Zoom in Islands and Highlands

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Zoom in
Your guide through days
and nights of high spirits
Islands and
Highlands
What to see and do in
and around Split
N°4 - complimentary copy
www.inyourpocket.com
SPLIT
Summer 2011
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Contents
Arriving in Split 6
Land ahoy!
The Basics 7
Whither toilets?
Culture & Events 8
Festival fun and music mania
Where to stay 13
Your home away from home
Restaurants 18
Feast your senses
Cafés 23
Get into full chill mode
Just south of town, your jurney here takes you over a
beautiful curving and rolling coast-line, and is worth the trip
if for this alone.
coNteNts
David Guetta is coming to Split’s Žnjan beach and for one
night it will be transformed into the biggest dance stage
in Europe.
Nightlife 24
Step out in Split style
Sightseeing 25
Galleries, churches, Roman remains...
Mail & Phones 32
Go on… open your heart
Getting around 33
Scoot around the city in style
Leisure 39
Anyone for tennis?
Shopping 40
Perfect gifts and souvenirs
Directory 42
Grown up important stuff
Split Dalmatia County 43
Day trips galore
Birdwatching in Croatia 56
This issue’s special feature
Maps & Index
Index 58
Street index 59
City centre map 61
City map 62
Country map 66
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
3

4 foReWoRd
For decades Split was an odd paradox, a city steeped in
history and culture that didn’t seem to care whether it got a
slice of the tourism pie or not. It was traditionally a transit
point through which tourists passed on their way to resorts on
the islands of Brač and Hvar. Even Split’s own citizens would
drift off to nearby beaches in the summer season, leaving the
city in a state of semi-deserted balmy stupour. And although
day-trippers were frequently bussed into town to drool over
the city’s architectural riches, few locals ever considered that
Split really qualified as a destination in itself.
The last few years have seen a huge change in Split’s
fortunes. Modern travellers have been turned on by the sheer
urban energy of one of the Mediterranean’s great port cities,
and have opted to stick around for a few days rather than
hurrying to catch the first boat out. And the locals – who
have always considered their town to be one of the most
inexplicably unique places on earth, but habitually assume
that outsiders are too stupid to realize it – have awoken to
the realization that the new breed of foreigner actually thinks
Split is just as cool as they do. And to be honest, Split doesn’t
have to try too hard to impress. For dedicated urban nomads
it’s a dream city of shore-side cafes, back-alley bars, and a
vivacious, dressed-to-thrill cast of locals for whom the art
of having a good night out is a lifelong calling.
Cover story
This is a musical filled with
songs and playfulness
depicting the Split of old,
a true dedication to the
‘small people’ of the city
of Split. The operetta,
‘Split Aquarel’, which
was composed by Ivo
Tijardović, has from its
very premiere in 1928
until today, remained one
of the most recognizable
trademarks of the city.
The newest production
premiered in November
2008 and instantly became a hit. Since its premiere
it has been performed 25 times with every respective
performance being a sell-out.
Split In Your Pocket
Draškovićeva 66
Zagreb, Croatia
tel. +(385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70
fax +(385-1) 492 39 24
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1846-856X
© Plava Ponistra d.o.o.
Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja
Cover A photo taken from the
operetta, ‘Split Aquarel’, by Ivo
Tijardović, Croatian National Theatre
in Split
Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač
Contributors Frank Jelinčić, Renata
Kontrec, Chad Phillips, Tocher Mitchell,
Jonathan Bousfield, Nataly Anderson
Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka
Valić
Layout & Design Maja Vidović,
Gordan Karabogdan, Ivana Novak
Photos Adriatic photo service, Split In
Your Pocket team, TZ Split
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Višnja Arambašić
Sales & Circulation Manager
Kristijan Vukičević
Krešimir Grgić
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
Account manager: Mirna Cindrić
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Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

6 aRRiViNg iN split
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre J-2,
Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06,
www.visitsplit.com. QOpen 08:00 -
20:30, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.
Split Tourist Board I-2, Obala
hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 34
86 00, touristinfo@visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.
com. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board D-3,
Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel. (+385-21) 49 00
32/(+385-21) 49 00 33, info@dalmatia.hr, www.
dalmatia.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
By boat
Split‘s ferry port isn‘t a bad place to make the transition
from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation
and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see
policemen strolling around, don‘t be disturbed: those are
just the customs officers that work at the office located in
the port. The toilet near the back of the port will cost you
3kn and operates around the clock. There‘s a supermarket
that‘s open from 06:30 - 20:30 daily and a few cafés and bars
that are open according to season and demand. Changing
currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular
intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an
exchange office during their working hours. Calling home:
There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards
can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly
outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the
street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several
points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the
stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of
the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the
taxi stand; continue farther and you‘ll reach the old town in
about five minutes.
By bus
Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,
Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/
(+385-21) 32 91 80, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.
Split‘s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need
to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 -
24:00) 3kn can be found inside the station, along with the
domestic and international ticket windows and an information
desk. The domestic ticket window and information desk
both operate twenty-four hours. The international ticket
office operates 24h. The red and blue posters on the window
of the international ticket office list the international arrivals
and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open
06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of
the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 6,50kn per
hour, per piece of luggage. Getting to town: As it‘s on the
same side of the street, the directions for getting around are
the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead
you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to
the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet
and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you
away directly in front of the bus station.
Fun for the whole family
split.inyourpocket.com
By car
From Zagreb
So you have your own wheels and you‘d like to know the
easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The
fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to
use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on
international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route
on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long
and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 157
kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you‘re getting
close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that‘s that!
From Slovenia
Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do
is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep
an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.
From Italy
Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions,
nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to
Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route
number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and
enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take
you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route 6)
to Bosiljevo, where you‘ll see signs for the A-1, which you follow
right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.
By plane
Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)
Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-
21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr,
www.split-airport.hr. Split‘s airport is 30km out
of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it
is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be
directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is
open from 05:15 - 23:00. Follow the steps leading down from
the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station.
Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall.
If you feel like a drink or a bite before your flight, Restaurant
and Café Ikar operates from 05:00 - 22:00 and has an
excellent view of the sea and palm trees swaying in the breeze.
Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) and
the post office (June -September 19 Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat
07:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun) both operate exchange offices and
can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two
ATMs in the same hall.
Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the Slobodna
dalmacija kiosk (open according to flight times). There are
public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to
the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and
second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men‘s
and women‘s toilets.
Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number
of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Otherwise,
your choices are taxi, public bus or Croatia Airlines airport bus.
Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn‘t
cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in
front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and
thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 15kn
one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Croatia
Airlines buses run according to the arrival times of flights and
drop you just next to the old town for 30kn.
By train
Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel.
(+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hznet.
hr. The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated
storage lockers that can be accessed during the
station‘s working hours, from 05:45 - 22:00 daily. The lockers
have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it‘s on the
same side of the street, the directions for getting around are
the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead
you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to
the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet
and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you
away directly in front of the train station.
Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats,
sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will
be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts
in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs
offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or cultural
works must receive export approval before purchase. Call
the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. (+385-1)
459 13 33, www.mfin.hr.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Health & Safety
The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye
should be kept on one‘s belongings at all times, nevertheless.
Policija (The Police tel.
no.192) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in
mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity
documents, so keep some identification on you at all
times.
Money
There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a
day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
on you. If you‘re planning a trip to one of the islands in the
area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount
of cash you think you‘ll need for the trip, as finding places
that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
Public Toilets
There are several spots that are labeled as having a public
toilet around the city, but not all of them are open. The safest
option is to use the facilities of a bar or café while having
a drink on the premises. The best public one, complete
with staff on hand to keep it clean and tidy is on Kralja
Tomislava (I-2). It should be said that some of our female
staff members felt a slight hint of sexual discrimination, as
a cabin in the public WC runs 4kn, while those of us able to
stand and do their business will only have to pay 2kn. So
much for gender equality.
Basic data
Population:
Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460
Split County: (April 2001): 463.676
Split (April 2001): 188.694
Territory: Croatia‘s land territory takes up 56,542km2.
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia; Montenegro,
Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with
Italy.
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist
attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are
some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just
named some of its most pure!
Islands: An amazing 1,246 islands lie off the Dalmatian
coast, 47 of them inhabited.
Climate: Mediterranean
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European
Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Split it is 12:00
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.
Climate
Temperature, °C
30
National holidays
Basics
Rainfall, mm
100
January 1 New Year’s Day
January 6 Epiphany
April 8 2012 Easter
April 9 2012 Easter Monday
May 1 International Workers' Day
June 7 2012 Corpus Christi
June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland
Thanksgiving Day
August 15 Feast of the Assumption
October 8 Independence Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25 Christmas
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com split.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011
20
10
0
-10
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D
Roads
Croatian lawmakers can‘t seem to make up their minds about
the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed
law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%.
But recent developments have seen this law changed yet
again. The changes mean that if you‘re under 24 years of
age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however,
over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective
June 1, 2008. Once again, we‘ll leave it to others to debate
the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous
terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And
the police are enforcing it.
Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol
does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway
and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the
motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless
otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph
on highways.
On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped
for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving
licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate,
so make sure to always keep them with you.
Tipping
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about
tipping, but seeing how you‘re a visitor to the country and
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to
tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff‘s efforts seems like a
classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn‘t it?
Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
75
50
25
0
7

8 cultuRe & eVeNts
Exhibitions
11.06 Saturday - 11.07 Monday
A monographic exhibition Ante Kaštelančić
J-2, Split Art Gallery, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel.
(+385-21) 35 01 12, www.galum.hr. This exhibit
celebrates 100 years since the birth of Ante Kaštelančić, a
stalwart artist during the Croatian Modern and Contemporary
Art period. See 132 of his works from different art phases
as created between 1934 and 1989. In keeping touch with
his coastal seaside town of Podstrana near Split, a great
number of his specific interpretations pertaining to sails will
be presented.
Split Film Festival
10.09 Saturday - 17.09 Saturday
Split Film Festival - International Festival
of New Film
info@splitfilmfestival.com, www.splitfilmfestival.
com. The flare that film has to offer comes alight in
the 16th edition of this festival that promotes moving
images in (film, video and new media) across seven vast
categories. Recent world and Croatian short/feature
films are a highlight as well as some local premieres.
The programme also consists of new media works,
retrospectives, lectures and workshops. A Special
Festival Award is presented annually to a known director
for his/her outstanding contribution to the art of film.
As a bonus this year, Bela Tarr, the famous Hungarian
filmmaker will conduct a two week workshop for a limited
number of students.
The opening of the festival will be at the Central Cinema
whilst screenings will take place at the Karaman Cinema
and Zlatna vrata Kinoteka. Movies are scheduled daily
from 17:00 to 23:00 at both cinemas. Many films will be
screened for free; otherwise it is 15kn per ticket.
Cinemas
Central I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata bb, tel. (+385-21) 34
38 13, www.ekran.hr.
Cineplexx City Center One, Vukovarska 207, tel.
(+385-21) 65 11 11, www.cineplexx.hr.
CineStar D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel.
(+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr.
Karaman I-2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58
33, www.ekran.hr.
Kinoteka Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel.
(+385-21) 36 13 35, www.pouciliste-split.hr.
14.06 - 05.07 Daša Milatić Zimmer frei
25.07 Monday - 01.09 Thursday
Jagoda Jagoda Buić Buić
J-2, Split Art Gallery, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel.
(+385-21) 35 01 12, www.galum.hr. Weaving is what
this artist does best! One of Croatia‘s unique mid to late
20th century artists who has woven her way across world
museums and back with amazing works in tapestry. The Art
Gallery proudly presents Buić‘s aforementioned works in
addition to her theatre work which includes skteches, masks,
costumes and her recent paper and colllage work.
Special events
www.inyourpocket.com
15.06 Wednesday - 01.07 Friday
A A festival festival of of street street entertainers
entertainers
Clowns, jugglers, acrobats, musicians……and many more
are set to dazzle at the 5th international festival of street
entertainers in Split! Two weeks of fun and excitement
including free concerts can be seen at the Peristil, and other
city locations including the Voćni trg, Narodni trg - Pjaca,
Riva etc.
07.07 Thursday - 09.07 Saturday
The The Split Split festival festival
I-2, Prokurative (Trg Republike), www.splitskifestival.hr.
Many say that this is the San Remo Music Festival of Croatia
as it always attracts the biggest names on the Croatian music
scene. Despite the glory days of the 70‘s and 80‘s long gone,
the event has had some changes over the years but things
are on the improve. For the very best in Croatian music, then
this is a highlight as it continues to attract the biggest names
and draws the most attention.
14.07 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday
The 57th Split Summer Festival
Prokurative (I-2), Peristyle (J-2), Cellars of the
Diocletian‘s Palace (J-2), www.splitsko-ljeto.hr. A
traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and
music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of
Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National
Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre
and dance perfomances from Croatia and abroad.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
15.07 Friday - 17.07 Sunday
xSTatic
Riva, Marjan Hill, Žnjan Beach, O‘Hara, xstaticfest.
com. Steering away from the mainstream this International
Festival of Urban Culture is jam packed with goodies including
masters in graffiti art, skateboard, BMX, break-dance and
street basketball competitions. Musically, hip-hop and rap
artists from this region include Dječaci, Marcelo and Filteri
and the duo Timbe and Ajs Nigrutin.
19.07 Tuesday - 23.07 Saturday
Atlantis Festival
Đardin Park, Gripe Fortress, www.atlantisfestival.hr.
This is a daredevil paradise people! A festival of skateboard
culture will offer visitors a cultural, musical and competitive
insight into the skate scene. The wider audience will also
enjoy a top rate 2-days music programme by Croatian and
foreign bands and DJs.
split.inyourpocket.com
15.07 - 17.07 xSTatic festival (Archives)
cultuRe & eVeNts
21.07 - 23.07 Ethnoambient Salona, photo by Bartosz
Madejski
21.07 Thursday - 23.07 Saturday
Ethnoambient Salona
Gradina, Solin, www.ethnoambient.net. The spirit of
this event is global whilst it firmly remains local. This yearly
gathering truly defines how diverse world music really is. It
presents musicians who get their inspiration in combining
traditional and contemporary music from their countries of
origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with this musical
celebration of cultural differences! This year it means you will
hear the sounds of Reunion with Danyel Waro, Gambia with
JuJu (Justin Adams and Juldeh Camara), Italy with Canzoniere
Grecanico Salentino and Croatia with Veja and Kries.
30.07 Saturday
David Guetta
F-3, Žnjan Beach. The biggest open air spectacle to be held
on the Adriatic coast this year with the biggest commercial
dance hit maker in recent years, ‘David Guetta‘. This maestro
behind turn-tables comes to Split and the larger the arena,
the wilder the spectacle on the dance floor. Guetta graces
the hallowed stage at Split‘s legendary Žnjan Beach in what
is said to be a performance to remember with up to 50,000
visitors able to attend. Let the music take control under the
starry summer nights amidst an amazing light and sound
show. Q Start at 21:00. Tickets 270 - 450kn available at
www.eventim.hr.
04.08 Thursday - 06.08 Saturday
Enter - Summer Music Festival
D-3, Bačvice Beach, www.enter-festival.com. Ibiza eat
your heart out as the new Enter Summer Music Festival will
have patrons bopping to the beats all day and night. Two days,
two stages and thirty international DJ‘s spinning tunes at the
famous Bačvice Beach! Hear the sounds of Axwell and other
DJ‘s doing what they do best!
Culture Centres
Alliance Fraincaise I-2, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-
21) 34 72 90, info@alliance-francaise-split.com,
www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Q Open 08:00
- 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
MKC-Multimedia Culture Centre (Multimedijalni
kulturni centar) D/E-2, Savska bb, tel. (+385-21)
53 74 49/(+385-21) 53 74 71, mkcsplit@mkcsplit.
hr, www.mkcsplit.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Summer 2011
9

10 cultuRe & eVeNts
The Dalmatian Klapa
If the coastal regions of Croatia had a musical trademark
then it would undoubtedly be the stirring sound of
the klapa. Performing a capella songs with delicate
harmonies, the klapa is basically a small choir numbering
anything from three members upwards. Often made up
of informal groups of friends with an instinctual feel for
age-old Adriatic melodies, these choirs are an important
focus of local life and a source of considerable pride for
the communities they come from.
Typical klapa songs focus on traditional Adriatic concerns:
falling in love over a plate of squid, going night fishing
with the lads, or pining for partners who are sailing the
seven seas. Although klapa harmonies tend towards the
smooth and soulful, the style retains a raw emotional
edge: hearing a klapa perform live - whether on stage at
a festival or simply serenading themselves at the table
of a konoba - can send shivers down the spine.
Best places to experience klapa singing at its best are
the Omiš Klapa Festival (www.fdk.hr), which features
outdoor concerts in the centre of Omiš throughout the
month of July; or at the Dalmatian Song Evenings (Večeri
dalmatinske pisme; www.vdp.hr) in Kaštel Kambelovac
in early July.
12.08 Friday
Discotheque Riva
The Split Riva is literally turned into an outdoor club with
20,000 punters hopping and bopping the night away. Famous
British electronic act ‘Faithless Sound System‘ headline this
year‘s event and is supported by Dutch DJ Fedde Le Grand,
Felix Da Housecat and undoubtedly the most sought after
British DJ at the moment James Zabiel. Spend the night under
the stars ducking and weaving the spectacular laser show on
hand. Q Tickets 100 - 500kn available at www.eventim.
19.08 Friday - 22.08 Monday
Days of Diocletian
The Emperor Diocletian returns and will we see his wrath
once more. In a splendid re-enactment of ancient rule, for
four nights citizens dressed in costume wander along the
city streets as the Emperor himself is led by carriage by an
entourage of guards to the Peristyle. Embrace the past with
gladiator performances, singers and a street music festival.
Dig and delve into the Roman feast by tasting delicacies
made from natural local ingredients (honey, fruit, vegetables,
shellfish, and spices) as prepared according to traditional
old recipes.
www.inyourpocket.com
10.09 - 17.09 Split Film Festival - International Festival of New Film
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
split.inyourpocket.com
02.06 - 30.06 Velimir Trnski: Act
23.08 Tuesday - 25.08 Thursday
Jazz Festival
I-2, Riva. You may escape the heat temporarily but this
annual jazz event ought to turn it up a notch. Come on down
to the Split Riva as a line-up of both national and international
jazz musicians are sure to get you tapping and dancing to this
smooth yet up-beat style of music.
27.08 Saturday - 05.09 Monday
MAGfestival
J-2, City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.udrugamag.
com. For the 2nd year in a row, as organized by the Young
Academic Musicians Association, a chamber music festival
will be held at the beautiful venue of the Gothic Hall of the Split
City Museum. By purchasing a ticket, visitors will not only be
able to participate in the concert but will also be able to visit
the Split City Museum and see the permanent display of the
Emanuel Vidović Gallery.
cultuRe & eVeNts
More fun...
02.06 Thursday - 30.06 Thursday
Velimir Trnski: Act
J-2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-)
091 454 66 66.
07.06 Tuesday - 24.06 Friday
Croatian Press Photo 2010
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.
fotoklubsplit.hr.
14.06 Tuesday - 28.06 Tuesday
An exhibition cycle of young authors: Vojin
Hraste
J-2, Split Art Gallery, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel.
(+385-21) 35 01 11, www.galum.hr.
14.06 Tuesday - 05.07 Tuesday
Daša Milatić: Zimmer Frei
I-2, Alliance Fraincaise, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-21)
34 72 90, info@alliance-francaise-split.com, www.
alliance-francaise-split.com. Acrylics exhibition.
27.06 Monday - 07.07. Thursday
Claire Vallet: Solo exhibition
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.
fotoklubsplit.hr.
06.07 Wednesday - 02.08 Tuesday
Ivan Listeš: A Split Odyssey 2011
I-2, Alliance Fraincaise, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-
21) 34 72 90, info@alliance-francaise-split.com,
www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Oils exhibition.
09.07 Saturday - 16.07 Saturday
Goran Ivanišević - 10 years since winning
Wimbledon (photos of his welcome)
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.
fotoklubsplit.hr. Photo exhibition.
14.07 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday
Safet Zec
J-2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-)
091 454 66 66.
18.07 Monday - 06.08 Saturday
Brkan brothers: Retrospective
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.
fotoklubsplit.hr.
07.08 Sunday - 24.08 Wednesday
Göksin Sipahioglu: The Best off Göksin
Sipahioglu
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.
fotoklubsplit.hr.
03.08 Wednesday - 09.09 Friday
Frane Longo: Kalafati malešne flote
I-2, Alliance Fraincaise, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-
21) 34 72 90, info@alliance-francaise-split.com,
www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Exhibition of
Model Ships.
03.08 Wednesday - 09.09 Friday
Sanja Šurlan: All the colors of the
Mediterranean
I-2, Alliance Fraincaise, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-
21) 34 72 90, info@alliance-francaise-split.com,
www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Oils exhibition.
25.08 Thursday - 05.09 Monday
Željko Ferenčić: Solo exhibition
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.
fotoklubsplit.hr.
06.09 Tuesday - 21.09 Wednesday
Nick Veasey: X-Ray Photos
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.
fotoklubsplit.hr.
22.09 Thursday - 07.10 Friday
Vedran Marketić: Solo exhibition
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.
fotoklubsplit.hr.
Summer 2011
11

