Hiking in the Dolomiti Near Cortina d'Ampezzo by Steve Ford These ...

Hiking in the Dolomiti Near Cortina d'Ampezzo 

by Steve Ford 

These hiking directions were originally provided by Jorg Wiltz of OnTop Mountaineering. OnTop 

specializes in custom guided trips for climbers and other adventurers. Originally we were 

attracted to the Dolomite mountains of northeastern Italy by the spectacular scenes of the Via 

Ferrata treks that are one of OnTop's specialties. We are avid hikers, but we don't have quite 

the right constitution for the level of exposure presented by Via Ferrata routes. So we asked 

OnTop to provide us hiking directions that would guide us into some of the same spectacular 

areas on more "tame" terrain. OnTop provided a comprehensive plan, including the hiking 

directions, rifugio and hotel bookings, and taxi arraignments. We are very happy with the plan 

they provided, and this document includes their hiking directions as well as our photos and 

commentary on our experiences. 

We spent 8 days and 7 nights in the Cortina 

d'Ampezzo area in late September and had the 

good fortune to have absolutely beautiful 

weather. We were also happy to discover that 

the crowds who frequent this area in the 

summer and winter seasons had substantially 

diminished at this time. 

To put our comments in context, I will provide a 

little info on our physical condition. We, Ellen 

and I, are both 59. Neither of us is in tip top 

physical condition, but as I said, we are avid 

hikers and we do make an effort to stay active. 

In anticipation of this hike we did a number of 

"training" hikes in the Pacific Northwest where 

we live. Note: At her request, no recognizable 

photos of Ellen are shown. 

Our Itinerary 

Steve (Ellen cropped out at her request) 

Day 1 Arrive Cortina, stay at Hotel Villa Alpina 

Day 2 Taxi to Malga Ra Stua, then hike to Rifugio Lavarella 

Day3 Rifugio Lavarella to Rifugio Lagazuoi 

Day 4 Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Croda da Lago 

Day 5 Hike back into Cortina, stay at Hotel Villa Alpina 

Day 6 Taxi to Rifugio Aronzo, then hike to the Buellelejoch Hut 

Day 7 Return to Rifugio Aronzo via a different route, return to Cortina by Taxi and stay at Hotel 

Villa Alpina 

OnTop recommended a different exit route which we did not use because it was longer 

and we were a bit foot-sore. 

Day 8 Breakfast at the Hotel Villa Alpina, then depart Cortina. 

Our package included Breakfast at the Hotel Villa Alpina, and half pension at the rifugios. For 

those who don't know, half pension means breakfast and dinner (with some limitations on 

choice for dinner). All of the food was great.

Day 1 - Arrive in Cortina d'Ampezzo 

No hiking, just check in to the Hotel Villa Alpina, host Elio Zardini 

Via Roma 72, I – 32043 Cortina, Italy 

phone (+39) 0436 - 24183310 

The room was quite comfortable and spacious. 

No shower, but after a long hike a nice soak in a 

tub of hot water was more to my liking anyway 

(there was this spray gizmo that you see 

everywhere in Europe that would provide a 

shower of sorts). Also, they were very 

accommodating in letting us keep our extra 

luggage at the hotel while we were hiking. 

There are several places Jorg recommends for 

dinner (all are listed in the appendix at the end). 

• We had dinner twice at Brunsin, just 

across the street and 50 meters uphill 

from the Villa Alpina Hotel. The food was 

excellent, the service was very good and 

friendly, and the prices were quite 

• 

reasonable. 

We had a lunch and a dinner at 5 Torre, 

Hotel Villa Alpina 

• 

about half way up the pedestrian walkway on the right. It's a little off the main drag, so 

you have to look for it. Great Pizza! The other food was quite good too. 

We had really great pizza at Croda, just at the beginning of the pedestrian mall in the 

main street when entering from the north (opposite end from the hotel). 

