15. Clear all bit changes with the instructor.
16. Use a slow speed for large cutters, and high speed for small cutters.
17. Keep hands clear of the cutters.
18. Hold wood firmly against the fence and feed slowly into the cutter from right to left.
19. Use cutter guard and/or feather boards and hold-downs whenever possible.
20. Never run stock between fence and cutter. Cutters should always be within the plane of
the fence.
Methods of Operation:
1. Allow router to reach full speed before starting a cut.
2. Make a test cut on a piece of scrap wood before routing work.
3. To avoid unnecessary tear-out, always rout end grain first, then long grain.
4. Do not attempt to make deep cuts in one pass. Begin with shallow cuts and increase the
depth of cut incrementally.
5. Do not allow a router bit to bottom out in the collet. It could come loose because of the
flange on the shaft.
6. Clean router table with a bench brush.
28

Routers
Routers are available in a great variety of sizes and configurations. Pictured above are just two of
the most commonly used routers, a small Trim Router, capable of being operated with one hand,
and a “D”-Handle Router, a larger and more versatile type. Plunge base routers are also common,
allowing the operator to begin and end a cut in the middle of a board. Routers are used to apply
decorative shapes to the edges of boards, rout rabbets and dados, and make specialty joints such
as mortise & tenon, tongue & groove, and dovetails.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Dust or debris/ work piece in the eyes (Wear eye protection)
• Getting hair/clothing caught in the rotating bit (Tie hair back, no loose clothing)
• Being cut by the rotating bit (Keep fingers away from bit)
• Bit becoming loose in its collet (Be sure bit is tightened in the collet; bits that have a flare
at the top of the shaft should be tightened below the flare)
• Stock kicking back (secure stock to workbench)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations with the router.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop, and unplugged from the
power source.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep fingers away from rotating cutting bits.
29

7. Do not force router cutter into stock faster than necessary for clean cutting. Do not cause
machine to reduce speed.
8. Clear all cutting bit changes with instructor. Before changing bit, be sure router is
unplugged. All bit changes must be inspected by instructor before use.
9. Be sure on-off switch is in the off position before plugging cord in socket.
10. Maintain a well-balanced position on both feet when handling the router.
11. Hold router firmly when turning on switch. Some routers develop high torque suddenly
when starting.
12. Always check cutting depth adjustment of bits before turning on router.
13. Work should be secured to the workbench when routing. Always keep both hands on the
router.
14. After turning off power, let router stop turning completely before setting machine down.
15. Router should be moved in a counterclockwise direction around the outside edges of your
work, and clockwise on interior (cut out) edges.
Methods of Operation:
1. Allow router to reach full speed before starting a cut.
2. To avoid unnecessary tear-out, rout end grain first, then long grain.
3. Make a test cut on scrap wood before routing your project, to be sure the bit is the
appropriate one.
4. Do not allow a router bit to bottom out in the collet. It could come loose because of the
flange on the shaft.
5. Do not attempt to make deep cuts in one pass. Begin with shallow cuts and increase the
depth of cut incrementally.
6. Secure cord before putting router away.
30

Scroll Saw 24”
The scroll saw is
used for cutting
tight radius curves
and interior cuts in
thin stock. Blades
are typically 5”
long and range is
size from 1/32” to
¼”. The smaller
the blade size, the
tighter the radius
that can be cut.
All scroll saws cut
on the down
stroke, pushing
the work toward
the table.
However, there is
considerable force
acting on the
wood during the
up-stroke of the cycle so that the operator needs to hold the work firmly onto the table. This can
be facilitated by making use of the “hold-down” that is designed for this purpose. Scroll saws are
available in various types such as the fixed-arm, C-arm, and parallel-arm, pictured here. Scroll
saws are not designed for heavy-duty cutting. Stock should be limited to ¾” thick for softwoods,
and ½” thick for hardwoods.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Dust or debris/ work piece in the eyes (Wear eye protection)
• Getting hair/clothing caught in the blade (Tie hair back, no loose clothing)
• Being cut by the blade either when it is moving or stationary (Be aware of surroundings,
keep fingers away from blade)
• Blade bending and snapping (simplify complex curves; work slowly)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the scroll saw.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep fingers a safe distance from the saw blade. Always maintain a 3” margin of safety.
7. Feed material into the machine at a moderate rate of speed.
8. Be sure all guards are in place. Guards may be removed with the instructor’s approval.
9. For most operations, hold down must be adjusted so it rests on work.
10. Never allow your hands to cross the line of cut.
31

11. Cut only stock that has a flat surface that rests securely on the table.
12. Turn machine by hand if possible to be sure all parts are clearing before turning on
power.
13. Hold work or material firmly.
14. Machine must be at a complete stop before backing out of a cut.
15. Keep waste from accumulating on the saw table. Machine should be at a stop when
clearing scraps.
16. All special set-ups need to be approved by the instructor.
17. Do not attempt to cut cylindrical stock on the scroll saw.
18. Report mechanical defects or a broken blade immediately to the instructor.
Methods of Operation:
1. Allow saw to reach full speed before starting a cut.
2. Plan sawing procedure so there may be a maximum forward feed with a minimum of
backing out.
3. Clean scroll saw with a bench brush.
32

