Trend Forecasting Report AW15
Trend Forecasting Report AW15 1
- Page 2 and 3: Visual Merchandising Pages 4 - 23 T
- Page 4: Visual Merchandising Trends Fig 3.
- Page 7 and 8: Interior Outdoors Fig 10. Bikini Be
- Page 9 and 10: Colour Pallet The colours chosen fo
- Page 11 and 12: Mock Ups Here is a mock up of what
- Page 13 and 14: Structured Space Fig 30. Exposed Br
- Page 15 and 16: Colour Pallet The colours chosen fo
- Page 17 and 18: Mock Ups Here is a mock up of what
- Page 19 and 20: Optical Illusions Fig 50. Prada Sho
- Page 21 and 22: Colour Pallet The colours chosen fo
- Page 23 and 24: Mock Ups Here is a mock up of what
- Page 26 and 27: Trend 4 ‘Stacking Threads’ is a
- Page 28 and 29: Fig 78. Juun J AW15 (2015) Fig 75.
- Page 30 and 31: Trend 5 ‘Indistinct’ is a mensw
- Page 32 and 33: Fig 96. Givenchy (2015) Fig 93. Giv
- Page 34 and 35: Trend 6 ‘Master of the Runway’
- Page 36 and 37: Fig 114. Todd Lynn (2015) Fig 111.
- Page 38: Print and Graphic Fig 119. Chapter
- Page 41 and 42: New Age Byzantine Fig 126. Byzantin
- Page 43 and 44: Colour Pallet The colours chosen fo
- Page 45 and 46: Colour Me In Fig 144. Wedding Dress
- Page 47 and 48: Colour Pallet The colours chosen fo
- Page 49 and 50: Menswear Illustrations Fig 157. Dio
- Page 51 and 52: Tribal Origins Fig 164. KTZ AW15 (2
<strong>Trend</strong><br />
<strong>Forecasting</strong><br />
<strong>Report</strong><br />
<strong>AW15</strong><br />
1
Visual<br />
Merchandising<br />
Pages 4 - 23<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> 2<br />
Structured Space<br />
Pages 12 - 17<br />
Menswear<br />
Pages 24-37<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> 5<br />
Indistinct<br />
Pages 30 - 33<br />
Print &<br />
Graphics<br />
Pages 38 - 53<br />
Fig 2. Contents<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> 1<br />
Interior Outdoors<br />
Pages 6 - 11<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> 3 <strong>Trend</strong> 4 <strong>Trend</strong> 6<br />
Optical Illusions Stacking Threads<br />
Master of the Runway<br />
Pages 18 - 23<br />
Pages 26 - 29<br />
Pages 34 - 37<br />
2
<strong>Trend</strong> 8 Creative <strong>Trend</strong> 10<br />
Colour Me In<br />
Direction Flash & Trash<br />
Pages 44 - 49<br />
Pages 54 - 6<br />
Pages 56 - 59<br />
Universal<br />
Works<br />
Pages 64 - 75<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> 7<br />
New Age Byzantine<br />
Pages 40 - 43<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> 9 <strong>Trend</strong> 11 Illustrations<br />
Tribal Origins<br />
Equal Treatment Pages 76 - 89<br />
Pages 50 - 53<br />
Pages 60 - 63<br />
3
Visual Merchandising <strong>Trend</strong>s<br />
Fig 3. Chapter Divider<br />
4
<strong>Trend</strong> 1<br />
‘Interior Outdoors’ is a trend based around the idea of bringing<br />
nature inside; a combination of natural forms and man-made<br />
structures.<br />
This trend has largely been inspired by the Autumn/Winter 2015 Trade Shows<br />
in Berlin, as many of these had combined natural forms into their Visual<br />
Merchandising. Examples include Show & Order Trade Show and Seek Trade<br />
Show (Fig 12.). These shows reinforced ecologically conscious thinking, without<br />
forcing the Eco-friendly fabrics. It’s a trend all about bringing the natural<br />
environment into our familiar, urban environment; adapting natural forms in ways<br />
that make them visually stimulating but also environmentally beneficial.<br />
Several designers have been incorporating this into their catwalk shows during<br />
Fashion Weeks. Dior’s SS15 Catwalk was held in an entirely floral setting created<br />
using man-made scaffolding structures and millions of tropical plants (Fig 6.);<br />
Setting great inspiration for the <strong>AW15</strong> catwalks. This catwalk, being a spring/<br />
summer show, had an entirely floral feel; every little floral detail added to the<br />
opulence and beauty of the Dior catwalk setting. However, this was just the<br />
beginning of the natural form trend, as the seasons transition into Autumn/<br />
Winter 15, we see a rise in Eco-conscious nature-inspired- sets. Ermengildo<br />
Zenga is a prime example of this <strong>AW15</strong> VM trend; the set for their <strong>AW15</strong> catwalk<br />
(Fig 11. & Fig 13.) was an urban forest. An ecologically conscious playground for<br />
the modern-day urban man; it combined the previously seen tropical paradise<br />
theme of SS15 with a darker, and more intense, message about going green. The<br />
show told a story of the ultimate luxe safari trip, a trip that takes the models<br />
through a prehistoric-looking tropical forest with a ‘Jurassic Park’ feel; the main<br />
focus being that idea of ‘returning to the wilderness’.<br />
6
Interior Outdoors<br />
Fig 10. Bikini Berlin VM (2015)<br />
Fig 6. Dior SS15 Catwalk (2014)<br />
Fig 11. Tropical Catwalk (2015)<br />
Fig 7. Anthropologie Store (2015)<br />
Fig 4. Bikini Berlin Hotel (2015)<br />
Fig 12. Seek Trade Show (2015)<br />
Fig 5. Tree through celling (2012)<br />
Fig 13. Tropical Catwalk (2015)<br />
Fig 8. Biotecture Wall (2013)<br />
Fig 9. Drift Wood (2013)<br />
7
Fig 17. Dior SS15 (2014)<br />
Fig 14. Dior SS15 (2014)<br />
Mist<br />
Hollyhock<br />
Fig 19. Bikini Berlin (2015)<br />
Bliss<br />
Thistle<br />
Gerbera<br />
Fig 15. Tropical (2015)<br />
Fig 16. Biotecture (2013)<br />
Tansy<br />
Fig 20. Drift Wood (2013)<br />
Fig 21. Tree through celling (2012)<br />
8<br />
Fig 18. Rocks (2014)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘Interior Outdoors’ colour pallet<br />
reflect the themes within this trend. The deeper, earthier<br />
tones seen in ‘Tansy’ and ‘Gerbera’ are representative of the<br />
deeper message behind the trend, the idea of Eco-conscious<br />
thinking. The pinky, floral colours seen in ‘Hollyhock’ and<br />
‘Thistle’ represent the natural elements, the floral colours<br />
of tropical plants. And, the bluey, silver hues, seen in<br />
‘Bliss’ and ‘Mist’, represent the metallic tones of the urban<br />
environment; as well as what it is missing, the bliss of<br />
nature.<br />
9
Hanging plants and<br />
flowers from above to<br />
create a jungle effect<br />
Allowing natural<br />
forms to grow inside,<br />
such as ivy<br />
Displaying plants<br />
of shrubbery in<br />
refurbished or reused<br />
man-made cases such<br />
as wooden crates or<br />
steel cages<br />
Creating in-store<br />
biotecture walls<br />
Building around<br />
trees the natural<br />
environment by<br />
placing windows<br />
or openings in the<br />
celling<br />
Creating natural<br />
forms out of modern<br />
materials, such as<br />
metals or lights<br />
Fig 22. Interior Outdoors Components<br />
10
Mock Ups<br />
Here is a mock up of what the ‘Interior Outdoors’ trend may<br />
look like in a Visual Merchandising set up (Fig 23.), using<br />
some of the key elements displayed in the images to the<br />
left. (Fig 22.).<br />
Fig 23. Interior Outdoors Mock Up<br />
11
<strong>Trend</strong> 2<br />
‘Structured Space’ is a trend inspired by man-made structures<br />
and urban, architectural and structural environments.<br />
This trend is another largely influenced by the <strong>AW15</strong> Berlin Trade Shows. Show<br />
& Order (Fig 27.), one of the largest Trade Shows, held their international order<br />
platform in an old thermal power station. This made for an unique industrial<br />
location for the show, to which they added studio lighting rigs and steel pipe<br />
clothing rails as part of their Visual Merchandising. This gave the show a very<br />
architectural, structured feel with an urban twist of a worn, derelict backdrop.<br />
Bright Trade Show (Fig 24.) was another example of this trend in Berlin. Held in<br />
a disused warehouse, the Bright show was typically urban, featuring men’s street<br />
wear brands such as Vans, Hype and Obey, as well as some new, up and coming<br />
brands. The location featured exposed pipes and brickwork, as well as a general<br />
wear-and-tear, worn look to the old floors and doorways.<br />
However, the brands themselves showcased unique styles through structural<br />
VM, such as steel pipe clothing rails and old TV’s playing adverts and promotion<br />
videos. Also in Berlin, the Bikini Berlin shopping centre (Fig 25. & Fig 29.)<br />
showcases an industrial style with exposed steel beams and columns as well<br />
as pipes and industrial lighting. The Pop Up stores in place in AW 14/15 are a<br />
great inspiration for this trend, they show a transition into an entirely industrial<br />
visual merchandising trend.<br />
At the luxury end of the fashion spectrum, there are more signs of this emergent<br />
trend; however, none are more obvious than Dior’s Pre-Fall <strong>AW15</strong> catwalk show<br />
(F) in Tokyo. This collection, designed by Raf Simons, was showcased on a manmade<br />
catwalk, sculpted from steel piping and other industrial materials. This<br />
created the appearance of a structured space with an urban influence.<br />
12
Structured Space<br />
Fig 30. Exposed Bricks (2015)<br />
Fig 26. Warehouse Celling (2015)<br />
Fig 31. Seek Trade Show (2015)<br />
Fig 27. Show & Order Show (2015)<br />
Fig 24. Bright Trade Show (2015)<br />
Fig 32. Seek Trade Show (2015)<br />
Fig 25. Bikini Berlin Stores (2015)<br />
Fig 33. Dior Pre Show (2015)<br />
Fig 28. Premium Trade Show (2015)<br />
Fig 29. Bikini Berlin Celling (2015)<br />
13
Fig 37. Seek Trade Show(2015)<br />
Fig 34. Show & Order (2015)<br />
Graphite<br />
Derelict<br />
Grit<br />
Fig 39. Show & Order (2015)<br />
Titanium<br />
Aluminum<br />
Fig 35. Bikini Berlin (2015)<br />
Fig 36. Mykita (2015)<br />
Tarnished<br />
Fig 40. Warehouse Roof (2015)<br />
Fig 41. Bikini Berlin (2015)<br />
14<br />
Fig 38. Bright Show (2015)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘Structured Space’ colour pallet<br />
reflect the industrial and urban feel of the trend. The<br />
darkest colour in the pallet is a deep, earthy brown shade<br />
called ‘Deconstructive’; this colour is representative of<br />
the worn appearance of old, disused industrial buildings<br />
and materials. The three slightly lighter, middle tones<br />
are ‘Tarnished’, ‘Grit’ and ‘Graphite’; these colours are<br />
rich tones of browns and blues that represent the colours<br />
of cement and industrial materials seen in disused,<br />
deteriorated buildings and warehouses. The lightest colours<br />
in the pallet are ‘Aluminum’ and ‘Titanium’, which, as<br />
suggested in their names, represent the silvery hues of<br />
metals.<br />
15
Exposing the<br />
industrial properties<br />
of materials, such as<br />
steel, concrete or iron<br />
Allowing graffiti or<br />
vandalisms to be<br />
seen (or artistically<br />
creating these)<br />
Creating clothing rails<br />
or other installations<br />
from industrial items<br />
of piping or wires<br />
Exposing brickwork<br />
and the fabrications<br />
of the building<br />
Allowing the natural<br />
wear and tear of a<br />
building/location to<br />
be seen<br />
Using studio or<br />
industrial lighting to<br />
recreate an industrial<br />
setting<br />
Fig 42. Structured Space Components<br />
16
Mock Ups<br />
Here is a mock up of what the ‘Structured Space’ trend<br />
may look like in a Visual Merchandising set up within a<br />
store (Fig 43.), using some of the key elements displayed<br />