We bought lunch supplies and various other odds and ends at the Cortina Cooperativa (also 

found on the pedestrian mall), a kind of all-in-one department store / grocery store. 

We loved our taxi driver, Sandro Pompanin. 

A very friendly guy, and always very prompt. 

(+39) 336 - 494682 

sandro@transferdolomiti.it 

Note: The best maps for these hikes are by 

TABACCO (www.tabaccoeditrice.com) 

Days 2, 3, 4, & 5 - Cortina d'Ampezzo e 

Dolomiti Ampezzane, Map #03, 1:25,000 scale 

Days 6 & 7 - Sextener Dolomiten - Dolomiti di 

Sesto, Map #010, 1:25,000 scale 

They are available online from several outlets, 

and I am pretty sure they are available in 

Cortina (perhaps at the Cooperativa). 

Sandro Pompanin

Day 2 - Taxi to Malga Ra Stua, then hike to Rifugio Lavarella 

Note: OnTop's hiking directions are shown in blue text, while our commentary is in black. 

A) Sandro picked us up at 8:30 delivering us to Malga Ra Stua at 9:00. 

B) From Ra Stua (1668 m) follow the road (marked trail # 9) north for about 1 km (20 min) until 

the hiking trail # 9 departs on the left. 

This hike begins on a very easy grade through the bucolic pastures of the Ra Stua farm. 

After about 1.4 km it turns west ascending more steeply on switchbacks (~0.8km). Most of 

the trails we saw throughout this hike were exceptionally well constructed and maintained; 

this trail was an especially good example. 

C) Follow the trail west past the Fodara Lake to the Rifugio Fodara (1966 m). 

After ascending the switchbacks (30 or 40 minutes) the grade is essentially flat until just past 

Rifugio Fodara (2.0km). 

B & C - 4.2km, 298m � 

D) From Rifugio Fodara descend on the dirt road (again # 9) which will be joined by the 

Dolomites High Route 1 (marked “1” in a triangle) all the way to the Pederu Hut (1548 m). 

Just east of Rifugio Fodara is a trail that parallels the road. This trail covers perhaps 25% of 

the decent to Pederu and then reconnects with the road. The road is extremely steep and 

has many areas paved with concrete in order to facilitate car traffic (which is rare). Gravel 

on the concrete makes the footing on this road rather tricky. We found our hiking poles very 

helpful on this stretch. We used the road rather than the trail so we have no information 

about the quality of the trail, but I doubt it was worse than the road. 

The Pederu Hut can also be reached by car should the weather be very adverse, however it 

would mean a 1 hr drive from Cortina at additional cost. 

D - 2km, 418m �


E) From Pederu, you can either follow the dirt road (closed to public traffic) or the hiking trail 

marked “7” or “1” southwest all the way to the Lavarella Hut (2042 m). 

We used the trail where it was available as we found it more scenic. Shortly after passing a 

picnic bench with a Crucifix above it and rounding the bend in the road you will see some 

buildings, the furthest of Which is Rifugio Fanes. Near Fanes the road forks, stay with the 

right branch for a short distance to Rifugio Lavarella 

E - 5.8km, 494m � 

Distance: ~12 km (7.5 miles) 

Ascent: 792m (2,598 ft) 

Descent: 418m (1,371 ft) 

Time: 5.5 hours including ~1/2 hour for lunch and resting.


Photos from the hike from Malga Ra Stua to Rifugio Lavarella 

The hike begins at Malga Ra Stua. 

Almost all of the trails were very well 

maintained. This particular trail is 

exceptionally good. 

All the trails are well marked with these signs. 

Rifugio Fodara


Looking back at Rifugio Pederu at the bottom of the valley. 

The road in the foreground parallels the trail we took. A small piece of the road descending 

from Fodara to Pederu can be seen just to the right of Pederu. 

Rifugio Lavarella, a sight for sore feet. 

Lavarella had very nice private rooms.

