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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightsee<strong>in</strong>g Events Maps<br />
<strong>Zoom</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />
Your guide through days<br />
<strong>and</strong> nights of high spirits<br />
<strong>Isl<strong>and</strong>s</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />
Highl<strong>and</strong>s<br />
What to see <strong>and</strong> do <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>and</strong> around Split<br />
N°4 - complimentary copy<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
SPLIT<br />
Summer 2011<br />
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-<br />
written series of guidebooks.”<br />
The New York Times
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Contents<br />
Arriv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Split 6<br />
L<strong>and</strong> ahoy!<br />
The Basics 7<br />
Whither toilets?<br />
Culture & Events 8<br />
Festival fun <strong>and</strong> music mania<br />
Where to stay 13<br />
Your home away from home<br />
Restaurants 18<br />
Feast your senses<br />
Cafés 23<br />
Get <strong>in</strong>to full chill mode<br />
Just south of town, your jurney here takes you over a<br />
beautiful curv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> roll<strong>in</strong>g coast-l<strong>in</strong>e, <strong>and</strong> is worth the trip<br />
if for this alone.<br />
coNteNts<br />
David Guetta is com<strong>in</strong>g to Split’s Žnjan beach <strong>and</strong> for one<br />
night it will be transformed <strong>in</strong>to the biggest dance stage<br />
<strong>in</strong> Europe.<br />
Nightlife 24<br />
Step out <strong>in</strong> Split style<br />
Sightsee<strong>in</strong>g 25<br />
Galleries, churches, Roman rema<strong>in</strong>s...<br />
Mail & Phones 32<br />
Go on… open your heart<br />
Gett<strong>in</strong>g around 33<br />
Scoot around the city <strong>in</strong> style<br />
Leisure 39<br />
Anyone for tennis?<br />
Shopp<strong>in</strong>g 40<br />
Perfect gifts <strong>and</strong> souvenirs<br />
Directory 42<br />
Grown up important stuff<br />
Split Dalmatia County 43<br />
Day trips galore<br />
Birdwatch<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Croatia 56<br />
This issue’s special feature<br />
Maps & Index<br />
Index 58<br />
Street <strong>in</strong>dex 59<br />
City centre map 61<br />
City map 62<br />
Country map 66<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
3
4 foReWoRd<br />
For decades Split was an odd paradox, a city steeped <strong>in</strong><br />
history <strong>and</strong> culture that didn’t seem to care whether it got a<br />
slice of the tourism pie or not. It was traditionally a transit<br />
po<strong>in</strong>t through which tourists passed on their way to resorts on<br />
the isl<strong>and</strong>s of Brač <strong>and</strong> Hvar. Even Split’s own citizens would<br />
drift off to nearby beaches <strong>in</strong> the summer season, leav<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
city <strong>in</strong> a state of semi-deserted balmy stupour. And although<br />
day-trippers were frequently bussed <strong>in</strong>to town to drool over<br />
the city’s architectural riches, few locals ever considered that<br />
Split really qualified as a dest<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>in</strong> itself.<br />
The last few years have seen a huge change <strong>in</strong> Split’s<br />
fortunes. Modern travellers have been turned on by the sheer<br />
urban energy of one of the Mediterranean’s great port cities,<br />
<strong>and</strong> have opted to stick around for a few days rather than<br />
hurry<strong>in</strong>g to catch the first boat out. And the locals – who<br />
have always considered their town to be one of the most<br />
<strong>in</strong>explicably unique places on earth, but habitually assume<br />
that outsiders are too stupid to realize it – have awoken to<br />
the realization that the new breed of foreigner actually th<strong>in</strong>ks<br />
Split is just as cool as they do. And to be honest, Split doesn’t<br />
have to try too hard to impress. For dedicated urban nomads<br />
it’s a dream city of shore-side cafes, back-alley bars, <strong>and</strong> a<br />
vivacious, dressed-to-thrill cast of locals for whom the art<br />
of hav<strong>in</strong>g a good night out is a lifelong call<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
Cover story<br />
This is a musical filled with<br />
songs <strong>and</strong> playfulness<br />
depict<strong>in</strong>g the Split of old,<br />
a true dedication to the<br />
‘small people’ of the city<br />
of Split. The operetta,<br />
‘Split Aquarel’, which<br />
was composed by Ivo<br />
Tijardović, has from its<br />
very premiere <strong>in</strong> 1928<br />
until today, rema<strong>in</strong>ed one<br />
of the most recognizable<br />
trademarks of the city.<br />
The newest production<br />
premiered <strong>in</strong> November<br />
2008 <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>stantly became a hit. S<strong>in</strong>ce its premiere<br />
it has been performed 25 times with every respective<br />
performance be<strong>in</strong>g a sell-out.<br />
Split In Your Pocket<br />
Draškovićeva 66<br />
Zagreb, Croatia<br />
tel. +(385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70<br />
fax +(385-1) 492 39 24<br />
zagreb@<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1846-856X<br />
© Plava Ponistra d.o.o.<br />
Pr<strong>in</strong>ted by Rad<strong>in</strong> pr<strong>in</strong>t, Sveta Nedelja<br />
Cover A photo taken from the<br />
operetta, ‘Split Aquarel’, by Ivo<br />
Tijardović, Croatian National Theatre<br />
<strong>in</strong> Split<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Višnja Arambašić<br />
Assistant Editor Krist<strong>in</strong>a Kovač<br />
Contributors Frank Jel<strong>in</strong>čić, Renata<br />
Kontrec, Chad Phillips, Tocher Mitchell,<br />
Jonathan Bousfield, Nataly Anderson<br />
Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka<br />
Valić<br />
Layout & Design Maja Vidović,<br />
Gordan Karabogdan, Ivana Novak<br />
Photos Adriatic photo service, Split In<br />
Your Pocket team, TZ Split<br />
Sales & Circulation<br />
General Manager Višnja Arambašić<br />
Sales & Circulation Manager<br />
Kristijan Vukičević<br />
Krešimir Grgić<br />
zagreb@<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Account manager: Mirna C<strong>in</strong>drić<br />
The World In Your Pocket<br />
Northern<br />
Irel<strong>and</strong><br />
Irel<strong>and</strong><br />
Netherl<strong>and</strong>s<br />
Pol<strong>and</strong><br />
Germany<br />
Czech<br />
Republic<br />
Austria<br />
Switzerl<strong>and</strong><br />
Slovenia<br />
Romania<br />
Croatia<br />
Bosnia<br />
Serbia<br />
Bulgaria<br />
Montenegro Kosovo<br />
FYR Macedonia<br />
Albania<br />
Greece<br />
In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of<br />
late, publish<strong>in</strong>g new guides <strong>in</strong> the Netherl<strong>and</strong>s<br />
(Tilburg, with Amsterdam to follow very soon), <strong>in</strong><br />
Austria (Vienna), <strong>in</strong> Croatia (Šibenik), <strong>in</strong> Switzerl<strong>and</strong><br />
(Zurich) <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> Belarus (M<strong>in</strong>sk). This<br />
year will also see the first non-European Pockets<br />
rolled out <strong>in</strong> South Africa <strong>and</strong> Mozambique.<br />
We also cont<strong>in</strong>ue to roll out iPhone apps to all<br />
our cities. We will be launch<strong>in</strong>g even more In Your<br />
Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to<br />
f<strong>in</strong>d out which cities we will be cover<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> to<br />
keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news, like<br />
In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/<br />
<strong>in</strong>yourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.<br />
com/<strong>in</strong>yourpocket).<br />
Copyright notice<br />
Estonia<br />
Russia<br />
Latvia<br />
Lithuania<br />
Belarus<br />
Ukra<strong>in</strong>e<br />
Text <strong>and</strong> photos copyright Plava Ponistra<br />
1992 - 2011. Maps copyright of the<br />
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part<br />
of this publication may be reproduced<br />
<strong>in</strong> any form, except brief extracts for<br />
the purpose of review, without written<br />
permission from the publisher <strong>and</strong><br />
copyright owner. The br<strong>and</strong> name In Your<br />
Pocket is used under license from UAB<br />
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,<br />
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).<br />
Editor’s note<br />
The editorial content of In Your Pocket<br />
guides is <strong>in</strong>dependent from paid-for<br />
advertis<strong>in</strong>g. Sponsored list<strong>in</strong>gs are<br />
clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />
readers‘ comments <strong>and</strong> suggestions.<br />
We have made every effort to ensure<br />
the accuracy of the <strong>in</strong>formation at the<br />
time of go<strong>in</strong>g to press <strong>and</strong> assume no<br />
responsibility for changes <strong>and</strong> errors.<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com
6 aRRiViNg iN split<br />
Tourist <strong>in</strong>formation<br />
Tourist Information Centre J-2,<br />
Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06,<br />
www.visitsplit.com. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
20:30, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Split Tourist Board I-2, Obala<br />
hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 34<br />
86 00, tourist<strong>in</strong>fo@visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.<br />
com. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board D-3,<br />
Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel. (+385-21) 49 00<br />
32/(+385-21) 49 00 33, <strong>in</strong>fo@dalmatia.hr, www.<br />
dalmatia.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
By boat<br />
Split‘s ferry port isn‘t a bad place to make the transition<br />
from nautical to more l<strong>and</strong>-oriented modes of transportation<br />
<strong>and</strong> has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see<br />
policemen stroll<strong>in</strong>g around, don‘t be disturbed: those are<br />
just the customs officers that work at the office located <strong>in</strong><br />
the port. The toilet near the back of the port will cost you<br />
3kn <strong>and</strong> operates around the clock. There‘s a supermarket<br />
that‘s open from 06:30 - 20:30 daily <strong>and</strong> a few cafés <strong>and</strong> bars<br />
that are open accord<strong>in</strong>g to season <strong>and</strong> dem<strong>and</strong>. Chang<strong>in</strong>g<br />
currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular<br />
<strong>in</strong>tervals throughout the build<strong>in</strong>g. Split Tours operates an<br />
exchange office dur<strong>in</strong>g their work<strong>in</strong>g hours. Call<strong>in</strong>g home:<br />
There are two public phones <strong>in</strong>side the build<strong>in</strong>g. Call<strong>in</strong>g cards<br />
can be purchased from the kiosks that l<strong>in</strong>e the street directly<br />
outside the station. Gett<strong>in</strong>g to town: Directly across the<br />
street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several<br />
po<strong>in</strong>ts around town. Check the schedule posted <strong>in</strong>side the<br />
stop to f<strong>in</strong>d the <strong>in</strong>formation you need. Make a left out of<br />
the port <strong>and</strong> a short walk up the street takes you to the<br />
taxi st<strong>and</strong>; cont<strong>in</strong>ue farther <strong>and</strong> you‘ll reach the old town <strong>in</strong><br />
about five m<strong>in</strong>utes.<br />
By bus<br />
Ma<strong>in</strong> bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,<br />
Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/<br />
(+385-21) 32 91 80, <strong>in</strong>fo@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.<br />
Split‘s bus station is fairly small but has everyth<strong>in</strong>g you need<br />
to make arriv<strong>in</strong>g relatively pa<strong>in</strong>less. A toilet (open 00:00 -<br />
24:00) 3kn can be found <strong>in</strong>side the station, along with the<br />
domestic <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational ticket w<strong>in</strong>dows <strong>and</strong> an <strong>in</strong>formation<br />
desk. The domestic ticket w<strong>in</strong>dow <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>formation desk<br />
both operate twenty-four hours. The <strong>in</strong>ternational ticket<br />
office operates 24h. The red <strong>and</strong> blue posters on the w<strong>in</strong>dow<br />
of the <strong>in</strong>ternational ticket office list the <strong>in</strong>ternational arrivals<br />
<strong>and</strong> departures. Left luggage: A left luggage po<strong>in</strong>t (open<br />
06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of<br />
the station <strong>and</strong> drop off your bags for a flat rate of 6,50kn per<br />
hour, per piece of luggage. Gett<strong>in</strong>g to town: As it‘s on the<br />
same side of the street, the directions for gett<strong>in</strong>g around are<br />
the same as for the tra<strong>in</strong> station: a left turn will eventually lead<br />
you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to<br />
the old town <strong>and</strong> several public phones, ATMs <strong>and</strong> Internet<br />
<strong>and</strong> call centers along the way; <strong>and</strong> taxis wait to whisk you<br />
away directly <strong>in</strong> front of the bus station.<br />
Fun for the whole family<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
By car<br />
From Zagreb<br />
So you have your own wheels <strong>and</strong> you‘d like to know the<br />
easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The<br />
fastest <strong>and</strong> easiest way to get from po<strong>in</strong>t Z to po<strong>in</strong>t S is to<br />
use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on<br />
<strong>in</strong>ternational road maps <strong>and</strong> as A-1 <strong>in</strong>side Croatia. The route<br />
on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long<br />
<strong>and</strong> will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as reliev<strong>in</strong>g you of 157<br />
kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you‘re gett<strong>in</strong>g<br />
close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit <strong>and</strong> that‘s that!<br />
From Slovenia<br />
Travel<strong>in</strong>g from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do<br />
is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 <strong>and</strong> keep<br />
an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.<br />
From Italy<br />
Travel<strong>in</strong>g from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions,<br />
nice <strong>and</strong> sparkl<strong>in</strong>g clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to<br />
Trieste <strong>and</strong> look for the signs that po<strong>in</strong>t to Fiume <strong>and</strong> route<br />
number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia <strong>and</strong><br />
enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take<br />
you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route 6)<br />
to Bosiljevo, where you‘ll see signs for the A-1, which you follow<br />
right <strong>in</strong> to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.<br />
By plane<br />
Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)<br />
Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr,<br />
www.split-airport.hr. Split‘s airport is 30km out<br />
of town <strong>and</strong> is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it<br />
is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriv<strong>in</strong>g can be<br />
directed to the nice people at the <strong>in</strong>formation desk, which is<br />
open from 05:15 - 23:00. Follow the steps lead<strong>in</strong>g down from<br />
the ma<strong>in</strong> hall to f<strong>in</strong>d a toilet <strong>and</strong> a baby-chang<strong>in</strong>g station.<br />
Toilets can also be found by head<strong>in</strong>g upstairs from the ma<strong>in</strong> hall.<br />
If you feel like a dr<strong>in</strong>k or a bite before your flight, Restaurant<br />
<strong>and</strong> Café Ikar operates from 05:00 - 22:00 <strong>and</strong> has an<br />
excellent view of the sea <strong>and</strong> palm trees sway<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the breeze.<br />
Chang<strong>in</strong>g currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) <strong>and</strong><br />
the post office (June -September 19 Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat<br />
07:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun) both operate exchange offices <strong>and</strong><br />
can be found at the far end of the ma<strong>in</strong> hall. There are also two<br />
ATMs <strong>in</strong> the same hall.<br />
Call<strong>in</strong>g home: You can purchase a phone card at the Slobodna<br />
dalmacija kiosk (open accord<strong>in</strong>g to flight times). There are<br />
public phones <strong>in</strong> two locations: first, <strong>in</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong> hall next to<br />
the Internet po<strong>in</strong>t (which offers free Internet, <strong>in</strong>cidentally!); <strong>and</strong><br />
second, upstairs between the two doors lead<strong>in</strong>g to the men‘s<br />
<strong>and</strong> women‘s toilets.<br />
Gett<strong>in</strong>g to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number<br />
of car rental agencies operat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong> hall. Otherwise,<br />
your choices are taxi, public bus or Croatia Airl<strong>in</strong>es airport bus.<br />
Taxis take about thirty m<strong>in</strong>utes from the airport <strong>and</strong> shouldn‘t<br />
cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just <strong>in</strong><br />
front of the airport at twenty-m<strong>in</strong>ute <strong>in</strong>tervals on weekdays <strong>and</strong><br />
thirty-m<strong>in</strong>ute <strong>in</strong>tervals on weekends, with tickets cost<strong>in</strong>g 15kn<br />
one-way; cross the street <strong>and</strong> wait at the stop there. Croatia<br />
Airl<strong>in</strong>es buses run accord<strong>in</strong>g to the arrival times of flights <strong>and</strong><br />
drop you just next to the old town for 30kn.<br />
By tra<strong>in</strong><br />
Ma<strong>in</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel.<br />
(+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hznet.<br />
hr. The tra<strong>in</strong> station has very few amenities, save for the co<strong>in</strong>operated<br />
storage lockers that can be accessed dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
station‘s work<strong>in</strong>g hours, from 05:45 - 22:00 daily. The lockers<br />
have <strong>in</strong>structions <strong>in</strong> English. Gett<strong>in</strong>g to town: As it‘s on the<br />
same side of the street, the directions for gett<strong>in</strong>g around are<br />
the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead<br />
you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to<br />
the old town <strong>and</strong> several public phones, ATMs <strong>and</strong> Internet<br />
<strong>and</strong> call centers along the way; <strong>and</strong> taxis wait to whisk you<br />
away directly <strong>in</strong> front of the tra<strong>in</strong> station.<br />
Customs<br />
All major items brought <strong>in</strong>to the country (laptops, boats,<br />
sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will<br />
be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts<br />
<strong>in</strong> order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs<br />
offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or cultural<br />
works must receive export approval before purchase. Call<br />
the M<strong>in</strong>istry of F<strong>in</strong>ance for further details tel. (+385-1)<br />
459 13 33, www.mf<strong>in</strong>.hr.<br />
Electricity<br />
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the<br />
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical<br />
appliances.<br />
Health & Safety<br />
The Dalmatian coast is safe <strong>and</strong> secure, but a cautious eye<br />
should be kept on one‘s belong<strong>in</strong>gs at all times, nevertheless.<br />
Policija (The Police tel.<br />
no.192) are generally helpful <strong>in</strong> times of crisis; keep <strong>in</strong><br />
m<strong>in</strong>d that they also perform occasional checks of identity<br />
documents, so keep some identification on you at all<br />
times.<br />
Money<br />
There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well<br />
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a<br />
day. Many restaurants, bars <strong>and</strong> cafés accept credit cards,<br />
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash<br />
on you. If you‘re plann<strong>in</strong>g a trip to one of the isl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>in</strong> the<br />
area, you should def<strong>in</strong>itely plan ahead <strong>and</strong> carry the amount<br />
of cash you th<strong>in</strong>k you‘ll need for the trip, as f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g places<br />
that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.<br />
Public Toilets<br />
There are several spots that are labeled as hav<strong>in</strong>g a public<br />
toilet around the city, but not all of them are open. The safest<br />
option is to use the facilities of a bar or café while hav<strong>in</strong>g<br />
a dr<strong>in</strong>k on the premises. The best public one, complete<br />
with staff on h<strong>and</strong> to keep it clean <strong>and</strong> tidy is on Kralja<br />
Tomislava (I-2). It should be said that some of our female<br />
staff members felt a slight h<strong>in</strong>t of sexual discrim<strong>in</strong>ation, as<br />
a cab<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> the public WC runs 4kn, while those of us able to<br />
st<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> do their bus<strong>in</strong>ess will only have to pay 2kn. So<br />
much for gender equality.<br />
Basic data<br />
Population:<br />
Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460<br />
Split County: (April 2001): 463.676<br />
Split (April 2001): 188.694<br />
Territory: Croatia‘s l<strong>and</strong> territory takes up 56,542km2.<br />
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia; Montenegro,<br />