in the images to the left (Fig 42.).<br />
Fig 43. Structured Space Mock Up<br />
17
<strong>Trend</strong> 3<br />
‘Optical Illusions’ is a trend about visual trickery and deceiving<br />
the eye through the use of pattern, lighting and mirrors.<br />
Optical Illusions is a Visual Merchandising style that has been seen across<br />
several areas this season, including store displays, catwalk show spaces and<br />
clothing.<br />
Starting with the <strong>AW15</strong> catwalk shows, Prada led this trend with their use of a<br />
unique and interesting show-space (Fig 50.). Their <strong>AW15</strong> collection was displayed<br />
in a specialist scientific facility that is specifically designed to create optical<br />
illusions and trick the eye (Fig 53.). The use of repeated patterns created in<br />
lights, long corridors and mirrors alludes to a never-ending space (Fig 48.).<br />
Overall, this space added a very mystical edge to show, creating a situation that<br />
blurs the lines between trickery and reality.<br />
Another Designer that used Optical Illusions to showcase his clothing was Carlo<br />
Brandelli for Kilgour. Brandelli used suspended fiber optic strands that hung<br />
above the audiences head, these emitted a greenish blue light as they cut up the<br />
room into sharp and angular shapes (Fig 46.). Again, this uses light to distort the<br />
appearance of the setting and the garments being displayed within it (Fig 51.).<br />
Alongside this idea of optical illusions within visual merchandising, we have also<br />
seen the use of some more traditional optical illusion ideas within garment.<br />
Byblos Milano have featured an entire collection this season based around the<br />
use of black and white patterns that have been seen in optical illusion artwork<br />
(Fig 44.& Fig 47.). The same was also done within Tom Ford’s <strong>AW15</strong> collection<br />
(Fig 45.).<br />
18
Optical Illusions<br />
Fig 50. Prada Showspace (2015)<br />
Fig 46. Kilgour VM (2015)<br />
Fig 51. Kilgour VM (2015)<br />
Fig 47. Byblos Milano (2015)<br />
Fig 44. Byblos Milano (2015) Fig 52. Byblos Milano (2015)<br />
Fig 45. Tom Ford <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 53. Prada Showspace (2015)<br />
Fig 48. Prada Showspace (2015)<br />
Fig 49. Prada Showspace (2015)<br />
19
Fig 57. Kilgour VM (2015)<br />
Fig 54. Tom Ford (2015)<br />
Black Light<br />
N e g a t i v e<br />
Space<br />
Fig 59. Byblos Milano (2015)<br />
Retina<br />
Future<br />
Prism<br />
Fig 55. Byblos Milano<br />
(2015)<br />
Fig 56. Byblos Milano<br />
(2015)<br />
Truth<br />
Fig 60. Prada Showspace (2015)<br />
Fig 61. Prada Showspace (2015)<br />
20<br />
Fig 58. Prada Showspace (2015)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘Optical Illusion’ colour pallet are<br />
representative of the themes and visual codes within this<br />
trend. The black, ‘Negative Space’, and white, ‘Black Light’,<br />
colours seen are representative of the typical black and<br />
white optical illusion art work, which uses pattern to deceive<br />
the eye. The red tone seen in ‘Prism’ is a focal primary<br />
colour that would stand out against the rest of the colours<br />
to draw the eye in to something of interest. The bluey, green<br />
shades seen in ‘Retina’, ‘Truth’ and ‘Future’ represent tones<br />
often seen or created by lights such as strobes.<br />
21
Using door ways to<br />
create the illusion of<br />
a never ending space<br />
Using black and<br />
white optical illusion<br />
patterns and artwork<br />
Using strobe effect<br />
lights and mirrors to<br />
distort light<br />
Using mirrors to trick<br />
the eye and create<br />
‘infinite’ effects.<br />
Using black and white<br />
as key colours to<br />
create patterns<br />
Only using brighter,<br />
primary colours when<br />
needed to make<br />
something stand out<br />
Fig 62. Optical Illusion Components<br />
22
Mock Ups<br />
Here is a mock up of what the ‘Optical Illusion’ trend may<br />
look like in a Visual Merchandising set up (Fig 63.), within<br />
a store, using some of the key elements displayed in the<br />
images to the left. (Fig 62.).<br />
Fig 63. Optical Illusion Mock Up<br />
23
Menswear <strong>Trend</strong>s<br />
Fig 64. Chapter Divider<br />
24
<strong>Trend</strong> 4<br />
‘Stacking Threads’ is a menswear trend that focuses of the art<br />
of layering and the combination of multiple fabrics of varying<br />
styles, textures, colours and cut.<br />
This trend is one that has featured heavily on the <strong>AW15</strong> Menswear catwalks this<br />
season. Especially among the Juun J, MAN and Raf Simons shows. Although the<br />
concept of layering is not new to menswear, nor to Autumn/Winter styles, this<br />
season seems to have embodied a new wave of layering. This style focuses on<br />
the colours, where, rather than clashing layers, there are subtle tonal changes<br />
between the layers of an outfit. This has been best displayed by Juun J <strong>AW15</strong><br />
collection, in which tones of green (Fig 69.), beige (Fig 68.) and creams (Fig<br />
67.) have been used to create depth within layering styles. This idea has also<br />
been translated within Vivienne Westwood’s <strong>AW15</strong> collection ‘MAN’. Here, tonal<br />
changes of blacks, navy and greys can be seen (Fig 65. & Fig 66.). The common<br />
combination of garments seen within both of these collections is the use of a<br />
large, oversized coat over layers of jumpers, sweatshirts and t-shirts. They both<br />
also use varying textures to break up layers of the outfit, such as the use of furs<br />
within the Juun J collection (Fig 71. & Fig 72.) and the use of leathers within the<br />
MAN collection (Fig 66.).<br />
Another designer that has adopted this trend for <strong>AW15</strong> is Raf Simons. His<br />
catwalk collection this season features combinations of long coats, over lab<br />
coats, over jumpers, turtlenecks and t-shirts. The colours he has used are also<br />
very similar to those seen in the Juun J and MAN collections. A black, grey and<br />
white tonal range has been used heavily within his ensembles, as seen here (Fig<br />
74.). He has also used this common style of an oversized, long line coat as a top<br />
layer of the outfit.<br />
26
Stacking Threads<br />
Fig 71. Juun J Aw15 (2015)<br />
Fig 67. Juun J Aw15 (2015)<br />
Fig 72. Juun J Aw15 (2015)<br />
Fig 68. Juun J Aw15 (2015)<br />
Fig 65. MAN Aw15 (2015)<br />
Fig 73. Juun J Aw15 (2015)<br />
Fig 66. MAN Aw15 (2015)<br />
Fig 74. Raf Simons (2015)<br />
Fig 69. Juun J Aw15 (2015)<br />
Fig 70. MAN Aw15 (2015)<br />
27
Fig 78. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 75. Raf Simons (2015)<br />
Discrete<br />
Haute Core<br />
Fig 80. Raf Simons (2015)<br />
Cement<br />
Exposure<br />
Fig 76. McQ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Frayed Lace<br />
Fig 77. MAN <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Hessian<br />
Fig 81. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 82. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
28<br />
Fig 79. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘Stacking Threads’ colour pallet<br />
reflect the theme within the trend. The varying shades<br />
here represent the varying layers created in many of the<br />
outfits seen within this trend, especially these examples.<br />
The deepest, darkest colours seen here in ‘Haute Core’<br />
and ‘Cement’ represent the darkest colour within an outfit;<br />
the darker colour usually draws a focus point for the<br />
ensemble. The mid-tone colours seen in ‘Discrete’ and<br />
‘Hessian’ represent the elements of the outfit that may go<br />
unseen by the eye, the in-between layers of the outfit. The<br />
lightest colours, seen in ‘Frayed Lace’ and ‘Exposure’ are<br />
representative of the lightest tonal colour of an outfit, often<br />
used to draw the eye to detail, such as a texture or print on<br />
one of the layers.<br />
29
<strong>Trend</strong> 5<br />
‘Indistinct’ is a menswear trend that focuses of the idea of gender<br />
neutrality and the use of feminine patterns, fabrics or cuts on the<br />
masculine figure.<br />
This trend follows the current social trend of gender neutrality, within menswear it has<br />
been seen in several catwalk shows this season including Givenchy, Gucci, Raf Simons<br />
and Rick Owens. However, we are also starting to see this at the lower end of the market<br />
with stores such as Selfridges launching a Unisex range.<br />
On the catwalk, Givenchy challenged several gender stereotypes within fashion, using<br />
floral prints (Fig 83.) and using female models to walk in the menswear garments (Fig<br />
87.). They also play with fit and cut of garments by using feminine styles on the male<br />
figure, something that Gucci also did within their <strong>AW15</strong> collection (Fig 85.). Certain<br />
fabrics have also been used within both collections that would usually be associated with<br />
womenswear, such as mesh or lace (Fig 86.), floral patterns (Fig 91.) and ribbons (Fig<br />
89.). Similarly to Givenchy, Gucci also used female models within their male catwalk show<br />
(Fig 89.). Raf Simons is another designer that has used the idea of gender neutrality as<br />
an underlying theme within his <strong>AW15</strong> catwalk collection. The entire collection was entitled<br />
‘Gender Fuse’ (Fig 92.) and, similarly to the garments within Givenchy and Gucci’s shows,<br />
he mixed traditionally feminine silhouettes with the masculine figure to create genderneutral<br />
outfits.<br />
Another designer using gender in an interesting way this season is Rick Owens. Although<br />
his designs did not necessarily embody the idea of gender neutral, unisex clothing, he<br />
did use gender to cause scandal. By cutting his garments in a way that exposed the<br />
men wearing them, he created cause for discussion around gender stereotypes and<br />
sexualisation.<br />
30
Indistinct<br />
Fig 89. Gucci <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 85. Gucci <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 90. Gucci <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 86. Givenchy (2015)<br />
Fig 83. Givenchy (2015)<br />
Fig 91. Givenchy (2015)<br />
Fig 84. Givenchy (2015)<br />
Fig 92. Raf Simons (2015)<br />
Fig 87. Givenchy (2015)<br />
Fig 88. Rick Owens (2015)<br />
31
Fig 96. Givenchy (2015)<br />
Fig 93. Givenchy (2015)<br />
Polar<br />
Indisputable<br />
Fig 98. Givenchy (2015)<br />
Charlie<br />
Off White<br />
Neutral<br />
Fig 94. Givenchy (2015)<br />
Fig 95. Rick Owens (2015)<br />
Transfer<br />
Fig 99. Gucci (2015)<br />
Fig 100. Gucci (2015)<br />
32<br />
Fig 97. Gucci (2015)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘Indistinct’ colour pallet reflect<br />
the themes of gender-neutrality within this trend. The<br />
deeper tones seen in ‘Indisputable’, ‘Transfer’ and ‘Charlie’<br />
are representative of one side of the gender stereotypes<br />
and the lighter colours seen in ‘Polar’, ‘Neutrality’ and<br />
‘Off White’ represent the other, opposite side. This reflects<br />
the distinctions between male and female, masculine and<br />
feminine. However, all of the colours fall within a similar<br />
bluey green tonal range creating an unclear divide between<br />
them.<br />
33
<strong>Trend</strong> 6<br />