Day 3 - Rifugio Lavarella to Rifugio Lagazuoi 

Note: If you are having trouble trying 

to figure out how to pronounce 

Lagazuoi, the phonetic spelling would 

be something like this: lagatswoy 

A) From the Lavarella Hut (2042 m) 

follow the hiking trail marked 7 and 

12 east using a couple of little 

bridges to cross creeks and little 

lakes until you hit the dirt road 

marked 11 climbing to the Passo 

de Limo (2174 m). 

B) From there it’s a casual and 

almost level trail hike south along 

trail 11 through high pasture 

meadows with grazing cows and 

horses to the junction with trail 

#20b (2117 m). 

A & B - 5.7km, 132m �, 57m �


C) Turn off of trail # 11 onto trail 20b 

and “1” to your left headed to the 

Forcella di Lago (2486 m). 

Bailout Option see Opt-1 

D) From Forcella di Lago a short but 

steep descent leads to the 

Lagazuoi Lake (2182 m). Recently 

rebuilt trail but still rock fall hazard 

– don’t linger, especially when 

walking underneath the rock face 

just before reaching the Lagazuoi 

Lake (2182). 

This is another example of a very 

well made trail, and it's a good 

thing because this is one of the 

steepest trail decents I have ever 

seen. There were a jillion 

switchbacks. The trail on the map 

in the area of Lagazuoi Lake 

doesn't quite match what we found 

when we got there, but everything 

was very well marked. 

The Lake makes for a beautiful 

pick-nick spot. 

We opted to have lunch on a bluff 

above the lake near some old 

stone structures, saving a little bit 

of decent / re-ascent. 

C & D - 3.2km, 369m �, 304m �


E) From the lake follow # 20 

(remnants of Austrian WW1 supply 

lines and cable ways visible) all 

the way to the summit of the 

Piccolo Lagazuoi (2752 m), where 

you will find the Lagazuoi Hut. 

The last bit of the trail leads along 

the Lagazuoi Ridge, which is set 

up as an open air museum and 

shows the restored positions of the 

Austrian / Tyrolean defenders 

during WW1. 

OnTop offers some optional hikes 

after arriving at Lagazuoi, 

see Opt-2. 

Distance: ~12.7 km (7.9 miles) 

Ascent: 1,071 m (3,514 ft) 

Descent: 418m (1,371 ft) 

Time: 7 hours including lunch and 

resting. 

E - 2.8km, 570m �


Photos from the hike from Rifugio Lavarella to Rifugio Lagazuoi 

Looking back at Lavarella from the crest of 

the ridge near Passo de Limo. A quick ascent. 

We didn't see any cows but these horses 

had very thick fur. 

The lovely scenery on the trail between Passo de Limo and the junction with trail #20b. 

Enjoy the flatness while you can, because once you get to trail #20b 

it's steep grades from there to Lagazuoi.


You see these trail markers everywhere. 

Looking back from Forcella di Lago 

at the trail we had just ascended. 

Just a few of the well made switchbacks 

descending to Lagazuoi Lake. 

Our lunch spot is on the far side of the lake. 

From the bottom of 20b it was clear we were 

going through this notch. It was the only 

logical way to get through. 

Looking ahead... 

We are going down THAT ?!?!?!? 

Steep!!! That's an understatement! 

Looking back at some of those switchbacks. 

A few people can be seen in the enlargement.


The scene from our lunch spot. 

After lunch we look up to see our destination, 

the gondola house at Lagazuoi. 

Now THIS is the way to relax after a long day's hike!


With scenery like this in every direction, 

Lagazuoi was the most visually spectacular place we stayed.

Day 4 - Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Croda da Lago (Palmieri) 

OnTop offers numerous route options for this day. Alternatives will be listed in the options 

section at the end of this document, the following is the hike we did: 

A) We descended from Lagazuoi via the gondola saving our knees from 3 km and 643 m 

(2,110 ft) of descent. 

B) From Falzarego Pass take 441 southeast to the Forcella Averau (2435 m), short but gravelly 

descent and contour around the south face of the Averau to the Averau Hut (2413 m). 