Bosnia-Herzegov<strong>in</strong>a <strong>and</strong> there is a sea-border with<br />
Italy.<br />
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the ma<strong>in</strong> tourist<br />
attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are<br />
some of the most beautiful on the planet <strong>and</strong> were just<br />
named some of its most pure!<br />
<strong>Isl<strong>and</strong>s</strong>: An amaz<strong>in</strong>g 1,246 isl<strong>and</strong>s lie off the Dalmatian<br />
coast, 47 of them <strong>in</strong>habited.<br />
Climate: Mediterranean<br />
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European<br />
Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon <strong>in</strong> Split it is 12:00<br />
<strong>in</strong> Berl<strong>in</strong>, 11:00 <strong>in</strong> London, 06:00 <strong>in</strong> New York, 14:00 <strong>in</strong><br />
Moscow, <strong>and</strong> 21:00 <strong>in</strong> Sydney.<br />
Climate<br />
Temperature, °C<br />
30<br />
National holidays<br />
Basics<br />
Ra<strong>in</strong>fall, mm<br />
100<br />
January 1 New Year’s Day<br />
January 6 Epiphany<br />
April 8 2012 Easter<br />
April 9 2012 Easter Monday<br />
May 1 International Workers' Day<br />
June 7 2012 Corpus Christi<br />
June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day<br />
June 25 Statehood Day<br />
August 5 Victory <strong>and</strong> Homel<strong>and</strong><br />
Thanksgiv<strong>in</strong>g Day<br />
August 15 Feast of the Assumption<br />
October 8 Independence Day<br />
November 1 All Sa<strong>in</strong>ts’ Day<br />
December 25 Christmas<br />
December 26 Sa<strong>in</strong>t Stephen’s Day<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011<br />
20<br />
10<br />
0<br />
-10<br />
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D<br />
Roads<br />
Croatian lawmakers can‘t seem to make up their m<strong>in</strong>ds about<br />
the rules concern<strong>in</strong>g dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> driv<strong>in</strong>g. A recently passed<br />
law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure <strong>and</strong> chaste 0,0%.<br />
But recent developments have seen this law changed yet<br />
aga<strong>in</strong>. The changes mean that if you‘re under 24 years of<br />
age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however,<br />
over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective<br />
June 1, 2008. Once aga<strong>in</strong>, we‘ll leave it to others to debate<br />
the pros <strong>and</strong> cons of this change, but given the mounta<strong>in</strong>ous<br />
terra<strong>in</strong> along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And<br />
the police are enforc<strong>in</strong>g it.<br />
Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol<br />
does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway<br />
<strong>and</strong> speed patrol cars have been <strong>in</strong>troduced on the<br />
motorways. The speed limit <strong>in</strong> urban areas is 50kph unless<br />
otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads <strong>and</strong> 130kph<br />
on highways.<br />
On the spot f<strong>in</strong>es are payable for offences. If you are stopped<br />
for any reason, you will be expected to show your driv<strong>in</strong>g<br />
licence, car registration papers <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>surance certificate,<br />
so make sure to always keep them with you.<br />
Tipp<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about<br />
tipp<strong>in</strong>g, but see<strong>in</strong>g how you‘re a visitor to the country <strong>and</strong><br />
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy <strong>and</strong> throw a<br />
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round<br />
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to<br />
tip, but leav<strong>in</strong>g 10-15% for the staff‘s efforts seems like a<br />
classy th<strong>in</strong>g for a visitor to do, doesn‘t it?<br />
Water<br />
Tap water is absolutely safe for dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
75<br />
50<br />
25<br />
0<br />
7
8 cultuRe & eVeNts<br />
Exhibitions<br />
11.06 Saturday - 11.07 Monday<br />
A monographic exhibition Ante Kaštelančić<br />
J-2, Split Art Gallery, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 35 01 12, www.galum.hr. This exhibit<br />
celebrates 100 years s<strong>in</strong>ce the birth of Ante Kaštelančić, a<br />
stalwart artist dur<strong>in</strong>g the Croatian Modern <strong>and</strong> Contemporary<br />
Art period. See 132 of his works from different art phases<br />
as created between 1934 <strong>and</strong> 1989. In keep<strong>in</strong>g touch with<br />
his coastal seaside town of Podstrana near Split, a great<br />
number of his specific <strong>in</strong>terpretations perta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g to sails will<br />
be presented.<br />
Split Film Festival<br />
10.09 Saturday - 17.09 Saturday<br />
Split Film Festival - International Festival<br />
of New Film<br />
<strong>in</strong>fo@splitfilmfestival.com, www.splitfilmfestival.<br />
com. The flare that film has to offer comes alight <strong>in</strong><br />
the 16th edition of this festival that promotes mov<strong>in</strong>g<br />
images <strong>in</strong> (film, video <strong>and</strong> new media) across seven vast<br />
categories. Recent world <strong>and</strong> Croatian short/feature<br />
films are a highlight as well as some local premieres.<br />
The programme also consists of new media works,<br />
retrospectives, lectures <strong>and</strong> workshops. A Special<br />
Festival Award is presented annually to a known director<br />
for his/her outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g contribution to the art of film.<br />
As a bonus this year, Bela Tarr, the famous Hungarian<br />
filmmaker will conduct a two week workshop for a limited<br />
number of students.<br />
The open<strong>in</strong>g of the festival will be at the Central C<strong>in</strong>ema<br />
whilst screen<strong>in</strong>gs will take place at the Karaman C<strong>in</strong>ema<br />
<strong>and</strong> Zlatna vrata K<strong>in</strong>oteka. Movies are scheduled daily<br />
from 17:00 to 23:00 at both c<strong>in</strong>emas. Many films will be<br />
screened for free; otherwise it is 15kn per ticket.<br />
C<strong>in</strong>emas<br />
Central I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata bb, tel. (+385-21) 34<br />
38 13, www.ekran.hr.<br />
C<strong>in</strong>eplexx City Center One, Vukovarska 207, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 65 11 11, www.c<strong>in</strong>eplexx.hr.<br />
C<strong>in</strong>eStar D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel.<br />
(+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-c<strong>in</strong>estar.hr.<br />
Karaman I-2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58<br />
33, www.ekran.hr.<br />
K<strong>in</strong>oteka Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 36 13 35, www.pouciliste-split.hr.<br />
14.06 - 05.07 Daša Milatić Zimmer frei<br />
25.07 Monday - 01.09 Thursday<br />
Jagoda Jagoda Buić Buić<br />
J-2, Split Art Gallery, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 35 01 12, www.galum.hr. Weav<strong>in</strong>g is what<br />
this artist does best! One of Croatia‘s unique mid to late<br />
20th century artists who has woven her way across world<br />
museums <strong>and</strong> back with amaz<strong>in</strong>g works <strong>in</strong> tapestry. The Art<br />
Gallery proudly presents Buić‘s aforementioned works <strong>in</strong><br />
addition to her theatre work which <strong>in</strong>cludes skteches, masks,<br />
costumes <strong>and</strong> her recent paper <strong>and</strong> colllage work.<br />
Special events<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
15.06 Wednesday - 01.07 Friday<br />
A A festival festival of of street street enterta<strong>in</strong>ers<br />
enterta<strong>in</strong>ers<br />
Clowns, jugglers, acrobats, musicians……<strong>and</strong> many more<br />
are set to dazzle at the 5th <strong>in</strong>ternational festival of street<br />
enterta<strong>in</strong>ers <strong>in</strong> Split! Two weeks of fun <strong>and</strong> excitement<br />
<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g free concerts can be seen at the Peristil, <strong>and</strong> other<br />
city locations <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the Voćni trg, Narodni trg - Pjaca,<br />
Riva etc.<br />
07.07 Thursday - 09.07 Saturday<br />
The The Split Split festival festival<br />
I-2, Prokurative (Trg Republike), www.splitskifestival.hr.<br />
Many say that this is the San Remo Music Festival of Croatia<br />
as it always attracts the biggest names on the Croatian music<br />
scene. Despite the glory days of the 70‘s <strong>and</strong> 80‘s long gone,<br />
the event has had some changes over the years but th<strong>in</strong>gs<br />
are on the improve. For the very best <strong>in</strong> Croatian music, then<br />
this is a highlight as it cont<strong>in</strong>ues to attract the biggest names<br />
<strong>and</strong> draws the most attention.<br />
14.07 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday<br />
The 57th Split Summer Festival<br />
Prokurative (I-2), Peristyle (J-2), Cellars of the<br />
Diocletian‘s Palace (J-2), www.splitsko-ljeto.hr. A<br />
traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance <strong>and</strong><br />
music will be held <strong>in</strong> venues throughout historical centre of<br />
Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National<br />
Theatre <strong>in</strong> Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre<br />
<strong>and</strong> dance perfomances from Croatia <strong>and</strong> abroad.<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
15.07 Friday - 17.07 Sunday<br />
xSTatic<br />
Riva, Marjan Hill, Žnjan Beach, O‘Hara, xstaticfest.<br />
com. Steer<strong>in</strong>g away from the ma<strong>in</strong>stream this International<br />
Festival of Urban Culture is jam packed with goodies <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g<br />
masters <strong>in</strong> graffiti art, skateboard, BMX, break-dance <strong>and</strong><br />
street basketball competitions. Musically, hip-hop <strong>and</strong> rap<br />
artists from this region <strong>in</strong>clude Dječaci, Marcelo <strong>and</strong> Filteri<br />
<strong>and</strong> the duo Timbe <strong>and</strong> Ajs Nigrut<strong>in</strong>.<br />
19.07 Tuesday - 23.07 Saturday<br />
Atlantis Festival<br />
Đard<strong>in</strong> Park, Gripe Fortress, www.atlantisfestival.hr.<br />
This is a daredevil paradise people! A festival of skateboard<br />
culture will offer visitors a cultural, musical <strong>and</strong> competitive<br />
<strong>in</strong>sight <strong>in</strong>to the skate scene. The wider audience will also<br />
enjoy a top rate 2-days music programme by Croatian <strong>and</strong><br />
foreign b<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> DJs.<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
15.07 - 17.07 xSTatic festival (Archives)<br />
cultuRe & eVeNts<br />
21.07 - 23.07 Ethnoambient Salona, photo by Bartosz<br />
Madejski<br />
21.07 Thursday - 23.07 Saturday<br />
Ethnoambient Salona<br />
Grad<strong>in</strong>a, Sol<strong>in</strong>, www.ethnoambient.net. The spirit of<br />
this event is global whilst it firmly rema<strong>in</strong>s local. This yearly<br />
gather<strong>in</strong>g truly def<strong>in</strong>es how diverse world music really is. It<br />
presents musicians who get their <strong>in</strong>spiration <strong>in</strong> comb<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g<br />
traditional <strong>and</strong> contemporary music from their countries of<br />
orig<strong>in</strong>. Hear sounds from around the globe with this musical<br />
celebration of cultural differences! This year it means you will<br />
hear the sounds of Reunion with Danyel Waro, Gambia with<br />
JuJu (Just<strong>in</strong> Adams <strong>and</strong> Juldeh Camara), Italy with Canzoniere<br />
Grecanico Salent<strong>in</strong>o <strong>and</strong> Croatia with Veja <strong>and</strong> Kries.<br />
30.07 Saturday<br />
David Guetta<br />
F-3, Žnjan Beach. The biggest open air spectacle to be held<br />
on the Adriatic coast this year with the biggest commercial<br />
dance hit maker <strong>in</strong> recent years, ‘David Guetta‘. This maestro<br />
beh<strong>in</strong>d turn-tables comes to Split <strong>and</strong> the larger the arena,<br />
the wilder the spectacle on the dance floor. Guetta graces<br />
the hallowed stage at Split‘s legendary Žnjan Beach <strong>in</strong> what<br />
is said to be a performance to remember with up to 50,000<br />
visitors able to attend. Let the music take control under the<br />
starry summer nights amidst an amaz<strong>in</strong>g light <strong>and</strong> sound<br />
show. Q Start at 21:00. Tickets 270 - 450kn available at<br />
www.eventim.hr.<br />
04.08 Thursday - 06.08 Saturday<br />
Enter - Summer Music Festival<br />
D-3, Bačvice Beach, www.enter-festival.com. Ibiza eat<br />
your heart out as the new Enter Summer Music Festival will<br />
have patrons bopp<strong>in</strong>g to the beats all day <strong>and</strong> night. Two days,<br />
two stages <strong>and</strong> thirty <strong>in</strong>ternational DJ‘s sp<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g tunes at the<br />
famous Bačvice Beach! Hear the sounds of Axwell <strong>and</strong> other<br />
DJ‘s do<strong>in</strong>g what they do best!<br />
Culture Centres<br />
Alliance Fra<strong>in</strong>caise I-2, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 34 72 90, <strong>in</strong>fo@alliance-francaise-split.com,<br />
www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Q Open 08:00<br />
- 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
MKC-Multimedia Culture Centre (Multimedijalni<br />
kulturni centar) D/E-2, Savska bb, tel. (+385-21)<br />
53 74 49/(+385-21) 53 74 71, mkcsplit@mkcsplit.<br />
hr, www.mkcsplit.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Summer 2011<br />
9
10 cultuRe & eVeNts<br />
The Dalmatian Klapa<br />
If the coastal regions of Croatia had a musical trademark<br />
then it would undoubtedly be the stirr<strong>in</strong>g sound of<br />
the klapa. Perform<strong>in</strong>g a capella songs with delicate<br />
harmonies, the klapa is basically a small choir number<strong>in</strong>g<br />
anyth<strong>in</strong>g from three members upwards. Often made up<br />
of <strong>in</strong>formal groups of friends with an <strong>in</strong>st<strong>in</strong>ctual feel for<br />
age-old Adriatic melodies, these choirs are an important<br />
focus of local life <strong>and</strong> a source of considerable pride for<br />
the communities they come from.<br />
Typical klapa songs focus on traditional Adriatic concerns:<br />
fall<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> love over a plate of squid, go<strong>in</strong>g night fish<strong>in</strong>g<br />
with the lads, or p<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g for partners who are sail<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
seven seas. Although klapa harmonies tend towards the<br />
smooth <strong>and</strong> soulful, the style reta<strong>in</strong>s a raw emotional<br />
edge: hear<strong>in</strong>g a klapa perform live - whether on stage at<br />
a festival or simply serenad<strong>in</strong>g themselves at the table<br />
of a konoba - can send shivers down the sp<strong>in</strong>e.<br />
Best places to experience klapa s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g at its best are<br />
the Omiš Klapa Festival (www.fdk.hr), which features<br />
outdoor concerts <strong>in</strong> the centre of Omiš throughout the<br />
month of July; or at the Dalmatian Song Even<strong>in</strong>gs (Večeri<br />
dalmat<strong>in</strong>ske pisme; www.vdp.hr) <strong>in</strong> Kaštel Kambelovac<br />
<strong>in</strong> early July.<br />
12.08 Friday<br />
Discotheque Riva<br />
The Split Riva is literally turned <strong>in</strong>to an outdoor club with<br />
20,000 punters hopp<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> bopp<strong>in</strong>g the night away. Famous<br />
British electronic act ‘Faithless Sound System‘ headl<strong>in</strong>e this<br />
year‘s event <strong>and</strong> is supported by Dutch DJ Fedde Le Gr<strong>and</strong>,<br />
Felix Da Housecat <strong>and</strong> undoubtedly the most sought after<br />
British DJ at the moment James Zabiel. Spend the night under<br />
the stars duck<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> weav<strong>in</strong>g the spectacular laser show on<br />
h<strong>and</strong>. Q Tickets 100 - 500kn available at www.eventim.<br />
19.08 Friday - 22.08 Monday<br />
Days of Diocletian<br />
The Emperor Diocletian returns <strong>and</strong> will we see his wrath<br />
once more. In a splendid re-enactment of ancient rule, for<br />
four nights citizens dressed <strong>in</strong> costume w<strong>and</strong>er along the<br />
city streets as the Emperor himself is led by carriage by an<br />
entourage of guards to the Peristyle. Embrace the past with<br />
gladiator performances, s<strong>in</strong>gers <strong>and</strong> a street music festival.<br />
Dig <strong>and</strong> delve <strong>in</strong>to the Roman feast by tast<strong>in</strong>g delicacies<br />
made from natural local <strong>in</strong>gredients (honey, fruit, vegetables,<br />
shellfish, <strong>and</strong> spices) as prepared accord<strong>in</strong>g to traditional<br />
old recipes.<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
10.09 - 17.09 Split Film Festival - International Festival of New Film<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
02.06 - 30.06 Velimir Trnski: Act<br />
23.08 Tuesday - 25.08 Thursday<br />
Jazz Festival<br />
I-2, Riva. You may escape the heat temporarily but this<br />
annual jazz event ought to turn it up a notch. Come on down<br />
to the Split Riva as a l<strong>in</strong>e-up of both national <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />
jazz musicians are sure to get you tapp<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> danc<strong>in</strong>g to this<br />
smooth yet up-beat style of music.<br />
27.08 Saturday - 05.09 Monday<br />
MAGfestival<br />
J-2, City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.udrugamag.<br />
com. For the 2nd year <strong>in</strong> a row, as organized by the Young<br />
Academic Musicians Association, a chamber music festival<br />
will be held at the beautiful venue of the Gothic Hall of the Split<br />
City Museum. By purchas<strong>in</strong>g a ticket, visitors will not only be<br />
able to participate <strong>in</strong> the concert but will also be able to visit<br />
the Split City Museum <strong>and</strong> see the permanent display of the<br />
Emanuel Vidović Gallery.<br />
cultuRe & eVeNts<br />
More fun...<br />
02.06 Thursday - 30.06 Thursday<br />
Velimir Trnski: Act<br />
J-2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-)<br />
091 454 66 66.<br />
07.06 Tuesday - 24.06 Friday<br />
Croatian Press Photo 2010<br />
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.<br />
fotoklubsplit.hr.<br />
14.06 Tuesday - 28.06 Tuesday<br />
An exhibition cycle of young authors: Voj<strong>in</strong><br />
Hraste<br />
J-2, Split Art Gallery, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 35 01 11, www.galum.hr.<br />
14.06 Tuesday - 05.07 Tuesday<br />
Daša Milatić: Zimmer Frei<br />
I-2, Alliance Fra<strong>in</strong>caise, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-21)<br />
34 72 90, <strong>in</strong>fo@alliance-francaise-split.com, www.<br />
alliance-francaise-split.com. Acrylics exhibition.<br />
27.06 Monday - 07.07. Thursday<br />
Claire Vallet: Solo exhibition<br />
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.<br />
fotoklubsplit.hr.<br />
06.07 Wednesday - 02.08 Tuesday<br />
Ivan Listeš: A Split Odyssey 2011<br />
I-2, Alliance Fra<strong>in</strong>caise, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 34 72 90, <strong>in</strong>fo@alliance-francaise-split.com,<br />
www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Oils exhibition.<br />
09.07 Saturday - 16.07 Saturday<br />
Goran Ivanišević - 10 years s<strong>in</strong>ce w<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Wimbledon (photos of his welcome)<br />
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.<br />
fotoklubsplit.hr. Photo exhibition.<br />
14.07 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday<br />
Safet Zec<br />
J-2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-)<br />
091 454 66 66.<br />
18.07 Monday - 06.08 Saturday<br />
Brkan brothers: Retrospective<br />
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.<br />
fotoklubsplit.hr.<br />
07.08 Sunday - 24.08 Wednesday<br />
Göks<strong>in</strong> Sipahioglu: The Best off Göks<strong>in</strong><br />
Sipahioglu<br />
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.<br />
fotoklubsplit.hr.<br />
03.08 Wednesday - 09.09 Friday<br />
Frane Longo: Kalafati malešne flote<br />
I-2, Alliance Fra<strong>in</strong>caise, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 34 72 90, <strong>in</strong>fo@alliance-francaise-split.com,<br />
www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Exhibition of<br />
Model Ships.<br />
03.08 Wednesday - 09.09 Friday<br />
Sanja Šurlan: All the colors of the<br />
Mediterranean<br />
I-2, Alliance Fra<strong>in</strong>caise, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 34 72 90, <strong>in</strong>fo@alliance-francaise-split.com,<br />
www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Oils exhibition.<br />
25.08 Thursday - 05.09 Monday<br />
Željko Ferenčić: Solo exhibition<br />
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.<br />
fotoklubsplit.hr.<br />
06.09 Tuesday - 21.09 Wednesday<br />
Nick Veasey: X-Ray Photos<br />
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.<br />
fotoklubsplit.hr.<br />
22.09 Thursday - 07.10 Friday<br />
Vedran Marketić: Solo exhibition<br />
I-2, Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5, www.<br />
fotoklubsplit.hr.<br />
Summer 2011<br />
11
12 cultuRe & eVeNts<br />
Art Deco <strong>in</strong> Croatia<br />
The exhibition “Art Deco<br />
<strong>in</strong> Croatia <strong>in</strong> the Interwar<br />
Period” at the Museum<br />
of Arts <strong>and</strong> Crafts <strong>in</strong><br />
Zagreb has been so<br />
well received both at<br />
home <strong>and</strong> abroad that<br />
it has been extended<br />
until 28 August 2011.<br />
This gives tourists<br />
visit<strong>in</strong>g Zagreb over the<br />
summer the chance to<br />
see one of the most<br />
popular exhibitions<br />
here <strong>in</strong> recent years,<br />
while students <strong>and</strong> art<br />
lovers can still arrange<br />
their trip to Zagreb to<br />
visit the exhibition.<br />
By the end of May 2011<br />