Sliding Compound Miter Saw 12”
The Sliding Compound Miter Saw, often referred to as a “Chop Saw,” is used for cross-cutting
rough lumber to approximate length as well as cross-cutting dimensioned or finished stock to
precise lengths and at various angles from 90° to ±45°. It is also capable of cutting compound
angles. Its safe operation requires strict adherence to the safety and operating rules.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Dust or debris/ work piece being thrown (Wear eye protection; use hold-down clamp)
• Getting hair/clothing caught in the blade (Tie hair back, no loose clothing)
• Being cut by the blade (Keep hands and fingers away from blade; maintain a 6” margin
of safety)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the sliding compound miter saw.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep fingers a safe distance from the saw blade. Always maintain a 6” margin of safety.
Be sure to use the hold-down clamp and keep free hand behind your back
33

7. Feed blade into the material at a moderate rate of speed.
8. Stock dimension restrictions: 6” long minimum; 12 ½” wide maximum.
9. Do not make any rip cuts on the sliding compound miter saw.
10. Use only clean lumber, free of fasteners, checks, loose knots, sand, and paint.
11. Work must be against the fence and secured to the saw table with the hold-down; free
hand must be placed behind the back before making a cut.
12. Be sure work is in contact with the fence at the point of the cut. Stock that bows away
from the fence must be reversed before cutting. Failure to do so could cause the saw to
kick back.
13. When using the sliding compound miter saw to cut a wide piece of stock, blade must be
fully extended (toward the operator) while in the up position, started and allowed to reach
its full rpm’s, then slowly lowered and pushed through the stock until cut is completed.
14. When cutting narrow stock, the blade may be left in its resting position, started, and
pushed down through the work.
15. Wait until saw blade has come to a complete stop before raising it to its resting position.
16. When using the stop block, hold-down clamp must be on the same side of the blade as the
stop block.
17. When using the stop block to cut small pieces (6” minimum length), use the 10” spacer
block and clamp your work, not the spacer block.
18. Wait until the saw has come to a complete stop and remove all wood chips from saw
table after using saw and before every cut.
19. Cut only one piece at a time on the sliding compound miter saw.
20. Never allow your hand to be in the line of cut.
Methods of Operation:
1. Test all miter set-ups on scrap wood before cutting project.
2. Turn on vacuum switch before making any cuts.
3. Clean miter saw with a bench brush. Vacuum must be emptied periodically.
34

Table Saw 10”
The Table Saw,
as its name
implies, consists
of a table through
which a circular
blade can be
elevated. It is
used to accurately
rip and crosscut
lumber and sheet
goods. It can also
be used to create
dadoes and
rabbets, and, with
the help of
special jigs, joints
such as tenons
and box joints. In
addition, the
blade can be
tilted for cutting
chamfers, bevels,
miters, and
compound miters.
Freehand cutting
is strictly prohibited on the table saw. The size of the table saw is determined by the diameter of
its blade.
cross-cutting panels up to 36 inches.
NOTE: The SawStop brand table saw illustrated here
incorporates a digitally controlled start/stop
mechanism, which works with the built-in blade
braking system to add a layer of safety not available
with other table saws. In order to operate the saw, the
power needs to be turned on at the disconnect box, and
switched on at the control panel. The saw blade is then
started and stopped with the large red paddle by
pulling it to start, and pushing it to stop. The paddle is
situated so as to make it easy to stop the saw with
one’s leg or knee, thus freeing both hands to maintain
control of the work.
Students need to be personally checked out on the
table saw by the instructor at the beginning of each
year regardless whether they have been previously
checked out.
The saw illustrated here also incorporates an
aftermarket sliding table mechanism, which includes a
miter fence and allows for accurate mitering, and
35

Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Dust or debris/ work piece in the eyes (Wear eye protection)
• Kick-back of stock (Be sure anti-kick-back splitter and fingers are in place; stand to one
side of the path of the blade)
• Being cut by the blade (Be sure guard is in place; keep fingers away from blade; use push
sticks; do not pick up scraps until blade has stopped turning)
• Wood binds on the blade; blade is seized by the wood (When feeding stock into the
blade, make sure to hold the wood firmly and pressed up against the fence)
• Getting clothing caught in the blade (No loose clothing)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the table saw.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep fingers a safe distance from the saw blade. Always maintain a 4” margin of safety.
Use push sticks when necessary.
7. Feed material into the machine at a moderate rate of speed.
8. Be sure all guards and the riving knife are in place. The guards and riving knife may be
removed only when the instructor has authorized their removal for special set ups.
9. Never allow your hands to cross the line of cut.
10. Cut only stock that has a flat surface that rests securely on the table and against rip
fence.
11. Be sure to push the wood past the back edge of the blade and past the riving knife in
order to avoid kickback.
12. Hold work or material firmly.
13. Keep waste from accumulating on the saw table. Blade should be stopped when clearing
scraps.
14. Limit saw blade height to one saw tooth above stock to be cut.
15. Minimum length of stock when ripping is 12”. Minimum length for crosscutting is 8”.
Minimum width for rip is 1 ½”. Instructor’s help must be obtained for exceptions to this
rule.
16. Use approved push sticks when ripping pieces narrower than 6 inches. Do not endanger
fingers.
17. Use only clean lumber, free of fasteners, checks, loose knots, sand, and paint.
18. Be sure saw teeth point toward you as you stand on the operator side of the saw.
19. Use ripping fence for ripping; use the miter gauge or sliding table fence for cross-cutting
on the table saw. Never use both together.
20. Use a clearance block clamped to the rip fence when cross cutting several identical
pieces.
21. Never free-hand cut on the table saw. It is dangerous and will result in a kickback.
22. Be sure ripping fence is locked in place before ripping.
23. Be sure the stock is not in contact with the blade before turning on machine.
24. Always have a helper tailing off stock. Person tailing off should only support stock and
not attempt to guide or pull it.
25. Only operator should push the material, and only as fast as the saw will freely cut.
36

26. Stand to one side of the line of the saw to avoid kickback danger and keep hands clear of
the saw path.
27. When ripping, set rip fence to the desired dimension. Scrap will be to the left side of the
blade.
28. Never reach behind the saw blade and attempt to pull stock through.
29. Never reach over the saw blade or pass work over the blade while it is running. If the
work is dropped it could result in a kickback.
30. All special set-ups and dado heads must be inspected by the instructor before power is
turned on. The guard must be removed for dado work.
31. All blade changes must be checked by the instructor.
32. Plunge cutting on the table saw (pushing material down onto a rotating blade) is strictly
forbidden.
33. No cylindrical or round stock is to be cut on the table saw.
34. Do not be distracted when operating the table saw. Turn off saw, and move out of the
operator’s safety zone before responding to anyone attracting your attention.
35. Do not distract anyone operating the table saw
36. Be sure the saw is completely stopped and blade is lowered below table before walking
away from it.
37. Never back wood away from a running blade. Doing so can result in a kickback.
Methods of Operation:
1. Allow saw to reach full speed before starting a cut.
2. Dado heads must be removed after use.
3. Be sure dust collector gate is open.
4. Clean table saw with a bench brush.
37

Vertical Belt and Disc Sander 6” – 12”
The vertical belt/disc
sander combination is a
very versatile machine. It
allows for sanding stock
with precision and, with
the use of a miter gauge
and tilted table (up to 45
degrees), at various
angles and compound
angles. The diameter of
the disc and the width of
the belt indicate the size
of the machine, in this
case 12” and 6”
respectively.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Dust or debris/ work piece in the eyes (Wear eye protection)
• Breathing wood dust (Be sure dust collector is on)
• Getting hair/clothing caught in the belt (Tie hair back, no loose clothing)
• Injuring fingers on the abrasives (Do not sand small pieces; keep fingers away from the
abrasives)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the sanders.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
38

4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
6. Keep fingers a safe distance from the abrasives. Always maintain a 2” margin of safety.
7. Feed material into the machine at a moderate rate of speed.
8. Check belt for breaks or tears. Notify instructor if either are found.
9. Notify the instructor immediately if belt is not centered on the platen. Do not attempt to
adjust the belt tracking.
10. Do not sand small pieces on the belt sander. They may be caught by the belt, pulled
down below the table, resulting in an injury to the fingers.
11. Hold work securely.
12. Sand only on the side of the disc sander that is moving in a downward direction, toward
the table.
13. Do not sand on the disc sander if the sanding disc is loose. Notify instructor.
14. Feed stock into the vertical belt sander directly against the belt, not from side to side as
this may cause the wood to catch the edge of the belt and rip or cause it to come off.
Methods of Operation:
1. Allow sander to reach full speed before starting to sand.
2. Use miter gauge whenever possible to assure accuracy.
3. Keep stock moving from side to side when sanding to avoid abrasive wear and heat build
up.
4. Do not use the vertical belt or disc sander for joinery, squaring stock or similar
operations. They do not have the precision required for such operations.
5. Maximum length or width of stock to sand is 6 inches.
6. Avoid sanding concave surfaces.
7. Clean vertical belt sanders with a brush.
39