Careful for rock fall, there might be rock climbers in the face above you. 

The first part of this trail is quite simple, basically just hiking up what are ski slopes in the 

winter. A little ways before Forcella Averau the trail enters a couple of narrow rocky slots 

where the trail turns into a rock scramble. 

C) You could have lunch at Rifugio Averau but we strongly recommend climbing the extra 30 

minutes up to the Nuvolau summit (2575 meters) to visit the oldest hut in the Dolomites. 

Enjoy one of the best views of the range, eye to eye with the huge peaks of the Civetta and 

the Monte Pelmo immediately to the south. Say hello from us to hut keepers Mansueto and 

Giovanna Siorpaes (originally named Jo-Anne and she is from Vancouver, their daughter 

Wendy skis for the Italian National team in alpine downhill). 

We opted to keep going, and have lunch at Passo Giau (phonectic pronunciation: Jow) 

rather than going up to Rifugio Nuvolau because there were about 70 students that took that 

option and we thought it would be a bit crowded, and because we knew this would be an 

especially long day for us, so it was a way to reduce the mileage a bit. 

B - 3.5km, 330m �, 22m �


D) Descend to the south on the road (464), and then left 

onto 452 south to Passo Giau (2236 m). Again, there 

is a Rifugio at the Pass that offers food and shelter, 

should the weather be bad. 

This trail was well marked like the others, but just 

before Passo Giau the trail passes into a bolder field 

between the edge of the grassy slopes and the cliffs 

above the pass. The trail seem to split into lots of 

tributaries in the bolder field and somehow we lost 

the real trail. Seeing a microwave station just above 

the pass we knew the trail would pass by that, so we 

scrambled our way over to that and picked up the 

trail there. You may want to stay especially alert for 

those red and white stone markers in this area. 

D - 3.0, 177m � 

E) Cross the road and follow a beautiful high level variation of the Dolomites high route “1” 

southeast on trail 436 all the way to the Forcella Ambrizola via the Forcella Giau. 

This part of the route covers a lot of ground with a lot of terrain variety. The first half km is 

quite level on very benign terrain, then over the next half km it continues contouring across a 

very steep slope until arriving at Forcella de Col Piombin. From there is slowly descends 

until it turns up again for the ascent of Forcella Giau. This was a fairly short ascent, but the 

trail was muddy and slippery. With the dark clouds moving in and the poor trail conditions it 

felt a bit like we were climbing Mt. Doom and we wondered what sort of descent we might 

find on the other side of the pass. Much to our delight, we discovered a sort of high plateau 

with gently rolling pastures and a very gentle descent. Adding to the pleasant surprise the 

sun broke through just as we arrived at the top. Picture "The Sound of Music" with Julie 

Andrews whirling about on a high Tyrolean pasture. 

E - 4.9 km, 244m �, 203m �


F) A mellow descent leads us from Forcella 

Ambrizzola north on 434 (and back on the regular 

“1”) underneath the rock towers of the Croda da 

Lago (2046m) to the lake and the hut with the same 

name. 

Distance: ~13.4 km (8.3 miles) 

Ascent: 574 m (1,883 ft) 

Descent: 633 m (2,077 ft) 

Time: ~8 hours (Best guess, forgot to record duration) 

F - 2 km, 231 � 

Photos from the hike from Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Croda da Lago 

This shows the area encompassed by the hike on this day. The red line indicates the trail route 

from Passo Falzarego to Forcella Averau. The route then goes around the Averau, down to 

Passo Giau, over Forcella Giau, and finally over to the far side of Croda da Lago.


Looking back at Lagazuoi from the area near Forcella Averau. 

This army of school kids passed us just before 

we got to Rifugio Averau, and then headed for 

Rifugio Nuvolau, which is one reason we 

decided not to have lunch at Rifugio Nuvolau. 

We saw this red leaf plant pretty much 

everywhere, and this hill was completely 

covered with it. 