more than 45,000<br />
Art Deco, Božidar Kocmut,<br />
Poster<br />
people had visited the exhibition. You can see over 750<br />
art works <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs, graphics, sculpture <strong>and</strong><br />
applied arts featur<strong>in</strong>g fashion <strong>and</strong> furniture design <strong>and</strong><br />
more. It has been written about by France’s Le Figaro<br />
<strong>and</strong> received extensive radio coverage <strong>in</strong> the Spanishspeak<strong>in</strong>g<br />
world as evidence that the “roar<strong>in</strong>g twenties”<br />
was alive <strong>and</strong> kick<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Croatia too.<br />
Art Deco, Set, Italy<br />
You can watch <strong>in</strong>formative presentations on the Art Deco<br />
period on Wednesdays; while on Thursdays there is live<br />
music <strong>in</strong> the spirit of 20s cabaret, <strong>and</strong> the museum is<br />
open until 22:00. On Saturdays <strong>and</strong> Sundays there are<br />
workshops for children. Everyone will enjoy the chance<br />
to buy replicas <strong>and</strong> other souvenirs, a catalogue, a DVD<br />
or an audio guide.<br />
Don’t miss this last chance to see a dazzl<strong>in</strong>g exhibition<br />
<strong>and</strong> to learn more about Zagreb’s art scene between the<br />
two world wars! Info at (+385-1) 488 21 11, (+385-1)<br />
488 21 25, www.muo.hr<br />
Art Deco, Shoes<br />
Buić Ritmizirani krug 1975<br />
Small galleries<br />
Galić Art Salon I-2, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/<br />
str/galic.htm. Q Open 10:00 -13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.<br />
Kula J-2, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 22,<br />
galerija.kula@gmail.com, www.galerija-kula.hr. Q Open<br />
09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Admission free.<br />
MKC Gallery D/E-2, Savska bb, Dom mladih, www.<br />
mkcsplit.hr. Q Open dur<strong>in</strong>g exhibition 10:00 - 13:00. Closed<br />
Sun. Admission free.<br />
Photo Club Split (Galerija fotografije fotokluba<br />
Split) I-2, Marmontova 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 75 97, <strong>in</strong>fo@<br />
fotoklubsplit.hr, www.fotoklubsplit.hr. Hugely enjoyable<br />
gallery of contemporary photography with an imag<strong>in</strong>ative<br />
programme of themed exhibitions, featur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />
photographers as well as works by members of the local<br />
photography club. Q Open 10:30 - 12:30 <strong>and</strong> 18:30 - 22:00,<br />
Sat 10:30 -13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.<br />
The cellars of Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanovi<br />
podrumi) I/J-3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/podrumi.htm.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 35kn.<br />
Kaštelančić Poslije kiše 1963<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Cream of the crop<br />
Atrium J-1, Domov<strong>in</strong>skog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20<br />
00 00, fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, <strong>in</strong>fo@hotel-atrium.hr,<br />
www.hotel-atrium.hr. You‘re not <strong>in</strong> the middle of the action if<br />
you‘re stay<strong>in</strong>g here, but the entire hotel is modern, luxurious,<br />
comfortable <strong>and</strong> nicely equipped, with pool, jacuzzi <strong>and</strong> free<br />
Internet. All the th<strong>in</strong>gs you want <strong>and</strong> expect from an upscale<br />
hotel are here. Q129 rooms (126 doubles €145 - 190, 3<br />
suites €480). PHA6UFLGKDChhhhh<br />
Upmarket<br />
Art D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02,<br />
fax (+385-21) 30 23 00, prodaja@arthotel.hr, www.<br />
arthotel.hr. If you‘re a bus<strong>in</strong>ess traveler with access to a car,<br />
this cube-shaped, modern hotel is a solid choice. Without a<br />
car, you‘ll be a fifteen m<strong>in</strong>ute walk from the old town but either<br />
way, you‘ll have an exceed<strong>in</strong>gly comfortable <strong>and</strong> stylishlydecorated<br />
room with Internet access <strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>in</strong> the price.<br />
Q36 rooms (36 s<strong>in</strong>gles €125, 36 doubles €165, 36 triples<br />
€185). PHAULGBKhhhh<br />
Dalm<strong>in</strong>a E-1, Kopilica 5, tel. (+385-21) 35 00 00,<br />
fax (+385-21) 35 00 01, <strong>in</strong>fo@hoteldalm<strong>in</strong>a.hr, www.<br />
hoteldalm<strong>in</strong>a.hr. The location is a bit drab <strong>and</strong> off the<br />
beaten path, but everyth<strong>in</strong>g you need for a decent stay<br />
is on offer: Internet, free on-site park<strong>in</strong>g, complimentary<br />
breakfast <strong>and</strong> more. Q52 rooms (30 s<strong>in</strong>gles €89, 30<br />
doubles €121, 18 Tw<strong>in</strong> Rooms €121, 4 Family Rooms €164).<br />
PHAULKhhhh<br />
Globo D-2, Lovretska 18, tel. (+385-21) 48 11 11,<br />
fax (+385-21) 48 11 18, <strong>in</strong>fo@hotelglobo.com, www.<br />
hotelgobo.com. A four-star hotel that lives up to its<br />
classification, Globo has a relatively decent location,<br />
exceed<strong>in</strong>gly helpful <strong>and</strong> cheerful staff <strong>and</strong> a breakfast that<br />
usually doesn‘t fail to satisfy. Q33 rooms (28 s<strong>in</strong>gles €139,<br />
28 doubles €178, 5 triples €217). PHA6LNGK<br />
hhhh<br />
Luxe D-3, Kralja Zvonimira 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 44 44,<br />
fax (+385-21) 31 44 45, reservations@hotelluxesplit.<br />
com, www.hotelluxesplit.com. Location, location! An<br />
exclusive new four star hotel close to the Diocletian Palace,<br />
bus <strong>and</strong> tra<strong>in</strong>s station. This is not your everyday hotel, it is a<br />
luxury boutique hotel with attention paid to every detail. It has<br />
modern rooms with a Mediterranean feel, a restaurant, a cigar<br />
bar, <strong>and</strong> wellness amidst quality all-round service. The exterior<br />
is superbly designed blend<strong>in</strong>g the ancient stone that def<strong>in</strong>es<br />
Split with a splurge of modernism. Sleek <strong>and</strong> stylish! Pets<br />
allowed on payment of 7€ per night <strong>and</strong> a one-off payment<br />
of 14€ for clean<strong>in</strong>g the room. Q30 rooms (3 s<strong>in</strong>gles €123<br />
- 156, 24 doubles €126 - 230, 2 Deluxe Suites €356 - 412,<br />
1 Prestige Suite €246 - 302). PHA6UFLGXW<br />
hhhh<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air condition<strong>in</strong>g A Credit cards accepted<br />
O Cas<strong>in</strong>o H Conference facilities<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R Internet L Guarded park<strong>in</strong>g<br />
F Fitness centre G Non-smok<strong>in</strong>g rooms<br />
K Restaurant C Swimm<strong>in</strong>g pool<br />
D Sauna 6 Animal friendly<br />
Reserve a room at<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
WheRe to stay<br />
Summer 2011<br />
13
14 WheRe to stay<br />
Marmont I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60/<br />
(+385-) 091 629 01 99, fax. (+385-21) 30 80 70,<br />
book<strong>in</strong>g@marmonthotel.com, www.marmonthotel.com.<br />
Boutique hotel <strong>in</strong> an old stone house with imag<strong>in</strong>ative modern<br />
add-ons (the breakfast room is an attractive triangular wedge).<br />
All rooms have parquet floors, creamy colour schemes <strong>and</strong><br />
views of neighbour<strong>in</strong>g, green-shuttered build<strong>in</strong>gs. There is a<br />
reasonable amount of desk space, big TVs, <strong>and</strong> wifi coverage<br />
throughout. The classy modern bathrooms come with either<br />
bath or shower cubicle - although even the latter are pretty<br />
spacious <strong>and</strong> seem to have been made with splash<strong>in</strong>g around<br />
as a twosome <strong>in</strong> m<strong>in</strong>d. Q22 rooms (21 s<strong>in</strong>gles €157 - 178,<br />
21 doubles €230 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite €1270 - 1805).<br />
PALGhhhh<br />
Park D-3, Hatzeov perivoj 3, tel. (+385-21) 40 64 00,<br />
fax. (+385-21) 40 64 01, sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www.<br />
hotelpark-split.hr. For an upscale establishment with over<br />
fifty rooms, the amenities have made themselves relatively<br />
scarce through the eighty-seven years of this hotel‘s life.<br />
There‘s no pool, the rooms‘ bathrooms are small <strong>and</strong> service<br />
can be a bit slow. The location close to Bačvice <strong>and</strong> the quiet<br />
atmosphere make up for these small problems though, <strong>and</strong><br />
the outdoor terrace, accented by gently sway<strong>in</strong>g palm trees,<br />
is hard not to love. Pets can stay by arrangement. Q57<br />
rooms (21 s<strong>in</strong>gles €124 - 145, 33 doubles €162 - 198, 2<br />
apartments €317 - 359, 1 Presidential Suite €421 - 455).<br />
PHA6ULGBKDhhhh<br />
President D-2, Starčevićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 30 52 22,<br />
fax. (+385-21) 30 52 25, hotel.president@st.t-com.hr,<br />
www.hotelpresident.hr. Just outside the walls of the old<br />
town near the Croatian National Theatre st<strong>and</strong>s the President,<br />
a comfy hotel with stylish decorations <strong>in</strong> earthy, natural<br />
tones. Double rooms can be a bit small but if you need more<br />
space to stretch out, the deluxe double should do the trick.<br />
Q73 rooms (8 s<strong>in</strong>gles €127, 55 doubles €167 - 233, 10<br />
Presidential Suites €253 - 368). PHA6ULGBK<br />
hhhh<br />
Vestibul Palace J-2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32<br />
93 29, fax. (+385-21) 32 93 33, <strong>in</strong>fo@vestibulpalace.<br />
com, www.vestibulpalace.com. The rooms here are a<br />
hip homage to ancient <strong>and</strong> modern, with rooms decorated<br />
<strong>in</strong> black, brown <strong>and</strong> beige, contrasted <strong>in</strong> suites 3 <strong>and</strong> 6 with<br />
the orig<strong>in</strong>al Roman walls that st<strong>and</strong> exposed. The modernity<br />
<strong>and</strong> hipness are never taken far enough to make the hotel<br />
uncomfortable, however, mak<strong>in</strong>g this the most sought-after<br />
<strong>and</strong> exclusive name for Split‘s visit<strong>in</strong>g elite. Q11 rooms<br />
(4 s<strong>in</strong>gles €147 - 214, 5 doubles €175 - 293, 1 suites<br />
€324 - 432, 1 Junior Suite €248 - 340). PALGBK<br />
hhhh<br />
Mid-range<br />
Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, fax. (+385-21) 34 00 08, <strong>in</strong>fo@<br />
hotel-adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. Perhaps the<br />
proprietors rely a bit too much on their Riva-front location to<br />
sell their hotel, as some of the rooms are on the small side<br />
<strong>and</strong> the service has been known to be a bit curt. All <strong>in</strong> all, this<br />
one is more than adequate for a few nights <strong>and</strong> the location<br />
is nearly perfect. Q15 rooms (2 s<strong>in</strong>gles 700kn, 11 doubles<br />
950kn, 2 apartments 1200 - 1400kn). PABKhhh<br />
Split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
F<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with<br />
Split In Your Pocket <strong>and</strong> Book<strong>in</strong>g.com. Simply surf our<br />
conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably<br />
updated <strong>in</strong>fo on facilities, ambience <strong>and</strong> price… click the<br />
button <strong>and</strong> hey presto! You’re through to our reservations<br />
site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot<br />
is hot to trot, <strong>and</strong> off you go!<br />
Consul D-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30,<br />
fax (+385-21) 34 01 33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr,<br />
www.hotel-consul.net. Perhaps a bit pricey consider<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the services on offer, but clean, comfortable <strong>and</strong> friendly<br />
nonetheless. The hotel appears to have been converted from<br />
an old apartment build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> is situated <strong>in</strong> a quiet, residential<br />
area fifteen m<strong>in</strong>utes‘ walk from the center. Q19 rooms (4<br />
s<strong>in</strong>gles €90, 9 doubles €130, 2 triples €150, 4 apartments<br />
€205). PHALGBKhhh<br />
Kastel I-2, Mihovilova šir<strong>in</strong>a 5, tel./fax (+385-21) 34<br />
39 12, tel. (+385-) 091 120 03 48, <strong>in</strong>fo@kastelsplit.<br />
com, www.kastelsplit.com. One of the best value small<br />
guesthouses <strong>in</strong> the city, this tall build<strong>in</strong>g sits at the southwest<br />
corner of the palace <strong>and</strong> is operated professionally <strong>and</strong><br />
efficiently. Q9 rooms (1 s<strong>in</strong>gles €80 - 90, 2 doubles €110<br />
- 115, 1 triples €150 - 155, 2 apartments €184 - 200, 1<br />
Studio Apartment €125 - 135, 2 Tw<strong>in</strong> Rooms €110 - 115).<br />
PAGhhh<br />
More F-3, Šetalište pape Ivana Pavla ll 27/l, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 46 21 12, fax. (+385-21) 46 22 01, hotelmore@<br />
hotelmore.hr, www.hotelmore.hr. Hotel More is actually<br />
a bed <strong>and</strong> breakfast that operates <strong>in</strong> an <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g cascadestyle<br />
build<strong>in</strong>g on the waterfront, a short walk from the old<br />
town. The vibe is calm, comfortable <strong>and</strong> relaxed. Q9 rooms<br />
(8 s<strong>in</strong>gles €85 - 107, 8 doubles €107 - 130, 1 suites €117 -<br />
159). PAULGhhh<br />
Peristil J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. (+385-21) 32<br />
90 70, fax. (+385-21) 32 90 88, book<strong>in</strong>g@hotelperistil.<br />
com, www.hotelperistil.com. Given the excellent<br />
furnish<strong>in</strong>gs, superior location <strong>and</strong> lovely view from the terrace<br />
on the roof, you might be pleasantly surprised to discover<br />
that the cost for a night at the Peristil isn‘t anywhere <strong>in</strong> the<br />
neighbourhood of an arm <strong>and</strong> a leg. An added bonus is the<br />
excellent Tifani Restaurant on the ground floor, where chefs<br />
whip up food <strong>in</strong> open kitchens. Q12 rooms (3 s<strong>in</strong>gles €135,<br />
9 doubles €162). PA6BKhhh<br />
Slavija I-2, Andrije Buv<strong>in</strong>e 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 38 40,<br />
fax. (+385-21) 32 38 68, <strong>in</strong>fo@hotelslavija.hr, www.<br />
hotelslavija.hr. Slavija‘s stellar location <strong>in</strong> the palace <strong>and</strong><br />
recent renovations are its big draws, but the location can<br />
also be a thorn <strong>in</strong> the side of those who treasure their beauty<br />
sleep. The loudest <strong>and</strong> rowdiest bars <strong>in</strong> the old town are<br />
located nearby. Q25 rooms (2 s<strong>in</strong>gles 800kn, 17 doubles<br />
1000 - 1150kn, 4 triples 1100 - 1250kn, 1 4-bedded room<br />
1370kn, 1 5-bedded room 1470kn). PA6LGhhh<br />
As E-1, Kopilica 8a, tel. (+385-21) 36 61 00, fax.<br />
(+385-21) 36 61 11, <strong>in</strong>fo@hotelas-split.com, www.<br />
hotelas-split.com. If you‘re will<strong>in</strong>g to travel a bit to get to it,<br />
this is another solid choice on the outskirts of town. A modern<br />
build<strong>in</strong>g with the expected additions to make for a pleasant<br />
<strong>and</strong> comfortable stay. Q33 rooms (33 s<strong>in</strong>gles 600kn, 33<br />
doubles 800kn). PALKhhh<br />
Old-School charm<br />
Bellevue I-2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21) 34<br />
56 44, fax (+385-21) 36 23 83, bellevue@<strong>in</strong>et.hr, www.<br />
hotel-bellevue-split.hr. Today‘s hotel Bellevue is located<br />
on the Riva next to the church of Sa<strong>in</strong>t Francis <strong>and</strong> on the<br />
south-west w<strong>in</strong>g of the Prokurative. It was once a hotel offer<strong>in</strong>g<br />
curative baths to guests whilst its café was a meet<strong>in</strong>g place<br />
for rich clientele. In 1906, it received its name „Gr<strong>and</strong> hotel<br />
Bellevue“, <strong>and</strong> was later renovated <strong>in</strong> 1934. Famous writers<br />
such as Anatole France, George Bernard Shaw <strong>and</strong> Agatha<br />
Christie have all lodged here. Today‘s hotel offers comfortable<br />
accommodation <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>cludes the Noštromo restaurant.<br />
Q50 rooms (13 s<strong>in</strong>gles 620kn, 34 doubles 850kn, 3 triples<br />
1062kn, 3 apartments 1116kn). ALBKhhh<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com
16 WheRe to stay<br />
The Inhabitants of Split<br />
To the outside visitor, the citizens of Split – referred to<br />
as Splićani – are homogenous group of people. There<br />
are, however, a few dist<strong>in</strong>ct groups that exist <strong>in</strong> the<br />
social l<strong>and</strong>scape. The first, <strong>and</strong> oldest, group of people<br />
are the fetivi, the people descended from Split’s old<br />
urban families. They are characterized, stereotypically,<br />
by their unique way of talk<strong>in</strong>g, which is considered to be<br />
very fast. Split’s fetivi are complimented by the boduli,<br />
people orig<strong>in</strong>ally from the isl<strong>and</strong>s of the Adriatic who,<br />
aga<strong>in</strong> stereotypically, have a reputation for frugality,<br />
quick th<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> keep<strong>in</strong>g to themselves to themselves.<br />
Relatively recently, these two groups were jo<strong>in</strong>ed by<br />
the vlaji, who migrated to Split from other parts of<br />
Dalmatia <strong>and</strong> now populate the high-rises that encircle<br />
the city. The vlaji are the rough <strong>and</strong> tumble survivors,<br />
accustomed to hardships <strong>and</strong> the rougher side of life.<br />
The dist<strong>in</strong>ctions between these groups, however, are<br />
fad<strong>in</strong>g fast, especially consider<strong>in</strong>g the arrival of the<br />
latest social group to emerge <strong>in</strong> Split, namely an <strong>in</strong>flux<br />
of immigrants from Hercegov<strong>in</strong>a who came seek<strong>in</strong>g a<br />
new life <strong>in</strong> Croatia’s second largest city.<br />
Budget<br />
Dujam E-2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25,<br />
fax. (+385-21) 53 72 58, <strong>in</strong>fo@hoteldujam.com, www.<br />
hoteldujam.com. Sa<strong>in</strong>t Dujam (a.k.a. Doimus, Domnio <strong>and</strong><br />
Domnius), patron sa<strong>in</strong>t of Split, moonlights as the patron sa<strong>in</strong>t<br />
of budget travelers by lend<strong>in</strong>g his endorsement to this hotel,<br />
located about a fifteen m<strong>in</strong>ute walk from the center. Those<br />
keep<strong>in</strong>g a cautious eye on their cash flow will appreciate<br />
the clean rooms <strong>and</strong> functional furnish<strong>in</strong>gs. Q35 rooms (5<br />
s<strong>in</strong>gles €60 - 66, 28 doubles €79 - 93, 2 apartments €99 -<br />
112). PHALGKhh<br />
W<br />
Hostels<br />
Golly&Bossy I-2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 51 09 99, <strong>in</strong>fo@gollybossy.com, www.<br />
gollybossy.com. Have you ever been to a designer<br />
hostel? Kid you not, this will knock your socks off, it has<br />
escalators for all 3 floors, free WiFi all-round, a DJ booth,<br />
small theatre, kitchenette, a restaurant, a 15 meter bar<br />
with dr<strong>in</strong>ks aplenty, waterfront views <strong>and</strong> is literally less<br />
than a one m<strong>in</strong>ute walk to the waterfront. Price wise, it<br />
matches most other hotels but with features you would<br />
not believe! Q 150 dorm beds, 210 - 638kn per person.<br />
PJHABKW<br />
Silver Central I-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 49 08 05, silvercentralhostel@gmail.com,<br />
www.silvercentralhostel.com. Bright, high-ceil<strong>in</strong>ged<br />
apartment with a welcom<strong>in</strong>g reception/common room<br />
<strong>and</strong> a trio of 6- to 8-bed dorms, each with its own<br />
<strong>in</strong>ternet term<strong>in</strong>al. Q 27 dorm beds, 150 - 190kn per<br />
person. PJNW<br />
Silver Gate D-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28<br />
57/(+385-) 098 995 58 78, silvergatehostel@gmail.<br />
com, www.silvergatehostel.com. Run by the same<br />
team as Silver Central <strong>and</strong> offer<strong>in</strong>g pretty much the same<br />
deal, the hostel occupies an atmospheric apartment<br />
build<strong>in</strong>g with f<strong>in</strong>e views of the Palace‘s eastern gate. Q<br />
26 dorm beds, 150 - 190kn per person. PNW<br />
Split Hostel Booze <strong>and</strong> Snooze I-2, Narodni trg<br />
8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, <strong>in</strong>fo@splithostel.com,<br />
www.splithostel.com. Right round the corner from the<br />
medieval ma<strong>in</strong> square, this is a cute <strong>and</strong> cosy hostel run by<br />
a helpful <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>formative team. Soon to be open<strong>in</strong>g a new<br />
annexe a couple of streets away, complete with basement<br />
bar. Q 16 dorm beds, 12 - 25€ per person. PG<br />
Brač<br />
Agroresort Bračka Perla Put Vele luke 53, Supetar,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 75 55 30/(+385-) 091 335 29 49, fax.<br />
(+385-21) 75 55 47, book<strong>in</strong>g@perlacroatia.com, www.<br />
perlacroatia.com. Apartment! Hotel! When their powers<br />
comb<strong>in</strong>e, they form: Aparthotel Bračka Perla! But seriously<br />
folks! This is an absolutely genius choice if you‘re look<strong>in</strong>g<br />
for a touch of class dur<strong>in</strong>g your stay <strong>in</strong> Supetar. Eleven fully<br />
furnished rooms decked out with chic Italian furniture look<br />
out onto a lovely pool <strong>and</strong> deck area <strong>and</strong>, from the terrace,<br />
the sea <strong>and</strong> the isl<strong>and</strong>s stretch out <strong>in</strong>to the horizon. Plus,<br />
there‘s a sauna <strong>and</strong> gym on-site. Q11 rooms (5 doubles<br />
€315, 4 suites €400, 2 Junior Suites €365). PAFGDC<br />
hhhh<br />
Bluesun Hotel Borak Put Zlatnog rata bb, Bol, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 30 62 02, fax. (+385-21) 30 62 15, borak@<br />
bluesunhotels.com, www.bluesunhotels.com. The lush<br />
surround<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>and</strong> whopp<strong>in</strong>g 150 square meter pool are<br />
eye-catch<strong>in</strong>g. Not to mention the 184 modern guestrooms<br />
all decked with a balcony <strong>and</strong> essentials. Buffet meals<br />
are served throughout the day. Numerous complimentary<br />
specials are provided to all guests. Positioned 50 meters<br />
from the beach <strong>and</strong> close to the town centre. Prices are<br />