‘Master of the Runway’ is a menswear trend that focuses of the idea of<br />
male dominance, in line with the influence of the recent release of the<br />
‘Fifty Shades of Grey’ movie.<br />
Several menswear catwalk shows featured male dominance and ‘Fifty Shades’ themes<br />
this season. Some of the most prominent examples of this were Raf Simons, Todd Lynn,<br />
Alexander McQueen and Balmain. Although this is a trend that started out in AW14, with<br />
Versace featuring black leather and mesh within their collection (Fig 104. & Fig 107.),<br />
only now are we starting to see this trend on a much bigger, more wide spread, scale. Now<br />
some of the biggest menswear labels are featuring male dominance insprired garments.<br />
This season, many of the brands used fabrics and textures to translate their<br />
interpretation of male dominance. They achieved this by using materials often associated<br />
with BDSM, such as leather, latex, PVC and metal chains. The combination of these<br />
materials and the use of the colour red, that has connotations of lust as well as danger<br />
and authority, creates a suggestion of sexual domination. For example, Raf Simons<br />
featured a red PVC coat within his collection (Fig 105.). McQueen also featured the<br />
combination of red and black through layers of red fabrics and black leathers (Fig 103.).<br />
Todd Lynn also featured full leather outfits (Fig 101.). Balmain also features a frequent<br />
use of leather within their <strong>AW15</strong> collection (Fig 102.), as do Alexander McQueen (Fig<br />
103.). Greys have also been used within several of these menswear collections as a direct<br />
reference to the ‘Fifty Shades of Grey’ movie.<br />
This themes and the brands embodying the idea of male dominance have created<br />
a distinct opposite to those using gender neutrality as a key theme in their <strong>AW15</strong><br />
collections. This idea puts men on a pedistole as the greater, dominant sex rather than<br />
encouraging gender equality.<br />
34
Master of the Runway<br />
Fig 107. Versace (2014)<br />
Fig 103. McQueen <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 108. 50 Shades (2015)<br />
Fig 104. Versace (2014)<br />
Fig 101. Todd Lynn (2015)<br />
Fig 109. 50 Shades (2015)<br />
Fig 102. Balmain (2015)<br />
Fig 110. 50 Shades (2015)<br />
Fig 105. Raf Simons (2015)<br />
Fig 106. Balmain (2015)<br />
35
Fig 114. Todd Lynn (2015)<br />
Fig 111. Versace (2014)<br />
Deep<br />
Ultimate<br />
Fig 116. Todd Lynn (2015)<br />
Hegemony<br />
Rule<br />
Masked<br />
Fig 112. Balmain (2015)<br />
Fig 113. 50 Shades (2015)<br />
Dusk<br />
Fig 117. Versace (2015)<br />
Fig 118. 50 Shades (2015)<br />
36<br />
Fig 115. 50 Shades (2015)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘Master of the Runway’ colour<br />
pallet reflect the themes within this trend. The deeper,<br />
darker tones seen in ‘Ultimate’ and ‘Deep’ are representative<br />
of the darker materials used within the garments, such as<br />
leather. The grey tones seen in ‘Hegemony’, ‘Masked’ and<br />
‘Dusk’ represent the ’Fifty Shades of Grey’ element of the<br />
trend. The red tone ‘Rule’ represents lust and danger.<br />
37
Print and Graphic<br />
Fig 119. Chapter Divider<br />
38
<strong>Trend</strong> 7<br />
‘New Age Byzantine’ is a print and graphic trend that focuses of the<br />
use of Byzantine style artwork withing clothing and garment, this idea<br />
embodies religious and monarchy ideologies.<br />
The use of Byzantine style art and Iconography within clothing has become very popular<br />
this season. Although this was first seen in AW14 within Dolce & Gabbana’s Womenswear<br />
collection, this was very apt for the brand as their Italian roots sit firmly around religious<br />
and catholic ideologies. These roots are shared with much of the Byzantine and religious<br />
art beign featured in this seasons catwalk shows. This season we have seen Byzantine<br />
style art filter into the menswear shows, lead by Dolce & Gabbana that focused on the<br />
patterns of Byzantine art and translated into graphic prints (Fig 124.) as opposed to the<br />
overly embellished outfits that we saw in their AW14 Womenswear show (Fig 123.).<br />
At a slightly lower end of the scale, the Universal Works capsule collection show also<br />
embodied this idea of Byzantine and religion; both by using colour schemes similar to<br />
those used in Byzantine such as golds and blues, and also through the choice of setting.<br />
The Universal Works show was held in a cathedral, infront of stain glass windows (Fig<br />
128.).<br />
This time around, and the idea behing ‘New Age Byzantine’ seems to be a case<br />
of much more subtle hints to the era through the use of colours and gold details.<br />
Using traditionally expensive colours such as purples and burgendys, as well as gold<br />
embellished accessories (Fig 121. & Fig 129.) or shirt details such as buttons. Universal<br />
Works also used setting as a subtle hint towards the trend.<br />
40
New Age Byzantine<br />
Fig 126. Byzantine Art (2006)<br />
Fig 122. Byzantine Art (2012)<br />
Fig 127. D&G (2015)<br />
Fig 123. Dolce & Gabbana (2014)<br />
Fig 120. Byzantine Art (2010)<br />
Fig 128. Universal Works (2015)<br />
Fig 121. Dolce & Gabbana (2014)<br />
Fig 129. D&G (2015)<br />
Fig 124. Dolce & Gabbana (2015)<br />
Fig 125. Byzantine Art (2009)<br />
41
Fig 133. D&G (2014)<br />
Fig 130. D&G (2015)<br />
Stain Glass<br />
Eternal<br />
Fig 135. Byzantine Art (2010)<br />
Velvet<br />
Iconic<br />
Fig 131. D&G (2015)<br />
Baroque<br />
Fig 132. UW (2015)<br />
Merlot<br />
Fig 136. Byzantine Art (2004)<br />
Fig 137. Cathedral (2011)<br />
42<br />
Fig 134. Byzantine Art (2009)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘New Age Byzantine’ colour pallet<br />
reflect those seen in both the original work of the Byzantine<br />
and Baroque eras, as well as iconography, and the modern<br />
interpretations of these that can be seen within fashion. The<br />
darkest colour ‘Eternal’... The deeper, richer tones seen in<br />
‘Stain Glass’, ‘Velvet’ and ‘Merlot’ are all representative of<br />
the rich, prestigious connotation of these colours during the<br />
age of Byzantine and the Monarchy. The remaining colours,<br />
‘Baroque’ and ‘Iconic’ represent the bright golds and<br />
bronzes that were used in Iconography and Byzantine Art.<br />
43
<strong>Trend</strong> 8<br />
‘Colour Me In’ is a print and graphic trend that embodies the<br />
playfulness of childhood drawings and doodles, as well as graffiti, mark<br />
making and the art of customisation<br />
This season, print and graphics inspired by customisation and mark making. The catwalk<br />
has seen several examples of this across menswear and womenswear for <strong>AW15</strong>. The trend<br />
was sparked by the SS15 collection from Dior Homme, which featured crayon like doodles<br />
that covered their menswear garments (Fig 141. & Fig 145.), and this trend has continued<br />
into <strong>AW15</strong>.<br />
This season Raf Simons used ‘graffitied’ garments within his collection (Fig 138.), here it<br />
was used as a take on the college years and refers to the doodles and graffiti you might<br />
see around a college campus (Fig 142.). The colours he used here were very similar to<br />
those from the Dior Homme SS15 collection, as they tended to be predominantly primary<br />
and secondary colours. Similarly, Dolce & Gabbana’s <strong>AW15</strong> collection featured drawings<br />
and doodles on their garments (Fig.). The doodles seen were created by children and<br />
copied on to the garment either graphically (Fig 139.) or sewn on (Fig 146.). This also<br />
follows the theme of Angelina Jolie’s wedding dress from 2014 (Fig 144.), as she let<br />
her children doodle and draw on her veil (Fig 143.). The commonality between these<br />
collections and Angelina Jolie’s dress is therefore the idea of a childs playfulness, using<br />
their doodles or style to reflect that idea of freedom and creativity. This has then been<br />
transformed onto clothing in a customisation style that means the garmets tell some sort<br />
of story about the drawer.<br />
44
Colour Me In<br />
Fig 144. Wedding Dress (2014)<br />
Fig 140. Raf Simons (2015)<br />
Fig 145. Dior Homme (2015)<br />
Fig 141. Dior Homme (2015)<br />
Fig 138. Raf Simons (2015)<br />
Fig 146. Dolce & Gabbana (2015)<br />
Fig 139. Dolce & Gabbana (2015)<br />
Fig 147. Dior Homme (2015)<br />
Fig 142. Raf Simons (2015)<br />
Fig 143. Wedding Dress (2014)<br />
45
Fig 151. Dior Homme (2015)<br />
Fig 148. R Simons (2015)<br />
Aqua<br />
D e n i m<br />
Fig 153. D&G <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fern<br />
Blush<br />
Fig 149. R Simons (2015)<br />
Lemonade<br />
Fig 150. R Simons (2015)<br />
Pistachio<br />
Fig 154. Raf Simons (2015)<br />
Fig 155. D&G <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
46<br />
Fig 152. Raf Simons (2015)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘Colour Me In’ colour pallet<br />
reflect the themes of customization and graffiti within this<br />
trend, they reflect the playfulness of unrefined doodles<br />
on garments. The blue tones, yellow and red tone seen in<br />
‘Denim’, ‘Aqua’, ‘Lemonade’ and ‘Blush’ are representative<br />
of primary colours, although they are not solid, primary<br />
colours. The green tones equally reflect part of a ‘basic’ set<br />
of colours used for children’s colouring, these two are called<br />
‘Fern’ and ‘Pistachio’.<br />
47
Womenswear Illustrations<br />
48<br />
Fig 156. D&G <strong>AW15</strong> Illustrations
Menswear Illustrations<br />
Fig 157. Dior Homme <strong>AW15</strong> Illustrations<br />
49
<strong>Trend</strong> 9<br />
‘Tribal Origins’ is a trend inspired by tribal cultures, origins and<br />
roots.<br />
Tribal Origins is based around the use of tribal patterns from several tribal<br />
cultures, that have been seen this season on the <strong>AW15</strong> catwalks.<br />
The KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> collection was one of the strongest showcases of tribal influences<br />
on fashion this season. The KTZ garments featured two tone pattterns such as<br />
black and white (Fig 160.) and orange and black (Fig 158.). The patterns seen on<br />
these garments vary from medieval or roman-esque style tribal artwork to a cave<br />
man or esqimo style garments (Fig 164.).<br />
Another brand using tribal origins as their influence this season is Givenchy.<br />
Givenchy’s <strong>AW15</strong> collection featured a strong colour pallet of reds, blacks and<br />
browns (Fig 166.) that reflected the style of the patterns and garments. The<br />
patterns used are reflective of both oriental (Fig 162.) and aztec roots (Fig 159.),<br />
with some references more distinct than others.<br />
50
Tribal Origins<br />
Fig 164. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 160. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 165. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 161. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 158. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 166. Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 159. Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 167. Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 162. Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 163. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