A signpost at Forcella Nuvolau with the 

Averau in the background. 

Looking back at the Averau and Rifugio 

Averau


We saw some climbers on Ra Gusela just before arriving at Passo Giau. 

Looking at Passo Giau and many of the features we had just hiked past. 

Looking back from Forcella Giau. Passo Giau is just out of view on the far left. 

Lagazuoi is hidden behind Ra Gusela, the large peak on the left.


After the steep and gloomy ascent of 

Forcella Giau we were delighted to find this 

lovely gently descending high pasture. 

Forcella Ambrizzola can be seen just to the 

left of the peak in the distance. 

Croda da Lago, 

after crossing Forcella Ambizzola 

Looking down from Forcella Ambrizzola toward Rigugio Croda da Lago. 

Cortina can bee seen in the distance. 

The lake. 

Rifugio Croda da Lago

Day 5 - Rifugio Croda da Lago (Palmieri) to Cortina 

A) Follow trail 431 north all the way to Rifugio Lago D’Ayal. 

The trails on this hike were generally the best constructed 

and maintained trials we have ever seen, however this 

particular trail was the worst one we saw anywhere in this 

area. Most of the trail was in fairly good condition, although 

very steep (guessing 20% to 30% grade). There was one 

section of this trail that was very badly washed out. It was 

especially steep, perhaps a 50% grade, and the washed out 

section was quite long, maybe as much as a half km. It was 

passable, but it was very slow going. 

B) From there a short distance on the 430 road and then north 

on the 428 road to Mortisa, then through fields on the way 

into Cortina. 

B - 4.4km, 262m � 

A - 4km, 634m �


Photos from the hike from Rifugio Croda da Lago to Cortina 

This trail starts out much like the others we 

saw in other areas. 

After we passed Rifugio Lago de Aial the trail 

turned into a typical well maintained road. 

The road leads us through Mortisa. 

Somewhere in the middle about a half km 

of very steep trail is badly washed out. 

We emerge from the forest to see this 

beautiful pasture land with Cortina in sight. 

Mortisa is a delightful little town.


Leaving Mortisa we see Cortina. 

Crossing the river we enter Cortina. 

This road leads into Cortina very near 

the Hotel Villa Apina. 

The view from our room in Hotel Villa Alpina. 

We were in those fields just 30 minutes earlier.

Day 6 - Rifugio Auronzo –Buellelejoch Huette (Rifugio Pian di Cengia) 

A) Sandro picked us up at 8:30 delivering us to Refugio Auronzo. 

B) From the parking lot west of Auronzo Hut, follow trail 105 (also marked as Dolomites High 

Route number 4). This trail curves around the west flank of the peaks known as Tre Cime di 

Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen). On the north side of Tre Cime the trail descends gently providing 

tremendous views of the peaks. Then a short ascent leads to Rifugio Locatelli (Drei Zinnen 

Hut), a good place for lunch. A fun little side trip might be to explore the Austrian positions 

(largely tunnels – bring a headlamp) following the “Innerkofler” via ferrata towards the 

Paternkofel (Monte Paterno) but only until the last tunnel, from where you should retrace 

your steps and certainly turn around any time, should you get uncomfortable with the terrain. 

B - 4.9 km, 126m �, 211m �


C) From Rifugio Locatelli stay on the North side of the Paternkofel (Mt. Paterno) on trail 101 to 

get to the Bullelejoch Hut (Rifugio Pian di Cengia). Bullelejoch is the smallest and for some, 

the nicest hut of the Sexten Dolomites! Hut keepers Hubert and Greti will spoil you with 

excellent tirolian cuisine! If you are given a choice to sleep in the downstairs common room, 

referred to as “notlager” = emergency dorm, you might prefer it over the regular dorm 

upstairs, which is pretty small but clean and cozy! 