per person / per day. Q184 rooms (133 doubles €69<br />
- 86, 3 suites €80 - 117, 48 Family Rooms €80 - 117).<br />
PTAFLGKChhhh<br />
Dešković Palace Pučišća, Brač, tel. (+385-21) 77<br />
82 40, fax. (+385-21) 77 82 56, h.palaca-deskovic@<br />
st.t-com.hr, www.palaca-deskovic.com. This restored<br />
Renaissance palace from 1467 is a registered cultural<br />
monument. It has been transformed <strong>in</strong>to a luxurious four-star<br />
hotel. All rooms are fully equipped <strong>and</strong> guests can <strong>in</strong>dulge <strong>in</strong><br />
the hotel restaurant or aperitif bar. The menu is crammed<br />
with local cuis<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> home-brewed w<strong>in</strong>e. Q Open May -<br />
November. 13 rooms (6 St<strong>and</strong>ard Rooms €124 - 206, 7 Junior<br />
Suites €150 - 248). PA6LGBKhhhh<br />
Pastura Vrilo 28, Postira, tel. (+385-21) 74 00 00,<br />
fax. (+385-21) 63 21 09, pastura@st.t-com.hr, www.<br />
hotelpastura.hr. It‘s perfectly located on the promenade<br />
with ocean views from the restaurant or aperitif bar. Amenities<br />
<strong>in</strong>clude an outdoor fresh water pool, fitness hall, Jacuzzi, sauna<br />
<strong>and</strong> massage. Modern <strong>and</strong> set <strong>in</strong> peaceful surround<strong>in</strong>gs.<br />
Q50 rooms (31 doubles €44 - 82, 6 suites €48 - 86, 4<br />
apartments €52 - 135, 8 Junior Suites €46 - 84, 1 Presidential<br />
Suite €48 - 86). PTAUFLGBKDChhhh<br />
Waterman Svpetrvs Resort Put Vele Luke 4, Supetar,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 63 11 33, fax. (+385-21) 63 13 44,<br />
sales@watermanresorts.com, www.watermanresorts.<br />
com. Compris<strong>in</strong>g residences Kaktus, Villa Diana, Villa Maria,<br />
Meridien, Agava, Salvia <strong>and</strong> Olea the Svpetrvs Resort has a<br />
lot of th<strong>in</strong>gs go<strong>in</strong>g for it that might make it an irresistible choice<br />
while on Brač. Given the fact that it‘s part of a consortium of<br />
hotels, there are a load of services on-site that other hotels<br />
<strong>in</strong> the same price range simply cannot offer, like <strong>in</strong>door <strong>and</strong><br />
outdoor pools, an abundance of tennis courts <strong>and</strong> sports<br />
areas <strong>and</strong> a fitness <strong>and</strong> wellness center. It also happens to<br />
be located right on the beach. Prices are per person. Q440<br />
rooms (78 s<strong>in</strong>gles €100 - 131, 78 doubles €64 - 85, 277<br />
triples €64 - 85, 63 suites €92 - 116, 22 Junior Suites €73 -<br />
94). PTHAUFLGBKDChhhh<br />
Look<strong>in</strong>g for more?<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Hvar<br />
Croatia Majerovica bb, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 24 00,<br />
fax. (+385-21) 74 17 07, croatia-hvar@st.t-com.hr,<br />
www.hotelcroatia.net. Ah, tranquil surround<strong>in</strong>gs. Peace<br />
<strong>and</strong> quiet! Hotel Croatia has a laid-back atmosphere that<br />
you can enjoy from your seafront balcony or on the pebble<br />
beach the hotel has access to. This is a prime choice for<br />
travelers look<strong>in</strong>g to relax <strong>and</strong> soak up some rays. Q28<br />
rooms (22 doubles €70 - 170, 6 Family Rooms €135 - 195).<br />
PJAFLGBK hhh<br />
Riva Riva bb, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 75 01 00, fax.<br />
(+385-21) 75 07 51, reservations@suncanihvar.com,<br />
riva-reception@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.<br />
com. Ideal for s<strong>in</strong>gle travelers, party people or friends on<br />
a getaway together, the Riva is a boutique hotel, modern<br />
<strong>and</strong> chic through <strong>and</strong> through. Unfortunately, the rooms are<br />
rem<strong>in</strong>iscient of seats on an economy class flight: slightly<br />
cramped <strong>and</strong> uncomfortable after long periods of time.<br />
There are even, <strong>in</strong>explicably, see-through glass w<strong>in</strong>dows on<br />
the toilet <strong>and</strong> shower. Come mentally prepared for these<br />
details, <strong>and</strong> you‘ll have a blast rock<strong>in</strong>g out <strong>in</strong> the bar on<br />
the ground floor or relax<strong>in</strong>g on the patio fac<strong>in</strong>g the harbour.<br />
Q54 rooms (46 doubles €167 - 325, 8 suites €253 - 526).<br />
PA6UGKhhhh<br />
The Palace Trg Sv. Stjepana, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 19<br />
66, fax. (+385-21) 75 07 51, reservations@suncanihvar.<br />
com, palace@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.com.<br />
If you were to build a palace of your own, you just might choose<br />
to build it on the exact space that this hotel occupies, right<br />
on the harbour on the sunny isl<strong>and</strong> of Hvar. You probably<br />
wouldn‘t, however, choose to deck it out with quite the same<br />
furniture or decorations. If you choose to brave the dated<br />
<strong>in</strong>terior, make sure you ask for a room with a view. Q73<br />
rooms (4 s<strong>in</strong>gles €53 - 75, 57 doubles €84 - 194, 12 suites<br />
€135 - 238). PHA6GKChhh<br />
Vis<br />
Biševo Ribarska 72, Komiža, tel. (+385-21) 71 32 79/<br />
(+385-21) 71 31 44, fax (+385-21) 71 30 98, <strong>in</strong>fo@hotelbisevo.com,<br />
www.hotel-bisevo.com. Probably the best<br />
bet <strong>in</strong> tranquil Komiža, this functional <strong>and</strong> comfortable hotel<br />
comes with some h<strong>and</strong>y pluses like satellite TV <strong>and</strong> a balcony<br />
for every room. Prices are per person / per day. Q130<br />
rooms (2 s<strong>in</strong>gles 310 - 480kn, 123 doubles 240 - 370kn, 5<br />
apartments 300 - 463kn). PTALBKhh<br />
Issa Šetalište A.Zanelle 5, Vis, tel. (+385-21) 71 11 24,<br />
fax. (+385-21) 71 17 40, hotel-issa@vis-hoteli.hr, www.<br />
vis-hoteli.hr. While it is located just a stone‘s throw from<br />
the center of Vis Town, the hotel is still surrounded by plenty<br />
of green <strong>and</strong> lots of clear, sparkl<strong>in</strong>g water. Every room has a<br />
balcony look<strong>in</strong>g out onto the bay. Prices are per person / per<br />
day. Q125 rooms (125 s<strong>in</strong>gles 310 - 575kn, 125 doubles<br />
235 - 460kn). PALBK hhh<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
WheRe to stay<br />
Kaštela<br />
Adria Dr. Franje Tuđmana 969, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 79 81 40, fax (+385-21) 79 81 50, <strong>in</strong>fo@hotel-adria.<br />
hr, www.hotel-adria.hr. If wak<strong>in</strong>g up for that 06:00am flight<br />
<strong>in</strong>timidates you a bit, Hotel Adria‘s location can afford you a<br />
few extra w<strong>in</strong>ks the night before <strong>and</strong> has comfortable rooms<br />
<strong>and</strong> a pleasant staff to boot. If the sound of planes tak<strong>in</strong>g<br />
off <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g distracts you, close the w<strong>in</strong>dows, crank up<br />
the AC <strong>and</strong> the noise virtually disappears. Q11 rooms (2<br />
s<strong>in</strong>gles €51 - 61, 5 doubles €72 - 86, 4 triples €100 - 116).<br />
PALBKhhh<br />
Podstrana<br />
Le Meridien Lav Grljevačka 2a, Podstrana, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 50 05 00, fax (+385-21) 50 03 00, reservations_<br />
split@lemeridien.com, www.lemeridien.com/split.<br />
Br<strong>and</strong> new <strong>and</strong> exclusive with 381 guest rooms <strong>and</strong> suites.<br />
Set on a mar<strong>in</strong>a promenade; expect to be dazzled by the<br />
multitude of restaurants, bars, cafes, plus cas<strong>in</strong>o, sports<br />
bar <strong>and</strong> nightclub. Furthermore, the recreational complex<br />
<strong>and</strong> the astound<strong>in</strong>g Diocletian Spa <strong>and</strong> Wellness Centre are<br />
state of the art. With over 800m of beach frontage, it really<br />
is paradise. This ultra-modern new hotel complex is located<br />
8km from the centre of Split. Q381 rooms (370 s<strong>in</strong>gles<br />
€290, 370 doubles €330 - 480, 2 Diplomatic Suites €1300,<br />
2 Family Suites €700, 5 Junior Suites €650, 2 Presidential<br />
Suites €2200). POTHA6UFLGBKDCW<br />
hhhhh<br />
San Antonio Grljevačka 30, Podstrana, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 33 61 11, fax (+385-21) 33 53 48, <strong>in</strong>fo@hotelsanantonio.com,<br />
www.hotel-sanantonio.com. The words<br />
“San Antonio” cull up images of Texas, but Texas this is not.<br />
This particular San Antonio is a four-star hotel right on the<br />
beach <strong>in</strong> Podstrana, 8km from the old town. High-speed<br />
Internet is available, along with a whole list of other amenities.<br />
Ideal for long sessions of quiet chill<strong>in</strong>g on the beach. Q23<br />
rooms (15 s<strong>in</strong>gles €155 - 170, 15 doubles €190 - 210, 15<br />
triples €220 - 245, 6 suites €200 - 325, 2 Penthouses €240<br />
- 275). PHAFLGBKDC hhhh<br />
Trogir<br />
Pašike S<strong>in</strong>jska bb, Trogir, tel. (+385-21) 88 51 85/<br />
(+385-) 091 484 84 34, fax (+385-21) 79 77 29, <strong>in</strong>fo@<br />
hotelpasike.com, www.hotelpasike.com. While the<br />
amenities <strong>and</strong> services are thoroughly modern, the decor<br />
<strong>and</strong> the rich wood furniture is thoroughly 19th <strong>and</strong> early 20th<br />
century, mak<strong>in</strong>g this one of most the <strong>in</strong>trigu<strong>in</strong>g hotel choices <strong>in</strong><br />
the area. Q14 rooms (2 s<strong>in</strong>gles 600kn, 11 doubles 800kn,<br />
1 apartments 1200kn). PAGBKhhhh<br />
Summer 2011<br />
17
18 RestauRaNts<br />
International<br />
Aci Grašo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85<br />
60, restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com, www.adriatic-graso.<br />
com. With a view of the ACI mar<strong>in</strong>a from its d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g room, the<br />
Aci Grašo has an extravagant <strong>in</strong>ner charm about it. Try any<br />
of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. D<strong>in</strong>e<br />
with f<strong>in</strong>e w<strong>in</strong>e as you l<strong>in</strong>ger over the views <strong>and</strong> visit the cigar<br />
bar. Park<strong>in</strong>g is free. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 110kn).<br />
PAGB<br />
Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, <strong>in</strong>fo@adriana.hr, www.hoteladriana.hr.<br />
This sprawl<strong>in</strong>g restaurant on the Riva always<br />
attracts a crowd. Why? It‘s a prime location for people<br />
watch<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or<br />
any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends<br />
<strong>and</strong> sometimes on weekdays come summer time. Fairly<br />
priced! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 160kn). PAGB<br />
Apetit I-2, Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-)<br />
098 173 07 36, apetit.split@gmail.com, www.apetitsplit.hr.<br />
Apetit is geared both visually <strong>and</strong> cul<strong>in</strong>arily towards<br />
a modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the<br />
first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful<br />
bare stone walls highlighted with an uplift<strong>in</strong>g green colour,<br />
<strong>and</strong> is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian classics are<br />
prepared <strong>in</strong> a pleas<strong>in</strong>gly simple way with just a twist to br<strong>in</strong>g<br />
them up to date. There are vegetarian choices, <strong>and</strong> top<br />
quality w<strong>in</strong>e is served by the glass. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(60 - 100kn). PJAG<br />
Bistro Black Cat K-3, Šegvića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 02<br />
84/(+385-) 099 215 46 11, blackcat.bistro@gmail.com.<br />
Provid<strong>in</strong>g cul<strong>in</strong>ary diversity at a moderate price, Black Cat is<br />
a unique <strong>in</strong>stitution <strong>in</strong> Split, <strong>and</strong> is gather<strong>in</strong>g a grow<strong>in</strong>g army<br />
of devoted regulars as a result. The repertoire kicks off from<br />
lunchtime with s<strong>and</strong>wiches <strong>and</strong> salads, not to mention a ma<strong>in</strong>course<br />
menu that embraces Thai, Indonesian, Mediterranean<br />
<strong>and</strong> veggie options. A secluded outdoor terrace <strong>and</strong> affordable<br />
cocktails make it a good place to dr<strong>in</strong>k as well. Whatever you<br />
order, try <strong>and</strong> leave room for the outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g desserts, which<br />
are made <strong>in</strong>-house rather than ordered from the ma<strong>in</strong>stream<br />
bakeries. The more you travel around the Adriatic, the more<br />
you‘ll realise what a valuable cul<strong>in</strong>ary haven the Black Cat<br />
actually is. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 60kn).<br />
PAGB<br />
Boban E-3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. (+385-21) 54 33 00,<br />
<strong>in</strong>fo@restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban.<br />
com. The <strong>in</strong>door d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g room <strong>and</strong> outdoor terrace are<br />
beautiful sett<strong>in</strong>gs for the seafood <strong>and</strong> grilled meats prepared<br />
with traditional Croatian flair. The w<strong>in</strong>e list <strong>in</strong>cludes only the<br />
best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok <strong>and</strong> D<strong>in</strong>gač. This<br />
place does it all, <strong>and</strong> does it well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). PAGB<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air condition<strong>in</strong>g A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
G Non-smok<strong>in</strong>g areas L Guarded park<strong>in</strong>g<br />
O Cas<strong>in</strong>o 6 Animal friendly<br />
R Internet B Outside seat<strong>in</strong>gde<br />
Cardo J-1, Domov<strong>in</strong>skog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel.<br />
(+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel-atrium.hr. A touch of<br />
class with an elegant <strong>and</strong> modern décor backed by some<br />
cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuis<strong>in</strong>e that<br />
encompasses all of the Mediterranean‘s charm <strong>and</strong> a w<strong>in</strong>e<br />
list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet<br />
<strong>and</strong> is sure to please. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn).<br />
PAG<br />
Duje D-2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385-21) 54 81<br />
00, mail@restor<strong>and</strong>uje.hr, www.restor<strong>and</strong>uje.hr.<br />
This restaurant is situated <strong>in</strong> Gripe close to the sports<br />
recreation centre - Koteks. It‘s a classic family eatery with<br />
a predom<strong>in</strong>ately Italian cuis<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> a solid choice of w<strong>in</strong>es.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (65 - 400kn). PAGB<br />
Kadena E-3, Ivana pl. Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94<br />
00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85, <strong>in</strong>fo@restorankadena.com,<br />
www.restorankadena.com. D<strong>in</strong>e with a view <strong>in</strong> a restaurant<br />
which prides itself on f<strong>in</strong>e Mediterranean cuis<strong>in</strong>e. Reserve a<br />
w<strong>in</strong>dow seat overlook<strong>in</strong>g the Zenta Mar<strong>in</strong>a or venture onto<br />
the terrace <strong>and</strong> gaze across to the Dalmatian isl<strong>and</strong>s. The<br />
fish platter ala Kadena is just one of the many delights on<br />
offer. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (80 -<br />
130kn). PAGB<br />
Le Monde H-1, Pl<strong>in</strong>arska 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 65/<br />
(+385-21) 38 88 83, www.lemonde.hr. D<strong>in</strong>e with a touch<br />
of class as this slightly hidden restaurant boasts a trim <strong>in</strong>terior<br />
<strong>and</strong> a choice of terraces. Dalmatian fish <strong>and</strong> meat specialties<br />
are on the menu along with local w<strong>in</strong>e. It‘s tucked away <strong>in</strong> the<br />
busy Varoš district but worth the visit. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
(50 - 180kn). PAGB<br />
Marko Lokas<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Pizza<br />
Theirs is of the th<strong>in</strong>-crust variety, <strong>and</strong> the centre will more<br />
closely resemble a soup if you don‘t give it time to cool.<br />
There‘s no shortage of variations on the theme, <strong>and</strong> a<br />
bonus for the economically challenged is the relatively<br />
m<strong>in</strong>iscule price of a pie, 25 - 45kn. Key to topp<strong>in</strong>gs:<br />
feferoni (peppers), frutti di mare (seafood), gljiva<br />
(mushrooms), masl<strong>in</strong>a (olive), rajčica / pomidor (tomato),<br />
sir (cheese), slan<strong>in</strong>a (bacon), šunka (ham).<br />
Galija I-2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 32.<br />
The <strong>in</strong>terior curves around <strong>in</strong> a U shape with the bar near<br />
the entrance. You may get a little confused look<strong>in</strong>g for the<br />
bathroom but that‘s all part of the fun. They serve a wide<br />
selection of pizzas <strong>and</strong> they come <strong>in</strong> not big, but massive<br />
portions QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (20 -<br />
90kn). PAGB<br />
Gušt J-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 63 33. You‘ve<br />
got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it‘s right at the<br />
top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store<br />
Prima Grad <strong>and</strong> take the street on the right. After 50m, turn<br />
left <strong>and</strong> take an immediate left aga<strong>in</strong>. There you‘ll f<strong>in</strong>d Gušt,<br />
a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (34 - 49kn). PAG<br />
Masl<strong>in</strong>a I-2, Teut<strong>in</strong>a 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88,<br />
konmasl<strong>in</strong>a@net.hr. A cute little restaurant that‘s a tad<br />
hard to f<strong>in</strong>d; we suggest you follow the signs that are off<br />
Marmontova. The service is second to none <strong>and</strong> so are the<br />
prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to<br />
mention the beefsteak rolled <strong>in</strong> pancetta. Q Open 10:00 -<br />
24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 90kn). PAGB<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
RestauRaNts<br />
Velo misto No 1 H-1, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38<br />
47 77. There are two Velo Misto‘s, one located <strong>in</strong> Sp<strong>in</strong>ut near<br />
the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza <strong>and</strong> the other<br />
Velo Misto is located <strong>in</strong> Zenta (Šetalište Kalafata bb) with a<br />
huge terrace that overlooks the sea. Velo Misto by the way,<br />
was the name of a popular TV series with performances by<br />
top Split theatre thespians. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 130kn). PAG<br />
Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 34<br />
50 15. Located <strong>in</strong>side the palace walls, this restaurant takes<br />
the name ‘The Golden Gate‘ <strong>and</strong> is surrounded by a lovely<br />
courtyard that br<strong>in</strong>gs much needed shade come summer. The<br />
wood fire oven produces great th<strong>in</strong> based pizzas. The salads<br />
are significantly fill<strong>in</strong>g. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun.<br />
(20 - 60kn). PNGB<br />
Seafood<br />
Bota Šare D-3, Bačvice bb, tel. (+385-21) 48 86 48,<br />
www.bota-sare.hr. Situated right above the Bačvice Beach<br />
with an extensive seafood menu, this eatery is extremely<br />
popular amongst locals <strong>and</strong> tourists. A ref<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong>terior <strong>and</strong><br />
extensive w<strong>in</strong>e list provide the f<strong>in</strong>ish<strong>in</strong>g touches. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 400kn). PAGB<br />
Jugo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 89 00.<br />
Fish dom<strong>in</strong>ates the menu <strong>and</strong> you can get it cooked to your<br />
lik<strong>in</strong>g. D<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> or venture out onto the terrace with magical<br />
views of the old town. The yachts moored <strong>in</strong> the ACI Mar<strong>in</strong>a<br />
are only a stepp<strong>in</strong>g stone away mak<strong>in</strong>g the walk on the Riva<br />
ever so pleasant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn).<br />
PAGB<br />
Summer 2011<br />
19
20 RestauRaNts<br />
Marko Lokas<br />
Noštromo I-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091<br />
405 66 66, <strong>in</strong>fo@restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restorannostromo.hr.<br />
Here‘s your chance to sample a typical Croatian<br />
menu of seafood, prepared <strong>and</strong> served particularly well.<br />
Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants <strong>in</strong><br />
the area <strong>and</strong> you‘ll be charged accord<strong>in</strong>gly for the privilege<br />
of d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g here. The pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs hang<strong>in</strong>g on the walls add to the<br />
ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). PNG<br />
Posejdon I-2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49.<br />
Konobe are t<strong>in</strong>y type bar/restaurants that offer local<br />
Dalmatian specialties, <strong>and</strong> this is of no exception with an<br />
assortment of meat, fresh fish <strong>and</strong> pasta dishes on offer. It‘s<br />
located at the very entrance <strong>in</strong>to the Diocletian Palace, when<br />
you pass ‘Ispod ure‘ (under the clock tower) simply turn right.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. (50 - 200kn). PJAGB<br />
Stellon D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište bb, tel. (+385-21)<br />
48 92 00. Stelon‘s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean<br />
cuis<strong>in</strong>e. The restaurant overlooks the beach <strong>and</strong> has<br />
a pleas<strong>in</strong>gly contemporary ambience, creat<strong>in</strong>g relaxed<br />
surround<strong>in</strong>gs for enjoy<strong>in</strong>g a good meal. Be sure to reserve<br />
your seat dur<strong>in</strong>g the summer! QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Fri,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 24:30. (45 - 390kn). PAGB<br />
