Domaine Weinbach - Vineyard Brands

November-December 2012
Domaine Weinbach
“‘In 2010, a generally cool vintage, you might say that we had fall in the
summer and winter in the fall,’ Catherine Faller told me in September. ‘And
due to berry shatter, the average yield at the domaine was an extremely low 22
hectoliters per hectare, but at least those berries that were on the vine managed
to reach full maturity. Had there been a large volume of grapes on the vines,
the raisins would never have ripened properly otherwise.’ How different were
2010 and 2011? ‘As an example, we began harvesting on September 18 in
2011, while it was October 6 in 2010.’ Catherine Faller describes 2011 as ‘a
meaty vintage with fine minerality and good fruit; there’s clearly less acidity
than in 2010 yet the wines show very nice balance.’ The domain is now
officially biodynamic as of the 2010 vintage. According to Catherine, the wines
are currently being made by her son Théo and assistant winemaker Ghislain
Berthiot, who worked for years with Catherine’s sister Laurence, the longtime
winemaker of the domain who is currently enjoying a leave of absence being
a mother. Although the wines at Domaine Weinbach are still among the best
in Alsace, Laurence Faller is one of the world’s most gifted white winemakers,
and my hope is that she will soon be back working with the team.
2011 Sylvaner Réserve
Pale green. Fresh herbs, mint and coriander complicate green apple on the nose
and palate. Brisk, lively wine with a bright, persistent finish. From 35-year-old
vines on sandy loamy soils in the Clos in front of the house. 88
2011 Pinot Blanc Réserve
(70% auxerrois and 30% pinot blanc): Bright straw. Auxerrois-typical nuances
of butter, spices and herbs complement apple and pear on the nose and palate.
Lively, chewy and firm, with lime, apple and mineral flavors that are bracing
but not hard. Finishes bright and moderately long. 87
2011 Muscat Réserve
(70% muscat ottonel and 30% muscat d’Alsace): Bright straw color. Grapefruit
and rose on the nose. Clean and easygoing, with attractive floral lift to the
citrus and spice flavors. Could use a touch more concentration and complexity.
There were only 3,000 bottles produced in 2011--and even fewer (900!) in
2010. 88
2011 Riesling Cuvée Théo
Bright straw. White stone fruits and flowers on the nose and palate. Displays
lively acid lift for such a hot hear, with the zesty, persistent finish featuring a
lingering note of lime. From 33-year-old vines in the Clos. 88
2011 Riesling Schlossberg
Bright straw. Deep aromas of stone fruits, minerals and flowers. Bright and
juicy on entry, then firm in the middle, with aromatic inner-mouth flavors of
grapefruit, white peach, mint, spices and wet stone. Finishes pure and long,
with considerable mineral tang. These grapes come from the highest part of the
granitic slope of the grand cru. 91(+?)
2011 Riesling Cuvée Ste. Catherine
Bright straw. Rich aromas of passion fruit, mango and stones. Then sweet and
clean in the mouth, with very pure and balanced flavors of peach, tropical fruit
and wet stone. Refined yet structured on the long, suave finish. 91(+?)
2011 Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine
Bright pale green. Apple and pear, minerals and white peach on the perfumed
nose. Very pure on the palate, with enamel-shattering acidity framing the
intense white stone fruit, apple and mineral flavors. Offers a wonderful
combination of refinement and power. Made from 40-to-60-year-old vines
located in midslope of this famous grand cru. 93(+?)
2011 Riesling Cuvée Ste. Catherine L’Inedit
Bright pale green. Lime and white flowers on the nose, with nuances of
crystallized ginger. Very sweet on entry, then more austere in the middle, with
lively acidity lifting the concentrated peach nectar and quince flavors. This fruit
bomb offers compellingly sucrosite and superb palate presence--and a long,
velvety finish. This was made from 60-year-old vines and 10% botrytized
grapes. According to Cathy Faller, the wine has “a baroque attack but a gothic
finish. 94(+?)
2011 Pinot Gris Cuvée Ste. Catherine
Full straw-yellow. Resin and custard complicate pear and apple on the nose.