For us this seemed like more of a "true" rifugio experience. All of the other rifugios we 

stayed in were significantly larger with a few more amenities, but we thought Bullelejoch was 

absolutely charming. Yes it is small, but it was a supreme example of efficient use of space. 

The ambiance was delightful, the hosts were very friendly and extraordinarily welcoming, 

and the food was some of the best we had anywhere in Italy. We had a chance to visit with 

Stephi, Hubert & Greti's daughter, a delightful young woman raised in this mountain 

paradise from the earliest months of her life. Stephi made us feel right a home in her home. 

Distance: ~8 km (5 miles) 

Ascent: 334 m (1,096 ft) 

Descent: 126 m (413 ft) 

Time: 4.75 hours (including lunch) 

C - 3.1 km, 123m �


Photos from the hike from Rifugio Auronzo to Bullelejoch Hut 

The view from the overlook where 

trail 105 has just come around the 

northwest side of Tre Cime (on the right), 

Mt. Paterno in the distance. 

Tre Cime di Lavaredo 

Another view from the same overlook.


The trail switchbacking down into the gorge on 

the left is the exit route for the following day 

that OnTop suggests (we did not go this way). 

The trail ascends just before arriving 

at Rifugio Locatelli 

Rifugio Locatelli from a distance. 

Rifugio Locatelli 

Leaving Rifugio Locatelli we see this stretch of trail 101 that contours across 

a steep slope for at least 1.5 km before ascending Forcella Pian di Cengia.


The view from trail 101. 

Ascending Forcella Pian di Cengia 

(Bullele Joch). 

Prayer flags near Bullelejoch Hut. 

The view from trail 101. 

Bullelejoch Hut or Rifugio Pian di Cengia. 

Bullelejoch Hut looks right out at this peak. 

Not sure which one it is, perhaps Mt. Cengia.


The bar at Bullelejoch. 

In spite of being the smallest and most remote 

rifugio we stayed in, Bullelejoch had the best 

food. They had an apple strudel that was 

better than any I have tasted anywhere. 

There were 5 of these cozy nooks 

inside Bullelejoch. 

Greti & Stephi were very welcoming hosts. 

Unfortunately, we didn't meet Hubert, who was 

picking up supplies for a big celebration that 

was to take place the day we departed.

Day 7 - Buellelejoch Huette (Rifugio Pian di Cengia) - Rifugio Auronzo 

A) At this point we were ready for a break and the route suggested by OnTop was fairly long for 

this day. So we opted to return to Rifugio Auronzo via trail 104. OnTop's suggested route is 

included in the optional routes listed at the end of this document. 

B) A call to Sandro and he picked us up within 30 minutes, returning us to Hotel Villa Alpina. 

Distance: ~6 km (3.7 miles) 

Ascent: 170 m (558 ft) 

Descent: 378 m (1,240 ft) 

Time: 2.5 hours 

A - 6 km, 378m �, 170m �


Photos from the hike from Bullelejoch Hut to Rifugio Auronzo 

Leaving Bullelejock in the fog. 

Returning to Forcella Pian di Cengia 

(Bullele Joch). 

The fog adds mystery to 

the mountain scenery. 

A convention of crows. 

The hand carved crucifix at the 

Forcella Pian di Cengia. We saw many of 

these troughout our 6 days of hiking. 

The fog adds mystery to 

the mountain scenery.


I didn't realize it until after he had passed, but I 

am quite sure this was Hubert driving a small 

tractor pulling a trailer with supplies for the 

celebration at Bullelejoch. 

The southeast side of Cime Piccola, 

the smallest of the Tre Cime peaks, adjacent 

to Forcella Lavaredo. 

This pasture filled with various graffiti made by piling stones can be seen from 

the overlook at Rifugio Auronzo. If you are going to do graffiti in a mountain paradise, 

I guess this is the way to do it. 

To OnTop Mountaineering we offer a toast... 

Thanks for helping us with this FANTASTIC adventure!

Hiking in the Dolomiti Near Cortina d'Ampezzo by Steve Ford These ...

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