51
Fig 171.Givenchy (2015)<br />
Fig 168. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Ashes<br />
Dark Marks<br />
Fig 173. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Roots<br />
Chant<br />
Ambers<br />
Fig 169. Mask (2015)<br />
Fig 170. Mask (2015)<br />
Hunter<br />
Fig 174. Givenchy (2015)<br />
Fig 175. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
52<br />
Fig 172. Givenchy (2015)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘Tribal Origins’ colour pallet<br />
reflect the ideology of tribal cultures, origins and roots.<br />
The darkest colour in the pallet is a black called ‘Dark<br />
Marks’, this is inspired by the idea of markings created<br />
on themselves, such as tattoos, but also those left behind<br />
by much older, historic tribes. The deeper, earthier tones<br />
seen in ‘Ashes’ and ‘Roots’ are representative of the natural<br />
environment that tribes live in and survive on. The deep<br />
red colour, ‘Hunter’, represents blood and a hunt-to-kill<br />
mentality. The fiery, orange tones seen in ‘Ambers’ and<br />
‘Chant’ represent the natural element fire and refer to the<br />
idea of a campfire.<br />
53
Creative Direction <strong>Trend</strong>s<br />
Fig 176. Chapter Divider<br />
54
<strong>Trend</strong> 10<br />
‘Flash & Trash’ is a creative direction trend that looks at the<br />
idea of the super rich, in lavish lifestyles of the rich and famous.<br />
Flash and Trash focuses on the idea of high fashion that has been designed with<br />
the ideology and wear once and throw away that you see at the lower end of the<br />
market in stores such as Primark.<br />
Nowadays, brands such as Moschino are creating ready-to-wear collections that<br />
are so bold and entirely focussed on micro trends, that you would likely only wear<br />
it once. This is something the super rich can now afford, but for the lower end of<br />
the market it seems like a far off idea.<br />
Celebrities are the biggest influence on this trend, such as the Kim K and the<br />
Kardashians (Fig 177. & Fig 185.). As well as Chris Brown and Karrueche, who<br />
advocated the wearing of real fur this season, sitting front row at <strong>AW15</strong> shows<br />
in matching fur coats (Fig 178.). Real fur seems to be the biggest demonstration<br />
of someone’s luxury lifestyle this season, with even Kim Kardashian’s daughter<br />
North West being photographed in a real fur coat (Fig 181.); an idea that seems<br />
slightly outragous at such a young age.<br />
Several designers have also featured real furs on their catwalk this season,<br />
including Moschino (Fig 179.) and Giambattista Valli (Fig 180.). Other brands<br />
have also displayed opulence on the catwalk this season through the use of overthe-top<br />
diamond dresses and lace (Fig 186.) to show glamour. Zuhair Murad were<br />
one of the best examples of this for <strong>AW15</strong>, showcasing floor length diamonte<br />
gowns (Fig 183. & Fig 184.).<br />
56
Flash & Trash<br />
Fig 183. Zuhair Murad (2015)<br />
Fig 179. Moschino (2015)<br />
Fig 184. Zuhair Murad (2015)<br />
Fig 180. Giambattista Valli (2015)<br />
Fig 177. Kim K (2014)<br />
Fig 185. Kim & Khloe (2014)<br />
Fig 178. Matching Furs (2015)<br />
Fig 186. Alessandra (2015)<br />
Fig 181. North West (2015)<br />
Fig 182. Moschino (2015)<br />
57
Fig 190. Kim K (2014)<br />
Fig 187. Ralph Lauren (2015)<br />
Mink<br />
Faux<br />
Fig 192. Kim & Khloe (2014)<br />
Luxe<br />
Desire<br />
Envy<br />
Fig 188. Valli (2015)<br />
Fig 189. Dress (2015)<br />
Opulence<br />
Fig 193. Alessandra (2015)<br />
Fig 194. Moschino RTW (2015)<br />
58<br />
Fig 191. Zuhair Murad (2015)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘Flash & Trash’ colour pallet<br />
reflect the idea of excess and wealth within this trend.<br />
The beige, brown tones seen in ‘Faux’ and ‘Mink’ are<br />
representative of furs, and the distinction between real and<br />
fake fur. The paler colours seen in ‘Luxe’ and ‘Opulence’<br />
represent the glamour and wealth of the super rich and<br />
famous. And the pinky, purple hues, seen in ‘Desire’ and<br />
‘Envy’, represent the lust and want of material items.<br />
59
<strong>Trend</strong> 11<br />
‘Equal Treatment’ is a creative direction trend that focuses on<br />
the issue of positive discrimination and equality in fashion.<br />
This season we have seen several examples of fashion making an attempt to<br />
create equality, especially within modelling. However, some would argue that<br />
some of this could be seen as positive discrimination.<br />
Last year, Viktoria Modesta created a storm in the fashion world, being used<br />
in several editorials and campaigns, as a amputee model with only one leg.<br />
Although she personally aims to empower the disabled and give them a chance<br />
in the fashion world, many people could argue that she was used in brand<br />
campaigns for all the wrong reasons. The same could be said for Marks and<br />
Spencers 2014 Christmas advertisment that features a downs syndrome child<br />
after his mother complained about the lack of disabled people being used in<br />
their adverts.<br />
This season it has taken a turn for the better with the campaign ‘Role Models<br />
not Runway Models’ offering the opportunity for disabled models to be on the<br />
catwalk. FTL Moda also featured disabled models within their <strong>AW15</strong> Catwalk,<br />
although this was done in the right light, with the clothes still being the key focus<br />
of the collection<br />
60
Equal Treatment<br />
Fig 197. Viktoria Modesta (2014)<br />
Fig 201. Viktoria Modesta (2014)<br />
Fig 198. Viktoria Modesta (2014)<br />
Fig 195. FTL Moda <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 202. FTL Moda <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 196. FTL Moda <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 203. FTL Moda <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
Fig 199. Viktoria Modesta (2014)<br />
Fig 200. FTL Moda <strong>AW15</strong> (2015)<br />
61
Fig 207. FTL Moda (2015)<br />
Fig 204. FTL Moda (2015)<br />
Absent<br />
Encompass<br />
Fig 209. FTL Moda (2015)<br />
Fig 204. FTL Moda (2015)<br />
Noir<br />
Fair<br />
Fig 205. V. Modesta (2015)<br />
Plain Even<br />
Fig 206. FTL Moda (2015)<br />
Feature<br />
Fig 210. M&S Advert (2015)<br />
Fig 211. Unisex Clothing (2015)<br />
62<br />
Fig 208. V. Modesta (2015)
Colour Pallet<br />
The colours chosen for the ‘Equal Treatment’ colour pallet<br />
reflect the idea of inclusion and positive discrimination<br />
within this trend. The contrasting tones seen in ‘Encompass’<br />
and ‘Absent’ are representative of the differences within<br />
human kind. However, these both have similar tonal<br />
qualities showing their united qualities. The brown tones<br />
seen in ‘Noir’, ‘Feature’, ‘Plain Even’ and ‘Fair’ also show<br />
how something can appear different but in fact have many<br />
similarities.<br />
63
Universal Works<br />
Fig 212. Chapter Divider<br />
64
Universal Works<br />
Looking at this Brand Essence Model for<br />
U n i v e r s a l Wo r k s , t h e m o s t a p p r o p r i a t e<br />
trend for the brand to adopt may<br />
be the ‘Interior Outdoors’ Visual<br />
Merchandising trend. This is due<br />
to the fact that it reflects their<br />
promise of sustainability.<br />
Brand Personality<br />
Laid Back Attitude<br />
Hard Working<br />
Honest<br />
Brand Values<br />
Aim to mix Great<br />
British clothing with<br />
an International feel,<br />
crafting clothes with love,<br />
soul and care<br />
Brand Promise<br />
A good, honest menswear<br />
brand, quality garments,<br />
wearable, sustainable,<br />
affordable<br />
Fig 213. Brand Essence Model<br />
66
Brand Essence Model<br />
Brand Attributes<br />
& Benefits<br />
Universal Works clothing<br />
is comfortable, versatile<br />
& can be worn for work &<br />
play<br />
Brand Truth<br />
A British menswear<br />
company who care about<br />
function, fit & cut of a<br />
garment<br />
Brand Design<br />
Equation<br />
Minimal<br />
Subtle Branding<br />
Masculine<br />
Th e B r i t i s h H e r i t a g e<br />
theme of the Butcher’s<br />
Hook Creative Direction<br />
trend also suits this undividedly<br />
British brand. This is seen<br />
throughout their Brand Essence Model<br />
as an important foundation of the brands.<br />
67
Perseptual Map<br />
Diesel<br />
Masculine<br />
Barbour<br />
Universal<br />
Works<br />
Tommy<br />
Hilfiger<br />
68<br />
Fig 214. Perceptual Map
Innovators<br />
Ted Baker<br />
Paul Smith<br />
Feminine<br />
Laggards<br />
69
Universal Works Mock Ups<br />
The Visual Merchandising trend that may be most suited to Universal Works is ‘Interior Outdoors’. This is a trend<br />
that combines the industrial and urban with natural forms. This could work well for the brand as they already have a<br />
trend industrial element within both their brand and stores. Below is an image of a previous store layout and Visual<br />
Merchandising design (Fig 215.) against a mock up for how the ‘Interior Outdoors’ trend could be translated into their<br />
stores (Fig 216.). Here, there is also a revised colour pallet more appropriate to the masculinity of the brand.<br />
Fig 215. Universal Works Store (2013).<br />
70
Interior Outdoors<br />
Citrus Rust Bamboo Driftwood Oak Tree<br />
Morning<br />
Moss<br />
Nettle<br />
Fig 216. Interior Outdoors Mock Up (2015).<br />
71
Universal Works Mock Ups<br />
The Print and Graphic trend that best suits Universal Works is ‘New Age Byzantine’. This is a trend that combines the<br />
traditional byzantine, iconography artwork and style with modern clothing. This could work well for the brand as they<br />
already have a similar colour pallet within much of their <strong>AW15</strong> clothing range and frequently use patterns as motifs.<br />
Below is an example of how they are already using this trend in a visual merchandising style (Fig 217.). To the right, is<br />
how ‘New Age Byzantine’ could be translated into garment for Universal Works (Fig 218.) and a colour pallet.<br />
Fig 217. Universal Works <strong>AW15</strong> Show (2015).<br />
72
New Age Byzantine<br />
Eternal<br />
Stain Glass<br />
Velvet<br />
Merlot<br />
Baroque<br />
Iconic<br />
This is a mock up of what<br />
the print and graphic trend<br />
‘New Age Byzantine’ might<br />
look like when translated into<br />
garment for universal works.<br />
This demonstrates the subtle<br />
use of byzantine patterns on<br />
areas such as pockets and<br />
the shirt lining, and the use<br />
of gold details on seams and<br />
buttons.<br />
Fig 218. New Age Byzantine Mock Up (2015).<br />
73
Universal Works Mock Ups<br />
The menswear trend that may be most suited to Universal Works is ‘Master of the Runway’. This is a trend that focuses<br />
on male dominance and, as Universal Works has a design equation of masculine, this feels appropriate. Below is<br />
an image of some of Universal Works current clothing (Fig 219.) and to the right are some examples of how subtle<br />
changes and details could hint at this trend. Such as the use of leather, cuff-links, grey details or a tie range that hints<br />
at ‘Fifty Shades of Grey’, and collar chains that mimic bondage collars (Fig 220.). This also shows the colour pallet.<br />
74<br />
Fig 219. Universal Works Clothing (2015).
