the source of new textile design talent - Texprint
the source of new textile design talent - Texprint
the source of new textile design talent - Texprint
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DESIGNS AND ACTIVITIES FROM TEXPRINT© 2010<br />
2010<br />
ANNUAL REPORT<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>source</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>new</strong> <strong>textile</strong> <strong>design</strong> <strong>talent</strong><br />
REGISTERED CHARITY NO: 1000411
TEXPRINT 2010 STARS WITH TEXPRINT MANAGEMENT TEAM AT FIRST VIEW, CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN, JULY 2010<br />
TEXPRINT ® IDENTIFIES, SELECTS AND LAUNCHES THE MOST<br />
INNOVATIVE TEXTILE DESIGN GRADUATES OF BRITISH COLLEGES<br />
TO INDUSTRY INTERNATIONALLY<br />
www.texprint.org.uk<br />
TEXPRINT ® REGISTERED OFFICE: 19 ROSKELL ROAD, LONDON SW15 IDS<br />
TELEPHONE: +44 (0) 20 8789 7527 FACSIMILE: +44 (0) 20 8789 5721<br />
e-mail: info@texprint.org.uk<br />
REGISTERED CHARITY NO: 1000411 VAT REGISTRATION NO: 562 2007 76
2010<br />
MAJOR SPONSORS<br />
BURBERRY<br />
CONFINDUSTRIA COMO<br />
THE CLOTHWORKERS’ FOUNDATION<br />
THE COTTON INDUSTRY WAR MEMORIAL TRUST<br />
DIANE von FURSTENBERG<br />
THE DRAPERS’ COMPANY<br />
GARFIELD WESTON FOUNDATION<br />
THE HABERDASHERS’ COMPANY<br />
INDIGO<br />
JAEGER<br />
THE LAURA ASHLEY FOUNDATION<br />
MARKS & SPENCER<br />
NEW LOOK<br />
SANDERSON ART IN INDUSTRY TRUST<br />
PRIZE SPONSORS<br />
The Clothworkers’ Foundation<br />
Liberty Art Fabrics<br />
Lyle & Scott<br />
Pantone Europe<br />
Pentland Group plc<br />
Sanderson Art in Industry Trust<br />
SPONSORING PUBLISHERS<br />
COLLEZIONI Trends<br />
VIEW Publications<br />
SUPPORTERS<br />
Aquascutum<br />
Boden<br />
Donna Karan<br />
Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong><br />
Giles Deacon<br />
Hobbs<br />
Lord Barnby’s Foundation<br />
Makower Prize Fund<br />
Miroglio Textile Srl/Ulmia<br />
Paul Smith<br />
Ratti SpA<br />
R.A. Smart Textile Printers<br />
Salvatore Ferragamo Italia SpA<br />
Swiss Textile Federation<br />
UKFT Textiles<br />
Weisbrod-Zuerrer AG<br />
The Worshipful Company <strong>of</strong> Weavers<br />
The Worshipful Company <strong>of</strong> World Traders<br />
IN-KIND SUPPORTERS<br />
Chelsea College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design<br />
D&AD Talentpool<br />
e-style<br />
Gallant Macmillan LLP<br />
Messe Frankfurt (HK)<br />
Mode Information<br />
R.A. Smart Ltd<br />
The Textile Institute<br />
Toray Textiles Europe Ltd<br />
WGSN<br />
2010<br />
1
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, WITH PETER RING-LEFEVRE, CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />
TEXPRINT, LOUISE TROTTER, AND GILLES LASBORDES, DIRECTOR INDIGO (MAJOR<br />
SPONSORS), IN THE TEXPRINT SCARF COMPETITION DISPLAY AREA KINDLY DONATED<br />
BY INDIGO.<br />
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, RETIRING CHAIRMAN TEXPRINT WITH LOUISE TROTTER,<br />
PRIZE PRESENTER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, JOSEPH AND BARBARA KENNINGTON,<br />
NEW CHAIRMAN TEXPRINT AT INDIGO, PARIS<br />
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE WITH PRIZE PRESENTER LOUISE TROTTER AND PETER<br />
RING-LEFEVRE, CREATIVE DIRECTOR TEXPRINT, AT ENTRANCE OF INDIGO, PARIS<br />
COMMENTS BY PRIZE PRESENTERS AT TEXPRINT,<br />
INDIGO, PARIS<br />
“Textile <strong>design</strong>ers need all <strong>the</strong> encouragement <strong>the</strong>y can get as <strong>the</strong>y play such a vital role in developing <strong>new</strong> fashion ideas<br />
and normally all <strong>the</strong> credit goes to <strong>the</strong> fashion <strong>design</strong>ers. I have just been round <strong>the</strong> stands and I was overwhelmed by all<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>new</strong> ideas that I saw.”<br />
Louise Trotter, Creative Director, Joseph, September 2010<br />
“What an amazing, exciting selection <strong>of</strong> work I have just seen! The <strong>talent</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 24 star <strong>textile</strong> graduates <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> class <strong>of</strong><br />
2009 is so inspiring – I am delighted that this <strong>talent</strong> should be showcased by <strong>Texprint</strong> at Indigo and Première Vision, <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s foremost <strong>textile</strong> fair.”<br />
Harold Tillman, Chairman British Fashion Council, Jaeger and Aquascutum, September 2009<br />
“It is fantastic to be involved with <strong>Texprint</strong>, as it is a great opportunity for <strong>the</strong> industry to meet <strong>design</strong>ers at <strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir career. Looking around today has really reinforced how important <strong>textile</strong> <strong>design</strong> is to <strong>the</strong> fashion and interiors<br />
industry. I wish everyone here <strong>the</strong> very best <strong>of</strong> luck with <strong>the</strong>ir future careers.”<br />
Sir Paul Smith, September 2008<br />
“<strong>Texprint</strong>, which is financed and organized by <strong>the</strong> top names <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> British fashion and clothing industries, is absolutely<br />
vital to get young <strong>talent</strong> started.”<br />
Sir Peter Westmacott, British Ambassador, September 2007<br />
2010<br />
“I think that <strong>the</strong> fashion industry is starving for this kind <strong>of</strong> work. When I am looking for prints I want to have modernity,<br />
things that are relevant for today’s life, and that is what I have seen at <strong>Texprint</strong>.”<br />
Alber Elbaz, Creative Director LANVI N, September 2006<br />
“I applaud <strong>Texprint</strong> and <strong>the</strong> opportunities it gives. All <strong>the</strong> <strong>design</strong>ers presenting here are winners, I congratulate you and<br />
advise you that everything changes now you are out in <strong>the</strong> industry. But do not be discouraged; above all stay true to<br />
yourselves, do what you believe in, do not compromise and have confidence in your <strong>talent</strong>s.”<br />
Nathan Jenden, Diane von Furstenberg, September 2005<br />
2
ANNUAL REPORT FOR TEXPRINT ® 2010<br />
Company Limited by Guarantee<br />
Registered Charity No.1000411<br />
HONORARY TRUSTEES &DIRECTORS:<br />
Hugh Beevor<br />
Julius Sch<strong>of</strong>ield, MBE<br />
Barbara Kennington<br />
Hon. Treasurer<br />
Hon. Chairman (retiring)<br />
Hon. Chairman<br />
MANAGEMENT:<br />
Joanna Bowring<br />
Helga Goldman<br />
Peter Ring-Lefevre<br />
Sponsorship Director<br />
CEO<br />
Creative Director<br />
COUNCIL:<br />
Peter Ackroyd, MBE<br />
Valerie Beattie<br />
Sarah Cheyne<br />
Sean Chiles<br />
Christian Dewar Durie<br />
Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Gasquet<br />
Gill Gledhill<br />
David Harvey<br />
Stephen Higginson,<br />
Janet Holbrook<br />
Tim Hoar<br />
Barbara Horspool<br />
Clare Johnston<br />
Jane Makower<br />
Emma Mawston<br />
Jaine McCormack<br />
Jane Rapley, OBE<br />
Kay Politowicz<br />
Anne Tyrrell, MBE<br />
Sandy Verdon,<br />
Philippa Watkins<br />
Ronald Weisbrod<br />
Campaign for Wool<br />
Loughborough University School <strong>of</strong> Art & Design<br />
Johnson Cheyne Design<br />
Northumbria University<br />
Journalist<br />
Mode Information<br />
GGHQ & Première Vision Pluriel<br />
Journalist / Representative Pitti Immagine<br />
Super-Vision<br />
Holbrook Studios<br />
Central St. Martin’s Innovation<br />
New Look<br />
Royal College <strong>of</strong> Art<br />
M.Makower & Co Ltd<br />
Liberty Art Fabrics<br />
Guy Goodfellow Ltd<br />
Central St. Martins College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design<br />
Chelsea College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design<br />
Anne Tyrrell Design<br />
Hobbs, Creative Director<br />
Journalist / Tutor RCA<br />
Weisbrod-Zuerrer AG<br />
OBSERVERS:<br />
Philippa George<br />
Gilian Little<br />
Dominic Lowe<br />
The Collection<br />
Freelance Designer and Tutor<br />
Sanderson Art in Industry Trust<br />
2010<br />
3
KOKO KASUGAI© PRINT DESIGNER JOSIE WARDEN© MIXED MEDIA DESIGNER EMMA BRADBURY© KNIT DESIGNER<br />
WHAT IS TEXPRINT?<br />
IT IS APROGRAMME TO PROMOTE THE MOST INNOVATIVE NEW TEXTILE DESIGNERS<br />
TO INDUSTRY WORLD-WIDE<br />
British art and <strong>design</strong> colleges have a leading international reputation for technical and creative training,<br />
especially in <strong>textile</strong>s and fashion.<br />
There are many <strong>talent</strong>ed <strong>design</strong>ers graduating but it is difficult for companies to find <strong>the</strong> right <strong>design</strong><br />
‘handwriting’ or <strong>the</strong> suitable creative person for <strong>the</strong>ir requirements.<br />
In a fragmented global industry even excellent graduates find it hard to know which companies to<br />
approach or <strong>the</strong> appropriate executive within <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
<strong>Texprint</strong> makes <strong>the</strong> best <strong>talent</strong> easily accessible to <strong>the</strong> industry, <strong>the</strong>reby helping <strong>the</strong> <strong>design</strong>ers establish<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir careers<br />
Over 200 top graduates <strong>of</strong> British colleges, <strong>of</strong> any nationality, are initially nominated to <strong>Texprint</strong> by<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir tutors.<br />
Tutorial-style panels <strong>of</strong> industry experts donate <strong>the</strong>ir time and expertise to help make <strong>the</strong> rigorous selection<br />
<strong>of</strong> 24 ‘stars’.<br />
Applicants are judged on <strong>the</strong> excellence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir work and <strong>the</strong>ir ability to make full use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> opportunity<br />