Very concentrated and already irresistible, with compellingly pure tropical fruit
and delicate smoky flavors framed and extended by lively, ripe acidity. Finishes
with terrific cut and grip and noteworthy length. About 15% of the grapes
were hit by noble rot in 2011. This is just begging for a risotto with porcini. 91
2011 Pinot Gris Altenbourg
Pale yellow-gold. Aromas of lemon, pineapple, spices and fresh herbs. Honeyed
and full in the mouth, with peach and lime flavors dominating. Finishes bright
and persistent. 89
2011 Gewurztraminer Réserve Personnelle
(from 25-year-old vines in the Clos): Bright yellow. Archetypical gewurz
aromas and flavors of lime, tropical fruit and vanilla, plus a note of smoky
bacon. Smooth and suave on the palate, with harmonious acidity lifting the
rich flavors on the very long finish. 90
2011 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvée Laurence
(from the marly calcareous soils of the lower parts of the Altenbourg, which
also feature some sand): Bright, gold-tinged yellow. Captivating aromas of
orange peel, mango, flowers and cinnamon. Creamy, superconcentrated and
deep, with unctuous flavors of lichee and mango nectar given precision by
harmonious acidity and a note of blood orange. As large-scaled and fat as
this wine is, it manages to maintain an element of refinement. This would go
perfectly with smoked salmon or Indian cuisine. 92
2011 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg
Straw-yellow. Bright aromas of smoked sausage, tropical fruit cocktail and
cinnamon. Less massive than the Laurence but more elegant, offering flavors
of honeyed apricot, cinnamon apple, smoky minerals and wet earth. Finishes
smooth and long, with repeating notes of papaya and mango. 91(+?)
2011 Gewurztraminer Furstentum
Bright yellow-gold. Pink grapefruit, candied orange peel and smoked pork on
the nose. Then rich and deep on the palate, with noteworthy lift and precision
to the flavors of tropical fruits, minerals and flowers. Offers superb richness
and depth, as well as enough acidity to give shape to the wine. Impressively
balanced and very long. 93
2010 Sylvaner Réserve
Dark straw-gold. Tropical fruit aromas are complemented by chamomile and
tea leaf on the rich, ripe nose. Similarly rich and ripe on the palate but kept
fresh and firm by enamel-rattling acidity (8.9 g/l!). The long finish features
a note of honey. These grapes were harvested on October 10, which is very
late for sylvaner. This very good if rather atypical sylvaner magically combines
depth of flavor with freshness and complexity. Though nobody will ever
mistake it for a riesling (it can’t match the nobility of that variety), this lovely
sylvaner makes for a highly satisfying glass of wine, and will match perfectly
with anything involving asparagus or artichokes. 89
2010 Pinot Blanc Réserve
Pale straw-green. Bright aromas of lemon, sea breeze, cinnamon and sweet
butter. Then almost surprisingly rich, ripe and honeyed in the mouth, finishing
with a strong note of tangerine. 88
2010 Muscat Réserve
Bright straw. Explosive aromas of grapefruit, mango, papaya and flowers. Then
bright and lively on the palate, with juicy tropical fruit flavors and noteworthy
inner-mouth energy. Reportedly from a yield of just 10 hectoliters per hectare.
89
2010 Riesling Cuvée Théo
Bright straw. Aromas of lime, orange and mint are complicated by honey,
flowers and a sexy note of ginger. Saline and thick, with a leesy, almost
Champagne-like quality to its citrus fruit flavors. In a rather masculine style
and very dense for this bottling. Finishes saline, dry and long. Excellent balance
here. 89(+?)
Imported by Vineyard Brands Vineyard Brands Selections www.vineyardbrands.com WNB198

2010 Riesling Schlossberg
Bright straw-green. Reticent aromas of crushed and wet stone, pineapple and ripe
nectarine; began a bit muted but gained in precision as the wine opened in the glass.
Broad and opulent in the mouth, but a firm, even youthfully edgy acid spine gives
shape and structure to the stone fruit flavors and buffers the wine’s slight sweetness.
A tad phenolic on the chewy back end, but this wine harmonized nicely with a bit of
air. 91(+?)
2010 Riesling Cuvée Ste. Catherine
Bright straw-green. Very perfumed nose of flowers (iris, peony), tangerine, pineapple
and crystallized ginger; showing a bit more lift today than the Schlossberg, even if
this wine is from lower on the hillside. Then rich and suave on the palate, with an
opulent mouthfeel to the flavors of stone fruits, nutmeg and mace. Finishes long and
smooth, with a ripe apricot flavor complicated by minerals and spices. An excellent
showing, and built for aging. According to Cathy Faller, this needs about three more
years of bottle age to enter its optimal drinking phase. 92(+?)