Master of the Runway<br />
Deep Ultimate Hegemony Dusk Masked<br />
Rule<br />
Fig 220. Master of the Runway Ideas.<br />
75
List of Illustrations<br />
77
List of Illustrations<br />
List of Illustrations<br />
F i g 1 . C ov e r Pa g e I m a g e.<br />
F i g 2 . C o n t e n t s .<br />
From Left to Right:<br />
Dior SS15 Catwalk (2014). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wZ-7Iftl6t0/UnmTiwkP-wI/AAAAAAAAAeE/eMfYnqwtoKU/<br />
s1600/4.jpg<br />
Dior Pre Show <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/AW2015/Paris/R-T-W/christian_dior_-_<br />
pre/064_426x639.jpg<br />
Dior SS15 Catwalk Flowers (2014). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wZ-7Iftl6t0/UnmTiwkP-wI/AAAAAAAAAeE/<br />
eMfYnqwtoKU/s1600/4.jpg<br />
Kilgour <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). https://jermynstreetjournal.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/autumn-winter15.jpg<br />
Prada <strong>AW15</strong> Show Space (2015). http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2p2-WOMSrGM/VLwX8z7IvoI/AAAAAAAAeGE/<br />
zchEtj5tVhw/s1600/Prada%2BMens.jpg<br />
Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> Coat (2015). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EmmrMwDSml0/VOhZDKuNDiI/AAAAAAAACow/WqiuPsLIeP4/<br />
s1600/Juun_J_13_1366.jpg<br />
Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> Models (2015). http://showstudio.com/img/instagrams/97801-98000/97902_963n.jpg<br />
Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> Floral Print (2015). http://showstudio.com/img/instagrams/97801-98000/97902_960n.jpg<br />
Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> Coat (2015). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EZ1Rz4inupM/VOhZEF_1ihI/AAAAAAAACpE/ELlXzka3ers/<br />
s1600/Juun_J_08_1366.jpg<br />
Raf Simons <strong>AW15</strong> Red Coat (2015). http://whiteliesmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/012120145749-<br />
1024x769.jpg<br />
Byzantine Art Mosaic (2014). https://figures.boundless.com/11803/full/la-placidia-in-italia.jpg<br />
Dior SS15 Menswear (2015). http://aws.media.style.com/image/ts/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/paris/<br />
dior-homme/collection/1366/2048/DIO_0633.1366x2048.JPG<br />
Byzantine Mosaic (2013). https://figures.boundless.com/11803/002.jpg<br />
Raf Simons <strong>AW15</strong> Lab Coats (2015). http://whiteliesmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/012120145749-<br />
1024x769.jpg<br />
KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H8A5VT4Z4EA/VLwe3kVtcvI/JLs/b9oXWSFWZpg/s1600/KTZ-Fall-<br />
Winter-2015-London-Collections-Men-027.jpg<br />
KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H8A5VT4Z4EA/VLwe3kVtcvIJLs/b9oXWSFWZpg/s1600/KTZ-Fall-<br />
Winter-2015-London-Collections-Men-025.jpg<br />
Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty Exhibition (2015). http://www.gainsburyandwhiting.com/2012/04/26/<br />
Alexander_McQueen_Savage_Beauty_thumb_02-03.jpg<br />
Kim Kardashian (2014). http://www.fashionfile.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/kim-kardashian-melbournelatex-03.jpg<br />
North West in Fur (2015). http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2015/02/12/25968DA300000578-2950056-<br />
image-a-56_1423704730907.jpg<br />
Disabled Model (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr06/<br />
enhanced-7595-1424164876-26.jpg<br />
Universal Works Logo (2015). https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/478496728035782656/d4wQmDib.jpeg<br />
Unisex Clothing Range at Selfridges (2015). http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2015/03/19/26CDF95700000578-<br />
3002605-image-a-14_1426780418104.jpg<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk<br />
78
Fig 3. Chapter Divider<br />
From Left to Right:<br />
Warehouse Celling (2015). Own photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Dior Pre Show <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/AW2015/Paris/R-T-W/christian_dior_-_<br />
pre/064_426x639.jpg<br />
Kilgour <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). https://jermynstreetjournal.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/autumn-winter15.jpg<br />
Ermenegildo Zegna <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/58700/1421524398880/boxoutjpg/<br />
ALTERNATES.jpg<br />
B i k i n i B e r l i n S t o r e ( 2 0 1 5 ) . O w n p h o t o f r o m B i k i n i B e r l i n [ P h o t o g r a p h ] A l t e r e d .<br />
Dior SS15 Catwalk (2014). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wZ-7Iftl6t0/UnmTiwkP-wI/AAAAAAAAAeE/eMfYnqwtoKU/<br />
s1600/4.jpg<br />
Dior SS15 Catwalk Flowers (2014). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wZ-7Iftl6t0/UnmTiwkP-wI/AAAAAAAAAeE/<br />
eMfYnqwtoKU/s1600/4.jpg<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> One:<br />
Fig 4. Bikini Berlin Hotel (2015). http://dnahotels.com/uploads/reception.jpg<br />
Fig 5. Tree through celling (2012). http://blog.lumens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Corallo-House-10-<br />
tree-top.jpg<br />
Fig 6. Dior SS15 Catwalk (2014). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wZ-7Iftl6t0/UnmTiwkP-wI/AAAAAAAAAeE/<br />
eMfYnqwtoKU/s1600/4.jpg<br />
Fig 7. Anthropologie Store (2015). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OauJ1igtN3I/TmdCGvjT_mI/AAAAAAAAFDg/<br />
g7mZFmSQ5-8/s1600/IMG_2459.JPG<br />
F i g 8 . B i o t e c t u r e Wa l l ( 2 0 1 3 ) .<br />
Fig 9. Drift Wood (2013). http://www.traditionaltimber.co.uk/demo/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/reclaimeddriftwood-oak-3m.jpg<br />
Fig 10. Bikini Berlin VM (2015) Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 11. Tropical Catwalk (2015). http://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/58700/1421524398880/boxoutjpg/<br />
ALTERNATES/<br />
Fig 12. Seek Trade Show (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 13. Tropical Catwalk (2015). http://www.outtheremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/<br />
Fig 14. Dior SS15 (2014). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wZ-7Iftl6t0/UnmTiwkP-wI/AAAAAAAAAeE/eMfYnqwtoKU/<br />
s1600/4.jpg<br />
Fig 15. Tropical (2015). http://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/58700/1421524398880/boxoutjpg/ALTERNATES/<br />
Fig 16. Biotecture (2013).<br />
Fig 17. Dior SS15 (2014). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wZ-7Iftl6t0/UnmTiwkP-wI/AAAAAAAAAeE/eMfYnqwtoKU/<br />
s1600/6.jpg<br />
Fig 18. Rocks (2014). http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/72/DirkvdM_rocks.jpg<br />
Fig 19. Bikini Berlin (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 20. Drift Wood (2013). http://www.traditionaltimber.co.uk/demo/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/reclaimeddriftwood-oak-3m.jpg<br />
Fig 21. Tree through celling (2012). http://blog.lumens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Corallo-House-10-<br />
tree-top.jpg<br />
79
F i g 2 2 . I n t e r i o r O u t d o o r s C o m p o n e n t s .<br />
C l o c k w i s e f r o m C e n t r e To p :<br />
Dior SS15 Catwalk (2014). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wZ-7Iftl6t0/UnmTiwkP-wI/AAAAAAAAAeE/eMfYnqwtoKU/<br />
s1600/4.jpg<br />
Seek Trade Show (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Tree through celling (2012). http://blog.lumens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Corallo-House-10-tree-top.<br />
jpg<br />
Bikini Berlin VM (2015) Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Anthropologie Store (2015). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OauJ1igtN3I/TmdCGvjT_mI/AAAAAAAAFDg/g7mZFmSQ5-8/<br />
s1600/IMG_2459.JPG<br />
Bikini Berlin Hotel (2015). http://dnahotels.com/uploads/reception.jpg<br />
Fig 23. Interior Outdoors Mock Up (2015). http://st2.depositphotos.com/2332949/5930/i/950/<br />
depositphotos_59309759-Mock-up-white-frame-on-white-brick-wall.jpg [Altered]<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> Two:<br />
Fig 24. Bright Trade Show (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 25. Bikini Berlin Stores (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 26. Warehouse Celling (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 27. Show & Order Show (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 28. Premium Trade Show (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 29. Bikini Berlin Celling (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 30. Exposed Bricks (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 31. Seek Trade Show (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 32. Seek Trade Show (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 33. Dior Pre Show (2015). Dior Pre Show <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/<br />
AW2015/Paris/R-T-W/christian_dior_-_pre/064_426x639.jpg<br />
Fig 34. Show & Order (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 35. Bikini Berlin (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 36. Mykita (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 37. Seek Trade Show (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 38. Bright Show (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 39. Show & Order (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 40. Warehouse Roof (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 41. Bikini Berlin (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 42. Structured Space Components. Clockwise from Centre Top:<br />
Bikini Berlin Celling (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Metal Hanging Clothing Rail (2014). http://style-files.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/clothhanger-1.jpg<br />
Show & Order Gallery (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Warehouse Celling (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Exposed Bricks (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Street Graffiti (2015). Own Photo from Berlin [Photograph]<br />
Fig 43. Structured Space Mock Up (2015). http://st2.depositphotos.com/2332949/5930/i/950/<br />
depositphotos_59309759-Mock-up-white-frame-on-white-brick-wall.jpg [Altered]<br />
80<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> Three:
Fig 44. Byblos Milano (2015). http://images.dazedcdn.com/1000x800/dd/1110/2/1112102.jpg<br />
Fig 45. Tom Ford (2015). http://www.idolmag.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/The_London_Collections_Mens_<br />
<strong>AW15</strong>_Tom_FordBuro_Cover.jpg<br />
Fig 46. Kilgour (2015). https://jermynstreetjournal.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/autumn-winter-2015-image-6.<br />
jpg<br />
Fig 47. Byblos Milano (2015). http://images.dazedcdn.com/1000x800/dd/1110/2/1112090.jpg<br />
Fig 48. Prada Showspace (2015). http://ftape.com/media/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Prada-Mens-<strong>AW15</strong>-<br />
Showspace-3.jpg<br />
Fig 49. Prada Showspace (2015). http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2p2-WOMSrGM/VLwX8z7IvoI/AAAAAAAAeGE/<br />
zchEtj5tVhw/s1600/Prada%2BMens%2B<strong>AW15</strong>%2BShowspace%2B(7).jpg<br />
Fig 50. Prada Showspace (2015). http://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2015/01/Prada-<strong>AW15</strong>-menswear-catwalk-by-<br />
OMA-AMO_dezeen_784_3.jpg<br />
Fig 51. Kilgour (2015). https://jermynstreetjournal.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/autumn-winter-2015-image-1.<br />