<strong>of</strong>fered.<br />
Those selected present <strong>the</strong>ir work initially in London at First View and <strong>the</strong>n to international industry at<br />
INDIGO, Paris within Première Vision Pluriel.<br />
Each star <strong>design</strong>er has <strong>the</strong>ir own stand in this international <strong>textile</strong> <strong>design</strong> specialist arena.<br />
Out <strong>of</strong> 175 exhibitors at INDIGO, 83 were British and <strong>of</strong> those 9 were <strong>Texprint</strong> alumni studios, with many<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r alumni working for o<strong>the</strong>r British and international studios.<br />
In September 2010 INDIGO attracted 12,046 visitors, <strong>of</strong> whom 71% were international, and <strong>the</strong> 6 Premiere<br />
Vision Pluriel shows (Exp<strong>of</strong>il, Premiere Vision, Indigo, Le Cuir a Paris, ModAmont, Zoom by Fatex) jointly<br />
registered 61,440 visits from fashion pr<strong>of</strong>essionals from over 100 countries across <strong>the</strong> world, an increase in<br />
attendance <strong>of</strong> over 10.2% over <strong>the</strong> September 2009 shows. All <strong>the</strong> visitors are potential clients for original<br />
<strong>textile</strong> <strong>design</strong>.<br />
Prior to <strong>the</strong> London show industry experts judge <strong>the</strong> <strong>design</strong>ers for six sponsored prizes.<br />
The six prize winners, sponsored by Messe Frankfurt (HK), exhibited also in <strong>the</strong> ‘Designers’ Studio’ section,<br />
at Interst<strong>of</strong>f Asia Essential in Hong Kong, an invaluable insight into <strong>the</strong> growing <strong>source</strong> <strong>of</strong> production.<br />
2010<br />
Designers originally selected by <strong>the</strong> programme are in jobs or have been working regularly with companies<br />
as varied as ANTHROPOLOGIE, ARMANI EXCHANGE, BURBERRY, CALVIN KLEIN, CELINE,<br />
CERRUTI, CHLOE, CHRISTIAN LACROIX, DAMIEN HIRST, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, ETRO,<br />
DONNA KARAN, FERRAGAMO, GILES DEACON, GUCCI, HABITAT, HERMES, JAEGER, LANVIN,<br />
LEGGIUNO, LIBERTY ART FABRIC, MANGO, MARKS & SPENCER, MAX AZRIA BCBG, MIROGLIO,<br />
MISSONI, NEXT, NEW LOOK, PAUL SMITH, POLO-RALPH LAUREN, RATTI, SALVATORE<br />
FERRAGAMO, STELLA MACARTNEY, VERSACE SPORT, ZARA HOME.<br />
<strong>Texprint</strong> alumni work is regularly seen on leading <strong>design</strong>er’s runways - but unlike fashion <strong>design</strong>ers <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
names are rarely publicised. Without <strong>textile</strong>s, however, <strong>the</strong>re would be no fashion... no clothing...<br />
TEXPRINT® was established over 40 years ago and has helped over 7,000 <strong>design</strong>ers at <strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
careers. Innumerable <strong>design</strong> houses and <strong>textile</strong> companies in fashion and furnishing have benefited.<br />
<strong>Texprint</strong> is seeking funds, now, to continue its activities for TEXPRINT 2011<br />
4
SIR STUART ROSE PRESENTS ANDREW STEVENSON WITH THE CHAIRMANʼS PRIZE,<br />
KINDLY SPONSORED BY RETIRING CHAIRMAN JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, AT MARKS &<br />
SPENCER FLAGSHIP STORE, MARBLE ARCH IN SEPTEMBER. MARKS & SPENCER ARE<br />
MAJOR SPONSORS.<br />
RETIRING CHAIRMAN JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, PRIZE PRESENTER LOUISE TROTTER<br />
AND CHAIRMAN BARBARA KENNINGTON WITH THE SIX TEXPRINT 2010 PRIZE<br />
WINNERS AT INDIGO. L-R: ANDREW STEVENSON, ELENA MUNOZ, HOLLY BRADLEY-<br />
GILL, REBECCA PHOENIX LU, ANDREW BOYD AND SARAH PODLESNY.<br />
CHAIRMAN’S REPORT<br />
<strong>Texprint</strong> 2010: a year <strong>of</strong> transition, consolidation and creativity<br />
On behalf <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> executive, I’d like to extend our appreciation to Julius Sch<strong>of</strong>ield, MBE who retired in<br />
October. Julius has been both Honorary Chairman and a Trustee <strong>of</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> since 2004. His seven-year tenure<br />
has been one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most dynamic in recent <strong>Texprint</strong> history, with Julius personally sponsoring <strong>the</strong> annual<br />
Chairman’s Prize, championing closer collaborations with Confindustria Como, and persuading major<br />
international fashion <strong>design</strong>ers and brands, such as Donna Karan and Diane von Furstenberg in New York, and<br />
Burberry, Aquascutum, Paul Smith, Jaeger and New Look in London, to become supporters and sponsors. We<br />
were delighted that Julius' contribution to <strong>the</strong> industry was recognised with an MBE in <strong>the</strong> New Year's Honours.<br />
Earlier this year I was invited to become Julius’ successor. Given that my career has been firmly embedded in<br />
<strong>the</strong> fashion and texiles industry for many years, I was delighted to accept and look forward to using my<br />
experience to fur<strong>the</strong>r enhance <strong>Texprint</strong>’s creative positioning both in <strong>the</strong> UK and abroad.<br />
<strong>Texprint</strong> is fortunate in enjoying <strong>the</strong> generosity <strong>of</strong> many companies and individuals who contribute in so many<br />
ways. We are indebted to <strong>the</strong> continuing benevolence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> charitable trusts and livery companies as Major<br />
Sponsors - <strong>the</strong> Clothworkers’ Foundation, <strong>the</strong> Cotton Industry War Memorial Trust, <strong>the</strong> Drapers’ Company,<br />
Garfield Weston Foundation, <strong>the</strong> Haberdashers’ Company, <strong>the</strong> Laura Ashley Foundation and <strong>the</strong> Sanderson Art<br />
in Industry Trust, with <strong>the</strong> Worshipful Company <strong>of</strong> Weavers continuing as Supporters and, <strong>new</strong> this year, <strong>the</strong><br />
Worshipful Company <strong>of</strong> World Traders.<br />
Chelsea College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design in London, Indigo in Paris, and Messe Frankfurt (HK) in Hong Kong gave us<br />
<strong>the</strong> context <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir wonderful exhibition spaces; our thanks to <strong>the</strong> individuals, many <strong>of</strong> whom are ex-<strong>Texprint</strong><br />
<strong>design</strong>ers <strong>the</strong>mselves, who gave <strong>the</strong>ir time and expertise during <strong>the</strong> intensive interview programme; and to our<br />
judges at First View - Elena Alfani, Peter Copping, Wakako Kishimoto, Donna Wilson, Derrick Campbell and Sally<br />
Taylor.<br />
Our thanks also to Sir Stuart Rose <strong>of</strong> Marks & Spencer, long-term Major Sponsors, who presented <strong>the</strong> Chairman’s<br />
Prize, and Louise Trotter, <strong>design</strong> director at Joseph, who presented <strong>the</strong> prizes to our award winners at Indigo.<br />
The inter-college competitions – ComON <strong>Texprint</strong> and Silk Scarf competitions – were enthusiastically received,<br />
again providing an international platform for British <strong>design</strong>ers, and an invaluable introduction to <strong>the</strong> Italian<br />
<strong>textile</strong> industry.<br />
2010 has been a challenging year, and 2011 will undoubtedly follow suit. It is never easy to drive and increase<br />
sponsorship programmes, however <strong>the</strong> indications are that despite difficult financial and economic times,<br />
companies and individuals are placing still greater store in philanthropic activities and are actively supporting<br />
organisations that really do make a difference.<br />
We are delighted to confirm <strong>the</strong> first <strong>of</strong> our Foundation Sponsors - The Clothworker’s Foundation, <strong>the</strong> Drapers’<br />
Company and Woolmark International supporting <strong>the</strong> Campaign for Wool, have all made longer-term<br />
commitments to <strong>Texprint</strong> for which we are most grateful.<br />
Looking to <strong>the</strong> future, our aim is to build greater financial security for <strong>Texprint</strong>, to raise international awareness<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> <strong>design</strong>ers and alumni, and to promote <strong>Texprint</strong> as central to <strong>the</strong> support <strong>of</strong> creative <strong>textile</strong> <strong>design</strong> in<br />
<strong>the</strong> UK.<br />
The online world <strong>of</strong>fers great potential. Given that enhanced communication, social networking and <strong>the</strong><br />
development <strong>of</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong>’s online community are key for <strong>the</strong> future, we have re<strong>design</strong>ed <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> website,<br />
which is at phase 1 <strong>of</strong> a <strong>new</strong> structure.<br />
We are delighted to announce an additional prize. The Woolmark <strong>Texprint</strong> Award 2011 marks <strong>the</strong> return <strong>of</strong><br />
Woolmark International as Major Sponsors, and will be judged and presented at Indigo in Paris. This is a very<br />
exciting development - not only for <strong>Texprint</strong>, but also for <strong>the</strong> British <strong>design</strong> colleges who will benefit from <strong>the</strong><br />
Woolmark tutorial programme.<br />
The ongoing support and generosity <strong>of</strong> our sponsors, prize donors and supporters is hugely appreciated. We<br />
will continue to work closely with <strong>the</strong>m, ensuring <strong>the</strong>y too benefit from <strong>the</strong> relationship – by supporting British<br />