12 cultuRe & eVeNts
Art Deco in Croatia
The exhibition “Art Deco
in Croatia in the Interwar
Period” at the Museum
of Arts and Crafts in
Zagreb has been so
well received both at
home and abroad that
it has been extended
until 28 August 2011.
This gives tourists
visiting Zagreb over the
summer the chance to
see one of the most
popular exhibitions
here in recent years,
while students and art
lovers can still arrange
their trip to Zagreb to
visit the exhibition.
By the end of May 2011
more than 45,000
Art Deco, Božidar Kocmut,
Poster
people had visited the exhibition. You can see over 750
art works including paintings, graphics, sculpture and
applied arts featuring fashion and furniture design and
more. It has been written about by France’s Le Figaro
and received extensive radio coverage in the Spanishspeaking
world as evidence that the “roaring twenties”
was alive and kicking in Croatia too.
Art Deco, Set, Italy
You can watch informative presentations on the Art Deco
period on Wednesdays; while on Thursdays there is live
music in the spirit of 20s cabaret, and the museum is
open until 22:00. On Saturdays and Sundays there are
workshops for children. Everyone will enjoy the chance
to buy replicas and other souvenirs, a catalogue, a DVD
or an audio guide.
Don’t miss this last chance to see a dazzling exhibition
and to learn more about Zagreb’s art scene between the
two world wars! Info at (+385-1) 488 21 11, (+385-1)
488 21 25, www.muo.hr
Art Deco, Shoes
Buić Ritmizirani krug 1975
Small galleries
Galić Art Salon I-2, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/
str/galic.htm. Q Open 10:00 -13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat
10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Kula J-2, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 22,
galerija.kula@gmail.com, www.galerija-kula.hr. Q Open
09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free.
MKC Gallery D/E-2, Savska bb, Dom mladih, www.
mkcsplit.hr. Q Open during exhibition 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Photo Club Split (Galerija fotografije fotokluba
Split) I-2, Marmontova 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 75 97, info@
fotoklubsplit.hr, www.fotoklubsplit.hr. Hugely enjoyable
gallery of contemporary photography with an imaginative
programme of themed exhibitions, featuring international
photographers as well as works by members of the local
photography club. Q Open 10:30 - 12:30 and 18:30 - 22:00,
Sat 10:30 -13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
The cellars of Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanovi
podrumi) I/J-3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/podrumi.htm.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 35kn.
Kaštelančić Poslije kiše 1963
www.inyourpocket.com
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Cream of the crop
Atrium J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20
00 00, fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, info@hotel-atrium.hr,
www.hotel-atrium.hr. You‘re not in the middle of the action if
you‘re staying here, but the entire hotel is modern, luxurious,
comfortable and nicely equipped, with pool, jacuzzi and free
Internet. All the things you want and expect from an upscale
hotel are here. Q129 rooms (126 doubles €145 - 190, 3
suites €480). PHA6UFLGKDChhhhh
Upmarket
Art D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02,
fax (+385-21) 30 23 00, prodaja@arthotel.hr, www.
arthotel.hr. If you‘re a business traveler with access to a car,
this cube-shaped, modern hotel is a solid choice. Without a
car, you‘ll be a fifteen minute walk from the old town but either
way, you‘ll have an exceedingly comfortable and stylishlydecorated
room with Internet access included in the price.
Q36 rooms (36 singles €125, 36 doubles €165, 36 triples
€185). PHAULGBKhhhh
Dalmina E-1, Kopilica 5, tel. (+385-21) 35 00 00,
fax (+385-21) 35 00 01, info@hoteldalmina.hr, www.
hoteldalmina.hr. The location is a bit drab and off the
beaten path, but everything you need for a decent stay
is on offer: Internet, free on-site parking, complimentary
breakfast and more. Q52 rooms (30 singles €89, 30
doubles €121, 18 Twin Rooms €121, 4 Family Rooms €164).
PHAULKhhhh
Globo D-2, Lovretska 18, tel. (+385-21) 48 11 11,
fax (+385-21) 48 11 18, info@hotelglobo.com, www.
hotelgobo.com. A four-star hotel that lives up to its
classification, Globo has a relatively decent location,
exceedingly helpful and cheerful staff and a breakfast that
usually doesn‘t fail to satisfy. Q33 rooms (28 singles €139,
28 doubles €178, 5 triples €217). PHA6LNGK
hhhh
Luxe D-3, Kralja Zvonimira 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 44 44,
fax (+385-21) 31 44 45, reservations@hotelluxesplit.
com, www.hotelluxesplit.com. Location, location! An
exclusive new four star hotel close to the Diocletian Palace,
bus and trains station. This is not your everyday hotel, it is a
luxury boutique hotel with attention paid to every detail. It has
modern rooms with a Mediterranean feel, a restaurant, a cigar
bar, and wellness amidst quality all-round service. The exterior
is superbly designed blending the ancient stone that defines
Split with a splurge of modernism. Sleek and stylish! Pets
allowed on payment of 7€ per night and a one-off payment
of 14€ for cleaning the room. Q30 rooms (3 singles €123
- 156, 24 doubles €126 - 230, 2 Deluxe Suites €356 - 412,
1 Prestige Suite €246 - 302). PHA6UFLGXW
hhhh
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant C Swimming pool
D Sauna 6 Animal friendly
Reserve a room at
split.inyourpocket.com
split.inyourpocket.com
WheRe to stay
Summer 2011
13

14 WheRe to stay
Marmont I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60/
(+385-) 091 629 01 99, fax. (+385-21) 30 80 70,
booking@marmonthotel.com, www.marmonthotel.com.
Boutique hotel in an old stone house with imaginative modern
add-ons (the breakfast room is an attractive triangular wedge).
All rooms have parquet floors, creamy colour schemes and
views of neighbouring, green-shuttered buildings. There is a
reasonable amount of desk space, big TVs, and wifi coverage
throughout. The classy modern bathrooms come with either
bath or shower cubicle - although even the latter are pretty
spacious and seem to have been made with splashing around
as a twosome in mind. Q22 rooms (21 singles €157 - 178,
21 doubles €230 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite €1270 - 1805).
PALGhhhh
Park D-3, Hatzeov perivoj 3, tel. (+385-21) 40 64 00,
fax. (+385-21) 40 64 01, sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www.
hotelpark-split.hr. For an upscale establishment with over
fifty rooms, the amenities have made themselves relatively
scarce through the eighty-seven years of this hotel‘s life.
There‘s no pool, the rooms‘ bathrooms are small and service
can be a bit slow. The location close to Bačvice and the quiet
atmosphere make up for these small problems though, and
the outdoor terrace, accented by gently swaying palm trees,
is hard not to love. Pets can stay by arrangement. Q57
rooms (21 singles €124 - 145, 33 doubles €162 - 198, 2
apartments €317 - 359, 1 Presidential Suite €421 - 455).
PHA6ULGBKDhhhh
President D-2, Starčevićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 30 52 22,
fax. (+385-21) 30 52 25, hotel.president@st.t-com.hr,
www.hotelpresident.hr. Just outside the walls of the old
town near the Croatian National Theatre stands the President,
a comfy hotel with stylish decorations in earthy, natural
tones. Double rooms can be a bit small but if you need more
space to stretch out, the deluxe double should do the trick.
Q73 rooms (8 singles €127, 55 doubles €167 - 233, 10
Presidential Suites €253 - 368). PHA6ULGBK
hhhh
Vestibul Palace J-2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32
93 29, fax. (+385-21) 32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace.
com, www.vestibulpalace.com. The rooms here are a
hip homage to ancient and modern, with rooms decorated
in black, brown and beige, contrasted in suites 3 and 6 with
the original Roman walls that stand exposed. The modernity
and hipness are never taken far enough to make the hotel
uncomfortable, however, making this the most sought-after
and exclusive name for Split‘s visiting elite. Q11 rooms
(4 singles €147 - 214, 5 doubles €175 - 293, 1 suites
€324 - 432, 1 Junior Suite €248 - 340). PALGBK
hhhh
Mid-range
Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8,
tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, fax. (+385-21) 34 00 08, info@
hotel-adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. Perhaps the
proprietors rely a bit too much on their Riva-front location to
sell their hotel, as some of the rooms are on the small side
and the service has been known to be a bit curt. All in all, this
one is more than adequate for a few nights and the location
is nearly perfect. Q15 rooms (2 singles 700kn, 11 doubles
950kn, 2 apartments 1200 - 1400kn). PABKhhh
Split.inyourpocket.com
Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with
Split In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf our
conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably
updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the
button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations
site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot
is hot to trot, and off you go!
Consul D-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30,
fax (+385-21) 34 01 33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr,
www.hotel-consul.net. Perhaps a bit pricey considering
the services on offer, but clean, comfortable and friendly
nonetheless. The hotel appears to have been converted from
an old apartment building and is situated in a quiet, residential
area fifteen minutes‘ walk from the center. Q19 rooms (4
singles €90, 9 doubles €130, 2 triples €150, 4 apartments
€205). PHALGBKhhh
Kastel I-2, Mihovilova širina 5, tel./fax (+385-21) 34
39 12, tel. (+385-) 091 120 03 48, info@kastelsplit.
com, www.kastelsplit.com. One of the best value small
guesthouses in the city, this tall building sits at the southwest
corner of the palace and is operated professionally and
efficiently. Q9 rooms (1 singles €80 - 90, 2 doubles €110
- 115, 1 triples €150 - 155, 2 apartments €184 - 200, 1
Studio Apartment €125 - 135, 2 Twin Rooms €110 - 115).
PAGhhh
More F-3, Šetalište pape Ivana Pavla ll 27/l, tel. (+385-
21) 46 21 12, fax. (+385-21) 46 22 01, hotelmore@
hotelmore.hr, www.hotelmore.hr. Hotel More is actually
a bed and breakfast that operates in an interesting cascadestyle
building on the waterfront, a short walk from the old
town. The vibe is calm, comfortable and relaxed. Q9 rooms
(8 singles €85 - 107, 8 doubles €107 - 130, 1 suites €117 -
159). PAULGhhh
Peristil J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. (+385-21) 32
90 70, fax. (+385-21) 32 90 88, booking@hotelperistil.
com, www.hotelperistil.com. Given the excellent
furnishings, superior location and lovely view from the terrace
on the roof, you might be pleasantly surprised to discover
that the cost for a night at the Peristil isn‘t anywhere in the
neighbourhood of an arm and a leg. An added bonus is the
excellent Tifani Restaurant on the ground floor, where chefs
whip up food in open kitchens. Q12 rooms (3 singles €135,
9 doubles €162). PA6BKhhh
Slavija I-2, Andrije Buvine 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 38 40,
fax. (+385-21) 32 38 68, info@hotelslavija.hr, www.
hotelslavija.hr. Slavija‘s stellar location in the palace and
recent renovations are its big draws, but the location can
also be a thorn in the side of those who treasure their beauty
sleep. The loudest and rowdiest bars in the old town are
located nearby. Q25 rooms (2 singles 800kn, 17 doubles
1000 - 1150kn, 4 triples 1100 - 1250kn, 1 4-bedded room
1370kn, 1 5-bedded room 1470kn). PA6LGhhh
As E-1, Kopilica 8a, tel. (+385-21) 36 61 00, fax.
(+385-21) 36 61 11, info@hotelas-split.com, www.
hotelas-split.com. If you‘re willing to travel a bit to get to it,
this is another solid choice on the outskirts of town. A modern
building with the expected additions to make for a pleasant
and comfortable stay. Q33 rooms (33 singles 600kn, 33
doubles 800kn). PALKhhh
Old-School charm
Bellevue I-2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21) 34
56 44, fax (+385-21) 36 23 83, bellevue@inet.hr, www.
hotel-bellevue-split.hr. Today‘s hotel Bellevue is located
on the Riva next to the church of Saint Francis and on the
south-west wing of the Prokurative. It was once a hotel offering
curative baths to guests whilst its café was a meeting place
for rich clientele. In 1906, it received its name „Grand hotel
Bellevue“, and was later renovated in 1934. Famous writers
such as Anatole France, George Bernard Shaw and Agatha
Christie have all lodged here. Today‘s hotel offers comfortable
accommodation and includes the Noštromo restaurant.
Q50 rooms (13 singles 620kn, 34 doubles 850kn, 3 triples
1062kn, 3 apartments 1116kn). ALBKhhh
www.inyourpocket.com
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