Wide Belt Sander 15” (30”)
The wide belt sander
is used to sand the
surface of stock or
glue-ups up to 30”
wide. It consists of a
15” wide abrasive
belt, and a conveyor
belt feed table that
guides the work
through the machine.
Because this is an
open-ended sander,
work up to 30” wide
can be sanded by
turning the work
180° and putting it
through a second
time. The size of a
wide belt sander is
determined by the
width of its feed
table. They are
available up to 60”
wide.
Potential Hazards (and their Mitigation):
• Dust or debris/ work piece in the eyes (Wear eye protection)
• Getting hair/clothing caught in the belt (Tie hair back, no loose clothing)
• Getting fingers drawn into the machine (Keep fingers away from feed belt; be aware of
emergency stop devices)
• Breathing wood dust (Be sure dust collector is turned on)
Safety Rules:
1. Wear eye protection.
2. Do not do any unauthorized operations on the wide belt sander.
3. Make adjustments only when the machine is at a dead stop.
4. Make sure that no one but the operator is inside the operator’s safety zone.
5. No jewelry or long sleeve clothing. Long hair must be tied back.
40

6. Keep fingers a safe distance from the feed belt. Always maintain a 4” margin of safety.
7. Stock dimension restrictions: 1/8” thickness minimum; 15” wide maximum single pass,
30” wide double pass.
8. Be sure the compressed air valve is open before setting up the machine.
9. Be sure belt is fully on top roller before securing belt in place (with lever). This usually
requires squeezing belt together to clear fittings when installing.
10. Be sure dust collector is on and dust gate is open before operating machine.
11. Do not operate machine with side access doors open.
12. All set-ups must be inspected by the instructor before machine is turned on.
13. Set feed table height so stock fits snugly under infeed roller.
14. Do not jam workpiece into machine during operation. Ease workpiece into machine
under front roller using light pressure.
15. Do not sand any stock thinner than 1/8”. Do not sand stock any shorter than 12”.
16. Do not attempt to sand thin stock by using a “dummy”, or backer board under
workpiece.
17. No used lumber. Use only clean lumber, free of fasteners, checks, loose knots, sand, and
paint.
18. Never sand more than one piece of stock at a time.
19. Raise conveyor feed table 1/8 turn (1/64”) for each setting (like compass directions).
20. Watch load gauge when feeding work. Needle should not go into red zone.
21. Do not stand directly behind conveyor feed table when operating machine.
22. Do not leave the machine running unattended.
23. Be sure power is turned off before changing belt.
24. Turn off power and air valve before leaving machine.
Methods of Operation:
1. Turn work 180° and feed through a second time before raising feed table again.
2. Change sanding grits incrementally (80, 100, 150) for best results.
3. If burn marks appear, sanding belt is dull and should be replaced.
4. Clean wide belt sander with brush.
41

Compressed Air Hoses
The compressed air hoses are used to operate the finish spray equipment and the nail guns, both
of which are to be used by Advanced Wood Technology students only (under instructor
supervision). All Wood Technology students are allowed to use the compressed air to carefully
blow dust off of their projects prior to applying a finish, and to clean their clothing at the end of
class, after tool pick-up and shop clean-up have been completed, and subject to the following
rules.
1. Obtain permission from instructor before using compressed air.
2. Always wear eye protection when using compressed air as dust and debris may blow
back in your face.
3. When using compressed air to clean off projects, be sure no other student is around
you, and direct air in a downward direction.
4. Do not blow compressed air in the direction of another person. Do not blow
compressed air into your or anyone else’s ears, nose, or mouth.
5. The compressed air hose is a tool that can cause serious injury if improperly used.
6. Notify instructor if leaks or worn hose and couplings are detected.
7. Retract hose onto its reel when done..
42