<strong>talent</strong>, supporting innovative <strong>design</strong>, and in many cases, benefitting from early commercial access to innovative<br />
<strong>new</strong> ideas and <strong>textile</strong> concepts.<br />
2010<br />
Barbara Kennington<br />
Chairman 5
SELECTION PANEL TIPHAINE PIGGOTT, CAITLIN HINSHELWOOD, KATIE GREENYER<br />
(ALL TEXPRINT ALUMNI) BARBARA KENNINGTON (NEW CHAIRMAN) JOANNA BOWRING<br />
AND PETER RING-LEFEVRE INTERVIEW FOR TEXPRINT 2010<br />
TEXPRINT 2010 PRIZE JUDGES WAKAKO KISHIMOTO AND DONNA WILSON TALK TO<br />
DESIGNERS ABOUT THEIR COLLECTION<br />
PRIZE JUDGES PETER COPPING, NINA RICCI WITH ENID BROWN AND DERRICK<br />
CAMPBELL, LYLE & SCOTT (KNIT PRIZE DONOR) IN DISCUSSION<br />
GUESTS AT THE FIRST VIEW PRIVATE VIEW CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN IN<br />
JULY 2010<br />
FINANCIAL REPORT<br />
AUDITED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS FOR 2009: In <strong>the</strong> expectation <strong>of</strong> extremely difficult financial conditions<br />
an early approach to Supporters and Sponsors fortunately met with a very positive response and early commitments<br />
were received to ensure <strong>the</strong> year's programme. Sponsorship and o<strong>the</strong>r income at £210,000 even exceeded slightly<br />
our target. At <strong>the</strong> same time some one <strong>of</strong>f savings were made in fees and costs were cut to <strong>the</strong> minimum. Expenses<br />
at £187,000 were £15,000 lower than <strong>the</strong> previous year. As a result after <strong>the</strong> deficit suffered in 2008 <strong>of</strong> £13,000, a<br />
surplus <strong>of</strong> £24,000 was recorded. This enabled <strong>Texprint</strong> to replenish its Reserves which rose to £77,000.<br />
2010<br />
FINANCIAL POSITION IN 2010: The year proved as difficult as expected for our Sponsors and Supporters,<br />
not all <strong>of</strong> whom could maintain <strong>the</strong>ir sponsorship <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Programme. In addition we had been advised by one<br />
Major Sponsor that <strong>the</strong>ir contribution would be phased out over three years and ano<strong>the</strong>r Major Sponsor<br />
withdrew for a year. As a result our income dropped and a deficit is expected similar in size to <strong>the</strong> surplus<br />
earned in 2009, which will leave our Reserves back at <strong>the</strong>ir 2008 level. Our Reserves are important to secure<br />
<strong>the</strong> future <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> programme and for funding working capital during <strong>the</strong> year. To support our drive for more<br />
stable funding, we have created a <strong>new</strong> class <strong>of</strong> Major Sponsor as Foundation Sponsors for those willing to<br />
commit for two years or more. To date we already have three Foundation Sponsors.<br />
Hugh Beevor<br />
Hon. Treasurer<br />
6
TEXPRINT 2010 PRIZE JUDGES AND STARS AT FIRST VIEW, CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN<br />
HIGHLIGHTS OF 2010<br />
BACKGROUND<br />
Great Britain continues to be recognised as a major <strong>source</strong> <strong>of</strong> original <strong>textile</strong> <strong>design</strong>. British studios were<br />
<strong>the</strong> largest national contingent <strong>of</strong> exhibitors at INDIGO, Paris, September 2010, making up 51% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
show, and <strong>of</strong> those 9% were <strong>Texprint</strong> alumni, with many o<strong>the</strong>rs working for o<strong>the</strong>r British and international<br />
studios.<br />
<strong>Texprint</strong> is <strong>the</strong> main link for <strong>new</strong> graduate <strong>textile</strong> <strong>design</strong>ers seeking work in a world market arena.<br />
New top <strong>talent</strong> is made easily accessible to international industry.<br />
TEXPRINT 2010<br />
First View, London and Prize Judging Day for sixth year at The Triangle Building, generously provided<br />
by Chelsea College <strong>of</strong> Art and Design.<br />
Third year <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ComON <strong>Texprint</strong> inter-college competition creating <strong>new</strong> links between <strong>Texprint</strong> and<br />
<strong>the</strong> top UK universities, and a complementary attraction at First View.<br />
Fifth year <strong>of</strong> The Chairman’s Prize –guestsandvisitorsto<strong>the</strong>Londoneventsvotedfor<strong>the</strong>irchoice;<br />
Chairman’s Private View a great success; <strong>Texprint</strong> News developed; highest ever level <strong>of</strong> visitors to First<br />
View.<br />
Exciting show <strong>of</strong> <strong>talent</strong> - good proportion <strong>of</strong> disciplines across 24 young <strong>design</strong>ers selected from <strong>the</strong> best<br />
print, knit, weave, embroidery and mixed-media courses in UK colleges.<br />
Dedicated exhibition space for <strong>Texprint</strong> Silk Scarf Competition at Indigo kindly given by Indigo<br />
Record commissions and freelance positions at Indigo despite ongoing difficulties in economic climate:<br />
Commissions doubled against last year, and placements were up from 14 to 17. Twenty two out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
twenty four <strong>design</strong>ers sold, making a total <strong>of</strong> 102 sales to 48 clients.<br />
Louise Trotter, Creative Director <strong>of</strong> Joseph presented <strong>the</strong> prizes at INDIGO.<br />
<strong>Texprint</strong> 2011: Dynamic <strong>new</strong> developments in <strong>the</strong> pipeline and <strong>new</strong> sponsors needed.<br />
2010<br />
7
THE PRIZE JUDGES DISCUSSING THEIR SELECTION<br />
PETER COPPING, NINA RICCI, PRIZE JUDGE OF BREAKING NEW GROUND TALKS TO<br />
SUSIE FOSTER ABOUT HER WORK<br />
MANAGEMENT REPORT<br />
PRIZE JUDGES PETER COPPING, JACQUELINE EDNIE AND SALLY TAYLOR OF<br />
BURBERRY (MAJOR SPONSORS) DERRICK CAMPBELL OF LYLE & SCOTT (KNIT PRIZE<br />
DONORS), SARA CALOSI AND ELENA ALFANI OF SALVATORE FERRAGAMO<br />
(SUPPORTERS), WAKAKO KISHIMOTO AND DONNA WILSON FOR HEALʼS ANNOUNCE<br />
THE PRIZE WINNERS<br />
Continuing Success for <strong>Texprint</strong><br />
Although this has been a very difficult year for fundraising, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> programme successfully delivered twenty-four<br />
<strong>new</strong> <strong>textile</strong> <strong>design</strong> <strong>talent</strong>s to <strong>the</strong> industry, plus two inter-college competitions –<strong>the</strong> 3rd ComON <strong>Texprint</strong> competition<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Silk Scarf competition, all <strong>of</strong> which provided a fitting finale to <strong>the</strong> last year <strong>of</strong> Julius Sch<strong>of</strong>ield’s chairmanship,<br />
as mentioned in <strong>the</strong> Chairman’s report. Following <strong>the</strong>ir display at Direction in New York in January, <strong>the</strong> winning <strong>design</strong>s<br />
in last year’s Silk Scarf competition were on sale in <strong>the</strong> prestigious scarf department in Liberty, resulting in much<br />
publicity. First View, which took place once again in <strong>the</strong> venue kindly donated by Chelsea College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design,<br />
proved to be very successful, with a strong set <strong>of</strong> judges and displays <strong>of</strong> both inter-college competitions. The Chairman’s<br />
Prize was presented by Sir Stuart Rose at <strong>the</strong> Marks & Spencer flagship store. Indigo, despite being reduced to three<br />
days with <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> Premiere Vision Pluriel, was extremely enlightening and rewarding for <strong>the</strong> young <strong>design</strong>ers, with<br />
commissions, freelance work <strong>of</strong>fers and placements up on last year. The Prize Presentation provided <strong>the</strong> opportunity<br />
for Julius Sch<strong>of</strong>ield MBE to announce his retirement and formally hand over to Barbara Kennington, who introduced<br />
Louise Trotter, Creative Director <strong>of</strong> Joseph, as Prize Presenter. Once again, <strong>the</strong> six prizewinners had <strong>the</strong> opportunity to<br />
exhibit in Hong Kong at Interst<strong>of</strong>f Asia Essential, sponsored by Messe Frankfurt (HK), which <strong>the</strong>y all found a very<br />
enriching experience.<br />
Ever wider interest from Colleges and Universities.<br />
There was a total <strong>of</strong> 218 submissions, with 175 students nominated from 30 colleges being interviewed. The<br />
<strong>new</strong>comer institute this year was <strong>the</strong> Arts University at Bournemouth. The liaison between tutors and <strong>Texprint</strong><br />
continues to be good, resulting in better understanding <strong>of</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong>’s criteria for selection. As before, some<br />
colleges did not participate this year as <strong>the</strong>y felt <strong>the</strong>y had no candidates <strong>the</strong>y considered right for <strong>Texprint</strong>, but<br />
hope to be back again next year.<br />
2010<br />
Interview Panels - The Selection<br />
This involved 36 pr<strong>of</strong>essionals, and included some <strong>new</strong> names recommended by Council Members. We owe<br />
<strong>the</strong>m huge thanks for giving a day <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir time along with <strong>the</strong>ir invaluable expertise and enthusiasm. We do<br />
sometimes get feed back from students interviewed but not selected, and invariably <strong>the</strong>y comment on how<br />
valuable <strong>the</strong>y found <strong>the</strong> experience and how much <strong>the</strong> Panels' comments had helped <strong>the</strong>m to see <strong>the</strong>ir work in<br />
