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The History of Fermented Foods 7<br />

this product appeared in the eighth century as “yoghurut” and was subsequently<br />

changed in the eleventh century to its present spelling. One legend tells that an angel<br />

brought down a pot that contained the first yogurt, while another source claims that<br />

the ancient Turks, who were Buddhists, used to offer yogurt to the angels and stars<br />

who protected them. 13 According to Chomakow 14 and others, yogurt originates from<br />

the Balkans. The inhabitants of Thrace used to make soured milks called prokish<br />

from sheep’s milk, which later became yogurt. In the Bible, it is recorded that when<br />

the Patriarch Abraham entertained three angels, he put before them soured and sweet<br />

milk (Genesis VIII, 8). The ancient Greeks and Romans were also acquainted with<br />

preparations of soured milks. The bibliography of Roman Emperor Elagabalum (204<br />

to 222 A.D.) mentions two recipes for soured milk.<br />

Ancient physicians of the Near and Middle East prescribed yogurt or related<br />

soured milks for curing disorders of the stomach, intestines, and liver and for stimulation<br />

of the appetite. 13 Records also exist of the use of soured milks, particularly<br />

yogurt, for preservation of meat against spoilage during the summer. 15 Earlier writers<br />

of the Middle East mention the use of soured milks as cosmetics for Persian women.<br />

However, systematic studies on the therapeutic properties of fermented milks started<br />

after the publication of the book Prolongation of Life by Metchnikoff. 16 In this book,<br />

Metchnikoff attributed the long life of Bulgarian people to the consumption of large<br />

quantities of Bulgarian milk containing Lactobacillus bulgaricus. Later, it was found<br />

that Lb. bulgaricus cannot be implanted in the intestines. In the search for another<br />

milk-souring organism, Moro in 1900 described Lb. acidophilus, which was isolated<br />

from the faeces of infants and is a normal inhabitant of human intestines. This<br />

organism could be implanted in the intestinal tract and hence was selected as a more<br />

suitable candidate for making fermented milk with a higher therapeutic value.<br />

One of the first industrial productions of yogurt in Europe was undertaken by<br />

Danone in 1922 in Madrid. 13 After World War II, and particularly since 1950, the<br />

technology of yogurt and understanding its properties have advanced rapidly. The<br />

yogurt made in the United States for many years was a soft-curd product quite different<br />

from the custard-like yogurt prepared in the Middle East. 4 The organisms<br />

involved in this first commercial yogurt were Lb. bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus.<br />

Fermentation was carried out at a lower temperature than those prevalent<br />

in the Middle East. This product resembled the soft-curd product commonly used<br />

in northern areas of Europe. The method of preparation varied considerably, but the<br />

basic process, using high acid-producing lactic acid bacteria, was the same.<br />

New criteria have been introduced for culture selection in yogurt production. Supplementing<br />

yogurt flora with Lb. acidophilus and Bifidobacterium bifidus for the purpose<br />

of increasing the product’s health-promoting value resulted in new cultured milks<br />

variously called ACO-yogurt, acidophilus-bifidus yogurt, Bioghurt, and Biogarde.<br />

(See Chapters 5 and 7 for more details on the production and health properties<br />

of yogurt.)<br />

1.2.5 Cheese<br />

According to an ancient legend, cheese was accidentally made by an Arabian merchant<br />

when he put his supply of milk into a pouch made of a sheep’s stomach when

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