16 WheRe to stay
The Inhabitants of Split
To the outside visitor, the citizens of Split – referred to
as Splićani – are homogenous group of people. There
are, however, a few distinct groups that exist in the
social landscape. The first, and oldest, group of people
are the fetivi, the people descended from Split’s old
urban families. They are characterized, stereotypically,
by their unique way of talking, which is considered to be
very fast. Split’s fetivi are complimented by the boduli,
people originally from the islands of the Adriatic who,
again stereotypically, have a reputation for frugality,
quick thinking and keeping to themselves to themselves.
Relatively recently, these two groups were joined by
the vlaji, who migrated to Split from other parts of
Dalmatia and now populate the high-rises that encircle
the city. The vlaji are the rough and tumble survivors,
accustomed to hardships and the rougher side of life.
The distinctions between these groups, however, are
fading fast, especially considering the arrival of the
latest social group to emerge in Split, namely an influx
of immigrants from Hercegovina who came seeking a
new life in Croatia’s second largest city.
Budget
Dujam E-2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25,
fax. (+385-21) 53 72 58, info@hoteldujam.com, www.
hoteldujam.com. Saint Dujam (a.k.a. Doimus, Domnio and
Domnius), patron saint of Split, moonlights as the patron saint
of budget travelers by lending his endorsement to this hotel,
located about a fifteen minute walk from the center. Those
keeping a cautious eye on their cash flow will appreciate
the clean rooms and functional furnishings. Q35 rooms (5
singles €60 - 66, 28 doubles €79 - 93, 2 apartments €99 -
112). PHALGKhh
W
Hostels
Golly&Bossy I-2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel.
(+385-21) 51 09 99, info@gollybossy.com, www.
gollybossy.com. Have you ever been to a designer
hostel? Kid you not, this will knock your socks off, it has
escalators for all 3 floors, free WiFi all-round, a DJ booth,
small theatre, kitchenette, a restaurant, a 15 meter bar
with drinks aplenty, waterfront views and is literally less
than a one minute walk to the waterfront. Price wise, it
matches most other hotels but with features you would
not believe! Q 150 dorm beds, 210 - 638kn per person.
PJHABKW
Silver Central I-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-
21) 49 08 05, silvercentralhostel@gmail.com,
www.silvercentralhostel.com. Bright, high-ceilinged
apartment with a welcoming reception/common room
and a trio of 6- to 8-bed dorms, each with its own
internet terminal. Q 27 dorm beds, 150 - 190kn per
person. PJNW
Silver Gate D-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28
57/(+385-) 098 995 58 78, silvergatehostel@gmail.
com, www.silvergatehostel.com. Run by the same
team as Silver Central and offering pretty much the same
deal, the hostel occupies an atmospheric apartment
building with fine views of the Palace‘s eastern gate. Q
26 dorm beds, 150 - 190kn per person. PNW
Split Hostel Booze and Snooze I-2, Narodni trg
8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@splithostel.com,
www.splithostel.com. Right round the corner from the
medieval main square, this is a cute and cosy hostel run by
a helpful and informative team. Soon to be opening a new
annexe a couple of streets away, complete with basement
bar. Q 16 dorm beds, 12 - 25€ per person. PG
Brač
Agroresort Bračka Perla Put Vele luke 53, Supetar,
tel. (+385-21) 75 55 30/(+385-) 091 335 29 49, fax.
(+385-21) 75 55 47, booking@perlacroatia.com, www.
perlacroatia.com. Apartment! Hotel! When their powers
combine, they form: Aparthotel Bračka Perla! But seriously
folks! This is an absolutely genius choice if you‘re looking
for a touch of class during your stay in Supetar. Eleven fully
furnished rooms decked out with chic Italian furniture look
out onto a lovely pool and deck area and, from the terrace,
the sea and the islands stretch out into the horizon. Plus,
there‘s a sauna and gym on-site. Q11 rooms (5 doubles
€315, 4 suites €400, 2 Junior Suites €365). PAFGDC
hhhh
Bluesun Hotel Borak Put Zlatnog rata bb, Bol, tel.
(+385-21) 30 62 02, fax. (+385-21) 30 62 15, borak@
bluesunhotels.com, www.bluesunhotels.com. The lush
surroundings and whopping 150 square meter pool are
eye-catching. Not to mention the 184 modern guestrooms
all decked with a balcony and essentials. Buffet meals
are served throughout the day. Numerous complimentary
specials are provided to all guests. Positioned 50 meters
from the beach and close to the town centre. Prices are
per person / per day. Q184 rooms (133 doubles €69
- 86, 3 suites €80 - 117, 48 Family Rooms €80 - 117).
PTAFLGKChhhh
Dešković Palace Pučišća, Brač, tel. (+385-21) 77
82 40, fax. (+385-21) 77 82 56, h.palaca-deskovic@
st.t-com.hr, www.palaca-deskovic.com. This restored
Renaissance palace from 1467 is a registered cultural
monument. It has been transformed into a luxurious four-star
hotel. All rooms are fully equipped and guests can indulge in
the hotel restaurant or aperitif bar. The menu is crammed
with local cuisine and home-brewed wine. Q Open May -
November. 13 rooms (6 Standard Rooms €124 - 206, 7 Junior
Suites €150 - 248). PA6LGBKhhhh
Pastura Vrilo 28, Postira, tel. (+385-21) 74 00 00,
fax. (+385-21) 63 21 09, pastura@st.t-com.hr, www.
hotelpastura.hr. It‘s perfectly located on the promenade
with ocean views from the restaurant or aperitif bar. Amenities
include an outdoor fresh water pool, fitness hall, Jacuzzi, sauna
and massage. Modern and set in peaceful surroundings.
Q50 rooms (31 doubles €44 - 82, 6 suites €48 - 86, 4
apartments €52 - 135, 8 Junior Suites €46 - 84, 1 Presidential
Suite €48 - 86). PTAUFLGBKDChhhh
Waterman Svpetrvs Resort Put Vele Luke 4, Supetar,
tel. (+385-21) 63 11 33, fax. (+385-21) 63 13 44,
sales@watermanresorts.com, www.watermanresorts.
com. Comprising residences Kaktus, Villa Diana, Villa Maria,
Meridien, Agava, Salvia and Olea the Svpetrvs Resort has a
lot of things going for it that might make it an irresistible choice
while on Brač. Given the fact that it‘s part of a consortium of
hotels, there are a load of services on-site that other hotels
in the same price range simply cannot offer, like indoor and
outdoor pools, an abundance of tennis courts and sports
areas and a fitness and wellness center. It also happens to
be located right on the beach. Prices are per person. Q440
rooms (78 singles €100 - 131, 78 doubles €64 - 85, 277
triples €64 - 85, 63 suites €92 - 116, 22 Junior Suites €73 -
94). PTHAUFLGBKDChhhh
Looking for more?
split.inyourpocket.com
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Hvar
Croatia Majerovica bb, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 24 00,
fax. (+385-21) 74 17 07, croatia-hvar@st.t-com.hr,
www.hotelcroatia.net. Ah, tranquil surroundings. Peace
and quiet! Hotel Croatia has a laid-back atmosphere that
you can enjoy from your seafront balcony or on the pebble
beach the hotel has access to. This is a prime choice for
travelers looking to relax and soak up some rays. Q28
rooms (22 doubles €70 - 170, 6 Family Rooms €135 - 195).
PJAFLGBK hhh
Riva Riva bb, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 75 01 00, fax.
(+385-21) 75 07 51, reservations@suncanihvar.com,
riva-reception@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.
com. Ideal for single travelers, party people or friends on
a getaway together, the Riva is a boutique hotel, modern
and chic through and through. Unfortunately, the rooms are
reminiscient of seats on an economy class flight: slightly
cramped and uncomfortable after long periods of time.
There are even, inexplicably, see-through glass windows on
the toilet and shower. Come mentally prepared for these
details, and you‘ll have a blast rocking out in the bar on
the ground floor or relaxing on the patio facing the harbour.
Q54 rooms (46 doubles €167 - 325, 8 suites €253 - 526).
PA6UGKhhhh
The Palace Trg Sv. Stjepana, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 19
66, fax. (+385-21) 75 07 51, reservations@suncanihvar.
com, palace@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.com.
If you were to build a palace of your own, you just might choose
to build it on the exact space that this hotel occupies, right
on the harbour on the sunny island of Hvar. You probably
wouldn‘t, however, choose to deck it out with quite the same
furniture or decorations. If you choose to brave the dated
interior, make sure you ask for a room with a view. Q73
rooms (4 singles €53 - 75, 57 doubles €84 - 194, 12 suites
€135 - 238). PHA6GKChhh
Vis
Biševo Ribarska 72, Komiža, tel. (+385-21) 71 32 79/
(+385-21) 71 31 44, fax (+385-21) 71 30 98, info@hotelbisevo.com,
www.hotel-bisevo.com. Probably the best
bet in tranquil Komiža, this functional and comfortable hotel
comes with some handy pluses like satellite TV and a balcony
for every room. Prices are per person / per day. Q130
rooms (2 singles 310 - 480kn, 123 doubles 240 - 370kn, 5
apartments 300 - 463kn). PTALBKhh
Issa Šetalište A.Zanelle 5, Vis, tel. (+385-21) 71 11 24,
fax. (+385-21) 71 17 40, hotel-issa@vis-hoteli.hr, www.
vis-hoteli.hr. While it is located just a stone‘s throw from
the center of Vis Town, the hotel is still surrounded by plenty
of green and lots of clear, sparkling water. Every room has a
balcony looking out onto the bay. Prices are per person / per
day. Q125 rooms (125 singles 310 - 575kn, 125 doubles
235 - 460kn). PALBK hhh
split.inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
WheRe to stay
Kaštela
Adria Dr. Franje Tuđmana 969, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-
21) 79 81 40, fax (+385-21) 79 81 50, info@hotel-adria.
hr, www.hotel-adria.hr. If waking up for that 06:00am flight
intimidates you a bit, Hotel Adria‘s location can afford you a
few extra winks the night before and has comfortable rooms
and a pleasant staff to boot. If the sound of planes taking
off and landing distracts you, close the windows, crank up
the AC and the noise virtually disappears. Q11 rooms (2
singles €51 - 61, 5 doubles €72 - 86, 4 triples €100 - 116).
PALBKhhh
Podstrana
Le Meridien Lav Grljevačka 2a, Podstrana, tel. (+385-
21) 50 05 00, fax (+385-21) 50 03 00, reservations_
split@lemeridien.com, www.lemeridien.com/split.
Brand new and exclusive with 381 guest rooms and suites.
Set on a marina promenade; expect to be dazzled by the
multitude of restaurants, bars, cafes, plus casino, sports
bar and nightclub. Furthermore, the recreational complex
and the astounding Diocletian Spa and Wellness Centre are
state of the art. With over 800m of beach frontage, it really
is paradise. This ultra-modern new hotel complex is located
8km from the centre of Split. Q381 rooms (370 singles
€290, 370 doubles €330 - 480, 2 Diplomatic Suites €1300,
2 Family Suites €700, 5 Junior Suites €650, 2 Presidential
Suites €2200). POTHA6UFLGBKDCW
hhhhh
San Antonio Grljevačka 30, Podstrana, tel. (+385-
21) 33 61 11, fax (+385-21) 33 53 48, info@hotelsanantonio.com,
www.hotel-sanantonio.com. The words
“San Antonio” cull up images of Texas, but Texas this is not.
This particular San Antonio is a four-star hotel right on the
beach in Podstrana, 8km from the old town. High-speed
Internet is available, along with a whole list of other amenities.
Ideal for long sessions of quiet chilling on the beach. Q23
rooms (15 singles €155 - 170, 15 doubles €190 - 210, 15
triples €220 - 245, 6 suites €200 - 325, 2 Penthouses €240
- 275). PHAFLGBKDC hhhh
Trogir
Pašike Sinjska bb, Trogir, tel. (+385-21) 88 51 85/
(+385-) 091 484 84 34, fax (+385-21) 79 77 29, info@
hotelpasike.com, www.hotelpasike.com. While the
amenities and services are thoroughly modern, the decor
and the rich wood furniture is thoroughly 19th and early 20th
century, making this one of most the intriguing hotel choices in
the area. Q14 rooms (2 singles 600kn, 11 doubles 800kn,
1 apartments 1200kn). PAGBKhhhh
Summer 2011
17

18 RestauRaNts
International
Aci Grašo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85
60, restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com, www.adriatic-graso.
com. With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the
Aci Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any
of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine
with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar
bar. Parking is free. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 110kn).
PAGB
Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8,
tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, info@adriana.hr, www.hoteladriana.hr.
This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always
attracts a crowd. Why? It‘s a prime location for people
watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or
any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends
and sometimes on weekdays come summer time. Fairly
priced! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 160kn). PAGB
Apetit I-2, Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-)
098 173 07 36, apetit.split@gmail.com, www.apetitsplit.hr.
Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards
a modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the
first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful
bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green colour,
and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian classics are
prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just a twist to bring
them up to date. There are vegetarian choices, and top
quality wine is served by the glass. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(60 - 100kn). PJAG
Bistro Black Cat K-3, Šegvića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 02
84/(+385-) 099 215 46 11, blackcat.bistro@gmail.com.
Providing culinary diversity at a moderate price, Black Cat is
a unique institution in Split, and is gathering a growing army
of devoted regulars as a result. The repertoire kicks off from
lunchtime with sandwiches and salads, not to mention a maincourse
menu that embraces Thai, Indonesian, Mediterranean
and veggie options. A secluded outdoor terrace and affordable
cocktails make it a good place to drink as well. Whatever you
order, try and leave room for the outstanding desserts, which
are made in-house rather than ordered from the mainstream
bakeries. The more you travel around the Adriatic, the more
you‘ll realise what a valuable culinary haven the Black Cat
actually is. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 60kn).
PAGB
Boban E-3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. (+385-21) 54 33 00,
info@restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban.
com. The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are
beautiful settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared
with traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the
best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This
place does it all, and does it well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). PAGB
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino 6 Animal friendly
R Internet B Outside seatingde
Cardo J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel.
(+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel-atrium.hr. A touch of
class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some
cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that
encompasses all of the Mediterranean‘s charm and a wine
list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet
and is sure to please. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn).
PAG
Duje D-2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385-21) 54 81
00, mail@restoranduje.hr, www.restoranduje.hr.
This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports
recreation centre - Koteks. It‘s a classic family eatery with
a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (65 - 400kn). PAGB
Kadena E-3, Ivana pl. Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94
00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85, info@restorankadena.com,
www.restorankadena.com. Dine with a view in a restaurant
which prides itself on fine Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a
window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto
the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The
fish platter ala Kadena is just one of the many delights on
offer. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (80 -
130kn). PAGB
Le Monde H-1, Plinarska 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 65/
(+385-21) 38 88 83, www.lemonde.hr. Dine with a touch
of class as this slightly hidden restaurant boasts a trim interior
and a choice of terraces. Dalmatian fish and meat specialties
are on the menu along with local wine. It‘s tucked away in the
busy Varoš district but worth the visit. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(50 - 180kn). PAGB
Marko Lokas
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Pizza
Theirs is of the thin-crust variety, and the centre will more
closely resemble a soup if you don‘t give it time to cool.
There‘s no shortage of variations on the theme, and a
bonus for the economically challenged is the relatively
miniscule price of a pie, 25 - 45kn. Key to toppings:
feferoni (peppers), frutti di mare (seafood), gljiva
(mushrooms), maslina (olive), rajčica / pomidor (tomato),
sir (cheese), slanina (bacon), šunka (ham).
Galija I-2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 32.
The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near
the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the
bathroom but that‘s all part of the fun. They serve a wide
selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive
portions QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (20 -
90kn). PAGB
Gušt J-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 63 33. You‘ve
got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it‘s right at the
top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store
Prima Grad and take the street on the right. After 50m, turn
left and take an immediate left again. There you‘ll find Gušt,
a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (34 - 49kn). PAG
Maslina I-2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88,
konmaslina@net.hr. A cute little restaurant that‘s a tad
hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off
Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the
prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to
mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta. Q Open 10:00 -
24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 90kn). PAGB
split.inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
RestauRaNts
Velo misto No 1 H-1, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38
47 77. There are two Velo Misto‘s, one located in Spinut near
the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza and the other
Velo Misto is located in Zenta (Šetalište Kalafata bb) with a
huge terrace that overlooks the sea. Velo Misto by the way,
was the name of a popular TV series with performances by
top Split theatre thespians. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 130kn). PAG
Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 34
50 15. Located inside the palace walls, this restaurant takes
the name ‘The Golden Gate‘ and is surrounded by a lovely
courtyard that brings much needed shade come summer. The
wood fire oven produces great thin based pizzas. The salads
are significantly filling. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun.
(20 - 60kn). PNGB
Seafood
Bota Šare D-3, Bačvice bb, tel. (+385-21) 48 86 48,
www.bota-sare.hr. Situated right above the Bačvice Beach
with an extensive seafood menu, this eatery is extremely
popular amongst locals and tourists. A refined interior and
extensive wine list provide the finishing touches. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 400kn). PAGB
Jugo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 89 00.
Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to your
liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with magical
views of the old town. The yachts moored in the ACI Marina
are only a stepping stone away making the walk on the Riva
ever so pleasant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn).
PAGB
Summer 2011
19

20 RestauRaNts
Marko Lokas
Noštromo I-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091
405 66 66, info@restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restorannostromo.hr.
Here‘s your chance to sample a typical Croatian
menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well.
Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in
the area and you‘ll be charged accordingly for the privilege
of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the
ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). PNG
Posejdon I-2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49.
Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local
Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an
assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer. It‘s
located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace, when
you pass ‘Ispod ure‘ (under the clock tower) simply turn right.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. (50 - 200kn). PJAGB
Stellon D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište bb, tel. (+385-21)
48 92 00. Stelon‘s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean
cuisine. The restaurant overlooks the beach and has
a pleasingly contemporary ambience, creating relaxed
surroundings for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve
your seat during the summer! QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:30. (45 - 390kn). PAGB
Zrno soli C-2, Uvala baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 93
33, zrnosoli.split@gmail.com, www.zrnosoli.hr. This
restaurant has class written all over it. New to the scene, it is
stylish both in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and has
lovely views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean, the
service is second to none and if you do not mind forking out
the extra dollar, you will definitely get what you pay for. Quality
all-round! QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. (30 - 80kn). A
Traditional
Fife H-3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52
23/(+385-) 098 40 37 30, www.buffet-fife.com. Long
regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian
home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point
for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big,
tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef
cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta),
tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife‘s only
drawback is it‘s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who
have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be
difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.
QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 50kn). PNGB
Hvaranin H-2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 091 767
58 91. To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a
konoba, ‘small old stone buildings‘ where fisherman once spoke
tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh
fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve
a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija. Q Open
12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 300kn). PNG
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Kibela J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 62 05/
(+385-) 091 534 09 40. A small, homey restaurant hidden
away in the palace complex, Buffet Kibela has a satisfying list
of meat and seafood choices on its daily menu, prepared fresh
every day. The food is the perfect size for lunch and is brought
out virtually instantaneously by the polite and attentive staff.
Thumbs up. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (35 - 80kn). PNGB
Kod Joze J-2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97.
Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely
delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided
your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia)
at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged,
satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music
is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a
knock out. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 400kn). PAGB
Konoba Leut H-2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49
09 44. This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals
as it offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of
Dalmatian cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with
gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual variant
on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad beans. We
particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice - clams. Plate salads
are also on the menu for a lighter bite. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(40 - 120kn). PAGB
split.inyourpocket.com
RestauRaNts
Konoba Varoš H-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. (+385-21)
39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros.com. It‘s situated
in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior
draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary
but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a
big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the
blue (oily) fish or octopus. It‘s a tad pricey but popular with
locals and the wine list is endless. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(30 - 200kn). PAG
Lučica C-2, Lučica 7, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63. Dining
in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza ain‘t bad,
actually it‘s quite good. It‘s located at the Spinut Marina,
on the northern side of Mt Marjan. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 90kn). PALB
Oštarija u Viđakovi D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel.
(+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27. With a
fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this is
a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional
fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced
meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive
menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dishes
if you‘re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs
room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the
roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger
gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils
and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things
cosy wherever you choose to sit. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(45 - 360kn). PAGB
Fast food
www.inyourpocket.com
Delta I-2, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. (+385-21)
33 84 60. Stop in for a quick pastry snack and tasty
sandwich. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (10 - 18kn). B
Kantun Paulina I-2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21)
39 59 73. Some situations just call for a nice serving
of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova,
and this little stand on the corner serves them up right.
There‘s no seating available but you can park it on a
bench at the street and watch the night-time drama
unfold. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
Mc Donald‘s D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Center Joker),
tel. (+385-21) 49 33 20, www.mcdonalds.hr. It is
there. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (7.5 - 37kn). PAB
Rizzo I-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/
(+385-) 091 574 07 64. Another player in the local
snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of
sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function
perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (6 - 18kn). B
Summer 2011
21