atotally<strong>new</strong>way.Thefinalselectionwas8Print/5Knit/5Weave/6MixedMedia.Thequality<strong>of</strong>graduates<br />
work was very high, making <strong>the</strong> final choice a challenge and resulting in fewer reserves. Knit and Weave were<br />
slightly down in final numbers but complimented by strong Print and Mixed Media.<br />
Three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> six prize winners were drawn from Central St Martin’s College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design, with one each<br />
from <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong> Brighton, Cleveland College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design and <strong>the</strong> Royal College <strong>of</strong> Art.<br />
8
JACQUELINE EDNIE AND SALLY TAYLOR, BURBERRY (MAJOR SPONSORS) WITH JOHN<br />
HODGES AND JOHN SNOWDON, WORSHIPFUL COMPANY OF WEAVERS<br />
(SUPPORTERS) AT THE PRIVATE VIEW RECEPTION, FIRST VIEW, CHELSEA COLLEGE<br />
OF ART & DESIGN<br />
JANE ASHLEY, THE LAURA ASHLEY FOUNDATION (MAJOR SPONSORS) WITH CLARE<br />
JOHNSTON, PROFESSOR OF TEXTILES, RCA AT PRIVATE VIEW, FIRST VIEW<br />
ALASTAIR ROSS, DRAPERSʼ COMPANY (MAJOR SPONSORS) TALKS TO RACHAEL<br />
HEWSON AT FIRST VIEW<br />
HAROLD TILLMAN CBE, CHAIRMAN BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL, JAEGER AND<br />
AQUASCUTUM (MAJOR SPONSORS) WITH BARBARA HORSPOOL, NEW LOOK (MAJOR<br />
SPONSORS) AND ERIC MUSGRAVE, UKFT (SUPPORTERS) AT PRIVATE VIEW FIRST<br />
VIEW<br />
2010<br />
EMMA MAWSTON, LIBERTY ART FABRICS (PRINT PRIZE DONORS) WITH REBECCA<br />
PHOENIX LU, WINNER OF THE PRINT PRIZE<br />
DERRICK CAMPBELL AND ENID BROWNE, LYLE & SCOTT (KNIT PRIZE DONORS AND<br />
JUDGES), TALKING TO ELENA MUNOZ, WINNER OF THE KNIT CATEGORY<br />
9
ANDREW BLESSLEY, CLOTHWORKERSʼ FOUNDATION (MAJOR SPONSORS AND WEAVE<br />
PRIZE DONORS) TAKES A CLOSER LOOK AT THE WORK OF HOLLY BRADLEY-GILL,<br />
WEAVE PRIZE WINNER AT FIRST VIEW<br />
ANDREW STEVENSON, WINNER OF THE INTERIOR FASHION PRIZE, WITH DOMINIC<br />
LOWE (MAJOR SPONSORS AND DONOR OF INTERIOR FASHION PRIZE), WITH FIONA<br />
BINNS AT FIRST VIEW<br />
REBECCA PHOENIX LU, PRINT PRIZE WINNER WITH ALISON SMART, RA SMART<br />
TEXTILE PRINTERS (SUPPORTERS AND IN-KIND DONORS) AT FIRST VIEW<br />
HAROLD TILLMAN CBE, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL, JAEGER AND AQUASCUTUM<br />
(MAJOR SPONSORS) WITH SANDY VERDON, HOBBS (SUPPORTERS) AT THE PRIVATE<br />
VIEW<br />
PRIZE JUDGING, LONDON<br />
As before, we were indebted to <strong>the</strong> retiring Chairman, Julius Sch<strong>of</strong>ield, in obtaining high pr<strong>of</strong>ile judges to select<br />
<strong>the</strong> special prize winners this year. The prize judges were Peter Copping, Creative Director <strong>of</strong> Nina Ricci for<br />
Breaking New Ground,Wakako Kishimoto <strong>of</strong> Eley Kishimoto for Colour, Donna Wilson for Heal’s for Interior<br />
Fashion, Derrick Campbell, CEO Lyle & Scott for Knit, Elena Alfani <strong>of</strong> Salvatore Ferragamo for Print and<br />
Sally Taylor <strong>of</strong> Burberry for Weave. The judges were all very impressed with <strong>the</strong> high quality <strong>of</strong> creativity.<br />
Three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 2009 prize donors - Pantone Europe, Liberty Art Fabrics and Lyle & Scott continued with <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
sponsorship for 2010, for which we are very grateful, with Liberty Art Fabrics pledging <strong>the</strong>ir support for <strong>the</strong><br />
Print prize for three years. Once again The Sanderson Art in Industry Trust kindly agreed to add <strong>the</strong> prize <strong>of</strong><br />
Interior Fashion to <strong>the</strong>ir Major Sponsorship donation. The Breaking New Ground prize was sponsored for <strong>the</strong><br />
first time by <strong>the</strong> Pentland Group and The Clothworkers’ Foundation also generously added <strong>the</strong> Weave prize<br />
to <strong>the</strong>ir Major Sponsorship, which <strong>the</strong>y later pledged to continue for <strong>the</strong> next three years. <strong>Texprint</strong> is, as always,<br />
indebted to <strong>the</strong> benevolence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> prize donors.<br />
The prize judges were enthusiastic in <strong>the</strong>ir praise <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> programme:<br />
Derrick Campbell commented “<strong>Texprint</strong>’s great value to <strong>the</strong> industry is not only <strong>the</strong> support it gives to <strong>the</strong> <strong>design</strong>ers<br />
but also <strong>the</strong> way it keeps <strong>the</strong> industry aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>new</strong> thinking. New graduates bring creativity and a fresh approach to<br />
<strong>the</strong> industry - sometimes <strong>the</strong>y can inspire you towards a fresh spin on your own business.”<br />
Wakako Kishimoto reflected “New graduates are to <strong>the</strong> industry as oxygen is to <strong>the</strong> blood stream. Without a regular<br />
<strong>new</strong> supply <strong>of</strong> it, <strong>the</strong> whole system would simply deteriorate and cease to survive. A promotional mechanism like <strong>Texprint</strong><br />
can give <strong>the</strong>m a wider opportunity in <strong>the</strong> early stages <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir career.”<br />
Sally Taylor said “During my time at Burberry I have recognised <strong>the</strong> growing importance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> programme<br />
–infact,many<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>keycreativepersonnelaregraduates<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>RCAandsubsequentlyalumni<strong>of</strong><strong>Texprint</strong>. Itisapparent<br />
that <strong>Texprint</strong> fulfils an important function, bridging <strong>the</strong> period between an individual’s education and <strong>the</strong> beginning <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir pr<strong>of</strong>essional experience.”<br />
2010<br />
10<br />
LONDON EVENTS AND CHAIRMAN’S PRIZE<br />
For <strong>the</strong> sixth year, <strong>the</strong> retiring Chairman very generously sponsored <strong>the</strong> Private View which was well attended,<br />
and included representatives from sponsors and supporters such as Burberry, Jaeger, New Look, Liberty Art<br />
Fabrics, Marks & Spencer, WGSN and The Worshipful Company <strong>of</strong> Weavers, aswellasmanyfrom<strong>the</strong>major<br />
art colleges and universities.<br />
The winner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Chairman’s Prize, created and sponsored by <strong>the</strong> retiring Chairman, was as always chosen by<br />
visitors to <strong>the</strong> Private View and First View, and <strong>the</strong> prize presenter was Sir Stuart Rose who has been a stalwart<br />
supporter <strong>of</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> for many years. The presentation took place on September 7 at <strong>the</strong> Marks & Spencer<br />
flagship store at Marble Arch. The winner was Andrew Stevenson from <strong>the</strong> RCA, who also won <strong>the</strong> Interior<br />
Fashion prize.
COMON TEXPRINT ʻWATERʼ COMPETITION SPONSORED BY CONFINDUSTRIA COMO<br />
(MAJOR SPONSORS) DISPLAYED DURING FIRST VIEW IN THE FOUNDATION STUDIOS<br />
AT CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN<br />
PAOLO NOSEDA, CONFINDUSTRIA COMO (MAJOR SPONSORS) AND BARBARA<br />
HORSPOOL, NEW LOOK (MAJOR SPONSORS) JUDGES OF THE COMON TEXPRINT<br />
COMPETITION<br />
12th FIRST VIEW EXHIBITION<br />
Once again, Chelsea College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design generously donated <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Triangle Building and <strong>the</strong><br />
Foundation Studio for First View, again sponsored by <strong>the</strong> Laura Ashley Foundation. The mentoring given by<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> team, toge<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> ‘Need to Know’ pack sponsored as before by <strong>the</strong> Worshipful Company <strong>of</strong><br />
Weavers and a workshop on copyright by Simon Gallant <strong>of</strong> Gallant Macmillan helped prepare <strong>the</strong> young<br />
<strong>design</strong>ers in depth for <strong>the</strong>ir pr<strong>of</strong>essional careers. The ‘<strong>Texprint</strong> News’ edited by Brenda Polan and Sean Chiles<br />
once again provided invaluable background to <strong>the</strong> 24 <strong>Texprint</strong> stars and <strong>the</strong> judges, for which we are very<br />
grateful.<br />
This year <strong>the</strong> display at <strong>the</strong> entrance featured a selection from <strong>the</strong> <strong>new</strong> collection <strong>of</strong> Alice Temperley. The<br />
product display presented work by Michael Angove (1995) Leigh Cooke (1995) Caitlin Hinshelwood (2006),<br />
Rosie De Borman (2006) Akiko Kingsbury (2001) Ed Forster (2007) for Liberty Art Fabrics, Alice Palmer<br />
(2007) Eleanor Pritchard (2001) Jessica Quinton (1986) for Quinton Chadwick, Margo Selby (2001) and<br />
Emma Sewell (1990) for Wallace Sewell.<br />
The twelfth First View event was also attended by some <strong>of</strong> last year’s alumni who were invited for <strong>the</strong> first time,<br />
and <strong>the</strong> intention is to open First View to all alumni and all invited visitors, ra<strong>the</strong>r than only major sponsors and<br />
supporters, as now virtually no actual buying takes place by supporters. Although <strong>the</strong>re were no sales, placements<br />
were <strong>of</strong>fered by Ratti, Salvatore Ferragamo, Marks & Spencer, Johnson Cheyne Design and Pentland Group.<br />