jpg<br />
Fig 52. Byblos Milano (2015). http://images.dazedcdn.com/1000x800/dd/1110/2/1112095.jpg<br />
Fig 53. Prada Showspace (2015). http://ftape.com/media/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Prada-Mens-<strong>AW15</strong>-<br />
Showspace-1.jpg<br />
Fig 54. Tom Ford (2015). http://www.designscene.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/LCM-02-620x930.jpg<br />
Fig 55. Byblos Milano (2015). http://images.dazedcdn.com/1000x800/dd/1110/2/1112090.jpg<br />
Fig 56. Byblos Milano (2015). http://images.dazedcdn.com/1000x800/dd/1110/2/1112095.jpg<br />
Fig 57. Kilgour (2015). https://jermynstreetjournal.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/autumn-winter-2015-image-6.<br />
jpg<br />
Fig 58. Prada Showspace (2015). http://ftape.com/media/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Prada-Mens-<strong>AW15</strong>-<br />
Showspace-3.jpg<br />
Fig 59. Byblos Milano (2015). http://images.dazedcdn.com/1000x800/dd/1110/2/1112098.jpg<br />
Fig 60. Prada Showspace (2015). http://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2015/01/Prada-<strong>AW15</strong>-menswear-catwalk-by-<br />
OMA-AMO_dezeen_784_3.jpg<br />
Fig 61. Prada Showspace (2015). http://ftape.com/media/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Prada-Mens-<strong>AW15</strong>-<br />
Showspace-1.jpg<br />
Fig 62. Optical Illusion Components<br />
C l o c k w i s e f r o m C e n t r e To p :<br />
Prada Showspace (2015). http://static.dezeen.com/uploads/2015/01/Prada-<strong>AW15</strong>-menswear-catwalk-by-OMA-<br />
AMO_dezeen_784_3.jpg<br />
Strobe Lighting (2015). http://www.musik-produktiv.co.uk/pic-010072520_02xl/american-dj-fx-beam_02xl.jpg<br />
Mirror (2014). http://www.briscoes.co.nz/productimages/magnify/1/10033_17227_5058.jpg<br />
Optical Illusion Pattern (2010). http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0CpGXZHqZzw/maxresdefault.jpg<br />
Fig 63. Optical Illusion Mock Up (2015). http://st2.depositphotos.com/2332949/5930/i/950/<br />
depositphotos_59309759-Mock-up-white-frame-on-white-brick-wall.jpg [Altered]<br />
Fig 64. Chapter Divider<br />
From Left to Right:<br />
50 Shades Book (2012). http://blogs-images.forbes.com/jennagoudreau/files/2012/03/Fifty-Shades-of-Grey.jpg<br />
Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nrYPJS55Adw/VGrY1LAd7uI/AAAAAAAAeVg/RTskfHEW8Cg/<br />
s1600/Givenchy-Black-Floral-Abstract-Contrast-Top-Print-Columbian-Fit-T-Shirt-4-Spring-Summer-2015-.jpg<br />
Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://showstudio.com/img/instagrams/97801-98000/97902_960n.jpg?1404122336<br />
Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://deuxhommesmag.com/wp-content/juj_lb_fw15_013.jpg<br />
Raf Simons (2015). http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Q9A0252.jpg [Altered]<br />
81
Raf Simons (2015). http://whiteliesmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/012120145749-1024x769.jpg<br />
Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://deuxhommesmag.com/wp-content/jnj_m_lb_fw13_010.jpg<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> Four:<br />
Fig 65. Man <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sjolOnToMTo/VLe0GTuLQrI/AAAAAAAASlE/Y8MWiWEUNZA/<br />
s1600/man_aw15_023.jpg<br />
Fig 66. Man <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://deuxhommesmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/man_aw15_018.jpg<br />
Fig 67. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://deuxhommesmag.com/wp-content/jnj_m_lb_fw13_001.jpg<br />
Fig 68. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://images.dazedcdn.com/1200/0-242-1733-1156/dd/1100/3/1103058.jpg<br />
Fig 69. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/a7/e1/6a/<br />
a7e16a02320f86df4f9727de1d4157fe.jpg<br />
Fig 70. Man <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://deuxhommesmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/man_aw15_018.jpg<br />
Fig 71. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://deuxhommesmag.com/wp-content/jnj_m_lb_fw13_010.jpg<br />
Fig 72. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://deuxhommesmag.com/wp-content/juj_lb_fw15_013.jpg<br />
Fig 73. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://deuxhommesmag.com/wp-content/juj_lb_fw15_050.jpg<br />
Fg 74. Raf Simons (2015). http://www.joujouvilleroy.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/raf-simons-autumnwinter-2015-2016-paris-fashion-week-red-trend-graffiti.jpg<br />
Fig 75. Man <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sjolOnToMTo/VLe0GTuLQrI/AAAAAAAASlE/Y8MWiWEUNZA/<br />
s1600/man_aw15_023.jpg<br />
Fig 76. McQ (2015). http://www.disneyrollergirl.net/wp-content/uploads/McQ-aw15-4.jpg<br />
Fig 77. MAN AW5 (2015). http://deuxhommesmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/man_aw15_018.jpg<br />
Fig 78. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/a7/e1/6a/<br />
a7e16a02320f86df4f9727de1d4157fe.jpg<br />
Fig 79. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://40.media.tumblr.com/d95f10d5d13492e4d04a4c49cf6c08c3/tumblr_<br />
ni300kF1s81qc8yajo1_500.jpg<br />
Fig 80. Raf Simons (2015). http://www.joujouvilleroy.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/raf-simons-autumnwinter-2015-2016-paris-fashion-week-red-trend-graffiti.jpg<br />
Fig 81. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://images.dazedcdn.com/1200/0-242-1733-1156/dd/1100/3/1103058.jpg<br />
Fig 82. Juun J <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://deuxhommesmag.com/wp-content/jnj_m_lb_fw13_001.jpg<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> Five:<br />
Fig 83. Givenchy (2015). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nrYPJS55Adw/VGrY1LAd7uI/AAAAAAAAeVg/RTskfHEW8Cg/<br />
s1600/Givenchy-Black-Floral-Abstract-Contrast-Top-Print-Columbian-Fit-T-Shirt-4-Spring-Summer-2015-.jpg<br />
Fig 84. Givenchy (2015). http://showstudio.com/img/instagrams/97801-98000/97902_960n.jpg?1404122336<br />
Fig 85. Gucci <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). https://designandculturebyed.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/guc_0206.jpg<br />
Fig 86. Givenchy (2015). http://www.theglassmagazine.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/ON_0049.450x675.<br />
jpg<br />
Fig 87. Givenchy (2015). http://stylecartel.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/RUD-231-Paris-Men-SS15-<br />
Givenchy-Adriana-Lima-dÇfilÇ.jpg<br />
Fig 88. Rick Owens (2015). http://marieclaire.media.ipcdigital.co.uk/11116/000084fba/83c5_orh100000w440/<br />
Rick-Owens-penis-show-Garticle9.jpg<br />
Fig 89. Gucci <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://media.style.com/image/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/milan/gucci/<br />
collection/1366/2048/GUC_0133.jpg<br />
Fig 90. Gucci <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://ftape.com/media/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Gucci-Menswear-FW15-05.jpg<br />
Fig 91. Givenchy (2015). http://media.style.com/image/ts/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/paris/givenchy/<br />
collection/1366/2048/_ON_0886.1366x2048.JPG<br />
Fig 92. Raf Simons (2015). https://designandculturebyed.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/slide28.jpg?w=720/<br />
slide28.jpg<br />
82
Fig 93. Givenchy (2015). http://showstudio.com/img/instagrams/97801-98000/97902_960n.jpg?1404122336<br />
Fig 94. Givenchy (2015). http://stylecartel.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/RUD-231-Paris-Men-SS15-<br />
Givenchy-Adriana-Lima-dÇfilÇ.jpg<br />
Fig 95. Rick Owens (2015). http://marieclaire.media.ipcdigital.co.uk/11116/000084fba/83c5_orh100000w440/<br />
Rick-Owens-penis-show-Garticle9.jpg<br />
Fig 96. Givenchy (2015). http://www.theglassmagazine.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/ON_0049.450x675.<br />
jpg<br />
Fig 97. Gucci (2015). http://media.style.com/image/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/milan/gucci/<br />
collection/1366/2048/GUC_0133.jpg<br />
Fig 98. Givenchy (2015). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nrYPJS55Adw/VGrY1LAd7uI/AAAAAAAAeVg/RTskfHEW8Cg/<br />
s1600/Givenchy-Black-Floral-Abstract-Contrast-Top-Print-Columbian-Fit-T-Shirt-4-Spring-Summer-2015-.jpg<br />
Fig 99. Gucci (2015). https://designandculturebyed.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/guc_0206.jpg<br />
Fig 100. Gucci (2015). http://ftape.com/media/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Gucci-Menswear-FW15-05.jpg<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> Six<br />
Fig 101. Todd Lynn (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxpa1/v/t1.0-9/10440286_10153119449830011_820201743367635520_n.<br />
jpg?oh=10c2604b3cd32aed2bbfc84325037a8f&oe=558876F1&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153119449830011&set=oa.820863984649822&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 102. Balmain (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxpf1/v/t1.0-9/11013205_10153119448505011_7458730784945852305_n.<br />
jpg?oh=8a1912309781addae5c041becdbc7dd1&oe=557880E4&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153119448505011&set=oa.820863984649822&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 103. McQueen <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/b7/ba/85/<br />
b7ba8518bb23306d38155efa4d8572d4.jpg<br />
Fig 104. Versace (2014). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxpf1/v/t1.0-9/1601333_10153119448915011_7765332412797673096_n.<br />
jpg?oh=402f4585b31342bae9b8dca2575519ea&oe=558EC750&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153119448915011&set=oa.820863984649822&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 105. Raf Simons (2015). http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Q9A0252.jpg<br />
Fig 106. Balmain (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxpf1/v/t1.0-9/11013205_10153119448505011_7458730784945852305_n.<br />
jpg?oh=8a1912309781addae5c041becdbc7dd1&oe=557880E4&dl=2,<br />
Fig 107. Versace (2014). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/<br />
v/l/t1.0-9/11018410_10153119448330011_5655436481892194758_n.<br />
jpg?oh=07c173a9db1d0e1e010df77d55b17b15&oe=55816B6C&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153119448330011&set=oa.820863984649822&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 108. 50 Shades (2015). http://tbo.com/storyimage/TB/20150212/ARTICLE/150219756/EP/1/3/EP-<br />
150219756.jpg<br />
Fig 109. 50 Shades (2015). https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotosak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11034318_10153119449035011_4327769784284198231_n.<br />
jpg?oh=73911d7bd432abdaf3cb9a61604d3042&oe=558A480B&__gda__=1434232180_<br />
ea89d9a5011f7c3c8406cbed7b04e724&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153119449035011&set=oa.820863984649822&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 110. 50 Shades (2015). http://i.guim.co.uk/static/w-1430/h--/q-95/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/<br />
pictures/2015/2/13/1423852473366/bada83c7-1ed3-4e30-ac67-c1dcf33e1502-2060x1236.jpeg<br />
Fig 111. Versace (2014). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxpf1/v/t1.0-9/1601333_10153119448915011_7765332412797673096_n.<br />