22 RestauRaNts cafÉs 23
Desserts
Marko Lokas
Bobis-Riva I-3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20.
A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city‘s
citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a
load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this
one has arguably the best location, as it‘s right on the
Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate
pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for
your hike around Marjan. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun
07:00 - 22:00. PNGB
Creme de la Creme I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-
21) 35 51 23. You have a sweet tooth and the craving
has hit, so why not wander down to one of the newest
pastry shops in town. Fantastic cakes, homemade
pastries, and desserts served with coffee, liqueurs and
juices. Its minimalistic interior includes some trendy retro
details, everything looks simple and refreshing. Located
opposite the movie theatre Karaman, they also have
a terrace for some outdoor peace and quiet. QOpen
07:00 - 22:30. PAGBX
Galerija J-2, Dominisova 9. The imaginative and
pleasant decor pays perfect compliment to the sweets
on offer and the music tinkling away in the background is
a nice touch. A good alternative to the standard dessert
places around town. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00.
Kuća kolača D-3, Ulica kralja Zvonimira 16, tel.
(+385-) 098 930 07 54/(+385-) 095 926 40 30.
Love your cakes and want to try the traditional home
recipes of the region, look no further as the staff here
serves homemade cakes, sweets and salty pastries.
There is no seating so it is all take out and on the go.
Not bad if you would like a nibble on the beach! Q Open
09:30 - 20:00. Sun Open on request. N
Kuća sladoleda Carmen I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6,
tel. (+385-21) 34 49 89. Cool off at Kuća Carmen as
they offer you a wide range of ice-creams and beverages.
From the creamy to the fruity, it has it all the flavors. It‘s
close to the Croatian National Theatre, therefore hard to
miss. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PNGB
La Maison de Sarah I-3, Obala hrv. narodnog
preporoda 20. The proprietors of La Maison de
Sarah meet the pastry demands of coffee-sipping
Riva-ites nicely with a whole selection of handmade
delights, including authentic French tarts and pastries.
Unfortunately, it‘s not actually a house - all the pastries
are take-away only. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. N
Tradicija I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 10 70.
This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand
old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits,
cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to
tradition - just as the name itself! QOpen 08:00 - 21:30,
Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. N
Pimpinella E-3, Spinčićeva 2a, tel. (+385-21) 38 96
06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, pimpinellast@yahoo.com.
A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house.
The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast lamb with
vegetables and much more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. (45 - 70kn). PAGB
Šperun H-2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99. A cute
buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the
Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local
cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated
with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special
is often a good bet. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn).
PAGB
Terra Antika D-3, Prilaz Braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-
21) 31 48 01, info@terra-antika.net, www.terra-antika.
net. This cellar restaurant and wine bar located in Bačvice
stows authentic Croatian vino that simply delights whilst
nibbling on tapas Croatian style. The varied menu features
the likes of spicy Slavonian sausage and prosciutto as well
as dishes infused with flavoursome Istrian truffles. QOpen
17:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). PA
Zlatna ribica I-2, Kraj Sv. Marije 8, tel. (+385-21) 34
87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Unpretentious little bar
located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood
to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide
the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in. QOpen
06:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. (40 - 70kn). PNG
Vegetarian
Makrovega I-2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40,
info@makrovega.hr, www.makrovega.hr. If you‘re in need
of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg…you‘ll find them all
here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices.
The veggies are home grown or organic. QOpen 09:00 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 70kn). PNG
Froggy flavours
Marko Lokas
The culinary repertoire of inland Dalmatia has always
reserved a special role for the frog (žaba). Traditionally
considered a staple of working families, frogs’ legs are
now something of a delicacy, and urban foodies from
Split and Zagreb will make special trips to provincial
konobe to seek out the best frog recipes.
In the Cetina region (Cetinska Krajina) inland from
Split, frogs’ legs are usually fried in breadcrumbs or
boiled with potatoes. The provincial town of Trilj is a
popular gastronomic destination with two outstanding
restaurants, the Lovac (tel. 83 12 68) and the Čaporice
in the Sveti Mihovil hotel (tel. 83 17 70).
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
As you wind your way through the streets and alleys of
Split‘s old town, you‘ll encounter more cafes and bars than
you can shake a stick at and the summer season will offer
you no end of folks to browse impertinently, be they tourist
or local. Nearly every cafe offers some kind of outdoor
seating, but selecting the right spot will significantly affect
your cool rating. Choose wisely.
Bajamonti I-2, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10
33. The stunning Prokurative Square is home to this brand
new classical café and restaurant which is named in honour
of Antonio Bajamonti, a famous 19th century Mayor of the
city. Choose to sip coffee downstairs or head upstairs to
the restaurant and terrace which houses Croatian and in
particular local Dalmatian cuisine combined with assorted
Mediterranean, French and Italian specialties. Opened just
weeks ago, it is sleek and of high quality. QOpen 07:30 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. PAGBX
Favola I-2, Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. (+385-21)
34 48 48. A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here‘s
a great opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café
along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they‘d state its
location as the second row by the sea, meaning it‘s not coffee
on the waterfront but directly behind it. It‘s name is Italian for
fairytale and we must absurdly state that the female toilet is
unusually narrow! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGB
Gaga I-2, Iza Lože 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 82 57. In the
shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square -
Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can
be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the
interesting local folk. Q Open 07:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00
- 03:00. PNGB
Kalafatić E-3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-21) 38 91 01/
(+385-) 095 914 90 53, 098 941 98 86. If you wish to
take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is to Zenta
bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying around
with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the bay
and boats and the smell of the sea, it‘s a real treat. Be sure
to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the way
to the popular Bačvice beach. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 07:00 - 01:00. Open 10:00 - 24:00 (Restaurant). (50 -
110kn). PAGB
Kavana Procaffe C-2, Špinutska 67, tel. (+385-21)
38 43 23, info@procaffe.hr, www.procaffe.hr. A superb
place for reading the daily paper and sipping a coffee with an
outlook toward the Kaštela towns and the Kozjak mountain.
In lovely weather, there‘s nothing better than sitting here
and watching the passing sailboats and rowboats. QOpen
07:00 - 01:00. PAGB
Lvxor J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82,
lvxor@lvxor.hr, www.lvxor.hr. A titular nod to the sixteen
sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum
(and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor‘s location on the
Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality
of the location. There‘s wireless Internet, magazines and
daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that
includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and
breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions
are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge
around in true imperial style. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. PAGB
Po Bota I-2, Šubićeva 2. If you prefer an intimate affair,
come to this café bar which doubles up as an art exhibition
of the local artists. The terrace borders onto the Fruit square
(Voćni trg) giving a friendly local atmosphere. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. GBX
www.inyourpocket.com
split.inyourpocket.com
Šetač I-1, Poljana Tina Ujevića bb. The seven axes
embedded in pieces of wood lining the back wall are what
initially attracted our interest, but, alas, they remained a
mystery. Perhaps you can corner a server and make them
spill the beans regarding their origins. Axes notwithstanding,
the bar‘s large outdoor seating area and small but stylish
interior make for a pleasant enough place to have a coffee
and check out the passersby. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun
08:00 - 24:00. PB
Teak caffe J-2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 27 37
18, teakcaffe@gmail.com. Yep, the interior is all done up in
teak and lined on one side by the original northern wall of the
palace. Outdoor seating is available in a pleasant courtyard,
cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings.
Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 -
14:00, 20:00 - 24:00. PNGB
Teraca Bamba H-3, Solurat 7, tel. (+385-) 091 311
09 98. Give the interior of this one a pass unless the need
arises to weave your way through the tables and patrons to
visit the unisex bathroom. Until then, soak up the resplendent
view from the terrace of ships to-ing and fro-ing across
the harbor. For best results, experience with an attractive
significant other. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 -
02:00. PNBX
Tonik Juicy Bar H-2, Ban Mladenova 5, tel. (+385-21)
39 48 88. A small but charming place for a break in between
checking out the city. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. PNGB
Vidilica C-2/3, Nazorov prilaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 49
25. The best thing about this one is the view, and as far as
views go, it doesn‘t get much better. The harbor and the Riva,
the sea and the islands are all on glorious display. Plus, the
cafe‘s location makes it a perfect starting or finishing point
to an afternoon spent exploring Marjan. QOpen 08:00 -
24:00. PGB
Žbirac D-3, Šetalište Bačvice bb, kontakt@zbirac.hr,
www.zbirac.hr. It is said that this is possibly the best place
in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot
has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach.
Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the
day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.
Summer 2010

24 Nightlife
Bars
Bifora E-2, Bernardinova 5. Decorated with scenes from
someone‘s psychedelic experience or a particularly bizarre
fairy tale, Bifora has interesting clientele, a quirky, relaxed vibe
and attracts a large number of revelers in the summer months.
Definitely a much-frequented stop for Split party-goers.
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PJBX
Buža I-2, Priora Petra 7. Nestled alongside a group of
narrow bars lies Buža, a smaller alternative spot where one
can enjoy the nights with rock music. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. PJBX
Element bar I-2, Ispod ure 2, tel. (+385-) 098 987
77 80. In the heart of the old city centre, this café has a
beautifully decorated interior in a lounge bar kind of style.
What makes it different is the soundtrack: instead of the
usual easy-listening house music soundtrack, the music menu
consists of good quality rock music, and live bands are put
on once or twice a week. And to make things almost perfect,
Element has an excellent choice of specialist coffees. Q
Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. BE
Ghetto J-2, Dosud 10. Furry, fluffy seats complemented by
a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not
slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated
to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide. QOpen 10:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PNBX
Mosquito J-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Mosquito squeezes a
great deal into a small space, with spiral staircases linking
an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched
furnishings and bright interior colours. There‘s plenty of
loungey furniture to slump into, and a popular terrace outside.
Serves draught Guinness. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. PNBX
Na kantunu J-2, Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41
91. Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge
Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at least
fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you‘ve picked
up any of the local sporting patriotism since your arrival in
the city. Na Kantunu‘s real advantage however is the old-town
location, with outdoor seating in a small square. Serving
bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales
worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed Lobkowicz, it‘s also
an outstanding place for a beer. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PB
Puls2 I-2, Buvinina 1. It‘s easy to get to Puls, just take a
right from the Voćni trg and straight in the narrow passage
you‘ll find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and colourful
chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to its
industrially fitted interior. Whether you elect to stand or sit
you‘re sure to enjoy this place, especially its variety of delish
cocktails and DJ beats on weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNGBXW
Red Room J-2, Cararina poljana 4. Hang out of a more
mature and discerning crowd, this intimately lighted and comfy
space has an altogether positive, relaxing vibe enhanced
by light and smooth music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 02:00. PNBXW
ST Riva I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18,
tel. (+385-) 098 31 49 01, info.striva@gmail.com, www.
st-riva.com. Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily
located along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on
hot summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views
you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to
chill whilst sipping beverages. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. PJGB
Clubs
Hemingway C-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel.
(+385-) 099 211 99 93, split@hemingway.hr, www.
hemingway.hr. Nope, your fancy trainers won‘t cut it here,
darlings. In fact your plimsoles won‘t even make it past the
door. This is Split‘s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to
believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom
Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai. QOpen 08:00 -
06:00. PAGBXW
Jungla A-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića bb, tel. (+385-)
095 897 29 21. The new season at this beach bar Jungle
(located under Šetalište I.Meštrović) starts with an electric
beat and continues in that rhythm all summer long. You‘re
invited! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
06:00. PNGBX
Kocka D/E-2, Savska bb, tel. (+385-21) 54 05 37, kum.
kocka@gmail.com, www.kocka.hr. In this club you‘re sure
to hear the sounds of underground metal/rock and gothic
rock, ‘warm up party‘, drum n bass, punk, hip hop…..The
club is located under Mažuranićevo šetalište in the basement
room of the Youth Centre (Dom mladih). As a reminder, the
club doesn‘t operate daily during the summer months but
does open for organized concerts and special events, so it‘s
best to keep track via the web.
Obojena Svjetlost A-3, Meštrovićevo šetalište 35,
tel. (+385-21) 35 82 80. This place is noted as a popular
hang-out. Named „Obojena“ by the locals, it‘s situated just
under Kaštelet towards Marjan. Swing by and stay for the
parties and concerts all summer. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.
O‘Hara E-3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. (+385-) 098 36 42
62, infoohara@gmail.com, www.ohara.hr. Small groups
of Split‘s young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying
Mecca, a beach-side night club with club hits throbbing at
maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink
specials. If you‘re in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend
night out, look elsewhere. A lounge and bar area provides
temporary escape from the club crush. QOpen 08:00 -
03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AGBX
Vanilla C-2, Poljudski put b.b., tel. (+385-) 098 29 25
22. Match the look of Split‘s beautiful people who frequent
this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making
the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You‘ll find two large
bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes on the
speakers and a hip decor. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 04:00. PNGBX
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Consisting of an imperial Roman palace that was taken
over by the plebs and turned into a thronging city, central
Split is an attraction in itself. There‘s no single must-see
attraction here: it‘s really a question of taking time to stroll
the palace‘s narrow, tunnel-like streets, where Roman,
medieval and Renaissance buildings jostle together
to form a unique urban jumble. And you shouldn‘t just
restrict your wanderings to the city centre: residential
neighbourhoods such as Veli Varoš, Lučac and Manuš are
filled with the kind of picturesque alleys and stone houses
that are so typical of traditional Dalmatian towns. Rising
above the city to the west, Marjan hill presents an easily
accessible expanse of woodland park, with some fine
views back towards the centre.
Essential Split
Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) I/J-2.
A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the
hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically
any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace
at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home.
Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years
and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region,
including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to
sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian‘s
palace has become the quintessential „living museum“, as
modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the
ancient palace complex.
The part of the palace known as „the basement“ was built
during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments
placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered
up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now,
it‘s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors
the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit
to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the
palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces
is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern
end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape.
At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle
is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people
leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient
architectural structures.
Fish Market (Ribarnica) I-2, Obrov 5. Upon entering,
you might feel compelled to crack the classic, “Something‘s
fishy here…” joke, but please refrain - it‘s been said before.
What you can do is check out the hustle and bustle of
weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has been going
on at this site since the fish market moved from its original
split.inyourpocket.com
What to see
location in the south-eastern part of the palace complex in
1843. The interesting smells emanating from the fish market
might be compounded with another distinctive odor wafting
through the air, that of sulphur. There‘s a sulphur spa nearby
whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of fish, creating
a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas.
Green Market (Pazar) J-3. Any traveller worth their salt
wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and
Split‘s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump
in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol‘
small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy
involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing
and other odds and ends.
Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) A/B-2/3, . When ready to
escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia‘s second city, visitors
can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to
the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of
paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests
and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or
walking should be started just like the locals would, with a
drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula
is home to several points of interest, including the remains
of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels
from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps
leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on
the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be
seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as
the island of Vis.
Riva I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. If you
wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog naradnog
preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival),
you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just
ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right
direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront
that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on
its south side. It‘s the de facto gathering spot, day and night,
for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that
have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup
of coffee and people-watching.
Summer 2011
25

26 What to see
The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius
(Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) J-2, . Eleven of the
twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle
have been destroyed by Christians who took exception
to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth
remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the
mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor‘s tomb has long
since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the
Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian‘s rule do
remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that
can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently
on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter
a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another
enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical
irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian‘s
victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior
of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely
view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.
Veli Varoš H-2, . Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is
a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments
that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It‘s well worth taking a stroll
around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what
daily life is like around Split.
Museums
Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-2,
Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93
40, info@armus.hr, www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski.
Even though it‘s situated north of the town centre, Split‘s
archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The
museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum
in Croatia. The museum‘s contents come mainly from central
Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone
epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and
glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of
other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various
historical periods including pre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek
and Medieval. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.
City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) J-2, Papalićeva
1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72,
muzej-grada-st@st.t-com.hr, www.mgst.net. The Papalić
family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in
the process of becoming one of the city‘s most respected
families, built a small palace to serve as their family‘s home.
Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split,
the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić
and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from
nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent
years to include various paintings and artworks, along with
fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that
were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork
on display, there are numerous documents, photographs,
maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of
Split. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Admission 5 -10kn.
Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski pomorski
muzej) K-2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-
21) 34 77 88/(+385-21) 34 73 46, hpms@hpms.hr,
www.hpms.hr. Spend all your time cocooned in the old
town and you‘ll miss out on many of Split‘s more quirky
delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one.
It‘s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians
in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and
subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire.
Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model
ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to
twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all
manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval
uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the
ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-
Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off,
you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats
while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which
roams free on the east side of the fortress. Q Open 09:00
- 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Sun Open by prior arrangement.
Admission 5 - 10kn.
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) J-3,
Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, etnografski-muzejst@st.t-com.hr,
www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. If you‘re
into making an in-depth examination of Croatia‘s cultural
tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you‘re
in luck. Split‘s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910
and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery
and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like
knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised
in the region over the years. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July 01 - September 15 Open
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission
5 - 10kn.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments
(Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) A-3,
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39
01/(+385-21) 32 39 05, muzej-has1@st.t-com.hr,
www.mhas-split.hr. Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit
medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the
Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived
a turbulent history that has seen the museum‘s site change
frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection
and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to
the museum‘s current location, opened in 1976, will give
you the chance to view part of the museum‘s 3,000-piece
collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items
spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.
Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.
Galleries
Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović)
J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55/
(+385-21) 36 01 67, gorana@mgst.net, www.mgst.
net. Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifullyrestored
Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the
career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953). Croatia‘s
leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a lifelong
fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir
and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject
matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović‘s uniquely
hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re-creation of the artist‘s
former studio - including dolls, curios and an extraordinary
collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar
Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović‘s life can be seen
on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy,
sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in. QOpen 09:00 -
21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.
split.inyourpocket.com
What to see
Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine Kaštelet B-3,
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34
08 00, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Housed
in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself,
the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the
story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as
a stonecutter‘s apprentice to an exalted position in the
international art scene. Meštrović‘s influences ranged from
modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing
an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes
an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside
religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family
members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he
produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur
Ninski in Split (see „Landmarks“). After teaching in Zagreb
Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first
at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South
Bend, Indiana in 1961.
A five-minute walk further west along the same road is
the Kaštelet, a 16th-century summer house bought by
Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies
what is arguably the artist‘s most stunning creation, a cycle
of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result
of almost twenty years‘ work, the cycle incorporates motifs
from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce
an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.
Become a fan of Split
In Your Pocket on
Summer 2011
27

28 What to see
Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) J-2, Ulica
kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 11/(+385-21)
35 01 12, galerija-umjetnina@galum.hr, www.galum.
hr. Recently re-opened in its brand-new home (a restored
former hospital), Split‘s main art gallery boasts one of the
Adriatic‘s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is
represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano
and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the
overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian
art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and
Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina
Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of
material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Admission 10 - 20kn.
The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske
katedrale) J-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5. The treasury holds a
collection of golden artifacts and church garments from
the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of
the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia‘s oldest
manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar
katular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma
Arhiđakon from the 13th century.
Zoo
Zoo (Zoološki vrt) C-2, Kolombatićevo šetalište 2,
Marjan, tel. (+385-21) 39 45 25. Despite the presence
of the occasional exotic beast here and there, Split‘s
zoo is a rather modest affair that displays local farm
animals alongside the odd Croatian wolf, boar or vulture.
And unless you have kids in tow who need entertaining,
there‘s not much point in coming to be honest. The cages
do contain some odd combinations, with peacocks,
rabbits and sheep all sharing one enclosure, and a
bemused ostrich rooming with the Shetland ponies in
another. The zoo‘s stampeding herd of guinea pigs will
trigger nightmare visions for anyone who remembers
the “Trouble with Tribbles” episode of Star Trek. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.
Churches
Saint Dominic‘s Church and Monastery (Crkva
i Samostan sv. Dominika) J-2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel.
(+385-21) 32 34 71, samostan.split@dominikanci.hr,
www.dominikanci.hr/zupa-gospe-od-ruzarija. Across from
the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic‘s
Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its
current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning
of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the
painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano‘ by Jacopo Palma Jr and
the ‘Vision in the Temple‘, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass:
07:00, 08:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00,
11:00 and 19:00. Q Open 06:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30.
The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva
Gospe od Zvonika) I-2. Just inside the Iron Gates inside
Diocletian‘s Palace you will find the entry to a chapel. Founded
in the 6th century under Byzantine rule, the chapel was
consecrated to St Theodore, patron saint of soldiers. It‘s bell
tower, built around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque
bell tower in Dalmatia. The chapel was renamed after a 13th
century medieval icon which once hung in the chapel and is
now kept in the Cathedral Treasury.
The Church of Saint Francis (Samostanska crkva
sv. Frane) I-2, Trg Republike. When you climb to the
Marjan Mountain, you‘ll pass by the church of Saint Francais
(13th century) in which there are headstones that depict
renaissance fine art. The headstones are of famous writer
Marko Marulić (1450-1524), the tombs of Jero Kavanjanin
(1641-1714), Toma Arhiđakon (around 1200-1268) as well
composer Ivan Lukačić (1548-1648). Numerous baroque
paintings and statues decorate the inside of the church, not
to mention the gothic cloister on the outside.
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The Church of Saint Martin (Golden gate)
(Crkvica sv. Martina) J-2, . The church is 1.64m wide
and 10m long and it just might be the smallest church in
the world. It used to be the passage for watchmen who
would secure the entrance into the Diocletian Palace. At the
beginning of the 9th century it was turned into a Christian
church and consecrated to Saint Martin. Next to the church,
there is a Dominican convent. The first nuns arrived to Split in
the 14th century and settled next to the church at the Golden
Gates. They were called picokare. Today, the nuns take care
of the nearby Cathedral of Saint Domnius.
The Franciscan Church and Monastery of
the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
(Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja
Blažene Djevice Marije) C-1, Poljudsko šetalište 2,
tel. (+385-21) 38 13 77, samostan.poljud@gmail.com,
www.samostan-poljud.com. On the northern side of the
Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you‘ll find the
Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives
from the Latin word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this
area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop
Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de
Palude). The Franciscan church and monastery is the most
valuable gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The church and
monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts.
The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the
15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th
century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from
the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III
in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin‘s
feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the
Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction.
Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 08:30, 10:00 and
20:00. Q Open by prior arrangement.
The Saint Clara Monastery and Church (Samostan
i Crkva sv. Klare) K-1, Klarina 1a. A well maintained
church which is home to a painted 13th century Romanesque
crucifix, several icons as well as renaissance and baroque
paintings by Venetian artists.
City tours
Sirena J-2, Mihaljevićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 25 16
10, sirena.split@hi.t-com.hr, www.sirena-booking.hr.
Booking also at Peristil. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.
Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81
41, info@travel49.com, www.travel49.com. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00.
Landmarks
Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno
kazalište) I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 49
99/(+385-21) 30 69 08, hnk-split@hnk-split.hr, www.
hnk-split.hr. The story of Croatia‘s National Theatre in Split
is long and complicated but begins on December 26, 1859,
right near the beginning of a period of autonomy in the city.
Antonio Bajamonti was, during a brief respite from Venetian
and Austro-Hungarian control, the city‘s leader and a principal
investor in the theatre that ultimately bore his name. Sadly,
that theatre was almost completely destroyed in a fire in 1881
and plans to re-build on the original site were never realised.
The theatre was relocated to its present location on (street)
and has resided there since.
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What to see
Summer 2011
29