Zrno soli C-2, Uvala baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 93<br />
33, zrnosoli.split@gmail.com, www.zrnosoli.hr. This<br />
restaurant has class written all over it. New to the scene, it is<br />
stylish both <strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> out, it is located at the ACI Mar<strong>in</strong>a <strong>and</strong> has<br />
lovely views of the yachts. The cuis<strong>in</strong>e is Mediterranean, the<br />
service is second to none <strong>and</strong> if you do not m<strong>in</strong>d fork<strong>in</strong>g out<br />
the extra dollar, you will def<strong>in</strong>itely get what you pay for. Quality<br />
all-round! QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. (30 - 80kn). A<br />
Traditional<br />
Fife H-3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52<br />
23/(+385-) 098 40 37 30, www.buffet-fife.com. Long<br />
regarded as someth<strong>in</strong>g of a shr<strong>in</strong>e to traditional Dalmatian<br />
home cook<strong>in</strong>g, Fife is a perennially popular meet<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t<br />
for hungry local journalists, writers <strong>and</strong> actors. Expect big,<br />
tasty <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>expensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef<br />
cooked <strong>in</strong> a w<strong>in</strong>e stew <strong>and</strong> served with gnocchi or pasta),<br />
tripe, goulash, fried fish <strong>and</strong> stuffed paprika. Fife‘s only<br />
drawback is it‘s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who<br />
have praised the place so much <strong>in</strong> recent years that it can be<br />
difficult to get a seat (or <strong>in</strong>deed get served) <strong>in</strong> high season.<br />
QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 50kn). PNGB<br />
Hvaran<strong>in</strong> H-2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 091 767<br />
58 91. To experience Dalmatia you simply have to d<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> a<br />
konoba, ‘small old stone build<strong>in</strong>gs‘ where fisherman once spoke<br />
tales <strong>and</strong> cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh<br />
fish are aplenty here. The mussels <strong>and</strong> white risotto deserve<br />
a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija. Q Open<br />
12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 300kn). PNG<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Kibela J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 62 05/<br />
(+385-) 091 534 09 40. A small, homey restaurant hidden<br />
away <strong>in</strong> the palace complex, Buffet Kibela has a satisfy<strong>in</strong>g list<br />
of meat <strong>and</strong> seafood choices on its daily menu, prepared fresh<br />
every day. The food is the perfect size for lunch <strong>and</strong> is brought<br />
out virtually <strong>in</strong>stantaneously by the polite <strong>and</strong> attentive staff.<br />
Thumbs up. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (35 - 80kn). PNGB<br />
Kod Joze J-2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97.<br />
Konoba kod Joze is a qua<strong>in</strong>t <strong>and</strong> cozy affair with absolutely<br />
delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided<br />
your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia)<br />
at a decent price. The <strong>in</strong>terior is done up with rugged,<br />
satisfy<strong>in</strong>gly heavy wood tables <strong>and</strong> chairs <strong>and</strong> the music<br />
is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a<br />
knock out. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(50 - 400kn). PAGB<br />
Konoba Leut H-2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49<br />
09 44. This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals<br />
as it offers good quality home-style cook<strong>in</strong>g. A classic of<br />
Dalmatian cuis<strong>in</strong>e is pašticada - stewed beef served with<br />
gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, <strong>and</strong> a more unusual variant<br />
on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad beans. We<br />
particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice - clams. Plate salads<br />
are also on the menu for a lighter bite. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(40 - 120kn). PAGB<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
RestauRaNts<br />
Konoba Varoš H-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. (+385-21)<br />
39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros.com. It‘s situated<br />
<strong>in</strong> a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an <strong>in</strong>terior<br />
draped <strong>in</strong> creative fish nets. The menu may seem ord<strong>in</strong>ary<br />
but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck <strong>in</strong>to a<br />
big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the<br />
blue (oily) fish or octopus. It‘s a tad pricey but popular with<br />
locals <strong>and</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>e list is endless. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(30 - 200kn). PAG<br />
Lučica C-2, Lučica 7, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63. D<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>in</strong> Lučica is quite f<strong>in</strong>e. The prices are fair, the pizza a<strong>in</strong>‘t bad,<br />
actually it‘s quite good. It‘s located at the Sp<strong>in</strong>ut Mar<strong>in</strong>a,<br />
on the northern side of Mt Marjan. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
(50 - 90kn). PALB<br />
Oštarija u Viđakovi D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27. With a<br />
f<strong>in</strong>e location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this is<br />
a family-run bistro serv<strong>in</strong>g up some of the best traditional<br />
fare <strong>in</strong> the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced<br />
meatballs, bean stew <strong>and</strong> salty cod fill out an extensive<br />
menu, although you can opt for fancy fish <strong>and</strong> lobster dishes<br />
if you‘re <strong>in</strong> the mood to splash out. The <strong>in</strong>timate upstairs<br />
room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the<br />
roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger<br />
gather<strong>in</strong>g. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils<br />
<strong>and</strong> black-<strong>and</strong>-white photos of old Split help to keep th<strong>in</strong>gs<br />
cosy wherever you choose to sit. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(45 - 360kn). PAGB<br />
Fast food<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Delta I-2, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. (+385-21)<br />
33 84 60. Stop <strong>in</strong> for a quick pastry snack <strong>and</strong> tasty<br />
s<strong>and</strong>wich. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (10 - 18kn). B<br />
Kantun Paul<strong>in</strong>a I-2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21)<br />
39 59 73. Some situations just call for a nice serv<strong>in</strong>g<br />
of ćevapi, namely stroll<strong>in</strong>g half-drunk up Marmontova,<br />
<strong>and</strong> this little st<strong>and</strong> on the corner serves them up right.<br />
There‘s no seat<strong>in</strong>g available but you can park it on a<br />
bench at the street <strong>and</strong> watch the night-time drama<br />
unfold. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.<br />
Mc Donald‘s D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Center Joker),<br />
tel. (+385-21) 49 33 20, www.mcdonalds.hr. It is<br />
there. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (7.5 - 37kn). PAB<br />
Rizzo I-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/<br />
(+385-) 091 574 07 64. Another player <strong>in</strong> the local<br />
snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of<br />
s<strong>and</strong>wiches made on freshly baked bread that function<br />
perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (6 - 18kn). B<br />
Summer 2011<br />
21
22 RestauRaNts cafÉs 23<br />
Desserts<br />
Marko Lokas<br />
Bobis-Riva I-3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20.<br />
A Split <strong>in</strong>stitution, Bobis has been provid<strong>in</strong>g the city‘s<br />
citizens with delectable eats s<strong>in</strong>ce 1950. There are a<br />
load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this<br />
one has arguably the best location, as it‘s right on the<br />
Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate<br />
pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for<br />
your hike around Marjan. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
07:00 - 22:00. PNGB<br />
Creme de la Creme I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 35 51 23. You have a sweet tooth <strong>and</strong> the crav<strong>in</strong>g<br />
has hit, so why not w<strong>and</strong>er down to one of the newest<br />
pastry shops <strong>in</strong> town. Fantastic cakes, homemade<br />
pastries, <strong>and</strong> desserts served with coffee, liqueurs <strong>and</strong><br />
juices. Its m<strong>in</strong>imalistic <strong>in</strong>terior <strong>in</strong>cludes some trendy retro<br />
details, everyth<strong>in</strong>g looks simple <strong>and</strong> refresh<strong>in</strong>g. Located<br />
opposite the movie theatre Karaman, they also have<br />
a terrace for some outdoor peace <strong>and</strong> quiet. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 22:30. PAGBX<br />
Galerija J-2, Dom<strong>in</strong>isova 9. The imag<strong>in</strong>ative <strong>and</strong><br />
pleasant decor pays perfect compliment to the sweets<br />
on offer <strong>and</strong> the music t<strong>in</strong>kl<strong>in</strong>g away <strong>in</strong> the background is<br />
a nice touch. A good alternative to the st<strong>and</strong>ard dessert<br />
places around town. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat<br />
08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00.<br />
Kuća kolača D-3, Ulica kralja Zvonimira 16, tel.<br />
(+385-) 098 930 07 54/(+385-) 095 926 40 30.<br />
Love your cakes <strong>and</strong> want to try the traditional home<br />
recipes of the region, look no further as the staff here<br />
serves homemade cakes, sweets <strong>and</strong> salty pastries.<br />
There is no seat<strong>in</strong>g so it is all take out <strong>and</strong> on the go.<br />
Not bad if you would like a nibble on the beach! Q Open<br />
09:30 - 20:00. Sun Open on request. N<br />
Kuća sladoleda Carmen I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 34 49 89. Cool off at Kuća Carmen as<br />
they offer you a wide range of ice-creams <strong>and</strong> beverages.<br />
From the creamy to the fruity, it has it all the flavors. It‘s<br />
close to the Croatian National Theatre, therefore hard to<br />
miss. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PNGB<br />
La Maison de Sarah I-3, Obala hrv. narodnog<br />
preporoda 20. The proprietors of La Maison de<br />
Sarah meet the pastry dem<strong>and</strong>s of coffee-sipp<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Riva-ites nicely with a whole selection of h<strong>and</strong>made<br />
delights, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g authentic French tarts <strong>and</strong> pastries.<br />
Unfortunately, it‘s not actually a house - all the pastries<br />
are take-away only. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. N<br />
Tradicija I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 10 70.<br />
This is the oldest confectionery <strong>in</strong> town <strong>and</strong> with gr<strong>and</strong><br />
old age, come gr<strong>and</strong> old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits,<br />
cakes <strong>and</strong> other sweet specialties are all cooked to<br />
tradition - just as the name itself! QOpen 08:00 - 21:30,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. N<br />
Pimp<strong>in</strong>ella E-3, Sp<strong>in</strong>čićeva 2a, tel. (+385-21) 38 96<br />
06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, pimp<strong>in</strong>ellast@yahoo.com.<br />
A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house.<br />
The menu <strong>in</strong>cludes grilled meals, pašticada, roast lamb with<br />
vegetables <strong>and</strong> much more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00. (45 - 70kn). PAGB<br />
Šperun H-2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99. A cute<br />
buffet restaurant positioned <strong>in</strong> the heart of the city near the<br />
Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers ref<strong>in</strong>ed local<br />
cuis<strong>in</strong>e with an emphasis on seafood; the <strong>in</strong>terior is decorated<br />
with antiques <strong>and</strong> modern oil pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs. The daily special<br />
is often a good bet. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn).<br />
PAGB<br />
Terra Antika D-3, Prilaz Braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 31 48 01, <strong>in</strong>fo@terra-antika.net, www.terra-antika.<br />
net. This cellar restaurant <strong>and</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e bar located <strong>in</strong> Bačvice<br />
stows authentic Croatian v<strong>in</strong>o that simply delights whilst<br />
nibbl<strong>in</strong>g on tapas Croatian style. The varied menu features<br />
the likes of spicy Slavonian sausage <strong>and</strong> prosciutto as well<br />
as dishes <strong>in</strong>fused with flavoursome Istrian truffles. QOpen<br />
17:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). PA<br />
Zlatna ribica I-2, Kraj Sv. Marije 8, tel. (+385-21) 34<br />
87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Unpretentious little bar<br />
located by the fish market serv<strong>in</strong>g scrumptious fried seafood<br />
to famished locals <strong>and</strong> savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide<br />
the guidebook <strong>and</strong> camera <strong>and</strong> you will fit right <strong>in</strong>. QOpen<br />
06:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. (40 - 70kn). PNG<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Makrovega I-2, Lešt<strong>in</strong>a 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40,<br />
<strong>in</strong>fo@makrovega.hr, www.makrovega.hr. If you‘re <strong>in</strong> need<br />
of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg…you‘ll f<strong>in</strong>d them all<br />
here, along with freshly squeezed fruit <strong>and</strong> vegetable juices.<br />
The veggies are home grown or organic. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 70kn). PNG<br />
Froggy flavours<br />
Marko Lokas<br />
The cul<strong>in</strong>ary repertoire of <strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong> Dalmatia has always<br />
reserved a special role for the frog (žaba). Traditionally<br />
considered a staple of work<strong>in</strong>g families, frogs’ legs are<br />
now someth<strong>in</strong>g of a delicacy, <strong>and</strong> urban foodies from<br />
Split <strong>and</strong> Zagreb will make special trips to prov<strong>in</strong>cial<br />
konobe to seek out the best frog recipes.<br />
In the Cet<strong>in</strong>a region (Cet<strong>in</strong>ska Kraj<strong>in</strong>a) <strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong> from<br />
Split, frogs’ legs are usually fried <strong>in</strong> breadcrumbs or<br />
boiled with potatoes. The prov<strong>in</strong>cial town of Trilj is a<br />
popular gastronomic dest<strong>in</strong>ation with two outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g<br />
restaurants, the Lovac (tel. 83 12 68) <strong>and</strong> the Čaporice<br />
<strong>in</strong> the Sveti Mihovil hotel (tel. 83 17 70).<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
As you w<strong>in</strong>d your way through the streets <strong>and</strong> alleys of<br />
Split‘s old town, you‘ll encounter more cafes <strong>and</strong> bars than<br />
you can shake a stick at <strong>and</strong> the summer season will offer<br />
you no end of folks to browse impert<strong>in</strong>ently, be they tourist<br />
or local. Nearly every cafe offers some k<strong>in</strong>d of outdoor<br />
seat<strong>in</strong>g, but select<strong>in</strong>g the right spot will significantly affect<br />
your cool rat<strong>in</strong>g. Choose wisely.<br />
Bajamonti I-2, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10<br />
33. The stunn<strong>in</strong>g Prokurative Square is home to this br<strong>and</strong><br />
new classical café <strong>and</strong> restaurant which is named <strong>in</strong> honour<br />
of Antonio Bajamonti, a famous 19th century Mayor of the<br />
city. Choose to sip coffee downstairs or head upstairs to<br />
the restaurant <strong>and</strong> terrace which houses Croatian <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />
particular local Dalmatian cuis<strong>in</strong>e comb<strong>in</strong>ed with assorted<br />
Mediterranean, French <strong>and</strong> Italian specialties. Opened just<br />
weeks ago, it is sleek <strong>and</strong> of high quality. QOpen 07:30 -<br />
24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. PAGBX<br />
Favola I-2, Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. (+385-21)<br />
34 48 48. A much needed coffee <strong>and</strong> newspapers? Here‘s<br />
a great opportunity to sit back <strong>and</strong> take pleasure <strong>in</strong> this café<br />
along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they‘d state its<br />
location as the second row by the sea, mean<strong>in</strong>g it‘s not coffee<br />
on the waterfront but directly beh<strong>in</strong>d it. It‘s name is Italian for<br />
fairytale <strong>and</strong> we must absurdly state that the female toilet is<br />
unusually narrow! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGB<br />
Gaga I-2, Iza Lože 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 82 57. In the<br />
shade just beh<strong>in</strong>d Loža (the gallery area <strong>in</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong> square -<br />
Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can<br />
be a refresh<strong>in</strong>g treat amongst the s<strong>in</strong>g-song chatter of the<br />
<strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g local folk. Q Open 07:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00<br />
- 03:00. PNGB<br />
Kalafatić E-3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-21) 38 91 01/<br />
(+385-) 095 914 90 53, 098 941 98 86. If you wish to<br />
take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is to Zenta<br />
bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazy<strong>in</strong>g around<br />
with a coffee <strong>and</strong> friendly company. With a view of the bay<br />
<strong>and</strong> boats <strong>and</strong> the smell of the sea, it‘s a real treat. Be sure<br />
to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the way<br />
to the popular Bačvice beach. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 07:00 - 01:00. Open 10:00 - 24:00 (Restaurant). (50 -<br />
110kn). PAGB<br />
Kavana Procaffe C-2, Šp<strong>in</strong>utska 67, tel. (+385-21)<br />
38 43 23, <strong>in</strong>fo@procaffe.hr, www.procaffe.hr. A superb<br />
place for read<strong>in</strong>g the daily paper <strong>and</strong> sipp<strong>in</strong>g a coffee with an<br />
outlook toward the Kaštela towns <strong>and</strong> the Kozjak mounta<strong>in</strong>.<br />
In lovely weather, there‘s noth<strong>in</strong>g better than sitt<strong>in</strong>g here<br />
<strong>and</strong> watch<strong>in</strong>g the pass<strong>in</strong>g sailboats <strong>and</strong> rowboats. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 01:00. PAGB<br />
Lvxor J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82,<br />
lvxor@lvxor.hr, www.lvxor.hr. A titular nod to the sixteen<br />
sph<strong>in</strong>xes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum<br />
(<strong>and</strong> the one that rema<strong>in</strong>s), Kavana Lvxor‘s location on the<br />
Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality<br />
of the location. There‘s wireless Internet, magaz<strong>in</strong>es <strong>and</strong><br />
daily newspapers <strong>in</strong> foreign languages <strong>and</strong> a broad menu that<br />
<strong>in</strong>cludes normal café fare, plus cocktails, s<strong>and</strong>wiches <strong>and</strong><br />
breakfast <strong>in</strong> the morn<strong>in</strong>g. In the warmer months, cushions<br />
are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge<br />
around <strong>in</strong> true imperial style. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat<br />
08:00 - 02:00. PAGB<br />
Po Bota I-2, Šubićeva 2. If you prefer an <strong>in</strong>timate affair,<br />
come to this café bar which doubles up as an art exhibition<br />
of the local artists. The terrace borders onto the Fruit square<br />
(Voćni trg) giv<strong>in</strong>g a friendly local atmosphere. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. GBX<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Šetač I-1, Poljana T<strong>in</strong>a Ujevića bb. The seven axes<br />
embedded <strong>in</strong> pieces of wood l<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g the back wall are what<br />
<strong>in</strong>itially attracted our <strong>in</strong>terest, but, alas, they rema<strong>in</strong>ed a<br />
mystery. Perhaps you can corner a server <strong>and</strong> make them<br />
spill the beans regard<strong>in</strong>g their orig<strong>in</strong>s. Axes notwithst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g,<br />
the bar‘s large outdoor seat<strong>in</strong>g area <strong>and</strong> small but stylish<br />
<strong>in</strong>terior make for a pleasant enough place to have a coffee<br />
<strong>and</strong> check out the passersby. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
08:00 - 24:00. PB<br />
Teak caffe J-2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 27 37<br />
18, teakcaffe@gmail.com. Yep, the <strong>in</strong>terior is all done up <strong>in</strong><br />
teak <strong>and</strong> l<strong>in</strong>ed on one side by the orig<strong>in</strong>al northern wall of the<br />
palace. Outdoor seat<strong>in</strong>g is available <strong>in</strong> a pleasant courtyard,<br />
cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbour<strong>in</strong>g build<strong>in</strong>gs.<br />
Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 -<br />
14:00, 20:00 - 24:00. PNGB<br />
Teraca Bamba H-3, Solurat 7, tel. (+385-) 091 311<br />
09 98. Give the <strong>in</strong>terior of this one a pass unless the need<br />
arises to weave your way through the tables <strong>and</strong> patrons to<br />