Appendix 1
Glossary of Wood Related Terms
A
Adhesive: A substance used to hold other materials together. (Ch. 16)
Antikickback pawls: Finger-like protective devices behind the blade of a table saw that resist the
tendency of the saw to throw the stock upwards and toward the operator. (Ch. 22)
Arbor: The shaft that holds the saw blade on a table saw. (Ch. 22)
Auger bit: Drilling tool with a point and an upwardly spiraled surface around its body that carries
cut materials up and out of the hole as it turns. Used in braces, power drills, and drill presses.
(Ch. 6, 27)
B
Backing board: A true, smooth board at least ¾ inch thick, placed over thin stock being surfaced
on a planer. (Ch. 20)
Backsaw: Handsaw that has a very thin blade with fine teeth. Used to make fine cuts both across
and with the grain. (Ch. 4)
Band clamp: (Web clamp) A nylon strap that tightens around projects. Used when gluing up
multi-sided projects. (Ch. 16)
Band saw: Versatile cutting machine with a blade that is a steel band which revolves around an
upper and a lower wheel. Used mostly for cutting curves, circles, and irregular shapes. (Ch. 24)
Bar clamp: (Cabinet clamp) Device used when gluing up large surfaces edge to edge and for
clamping parts together during assembly. (Ch. 16)
Belt sander: Portable power tool with a replaceable abrasive belt that is turned around two
rollers. Used to perform rough sanding tasks such as removing mast wood, and fine finishing
tasks. (Ch 7)
Bevel or Bevel cut: Angled cut, other than a right angle, made along the edge or end of the stock.
(Ch. 4, 21, 25)
Bill of materials: Complete list of materials, fasteners, and accessories needed for a project. (Ch.
3)
Biscuit: Football-shaped piece of wood installed in a joint to strengthen it. (Ch. 8)
Biscuit joint: Wood joint strengthened by a biscuit. (Ch. 8)
Bit: Small cutting tool used with a brace, drill, or router. (Ch 28)
Board foot: A unit of measurement, equal to a 1 inch thick board, 12 inches wide and 12 inches
long. (Ch. 3)
Brace: A hand tool used to hold and drive an auger bit to drill holes. (Ch. 6)
Brad point bit: Drilling tool with a spirally threaded tip and sharp cutting spurs. (Ch. 27)
Builder’s level: (Optical level) Instrument used when laying out a building site for construction.
It has a telescope that is fixed in a horizontal position. (Ch. 35)
Butt joint: Type of joint in which the edge, end, or face surface of one piece of wood in joined
with the edge, end, or face surface of another piece. (Ch. 8)
C
Caliper: Measuring tool used to measure cylindrical and flat stock. (Ch. 4)
Carbide tip: Hard, sharp end on each tooth of some saw blades and router bits. (Ch. 22)
C-clamp: Device that resembles the letter C, used for clamping small work pieces. (Ch. 16)
Chisel: A straight-edge cutting tool used to shape and trim wood. (Ch. 7)
Chuck: Device on a drill for holding twist drills and bits. (Ch. 6)
43

Clamp: Device used to hold glued materials together while adhesive sets and to hold work pieces
in place during processing. (Ch. 16)
Claw Hammer: Hand tool used in nailing. The claw is used to remove nails from wood. (Ch. 5)
Clear cutting: Logging method in which all trees in a given area are removed. (Ch. 1)
Clip: (Snipe) Undesirable but avoidable small, concave cut made by a planer at the end of the
stock.
Combination Square: Versatile measuring tool that can be used as a square, marker, level, rule,
or gauge. (Ch. 4)
Compass saw: Handsaw with a narrow, pointed blade, used for sawing curves or irregular
shapes. (Ch. 4)
Compound angle: A beveled miter cut. (Ch. 25)
Computer-aided drafting: (CAD) Software used in creating drawings and product plans on a
computer. (Ch. 1)
Computer-aided manufacturing: (CAM) System in which a CAD drawing is sent directly to a
computerized machine that then makes the part. (Ch. 1)
Computer numerical control: (CNC) Manufacturing system that involves the use of computers
and a numerical code to control the machines use to make parts for products. (Ch. 1)
Coniferous: Describes cone-bearing trees. (Ch. 1)
Coping saw: Handsaw with a U-shaped frame and a replaceable blade with ripsaw-like teeth,
used for cutting internal and external shapes in thin wood. (Ch. 4)
Countersink: A bit or drill used to cut a recess in a surface for setting the head of a screw flush
with or below the surface. (Ch. 15)
Crosscut: Cut made across the wood grain to cut stock to length. (Ch. 4)
Cross-lap joint: Joint formed by removing equal amounts of material from the area of contact on
two pieces to be joined and fitting the pieces together so the surfaces are flush. (Ch. 11)
D
Dado: A channel or a grove cut across the grain of wood. (Ch. 10)
Dado joint: Type of joint formed by cutting a dado across one board to receive the end of another
board. (Ch. 10)
Danish oil: A clear finish that penetrates, seals, and preserves wood surfaces. (Ch. 32)
Deciduous: Describes trees that shed their leaves with cold or dry seasons. (Ch. 1)
Dimension: Actual size measurement used when laying out and building a project. (Ch. 3)
Disc sander: A flat, round platen (Plate) on which a sanding disc is mounted. As it rotates, the
work piece is pressed against the downward moving side. (Ch. 7) See also Stationary disc sander.
(Ch. 29)
Dovetail joint: A strong, interlocking joint formed by fitting a dovetail-shaped tenon into a
matching socket. Often used in drawer construction. (Ch. 14)
Dovetail saw: Handsaw with a narrow blade and fine teeth, used for extreamly accurate work.
(Ch. 4)
Dowel: Wood or plastic pin placed in matching holes in the two pieces of a joint to make it
stronger. (Ch. 8)
Doweling jigs: Drilling accessories attached to the edge of stock to identify hole locations and
guide the drill to cut straight, perpendicular dowel holes. (Ch. 6, 8)
Drill press: Machine used primarily for drilling holes at various diameters and depths and at
various angles. With appropriate jigs or setups, it can also be used for mortising and sanding.
(Ch. 27)
E
Edge butt joint: See Edge joint. (Ch. 8)
Edge joint: Type of joint in which edges of stock are glued together to form a single piece with a
larger face surface. (Ch. 8, 16)
44