jpg?oh=402f4585b31342bae9b8dca2575519ea&oe=558EC750&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153119448915011&set=oa.820863984649822&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 112. Balmain (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-<br />
83
xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11013205_10153119448505011_7458730784945852305_n.<br />
jpg?oh=8a1912309781addae5c041becdbc7dd1&oe=557880E4&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153119448505011&set=oa.820863984649822&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 113. 50 Shades (2015). http://blogs-images.forbes.com/jennagoudreau/files/2012/03/Fifty-Shades-of-Grey.<br />
jpg<br />
Fig 114. Todd Lynn (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxpa1/v/t1.0-9/10440286_10153119449830011_820201743367635520_n.<br />
jpg?oh=10c2604b3cd32aed2bbfc84325037a8f&oe=558876F1&dl=1,<br />
Fig 115. 50 Shades (2015). http://tbo.com/storyimage/TB/20150212/ARTICLE/150219756/EP/1/3/EP-<br />
150219756.jpg<br />
Fig 116. Todd Lynn (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxpf1/v/t1.0-9/10352031_10153119448715011_5208704975662031865_n.<br />
jpg?oh=802576f4424aaa5424c3b7ad58a39be6&oe=5586981D&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153119448715011&set=oa.820863984649822&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 117. Versace (2014). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/<br />
v/l/t1.0-9/11018410_10153119448330011_5655436481892194758_n.<br />
jpg?oh=07c173a9db1d0e1e010df77d55b17b15&oe=55816B6C&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153119448330011&set=oa.820863984649822&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 118. 50 Shades (2015). https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotosak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11034318_10153119449035011_4327769784284198231_n.<br />
jpg?oh=73911d7bd432abdaf3cb9a61604d3042&oe=558A480B&__gda__=1434232180_<br />
ea89d9a5011f7c3c8406cbed7b04e724&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153119449035011&set=oa.820863984649822&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 119. Chapter Divider<br />
From Left to Right:<br />
Byzantine Art (2010). http://figures.boundless.com/11803/full/la-placidia-in-ravenna-001.jpe<br />
Dior Homme (2014). http://aws.media.style.com/image/ts/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/paris/diorhomme/collection/1366/2048/DIO_0633.1366x2048.JPG<br />
Raf Simons (2015). http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Q9A0326.jpg<br />
Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). https://s3.amazonaws.com/img.tagloom.com/sm/3115/lr96/<br />
eca41347ea9b824c1e770bbc59d6cc7244ec09cc.jpg<br />
Raf Simons (2015). http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Q97463326.jpg [Altered]<br />
KTZ (2015). http://pylotmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/ktz_12.jpg<br />
Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://daily.modelogs.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Mac-Phiri-Givenchy-<strong>AW15</strong>-16.jpg<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> Seven<br />
84<br />
Fig 120. Byzantine Art (2010). http://figures.boundless.com/11803/full/la-placidia-in-ravenna-001.jpe<br />
Fig 121. Dolce & Gabbana (2014). http://www.itslavida.com/files/2014/12/Dolce-Gabbana1.jpg<br />
Fig 122. Byzantine Art (2012). https://jauntingjen.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/ravenna-gabriel-apse-mosaic-inberlin.jpg<br />
Fig 123. Dolce & Gabbana (2014). https://fashionblagstheblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/524c0-dolce-andgabbana-fw-2014-women-adv-campaign-9.jpg<br />
Fig 124. Dolce & Gabbana (2015). http://media.male-extravaganza.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/DG.jpg<br />
Fig 125. Byzantine Art (2009). https://wordscene.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc0049.jpg<br />
Fig 126. Byzantine Art (2006). http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6151/6162852338_d988760721_o.jpg<br />
Fig 127. D&G (2015). http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/AW2014/Milan/Mens/Dolce_and_Gabbana/<br />
00130h_426x639.jpg<br />
Fig 128. Universal Works (2015). https://i.vimeocdn.com/video/502916145_640.jpg<br />
Fig 129. D&G (2015). http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/AW2014/Milan/Mens/Dolce_and_Gabbana/<br />
Details/00060h_426x639.jpg
Fig 130. D&G (2015). http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/Shows/AW2014/Milan/Mens/Dolce_and_Gabbana/<br />
Details/00060h_426x639.jpg<br />
Fig 131. Dolce & Gabbana (2015). http://media.male-extravaganza.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/DG.jpg<br />
Fig 132. UW (2014). https://i.vimeocdn.com/video/502916145_640.jpg<br />
Fig 133. Dolce & Gabbana (2014). http://www.itslavida.com/files/2014/12/Dolce-Gabbana1.jpg<br />
Fig 134. Byzantine Art (2009). https://wordscene.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/dsc0049.jpg<br />
Fig 135. Byzantine Art (2010). http://figures.boundless.com/11803/full/la-placidia-in-ravenna-001.jpe<br />
Fig 136. Byzantine Art (2004). http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cc/Shroud_of_Charlemagne_<br />
manufactured_in_Constantinople_814.jpg<br />
Fig 137. Cathedral (2011). https://classconnection.s3.amazonaws.com/815/flashcards/923815/png/<br />
picture61324153622236.png<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> Eight<br />
Fig 138. Raf Simons (2015). http://www.joujouvilleroy.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/raf-simons-autumnwinter-2015-2016-paris-fashion-week-red-trend-graffiti.jpg<br />
Fig 139. Dolce & Gabbana (2015). http://www.growingyourbaby.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/MFW-<br />
AutumnWinter-2015-Dolce-Gabbana-Viva-La-Momma-Childs-drawing- dress1-498x750.jpg<br />
Fig 140. Raf Simons (2015). http://www.theglassmagazine.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Doodle-Jumper.<br />
jpg<br />
Fig 141. Dior Homme (2015). http://aws.media.style.com/image/ts/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/paris/<br />
dior-homme/collection/1366/2048/DIO_0633.1366x2048.JPG<br />
Fig 142. Raf Simons (2015). http://40.media.tumblr.com/924b02f5a7014f714c1c27e9e083e366/tumblr_<br />
niknb5xEMx1u4zpklo1_1280.jpg<br />
Fig 143. Wedding Dress (2014). http://www.houstonfamilymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/<br />
Bwh1vOgCQAEWEP2.png<br />
Fig 144. Wedding Dress (2014). http://www.houstonfamilymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/<br />
Bwh1vOgCQAEWEP2.png<br />
Fig 145. Dior Homme (2015). http://aws.media.style.com/image/ts/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/paris/<br />
dior-homme/collection/1366/2048/DIO_0662.1366x2048.JPG<br />
Fig 146. Dolce & Gabbana (2015). https://alexandrathelittlebird.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/dol_0471.jpg<br />
Fig 147. Dior Homme (2015). http://ftape.com/media/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/men_PHOTO-PAP-HOMME-<br />
SS15-44.jpg<br />
Fig 148. R Simons (2015). http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Q9A0326.jpg<br />
Fig 149. R Simons (2015). http://www.joujouvilleroy.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/raf-simons-autumnwinter-2015-2016-paris-fashion-week-red-trend-graffiti.jpg<br />
Fig 150. R Simons (2015). http://40.media.tumblr.com/924b02f5a7014f714c1c27e9e083e366/tumblr_<br />
niknb5xEMx1u4zpklo1_1280.jpg<br />
Fig 151. Dior Homme (2015). http://aws.media.style.com/image/ts/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/paris/<br />
dior-homme/collection/1366/2048/DIO_0633.1366x2048.JPG<br />
Fig 152. Raf Simons (2015). https://designandculturebyed.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/kim_0826.jpg<br />
Fig 153. D&G <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://www.growingyourbaby.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/MFW-AutumnWinter-<br />
2015-Dolce-Gabbana-Viva-La-Momma-Childs-drawing- dress1-498x750.jpg<br />
Fig 154. Raf Simons (2015). http://www.theglassmagazine.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Doodle-Jumper.<br />
jpg<br />
Fig 155. D&G <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). https://alexandrathelittlebird.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/dol_0471.jpg<br />
Fig 156. D&G <strong>AW15</strong> Illustrations (2015). [Own Illustrations)<br />
Fig 157. Dior Homme <strong>AW15</strong> Illustrations (2015). [Own Illustrations)<br />
85
<strong>Trend</strong> Nine<br />
Fig 158. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://wjlondon.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Kaykon_to_Zai_KTZ_2_orange_<br />
hat_gladiator_rome_monochrome_black_and_white_ss15_spring_summer_2015_ready_to_wear_london_collections_<br />
mens_fashion_week_rosemary_pitts_whos_jack.jpg<br />
Fig 159. Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). https://s3.amazonaws.com/img.tagloom.com/sm/3115/lr96/<br />
eca41347ea9b824c1e770bbc59d6cc7244ec09cc.jpg<br />
Fig 160. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://41.media.tumblr.com/e5928e5793671a1ef8947fe81fde0290/tumblr_<br />
nizgtqtMJE1sn8xnoo1_1280.jpg<br />
Fig 161. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ya2HWs2cdc/VLwe5ZmwmRI/AAAAAAAAJME/<br />
AQHItMZOUPQ/s1600/KTZ-Fall-Winter-2015-London-Collections-025.jpg<br />
F i g 1 6 2 . G i v e n c h y A W 1 5 ( 2 0 1 5 ) .<br />
Fig 163. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://pylotmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/ktz_12.jpg<br />
Fig 164. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ya2HWs2cdc/VLwe5ZmwmRI/AAAAAAAAJME/<br />
AQHItMZOUPQ/s1600/KTZ-Fall-Winter-2015-London-Collections-030.jpg<br />
Fig 165. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://www.kokontozai.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/ktz_men_ss15_032.jpg<br />
Fig 166. Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://photon.101medialablimit.netdna-cdn.com/hypebeast.com/<br />
image/2015/01/givenchy-2015-fall-winter-collection-23.jpg?w=377<br />
Fig 167. Givenchy <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://www.theglassmagazine.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/MON0351.<br />
jpg<br />
Fig 168. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://pylotmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/ktz_12.jpg<br />
Fig 169. Mask (2015). https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/<br />
s480x480/10945587_838867099506542_9115994633030310923_n.jpg?<br />
Fig 170. Mask (2015). https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/<br />
s480x480/10945587_838867099506542_9115994633030310923_n.jpg?<br />
Fig 171. Givenchy (2015). http://photon.101medialablimit.netdna-cdn.com/hypebeast.com/image/2015/01/<br />
givenchy-2015-fall-winter-collection-23.jpg?w=377<br />
Fig 172. Givenchy (2015). https://s3.amazonaws.com/img.tagloom.com/sm/3115/lr96/<br />
eca41347ea9b824c1e770bbc59d6cc7244ec09cc.jpg<br />
Fig 173. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://www.kokontozai.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/ktz_men_ss15_032.jpg<br />
Fig 174. Givenchy (2015). http://41.media.tumblr.com/e5928e5793671a1ef8947fe81fde0290/tumblr_<br />
nizgtqtMJE1sn8xnoo1_1280.jpg<br />
Fig 175. KTZ <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://wjlondon.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Kaykon_to_Zai_KTZ_2_orange_<br />
