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Download PDF - St. Catherine's College - University of Oxford

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Sally Francis (1990, Biology) on her passion for, and work with, saffron<br />

My passion is plants, especially those <strong>of</strong><br />

current or historical economic importance.<br />

After a first degree in Botany, I stayed on at<br />

the Department <strong>of</strong> Plant Sciences in <strong>Oxford</strong> for<br />

my DPhil in barley powdery mildew disease. I<br />

worked in agricultural research for some years,<br />

then took the decision to become a selfemployed<br />

writer and consultant specialising in<br />

crops. My first major undertaking was writing,<br />

illustrating and publishing British Field Crops, a<br />

book which has become the standard text on<br />

the subject. I am involved in many interesting<br />

freelance projects, including scoping studies<br />

on ‘alternative crops’ for cultivation in the UK.<br />

More recently I have added a new venture. I will<br />

hazard a guess that this particular pr<strong>of</strong>ession<br />

is unique amongst Catz alumni: I am a saffron<br />

grower.<br />

My saffron enterprise began because <strong>of</strong> a<br />

birthday present <strong>of</strong> just twenty plants back<br />

in 1997. After many years <strong>of</strong> growing a<br />

little saffron in the garden at my parents’<br />

smallholding in North Norfolk, I<br />

discovered by chance that a<br />

completely forgotten, but highly<br />

important, saffron-growing<br />

industry had once operated in<br />

nearby villages. Saffron from<br />

Norfolk was held in high esteem<br />

both in Britain and overseas.<br />

Valuable consignments <strong>of</strong> the spice were<br />

regularly exported from Norfolk ports like Wellsnext-the-Sea<br />

(where I had gone to school) to<br />

the Low Countries in the early seventeenth<br />

century, though a paucity <strong>of</strong> surviving customs<br />

records means we only have the merest<br />

glimpse into this intriguing trade.<br />

In 2009 I started transforming my hobbygrowing<br />

into commercial production. It required<br />

all my botanical and farming expertise to<br />

develop agronomy techniques that would allow<br />

the plant to be grown in field conditions, rather<br />

than a very sheltered garden, and to produce<br />

an economically viable amount <strong>of</strong> saffron per<br />

woman-hour invested. There were masses<br />

<strong>of</strong> technical challenges to overcome, but my<br />

first small field-grown harvest was gathered<br />

in 2010. The following year I applied for Rural<br />

Development Programme funding to help<br />

buy more stock, design and make bespoke<br />

machinery, as well as produce Saffron: the<br />

<strong>St</strong>ory <strong>of</strong> England’s Red Gold. Researching<br />

this book revealed the specialist vocabulary<br />

used by the crokers (saffron growers)<br />

from the Tudor period until saffron’s<br />

abandonment in England in the 1820s.<br />

Saffron is not an easy crop to grow and<br />

the associated work is very exacting and<br />

painstaking, which I love! Unlike most<br />

other crops, saffron has defied mechanisation<br />

and is still grown in a similar way to when it<br />

was first domesticated in Bronze Age Crete.<br />

It is exceptionally labour-intensive and huge<br />

amounts <strong>of</strong> work are needed to grow even a<br />

tiny area, so I do not operate on the same scale<br />

as other farmers. Harvesting is only possible by<br />

hand. Between 150 and 200 flowers are needed<br />

to yield just one gram <strong>of</strong> dried product, which is<br />

why saffron comes at a price.<br />

My focus for my business, Norfolk Saffron,<br />

has been on quality and sustainability. After<br />

much research, I developed a harvesting and<br />

drying method which produces rich, dark red<br />

saffron threads that are as strong and potent<br />

as possible. I only sell saffron from the most<br />

recent harvest, never older stock, which means<br />

the saffron’s superb flavour can be enjoyed to<br />

the full. In recognition <strong>of</strong> this, last year we won<br />

a Gold Great Taste Award. My work is always<br />

interesting and varied, ranging from R&D<br />

experiments to driving the tractor. I enjoy the<br />

seasonal nature <strong>of</strong> saffron growing, meeting<br />

people as passionate about saffron as me, and<br />

above all I love the harvest. It’s just so very<br />

satisfying to grow something useful.<br />

For more information, and for online sales,<br />

please visit: www.norfolksaffron.com and<br />

www.britishfieldcrops.co.uk n<br />

ST CATHERINE’S COLLEGE 2012/45

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