End butt joint: Joint formed by connecting the end of one piece to the face surface, edge, or end
of the second piece. (Ch. 8)
End grain: The closely packed tips of cut wood fibers revealed when stock is cut across the grain.
(Ch. 7)
Engineered wood: Strong, long-lasting manufactured materials made from sawdust or small
wood pieces and plastics. (Ch. 1)
Epoxy cement: A two-part adhesive that can be used with most materials. (Ch. 16)
F
Face planning: (Surfacing) Planing the surfaces to true up stock. (Ch. 21)
Faceplate turning: Lathe operation in which stock is mounted and rotated on a metal disk
(Faceplate) for shaping. (Ch. 30)
FAS: Label meaning “Firsts and Seconds” placed on the top grade of hardwood. (Ch. 1)
Featherboard: A piece of lumber with a series of saw kerfs on one end, used to hold narrow stock
against the rip fence when making a rip cut with a table saw. (Ch. 22)
Filler: Paste applied to open-grained woods to close the pores. (Ch. 31)
Finishing nail: The finest of all nails. Used for fine cabinet and construction work. (Ch. 5)
Fitch: Ordered bundle of veneer slices cut from a single log. (Ch. 19)
Forstner Bit: A drilling tool used to cut flat-bottomed holes. It has a circular cutting edge with no
screw tip extending below it. (Ch. 27)
G
Gloss: Amount of surface brightness of finishes. (Ch. 33)
Gouge: A chisel with a curved blade. (Ch. 30)
Grit: The size of the grains on abrasive paper. (Ch. 7)
H
Hand drill: Tool used with twist drills to drill small holes. It is operated by turning a crank. (Ch.
6)
Hand plane: Cutting tool used to shape and smooth stock. (Ch. 7)
Hardwood: Wood cut from deciduous trees, such as maple and oak. (Ch. 1)
Headstock: Part of a wood lathe that is permanently fastened to the bed. (Ch. 30)
Hole saw: Drilling tool used for cutting large holes. It comes in sizes up to 6 inches. (Ch. 27)
I
Infeed roll: Part of a planner that grips the stock and moves it toward the cutterhead. (Ch. 20)
Infeed table: Part of a jointer or planer that supports the work before it is cut. It is raised or
lowered to adjust the depth of the cut. (Ch. 21)
J
Jack plane: Planing tool used for general planning. (Ch. 7)
Jigsaw: (Saber Saw) Portable power saw used for making both curved and straight cuts in hardto-reach
places. (Ch. 4)
Jointer: A machine used to true up stock. The operator can straighten, smooth, square up, and
size boards to be accurately formed. (Ch. 21)
K
Kerf: Cut made by a saw. (Ch. 4)
Kickback: A sudden, violent thrust upward and back that the stock can make under certain
circumstances during processing. Precautions are care must be taken to avoid it. (Ch. 21)
Knot: Hard lump in lumber formed at the point where a branch begins to extend out from a tree.
(Ch. 31)
L
Lacquer: A clear finishing material that dries quickly and produces a hard finish. (Ch. 32)
Laminate: A material made up of several different layers that are firmly united together. (Ch. 18)
Layout: Measuring and marking stock to size and shape. (Ch. 3)
45