visit the unisex bathroom. Until then, soak up the resplendent<br />
view from the terrace of ships to-<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> fro-<strong>in</strong>g across<br />
the harbor. For best results, experience with an attractive<br />
significant other. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 -<br />
02:00. PNBX<br />
Tonik Juicy Bar H-2, Ban Mladenova 5, tel. (+385-21)<br />
39 48 88. A small but charm<strong>in</strong>g place for a break <strong>in</strong> between<br />
check<strong>in</strong>g out the city. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. PNGB<br />
Vidilica C-2/3, Nazorov prilaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 49<br />
25. The best th<strong>in</strong>g about this one is the view, <strong>and</strong> as far as<br />
views go, it doesn‘t get much better. The harbor <strong>and</strong> the Riva,<br />
the sea <strong>and</strong> the isl<strong>and</strong>s are all on glorious display. Plus, the<br />
cafe‘s location makes it a perfect start<strong>in</strong>g or f<strong>in</strong>ish<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t<br />
to an afternoon spent explor<strong>in</strong>g Marjan. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
24:00. PGB<br />
Žbirac D-3, Šetalište Bačvice bb, kontakt@zbirac.hr,<br />
www.zbirac.hr. It is said that this is possibly the best place<br />
<strong>in</strong> Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot<br />
has a wonderful terrace <strong>and</strong> a perfect view of the beach.<br />
Žbirac known <strong>in</strong> English as the Warty crab, hides dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
day <strong>and</strong> comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.<br />
Summer 2010
24 Nightlife<br />
Bars<br />
Bifora E-2, Bernard<strong>in</strong>ova 5. Decorated with scenes from<br />
someone‘s psychedelic experience or a particularly bizarre<br />
fairy tale, Bifora has <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g clientele, a quirky, relaxed vibe<br />
<strong>and</strong> attracts a large number of revelers <strong>in</strong> the summer months.<br />
Def<strong>in</strong>itely a much-frequented stop for Split party-goers.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PJBX<br />
Buža I-2, Priora Petra 7. Nestled alongside a group of<br />
narrow bars lies Buža, a smaller alternative spot where one<br />
can enjoy the nights with rock music. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.<br />
Closed Sun. PJBX<br />
Element bar I-2, Ispod ure 2, tel. (+385-) 098 987<br />
77 80. In the heart of the old city centre, this café has a<br />
beautifully decorated <strong>in</strong>terior <strong>in</strong> a lounge bar k<strong>in</strong>d of style.<br />
What makes it different is the soundtrack: <strong>in</strong>stead of the<br />
usual easy-listen<strong>in</strong>g house music soundtrack, the music menu<br />
consists of good quality rock music, <strong>and</strong> live b<strong>and</strong>s are put<br />
on once or twice a week. And to make th<strong>in</strong>gs almost perfect,<br />
Element has an excellent choice of specialist coffees. Q<br />
Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. BE<br />
Ghetto J-2, Dosud 10. Furry, fluffy seats complemented by<br />
a funk <strong>and</strong> disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not<br />
slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated<br />
to birds <strong>and</strong> bees. Symbolic? You decide. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PNBX<br />
Mosquito J-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Mosquito squeezes a<br />
great deal <strong>in</strong>to a small space, with spiral staircases l<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g<br />
an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched<br />
furnish<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>and</strong> bright <strong>in</strong>terior colours. There‘s plenty of<br />
loungey furniture to slump <strong>in</strong>to, <strong>and</strong> a popular terrace outside.<br />
Serves draught Gu<strong>in</strong>ness. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat<br />
08:00 - 02:00. PNBX<br />
Na kantunu J-2, Dom<strong>in</strong>isova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41<br />
91. Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge<br />
Hajduk Split symbol dom<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g one wall - which will at least<br />
fill you with a deep sense of comfort <strong>and</strong> joy if you‘ve picked<br />
up any of the local sport<strong>in</strong>g patriotism s<strong>in</strong>ce your arrival <strong>in</strong><br />
the city. Na Kantunu‘s real advantage however is the old-town<br />
location, with outdoor seat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a small square. Serv<strong>in</strong>g<br />
bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales<br />
worth dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g) alongside Czech-brewed Lobkowicz, it‘s also<br />
an outst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g place for a beer. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PB<br />
Puls2 I-2, Buv<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>a 1. It‘s easy to get to Puls, just take a<br />
right from the Voćni trg <strong>and</strong> straight <strong>in</strong> the narrow passage<br />
you‘ll f<strong>in</strong>d this hip bar with comfortably fitted <strong>and</strong> colourful<br />
chairs <strong>and</strong> benches on the outside which contrasts to its<br />
<strong>in</strong>dustrially fitted <strong>in</strong>terior. Whether you elect to st<strong>and</strong> or sit<br />
you‘re sure to enjoy this place, especially its variety of delish<br />
cocktails <strong>and</strong> DJ beats on weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNGBXW<br />
Red Room J-2, Carar<strong>in</strong>a poljana 4. Hang out of a more<br />
mature <strong>and</strong> discern<strong>in</strong>g crowd, this <strong>in</strong>timately lighted <strong>and</strong> comfy<br />
space has an altogether positive, relax<strong>in</strong>g vibe enhanced<br />
by light <strong>and</strong> smooth music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat<br />
07:00 - 02:00. PNBXW<br />
ST Riva I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18,<br />
tel. (+385-) 098 31 49 01, <strong>in</strong>fo.striva@gmail.com, www.<br />
st-riva.com. Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily<br />
located along the city walls <strong>and</strong> is an ideal place to relax on<br />
hot summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views<br />
you have of the Riva <strong>and</strong> port, one of the better places to<br />
chill whilst sipp<strong>in</strong>g beverages. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat<br />
08:00 - 02:00. PJGB<br />
Clubs<br />
Hem<strong>in</strong>gway C-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel.<br />
(+385-) 099 211 99 93, split@hem<strong>in</strong>gway.hr, www.<br />
hem<strong>in</strong>gway.hr. Nope, your fancy tra<strong>in</strong>ers won‘t cut it here,<br />
darl<strong>in</strong>gs. In fact your plimsoles won‘t even make it past the<br />
door. This is Split‘s most opulent dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g hole (we are told to<br />
believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom<br />
Cruise <strong>in</strong> Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
06:00. PAGBXW<br />
Jungla A-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića bb, tel. (+385-)<br />
095 897 29 21. The new season at this beach bar Jungle<br />
(located under Šetalište I.Meštrović) starts with an electric<br />
beat <strong>and</strong> cont<strong>in</strong>ues <strong>in</strong> that rhythm all summer long. You‘re<br />
<strong>in</strong>vited! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 -<br />
06:00. PNGBX<br />
Kocka D/E-2, Savska bb, tel. (+385-21) 54 05 37, kum.<br />
kocka@gmail.com, www.kocka.hr. In this club you‘re sure<br />
to hear the sounds of underground metal/rock <strong>and</strong> gothic<br />
rock, ‘warm up party‘, drum n bass, punk, hip hop…..The<br />
club is located under Mažuranićevo šetalište <strong>in</strong> the basement<br />
room of the Youth Centre (Dom mladih). As a rem<strong>in</strong>der, the<br />
club doesn‘t operate daily dur<strong>in</strong>g the summer months but<br />
does open for organized concerts <strong>and</strong> special events, so it‘s<br />
best to keep track via the web.<br />
Obojena Svjetlost A-3, Meštrovićevo šetalište 35,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 35 82 80. This place is noted as a popular<br />
hang-out. Named „Obojena“ by the locals, it‘s situated just<br />
under Kaštelet towards Marjan. Sw<strong>in</strong>g by <strong>and</strong> stay for the<br />
parties <strong>and</strong> concerts all summer. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.<br />
O‘Hara E-3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. (+385-) 098 36 42<br />
62, <strong>in</strong>foohara@gmail.com, www.ohara.hr. Small groups<br />
of Split‘s young hell-raisers mark the way to their party<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Mecca, a beach-side night club with club hits throbb<strong>in</strong>g at<br />
maximum volume <strong>and</strong> potentially hangover-<strong>in</strong>duc<strong>in</strong>g dr<strong>in</strong>k<br />
specials. If you‘re <strong>in</strong> the mood for a quiet, relax<strong>in</strong>g weekend<br />
night out, look elsewhere. A lounge <strong>and</strong> bar area provides<br />
temporary escape from the club crush. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AGBX<br />
Vanilla C-2, Poljudski put b.b., tel. (+385-) 098 29 25<br />
22. Match the look of Split‘s beautiful people who frequent<br />
this open, airy club <strong>and</strong> don some slick duds before mak<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the fifteen-m<strong>in</strong>ute walk from the old town. You‘ll f<strong>in</strong>d two large<br />
bar areas, comfy seat<strong>in</strong>g, house <strong>and</strong> dance tunes on the<br />
speakers <strong>and</strong> a hip decor. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat<br />
07:00 - 04:00. PNGBX<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Consist<strong>in</strong>g of an imperial Roman palace that was taken<br />
over by the plebs <strong>and</strong> turned <strong>in</strong>to a throng<strong>in</strong>g city, central<br />
Split is an attraction <strong>in</strong> itself. There‘s no s<strong>in</strong>gle must-see<br />
attraction here: it‘s really a question of tak<strong>in</strong>g time to stroll<br />
the palace‘s narrow, tunnel-like streets, where Roman,<br />
medieval <strong>and</strong> Renaissance build<strong>in</strong>gs jostle together<br />
to form a unique urban jumble. And you shouldn‘t just<br />
restrict your w<strong>and</strong>er<strong>in</strong>gs to the city centre: residential<br />
neighbourhoods such as Veli Varoš, Lučac <strong>and</strong> Manuš are<br />
filled with the k<strong>in</strong>d of picturesque alleys <strong>and</strong> stone houses<br />
that are so typical of traditional Dalmatian towns. Ris<strong>in</strong>g<br />
above the city to the west, Marjan hill presents an easily<br />
accessible expanse of woodl<strong>and</strong> park, with some f<strong>in</strong>e<br />
views back towards the centre.<br />
Essential Split<br />
Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) I/J-2.<br />
A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the<br />
hills surround<strong>in</strong>g the city will quickly establish why practically<br />
any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace<br />
at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home.<br />
Construction began <strong>in</strong> 293 <strong>and</strong> was completed <strong>in</strong> ten years<br />
<strong>and</strong> utilized a variety of materials from all around the region,<br />
<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g white stone shipped from the isl<strong>and</strong> of Brač to<br />
sph<strong>in</strong>xes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian‘s<br />
palace has become the qu<strong>in</strong>tessential „liv<strong>in</strong>g museum“, as<br />
modern shops <strong>and</strong> citizens reside with<strong>in</strong> the walls of the<br />
ancient palace complex.<br />
The part of the palace known as „the basement“ was built<br />
dur<strong>in</strong>g the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments<br />
placed above it <strong>and</strong>, until 1956, was unexplored <strong>and</strong> cluttered<br />
up with the detritus of thous<strong>and</strong>s of years of history. Now,<br />
it‘s been cleaned <strong>and</strong> opened for visitors. Because it mirrors<br />
the floor plan of the orig<strong>in</strong>al imperial liv<strong>in</strong>g quarters, a visit<br />
to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the<br />
palace. And, because explor<strong>in</strong>g the depths of ancient palaces<br />
is difficult work, the steps lead<strong>in</strong>g up <strong>and</strong> out of the northern<br />
end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape.<br />
At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle<br />
is now one of the central meet<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>in</strong> town, with people<br />
leisurely sipp<strong>in</strong>g coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient<br />
architectural structures.<br />
Fish Market (Ribarnica) I-2, Obrov 5. Upon enter<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
you might feel compelled to crack the classic, “Someth<strong>in</strong>g‘s<br />
fishy here…” joke, but please refra<strong>in</strong> - it‘s been said before.<br />
What you can do is check out the hustle <strong>and</strong> bustle of<br />
weigh<strong>in</strong>g, cutt<strong>in</strong>g, haggl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> trad<strong>in</strong>g that has been go<strong>in</strong>g<br />
on at this site s<strong>in</strong>ce the fish market moved from its orig<strong>in</strong>al<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
What to see<br />
location <strong>in</strong> the south-eastern part of the palace complex <strong>in</strong><br />
1843. The <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g smells emanat<strong>in</strong>g from the fish market<br />
might be compounded with another dist<strong>in</strong>ctive odor waft<strong>in</strong>g<br />
through the air, that of sulphur. There‘s a sulphur spa nearby<br />
whose smell frequently m<strong>in</strong>gles with the smell of fish, creat<strong>in</strong>g<br />
a truly <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g amalgamation of aromas.<br />
Green Market (Pazar) J-3. Any traveller worth their salt<br />
wants to get real <strong>and</strong> rub elbows with some of the locals <strong>and</strong><br />
Split‘s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> jo<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> the hubbub go<strong>in</strong>g on, all dedicated to good ol‘<br />
small scale market capitalism. The buy<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> sell<strong>in</strong>g frenzy<br />
<strong>in</strong>volves a variety of wares such as fruits <strong>and</strong> veggies, cloth<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>and</strong> other odds <strong>and</strong> ends.<br />
Marjan Pen<strong>in</strong>sula (Marjan) A/B-2/3, . When ready to<br />
escape the hustle <strong>and</strong> bustle of Croatia‘s second city, visitors<br />
can take a pleasant, ten-m<strong>in</strong>ute walk through Veli Varoš up to<br />
the wooded heights of the Marjan pen<strong>in</strong>sula, a safe-haven of<br />
paved paths (suitable for walk<strong>in</strong>g or bik<strong>in</strong>g), fragrant forests<br />
<strong>and</strong> beaches. An afternoon of sightsee<strong>in</strong>g, swimm<strong>in</strong>g or<br />
walk<strong>in</strong>g should be started just like the locals would, with a<br />
dr<strong>in</strong>k at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The pen<strong>in</strong>sula<br />
is home to several po<strong>in</strong>ts of <strong>in</strong>terest, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the rema<strong>in</strong>s<br />
of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages <strong>and</strong> chapels<br />
from the 13th <strong>and</strong> 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps<br />
leads up to Telegr<strong>in</strong> which, at 178m, is the highest po<strong>in</strong>t on<br />
the pen<strong>in</strong>sula. The isl<strong>and</strong>s of Brač, Hvar <strong>and</strong> Šolta can be<br />
seen <strong>and</strong>, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as<br />
the isl<strong>and</strong> of Vis.<br />
Riva I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. If you<br />
w<strong>and</strong>er around ask<strong>in</strong>g where the Obala hrvatskog naradnog<br />
preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival),<br />
you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just<br />
ask for the Riva <strong>and</strong> someone is sure to po<strong>in</strong>t you <strong>in</strong> the right<br />
direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront<br />
that runs the length of the old town <strong>and</strong> hugs the palace on<br />
its south side. It‘s the de facto gather<strong>in</strong>g spot, day <strong>and</strong> night,<br />
for the people of Split to engage <strong>in</strong> some of the activities that<br />
have been honed to a f<strong>in</strong>e art <strong>in</strong> Croatia: chatt<strong>in</strong>g over a cup<br />
of coffee <strong>and</strong> people-watch<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
Summer 2011<br />
25
26 What to see<br />
The Peristyle <strong>and</strong> The Cathedral of St Domnius<br />
(Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) J-2, . Eleven of the<br />
twelve granite sph<strong>in</strong>xes that orig<strong>in</strong>ally guarded the Peristyle<br />
have been destroyed by Christians who took exception<br />
to Egyptian imagery <strong>in</strong> their cathedral, but the twelfth<br />
rema<strong>in</strong>s, an impos<strong>in</strong>g rem<strong>in</strong>der of the orig<strong>in</strong>al designer of the<br />
mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor‘s tomb has long<br />
s<strong>in</strong>ce disappeared, perhaps re-used <strong>in</strong> the creation of the<br />
Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian‘s rule do<br />
rema<strong>in</strong>, <strong>in</strong> the form of portraits of the emperor <strong>and</strong> his wife that<br />
can be seen <strong>in</strong> the dome of the cathedral. More prom<strong>in</strong>ently<br />
on display are the altars to Domnius <strong>and</strong> Anastasius, the latter<br />
a Christian martyr who was killed dur<strong>in</strong>g the reign of another<br />
enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In gr<strong>and</strong> historical<br />
irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian‘s<br />
victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After view<strong>in</strong>g the <strong>in</strong>terior<br />
of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely<br />
view of the surround<strong>in</strong>g area <strong>and</strong> the nearby port.<br />
Veli Varoš H-2, . Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is<br />
a neighbourhood full of w<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g streets <strong>and</strong> old apartments<br />
that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It‘s well worth tak<strong>in</strong>g a stroll<br />
around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what<br />
daily life is like around Split.<br />
Museums<br />
Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-2,<br />
Zr<strong>in</strong>sko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93<br />
40, <strong>in</strong>fo@armus.hr, www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski.<br />
Even though it‘s situated north of the town centre, Split‘s<br />
archaeological museum is certa<strong>in</strong>ly worth the trip. The<br />
museum was founded <strong>in</strong> 1820, mak<strong>in</strong>g it the oldest museum<br />
<strong>in</strong> Croatia. The museum‘s contents come ma<strong>in</strong>ly from central<br />
Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thous<strong>and</strong>s of stone<br />
epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics <strong>and</strong><br />
glass of Greek <strong>and</strong> Roman orig<strong>in</strong>, along with hundreds of<br />
other objects made from bone, metal <strong>and</strong> glass from various<br />
historical periods <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g pre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek<br />
<strong>and</strong> Medieval. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed<br />
Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.<br />
City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) J-2, Papalićeva<br />
1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72,<br />
muzej-grada-st@st.t-com.hr, www.mgst.net. The Papalić<br />
family settled <strong>in</strong> Split <strong>in</strong> the early 14th century <strong>and</strong>, while <strong>in</strong><br />
the process of becom<strong>in</strong>g one of the city‘s most respected<br />
families, built a small palace to serve as their family‘s home.<br />
Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split,<br />
the orig<strong>in</strong>s of which can be traced back to Dm<strong>in</strong>e Papalić<br />
<strong>and</strong> his collection of sculptures <strong>and</strong> monuments taken from<br />
nearby Salona. The collection has grown <strong>in</strong> subsequent<br />
years to <strong>in</strong>clude various pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>and</strong> artworks, along with<br />
fragments of sculptures, monuments <strong>and</strong> statues that<br />
were once parts of build<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong> Split. Along with the artwork<br />
on display, there are numerous documents, photographs,<br />
maps <strong>and</strong> manuscripts that help tell the historical story of<br />
Split. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Admission 5 -10kn.<br />
Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski pomorski<br />
muzej) K-2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-<br />
21) 34 77 88/(+385-21) 34 73 46, hpms@hpms.hr,<br />
www.hpms.hr. Spend all your time cocooned <strong>in</strong> the old<br />
town <strong>and</strong> you‘ll miss out on many of Split‘s more quirky<br />
delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one.<br />
