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The History of Fermented Foods 17<br />

1.3.3 Do s a<br />

Dosa is a pancake made from the batter of rice and black gram, and is first noted in<br />

the Tamil (India) Sangam literature about the sixth century A.D. 29 The use of pulses<br />

to make the well-known dhokla (steam-cooked fermented spicy cake) of today was<br />

first mentioned in 1066 A.D. (Figure 1.1c). In northern India, dried spicy hollow<br />

balls called warries (Figure 1.1d) have been made for more than 100 yr. They are<br />

prepared from black gram paste fermented for 3 to 10 d. Nan, bhatura, and kulcha<br />

are a type of staple foods made from fermented wheat dough and shaped as flattened<br />

breads in India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Iran (Figures 1.1e to 1g).<br />

1.3.4 So y Fo o d s<br />

1.3.4.1 Soy Sauce<br />

Soybeans are one of the most important protein sources for millions of people in the<br />

Orient; one of the most popular products for centuries has been soy sauce. Soy sauce<br />

is a liquid food condiment prepared from fermented rice or wheat and soybean with<br />

the help of molds, bacteria, and yeasts. Soy sauce is known as ch’au yau or pak yau<br />

in China, shoyu in Japan, ketjap in Malaysia, kecap in Indonesia, kenjang in Korea,<br />

toyo in the Philippines, and see-ieu in Thailand. 30 It is said that soy sauce became<br />

popular in Japan as a result of the introduction of Buddhism from China. The Chinese<br />

have been using soy sauce for over 3000 yr. 31<br />

1.3.4.2 Miso<br />

Miso (see Figure 1.1h) is a fermented soybean paste that is believed to have originated<br />

in China in 600 A.D. or earlier. It is known as chiang in China, miso in Japan,<br />

jang or deoenjang in Korea, tauco in Indonesia, taochieo in Thailand, and tao-si in<br />

the Philippines. Most of these products contain rice or barley fermented by Aspergillus<br />

oryzae, which makes koji. This is mixed with soybeans and fermented for several<br />

months. Miso has been popular in Japan for over 1000 yr and is used as a base for<br />

soups, a sauce served with meat, or poultry, seafood, and vegetable dishes. (See<br />

Chapter 11 for more details on the production and health properties of miso.)<br />

1.3.4.3 Tempeh<br />

One of the most important products of Indonesia is tempeh, which is made from<br />

soybean fermented with the mold Rhizopus. It is particularly important in Java and<br />

Bali. It is also produced in Malaysian villages, Singapore, Canada, Holland, the West<br />

Indies and the United States. 31 Tempeh, the mold-fermented cake, has been consumed<br />

as a meat analogue for several centuries. Prinsen Geerlings 32 was the first to identify<br />

the tempeh mold. Later, Boorsma 33 analyzed tempeh and soybeans to determine the<br />

changes that were occurring to the substrates during fermentation. (See Chapter 17<br />

for more details on the production and health properties of tempeh.)

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