30 What to see
Grgur Ninski J-2. In 926, the representatives of Croatian
churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to
conduct a reform of the then current church system. The
Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with
the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed
in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and
official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a
firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions.
In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of
Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory
of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church
intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is
recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers
of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive
Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan
Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can
rub his shiny big toe for good luck).
Poljud Stadium (Stadion Poljud). Known to locals
as „Poljudska ljepotica“ or the „Poljud beauty“, Poljud is the
second largest stadium in Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium
in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000 people. Poljud was
slated for a massive re-construction in anticipation of a joint
Croatia / Hungary bid to host the UEFA cup in 2012. However,
as Poland and the Ukraine were chosen to host the games,
Adriatic photo service
Diocletian
The history of the early part of his life is rather fuzzy,
but Diocles (also Diocletian in English) is believed to
have been born in about 244 near Solin, 8km away from
present-day Split. Diocletian was Roman Emperor from
November 20, 284 to May 1, 305 and, by establishing a
strong autocracy and strengthening the military, brought
an end to the period of the Roman Empire known as the
“Crisis of the Third Century.”
One of the many distinctions of Diocletian’s rule was the
creation of the Tetrarchy, which is generally credited with
ending the aforementioned Crisis of the Third Century. To
distribute power and authority more evenly, Diocletian
initially named a co-emperor, Maximian, to look after
affairs in the Western regions of the Empire. In 293,
desiring even more focus on civic and military matters,
two more Caesars (junior emperors) were named, with
each leader operating out of their own capital on on the
frontiers of the Empire.
After twenty years of rule,
Diocletian and Maximian
abdicated power. Newlyappointed
Tetrarchs quickly
made the system of rule a
formula for civil war, and this
unique form of government
collapsed. Diocletian saw
his friends and allies turn
against him and each other,
with Maximian even forced
to commit suicide. By this
time, Diocletian was in
his elaborate retirement
palace that he had had
constructed, the ruins of
which form the core of the
old town of modern-day
Split. On December 3, 311,
after a tumultuous life as the
leader of the Roman empire,
Diocletian died.
the re-construction plan has been put on hold. The stadium
was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as
part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games and
was officially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed
fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK
Hajduk Split.By far the most important and revered sports
team in Dalmatia, a dedicated fanbase around the world has
followed Hajduk throughout the team‘s history. In the former
Yugoslavia, Hajduk was one of the few teams to attract
fans from different regions and ethnicities, particularly with
Albanians in Kosovo. And there are numerous anecdotes
about Hajduk never playing a game without at least some of
their loyal fans in the stands, the Torcida. Named for Brazilian
football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the
1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is ‚to cheer‘), the
Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters
groups in Europe. The Torcida generally call Hajduk players
as „bili“, which in local dialect is the plural form of bijeli, or
white, in reference to the white shirts that, along with blue
shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform.Along with the team‘s
rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality football
players, with several going on to illustrious careers in European
club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national
team placed third in the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven
starters were former Hajduk players.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Prokurative (Trg Republike) I-2, Trg Republike.
Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large, open square
surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate
neo-Renaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On
the southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of
the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during
the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision of
General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by the
architecture of the same period in Venice. While relatively
unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes alive
in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the most
popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival of Split.
Streets and Squares
Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) I-2. From
1806 to 1813, Napoleon ruled the city of Split, along with
many of its Dalmatian neighbour-cities. Apparently, the French
demanded to occupy a relatively sophisticated city, as many
urban improvements were made under the supervision of the
French General Auguste Marmont. Walls were torn down, new
roads were built and electricity powered the city for the first
time. To return the favour, Split has immortalized Marmont
in the name of this popular pedestrian street, full of posh
shops and cafés.
Narodni (People‘s) Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca)
I-2, . A trip west from the Peristyle along Krešimirova takes
you through the Iron Gate and into Narodni trg, commonly
referred to as Pjaca, a Croatian form of the Italian word
piazza. In the fourteenth century, this square replaced the
Peristyle as the city‘s central meeting area and it remains so
to this day. The square is overlooked by a Romanesque clock
with the remains of a medieval sundial in front of a larger, older
belfry and contains numerous shops and cafés. The north
side of the square is taken up by the Town Hall (Gradska
vijećnica), a fifteenth-century construction that hosts art
or history exhibitions in the summer months.
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What to see
Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće Radića) I-2, .
Now home to various shops and businesses, Trg braće Radić
was once home to a bustling fruit market and so has been
given the unofficial name of Voćni trg. This translates to, you
might have guessed, fruit square. These days there‘s no fruit
in sight, but there are several shops and points of interest
that call this square home, including the Venetian castello and
tower, both of which were constructed in 1435. The northern
side of the square is dominated by the Milesi Palace, one of
the best examples of Baroque architecture in Dalmatia. The
statue that stands in front of the palace is relatively small but
represents a large figure from Croatian history, that of Marko
Marulić, a 15th-century poet who was one of the first literary
figures to use Croatian language. The statue was created by
another eminent Croatian historial figure, Ivan Meštrović.
Fine lookin´ Ladies
Ask a Croatian where to go to see the most beautiful
women and most will point you directly to Split (even
the bitter females of the population). A strange and
nearly mystical aura surrounds these creatures, and
indeed the world fashion industry makes no secret of
this locales rare ability to produce goddesses. They are
known especially for the combination of amazing height,
ample bosom, brilliant Mediterranean Slavic features
and a scorn for writers of city guides.
Summer 2011
31

32 mail & phoNes
Post
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can
buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they‘re
right value for what you are sending and where. Once you
put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small
yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.
Main post office E-1, Hercegovačka 1, tel. (+385-21)
38 33 65/(+385-21) 34 24 00. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Post office I/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. (+385-21)
36 14 21, www.posta.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat
07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Express mail
DHL E/F-3, Poljička cesta 29, tel. (+385-1) 665 11
11, hrspu@dhl.com, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
IN TIME D-1, Put Stinica bb, tel. (+385-21) 50 81 66/
(+385-) 091 626 20 30, 091 626 20 78, split@in-time.
hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. N
OverseasExpress J-1, Domovinskog rata 10, Dugopolje,
tel. (+385-21) 66 01 53/(+385-21) 66 01 55, split@
overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N
City express mail
City Ex F-2, Ulica grada Vukovara 183a, tel. (+385-
21) 37 66 77/(+385-) 0800 303 333, split@cityex.hr,
www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun. N
Internet places
Cyber club 100D J-1, Sinjska 2/4, tel. (+385-21) 34
81 10, info100D@gmail.com. Internet use - 20kn/hour, half
hour 10kn, printing 1kn/per page. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00,
Sun 16:00 - 22:00.
Net Com D-3, Poljana Grgura Ninskog 9 (Peristil), tel.
(+385-21) 34 76 61/(+385-) 091 311 42 22, info@n-c.
hr, www.n-c.hr. Internet use - first 15min / 5kn, price of every
next minute is 0.33kn. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81
41, www.travel49.com. 10kn/20min, 30kn/h. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00.
Making the call
You‘ve memorised the misleadingly simple code break-down,
and are ready to take the plunge (let‘s hope you decided
not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here‘s
the trick: dial the subscriber‘s six- or seven-digit number,
and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the
Croatian city code ((0)21 if you‘re calling Split for instance)
followed by the subscriber‘s number. Calling Abroad:
Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate
country code, a city or area code if applicable and the
subscriber‘s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial
your international access code, 385 (Croatia‘s country code),
the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber‘s
number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits
and begin with either 091,098,099, 092 and 095. Dial the
subscriber‘s number and wait for a human voice. For an
international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international
acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial
the remaining digits.
Mobile phones
Mobile phone use in Split is typical to most everywhere in
Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have
attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are
the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and
80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It
seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures
holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in
this central European location. The networks that exist are
VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their
SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-asyou-go
cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine.
SIM Cards: Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the
following. They all have numerous selling points throughout
the city if the below addresses aren‘t convenient for you.
T-Centar I-2/J-1, Marmontova 7-9, tel. (+385-) 0800
15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
T-Centar F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 18a, tel. (+385-) 0800
15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen
08:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. A
Tele 2 I-2, Zadarska 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 60 02,
alo2@aloalo.hr, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. A
Vip centar F-2, Vukovarska 207 (City Centre One), tel.
(+385-) 091 77 00, sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.
vipnet.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
Vip centar I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00,
sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Public telephone
All public phones in Croatia are card operated and you
can purchase one (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk
- they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and
100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone
cards which give you substantial discounts when calling
abroad.
Calling Split
From Zagreb: dial (021) and the number
Outside Croatia: dial (+385-21) and the number
Postal rates
Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10 kn
Abroad 7,10 kn
Postcrads Croatia 1,60 kn
Abroad 3,10 kn
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Public Transport
Day bus lines 1 through 18 and 21, 22 run from 05:00
to 23:00. There are three night buses, number 23,
39, 40 which run on Fridays and Saturdays. Maps and
schedules for each line can be found at their respective
stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 10kn or
from kiosks near each bus stop for 8kn. The company
that operates Split‘s buses is called Promet Split, so
make sure the kiosk has that name on it before trying
to buy a ticket. If you‘re trying to beat the system and
riding without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you
most certainly will be, buddy!) is 50kn. Split is covered
by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere
in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from
which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport
and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska‘s
ticket office operates from 06:00 to 20:00 on weekdays,
06:00 to 12:00 on Saturdays and is closed on Sunday.
To contact the Sukoišanska station, dial (+385-21) 48
06 56. For general information regarding bus services,
call (+385-21) 40 79 99.
Promet Split E-1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-
21) 40 78 88, promet@promet-split.hr, www.
promet-split.hr.
Taxi
The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 970. The
starting fee for a taxi trip is 20kn, with a 10kn fee added
per kilometre and 2.5 - 10kn added per each piece of
luggage. There is no additional charge for traveling at
night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and
Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station
and near the Riva.
Trains
Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9,
tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.
hznet.hr. The main train station is situated next to the
bus station and doesn‘t offer many possibilities to travel
around, save for frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you
can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to
Zagreb takes about eight hours, which in the summer can
be made a lot less tiresome by the weekend disco train, on
which passengers can enjoy the trip with dancing and music.
If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at
22:50 or a night train from Split at 21:37, there‘s one more
really handy service offered at the train station. If you have
a car or motorbike and don‘t feel like driving at night, you
can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your
destination for a fee of 186.30 - 266.30kn, plus the price
of a passenger ticket.
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gettiNg aRouNd
Buses
Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,
Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/
(+385-21) 32 91 80, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.
The main bus station isn‘t the most impressive building in
town, but it is well organized and conveniently located next
to the ferry port and train station, which are all about ten
minutes‘ walk to the old town. If you‘re planning a return trip
to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators
and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to
travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also,
if you happen to be traveling to the northern part of Croatia,
check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy,
car-sickness-inducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads,
which can affect the length of your trip. Information about
prices and departure/arrival times is available 24 hours at
the information desk. The international ticket office is open
06:00 - 21:30.
Summer 2011
33

34 gettiNg aRouNd
If you wish to travel to the Croatian capital Zagreb, the bus
ride via freeway is 5 hours approximately. The first ride starts
at 1:00am with buses leaving every hour thereafter. The last
bus leaves at 23:59.
For those wishing to visit the Plitvice National Park there
are four bus lines from Split. The first leaves at 08:30 and is
followed by another at 12:00, 20:15 and 22:45.
Dubrovnik is at the very south of Croatia and is approximately
5 hours from Split by bus. The first bus leaves at 1:30 and
the last at 17:15.
Makarska is almost half way to Dubrovnik and the first bus
line towards this beautiful coastal town leaves at 1:30 with
the last at 22:30. Bus lines leave almost every hour and the
trip takes about 1 hour.
The first bus to Rijeka leaves at 05:00 and the trip takes
about 7 hours, whilst the last bus leaves from Split to
Rijeka at 21:30. There are eight bus lines towards Rijeka
every day.
Car rental
ABC I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 23 64/
(+385-) 099 342 30 01, prizmic@st.t-com.hr, www.
rentacar-abc.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Budget I-3/J-3, Obala Ante Trumbića 18, tel. (+385-
21) 32 26 89, split.td@budget.hr, www.budget.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
Dollar&Thrifty H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel. (+385-
21) 39 90 00/(+385-21) 39 88 00, subrosa@subrosa.
hr, www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00
- 12:00. A
Emaco E-2/3/F-2, Matice Hrvatske 14 (Bussines
center Koteks), tel. (+385-21) 53 95 06/(+385-1) 098
25 51 88, emaco@emaco.hr, www.emaco.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. A
Europcar Cesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić
(Zračna luka Split - Kaštela), tel. (+385-21) 89 50 19/
(+385-) 098 23 10 81, rentacar-st@uniline.hr, www.
europcar.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A
Hertz C-3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 04
55/(+385-) 091 360 45 51, split.dt@hertz.hr, www.
hetz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. A
Rent A Smart , tel. (+385-1) 487 61 72, info@
rentasmart.hr, www.rentasmart.hr. Free info 0800 25
25 25 Q A
Uni Rent C-3, Šperun 2, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 97, split@
uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Parking
First and foremost, pay heed to the solemn pleas of our editor
and please, please, please respect the parking laws of Split
(and any other city you might be visiting). Now that we‘ve
sufficiently guilt-tripped you into behaving yourself, we can
continue. There are four parking zones. The price is 3kn/hr
in all zones, the only difference is in the times when parking
is charged. In the Zone 1 parking is payable 06:30 - 21:30,
and in Zones 2, 3 and 4 07:00 - 19:00. You can also pay
using your mobile for the same price of 3kn/h. However, be
aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket
when you‘re supposed to have one you might catch a fine of
45kn (Zone 1), or 36kn for all other zones.
Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking
in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour
from 6 to 10 kn depending on your proximity to the centre. So,
if you‘re parking near the Riva, you can bet on the maximum
10kn fee. Most of the lots operate around the clock.
SMS Parking
There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes
located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red -
8211), zone 2 (blue - 8212), zone 3 (green - 8213) and
zone 4 (yellow - 8214). You get a ticket at the box under
the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by
sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps)
to the number shown on the box (remember to include
the international dialing code if you‘re using a foreign
mobile). A few minutes before your hour of paid parking
runs out, you‘ll get a message to remind you to refresh
your lease of the space or move your car.
Promet Split D-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48
10 97, parking@promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.
Airport
Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)
Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-
21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr,
www.split-airport.hr. The airport is relatively
small but serves a fair number of domestic and European
cities. If you‘re not able to fly to your destination from Split,
there are daily flights to Zagreb, which is a bit more connected
to the outside world. The airport can be reached by hopping
on bus number 37 (bound for Trogir) from Sukoišanska. The
bus runs every 20 minutes on weekdays and every 30 minutes
on weekends. If you happen to have the distinction of being a
Croatia Airlines passenger, you can take the airport bus that
waits at the beginning of the Riva, an hour and a half before
Croatia Airlines flights. If you didn‘t manage to blow all your
kunas on coffees on the Riva, you can exhange them in the
offices run by Splitska banka or at the post office, both of which
are located in the main hall of the airport.
And if you did manage to blow all your kunas on shopping,
enquire at the information desk where you can confirm your
tax-free form, as the office is not visually marked.
Airline offices
Aeroplan D-3, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. (+385-21)
33 84 45/(+385-21) 33 84 46, aeroplan@st.t-com.hr.
Malev, Adria Airways and Germanwings agent. Office at the
airport, tel. 79 62 93. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. A
Croatia Airlines D-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog
preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) 36 29 97, sputo@
croatiaairlines.hr, www.croatiaairlines.com. There is
also an office at the airport, tel. 021 20 33 05. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
TUI Generalturist I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+385-21)
34 51 83/(+385-21) 34 55 91, psplit@generalturist.
com, www.generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Airport bus
If you‘re flying with Croatia Airlines you can check the bus
timetable at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or on (+385-21) 20
31 19. At the moment the bus stop is on the corner of the
Riva (the seafront) and the road which leads to the port,
coach and railway stations. However, the bus stop is due to
be relocated to a spot right by the coach station.
So it‘s wise to check with the airport in advance. The trip
costs 30kn for a single ticket, and kids under 6 go for free.
Otherwise, take bus number 37 for Trogir from Sukoišanska
bus station; tickets cost 16kn one way, leaving every 20
minutes.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