It‘s located <strong>in</strong>side the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians<br />
<strong>in</strong> the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, <strong>and</strong><br />
subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire.<br />
Contents <strong>in</strong>clude a simple but compell<strong>in</strong>g collection of model<br />
ships through the ages, rang<strong>in</strong>g from Venetian galleys to<br />
twentieth-century cruise l<strong>in</strong>ers. Also ly<strong>in</strong>g around are all<br />
manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns <strong>and</strong> naval<br />
uniforms. Most strik<strong>in</strong>g exhibit is the room devoted to the<br />
ground-break<strong>in</strong>g torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-<br />
Lupis workshop <strong>in</strong> n<strong>in</strong>eteenth-century Rijeka. To f<strong>in</strong>ish off,<br />
you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats<br />
while serenaded by shriek<strong>in</strong>g peacocks - a colony of which<br />
roams free on the east side of the fortress. Q Open 09:00<br />
- 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Sun Open by prior arrangement.<br />
Admission 5 - 10kn.<br />
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) J-3,<br />
Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, etnografski-muzejst@st.t-com.hr,<br />
www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. If you‘re<br />
<strong>in</strong>to mak<strong>in</strong>g an <strong>in</strong>-depth exam<strong>in</strong>ation of Croatia‘s cultural<br />
tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you‘re<br />
<strong>in</strong> luck. Split‘s Ethnographic Museum was founded <strong>in</strong> 1910<br />
<strong>and</strong> features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery<br />
<strong>and</strong> cloth<strong>in</strong>g, plus exhibits detail<strong>in</strong>g the various trades, like<br />
knitt<strong>in</strong>g, woodcarv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> pottery, that have been practised<br />
<strong>in</strong> the region over the years. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July 01 - September 15 Open<br />
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission<br />
5 - 10kn.<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments<br />
(Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) A-3,<br />
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39<br />
01/(+385-21) 32 39 05, muzej-has1@st.t-com.hr,<br />
www.mhas-split.hr. Founded <strong>in</strong> 1893 to collect <strong>and</strong> exhibit<br />
medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of <strong>in</strong>terest, the<br />
Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived<br />
a turbulent history that has seen the museum‘s site change<br />
frequently, sometimes due to the grow<strong>in</strong>g size of the collection<br />
<strong>and</strong> sometimes due to the impend<strong>in</strong>g threat of war. A trip to<br />
the museum‘s current location, opened <strong>in</strong> 1976, will give<br />
you the chance to view part of the museum‘s 3,000-piece<br />
collection of sculpture, tools, weapons <strong>and</strong> other items<br />
spann<strong>in</strong>g several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.<br />
Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.<br />
Galleries<br />
Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović)<br />
J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55/<br />
(+385-21) 36 01 67, gorana@mgst.net, www.mgst.<br />
net. Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifullyrestored<br />
Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the<br />
career of local pa<strong>in</strong>ter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953). Croatia‘s<br />
lead<strong>in</strong>g post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a lifelong<br />
fasc<strong>in</strong>ation with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir<br />
<strong>and</strong> the Italian town of Chioggia provid<strong>in</strong>g most of his subject<br />
matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović‘s uniquely<br />
hazy canvases, there is a fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g re-creation of the artist‘s<br />
former studio - <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g dolls, curios <strong>and</strong> an extraord<strong>in</strong>ary<br />
collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar<br />
Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović‘s life can be seen<br />
on the top floor - worth watch<strong>in</strong>g if only because of the groovy,<br />
sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit <strong>in</strong>. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
What to see<br />
Meštrović Gallery <strong>and</strong> the Crikv<strong>in</strong>e Kaštelet B-3,<br />
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34<br />
08 00, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Housed<br />
<strong>in</strong> an impos<strong>in</strong>g marble villa planned by the artist himself,<br />
the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a f<strong>in</strong>e job of tell<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
story of a sculptor who went from humble beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>gs as<br />
a stonecutter‘s apprentice to an exalted position <strong>in</strong> the<br />
<strong>in</strong>ternational art scene. Meštrović‘s <strong>in</strong>fluences ranged from<br />
modernism to folk art <strong>and</strong> ancient Greek sculpture, produc<strong>in</strong>g<br />
an <strong>in</strong>stantly recognizable <strong>in</strong>dividual style. The display <strong>in</strong>cludes<br />
an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside<br />
religiously-<strong>in</strong>spired works <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>timate portraits of family<br />
members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he<br />
produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur<br />
N<strong>in</strong>ski <strong>in</strong> Split (see „L<strong>and</strong>marks“). After teach<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Zagreb<br />
Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becom<strong>in</strong>g a professor first<br />
at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died <strong>in</strong> South<br />
Bend, Indiana <strong>in</strong> 1961.<br />
A five-m<strong>in</strong>ute walk further west along the same road is<br />
the Kaštelet, a 16th-century summer house bought by<br />
Meštrović <strong>in</strong> 1939 <strong>and</strong> converted <strong>in</strong>to a chapel. Inside lies<br />
what is arguably the artist‘s most stunn<strong>in</strong>g creation, a cycle<br />
of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result<br />
of almost twenty years‘ work, the cycle <strong>in</strong>corporates motifs<br />
from ancient, medieval <strong>and</strong> modern art, comb<strong>in</strong>ed to produce<br />
an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.<br />
Become a fan of Split<br />
In Your Pocket on<br />
Summer 2011<br />
27
28 What to see<br />
Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetn<strong>in</strong>a) J-2, Ulica<br />
kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 11/(+385-21)<br />
35 01 12, galerija-umjetn<strong>in</strong>a@galum.hr, www.galum.<br />
hr. Recently re-opened <strong>in</strong> its br<strong>and</strong>-new home (a restored<br />
former hospital), Split‘s ma<strong>in</strong> art gallery boasts one of the<br />
Adriatic‘s most absorb<strong>in</strong>g collections. The Renaissance is<br />
represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano<br />
<strong>and</strong> an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the<br />
overview of n<strong>in</strong>eteenth- <strong>and</strong> twentieth-century Croatian<br />
art ropes <strong>in</strong> most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac <strong>and</strong><br />
Emanuel Vidović <strong>in</strong>cluded. Contemporary pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs by N<strong>in</strong>a<br />
Ivančić <strong>and</strong> photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of<br />
material for the ch<strong>in</strong>-strokers to ponder over. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Admission 10 - 20kn.<br />
The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske<br />
katedrale) J-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5. The treasury holds a<br />
collection of golden artifacts <strong>and</strong> church garments from<br />
the Romanesque, gothic <strong>and</strong> baroque period. Some of<br />
the highlights <strong>in</strong>clude the pyx from 1522, Croatia‘s oldest<br />
manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar<br />
katular from the 9th century <strong>and</strong> Historia Salonitana by Toma<br />
Arhiđakon from the 13th century.<br />
Zoo<br />
Zoo (Zoološki vrt) C-2, Kolombatićevo šetalište 2,<br />
Marjan, tel. (+385-21) 39 45 25. Despite the presence<br />
of the occasional exotic beast here <strong>and</strong> there, Split‘s<br />
zoo is a rather modest affair that displays local farm<br />
animals alongside the odd Croatian wolf, boar or vulture.<br />
And unless you have kids <strong>in</strong> tow who need enterta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g,<br />
there‘s not much po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>in</strong> com<strong>in</strong>g to be honest. The cages<br />
do conta<strong>in</strong> some odd comb<strong>in</strong>ations, with peacocks,<br />
rabbits <strong>and</strong> sheep all shar<strong>in</strong>g one enclosure, <strong>and</strong> a<br />
bemused ostrich room<strong>in</strong>g with the Shetl<strong>and</strong> ponies <strong>in</strong><br />
another. The zoo‘s stamped<strong>in</strong>g herd of gu<strong>in</strong>ea pigs will<br />
trigger nightmare visions for anyone who remembers<br />
the “Trouble with Tribbles” episode of Star Trek. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.<br />
Churches<br />
Sa<strong>in</strong>t Dom<strong>in</strong>ic‘s Church <strong>and</strong> Monastery (Crkva<br />
i Samostan sv. Dom<strong>in</strong>ika) J-2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 32 34 71, samostan.split@dom<strong>in</strong>ikanci.hr,<br />
www.dom<strong>in</strong>ikanci.hr/zupa-gospe-od-ruzarija. Across from<br />
the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Sa<strong>in</strong>t Dom<strong>in</strong>ic‘s<br />
Church. First mentioned <strong>in</strong> the 13th century, it acquired its<br />
current structure <strong>in</strong> 1682 <strong>and</strong> was widened at the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g<br />
of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the<br />
pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g of the ‘Miracle <strong>in</strong> Suriano‘ by Jacopo Palma Jr <strong>and</strong><br />
the ‘Vision <strong>in</strong> the Temple‘, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass:<br />
07:00, 08:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00,<br />
11:00 <strong>and</strong> 19:00. Q Open 06:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30.<br />
The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva<br />
Gospe od Zvonika) I-2. Just <strong>in</strong>side the Iron Gates <strong>in</strong>side<br />
Diocletian‘s Palace you will f<strong>in</strong>d the entry to a chapel. Founded<br />
<strong>in</strong> the 6th century under Byzant<strong>in</strong>e rule, the chapel was<br />
consecrated to St Theodore, patron sa<strong>in</strong>t of soldiers. It‘s bell<br />
tower, built around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque<br />
bell tower <strong>in</strong> Dalmatia. The chapel was renamed after a 13th<br />
century medieval icon which once hung <strong>in</strong> the chapel <strong>and</strong> is<br />
now kept <strong>in</strong> the Cathedral Treasury.<br />
The Church of Sa<strong>in</strong>t Francis (Samostanska crkva<br />
sv. Frane) I-2, Trg Republike. When you climb to the<br />
Marjan Mounta<strong>in</strong>, you‘ll pass by the church of Sa<strong>in</strong>t Francais<br />
(13th century) <strong>in</strong> which there are headstones that depict<br />
renaissance f<strong>in</strong>e art. The headstones are of famous writer<br />
Marko Marulić (1450-1524), the tombs of Jero Kavanjan<strong>in</strong><br />
(1641-1714), Toma Arhiđakon (around 1200-1268) as well<br />
composer Ivan Lukačić (1548-1648). Numerous baroque<br />
pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>and</strong> statues decorate the <strong>in</strong>side of the church, not<br />
to mention the gothic cloister on the outside.<br />
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Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
The Church of Sa<strong>in</strong>t Mart<strong>in</strong> (Golden gate)<br />
(Crkvica sv. Mart<strong>in</strong>a) J-2, . The church is 1.64m wide<br />
<strong>and</strong> 10m long <strong>and</strong> it just might be the smallest church <strong>in</strong><br />
the world. It used to be the passage for watchmen who<br />
would secure the entrance <strong>in</strong>to the Diocletian Palace. At the<br />
beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of the 9th century it was turned <strong>in</strong>to a Christian<br />
church <strong>and</strong> consecrated to Sa<strong>in</strong>t Mart<strong>in</strong>. Next to the church,<br />
there is a Dom<strong>in</strong>ican convent. The first nuns arrived to Split <strong>in</strong><br />
the 14th century <strong>and</strong> settled next to the church at the Golden<br />
Gates. They were called picokare. Today, the nuns take care<br />
of the nearby Cathedral of Sa<strong>in</strong>t Domnius.<br />
The Franciscan Church <strong>and</strong> Monastery of<br />
the Assumption of the Blessed Virg<strong>in</strong> Mary<br />
(Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja<br />
Blažene Djevice Marije) C-1, Poljudsko šetalište 2,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 38 13 77, samostan.poljud@gmail.com,<br />
www.samostan-poljud.com. On the northern side of the<br />
Split pen<strong>in</strong>sula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you‘ll f<strong>in</strong>d the<br />
Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives<br />
from the Lat<strong>in</strong> word swamp (Paludes) s<strong>in</strong>ce until recently, this<br />
area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop<br />
Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de<br />
Palude). The Franciscan church <strong>and</strong> monastery is the most<br />
valuable gothic-renaissance complex <strong>in</strong> Split. The church <strong>and</strong><br />
monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts.<br />
The oldest object is a gothic drawer for <strong>in</strong>cense from the<br />
15th century <strong>and</strong> a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th<br />
century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from<br />
the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III<br />
<strong>in</strong> 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virg<strong>in</strong>‘s<br />
feast days <strong>and</strong> on the first Sundays of the month, visited the<br />
Poljud sanctuary <strong>and</strong> gave donations for its construction.<br />
Mass: 07:00 <strong>and</strong> 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 08:30, 10:00 <strong>and</strong><br />
20:00. Q Open by prior arrangement.<br />
The Sa<strong>in</strong>t Clara Monastery <strong>and</strong> Church (Samostan<br />
i Crkva sv. Klare) K-1, Klar<strong>in</strong>a 1a. A well ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed<br />
church which is home to a pa<strong>in</strong>ted 13th century Romanesque<br />
crucifix, several icons as well as renaissance <strong>and</strong> baroque<br />
pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs by Venetian artists.<br />
City tours<br />
Sirena J-2, Mihaljevićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 25 16<br />
10, sirena.split@hi.t-com.hr, www.sirena-book<strong>in</strong>g.hr.<br />
Book<strong>in</strong>g also at Peristil. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.<br />
Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81<br />
41, <strong>in</strong>fo@travel49.com, www.travel49.com. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00.<br />
L<strong>and</strong>marks<br />
Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno<br />
kazalište) I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 49<br />
99/(+385-21) 30 69 08, hnk-split@hnk-split.hr, www.<br />
hnk-split.hr. The story of Croatia‘s National Theatre <strong>in</strong> Split<br />
is long <strong>and</strong> complicated but beg<strong>in</strong>s on December 26, 1859,<br />
right near the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of a period of autonomy <strong>in</strong> the city.<br />
Antonio Bajamonti was, dur<strong>in</strong>g a brief respite from Venetian<br />
<strong>and</strong> Austro-Hungarian control, the city‘s leader <strong>and</strong> a pr<strong>in</strong>cipal<br />
<strong>in</strong>vestor <strong>in</strong> the theatre that ultimately bore his name. Sadly,<br />
that theatre was almost completely destroyed <strong>in</strong> a fire <strong>in</strong> 1881<br />
<strong>and</strong> plans to re-build on the orig<strong>in</strong>al site were never realised.<br />
The theatre was relocated to its present location on (street)<br />
<strong>and</strong> has resided there s<strong>in</strong>ce.<br />
Look<strong>in</strong>g for more?<br />
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split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
What to see<br />
Summer 2011<br />
29
30 What to see<br />
Grgur N<strong>in</strong>ski J-2. In 926, the representatives of Croatian<br />
churches were called together by Pope Ivan X <strong>in</strong> order to<br />
conduct a reform of the then current church system. The<br />
Great Assembly took place <strong>in</strong> Split <strong>and</strong>, <strong>in</strong> accordance with<br />
the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed<br />
<strong>in</strong> the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass <strong>and</strong><br />
official Church bus<strong>in</strong>ess be<strong>in</strong>g Lat<strong>in</strong>. Naturally, this started a<br />
firestorm of debate, with churches splitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to two factions.<br />
In the middle of this debate <strong>and</strong> fight<strong>in</strong>g fervently on the side of<br />
Old Slavic language was Grgur N<strong>in</strong>ski, also known as Gregory<br />
of N<strong>in</strong>. In the midst of a tumultous series of political <strong>and</strong> Church<br />
<strong>in</strong>trigues, he became the champion of the cause <strong>and</strong> today is<br />
recognised as a Croatian national hero <strong>and</strong> one of the fathers<br />
of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive<br />
Grgur N<strong>in</strong>ski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan<br />
Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (<strong>and</strong> you can<br />
rub his sh<strong>in</strong>y big toe for good luck).<br />
Poljud Stadium (Stadion Poljud). Known to locals<br />
as „Poljudska ljepotica“ or the „Poljud beauty“, Poljud is the<br />
second largest stadium <strong>in</strong> Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium<br />
<strong>in</strong> Zagreb) <strong>and</strong> has a capacity of 35,000 people. Poljud was<br />
slated for a massive re-construction <strong>in</strong> anticipation of a jo<strong>in</strong>t<br />
Croatia / Hungary bid to host the UEFA cup <strong>in</strong> 2012. However,<br />
as Pol<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> the Ukra<strong>in</strong>e were chosen to host the games,<br />
Adriatic photo service<br />
Diocletian<br />
The history of the early part of his life is rather fuzzy,<br />
but Diocles (also Diocletian <strong>in</strong> English) is believed to<br />
have been born <strong>in</strong> about 244 near Sol<strong>in</strong>, 8km away from<br />
present-day Split. Diocletian was Roman Emperor from<br />
November 20, 284 to May 1, 305 <strong>and</strong>, by establish<strong>in</strong>g a<br />
strong autocracy <strong>and</strong> strengthen<strong>in</strong>g the military, brought<br />
an end to the period of the Roman Empire known as the<br />
“Crisis of the Third Century.”<br />
One of the many dist<strong>in</strong>ctions of Diocletian’s rule was the<br />
creation of the Tetrarchy, which is generally credited with<br />
end<strong>in</strong>g the aforementioned Crisis of the Third Century. To<br />
distribute power <strong>and</strong> authority more evenly, Diocletian<br />
<strong>in</strong>itially named a co-emperor, Maximian, to look after<br />
affairs <strong>in</strong> the Western regions of the Empire. In 293,<br />
desir<strong>in</strong>g even more focus on civic <strong>and</strong> military matters,<br />
two more Caesars (junior emperors) were named, with<br />
each leader operat<strong>in</strong>g out of their own capital on on the<br />
frontiers of the Empire.<br />
After twenty years of rule,<br />
Diocletian <strong>and</strong> Maximian<br />
abdicated power. Newlyappo<strong>in</strong>ted<br />
Tetrarchs quickly<br />
made the system of rule a<br />
formula for civil war, <strong>and</strong> this<br />
unique form of government<br />
collapsed. Diocletian saw<br />
his friends <strong>and</strong> allies turn<br />
aga<strong>in</strong>st him <strong>and</strong> each other,<br />
with Maximian even forced<br />
to commit suicide. By this<br />
time, Diocletian was <strong>in</strong><br />
his elaborate retirement<br />
palace that he had had<br />
constructed, the ru<strong>in</strong>s of<br />
which form the core of the<br />
old town of modern-day<br />
Split. On December 3, 311,<br />
after a tumultuous life as the<br />
leader of the Roman empire,<br />
Diocletian died.<br />
the re-construction plan has been put on hold. The stadium<br />
was orig<strong>in</strong>ally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as<br />
part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games <strong>and</strong><br />
was officially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed<br />
fan of the team who play their home games <strong>in</strong> Poljud, HNK<br />
Hajduk Split.By far the most important <strong>and</strong> revered sports<br />
team <strong>in</strong> Dalmatia, a dedicated fanbase around the world has<br />
followed Hajduk throughout the team‘s history. In the former<br />
Yugoslavia, Hajduk was one of the few teams to attract<br />
fans from different regions <strong>and</strong> ethnicities, particularly with<br />