2010 Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine
Bright golden yellow. Slightly high-toned aromas of crystallized lemon peel,
tangerine, mirabelle, honey and wild herbs, plus hints of toasty lees and brown
spices. Broad and mouthfilling without coming across as heavy, but more exotic
than the “regular” Schlossberg--less precise and stony today. This wine is presently
a bit austere in its alcoholic power and will need to time in bottle to mellow and
harmonize. I’d forget about it for at least seven or eight years. 92(+?)?
2010 Pinot Gris Cuvée Ste. Catherine
Medium yellow. Peach flesh, butter and a hint of tropical fruits on the almost
chardonnay-like nose (5% of these grapes were hit by noble rot). Fat, silky and
sweet--in fact, almost unctuous (14.5% alcohol on the label)--but with sound spicy
acidity framing and extending the strawberry, peach and nectarine flavors. Saline
and spice notes on the back give this wine a fairly dry finish. 89
2010 Pinot Gris Altenbourg
Bright yellow. Wild, exotic aromas of tropical fruits, apricot, caramelized pear
and cinnamon apple. Silky, fat and sweet on entry, then racy acidity gives the
mid-palate a firmer feel and more tension than the Cuvée Ste. Catherine bottling.
Very concentrated pinot gris with a tactile, umami-like texture. A high-wire act of
substantial sweetness (31.3 g/l) and brisk acidity (8 g/l). Finishes very long and pure,
gaining in firmness with air. 91(+?)
2010 Gewurztraminer Réserve Personnelle
Pale medium yellow. Classic if subdued aromas of tropical fruits, smoky bacon,
cinnamon oil and lichee. Intensely flavored and fairly dry, with a tactile mouthfeel
and enticing spicy perfume. Nicely balanced, concentrated wine but a tad warm on
the back end. Maintains a reasonably light touch but could use more nuance. 88
2010 Gewurztraminer Cuvée Théo
Bright straw-yellow. Clean aromas of fresh peach, nectarine, licorice and spices,
plus a hint of yellow flowers; shows more lift than the Réserve Personnelle. Silky
in texture, with sneaky complexity to the stone fruit, spice, lime sorbet and mineral
flavors. Sound acidity (actually 6.7 g/l, which is fairly high for gewurztraminer in
general, and one of the highest in acidity among the 2010 gewurzes at Domaine
Weinbach) gives grip to the fairly dry, lingering, lightly saline back end. 90
2010 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvée Laurence
Bright yellow. Explosive yet elegant nose of pineapple, candied ginger, marzipan
and spices. Much sweeter than the Cuvée Theo but suave as well, with a lovely
restrained character to the floral, meaty and spice qualities. Boasts excellent volume
and breadth and finishes with excellent spicy, peppery length and a firm edge. At
once rich and stylish. 91
2010 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg
Full yellow-straw. Piquant spicy lift to the aromas of peach, honey and botanical
herbs. Quite sweet and silky but not at all heavy thanks to harmonious acidity.
Expands impressively in the mouth, spreading out to saturate the palate. In a very
mellow style and not at all exaggerated, with a positive hint of finishing bitterness
providing grip on the spicy, rising finish. 92
2010 Gewurztraminer Furstentum
Bright yellow. The stoniest of these 2010 gewurztraminers on the nose, offering
aromas of fresh apricot, spices and smoked meat. Very concentrated and rich with
extract, with substantial sweetness nicely balanced by firm acids. This seamless wine
stands out for its inner-mouth tension and grip, with its stony minerality and deep
core of spice accentuating the almost tannic impression on the plush, very fresh
finish. Built to age. 93
2009 Riesling Altenbourg Vendages Tardives
Bright yellow. Orange flower, mint and tropical fruit on the sexy nose. Then very
fresh and racy in the mouth, with refined flavors of mint, minerals and liquid slate
framing the spicy white stone fruits. Finishes suave and long, with a lovely sugar/acid
balance (123.5 g/l residual sugar and 6.85 g/l total acidity). 93
2009 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Vendanges Tardives Trie Spéciale
Bright golden yellow. Very intense aromas of passion fruit, strawberry, truffle and
caramel apple. Rich and thick on the palate but with fresh acidity framing and
extending the ripe citrus, tropical fruit and smoky creme brulée flavors through a
very long, creamy finish. This tastes like an almost SGN-level VT without much
botrytis, but the numbers--116.5 g/l residual sugar and 6.1 g/l total acidity--do not
prepare the taster for its massive mouthfeel. 93
2009 Gewurztraminer Mambourg Vendanges Tardives
Bright yellow. Very fresh aromas of ripe tropical fruits and mirabelle. Big and rich
on the palate, with an almost fat structure in the manner typical of Mambourg and
ripe, sweet (105 g/l residual sugar) tropical fruit flavors. Finishes long but a little
chunky: the lowish 4.7 g/l total acidity (and highish pH of 3.7) may explain this. 91
2009 Gewurztraminer Furstentum Vendanges Tardives
Bright straw-yellow. Spicy Oriental spice notes and honey on the enticing nose,
plus hints of bergamot and lavender. More sweet spices and ripe tropical fruit jelly
flavors on the complex palate. Very rich and pure gewurztraminer, with bright
acidity keeping it light on its feet despite its overall sweetness (99 g/l residual sugar).