This year <strong>the</strong> display included <strong>the</strong> 3rd ComON <strong>Texprint</strong> competition exhibition and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> Silk Scarf<br />
competition, which toge<strong>the</strong>r with First View proved to be a real crowd puller and a grand finale for <strong>the</strong> last year<br />
<strong>of</strong> Julius Sch<strong>of</strong>ield’s chairmanship. We are indebted to Barbara Horspool and New Look for so generously<br />
creating all <strong>the</strong> displays at First View.<br />
THE TEXPRINT INTER-COLLEGE COMPETITIONS<br />
ComON<strong>Texprint</strong> Competition: ThiswassupportedbymajorsponsorsConfindustriaComo(formerlyComo<br />
Unione Industriali), and had a different approach this year; <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>me was ‘Water’, with submitted outfits to<br />
include weave, print and embroidery. Barbara Horspool <strong>of</strong> New Look and Paolo Noseda were <strong>the</strong> judges, and<br />
<strong>the</strong> winner was Chelsea College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design, second was Ravensbourne and third was Brighton. The<br />
<strong>design</strong>ers were given a financial prize and <strong>the</strong> opportunity to visit <strong>the</strong> ComON conference in Italy.<br />
The ComON week in Como continued to focus on showing <strong>the</strong> 40 international <strong>textile</strong> and fashion graduates<br />
invited how Como functions through many seminars, exhibitions and industry visits (notably Canepa SpA, Ratti,<br />
Mantero and Clarici Tessuto and <strong>the</strong>ir famous archives). Visit to The Fondazione Ratti Textile Museum and a<br />
TrendsON presentation by Li Edelkoort were exemplary additions carried over from last year. Several interactive<br />
workshops included Politecnico Milano presentations <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir involvement with <strong>new</strong> Chinese Textile <strong>design</strong>ers<br />
and creating <strong>the</strong> mood boards for Moda di Mare at <strong>the</strong> Accademia di Belle Arti, to be shown at <strong>the</strong> exhibition<br />
in Cannes in November. The visit to Hugo Boss HQ in Switzerland was a major highlight, with <strong>the</strong> opportunity<br />
to meet <strong>design</strong>ers Anton Magnani and Ian Allen (ex RCA).<br />
The 3 winning Water Competition garments were presented by <strong>the</strong>ir creators to <strong>the</strong> international graduates<br />
attending at <strong>the</strong> Politecnico Como. The ETT group (European Textile Technology) also presented <strong>the</strong>ir work<br />
from <strong>the</strong>ir studies at <strong>the</strong> Dutch Textil Museum in Tilburg.<br />
<strong>Texprint</strong> Silk Scarf competition:Thiswas<strong>the</strong>thirdandfinalyear<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>silkscarfcompetition,andwasstaged<br />
through <strong>the</strong> generosity <strong>of</strong> retiring Chairman Julius Sch<strong>of</strong>ield MBE, with <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>me <strong>of</strong> ‘I love Paris’. The judges<br />
were Gilles Lasbordes <strong>of</strong> Indigo, who had kindly agreed to make available a large display area for <strong>the</strong> scarves<br />
at Indigo in September, and Elena Alfani <strong>of</strong> Salvatore Ferragamo. The standard was agreed to be higher than<br />
ever, and <strong>the</strong> submitted <strong>design</strong>s were presented in an exhibition in <strong>the</strong> Foundation Studio, with <strong>the</strong> prize winners<br />
announced at an event on <strong>the</strong> Thursday evening, attended by representatives from all <strong>the</strong> major art colleges as<br />
well as <strong>the</strong> judges. The winner was <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong> East London, second was Loughborough and third was<br />
Cleveland, and <strong>the</strong> winner was invited to attend <strong>the</strong> ComON event as well.<br />
2010<br />
11
INTERESTED ACTIVITY IN THE TEXPRINT VILLAGE AT INDIGO, PARIS IN SEPTEMBER<br />
LOUISE TROTTER, JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, BARBARA KENNINGTON AND GILLES<br />
LASBORDES AT INDIGO<br />
LOUISE TROTTER AND JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE TALK TO ANDREW BOYD, COLOUR<br />
PRIZE WINNER, ABOUT HIS WORK<br />
BARBARA KENNINGTON, NEW CHAIRMAN, WELCOMES GUESTS TO THE PRIZE<br />
PRESENTATION AT INDIGO<br />
SIGNIFICANT ACTIVITY AT TEXPRINT AT INDIGO, PARIS<br />
As part <strong>of</strong> Premiere Vision Pluriel, Indigo reduced its duration to three days from four, with considerable activity<br />
on <strong>the</strong> first day in particular. Indigo had 12,046 visitors <strong>of</strong> whom 71% were international. There were 175<br />
exhibitors from 14 countries (up from 163 exhibitors from 12 countries in 2009), <strong>of</strong> which 83 were British, and<br />
<strong>of</strong> those 9 were <strong>Texprint</strong> alumni, with many o<strong>the</strong>r alumni working for o<strong>the</strong>r British and international studios.<br />
Twenty-two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> twenty-four <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>design</strong>ers sold, making a total <strong>of</strong> 102 sales from 48 clients (down from <strong>the</strong><br />
record 132 from 62 clients in 2009). However, commissions doubled to 29 against 14 last year, and placements<br />
also were up from 14 to 17 this year, though job <strong>of</strong>fers declined to 10 from 15 last year, reflecting <strong>the</strong> continuing<br />
uncertainties in <strong>the</strong> industry. The total number <strong>of</strong> contacts was slightly down at 329 (369 in 2009) with <strong>the</strong> UK<br />
still in <strong>the</strong> lead at 90 (113 in 2009) and France next at 56 (62 in 2009), but Italy was up to 45 from 39, replacing<br />
<strong>the</strong> USA in third place, and 26 from Spain, up 100% from last year. However it should be pointed out that not<br />
every contact is necessarily written down by <strong>the</strong> individual <strong>design</strong>ers, and this year <strong>the</strong>y appeared to have been<br />
more selective in general.<br />
2010<br />
As last year, companies individually bought less but were spread widely. The largest individual buyers were from<br />
Spain - Custo (17 <strong>design</strong>s from 4 <strong>design</strong>ers) and Calao (8 from 2) and Italian companies buying included<br />
Eurojersey (bought 6 from 1 <strong>design</strong>er), Stefanel, Star SpA, Marco Fantini and L’Altra Moda SpA. O<strong>the</strong>r brands<br />
who bought included Chico’s, Descamps, Brigid Maclaughlin, Desigual, East, Fenn Wright & Manson, Guy<br />
Laroche, Jorge Fusco, Hanno St<strong>of</strong>fo, Les Tissus Marey, Lululemonathletica, Monsoon Accessorise, Mun<strong>the</strong> Plus<br />
Simonsen, Nautica, Nelly Rodi, Printland, Rachel Roy, Stewo International, Tracy Reese, Ugg, Urban Outfitters,<br />
Valdese Weavers, White Stuff and Yumi Uttam, and contacts included Anthropologie, Boden, Closed, Colorfield,<br />
Confetti, Didier Parakian, Eres, Erica, Industria Tessile, Eyefix International, Fabbi, Fat Face, Fiorucci, Fusion,<br />
Gerard Duval, H&M, Hiroko Koshino, Isabel Marant, John Galliano, Kate Spade, KBC, Lola et Moi, Maje,<br />
Marimekko, Masfer Su, Nathalie d’Anvers, Next, Nike, Rachel Roy, Radley & Co, Rohnisch Sportswear, RSD Lab,<br />
Swarovski, Tom Cody Designs, Uniqlo, Vlisco, Wrangler and Zucchi Group.<br />
12
ELENA MUNOZ WITH SU WANG, DIRECTOR OF MONDIAL ATELIER AND HER TEAM AT<br />
INTERSTOFF ASIA ESSENTIAL IN HONG KONG<br />
THE SIX TEXPRINT 2009 PRIZE WINNERS AT INTERSTOFF ASIA ESSENTIAL,<br />
HONG KONG IN OCTOBER 2010.<br />
CATHERINE LEE FROM UKT&I HONG KONG WITH HOLLY BRADLEY-GILL AND<br />
ANDREW BOYD AT INTERSTOFF ASIA ESSENTIAL<br />
REBECCA PHOENIX LU WITH BUYERS FROM WILSON TEXTILES, PART OF LI & FUNG<br />
GROUP, AT INTERSTOFF ASIA ESSENTIAL<br />
PRIZE PRESENTATION BY LOUISE TROTTER, CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />
The Prize Presentation was <strong>the</strong> opportunity for Julius Sch<strong>of</strong>ield to announce his retirement and formally hand<br />
over to Barbara Kennington, who introduced Louise Trotter, Creative Director <strong>of</strong> Joseph, as Prize Presenter.<br />
The audience included Eric Musgrave, chairman <strong>of</strong> UKFT, Moritz Mantero, Luigi Turconi, Ratti, Giuseppina<br />
Shah, View Publications, Paolo Noseda <strong>of</strong> Confindustria Como and Gin Pau from <strong>the</strong> British Embassy. Gilles<br />
Lasbordes, director <strong>of</strong> Indigo said a few words in welcome.<br />
SIX PRIZE WINNERS PRESENT TO FAR EAST MARKETS<br />
Messe Frankfurt (HK) continued with <strong>the</strong>ir in-kind sponsorship <strong>of</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong>, maintained at <strong>the</strong> same level as last<br />
year ie donation <strong>of</strong> exhibition space plus some financial support. As costs have increased significantly, <strong>the</strong> hotel<br />
costs were paid by <strong>the</strong> prize winners <strong>the</strong>mselves and <strong>Texprint</strong>.<br />
The organizers, Messe Frankfurt (HK), continue to express enthusiasm for <strong>Texprint</strong> and what it brings to <strong>the</strong><br />
show, and created special signage and larger exhibition stands. The number <strong>of</strong> exhibitors increased slightly from<br />
last year – a total <strong>of</strong> 248 from 12 countries, with <strong>the</strong> emphasis continuing on eco, sustainable, functional and<br />
fashionable fabrics and accessories. The show coincided with a one-<strong>of</strong>f event – <strong>the</strong> 26th IAF World Convention,<br />