Level: Tool used to check a horizontal surface to see if it is level or a vertical surface to see if it
is plumb. (Ch. 4)
M
Marquetry: (Inlaying) A way of forming a design by using two or more different kinds of wood
that have a marked contrast in color or grain pattern. (Ch. 26) Also, the setting of a material into
a surface as a decoration. (Ch. 28)
Materials list: complete listing of all materials needed for a construction project. Includes sizes,
amounts, and other information. (Ch. 34)
Mill marks: Uniform ridges on planed lumber that must be smoothed before finishing. (Ch. 31)
Miter or Miter cut: Angled cut across the face of stock. (Ch. 4, 25)
Miter box: A device used to guide a handsaw to make a cut through a piece of wood at a set
angle from 30 to 90 degrees. (Ch. 12)
Miter joint: An angled joint that hides the end grain of both pieces. (Ch. 12)
Molding: A narrow strip of wood shaped to a uniform curved profile throughout its length. Used
to conceal a joint or to ornament furniture or a room interior. (Ch. 1)
Mortise: A rectangular hole cut in wood to receive a tenon that is the same size and shape as the
hole. (Ch. 13)
Mortise-and-tenon joint: A very strong joint formed by fitting a projecting piece of wood (tenon)
into a hole of the same dimensions (mortise) cut in another piece. Often used in fine furniture.
(Ch. 13)
Multispur bit: Drilling tool used in a drill press to cut perfectly round, flat-bottomed holes. Its
semicircular leading edge has saw teeth, and a single cutter extends from the edge to the center.
(Ch. 27)
N
Nail set: A short metal punch with a cup-shaped head, used to drive the head of a nail below the
surface of wood. (Ch. 5)
O
Open-coat sandpaper: Abrasive paper on which grains of abrasives are spaced far apart. Used
mostly for working with softwoods. (Ch. 7)
Orbital sander: Portable power sander that uses a circular motion. (Ch. 7)
Oscillating spindle sander: A machine that moves a sanding drum up and down and spins it at the
same time. The work piece is pressed against the moving drum. Useful for sanding curved and
irregularly shaped edges. (Ch. 29)
P
Parting tool: Lathe tool used to cut grooves and to cut away stock during faceplate turning. (Ch.
30)
Phillips-head screwdriver: Hand tool made for driving crossed-head screws. (Ch. 15)
Plane iron: Adjustable bade in a plane that does the cutting. (Ch. 7)
Planer: (Surfacer) Machine designed to surface boards to thickness and to smooth rough-cut
lumber. (Ch. 20)
Plug cutter: Drilling tool for cutting cross-grain and end-grain plugs and dowels up to 3 inches
long. (Ch. 27)
Plumb: Straight up and down. (Ch. 4)
Plywood: Sheet material made by gluing thin layers (plies) of wood together. (Ch. 1)
Polyurethane varnish: A basic type of varnish. (Ch. 32)
Pressure bar: Part of a planer that holds stock against the table. (Ch. 20)
Pushblock or Pushstick: A wood block or stick used to move stock through a cutting machine.
When using a jointer, it is held with one hand as the other hand holds the front of the stock down.
(Ch. 21) When using a table saw, a pushstick is used to push the stock past the blade if the space
between the saw blade and the fence is 6 inches or less. (Ch. 22)
46

Miter or Miter cut: A device used to guide a handsaw to make a cut through a piece of wood at a
set angle from 30 to 90 degrees. (Ch. 12)
R
Rabbet: An L-shaped cut along the end or edge of a board. (Ch. 9, 14)
Rabbet joint: Type of joint formed by fitting the end or edge of one piece into a rabbet cut at the
end or edge of another piece. (Ch. 9)
Rail: Horizontal part of a chair or table frame. (Ch. 14)
Random-orbit sander: A variation of the orbital sander that uses both a circular motion and a
side-to-side motion at the same time. (Ch. 7)
Reciprocating saw: Portable power saw having a back-and-forth motion, used mainly for rough
cutting. (Ch. 4)
Resawing: Sawing stock to reduce its thickness. (Ch. 24)
Rip cut: Cut made with the grain to cut stock width. (Ch. 4, 22)
Rip fence: Part on a table saw or circular saw used to guide a work piece straight through the saw
blade. (Ch. 4, 22)
Ripsaw: Handsaw for cutting with the grain. Used to cut stock to width. (Ch. 4)
Roundnose tool: Flat turning chisel with a rounded cutting edge. (Ch. 30)
Router: Versatile power tool that uses different types of bits to cut dadoes, rabbets, and grooves
and to perform joinery, mortising, planning, and shaping processes. (Ch. 28)
Router bit: Tool fastened into a router that does the cutting. (Ch. 28)
Rule: Measuring tool marked off in equal units (graduations). (Ch. 4)
S
Sanding: Process of smoothing wood by rubbing it with an abrasive. (Ch. 7)
Sanding drum: Cylindrical sanding attachment for a drill press or an oscillating spindle sander.
(Ch. 27, 29)
Scale: Proportion used in drawing. A smaller measurement can represent a larger measurement
and vice versa. (Ch. 3)
Screwdriver bit: Bit used in a power drill to drive screws. (Ch. 15)
Scroll saw: (Jigsaw) Machine with an up-and-down cutting action, designed to cut sharp curves
and angles on both the outsider edges and the interior sections of a work piece. (Ch. 26)
Skew: Lathe tool that has a tapered cutting edge. (Ch. 30)
Sliding compound miter saw: Power tool that can cut two angled surfaces at the same time. It can
make slide cuts as well as cutting downs and through. (Ch. 25)
Sliding T-bevel: Measuring tool that has an adjustable blade in the handle. Used for laying out
all angles other than right angles. (Ch. 4)
Smooth plane: Planing tool used for general planing and finish work. (Ch. 7)
Softwood: Wood from coniferous trees, such as pine and redwood. (Ch. 1)
Solvent: Liquid that dissolves another substance. Used to thin finishing materials and to clean
brushes after use. (Ch. 31)
Spade bit: Fast-cutting drilling tool used for cutting general purpose holes. (Ch. 27)
Spindle turning: Turning between centers on a lathe. (Ch. 30)
Splitter: (Kerf splitter) Device or part that prevents wood being cut with the grain from closing
behind the kerf and binding the blade. (Ch. 4, 22)
Spur: (live center) Part of a wood lathe fastened to the headstock spindle. (Ch. 30)
Square: Tool used for checking the squareness (right angles) of stock, cuts, or joined pieces. (Ch.
4)
Staining: Applying transparent or semitransparent liquids made from dyes, pigments, and/or
chemicals to change the color of wood without changing its texture. (Ch. 32)
Standard screwdriver: Regular screwdriver used to install slotted-head screws. (Ch. 15)
Stile: A vertical side piece in the frame of a paneled door. (Ch. 14)
47