36 gettiNg aRouNd
Brač Airport
Brač Airport Veško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21)
55 97 01/(+385-21) 55 97 11, info@airport-brac.hr,
www.airport-brac.hr. Situated 14km away from Bol and
30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Brač,
this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year
round, with charter flights organized only during the summer.
The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100
passengers or fewer. Q June 1 -30 Open 08:00 - 16:00,
Sat 08:00 - 18:30. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 18:00,
Sat 08:00 - 20:00.
Bike rental
Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81
41, info@travel49.com, www.travel49.com. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00.
Charter
BavAdria Yachting Šetalište kralja Tomislava bb,
Kaštel Gomilica, tel. (+385-21) 20 40 20/(+385-) 098
32 16 57, bavadria@bavadria.com, www.bavadria.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Euromarine C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 31
01/(+385-) 098 29 98 77, split@euromarine.hr, www.
euromarine.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.
Sun by request.
Gringo nautica E-3, Cvjetna 1, Marina Zenta, tel.
(+385-21) 38 98 00/(+385-) 098 940 37 77, gringo.
nautica@gmail.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
Nautika centar Nava C-3, Uvala Baluni 1, tel. (+385-
21) 40 77 00/(+385-21) 40 77 02, charter@navaboats.
com, www.navaboats.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sun
by request.
Orvas Yachting C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 32
20 15/(+385-21) 098 45 22 25, orvas-yachting@orvas.
hr, www.orvas-yachting.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat
08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Ultra C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 78/
(+385-) 098 29 46 35, booking@ultra-sailing.hr, www.
ultra-sailing.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 -
14:00.
Yachting Plus F-1, Mostarska 99, tel. (+385-21) 32 13
00/(+385-) 095 912 74 12, info@yachtingplus.hr, www.
yachtingplus.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Ferries
Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as
the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like
Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. We‘ve expounded much on the
convenient location of the ferry port and its proximity to the
bus and train stations, but if you still don‘t know where it is,
making your way there has been simplified by those handy
signs all around town pointing the way. On the street leading
up to the main port building, there are Jadrolinija kiosks
that sell tickets for the ferries that operate to domestic
destinations and Splittours kiosk that sells ticket for Split
Ancona line. Inside the main port building, the Jadrolinija and
Snav offices sell tickets for international travel. The opening
hours of each office change according to season, but during
peak season, the kiosks for local travel close at around 20:00
and the main office closes at midnight.
For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island
you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something
like this: 33 - 68kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars.
Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 -
62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we
also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute
little life vest.
The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour
and the trip to Vis takes about three and a half hours. On
all ferries, you‘ll find bars where you can buy some snacks
and a drink or two. One final, important note is that it‘s not
possible to reserve tickets for local lines ahead of time.
You can buy them at any time and they are valid for any line
operating that day; but to be sure your car will be placed on
your desired ferry, you should be waiting with your car about
90 minutes before the ferry departs. After you buy your
ticket, the kindly, multi-lingual personnel will explain to you
from which dock the ferry leaves.
Jadrolinija D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83
33, ag.split@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. This is the
main company in Croatia that caters for public transportation
towards the islands. QOpen 04:30 - 24:00.
Kapetan Luka, Krilo Poljička cesta 28, Krilo Jesenice,
tel. (+385-21) 87 28 77/(+385-) 091 205 98 86, luka.
tomic@st.t-com.hr, www.krilo.hr. Tickets are available in
Jadrolinija agency.
MSC Krstarenja D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32
22 52, split@msckrstarenja.com, www.msckrstarenja.
com. SNAV agent. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel.
(+385-21) 35 25 33, booking@splitours.hr, www.
splittours.hr. Blue Line International (Split - Ancona line)
agent. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva). Q Open 07:30 -
20:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:00, Sun 15:00 - 20:30. June - October
Open 07:30 - 20:30.
Harbormaster‘s office
Lučka kapetanija (Harbormaster‘s office) I-3,
Obala Lazareta 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 55 00/(+385-21)
36 24 36.
Marinas
ACI Marina C-3, Uvala Baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 85
99/(+385-21) 39 85 58, 39 85 49, m.split@aci-club.hr,
www.aci-club.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00.
July - August 31 Open 07:30 - 21:30.
Petrol station for boats
INA-Obala H-3, Branimirova obala bb, tel. (+385-) 091
497 12 45, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. A
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Petrol stations (0-24)
INA-Pojišan D/K-3, Pojišanska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 4971
246, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
INA-Visoka G/2-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. (+385-) 091
497 12 50, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
Lukoil - Sirobuja G/2-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. (+385-
21) 31 67 60, www.lukoil.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
OMV-Istrabenz Magistrala bb, Kaštel Sućurac, tel.
(+385-21) 26 08 19, www.omv.hr. QOpen 00:00 -
24:00. A
Port Authority
Lučka uprava (Split Port Authority) D-3, Gat Sv.Duje
1, tel. (+385-21) 33 82 62, lucka-uprava-split@st.t-com.
hr, www.portsplit.com. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Towed away
As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car
previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have
down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn‘t heed
our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride
has been towed away by what we refer to in English as the,
ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the
car impound at Pujanke (F-2), so you‘ll need to shell out 340kn
to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are accepted and the office
is open around the clock. Tel. (+385-21) 37 68 48.
Travel agencies
Atlas D-3, Bosanska 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 30 55, split@
atlas.hr, www.atlas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A
split.inyourpocket.com
gettiNg aRouNd
F-tours putovanja J/2-3, Hrvojeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34
48 42, desk@f-tours.hr, www.f-tours.hr. QOpen 08:30 -
18:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Galileo J-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. (+385-21) 54 22
33, info@galileo.hr, www.galileo.hr. QOpen 08:00 -
18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 35
25 33, booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Q
Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:00, Sun 07:30 - 12:00,
15:00 - 20:30. A
Tarantela J-1, Domovinskog rata 27a, tel. (+385-21)
33 24 60/(+385-21) 33 24 59, tarantela@st.t-com.hr,
www.tarantela.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 -
12:00. Closed Sun. A
TUI Generalturist I/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+385-
21) 34 51 83/(+385-21) 34 54 40, psplit@generalturist.
com, www.generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Road help
HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, , tel. (+385-21)
1987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and
towing service is available 24 hours a day.
For road information 24 hours a day dial 062 77 77 77;
during summer you can hear it on the radio in English,
Italian and German.
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011
37

Brela Tourist board
Adventure sports
Adventure Dalmatia D-3, Matije Gupca 26, tel. (+385-
21) 54 06 42/(+385-) 091 501 29 13, 091 526 38 13,
www.adventuredalmatia.com. Rafting on the River Cetina,
sea kayaking, canyoning.
Dalmatia Rafting D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 8a, tel.
(+385-21) 32 16 98/(+385-) 098 169 77 49, cetina@
dalmatiarafting.com, www.dalmatiarafting.com. Rafting,
canoeing, kayaking, free climbing and paintball. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00.
Falco Tours D/E-3, Žrnovnička 11, tel. (+385-21) 54
86 46/(+385-) 091 786 72 20, info@falco-tours.com,
www.falco-tours.com. Call for arrangements.
Radmanove Mlinice Poljički trg 2, Omiš, tel. (+385-
21) 86 22 38/(+385-) 098 81 36 80, info@radmanovemlinice.hr,
www.radmanove-mlinice.hr. Rafting and
canoeing. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
SPK Marulianus D-2, Tončićeva 1/2, tel. (+385-) 091
529 59 90, info@marulianus.hr, www.marulianus.hr.
Sport climbing club. Q Working hours by arrangement.
Flip
Aero club Split C-2, Teslina 27, tel. (+385-21) 38 50
28/(+385-) 091 512 23 36, miljenko.jelic@st.t-com.
hr, www.aksplit.hr.
Paragliding
Alternatura Hrvatskih mučenika 2, Komiža, Vis, tel.
(+385-21) 71 72 39/(+385-) 091 250 38 09, 091 520
50 80, alternatura@alternatura.hr, www.alternatura.hr.
Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. A
split.inyourpocket.com
leisuRe
Sailing
Ultra C-3, Uvala baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 78/
(+385-21) 39 89 80, booking@ultra-sailing.hr, www.
ultra-sailing.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Scuba diving
Akvatorij D-1, Put Supavla 21/III, tel. (+385-21) 45
95 45/(+385-) 091 313 21 20, 091 313 21 21, info@
akvatorij.hr, www.akvatorij.hr. Diving school only, no tourist
excursions. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tennis
TK Dalmacijacement Marka Marulića 24, Solin, tel.
(+385-21) 21 24 42. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 23:00.
day time 50kn/h, night time 60kn/h.
TK Split E-3, Put Firula 18, tel. (+385-21) 38 95 76,
www.tk-split.hr. Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:30,
Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. daytime 50kn/h,
night 75kn/h.
Windsurfing
7 Bofora D-2, Kavanjinova 14, tel. (+385-21) 48
04 28/(+385-) 091 516 62 01, info@7bofora.com,
www.7bofora.com. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 -
14:00. Closed Sun. A
Big Blue Podan glavice 2, Bol, Brač, tel. (+385-21) 63
56 14, tomaz@big-blue-sport.hr, www.big-blue-sport.
hr. Windsurfing, diving, sea-kayaking, mountain biking and
beachvolley. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Spa & Beauty
Filomena Spa & Lifestyle Club F-3, Put Radoševca
39, tel. (+385-21) 47 27 77, info@filomena.hr, www.
filomena.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
PAFGW
Mira Salon & Day Spa Gospinica 14, tel. (+385-21)
38 98 16, info@miradayspa.com, www.miradayspa.
com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. A
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011
39

40 shoppiNg
Shopping centres & Malls
City Center One F-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-
21) 51 01 30, info-st@citycenterone.com, www.
citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Joker Centre D-2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39
69 11. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Antiques
Antique‘s & Art‘s D-3, Plinarska 21, tel. (+385-) 098
917 63 68. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. N
Zlatna vrata J-2, Papalićeva ulica 4, tel. (+385-21) 36
01 22/(+385-) 098 51 62 78. Q Open 09:00 - 12:30,
17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. N
Art Galleries
Botteri J-1, Kliška 15, tel. (+385-21) 34 81 88, www.
botteri.net. Q Open 09:00 - 12:30, 16:30 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.
Galerija Freska H-1, Plinarska 49, tel. (+385-21) 39 49
18, imandaria@yahoo.com, www.galerija-freska.com.
Q Open 09:00 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Jaman I-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/(+385-)
098 32 27 19, danijel.jaman@st.t-com.hr, www.jamanart.com.
Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Morić J-1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51 31/(+385-)
091 515 73 57, galerija-moric@st.t-com.hr. Q Open
08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sun. A
Studio Naranča J-2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. (+385-
21) 34 41 18, pavo.studionaranca@gmail.com. Local
graphic artist Pavo Majić and his wife have been at it for
years - exhibiting and selling their artwork, hosting exhibits
by Croatian and international artists and participating in the
local art scene. Stop by their small, but impressive, gallery and
show them some love QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A
Kravata - Necktie
For any of you that are thinking about finding the slightest
hint of irony in the idea that an item of clothing that almost
single-handedly represents an uptight, constricted
lifestyle should come from passionate Mediterranean
climes, remember one thing – the Croats are kings and
queens of fashion! ‘Twas way back in 1635, amongst
the large numbers of soldiers rolling into Paris to fight
against the nasty protestants in The Thirty Years War
were Croatian mercenaries from the coastal regions.
They wore coloured scarves around their necks, which
the French military thought a wonderful idea. They were
so much easier to keep clean than the lace frills that were
the norm in Gaul. Hence the new fashion was taken up
with enthusiasm and rapidly spread to the rest of Europe
– the word for the original wearers: Hrvat transforming on
the non-Slavic tongue to Cravat. For those of you that do
not want to carry around a painful reminder of that which
awaits at the end of your holidays, they make them in nice
bright styles also.
Split
telephone code is +385-21
Vegeta - Food Seasoning
This is basically a food seasoning. It is made from
vegetables, spices and salt and therefore has the added
bonus of being vegetarian – oh you healthy beast! And
don’t worry; MSG is in everything these days anyway,
as it is in this Croatian stuff and indeed most of Central
Europe. Remember how we raved about the standard
of the food in this country? Well, now you have joined
us in this appreciation we can reveal the secret to you –
and that secret is Vegeta. When you find that your pasta
dish is unreasonably rich and salty – well then you know
that the commis chef is in need of extra training for his
Vegeta shake.
English books & newspapers
Algoritam I-2, Bajamontijeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 80
30, split@algoritam.hr, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. A
Profil Superstore I-2, Šubićeva 7, tel. (+385-21) 33
26 75/(+385-21) 33 26 74, www.profil-international.
hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. A
VBZ I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 80, www.
vbz.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. A
Delicatessen
Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel.
(+385-21) 31 48 00, edicoposao@yahoo.com, www.
vinoteka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30.
Closed Sun. A
Judita - gourmet & wine shop J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel.
(+385-21) 21 02 50, info@stella-croatica.hr, www.
stella-croatica.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. A
Kraš I-2, Narodni trg 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 61 38, www.
kras.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. A
Nadalina J-2, Dioklecijanova 6. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Natura I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 24.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Oleoteka Uje J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27
19, info@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
09:00 - 17:00. July 15 - August 15 Open 09:00 - 23:00. A
Split Tea House I-2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21)
33 23 58, info@kucacaja-split.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30,
Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A
Vinoteka Bouquet C-3, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel.
(+385-21) 34 80 31, www.vinoteka.hr. Q Open 08:30 -
12:30, 17:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Vinoteka Viola D-3/K-3, Bijankinijeva 8, tel. (+385-
21) 32 30 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Souvenirs
Cro fan shop - Hajduk I-2, Trogirska 10, tel. (+385-21)
34 30 96, www.cro-fan-shop.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A
Spalato J-2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. (+385-21) 49 09
30/(+385-) 091 456 95 45, lidija.hodzic2@gmail.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
Think Pink I-2, Kružićeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 61,
senka.jurisic@gmail.com. Also at (D-3) Zadarska 8. Open
09:00 - 23:00. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
www.inyourpocket.com
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com