as well as featuring 5 different catwalk shows. There was a total <strong>of</strong> 6,860 buyers from 46 countries and regions.<br />
Generally <strong>the</strong> contacts were from Asian based companies, with fewer Western buying departments in evidence.<br />
It was also quieter on <strong>the</strong> press side, with <strong>the</strong> main coverage given to <strong>the</strong> IAF Conference.<br />
Total significant contacts numbered 60 from 11 countries – although far fewer than last year (219 from 15<br />
countries), <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> <strong>design</strong>ers were selective and did not put down those who simply gave <strong>the</strong>ir card without<br />
interacting. They were mainly local/Asian companies; 1 <strong>design</strong>er sold a <strong>design</strong> and ano<strong>the</strong>r had possible<br />
commissions from 5 companies.<br />
We were very pleased to welcome Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Lee, assistant to John Woodruffe <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> UKT&I who visited from<br />
<strong>the</strong> British Consulate/General – Joann Kok has moved on. As before,, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> prize winners found <strong>the</strong><br />
experience very positive and encouraging, with valuable lessons learnt from interacting with manufacturers<br />
directly.<br />
2010<br />
13
PIECES FROM THE COLLECTION OF ALICE BY TEMPERLEY THE NEW RANGE BY ALICE<br />
TEMPERLEY MBE (TEXPRINT ʻ99) ON DISPLAY AT ENTRANCE OF FIRST VIEW, CHELSEA<br />
COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN IN JULY<br />
KANAKO KAJIHARA (TEXPRINT ʻ05) AND HER ASSISTANT SHOW HER NEW<br />
DEVELOPMENTS AT THE TOKYO OFFICES OF SOTOH/DAIDOH<br />
SALLY TAYLOR, HEAD OF FABRICS, BURBERRY WITH JACQUELINE EDIE (TEXPRINT<br />
ʻ99) ALSO AT BURBERRY CONSIDER WORK FOR THE WEAVE PRIZE AT FIRST VIEW,<br />
JULY 2010<br />
A SELECTION OF CURRENT WORK BY TEXPRINT ALUMNI DISPLAYED AT FIRST VIEW<br />
ALUMNI SUCCESSES<br />
News <strong>of</strong> alumni from <strong>the</strong> past two years shows <strong>the</strong> effectiveness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> programme:<br />
Andrew Stevenson (’10) and Isabel Fishlock (‘10) are both working at PAUL SMITH with o<strong>the</strong>r alumni<br />
including Elizabeth Jones (’08); Andrew Boyd (’10) and Hannah Winton (’10) are both <strong>design</strong>ing at RATTI in<br />
six month placements; Gemma Waggett (’10) is working with DAMIEN HIRST and freelancing for DIESEL and<br />
SELVEDGE magazine; Samantha Leutton (’10) spent 6 months at STOLL in China, and is freelancing with<br />
ANTHROPOLOGIE, LION RAMPANT and PLUM TEXTILES; Kezia Lewis (’10) is freelancing for MINT and<br />
PATTERN PEOPLE; Tiphaine Piggott (’10), having worked with BURBERRY, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN and<br />
SAMANTHA SHAW, has started a MA at <strong>the</strong> RCA; Florence Salazar (’10) is with CHARLES ANASTASE; Rebecca<br />
Phoenix Lu (’10) has worked with WHISTON & WRIGHT and CRABTREE & EVELYN and is interviewing for<br />
position at H&M in Sweden; Ruth Davis (’09) is at ELEY KISHIMOTO; Martha Steadman (’09) and Hollie<br />
Maloney (’09) are both at JAEGER; Laura McPherson (’09) worked at MISSONI and <strong>the</strong>n EAST CENTRAL<br />
STUDIOS; Fiona Binns (’09) is at JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN; Rene de Lange (’09) is <strong>design</strong>ing at LARCH<br />
ROSE LTD, whose customers include CALVIN KLEIN, VANESSA BRUNO, M&S, URBAN OUTFITTERS,<br />
TOPSHOP; Tamara Vodden (’09) is <strong>design</strong>ing for KEELER GORDON; Natasha Mohide (’09) is at VANNERS<br />
SILK WEAVERS; Nancy Taplin (’09) had a sold-out exhibition at COURCOUX & COURCOUX GALLERY<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r companies with whom <strong>Texprint</strong> alumni are currently working with or have recently worked with include:<br />
CELINE, MATTHEW WILLIAMSON, VICTORIA’S SECRET, HUGO BOSS, THE PENTLAND GROUP PLC,<br />
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, CALVIN KLEIN, GUY LAROCHE, HERMES, COSMIQUE GLOBAL, THE<br />
EMBROIDERERS’ GUILD, NATIONAL TRUST, MIROGLIO, HAND & LOCK, ALISON WILLOUGHBY,<br />
AVSHALOM GUR, NINA CAMPBELL, MATALAN, FULTON UMBRELLAS, AMTICO, PARRY MURRAY,<br />
LIBERTY ART FABRICS, CATHERINE WALKER, THE COLOURFIELD, BCBG MAX AZRIA, SALVATORE<br />
FERRAGAMO, CUSTO, MISSONI, JATO, LEGGIUNO SpA, SOTOH/DAIDOH, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN,<br />
VANNERS, STELLA MACARTNEY, WGSN, WHISTLES, BAMFORD, HABITAT, MIROGLIO, CERRUTI1881,<br />
CELINE, DASHING TWEEDS, INTERFASHION<br />
2010<br />
Those <strong>Texprint</strong> alumni who have set up <strong>the</strong>ir own companies include:<br />
Alice Temperley (’99), Louise Goldin (’07) and Angela Cassidy (’06) have <strong>the</strong>ir own catwalk collections; Beth<br />
Parry (’10), Victoria Purver (‘06) have <strong>the</strong>ir own studios; Emily Sedgwick (’98), Lisa Jukes (’98) and James<br />
Stone (’98) established <strong>the</strong>ir own group studio, CODE; Laura Watson (’90) has her own label and shop,<br />
SALTWATER; Margo Selby (‘01) has her own shop/gallery; Michael Angove (’01), Genevieve Bennett (‘00),<br />
Caitlin Hishelwood (’06) and Rosie de Boorman (’06) have <strong>the</strong>ir own interior collections.<br />
Additional <strong>new</strong>s on alumni can be found in <strong>the</strong> final pages <strong>of</strong> this report.<br />
14
SUZANNE SMITH WITH BUYERS FROM CUSTO BARCELONA, SPAIN AT INDIGO<br />
BARBARA KENNINGTON, NEW CHAIRMAN WITH PAUL ALGER AND ERIC MUSGRAVE,<br />
UKFT AT THE PRIZE PRESENTATION AT INDIGO<br />
MARIO RATTI AND LUIGI TURCONI, RATTI (SUPPORTERS) CONSIDER HANNAH<br />
WINTONʼS WORK AT INDIGO<br />
SANDEEP MANKATALA, COSMIQUE GLOBAL, TALKS TO JOSIE WARDEN AT INDIGO<br />
TEXPRINT WEBSITE<br />
This has already been touched on in <strong>the</strong> Chairman’s Report on page 5. The <strong>new</strong> website www.texprint.org.uk<br />
has already had an enthusiastic reception from industry pr<strong>of</strong>essionals, but <strong>the</strong>re is still much to do, and <strong>the</strong><br />
(part-time) role <strong>of</strong> On-Line Community Manager has been created to maintain contacts and update <strong>the</strong> website<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> year. Dominic Lowe <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sanderson Art in Industry Trust has kindly <strong>of</strong>fered £2k towards<br />
paying for <strong>the</strong> role. We have exciting plans to increase awareness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> programme, <strong>the</strong> <strong>talent</strong> and our<br />
sponsors with <strong>the</strong> <strong>new</strong> website at <strong>the</strong> hub. The Alumni section will play a significant part in developing contacts<br />
with alumni, including those working with potential supporters. <strong>Texprint</strong>’s Facebook page is already set up and<br />
running.<br />
For <strong>the</strong> first time all invitations to First View and Indigo were sent out by e-mail by our <strong>new</strong> in-kind supporters,estyle,<br />
which reduced our costs significantly. Each invitation was followed up by 2 reminders, and was a valuable<br />
tool in updating our data base. All Sponsors and supporters were listed on each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 6 mail-outs, each with<br />
alinkto<strong>the</strong>irwebsite.<br />
TEXPRINT IN THE MEDIA<br />
Gill Gledhill <strong>of</strong> GGHQ, a long-term member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> Council and highly experienced in <strong>the</strong> <strong>textile</strong> and<br />
fashion PR world, started press coverage earlier than before by writing press releases in January and February<br />
for <strong>the</strong> Scarf Competition winners at Liberty, as well as giving a seminar to <strong>the</strong> sales staff <strong>the</strong>re. There was<br />
extensive coverage on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> inter-college competitions, <strong>Texprint</strong> and <strong>the</strong> <strong>new</strong> Chairman by YSH, Arts<br />
Thread, Drapers, Knitting Industry, Fashion Monitor, View, Media Box Diary and Textiles.<br />
Nine press releases were issued in total, including one for Interst<strong>of</strong>f Asia Essential.<br />
Examples <strong>of</strong> editorial coverage <strong>of</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> and <strong>new</strong>s <strong>of</strong> alumni are on pages 23-43<br />
2010<br />
15
INTERNATIONAL PROFESSIONALS MEET THE TEXPRINT<br />
STARS AT INDIGO, PARIS<br />
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, RETIRING CHAIRMAN TEXPRINT WITH MORITZ MANTERO AND PAOLO NOSEDA,<br />
CONFINDUSTRIA COMO (MAJOR SPONSORS) AT INDIGO, PARIS<br />
SPONSORSHIP REPORT<br />
2010 has been a particularly difficult year for financial sponsorship due to continuing tough conditions in <strong>the</strong> industry,<br />
but fortunately <strong>Texprint</strong> has magnificent sponsors and certain reserves built up over <strong>the</strong> previous years that are helping<br />
to mitigate <strong>the</strong> impact.<br />
The charities and livery companies have been increasingly <strong>the</strong> bedrock <strong>of</strong> our funding, for which we are extremely<br />
grateful. The CLOTHWORKERS’ FOUNDATION maintained <strong>the</strong>ir donation, and have generously indicated that<br />
<strong>the</strong>y will raise <strong>the</strong>ir pledge for three years, to include <strong>the</strong> Weave prize. The DRAPERS’ COMPANY also continued as<br />
major sponsors, and have already re<strong>new</strong>ed <strong>the</strong>ir support for <strong>the</strong> next three years, with a slight increase. As mentioned<br />