Straightedge: Any tool or object, such as a board, along which a straight line can be drawn. (Ch.
4)
T
Table saw: Cutting machine with a fixed, horizontal table and an adjustable blade. Used for
ripping and crosscutting boards. (Ch. 22)
Tailstock: Part of a wood lathe that slides along and can be locked in any position on the bed.
(Ch. 30)
Tang: The non-cutting end of an auger bit that is fastened into a brace. (Ch. 6)
Template: A pattern used when forming or shaping a work piece. (Ch. 28)
Tenon: A projecting piece of wood sized and shaped to fit into a mortise cut in another piece of
wood. (Ch. 13)
Through mortise: A hole cut all the way through a piece of wood and used to receive a tenon.
(Ch. 13)
Turning: A cutting operation on a lathe in which the work piece is revolved against a singleedged
tool. (Ch. 30)
Twist drill: Drilling tool that has a deep spiraling groove running from tip to shank. (Ch. 6, 27)
U
Utility knife: Sharp tool used for accurate marking and some cutting tasks. (Ch. 4)
V
Veneer: A thin layer of wood of good quality that adds beauty and character to furniture and
other wood projects. (Ch. 16, 19)
Veneering: The process of applying a thin layer of fine wood, called veneer, to the surface of a
wood of lesser quality. (Ch. 19)
W
Warp: Any variation in a board from a true, or plane, surface. Includes crooked, bow, cup, wind
(twist), or any combination of these. (Ch. 7)
48

Appendix 2
Instructions on How to Add and Label Your Own Machine Photographs
In order to tailor this manual to your specific machinery, directions are given below on how to
create and label photographs to replace those in the manual. The document is in Microsoft Word
format, and all photographs are in jpg format. If you would like an electronic version of this
manual, email Don Dupont: donaldupont@gmail.com
All photographs are taken digitally in black and white mode and at relatively low resolution
(1600 x 1200 pixels; approximately 374KB). This is done in order to keep the document size
small enough to easily manipulate and send by email. When taking photographs to include in
your manual, try to keep them at approximately this size. In some photos, I used some 1/8”
plywood sheets as a backdrop to eliminate background clutter and distractions.
Labeling is done is Adobe Photoshop or Photoshop Elements. For this information I am grateful
to Tony Fortner the staff at the Cerritos College woodworking program.
Begin by opening Photoshop or Photoshop Elements. Close the welcome screen and go to File
and Open. This is where you locate and open your photo file. How you do this depends on what
system you’re using. I use a Mac and iPhoto, and I need only type in the name of the photo file
in the search window to bring it up on the screen. Ignore the Embedded Profile Mismatch
window that asks how you want to proceed and discard the embedded profile and continue. Once
you have your photo in Photoshop, you can then begin to label it. Labeling is done using the Text
button (the button with the capital T). Click on this and it will allow you to select the size and
color of the letters you will use. The labels in this document were created using regular Arial
font, 40 pt., justified left, in black. All first letters of the words in the labels are capitalized. Once
you have typed the label, you can then move it to an appropriate location by left clicking and
dragging it. The labels are best located on a light background to be visible. Continue creating and
locating all the labels. To create a second label, you will need to click on another button to
“reset” the text button to make it activated for your next label. You can also click on any existing
label to re-activate the move function and relocate the label.
Once the labels are created, arrows must be added for clarity. This is done using he line tool,
which looks like a backslash. Once you click on this, you can select the weight of the line (I used
.06), and the add arrowheads by clicking on the down arrow at the right of the line tool toolbar
and selecting “end of line” for the position of the arrowhead. Once you’ve done this, it is simply
a matter of clicking and dragging in any direction to create the arrows. Of course, you can
change the color if you wish, but in this document I have tried, for clarity, to be consistent, using
black throughout.
Once you have completed the labeling, save your photograph as a jpg file to an appropriate
folder, giving it a recognizable name so you can then insert it into the document.
To replace a photograph in the document, simply click on the photograph and delete it. Then you
may insert your own replacement photograph by going to the Insert menu, selecting From File,
and selecting your saved labeled photograph. Once you’ve inserted you own photograph,
clicking on it will bring up the Formatting menu. Select Format Picture, Layout, and then Tight
in order to have the text wrap around the photograph. You can also make the picture smaller by
selecting Picture and cropping it for a better fit, or make the entire photograph smaller by
shrinking it from a corner box. Once you become familiar with the processes, it takes very little
time to make these changes. If you encounter any difficulties, your resident tech or digital
photography instructor should be able to help.
49