Actually, the numbers don’t seem to confirm my impression of lively acidity--only
4.15 g/l total acidity (and a relatively high 3.95 pH)--and yet this lovely wine comes
off tasting balanced and fresh. 94
2009 Riesling Schlossberg Sélection de Grains Nobles (half bottle)
Bright, pale yellow-gold. Orange flower, strawberry and glazed kumquat on the
enticing nose. Pure, palate-staining flavors of cinnamon apple, pear and tea leaf carry
through to a very long, smooth aftertaste. The sugar/acid balance (136 g/l residual
sugar and 7.25 g/l total acidity) is truly compelling. Great wine. 94
2009 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Sélection de Grains Nobles
Bright yellow gold. Spices, ripe tropical fruits and vanilla bean on the perfumed
nose. Then very rich and sweet on the palate, with smoky bacon, candied mango
and mirabelle flavors lingering impressively on the back end. This big, fat wines loses
some of its gewurztraminer typicity at this level of sweetness, but it offers a major
mouthful of flavor. 94
2009 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Quintessence de Grains Nobles Cuvée d’Or
Bright yellow-gold. Headspinning aromas of tropical fruit cocktail, smoky cinnamon,
nutmeg and liquid minerals: like a TBA from the Pfalz. Then mellow and clean in
the mouth, with ripe citrus, peach and mango flavors lasting minutes on the palatestaining
finish. The high residual sugar (200 g/l) is nicely counterbalanced by 7 g/l
total acidity. Pinot gris doesn’t get much better than this! 96
2010 Gewurztraminer Mambourg Vendanges Tardives
Bright yellow. Honeyed tropical fruit and spices aroma are followed on the palate
by sweet (114 g/l residual sugar), very precise flavors of candied peach, mango and
apricot. The wine’s sound acidity (5.7 g/l) really extends the finish of this poised
wine. 93
2010 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Sélection de Grains Nobles
(142 g/l residual sugar and 5.4 g/l total acidity): Bright yellow-gold. Smoky candied
orange rind and bacon fat on the nose. Then very pure in the mouth, with ripe,
sweet, minty cinnamon and tropical fruit flavors focused by bright acidity. A touch
of excess alcohol at the back reduced my enthusiasm a bit. 90?
2010 Gewurztraminer Furstentum Sélection de Grains Nobles
Bright golden-yellow. Fabulous high-toned aromas of apricot, quince, mango and
honey, complicated by notes of cinnamon and orange liqueur. Wonderfully glyceral
yet tangy on the palate, with a chewy quality and good acid thrust to the creamy,
honeyed flavors of ripe tropical fruits and lemon curd. Outstanding might not be a
strong enough word to describe this extremely well balanced sweet wine. Check out
these numbers: 186 g/l residual sugar and 8 g/l total acidity, with a moderate 3.55
pH. 96
2010 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Quintessence de Grains Nobles Cuvée d’Or
Bright yellow-gold. Captivating aromas of spicy apple pie, dried apricot, caramelized
kumquat, marzipan and sexy botrytis on the very pure, penetrating nose. Extremely
fresh and clean, with harmonious acidity lifting the ripe tropical fruit, cinnamonspiced
apple and passion fruit flavors. This massively concentrated wine manages
to stay unbelievably graceful and balanced despite its huge richness. Its extremely
persistent lingering flavor of baked cinnamon apple and mouthwatering acidity are
unforgettable. I can best describe this wine by telling you it’s very much like a eating
a liquid tarte tatin. Get a load of these numbers: 221 g/l residual sugar, 10.6 g/l total
acidity, 3.4 pH and only 9.5% alcohol. 98(+?)”
WNB198