earlier, <strong>the</strong> SANDERSON ART IN INDUSTRY TRUST kindly agreed to increase <strong>the</strong>ir contribution to cover <strong>the</strong><br />
Interior Fashion prize. The LAURA ASHLEY FOUNDATION once again generously raised <strong>the</strong>ir contribution, while<br />
The GARFIELD WESTON FOUNDATION, HABERDASHERS’ COMPANY and THE WORSHIPFUL COMPANY<br />
OF WEAVERS maintained <strong>the</strong>ir support; LORD BARNBY’S FOUNDATION raised <strong>the</strong>ir contribution, and we were<br />
pleased to receive support for <strong>the</strong> first time from <strong>the</strong> WORSHIPFUL COMPANY OF WORLD TRADERS.<br />
Income this year was hit in part by actions <strong>of</strong> two <strong>of</strong> our longest-standing Major Sponsors. Our largest, THE COTTON<br />
INDUSTRY WAR MEMORIAL TRUST, has been one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> founder sponsors <strong>of</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong>; <strong>the</strong>y have reduced <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
contribution this year and next year, and <strong>the</strong>reafter cease altoge<strong>the</strong>r. We are extremely grateful for <strong>the</strong>ir valuable<br />
support over <strong>the</strong> years. Although AWI (AUSTRALIAN WOOL INNOVATION) did not support <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> programme<br />
this year, we are delighted that, as WOOLMARK INTERNATIONAL SUPPORTING THE CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL<br />
<strong>the</strong>y have committed to <strong>Texprint</strong> for <strong>the</strong> next two years with a <strong>new</strong> award, already referred to in <strong>the</strong> Chairman’s Report.<br />
The o<strong>the</strong>r Major Sponsors all continued with <strong>the</strong>ir support, and once again Julius Sch<strong>of</strong>ield was invaluable in<br />
maintaining <strong>the</strong> continuation <strong>of</strong> BURBERRY, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, CONFINDUSTRIA COMO, NEW<br />
LOOK and JAEGER. We are also indebted for <strong>the</strong>ir continuing support to INDIGO and MARKS & SPENCER.<br />
We were delighted that LYLE & SCOTT, PANTONE EUROPE and LIBERTY ART FABRICS continued <strong>the</strong>ir prize<br />
sponsorship, and that PENTLAND GROUP became <strong>new</strong> prize donors. All our 2009 supporters continued for 2010,<br />
which was very encouraging and for which we are extremely grateful. RA SMART TEXTILE PRINTERS continued<br />
with <strong>the</strong>ir financial and in-kind support.<br />
The support <strong>of</strong> publishers VIEW PUBLICATIONS and COLLEZIONI TRENDS continued with editorial features as<br />
well as kindly donating advertising space. GALLANT MACMILLAN, MESSE FRANKFURT (HK), MODE<br />
INFORMATION, TORAY TEXTILES EUROPE and WGSN continued <strong>the</strong>ir support in-kind.<br />
2010<br />
TEXPRINT 2011<br />
As mentioned above, a recent development is that two <strong>of</strong> our long-term Major Sponsors have pledged <strong>the</strong>ir support<br />
for <strong>the</strong> next three years - THE CLOTHWORKERS’ FOUNDATION and THE DRAPERS’ COMPANY - and from<br />
2011 <strong>the</strong>y will be acknowledged as Foundation Sponsors. We very much hope that our much-valued o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
supporters will join <strong>the</strong>m in taking this longer-term view. Raising sponsorship for 2011 will undoubtedly continue<br />
to be extraordinarily tough in <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world economic situation and rising costs, which have been cut<br />
wherever possible. We will maintain our budget at <strong>the</strong> same level as <strong>the</strong> last two years, and particular focus will be<br />
on trying to achieve commitment for at least two, if not three, years, in order to create a more stable, forward-looking<br />
organization. As always, <strong>Texprint</strong> is deeply indebted to <strong>the</strong> invaluable benevolence <strong>of</strong> its sponsors and supporters to<br />
continue its work.<br />
MANAGEMENT TEAM<br />
Joanna Bowring, Helga Goldman, Peter Ring-Lefevre<br />
16
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, RETIRING CHAIRMAN, GIVES EMMA BRADBURY HER<br />
TEXPRINT CERTIFICATE AT INDIGO<br />
BARBARA KENNINGTON, CHAIRMAN, WITH GIUSEPPINA SHAH, VIEW PUBLICATIONS<br />
(PUBLISHING SPONSOR)<br />
MARIE ODILE VERRIER, PREMIERE VISION, JOANNA NEICHO, INDESIGN AND ANNE<br />
TYRRELL MBE AT INDIGO<br />
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE RETIRING CHAIRMAN WITH LUIGI TURCONI, RATTI<br />
(SUPPORTERS)<br />
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, LOUISE TROTTER AND PETER RING-LEFEVRE<br />
ELENA MUNOZ, WINNER OF KNIT PRIZE, ABOUT HER WORK<br />
TALK TO<br />
JACQUES BRUNEL PREMIÈRE VISION, MALCOLM CAMPBELL, PHILIPPA WATKINS RCA<br />
AND PETER RING-LEFEVRE AT INDIGO<br />
2010<br />
VIEW OF BUSY AISLES IN THE TEXPRINT VILLAGE IN HALL 5 AT INDIGO<br />
THE SILK SCARF GALLERY NEXT TO THE TEXPRINT VILLAGE AT INDIGO<br />
17
TEXPRINT 2010<br />
INDUSTRY PROFESSIONAL MEMBERS OF<br />
SELECTION PANELS<br />
2010<br />
Michael Angove<br />
Neil Bamford<br />
Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Barber<br />
Joanna Bowring<br />
Sue Caines<br />
Vanessa Calver<br />
Sarah Cheyne<br />
Sarah Dallas<br />
David Edmond<br />
Beryl Gibson<br />
Eileen Gleeson<br />
Philippa George<br />
Ruth Greany<br />
Katie Greenyer<br />
Toni Hicks<br />
Caitlin Hinshelwood<br />
Janet Holbrook<br />
Rebecca Hoyes<br />
Chris Judge<br />
Jaqui Lewis<br />
Jaine McCormack<br />
Chantelle Morton<br />
Helen Palmer<br />
Greg Parsons<br />
Tiphaine Pigott<br />
Eleanor Pritchard<br />
Katharine Pulford<br />
Jessica Quinton<br />
Ernesto Rivera<br />
Emma Sewell<br />
Jeremy Somers<br />
Lisa Stannard<br />
Nicola Stra<strong>the</strong>arn<br />
Anna Wheeler<br />
Clare Whiston<br />
Sarah Wilson<br />
Melissa Wright<br />
Michael Angove Wallpapers<br />
Mint Design<br />
Design Consultant<br />
Designer & <strong>Texprint</strong><br />
Cainesclark Ltd<br />
Design Consultant<br />
Johnson Cheyne<br />
Designer & Tutor - RCA<br />
Edmond Textile Design<br />
Design Consultant<br />
Design Union<br />
The Collection<br />
Design Consultant & WGSN<br />
Design Director - Pentland Group<br />
Designer & Tutor - Brighton<br />
Designer<br />
Holbrook Studio/Peclers Paris<br />
Rebecca Hoyes Studio<br />
Chris Judge Design<br />
Lewis & Lewis Design<br />
Guy Goodfellow<br />
Design Consultant & Tutor<br />
Design Consultant & WGSN<br />
Design Consultant<br />
Designer<br />
Eleanor Pritchard Textile Design<br />
Design Consultant<br />
Quinton & Chadwick Knit Studio<br />
Designer/Weaver<br />
Wallace Sewell<br />
Circle Line<br />
Designer<br />
Designer<br />
Design Consultant<br />
Whiston & Wright<br />
Design Consultant<br />
Whiston & Wright<br />
<strong>Texprint</strong> is extremely grateful to <strong>the</strong> Selection Panel members for <strong>the</strong>ir generosity in giving<br />
both <strong>the</strong>ir time and <strong>the</strong>ir pr<strong>of</strong>essional expertise in <strong>the</strong> interviews.<br />
18
GRADUATE DESIGNER SELECTION TEXPRINT 2010<br />
BY MAJOR DISCIPLINE WITH COLLEGES<br />
PRINT<br />
ANDREW BOYD<br />
SARAH CLAYDON<br />
JENNA GIBSON<br />
KOKO KASUGAI<br />
KEZIA LEWIS<br />
REBECCA LU<br />
SUZANNE SMITH<br />
LAURA WILSON<br />
CLEVELAND COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN<br />
CLEVELAND COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN<br />
ROYAL COLLEGE OF ART (MA)<br />
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE NEW UNIVERSITY (BA)<br />
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN<br />
GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART<br />
UNIVERSITY OF BRIGHTON<br />
HERIOT-WATT UNIVERSITY<br />
WINCHESTER SCHOOL OF ART<br />
MIXED MEDIA<br />
ISABEL FISHLOCK<br />
SUSIE FOSTER<br />
BETH PARRY<br />
MAGDALENA STASIEWSKA<br />
SOPHIE TANNER<br />
JOSIE WARDEN<br />
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN<br />
ROYAL COLLEGE OF ART (MA)<br />
CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN (BA)<br />
CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN<br />
EDINBURGH COLLEGE OF ART<br />
LOUGHBOROUGH UNIVERSITY, SCHOOL OF ART &DESIGN<br />
UNIVERSITY COLLEGE FALMOUTH<br />
KNIT<br />
EMMA BRADBURY<br />
RACHAEL HEWSON<br />
FUMIKO KOZUKA<br />
ELENA MUNOZ<br />
FLORENCE SALAZAR<br />
ROYAL COLLEGE OF ART (MA)<br />
WINCHESTER SCHOOL OF ART (BA)<br />
NORTHUMBRIA UNIVERSITY<br />
CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN<br />
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN<br />
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN<br />
WEAVE<br />
HOLLY BRADLEY-GILL<br />
EMMA LOUGHTON<br />
SARAH PODLESNY<br />
ANDREW STEVENSON<br />
HANNAH WINTON<br />
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN<br />
UNIVERSITY OF BRIGHTON<br />
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN<br />
ROYAL COLLEGE OF ART (MA)<br />
DUNCAN OF JORDANSTONE COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN,<br />
UNIVERSITY OF DUNDEE (BA)<br />
UNIVERSITY FOR THE CREATIVE ARTS, FARNHAM<br />
"<strong>Texprint</strong> should be <strong>the</strong> highest priority on every student's agenda - to make it to <strong>the</strong> last 24 can and will open so many<br />
doors and give you <strong>the</strong> face to face contacts that a letter cannot. You cannot believe what <strong>Texprint</strong> has made possible for<br />
me." Andrew Boyd<br />
"Thank you so much for all your help in Paris. I really learnt far more than I could ever have imagined. The whole<br />
<strong>Texprint</strong> team have been so thoughtful, and it really has been a fantastic experience." Holly Bradley-Gill<br />
"It has been absolutely invaluable and such an honour to have been chosen. I am so impressed by how smoothly <strong>the</strong> whole<br />