42 diRectoRy
Banks & Exchanges
Hypo Alpe Adria Bank E/F-3, Poljička cesta 39, tel.
(+385-21) 43 98 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Podravska banka D-2, Ulica slobode 33, tel. (+385-)
062 65 56 30/(+385-) 060 20 20 20, kc-split@poba.hr,
www.poba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Privredna banka D-2, Ulica slobode 7, tel. (+385-21)
42 10 07/(+385-) 0800 36 53 65, www.pbz.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Splitska banka - Societe Generale Group F-3,
Ruđera Boškovića 16, tel. (+385-21) 30 43 42/(+385-)
0800 21 00 21, www.splitskabanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Zagrebačka banka D-2, Gundulićeva 26/A, tel.
(+385-21) 35 23 06/(+385-21) 35 22 22, www.zaba.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Business connections
Croatian Chamber of Economy - Split Chamber
(Županijska komora Split) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 4,
tel. (+385-21) 32 11 00, hgkst@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr.
QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Croatian Chamber of trades and crafts - Split
Dalmatia County (Obrtnička komora Splitskodalmatinske
županije) F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 28-30,
tel. (+385-21) 47 01 14, ok.split@hok.hr, www.hok.hr.
QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Foreign representations
Chile (Consulate) E-1, Boktuljin put bb, tel. (+385-21)
35 24 01, fax (+385-21) 36 71 18, jbuljubasic@sem.hr.
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Denmark (Consulate) B-3, Supilova 10, tel. (+385-21)
35 84 88/(+385-) 091 358 48 88, nenad.muskatelo1@st.tcom.hr.
Please make an appointment before visiting. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Finland (Consulate) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel. (+385-)
091 339 12 12, fax (+385-21) 34 52 75, milan.senjanovic@
vip.hr, www.finland.hr. Please arrange an appointment.
Germany (Consulate) I-1, Svačićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 40
93 47, fax (+385-21) 48 64 01, split@hk-diplo.de, www.
zagreb.diplo.de. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Hungary (Consulate) D-2, Gundulićeva 26A, tel. (+385-
21) 48 00 19/(+385-21) 38 02 03, hungconsulate.st@
email.t-com.hr, www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/zagreb. QOpen
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Italy (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog
preporoda 10/III, tel. (+385-21) 34 81 55/(+385-21) 34
45 77, fax (+385-21) 36 12 68, consolato.spalato@esteri.
it, www.consspalato.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, Thu
09:00 - 12:00, 15:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Slovenia (Consulate) D-2, Istarska 9, tel. (+385-21)
38 92 24, fax (+385-21) 38 92 23, generalni.konzulat.
rep.slovenije@st.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:30 - 12:30. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Sweden (Consulate) K-1/2, Držićeva 8, tel. (+385-21)
33 82 34, fax (+385-21) 31 45 30. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
The Netherlands (Consulate) D-2, Mažuranićevo
šetalište 1, tel./fax (+385-21) 31 23 99, silvanakondic@
net.hr, www.netherlandsembassy.hr. For the rest of the
week by prior arrangement over the phone. QOpen 11:00
- 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
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UK (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog
preporoda 10/III, tel. (+385-21) 34 60 07, fax (+385-
21) 36 29 05, british-consulat-st@st.t-com.hr, www.
ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk. Q Open 07:30 - 15:30, Fri
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Real estate
Benelli nekretnine D-2/E-2, Dubrovačka 3a, tel.
(+385-21) 53 68 23/(+385-) 099 200 01 15, info@
benelliestates.com, www.benelliestates.com. QOpen
08:30 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Consiliator nekretnine J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 10,
tel. (+385-21) 36 02 60/(+385-) 091 198 03 03,
consiliator@consiliator.hr, www.consiliator.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Trgostan J-2/K-1, Tolstojeva 32, tel. (+385-21) 34
31 05, 36 21 40/(+385-) 091 201 71 60, 098 89 17
69, trgostan@trgostan.hr, www.trgostan.hr. QOpen
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Translators & Interpretors
Lingua-Soft D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 9, tel. (+385-
21) 48 74 44, ls-split@lingua-soft.hr, www.lingua-soft.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Hospital
Bolnica Križine F-3, Šoltanska 1, tel. (+385-21) 55
71 11.
Klinički Bolnički Centar (Firule) E-3, Spinčićeva 1,
tel. (+385-21) 55 61 11.
Dry cleaners & Laundries
Self Service Laundrette H-2, Šperun 1, tel. (+385-21)
31 58 88. Self service: 25kn - laundering, 20kn - drying and
5kn - washing powder. 75kn per machine for leaving your
clothes for them to do the job for you (washing, drying but
not ironing). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
24-hour pharmacies
Lučac E-3, Pupačićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 53 31 88,
ljekarnasplit@ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
Prima Pharme G-2, Kralja Stjepana Držislava 22
(Super Konzum), tel. (+385-21) 32 55 04, sine@
primapharme.hr, www.primapharme.hr. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. A
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Castles of Split Dalmatia County
Visitors to the Split region shouldn‘t just restrict themselves
to the beach. Not only is the Dalmatian hinterland one of the
most dramatically beautiful parts of Croatia, it also plays host
to a multitude of crumbling fortresses and hilltop castles.
Given the region‘s turbulent history - including centuries of
warfare between Croats, Ottoman Turks and Venetians - it‘s
no surprise that brooding battle-scarred ruins form such a
prominent part of the local landscape.
One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily
accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted
precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There‘s an
excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects
Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an
outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the
road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress
and soak in the great views in every direction.There is a café
right below the fortress.
Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first
mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th
century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area
but never succeeding in taking the fortress.The Ottoman
Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking
Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally
evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you
will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying
the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow
mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland.
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Between Split and Trogir, 20km to the west, lies a sequence
of seven small towns known collectively as “Kaštela“
(Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive
along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs
directing you to them (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Sućurac,
Kaštel Kambelovac, etc.). Most were constructed in the
16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or
the Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out
their interesting architectural features. All are accessible by
car. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Trogir, an island
town, has its own castle fortress, too, right on the waterfront.
Kamerlengo Citadel was built in the 15th century and has
been well restored. Trogir‘s Venetian heritage (the Venetians
held sway there for three and a half centuries starting in
1420) is clearly evident from the town‘s lovely architecture.
If you go 21km in the opposite direction (southwest) on route
8 from Split you will reach Omiš, which is located at the
mouth of the Cetina River. There are the ruins of two castle/
fortresses above the town that have spectacular views.The
lower of the two, Mirabela, is accessible by about 300 steps
from Šubić Street in the centre of town. There is a gate about
a quarter of the way up that is sometimes inexplicably locked.
Ask at the town‘s tourist office first and they‘ll probably send
someone to unlock it. From the top of Mirabela‘s tower keep
there‘s a sweeping view of Omiš, the river, the sea, and the
steep sided mountains that form the sides of the canyon. It‘s
believed that the Kačić family, feudal lords of Omiš during the
12th and 13th centuries, built Mirabela in the early 1200s.
Pirates used Mirabela as their lair during medieval times. The
Venetians acquired Omiš in 1444 and over time expanded
and refortified the redoubt.
Fitness buffs can be rewarded with an even more panoramic
view by hiking from the center of Omiš to Starigrad (also
called “Fortica”), a fortress/castle about 500m above the
town. The hike takes about two hours on a marked trail,
which begins on the road to the village of Borak. The turn off
to Borak is on the south edge of the Omiš town center. You
can also drive part of the way up to Starigrad, making sure
to go straight (don‘t turn right) when you reach the fork in the
road. From that point it is a 45 minutes climb. Fortica was
built by another Croatian noble family, the Nelipićs, probably
in the 14th century. It was one of a series of coastal forts
expanded by the Venetians during their centuries-long
struggle against the Turks. Gun bastions and embrasures
are still clearly visible in the walls, the perfect spot for
imagining that you are a defender on the battlements! There
are plenty of good hotels and eateries in Omiš, which is a
major tourist center. It‘s a shame that most visitors never
venture beyond the beach.
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From Omiš take the road on the south side of the Cetina
River 18km to reach Zadvarje. There is one good view after
another as this road winds through the canyon. There is a
fortress with the same name just beyond the water treatment
plant above Zadvarje. Unfortuately power lines above the ruin
somewhat mar the atmosphere, but it‘s still worth checking
out Zadvarje‘s massive walls. Built by the Venetians between
1478 and 1482, Zadvarje was captured and refortified by
the Turks in 1502. There is a myth that the ghost of Murat,
the Zadvarje Turkish bey who was bloodied by a local girl he
assaulted, roams the castle walls during full moon.
Our next stop on the county castle tour is Imotski, 38km
from Zadvarje by routes 39 and 60. Imotski is remote into the
Dalmatian hinterland, a place where locals think nothing of
stopping their car in the middle of street in town to chat with
their friends, not worrying about a trifling traffic jam that might
develop. Another distinctive feature of this hilltop town is its
two sinkhole lakes, the Blue Lake and the Red Lake. Sheer
cliffs tower 150m above the Blue Lake, which is just above
the Imotski town center. It takes about 10 minutes to climb
up the stone steps to Topana Castle, perched at the top of
the cliffs.There is a great view of the coastal mountains from
the ramparts of the castle, the location of which was probably
first used for defensive purposes by the Romans.
Topana is first mentioned in written records around 950.
From 1322 the castle fortress was under the ownership of
several Croatian-Bosnian noble families.The Turks conquered
Imotski in 1493, transforming it into an important seat of
local government and refortifying the castle. It wasn‘t until
1717 that the Venetians pushed the Turks out, but Imotski
continued to mark the border with the Ottoman Turkish
Empire. Battles continued for another decade, resulting in
substantial damage to the castle. It was reconstructed in
the early 19th century, by which time it no longer served a
military purpose. There are several hotels and restaurants
in Imotski.
On the way from Zadvarje bonafide castle fanatics might want
to follow highway 62 to the hilltop town of Vrgorac, which is
very near to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. There is
a nicely restored castle above the town centre, accessible
via an unusually well marked trail in about 15 - 20 minutes.
There‘s a wonderful view in every direction from the castle.
Only 10km north and west of Imotski on a secondary (but
paved) road is the village of Donji Proložac. Badnjevice
Castle/fortress is spectacularly situated on a rocky peak
above the village. First mentioned in written records from
the 12th century, it‘s hard to imagine how it could have
been built there, but it certainly commands a good view of
the surrounding region. Only the hardiest of climbers should
attempt to reach this ruin. There are no marked trails, and
probably the best alternative would be to enlist the help of
a local to guide you up the steep, rocky slope.
About 80km north and west from Imotski via route 60 and
then a turn off from route 220 is the small village of Čačvina.
It‘s easy to spot the castle ruin and a church at the top of a
hill above the village. It‘s an easy, 10 minutes ascent to the
castle. There are spectacular views in every direction from
Čačvina, which sits at an elevation of 707m. The Nelipčić
family built Čačvina in 1371.
The Turks overan this fortress in the mid 16th century, and
it was not until about 150 years later that the Venetians
and Croats evicted them. In ancient and medieval times
Čačvina sat at the crossroads of major trading routes, but
today it is very much off the beaten track. Visitors may not
be able to get an espresso there, but Čačvina‘s remoteness
is one of its charms.
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The largest town of the Split Dalmatia County hinterland
is Sinj, which is only 20km northwest of Čačvina or 34km
north of Split via a well marked road. The castle fortress
above Sinj is worth a look. You can drive there. Like the rest
of Dalmatia, Sinj has had a very turbulent history. During
the century before and for several centuries after the birth
of Christ the Romans fought with several tribes in the area.
Sinj‘s fortifications are first found in written records in about
the year 950. It‘s believed the exsiting fortress was built
in the 14th century. The Turks captured Sinj in 1536 and
refortified the castle. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in
1686, and the following year a famous image of the Madonna
known as the Lady of Sinj (“Sinjska Gospa”) was returned
to Sinj. In August 1715 the Turks attempted to retake the
Sinj fortress. Although outnumbered, the inhabitants of Sinj
defeated the Turks after a week-long battle. The defendents
were convinced that the presence of the Madonna painting
help them to thwart their more powerful adversaries. The
Feast of the Assumption (Velika Gospa; August 15) is,
therefore, especially significant for the residents of Sinj,
which has several hotels and many restaurants.
About 15km northwest of Sinj lies the village and fortress
of Potravlje (also known as “Potravnik” or “Travnik”). It
commands a stupendous view of coastal mountains to the
west, high peaks in Bosnia and the valley occupied by 30km
long Lake Peručko to the north. To reach Potravlje you take
Route 1 north from Sinj. After about 10km you turn west
(left) on a paved road; there is a sign pointing the way to
Satrić. After 5.3km you will see a pink house on the right
and on the left a line of cypress trees. Turn left at that point
and go about 500m, where you can park in the middle of the
village and walk up the hill to the castle ruins. There is no
discernable trail but it is not too difficult to bushwack through
the low scrub brush and grass. Like Čačvina, Potravlje is a
rustic but lovely spot.
Potravnik was probably constructed by the Nelipčić dukes
in the 14th century. It is first mentioned in written records
in 1372. The Turks attacked the fortress in 1522 and at
first were not successful in taking it. Only after plugging
the sources for the castle‘s water wells, thereby cutting
off the defendents‘ water supply, were they able to capture
it. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in the late 17th
century. Another 22km along route 1 is the town of Vrlika.
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46 split dalmatia couNty
Prozor castle sits prominently above the town, which is at
the opposite end of Lake Peručko from Potravlje. Partially
restored, Prozor has an equally spectacular view of the lake
and mountains to the east and west. To reach the castle go
from the town church 1.5km up the road towards Maovica and
Drniš. There is a dirt road passable with four wheel drive or a
20 - 25 minute walk up a not very steep hill to the castle.
The Hrvatinić family built Prozor Castle in the early 1400s. As
with other towns in the this area, the Ottoman Turks captured
the fortress in 1523 and held it until the Venetians expelled
them nearly 200 years later. The town witnessed an invasion
much more recently as well. During the Balkan Wars of the
early 1990s Vrlika was held by the so-called Republic of Serb
Krajina for four years. During Operation Storm the Croatian
Army pushed the Serbs out in August 1995.
The large Adriatic islands of Brač, Hvar and Vis also lie within
Split Dalmatia County, and there is no shortage of alluring
castles in those places, either. A restored fortress overlooks
Hvar Town and provides a nice view of the offshore string of
Pakleni Islands. You can drive up to the fortress or climb up in
a few minutes from the town center. There is an interesting
tower made of gigantic stone blocks (shown as “Tor” on
some maps) above the town of Jelsa. One marvels about
how those huge blocks could have been raised to such a
height and pointed so neatly so many centuries ago. The
tower is accessible in about 20 - 30 minutes via a marked
trail ascending from a dirt road that runs from the village
of Humac (on route 116) to the tunnel entrance. From the
tower there is a breathtaking view of Brač Island to the
north. A fortress on the same ridge about a kilometre to
the east also is clearly visible. If you have binoculars you
may be able to spot the naturist beaches on Jerolim and
Stipanska islands off the coast. Brač, too, has a number
of castles and fortresses in its coastal villages and interior.
For details please see the article about Brač activities in this
issue of In Your Pocket.
Islands
Šolta
Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to
have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis
courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from
Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special
places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life
has been largely maintained to the present day. This means
that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys
are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the
eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually
kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life
is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which
is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal
environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island,
not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish.
The island‘s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning
and returning with the day‘s catch, which is then prepared
for the evening‘s meal and accompanied by some excellent
homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to
sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does
not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little
adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as
well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play
perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing,
and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive
groves and vineyards that supply the island‘s other principal
products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature
and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a
short stay. Either way, there‘s something for everyone.
Brač
Brač, the Croatian Adriatic‘s third largest island, offers
spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain
of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split,
retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town,
Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija
car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on
the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which
is on the northwest.
If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia‘s most
famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It‘s a point jutting
out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the
Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the
summer, especially with younger people. It‘s also a popular
spot for windsurfing. If you‘d prefer a less frenetic bathing
experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay,
which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač‘s north
side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from
there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the
beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach,
you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located
on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač.
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Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia
are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture
and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the
Middle Ages. Škrip‘s Museum of Brač contains many
ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including
a relief of Hercules.
Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you
could extend your activities from what‘s listed above to the
following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican
monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its museum
has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well
as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child dating
from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit,
especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca
(Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the
Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about
half way between the sea and the summit of Brač‘s highest
peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide.
You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins
near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down
from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank
of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that
track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on
the Supetar to Bol road. If you don‘t have an SUV you run the
risk of ruining your vehicle‘s suspension. Both trails are well
marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours
for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be
rewarded with great views plus Blaca‘s ascetic architecture
and splendid isolation.
Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of
Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island,
2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive
there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off
on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća.
The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving
and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol
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that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It‘s easy to
spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the
Croatian Adriatic.
If you are going to be on Brač for a week there‘s much
more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike
can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive
coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their
names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan,
Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the
island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the north
side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All of them have
a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow,
cobblestone alleys winding up from the seafront; nearly all
stone buildings with green shutters; medieval fortress towers
built for defense against pirates and the Turks; and centuries
old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there
are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants from which to
soak them up. Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover
a significant portion of Brač, and there are many small-scale
olive oil producers. You will see lots of signs advertising fresh,
extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for
sale. There are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking;
check with a travel bureau about where that is possible.
Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It‘s
claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction
of the American White House. And of course, it was used
in the building of many local houses. You will see several
quarries as you drive about the island, and they are
accessible - a tort lawyer‘s dream.
There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva
(Dragon) and Kopačina. They‘re located between Supetar
and Donji Humac.
Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you
wouldn‘t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend
many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach,
soaking up the scenery.
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Hvar
You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to
Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to
Jelsa and Hvar city. If you‘re a little south of Split, you can still
reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of
Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar.
If you‘re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along
the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes
a stop in Hvar city. See getting around section.
Things to see and do:
Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands
in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and
on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of
small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are
only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.
Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni
islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due
to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are
protected.
The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name
from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the
bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western
side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and
small towns.
Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with
medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built
by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls,
located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view
of below. The prison dungeon inside the Španjol Fortress is
quite impressive and if you take a peek below, it‘s easy to
imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the
prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the
despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar,
yo u‘ l l e n c o u n te r
historical charm with
the Renaissance St
Stephen‘s Cathedral
(16-17th century)
s t y l e d b y l o c a l
masters Karlić and
Pomenić and the
centre of the old part
of town has a 15th
century form. On the
northern slope above
the square are the
partially preserved
inner city walls of the
noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery
is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule),
dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of
town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance
summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner
between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of
Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary
for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art
collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper.
Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar
also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of
civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331.
Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar
galley. On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from
1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned
by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery
in Hvar is well known for it‘s craftsmanship of unique lace
made from agave fibres.
Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one
of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within
Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender,
Adriatic photo service
heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant
experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar
presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of
lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you
the opportunity for a thorough exploration.
Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on
a route which passes alongside the island and today‘s ferry
port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in
Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here
is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early
Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).
Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first
hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points
of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum.
It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the
Fields which was formed around a square and its current
look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries.
The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa.
If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island
not far from Jelsa, you‘ll come across the small villages of
Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their
appearance and peacefulness.
Only 7km east of Jelsa, you‘ll find the abandoned village
of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and
stone and they‘re completely unique in their entirety of
rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave,
the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era,
5000-4000 B.C.
Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of
the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call
Vrboska ‚‘Little Venice‘‘ due to it‘s small bridges with which
it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is
worth a look in as is the fort church of St Mary of Charity
from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence
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of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque
church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure
attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius,
Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano,
Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the
filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini.On the northern part of the
island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina
beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik,
Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head to the southern
side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel
(hollowed out of the rock) beside a place called Pitve on
the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You‘ll come across a
gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro, Korčula and the
Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tunnel. Until recently
the tunnel functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a
call you‘d know if there was a car waiting to enter from the
other end but now there is a traffic light in place. The locals
dug out the tunnel so they could get from one side of the