hat_gladiator_rome_monochrome_black_and_white_ss15_spring_summer_2015_ready_to_wear_london_collections_<br />
mens_fashion_week_rosemary_pitts_whos_jack.jpg<br />
Fig 176. Chapter Divider<br />
From Left to Right:<br />
86<br />
Unisex Collection (2015). http://klavertje.wendyonline.nl.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/<br />
Selfridges_unisex.jpg<br />
Disabled Model (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr06/<br />
enhanced-7595-1424164876-26.jpg<br />
M&S Christmas Advert (2014). http://i.huffpost.com/gen/847035/thumbs/o-MS-KIDSWEAR-CHRISTMAS-facebook.<br />
jpg<br />
North West in Fur (2015). http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2015/02/12/25968DA300000578-2950056-<br />
image-a-56_1423704730907.jpg<br />
Disabled Model (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr01/<br />
enhanced-22146-1424164875-15.jpg [Altered]<br />
Desigual (2015). http://www.theupcoming.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/NYFW-<strong>AW15</strong>-Desigual-Adnan-<br />
Mohamedy-The-Upcoming-2.jpg<br />
Moschino. (2015). https://pbs.twimg.com/media/B-3cI0VUcAAgcYn.jpg:large
<strong>Trend</strong> Ten<br />
Fig 177. Kim K (2014). http://www.fashionfile.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/kim-kardashian-melbournelatex-03.jpg<br />
Fig 178. Matching Furs (2015). http://assets-s3.usmagazine.com/uploads/assets/articles/83261-chris-brownkarrueche-matching-furs-fashion-week-photos/1424207301_karrueche-tran-chris-brown-zoom.jpg<br />
Fig 179. Moschino (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxfp1/v/t1.0-9/11024659_10153117568655011_2032036162211995885_n.<br />
jpg?oh=fedae74320120479c5bec8d6a5af6ff8&oe=55889B97&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153117568655011&set=oa.820374038032150&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 180. Giambattista Valli (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxap1/v/t1.0-9/10994335_10153117568455011_5349546571661898676_n.<br />
jpg?oh=82e802019f30ce74c13c303dd9ce0513&oe=557854FB&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153117568455011&set=oa.820374038032150&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 181. North West (2015). http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2015/02/12/25968DA300000578-2950056-<br />
image-a-56_1423704730907.jpg<br />
Fig 182. Moschino (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxpa1/v/t1.0-9/11037567_10153117569010011_3316900798836472419_n.<br />
jpg?oh=35e731f05a574d313128de9f8758240c&oe=558AAA6C&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153117569010011&set=oa.820374038032150&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 183. Zuhair Murad (2015). https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-<br />
8/10922327_10153117569280011_5764413123150753141_o.jpg?dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153117569280011&set=oa.820374038032150&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 184. Zuhair Murad (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-<br />
8/11001581_10153117571165011_6313122216632585276_o.jpg?dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153117571165011&set=oa.820374038032150&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 185. Kim & Khloe (2014). http://fashionbomb.thefashionbomb.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/<br />
uploads/2014/11/3-Kim-Kardashians-Hairfinity-Launch-Party-Juan-Carlos-Obando-Spring-2015-Peach-Crop-Top-<br />
Double-Slit-Skirt-and-Jacket-Khloe-Kardashian-Black-Alexander-McQueen-Buttoned-Dress.jpg<br />
Fig 186. Alessandra (2015). https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotosak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10981654_10153117579600011_8917624860708858595_n.<br />
jpg?oh=99f77a29c5ce3a11fadc7e146dde5688&oe=55902E2F&__<br />
gda__=1433763146_42392b1ef2ada3793b8d6f08cdf3d8f2&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153117579600011&set=oa.820374038032150&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 187. Ralph Lauren (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotosxfp1/v/t1.0-9/11008557_10153117569415011_9150648173083306480_n.<br />
jpg?oh=6b6a6b66bfa06791610646453d70de0a&oe=557C9247&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153117569415011&set=oa.820374038032150&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 188. Valli (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/<br />
t1.0-9/10994335_10153117568455011_5349546571661898676_n.<br />
jpg?oh=82e802019f30ce74c13c303dd9ce0513&oe=557854FB&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153117568455011&set=oa.820374038032150&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 189. Dress (2015). https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-<br />
8/10855099_10153117570830011_4601471692519075459_o.jpg?dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153117570830011&set=oa.820374038032150&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 190. Kim K (2014). http://www.fashionfile.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/kim-kardashian-melbournelatex-03.jpg<br />
Fig 191. Zuhair Murad (2015). https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-<br />
8/11001581_10153117571165011_6313122216632585276_o.jpg?dl=1, https://www<br />
Fig 192. Kim & Khloe (2014). http://fashionbomb.thefashionbomb.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/<br />
uploads/2014/11/3-Kim-Kardashians-Hairfinity-Launch-Party-Juan-Carlos-Obando-Spring-2015-Peach-Crop-Top-<br />
87
Double-Slit-Skirt-and-Jacket-Khloe-Kardashian-Black-Alexander-McQueen-Buttoned-Dress.jpg<br />
Fig 193. Alessandra (2015). https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotosak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10981654_10153117579600011_8917624860708858595_n.<br />
jpg?oh=99f77a29c5ce3a11fadc7e146dde5688&oe=55902E2F&__<br />
gda__=1433763146_42392b1ef2ada3793b8d6f08cdf3d8f2&dl=1, https://www.facebook.com/photo.<br />
php?fbid=10153117579600011&set=oa.820374038032150&type=1&theater<br />
Fig 194. Moschino RTW (2015). http://theldndiaries.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/<br />
MoschinoB-e1411217203597.jpg<br />
<strong>Trend</strong> Eleven<br />
Fig 195. FTL Moda <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr06/<br />
Fig 196. FTL Moda <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr04/<br />
Fig 197. Viktoria Modesta (2014). http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/12/18/241F48E900000578-2877998-<br />
Viktoria_now_makes_a_feature_of_her_amputated_leg_designing_outl-m-9_1418897952057.jpg<br />
Fig 198. Viktoria Modesta (2014). http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/12/18/241F48F800000578-2877998-<br />
image-a-10_1418897974418.jpg<br />
Fig 199. Viktoria Modesta (2014). http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/12/18/241F48F800000578-2877998-<br />
image-a-10_1418897974418.jpg<br />
Fig 200. FTL Moda <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr01/<br />
Fig 201. Viktoria Modesta (2014). http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/12/18/241F490200000578-2877998-<br />
Viktoria_Modesta_had_difficulties_in_birth_that_left_her_leg_and-a-4_1418897849255.jpg<br />
Fig 202. FTL Moda <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr10/<br />
Fig 203. FTL Moda <strong>AW15</strong> (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr06/<br />
Fig 204. FTL Moda (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr10/<br />
Fig 205. V. Modesta (2014). http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/12/18/241F490200000578-2877998-Viktoria_<br />
Modesta_had_difficulties_in_birth_that_left_her_leg_and-a-4_1418897849255.jpg<br />
Fig 206. FTL Moda (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr06/<br />
Fig 207. FTL Moda (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr06/<br />
Fig 208. V. Modesta (2014). http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/12/18/241F48E900000578-2877998-Viktoria_<br />
now_makes_a_feature_of_her_amputated_leg_designing_outl-m-9_1418897952057.jpg<br />
Fig 209. FTL Moda (2015). http://s3-ec.buzzfed.com/static/2015-02/17/4/enhanced/webdr04/<br />
Fig 210. M&S Advert (2014). http://i.huffpost.com/gen/847035/thumbs/o-MS-KIDSWEAR-CHRISTMAS-facebook.<br />
jpg<br />
Fig 211. Unisex Collection (2015). http://klavertje.wendyonline.nl.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/<br />
uploads/2015/01/Selfridges_unisex.jpg<br />
Fig 212. Chapter Divider<br />
From Left to Right:<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk<br />
Universal Works Logo (2015). https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/478496728035782656/d4wQmDib.jpeg<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk<br />
Fig 213. Brand Essence Model<br />
88<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk<br />
Universal Works Logo (2015). https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/478496728035782656/d4wQmDib.jpeg<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk<br />
Fig 214. Perceptual Map<br />
Universal Works (2015). http://static1.squarespace.com/<br />
static/50a7f171e4b0ea694c51cd71/54b433f2e4b031fb9d66db7c/54b435bfe4b08db696ec7032/1421096394908/<br />
IMG_2246.jpg<br />
Barbour (2015). http://wjlondon.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_1183.jpg<br />
Diesel (2015). http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fbcyb2JmhqY/VL0pPaYYxYI/AAAAAAADKrI/4s7ovrKk-XY/s1600/dieselgold-black-001.JPG<br />
Tommy Hilfiger (2015). http://www.buro247.com/ima ges/obzor-buro-24-7-muzhskaya-kollektciya-gucci-osen-z-h.<br />
jpg<br />
Paul Smith (2015). https://aficionadol.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/paul-smith-aw-15-menswear-301.jpg<br />
Ted Baker (2015). http://ukhotfashion.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/ted-baker-look-for-men-768x1024.jpg<br />
Fig 215. Universal Works Store (2013). http://www.propermag.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/IMG_2872.jpg<br />
Fig 216. Interior Outdoors Mock Up (2015). http://st2.depositphotos.com/2332949/5930/i/950/<br />
depositphotos_59309759-Mock-up-white-frame-on-white-brick-wall.jpg [Altered]<br />
Fig 217. Universal Works <strong>AW15</strong> Show (2015). https://i.vimeocdn.com/video/502916145_640.jpg<br />
Fig 218. New Age Byzantine Mock Up (2015). http://previews.123rf.com/images/drillinginthedark/<br />
drillinginthedark0907/drillinginthedark090700009/5182856-Men-button-down-shirt-Stock-Vector-clothes.jpg<br />
[Altered]<br />
Fig 219. Universal Works Clothing (2015). http://www.universalworks.co.uk/journal/wp-content/<br />
uploads/2015/02/UWO1.jpg<br />
Fig 220. Master of the Runway Ideas.<br />
Clockwise from Top Left:<br />
Cuff Links (2013). http://weeklygravy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/cufflinks.jpg<br />
Collar Chain (2013). http://cdnb.lystit.com/photos/2013/06/05/river-island-gold-triangle-chain-collar-tipsproduct-1-10430657-893497765.jpeg<br />
Black Leather (2013). http://ommorphiabeautybar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/leather.jpg<br />
Grey Ties (2015). http://tbo.com/storyimage/TB/20150212/ARTICLE/150219756/EP/1/3/EP-150219756.jpg<br />
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Alice Hoar<br />
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