operation ran, it was impeccable! Not to mention <strong>the</strong> bridge it has given me into <strong>the</strong> real world. I can't ever thank you<br />
enough." Isabel Fishlock<br />
"I definitely feel more confident after being part <strong>of</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> and although I have done work experience with leading<br />
Scottish <strong>design</strong>ers, its nothing quite <strong>of</strong> this calibre! I like to think that <strong>Texprint</strong> has definitely played a big part in giving<br />
me better skills when presenting and talking about my work, so thank you to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Texprint</strong> team!" Kezia Lewis<br />
2010<br />
Each <strong>design</strong>er selected to show at <strong>Texprint</strong> receives a ‘Certificate <strong>of</strong> Merit’<br />
19
DONORS, JUDGES &WINNERS<br />
PRIZE JUDGING DAY WEDNESDAY 14TH JULY 2010<br />
CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART &DESIGN, LONDON<br />
BREAKING NEW GROUND PRIZE<br />
given by PENTLAND GROUP PLC<br />
£750 awarded for combining technical skill and<br />
creative originality by<br />
Peter Copping,NINARICCI<br />
SARAH PODLESNY - graduate <strong>of</strong> Central St Martins College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design<br />
COLOUR PRIZE<br />
given by PANTONE EUROPE<br />
£750 awarded for <strong>the</strong> best use <strong>of</strong> colour by<br />
Wakako Kishimoto ELEY KISHIMOTO<br />
ANDREW BOYD - graduate <strong>of</strong> Cleveland College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design<br />
KNIT PRIZE<br />
given by LYLE & SCOTT<br />
£750 awarded for <strong>the</strong> best knitted fabric or collection by<br />
Derrick Campbell, CEO, LYLE & SCOTT<br />
ELANA MUNOZ – graduate <strong>of</strong> Central St Martins College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design<br />
INTERIOR FASHION PRIZE<br />
given by SANDERSON ART IN INDUSTRY<br />
£750 awarded for <strong>the</strong> best collection for interiors by<br />
Donna Wilson for Heal’s<br />
ANDREW STEVENSON – graduate <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Royal College <strong>of</strong> Art<br />
PRINT PRIZE<br />
given by LIBERTY ART FABRICS<br />
£750 awarded for <strong>the</strong> best print<br />
collection by Elena Alfani, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO<br />
REBECCA PHOENIX LU – graduate <strong>of</strong> University <strong>of</strong> Brighton<br />
WEAVE PRIZE<br />
given by CLOTHWORKERS’ FOUNDATION<br />
£750 awarded for <strong>the</strong> best woven collection by<br />
Sally Taylor, BURBERRY<br />
HOLLY BRADLEY-GILL - graduate <strong>of</strong> Central St Martin’s College <strong>of</strong> Art & Design<br />
2010<br />
Louise Trotter, Creative Director Joseph presented <strong>the</strong> prizes at Indigo, Paris on 15th September<br />
Messe Frankfurt(HK) sponsored <strong>the</strong> six prize winners to visit and exhibit in <strong>the</strong> ‘Designers’ Studio’ at<br />
Interst<strong>of</strong>f Asia Essential, Hong Kong.<br />
WGSN donated a year’s access to <strong>the</strong>ir website to <strong>the</strong> six prize winners<br />
R.A.Smart Textile Printers printed two lengths for <strong>the</strong> Print Prize winner to display at Indigo.<br />
Toray Textiles Europe wove two lengths for <strong>the</strong> Weave Prize winner<br />
20
TEXPRINT 2010 SPECIAL PRIZE WINNERS:<br />
JUDGES’ &DESIGNERS’ COMMENTS<br />
Peter Copping, Creative Director, Nina Ricci chose SARAH PODLESNY as<br />
winner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> BREAKING NEW GROUND prize donated by PENTLAND GROUP<br />
PLC,andcommented“Sarah has very impressive techniques and I like <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> research<br />
she has put in; she starts with something relatively simple, that looked so much more fantastic<br />
at <strong>the</strong> end…she really does answer <strong>the</strong> category.” Sarah says <strong>of</strong> her own work: “Depending<br />
on <strong>the</strong> viewpoint, my woven <strong>design</strong>s express iridescent colour change and levels <strong>of</strong> translucency,<br />
some even appearing to emit <strong>the</strong>ir own light.”<br />
Wakako Kishimoto, Eley Kishimoto chose ANDREW BOYD as winner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
COLOUR prize donated by PANTONE EUROPE:“Although he is not a natural colourist,<br />
Andrew does not spare any effort – and is very passionate in making that effort – and discovers<br />
extraordinary things he did not know before.” Andrew on his own work “Passion for hand<br />
printing <strong>textile</strong> <strong>design</strong>s taking simple geometric forms to create intricate patterns.”<br />
Donna Wilson for Heal’s chose ANDREW STEVENSON as winner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
INTERIOR FASHION prize, donated by <strong>the</strong> SANDERSON ART IN INDUSTRY<br />
TRUST and said “I findhisworkreallybeautiful,some<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>colourisreallystartling,Ilike<br />
<strong>the</strong> way he paints onto <strong>the</strong> warp and it becomes something o<strong>the</strong>r than weave - it looks very fresh<br />
and contemporary, and could be ei<strong>the</strong>r fashion or interiors –he is really interesting.” Andrew<br />
describes his own work “My <strong>design</strong>s both woven and printed are inspired by a European<br />
sailing voyage and <strong>the</strong> paintings <strong>of</strong> David Hockney and Henri Matisse.”<br />
Derrick Campbell CEO and Edith Brown, Lyle & Scott chose ELENA MUNOZ<br />
as winner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> KNIT prize, also sponsored by LYLE & SCOTT and said “We felt that<br />
Elena’s ability to explain how her inspiration developed from insects and <strong>the</strong>ir shell structure,<br />
through <strong>the</strong> science and three dimensional architecture, gave three different aspects which she<br />
managed to convert into products with different combinations <strong>of</strong> knits and still <strong>the</strong> 3 dimensional<br />
appeal.” Elena on her own work says “My“Organic Form” knitted <strong>design</strong>s are inspired by<br />
architecture, <strong>the</strong> body and insects, translated by transparencies, layering and intertwining<br />
bulky cables.”<br />
Elena Alfani, Salvatore Ferragamo chose REBECCA PHOENIX LU as winner <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> PRINT prize, sponsored by LIBERTY ART FABRICS and said “I choseRebeccafor<br />
<strong>the</strong> print prize because I found her work had a <strong>new</strong> forward direction with a very interesting<br />
etched look and fine draftmanship- <strong>the</strong> type <strong>of</strong> work which will appeal to many top<br />
international labels.”Rebeccadescribesherownworkas“Ajuxtaposition<strong>of</strong>naturethrough<br />
abstract, linear and feminine eyes. Progressive print <strong>design</strong>s based on <strong>the</strong> natural world through<br />
<strong>the</strong> study <strong>of</strong> fluidity, asymmetry and composure <strong>of</strong> Art Nouveau and paper cut-out <strong>design</strong>.”<br />
Sally Taylor and Jacqueline Ednie, Burberry chose HOLLY BRADLEY-GILL as<br />
winner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> WEAVE prize sponsored by THE CLOTHWORKERS’ FOUNDATION<br />
“We chose Holly for her originality – her development and research was fabulous and very<br />
strong, adaptable and versatile, and her translation from drawing to cloth was very considered.<br />
She could go to Paris and work with <strong>the</strong> top <strong>design</strong>ers – she has a beautiful colour sense and is<br />
very hands-on.” Hollyonherownwork “Iusedavariety<strong>of</strong>yarnsandstructures,tocreate<br />
playful woven <strong>textile</strong> <strong>design</strong>s with an elegant, feminine edge.”<br />
2010<br />
21
SALLY TAYLOR, BURBERRRY (MAJOR SPONSORS) AND<br />
WEAVE PRIZE JUDGE WITH PETER RING-LEFEVRE AT<br />
PRIZE PRESENTATION AT INDIGO<br />
ANDREW BOYD RECEIVES HIS TEXPRINT CERTIFICATE<br />
FROM RETIRING CHAIRMAN JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE<br />
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE TALKS TO LOUISE TROTTER<br />
AND PAOLO NOSEDA, CONFINDUSTRIA COMO (MAJOR<br />
SPONSORS) IN THE TEXPRINT COMPETITION GALLERY<br />
AT INDIGO<br />
CREATIVE BUYING TEAM FROM ERICA INDUSTRIA<br />
TESSILE CONSIDER ANDREW STEVENSONʼS DESIGNS<br />
AT INDIGO<br />
PETA SLACK SMITH FROM AWI (2011 MAJOR<br />
SPONSORS) WITH PETER ACKROYD MBE, CAMPAIGN<br />
FOR WOOL AT INDIGO<br />
GILLES LASBORDES, INDIGO (MAJOR SPONSORS),<br />
LUIGI TURCONI, RATTI (SUPPPORTERS) AND PETER<br />
RING-LEFEVRE AT TEXPRINT PRIZE PRESENTATION,<br />
TEXPRINT PRIZE PRESENTATIONS<br />
HAVE BEEN MADE AT INTERNATIONAL<br />
SHOWS BY:<br />
INDIGO<br />
2010 Louise Trotter, Creative Director, JOSEPH<br />
2009 Harold Tillman, CBE, Chairman, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL,<br />
JAEGER and AQUASCUTUM<br />
2008 Sir Paul Smith<br />
2007 Sir Peter Westmacott, KCMG LVO, H.M.Ambassador to France<br />
2006 Alber Elbaz, Creative Director JEAN LANVIN<br />
2005 Nathan Jenden, Creative Director DIANE von FURSTENBERG<br />
2004 Nino Cerruti, CERRUTTI 1881<br />
2003 Zandra Rhodes, CBE<br />
2002 Ronald Weisbrod, WEISBROD-ZUERRER<br />
2001 Luca Missoni, MISSONI Spa<br />
2000 Nicole Farhi<br />
1999 Brian Godbold, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL<br />
1998 Betty Jackson, MBE<br />
2010<br />
1997 Wilhelm Otten, JOSEF OTTEN GmbH<br />
1996 Roberto Sarti, FALIERO SARTI & FIGLI SpA<br />
1995 Amadeo Quaglino, T.J.S.S<br />
1994 Klaus Kahle, ESCADA AG<br />
1993 Bruce Oldfield, OBE<br />
22<br />
1992 Cavaliere Antonio Ratti, RATTI SPA
BUSY BUYERS INTENT ON FINDING THE NEWEST TALENT AT THE TEXPRINT ʻVILLAGEʼ AT INDIGO SEPTEMBER 2010