island to the other. When you pass the tunnel you‘ll get to the
southern side of the island which is beautiful and on which
vineyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali‘ (Small Blue)
grape, located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala. On this southern
side of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić
beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and
Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje
and Vela Lučica beaches. On island‘s eastern side lies the
small port of Sućuraj which is also the starting point of the
mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line).
Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and
best preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and
now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the
old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the
sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side.
The island‘s mountains aren‘t very high, however, with their
coastal slopes and marvellous sea views they are ideal for
any hiker‘s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain
hiking, trekking are promising as too for diving.
Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in
these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the
past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties
‘Bogdanuša‘ and ‘Drenkuša‘ which can not be found
anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the
cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali‘ due to its sunny hillsides which
give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include
Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality wine
‘Zlatan Plavac‘ (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate
where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali
Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the
Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić,
Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates.
Vis
The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas
in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for
foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely
remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of
indescribable beauty.
The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast
coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of
Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in
the east, Sušac.
Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its
fair distance from the mainland. However, it‘s an excellent
place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty,
or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.
The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or
catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a
car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip
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split dalmatia couNty
takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be
purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets
can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest
towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus
line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the
right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and
are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who
get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection
for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split.
Things to see and do:
The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon
and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic
delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the
marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest
sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town
of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also,
don‘t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance
summer villas, Tito‘s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of
the ancient city.
Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia.
One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek
colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The
ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of
the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and
you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological
Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress
“Gospina batarija‘ (Our Lady‘s Battery) also known for its
large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze
head of the Greek godess Artemis.
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52 split dalmatia couNty
The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the
churches of Sv.Ciprijana (St Cyprian) and the Holy Spirit, the
Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the
sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja.
Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the
island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also
houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the
church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering
a spectacular view of below.
The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the
township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone
huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is
interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages
which has conserved its exceptional form.
Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina
(Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja
(Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn‘t be the
marvel that it is.
And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and
enjoy a true marine experience!
It‘s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island
of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweetness”.
It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish
stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet),
young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima),
artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artičoke sa bobom
i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu),
crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to
one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib)
which is prepared for guests all year round and contains
dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel
spirits. And, let‘s not forget the island‘s charming wines,
Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the delicious and
most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of
carob, rose, sage and fennel.
Surroundings
Makarska Riviera
A stay in the Riviera offers all of the things you can find on
any normal Croatian holiday (beautiful scenery, crystal clear
water, etc.), along with a few added bonuses that might
make it particularly attractive for some visitors. The first
of these things might be the Riviera‘s namesake, the city
of Makarska. The main highlight of this small coastal town
might well be its promenade, the palm-lined Marineta street,
where cafés, bars and shops keep watch over the nearby
harbour. The town‘s horizon is dominated by nearby Biokovo
mountain range, a must-see for visitors to Makarska. At
1762m, Biokovo is the highest mountain in Dalmatia and is
marked with over thirty hiking trails of varying difficulty and
abounds with caves, the remains of ancient villages, all sorts
of wildlife scampering about and even a botanical garden,
making it an absolute haven for hiking enthusiasts. From
the top of the mountain on a clear day, you can see every
island in Dalmatia stretching out beneath you. If that‘s not
enough to satiate your travel hunger, the rest of the Riviera is
dotted with a number of tiny, quiet towns that are numerous
enough to avoid becoming bogged down by the summer
tourist explosion. Towns such as Baška Voda, Podgora and
Gradac could be ideal stopping points on a meandering trip
through the Riviera, with plenty of time taken to soak up the
sun, laze on beautiful beaches and get to know a bit about
life in each place along the way.
Adriatic photo service
Omiš
Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia
and Herzegovina, the Cetina River winds a tortuous course
through the countryside until it finally emptying into the
Adriatic.The mouth of the river passes through an impressive
gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and
picturesque town that is the center of what has become
known as „the Omiš Riviera“. However, things were not always
so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of
pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled
the waters in the area in special boats called „arrows“, so
named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily
into the mouth of the river.
While it‘s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen
cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fasttraveling
pirate ships, there‘s still plenty of adventure to be
had in Omiš. The mountainous areas around the town make
for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline
blue and the history of the town can be explored in the
remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of
Omiš used to defend the town against attacks from Turkish
invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far
as the 13th century. And when you‘re finished exploring the
natural beauty of Omiš and it‘s history, the town‘s central
location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your
Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of
terrorizing the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš.
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Fancy a little rafting, canyoning, trekking or perhaps a canoe
safari in between swimming and sunning yourself? All you
need to do is contact the Omiš area agencies below. Let
the adventure begin!
Active Holidays Knezova Kačića bb, tel. (+385-21)
86 18 29/(+385-21) 86 30 15, info@activeholidays.
hr, www.activeholidays-croatia.com. Q Open 08:00 -
13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Almissa larus Vukovarska bb (Galeb Camp), tel.
(+385-21) 86 45 96, almissa-larus@galeb.hr, www.
almissa-larus.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A
Dalmatino tours Put ribnjaka bb, tel. (+385-21) 86 44
52/(+385-) 098 165 55 99, info@dalmatino-tours.com,
www.dalmatino-tours.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Jut Podgrađe bb, tel. (+385-21) 86 90 05/(+385-) 098
167 84 99, jut@jut-cetina.hr, www.jut-cetina.hr. Q
Open by prior arrangement.
Rafting Pinta Rogač 1/10, Duće, tel. (+385-21) 73 40
16/(+385-) 091 530 45 02, contact@rafting-pinta.com,
www.rafting-pinta.com. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Ružmarin Put Skalica 5, tel. (+385-21) 75 66 56,
uprava@ruzmarin.hr, www.ruzmarin.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 21:00. A
Slap Slime, Zadvarje, tel. (+385-21) 87 11 08, slap@
st.t-com.hr, www.hrslap.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A
Solin
Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres
outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and
the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman
settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of
its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace
of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now,
erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days
there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity‘s early
history. According to the Bible, Paul‘s student Titus traveled
to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy
and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted
such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town‘s
role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an
archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of
„Croatia‘s Pompeii“.
Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos
factories as its principal industries, which did little to
enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations
exposing the remains of the former Roman town located
nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town
a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the
possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two
thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism,
Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving
its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been
carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas
that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if
you‘re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In
the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir
and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored
there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the
country that is just slightly off the beaten path.
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split dalmatia couNty
Adriatic photo service
Trogir
Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance
away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses
incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of
which have been built upon by a progression of generations
during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir‘s
old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque
and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with
modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating
amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.
Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the
island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until
well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished
by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal
Croatian towns, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of
victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of
subservience to outside governments, with the town finally
coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.
While the former rulers of the region were interested in
Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are
interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the
city‘s old town. Of particular importance are the churches
and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke‘s
palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps
most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence
and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and
Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral
in 1240.
The cultural and historical significance of the town and its
architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United
Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added
Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the
beginning of a new era in Trogir‘s history. While traditionally an
economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the
town‘s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism,
as Croatia‘s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination
for tourists from around the world.
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56 BiRdWatchiNg iN cRoatia
Note: this is not a specialist or expert text on birdwatching
but a general overview of birdwatching in Croatia. The text
has been prepared in cooperation with the web portal
www.ptice.net and with the kind assistance of Mr Darko
Podravec, with our thanks.
Birdwatching in Croatia is only recently gaining in popularity,
partly due to the interest shown by visitors from other
European countries, notably Great Britain. However, local
ornithological societies and other organisations, including
schools, are also making a significant contribution through
monitoring the numbers of birds, organising volunteer camps
for tagging birds and raising awareness about the need not
only to protect birds but the environment as a whole.
According to data from the State Directorate for the
Protection of Nature and the Environment, in December
1999 there were 371 bird species in Croatia, an exceptionally
high number for a country of this size. There are 228 nesting
species, of which 78 are registered as endangered species
in Europe. At the same time, Croatia has an exceptionally
high number of endangered species due to disappearing
habitats, especially wetlands, and due to poaching. The
majority of protected species are to be found in hard-toreach
areas such as mountain peaks, cliff faces and gorges,
and areas such as the Neretva delta on the Adriatic coast
and along the Sava and Drava rivers in the north, as well
as close to the large fish farms to be found in Pannonian
Croatia.
Today in Croatia there are 19 bird reserves engaged in
nature protection in areas where there are large bird
populations, large numbers of species of birds, or where
endangered species are to be found. Birdlife International
has identified 23 Important Bird Areas in Croatia, while
the State Directorate for the Protection of Nature and the
Environment has recognised 40 areas which are important
for bird life. Some of these areas are bird reserves, some
form parts of national parks or nature parks, while others do
not enjoy any form of protection.
Waterbird Census
Darko Podravec
Bird lovers can take part in the International Winter
Waterbird Census, organised by Wetlands International
on a global level. Taking place over three weeks at
the beginning of January every year, the census aims
to collect information on the ever more endangered
bird species that inhabit marshes and other wetland
habitats, as well as on species that nest in the far
northern regions of Europe and Asia. Read more on
www.wetlands.org
Darko Podravec
Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Although there are birdwatching opportunities all year round,
the liveliest seasons are spring and autumn. Autumn signals
both the departure of species that nest in Croatia and the
arrival of visitors from northern Europe and Asia. In spring,
the species that spend their winters in the warmer climes of
Africa return to nest. At any time, you might spot a species
that is just passing through en route to somewhere else:
Croatia is a bottleneck on the migratory route to and from
Africa for a large number of European bird species. There
are guide books available to help you identify species and
understand their behaviour.
The best times of the day for birdwatching are the early
morning and early evening. At these times, birds are at their
most active, especially during the summer when birds, like
people, avoid the hottest part of the day.
Of course, if you do go birdwatching, it’s vital to take care
not to disturb the birds. Large numbers of visitors to national
parks, nature parks and bird reserves may be distressing
to their inhabitants, and disturbing the birds prevents us
from being able to observe their natural behaviour. It is
advisable to avoid getting too close to bird nests, since you
risk the parents abandoning the nests, which is disastrous,
especially where endangered species are concerned.
The equipment you need for birdwatching includes good
quality binoculars and a handbook which classifies birds by
species. You’ll also be glad of a good camera and sensible
clothing. Obviously, you should avoid bright colours which will
scare the birds away.
Many birdwatchers pass on the information they collect to
the institutions responsible for the protection of birds or
to ornithological societies, which is of great help to these
organisations in monitoring changes in the number of birds,
in their behaviour and habitats.
EuroBirdwatch
split.inyourpocket.com
BiRdWatchiNg iN cRoatia
Darko Podravec
Bird lovers by now have a date in their diary every
year for the first weekend in October, when the annual
EuroBirdwatch is held. Organised by BirdLife, a global
partnership of conservation organisations, the event
aims to raise awareness of issues related to bird
migration, to promote protection of endangered bird
species and to recruit new members for the partner
organisations. See www.birdlife.org
The first bird reserve in Croatia
Krapje đol, not far from the villages of Krapje and
Jasenovac in central Croatia, was designated a bird
reserve in 1963. Here, a tributary of the River Sava
provides ideal nesting conditions for the Eurasian
Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia). The tributary sadly
dried up due to the construction of an embankment and
became overgrown. However, the species which nest
here, which are rare both in European and global terms,
have been saved thanks to a canal which was built to
restore the flow of water.
Darko Podravec
Since birdwatching in Croatia is still not very common, below
we list a range of organisations which might be of interest
to nature lovers, although there might neither be much
information about birds in specific nor professional guides.
Before visiting any protected area, we ask you to please
contact the organisation responsible, which will give you
any instructions and warnings necessary to protect fragile
habitats, enabling as many people as possible to enjoy the
beauty of nature as well as learning how to protect it.
The Pantan wetlands area near Trogir was declared a nature
reserve for fish and bird life in the year 2000. Unfortunately,
this once extensive marshland was encroached upon by
nearby built up areas in the past, and as yet there are no
organised birdwatching activities, but Pantan is nevertheless
a valuable example of a marsh area on the eastern Adriatic
where salt water mingles with fresh water, and it provides an
important stop on the migratory path for wetland birds. The
public institution Dalmatian Nature is responsible for the
management of this nature reserve: if you are interested in
visiting Pantan, please contact them in advance.
Dalmatian Nature – Public institute for natural heritage
managment, Braće Kaliterna 10. Tel. (+385-21) 33 23
22, www.dalmatian-nature.hr
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58 iNdeX
Aci Grašo 22
Adria 21
Adriana 18
Adriana 22
Agroresort Bračka Perla 20
Apetit 22
Archeological Museum (Arheološki
muzej) 30
Art 17
Art&čok 23
As 18
Atrium 17
Bellevue 18
Bifora 27
Biševo 21
Bistro Black Cat 22
Bluesun Hotel Borak 20
Boban 22
Bobis-Riva 24
Bota Šare 23
Caffe Gallery Ave 26
Cardo 22
City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) 30
Consul 18
Croatia 20
Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski
pomorski muzej) 30
Dalmina 17
Delta 23
Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanova
palača) 28
Dujam 18
Duje 22
Element bar 27
Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija
Emanuel Vidović) 31
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski
muzej) 30
Favola 26
Fife 23
Fish Market (Ribarnica) 28
Gaga 26
Galerija 24
Galija 24
Ghetto 27
Globo 17
Green Market (Pazar) 28
Grgur Ninski 33
Gušt 24
Hemingway 27
Hvaranin 24
Il posto 22
Issa 21
Jugo 23
Jungla 27
Kadena 22
Kalafatić 26
Kantun Paulina 23
Kavana Procaffe 26
Kibela 24
Kocka 27
Kod Joze 24
Konoba Leut 24
Konoba Varoš 25
Kuća sladoleda Carmen 24
La Maison de Sarah 24
Le Meridien 21
Le Monde 23
Lučica 25
Lvxor 26
Makrovega 25
Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) 28
Marmont 17
Marmontova Street (Marmontova
ulica) 33
Maslina 24
Mc Donald‘s 23
Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine
Kaštelet 31
More 18
Museum of Croatian Archeological
Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih
arheoloških spomenika) 31
Narodni (People‘s) Square (Narodni
trg - Pjaca) 34
Noštromo 23
O‘Hara 27
Obojena Svjetlost 27
Oštarija u Viđakovi 25
Palača Dešković 20
Park 17
Pašike 21
Pastura 20
Peristil 18
Pimpinella 25
Po Bota 26
Poljud Stadium 34
Posejdon 23
President 17
Prokurative (Trg Republike) 33
Puls2 27
Red room 27
Riva 28
Riva 21
Rizzo 23
Saint Dominic‘s Church and
Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv.
Dominika) 32
San Antonio 21
Šetač 26
Silver Central 20
Silver Gate 20
Slavija 18
Šperun 25
Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina)
32
Split Hostel Booze and Snooze 20
St Riva 27
Stelon 23
Teak caffe 26
Teraca Bamba 26
Terra Antika 25
The Church of Our Lady of the Bell
tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) 32
The Church of Saint Francis
(Samostanska crkva sv. Frane) 32
The Church of Saint Martin (Golden
gate) (Crkvica sv. Martina) 32
The Franciscan Church and
Monastery of the Assumption of the
Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka
crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene
Djevice Marije) 32
The Palace 21
The Peristyle and The Cathedral of
St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv.
Dujma) 30
The Saint Clara Monastery and
Church (Samostan i Crkva sv. Klare)
33
The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica
splitske katedrale) 32
Tonik Juicy Bar 26
Tradicija 24
Vanilla 27
Veli Varoš 32
Velo misto No 1 24
Vestibul Palace 17
Vidilica 26
Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće
Radića) 34
Waterman Svpetrvs Resort 20
Žbirac 26
Zlatna ribica 25
Zlatna vrata 24
Zoološki vrt 34
Zrno zdravog života 25
Adriatic photo service
??City?? In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
A. Cesarca C-3
Ante Petravića E-1/F-1
Antuna Branka Šimića E-3
Arapova C-2, H-2
Babina C-3, H-3
Bakotićeva C-2
Ban Mladenova C-3/D-3, H-2
Ban Berislavićeva C-2
Bana Josipa Jelačića I-2
Barakovićeva E-3
Barešićeva F-2/G-2
Barićeva H-2
Bartola Kašića C-3
Begovićeva C-3
Benkovačka E-2
Bernarda Vukasa E-2
Bihaćka D-2, J-1
Bijankinijeva D-3, K-3
Bilanova H-2
Bilice I G-1
Bilice II G-1
Biogradska G-3
Biokovska D-2, K-1
Biserova C-2/D-2, I-1
Bjelovarska E-2
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Blatine E-3
Blaža Trogiranina B-3
Bleiburških žrtava D-2
Boktuljin put E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2
Bolska D-2, K-1
Borčićeva C-3, H-2
Bosanska I-2
Botićevo šetalište C-3
Bože Peričića E-3
Bračka F-3
BračkaUvala Zenta E-3
Brajevića prilaz H-3
Branimirova obala C-3, H-3
Bregovita D-3
Bribirska D-2, J-1
Brune Bušića E-2
Bubalova K-3
Bukovčeva D-3
Bulićeva J-2
Buvnina I-2
Catanijin put C-3
Cesta mira F-2
Cosmijeva I-2
Cvjetna E-3
Čiovska B-3
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Čulića dvori D-2/D-3, J-2
Ćiril-Metodova D-2, I-2
Dinarska E-2
Dinka Šimunovića F-3
Dioklecijanova J-2
Dobrić I-2
Dobrilina E-3/F-3
Domaldova I-2
Dominisova J-2
Domovinskog rata E-2/F-2, J-1
Doverska F-3/G-3
Drage Ivaniševića E-2
Dragovode G-2
Dražanac C-3, H-3
Drniška E-1/F-1
Drvenička B-3
Držićeva D-2
DržićevaK-1/K-2
Dubrovačka D-2/E-2
Dumanića K-3
Duplančića dvori K-2/K-3
Duvanjska D-3
Fra Bonina C-2
Fra Grge Martića E-2
Fra Luje Maruna K-2
Franje Račkog D-2, K-1
Gajeva C-2, H-1
Getaldićeva F-2
Glagoljaška D-3, K-2
Gorička D-2, J-1/K-1
Gorski put F-1/F-2/G-1
Gospinica E-3
Grada Antofagaste C-2
Gradišćanskih Hrvata F-1
Grge Novaka E-2
Gundulićeva D-2
Harambašićeva C-2, H-1
Hektorovićeva E-3
Hercegovačka E-1
Hrvatske mornarice C-2/D-2
Hrvatskih iseljenika D-2
Hrvojeva D-3, J-2/J-3
Hvarska D-3, K-3
I. G. Kovačića D-3
Ilićev prolaz I-2
Iločka E-2
Imotska F-1
Ispod Sv. Lovre G-3
Istarska D-2, J-1/J-2/K-1
Ivana Pl. Zajca E-3/F-3
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60 stReet RegisteR
Ivana Raosa F-1
Jadranska D-3
Jakova Gotovca F-2
Janjevska F-2/G-2
Jerina H-2
Jerolima Kavanjina I-1
Jesenička K-3
Jobova C-2
Kačićeva D-2, I-1
Kamenita C-2, H-1/H-2
Kapićeva E-3
Karamanova C-2
Karlovačka E-2
Kaštelanova E-3
Kaštelanska C-2
Katalinićev prilaz D-3
Kijevska F-2
Klaićeva poljana I-2
Klarina D-3, K-3
Kliška D-2
Kliška J-1
Kneza Lj. Posavskog D-2
Kneza Mislava D-3, K-2
Kneza Višeslava D-2/D-3, K-2
Kninska D-2, I-2
Kocunarski prilaz E-2/F-2
Kolombatićevo šetalište B-2/C-2/C-3
Komulovića put D-1/D-2/E-1/E-2
Kopilica E-1
Kotorska G-3
Kozjačka C-2, H-1/H-2
Kragićeva H-1
Kraj Zlatnih Vrata J-2
Kralja Stjepana Držislava G-2/G-3
Kralja Tomislava D-2, I-2/J-2
Kralja Zvonimira D-3/E-3, J-3
Kranjčevićeva E-3
Krbavska F-2
Krešimirova J-2
Križanićeva E-2
Križine F-3
Krležina E-2
Kroz smrdečac F-3
Krste Odaka E-3
Krstulovića dvori J-1/J-2
Kruševića gumno J-1
Kukočeva K-3
Kukuljevićeva E-2
Kumičićeva E-1
Adriatic photo service
Kupreška F-1
Kuzmanićeva K-3
Kuzmića F-1, K-3
Kvaternikova D-2
Laginjina E-2
Lazarica E-3
Lička F-1
Livanjska D-2, J-1
Lovački put G-2
Lovretska D-2
Lovrićeve skale E-3
Lučica C-2
Lučićeva D-2, F-3
Ljubuška F-1
Makarska G-3
Mandalinski put C-2
Manđerova
Manuška poljana J-1
Marangunićevo šetalište A-3
Marasovića C-3, H-3
Marjanski put B-3
Marjanski tunel C-3
Marmontova D-2, I-2/J-1
Marulićeva J-2
Matice Hrvatske E-2/E-3/F-2
Matije Gupca D-3
Matije Ivanića E-2
Matoševa C-2, H-1
Matošića D-2, I-2
Mažuranićevo šetalište D-2
Mediteranski put C-1
Mejaši I G-2
Mejaši II G-2
Mihanovićeva B-3/C-3
Mile Gojsalića D-3
Milićeva C-2/C-3, H-2
Mišina F-2
Mitnička E-3
Moliških Hrvata F-3
Mosećka E-2/F-2
Mosorska D-3, K-3
Mostarska F-1
Mostine G-1
Mrčelina I-2
Na Križice E-3
Na Toć J-3
Narodni trg D-3, I-2
Nazorova C-2/C-3, H-1
Nelipćeva D-3, I-2
Nepotova D-3
Neslanovac F-1
Nigerova I-2
Ninska F-2
Nodilova D-2, I-2/J-2
Njegoševa C-3
Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga
preporoda D-3, I-2/I-3
Obala Kneza Domagoja D-3, J-3
Obala Lazareta I-3/J-3
Obrov D-3, I-2
Odeska G-3
Omiška D-3, K-3
Osječka E-2/E-3
Ostravska G-2
Ozaljska F-2/G-2
Palmina C-3, H-2/H-3
Palmotićeva D-3/E-3
Papalićeva J-2
Papandopulova F-3
Pavla R. Vitezovića F-2
Pazinska F-2
Penića H-2
Perića C-3
Perišićeva C-3, H-2
Perivoj Ane Roje F-2
Pervanova K-3
Petra Kružića I-2
Petrićeva K-2/K-3
Petrinjska E-2
Petrova D-3, J-3/K-3
Pistura I-2
Plančićeva C-2
Plinarska C-2, H-1
Plitvička E-1
Pod Kosom C-3
Podgorska C-2, H-1
Podrum J-2/J-3
Pojišanska D-3, K-3
Poljička cesta E-3/F-3
Poljudsko šetalište C-1
Popovićeva I-2
Porinova D-2, I-1
Požeška E-2
Pujanke F-2
Puntarska C-2
Pupačićeva E-3
Put Brda F-1
Put Brodarice D-2
Put Dragovoda G-2
Put Duja E-1
Put Firula E-3
Put Glavičina D-2
Put iza nove bolnice E-3
Put Meja C-3
Put Mostina G-1
Put Pazdigrada G-3
Put Plokita D-2
Put Ravnih Njiva F-1
Put Sjeverne Luke F-1
Put Skalica C-2/D-2
Put Smokvice F-1
Put Supavla D-1
Put Sv. Lovre G-2/G-3
Put Trstenika F-3
Put Žnjana F-3/G-3
R. Boškovića E-3/F-3
R. Katalinića Jeretova F-2
Radmilovića C-2, H-1
Radnička E-2
Radovanova D-3, J-3
Radunica D-3, J-2
Ramska E-1
Reića C-3, H-2
Reljkovićeva D-2, K-2
Rendićeva C-2
Riječka J-1
Rodrigina I-2/J-2
Rokova D-3, J-2/K-2
Rooseweltova E-3
Sarajevska F-1
Savska D-2/E-2
Senjska C-3, H-2
Severova D-3, J-3
Sinovčića H-2
Sinjska D-2, J-1
Siriščevića H-2/H-3
Skradinska G-3
Slavićeva C-2, J-1
Slavonska E-2
Smiljanićeva D-2, K-2
Solinska F-1/G-1
Solurat C-3, H-3
Spinčićeva E-3
Spinutska C-2
Sredmanuška J-2
Stagnja H-2
Starčevićeva D-2
Stari Pazar D-3, J-3
Stepinčeva E-2
Stinice E-1
Stoci G-1
Stonska G-3
Studinova F-2
Sućidar E-2
Sukoišanska D-2
Supilova B-3
Sustipanski put C-3
Sutroičin put C-1/D-1
Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-2
Svačićeva D-2, I-1
Svetog Križa C-2/C-3/D-2/D-3, H-2
Svilajska E-2
Š. Bačvice D-3
Šegvićeva J-3/K-3
Šenoina C-3, H-2
Šetalište BeneGunjačina B-2
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića A-3
Šetalište Marina Tartaglie A-2/B-
2/C-2
Šibenska E-2
Šižgorićeva E-2/E-3
Škrape E-3
Šoltanska F-3
Šopova G-2
Šperun C-3, H-2
Šubićeva I-2
Table D-2
Teslina C-2
Težački put G-2
Tijardovićeva F-2
Tolstojeva D-2/D-3, J-2/K-1
Tomića Stine H-2
Tončićeva D-2/D-3, I-2
Trg Braće Radić I-2
Trg Gaje Bulata I-1
Trg Republike C-3/D-3, I-2
Triljska F-1
Trogirska D-2/D-3, I-2
Trondheimska F-2/F-3
Trpimirova D-3, J-3
Trstenik F-3
Tršćanska D-2
Trumbićeva obala C-3, H-3
Trumbučac J-3/K-3
Ulica Slobode D-2
Uskočka E-3
Uvala Baluni C-3
V. Krstulovića E-3
V. Lisinskog C-2/C-3
Valpovačka E-2
Varaždinska E-2
Velebitska D-2/E-2
Vesanovića K-3
Vetranićeva C-3
Vidilica D-3
Vijugasta H-1
Viktora Vide G-2
Vinka Draganje E-2
Vinkovačka E-2
Vinodolska F-2
Viskotina K-3
Visoka F-2
Viška D-3
Vjekoslava Paraća E-2
Vladimira Gortana H-2
Vrančićeva E-2
Vranjički put E-1/F-1
Vrgoračka G-2
Vrh Kmana E-2
Vrh Lučac D-3, K-3
Vrh Visoke F-2
Vrlička F-1
Vrzov Dolac D-3, K-2/K-3
Vukasovićeva D-2, J-2
Vukovarska D-2/E-2, K-1
Washingtonova D-2, K-1
Zadarska G-1, I-2
Zagorski put F-1/F-2/G-21
Zagrebačka D-2, J-2/J-3
Zbora narodne garde G-1/G-2
Zlodrina poljana D-3, J-3
Zoranićeva D-2, I-1
Zrinsko-Frankopanska C-2
Zupina F-2
Zvizdina J-3
Žmovnička D-3/E-3
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