Albanians <strong>in</strong> Kosovo. And there are numerous anecdotes<br />
about Hajduk never play<strong>in</strong>g a game without at least some of<br />
their loyal fans <strong>in</strong> the st<strong>and</strong>s, the Torcida. Named for Brazilian<br />
football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
1950 World Cup (<strong>in</strong> Portugese, torcer is ‚to cheer‘), the<br />
Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters<br />
groups <strong>in</strong> Europe. The Torcida generally call Hajduk players<br />
as „bili“, which <strong>in</strong> local dialect is the plural form of bijeli, or<br />
white, <strong>in</strong> reference to the white shirts that, along with blue<br />
shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform.Along with the team‘s<br />
rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivat<strong>in</strong>g quality football<br />
players, with several go<strong>in</strong>g on to illustrious careers <strong>in</strong> European<br />
club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national<br />
team placed third <strong>in</strong> the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven<br />
starters were former Hajduk players.<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Prokurative (Trg Republike) I-2, Trg Republike.<br />
Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large, open square<br />
surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate<br />
neo-Renaissance build<strong>in</strong>gs known as the Prokurative. On<br />
the southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of<br />
the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision of<br />
General Marmont, with the build<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>in</strong>spired largely by the<br />
architecture of the same period <strong>in</strong> Venice. While relatively<br />
unoccupied <strong>in</strong> the cooler months, the square comes alive<br />
<strong>in</strong> the summer with concerts <strong>and</strong> cultural events, the most<br />
popular be<strong>in</strong>g the Enterta<strong>in</strong>ment Musical Festival of Split.<br />
Streets <strong>and</strong> Squares<br />
Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) I-2. From<br />
1806 to 1813, Napoleon ruled the city of Split, along with<br />
many of its Dalmatian neighbour-cities. Apparently, the French<br />
dem<strong>and</strong>ed to occupy a relatively sophisticated city, as many<br />
urban improvements were made under the supervision of the<br />
French General Auguste Marmont. Walls were torn down, new<br />
roads were built <strong>and</strong> electricity powered the city for the first<br />
time. To return the favour, Split has immortalized Marmont<br />
<strong>in</strong> the name of this popular pedestrian street, full of posh<br />
shops <strong>and</strong> cafés.<br />
Narodni (People‘s) Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca)<br />
I-2, . A trip west from the Peristyle along Krešimirova takes<br />
you through the Iron Gate <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>to Narodni trg, commonly<br />
referred to as Pjaca, a Croatian form of the Italian word<br />
piazza. In the fourteenth century, this square replaced the<br />
Peristyle as the city‘s central meet<strong>in</strong>g area <strong>and</strong> it rema<strong>in</strong>s so<br />
to this day. The square is overlooked by a Romanesque clock<br />
with the rema<strong>in</strong>s of a medieval sundial <strong>in</strong> front of a larger, older<br />
belfry <strong>and</strong> conta<strong>in</strong>s numerous shops <strong>and</strong> cafés. The north<br />
side of the square is taken up by the Town Hall (Gradska<br />
vijećnica), a fifteenth-century construction that hosts art<br />
or history exhibitions <strong>in</strong> the summer months.<br />
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What to see<br />
Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće Radića) I-2, .<br />
Now home to various shops <strong>and</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>esses, Trg braće Radić<br />
was once home to a bustl<strong>in</strong>g fruit market <strong>and</strong> so has been<br />
given the unofficial name of Voćni trg. This translates to, you<br />
might have guessed, fruit square. These days there‘s no fruit<br />
<strong>in</strong> sight, but there are several shops <strong>and</strong> po<strong>in</strong>ts of <strong>in</strong>terest<br />
that call this square home, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the Venetian castello <strong>and</strong><br />
tower, both of which were constructed <strong>in</strong> 1435. The northern<br />
side of the square is dom<strong>in</strong>ated by the Milesi Palace, one of<br />
the best examples of Baroque architecture <strong>in</strong> Dalmatia. The<br />
statue that st<strong>and</strong>s <strong>in</strong> front of the palace is relatively small but<br />
represents a large figure from Croatian history, that of Marko<br />
Marulić, a 15th-century poet who was one of the first literary<br />
figures to use Croatian language. The statue was created by<br />
another em<strong>in</strong>ent Croatian historial figure, Ivan Meštrović.<br />
F<strong>in</strong>e look<strong>in</strong>´ Ladies<br />
Ask a Croatian where to go to see the most beautiful<br />
women <strong>and</strong> most will po<strong>in</strong>t you directly to Split (even<br />
the bitter females of the population). A strange <strong>and</strong><br />
nearly mystical aura surrounds these creatures, <strong>and</strong><br />
<strong>in</strong>deed the world fashion <strong>in</strong>dustry makes no secret of<br />
this locales rare ability to produce goddesses. They are<br />
known especially for the comb<strong>in</strong>ation of amaz<strong>in</strong>g height,<br />
ample bosom, brilliant Mediterranean Slavic features<br />
<strong>and</strong> a scorn for writers of city guides.<br />
Summer 2011<br />
31
32 mail & phoNes<br />
Post<br />
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can<br />
buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they‘re<br />
right value for what you are send<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> where. Once you<br />
put it on, drop your mail <strong>in</strong> any post box.These are the small<br />
yellow boxes attached to build<strong>in</strong>gs around town.<br />
Ma<strong>in</strong> post office E-1, Hercegovačka 1, tel. (+385-21)<br />
38 33 65/(+385-21) 34 24 00. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Post office I/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. (+385-21)<br />
36 14 21, www.posta.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Express mail<br />
DHL E/F-3, Poljička cesta 29, tel. (+385-1) 665 11<br />
11, hrspu@dhl.com, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
IN TIME D-1, Put St<strong>in</strong>ica bb, tel. (+385-21) 50 81 66/<br />
(+385-) 091 626 20 30, 091 626 20 78, split@<strong>in</strong>-time.<br />
hr, www.<strong>in</strong>-time.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. N<br />
OverseasExpress J-1, Domov<strong>in</strong>skog rata 10, Dugopolje,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 66 01 53/(+385-21) 66 01 55, split@<br />
overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N<br />
City express mail<br />
City Ex F-2, Ulica grada Vukovara 183a, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 37 66 77/(+385-) 0800 303 333, split@cityex.hr,<br />
www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sun. N<br />
Internet places<br />
Cyber club 100D J-1, S<strong>in</strong>jska 2/4, tel. (+385-21) 34<br />
81 10, <strong>in</strong>fo100D@gmail.com. Internet use - 20kn/hour, half<br />
hour 10kn, pr<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g 1kn/per page. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00,<br />
Sun 16:00 - 22:00.<br />
Net Com D-3, Poljana Grgura N<strong>in</strong>skog 9 (Peristil), tel.<br />
(+385-21) 34 76 61/(+385-) 091 311 42 22, <strong>in</strong>fo@n-c.<br />
hr, www.n-c.hr. Internet use - first 15m<strong>in</strong> / 5kn, price of every<br />
next m<strong>in</strong>ute is 0.33kn. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81<br />
41, www.travel49.com. 10kn/20m<strong>in</strong>, 30kn/h. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 22:00.<br />
Mak<strong>in</strong>g the call<br />
You‘ve memorised the mislead<strong>in</strong>gly simple code break-down,<br />
<strong>and</strong> are ready to take the plunge (let‘s hope you decided<br />
not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here‘s<br />
the trick: dial the subscriber‘s six- or seven-digit number,<br />
<strong>and</strong> place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the<br />
Croatian city code ((0)21 if you‘re call<strong>in</strong>g Split for <strong>in</strong>stance)<br />
followed by the subscriber‘s number. Call<strong>in</strong>g Abroad:<br />
Dial 00 (the <strong>in</strong>ternational access code), the appropriate<br />
country code, a city or area code if applicable <strong>and</strong> the<br />
subscriber‘s number. Call<strong>in</strong>g Croatia from Abroad: Dial<br />
your <strong>in</strong>ternational access code, 385 (Croatia‘s country code),<br />
the city code (dropp<strong>in</strong>g the <strong>in</strong>itial 0) <strong>and</strong> the subscriber‘s<br />
number. Call<strong>in</strong>g a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits<br />
<strong>and</strong> beg<strong>in</strong> with either 091,098,099, 092 <strong>and</strong> 095. Dial the<br />
subscriber‘s number <strong>and</strong> wait for a human voice. For an<br />
<strong>in</strong>ternational call to a Croatian mobile, dial your <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />
acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, <strong>and</strong> then dial<br />
the rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g digits.<br />
Mobile phones<br />
Mobile phone use <strong>in</strong> Split is typical to most everywhere <strong>in</strong><br />
Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have<br />
attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are<br />
the numerous <strong>and</strong> excit<strong>in</strong>g tonal renditions of show-tunes <strong>and</strong><br />
80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It<br />
seems that churches <strong>and</strong> c<strong>in</strong>emas rema<strong>in</strong> the only structures<br />
holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation <strong>in</strong><br />
this central European location. The networks that exist are<br />
VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) <strong>and</strong> Tele 2 (095) <strong>and</strong> their<br />
SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-asyou-go<br />
cards <strong>in</strong> news kiosks, or top up at a cash mach<strong>in</strong>e.<br />
SIM Cards: Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the<br />
follow<strong>in</strong>g. They all have numerous sell<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts throughout<br />
the city if the below addresses aren‘t convenient for you.<br />
T-Centar I-2/J-1, Marmontova 7-9, tel. (+385-) 0800<br />
15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
T-Centar F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 18a, tel. (+385-) 0800<br />
15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. A<br />
Tele 2 I-2, Zadarska 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 60 02,<br />
alo2@aloalo.hr, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Vip centar F-2, Vukovarska 207 (City Centre One), tel.<br />
(+385-) 091 77 00, sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.<br />
vipnet.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Vip centar I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00,<br />
sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Public telephone<br />
All public phones <strong>in</strong> Croatia are card operated <strong>and</strong> you<br />
can purchase one (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk<br />
- they come <strong>in</strong> 15-100 units <strong>and</strong> cost 15, 30, 50 <strong>and</strong><br />
100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone<br />
cards which give you substantial discounts when call<strong>in</strong>g<br />
abroad.<br />
Call<strong>in</strong>g Split<br />
From Zagreb: dial (021) <strong>and</strong> the number<br />
Outside Croatia: dial (+385-21) <strong>and</strong> the number<br />
Postal rates<br />
Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10 kn<br />
Abroad 7,10 kn<br />
Postcrads Croatia 1,60 kn<br />
Abroad 3,10 kn<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Public Transport<br />
Day bus l<strong>in</strong>es 1 through 18 <strong>and</strong> 21, 22 run from 05:00<br />
to 23:00. There are three night buses, number 23,<br />
39, 40 which run on Fridays <strong>and</strong> Saturdays. Maps <strong>and</strong><br />
schedules for each l<strong>in</strong>e can be found at their respective<br />
stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 10kn or<br />
from kiosks near each bus stop for 8kn. The company<br />
that operates Split‘s buses is called Promet Split, so<br />
make sure the kiosk has that name on it before try<strong>in</strong>g<br />
to buy a ticket. If you‘re try<strong>in</strong>g to beat the system <strong>and</strong><br />
rid<strong>in</strong>g without a ticket, the penalty when caught (<strong>and</strong> you<br />
most certa<strong>in</strong>ly will be, buddy!) is 50kn. Split is covered<br />
by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere<br />
<strong>in</strong> the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the ma<strong>in</strong> station from<br />
which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport<br />
<strong>and</strong> other dest<strong>in</strong>ations outside of Split. Sukoišanska‘s<br />
ticket office operates from 06:00 to 20:00 on weekdays,<br />
06:00 to 12:00 on Saturdays <strong>and</strong> is closed on Sunday.<br />
To contact the Sukoišanska station, dial (+385-21) 48<br />
06 56. For general <strong>in</strong>formation regard<strong>in</strong>g bus services,<br />
call (+385-21) 40 79 99.<br />
Promet Split E-1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 40 78 88, promet@promet-split.hr, www.<br />
promet-split.hr.<br />
Taxi<br />
The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 970. The<br />
start<strong>in</strong>g fee for a taxi trip is 20kn, with a 10kn fee added<br />
per kilometre <strong>and</strong> 2.5 - 10kn added per each piece of<br />
luggage. There is no additional charge for travel<strong>in</strong>g at<br />
night. Taxis wait <strong>in</strong> front of most major hotels, Firule <strong>and</strong><br />
Križ<strong>in</strong>a hospitals, at the ferry port, at the ma<strong>in</strong> bus station<br />
<strong>and</strong> near the Riva.<br />
Tra<strong>in</strong>s<br />
Ma<strong>in</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9,<br />
tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.<br />
hznet.hr. The ma<strong>in</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> station is situated next to the<br />
bus station <strong>and</strong> doesn‘t offer many possibilities to travel<br />
around, save for frequent tra<strong>in</strong>s to Zagreb, from which you<br />
can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to<br />
Zagreb takes about eight hours, which <strong>in</strong> the summer can<br />
be made a lot less tiresome by the weekend disco tra<strong>in</strong>, on<br />
which passengers can enjoy the trip with danc<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> music.<br />
If you happen to be leav<strong>in</strong>g on a night tra<strong>in</strong> from Zagreb at<br />
22:50 or a night tra<strong>in</strong> from Split at 21:37, there‘s one more<br />
really h<strong>and</strong>y service offered at the tra<strong>in</strong> station. If you have<br />
a car or motorbike <strong>and</strong> don‘t feel like driv<strong>in</strong>g at night, you<br />
can load your vehicle onto the tra<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> collect it at your<br />
dest<strong>in</strong>ation for a fee of 186.30 - 266.30kn, plus the price<br />
of a passenger ticket.<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
gettiNg aRouNd<br />
Buses<br />
Ma<strong>in</strong> bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,<br />
Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/<br />
(+385-21) 32 91 80, <strong>in</strong>fo@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.<br />
The ma<strong>in</strong> bus station isn‘t the most impressive build<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />
town, but it is well organized <strong>and</strong> conveniently located next<br />
to the ferry port <strong>and</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> station, which are all about ten<br />
m<strong>in</strong>utes‘ walk to the old town. If you‘re plann<strong>in</strong>g a return trip<br />
to a domestic dest<strong>in</strong>ation, make sure to check bus operators<br />
<strong>and</strong> travel times, as return tickets usually require you to<br />
travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also,<br />
if you happen to be travel<strong>in</strong>g to the northern part of Croatia,<br />
check if the bus will be us<strong>in</strong>g the new highway or the curvy,<br />
car-sickness-<strong>in</strong>duc<strong>in</strong>g but aesthetically-pleas<strong>in</strong>g old roads,<br />
which can affect the length of your trip. Information about<br />
prices <strong>and</strong> departure/arrival times is available 24 hours at<br />
the <strong>in</strong>formation desk. The <strong>in</strong>ternational ticket office is open<br />
06:00 - 21:30.<br />
Summer 2011<br />
33
34 gettiNg aRouNd<br />
If you wish to travel to the Croatian capital Zagreb, the bus<br />
ride via freeway is 5 hours approximately. The first ride starts<br />
at 1:00am with buses leav<strong>in</strong>g every hour thereafter. The last<br />
bus leaves at 23:59.<br />
For those wish<strong>in</strong>g to visit the Plitvice National Park there<br />
are four bus l<strong>in</strong>es from Split. The first leaves at 08:30 <strong>and</strong> is<br />
followed by another at 12:00, 20:15 <strong>and</strong> 22:45.<br />
Dubrovnik is at the very south of Croatia <strong>and</strong> is approximately<br />
5 hours from Split by bus. The first bus leaves at 1:30 <strong>and</strong><br />
the last at 17:15.<br />
Makarska is almost half way to Dubrovnik <strong>and</strong> the first bus<br />
l<strong>in</strong>e towards this beautiful coastal town leaves at 1:30 with<br />
the last at 22:30. Bus l<strong>in</strong>es leave almost every hour <strong>and</strong> the<br />
trip takes about 1 hour.<br />
The first bus to Rijeka leaves at 05:00 <strong>and</strong> the trip takes<br />
about 7 hours, whilst the last bus leaves from Split to<br />
Rijeka at 21:30. There are eight bus l<strong>in</strong>es towards Rijeka<br />
every day.<br />
Car rental<br />
ABC I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 23 64/<br />
(+385-) 099 342 30 01, prizmic@st.t-com.hr, www.<br />
rentacar-abc.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />
14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A<br />
Budget I-3/J-3, Obala Ante Trumbića 18, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 32 26 89, split.td@budget.hr, www.budget.hr.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Dollar&Thrifty H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 39 90 00/(+385-21) 39 88 00, subrosa@subrosa.<br />
hr, www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00<br />
- 12:00. A<br />
Emaco E-2/3/F-2, Matice Hrvatske 14 (Buss<strong>in</strong>es<br />
center Koteks), tel. (+385-21) 53 95 06/(+385-1) 098<br />
25 51 88, emaco@emaco.hr, www.emaco.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Europcar Cesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić<br />
(Zračna luka Split - Kaštela), tel. (+385-21) 89 50 19/<br />
(+385-) 098 23 10 81, rentacar-st@unil<strong>in</strong>e.hr, www.<br />
europcar.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Hertz C-3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 04<br />
55/(+385-) 091 360 45 51, split.dt@hertz.hr, www.<br />
hetz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Rent A Smart , tel. (+385-1) 487 61 72, <strong>in</strong>fo@<br />
rentasmart.hr, www.rentasmart.hr. Free <strong>in</strong>fo 0800 25<br />
25 25 Q A<br />
Uni Rent C-3, Šperun 2, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 97, split@<br />
uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A<br />
Park<strong>in</strong>g<br />
First <strong>and</strong> foremost, pay heed to the solemn pleas of our editor<br />
<strong>and</strong> please, please, please respect the park<strong>in</strong>g laws of Split<br />
(<strong>and</strong> any other city you might be visit<strong>in</strong>g). Now that we‘ve<br />
sufficiently guilt-tripped you <strong>in</strong>to behav<strong>in</strong>g yourself, we can<br />
cont<strong>in</strong>ue. There are four park<strong>in</strong>g zones. The price is 3kn/hr<br />
<strong>in</strong> all zones, the only difference is <strong>in</strong> the times when park<strong>in</strong>g<br />
is charged. In the Zone 1 park<strong>in</strong>g is payable 06:30 - 21:30,<br />
<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> Zones 2, 3 <strong>and</strong> 4 07:00 - 19:00. You can also pay<br />
us<strong>in</strong>g your mobile for the same price of 3kn/h. However, be<br />
aware of the time, s<strong>in</strong>ce if you are caught without a ticket<br />
when you‘re supposed to have one you might catch a f<strong>in</strong>e of<br />
45kn (Zone 1), or 36kn for all other zones.<br />
Aside from zoned street park<strong>in</strong>g, another option for park<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>in</strong> Split is guarded park<strong>in</strong>g areas, which vary <strong>in</strong> price per hour<br />
from 6 to 10 kn depend<strong>in</strong>g on your proximity to the centre. So,<br />
if you‘re park<strong>in</strong>g near the Riva, you can bet on the maximum<br />
10kn fee. Most of the lots operate around the clock.<br />
SMS Park<strong>in</strong>g<br />
There are 4 zones <strong>in</strong>dicated by signs on park<strong>in</strong>g boxes<br />
located at even <strong>in</strong>tervals along the street: zone 1 (red -<br />
8211), zone 2 (blue - 8212), zone 3 (green - 8213) <strong>and</strong><br />
zone 4 (yellow - 8214). You get a ticket at the box under<br />
the park<strong>in</strong>g sign or use your mobile phone to pay by<br />
send<strong>in</strong>g an SMS with your registration number (no gaps)<br />
to the number shown on the box (remember to <strong>in</strong>clude<br />
the <strong>in</strong>ternational dial<strong>in</strong>g code if you‘re us<strong>in</strong>g a foreign<br />
mobile). A few m<strong>in</strong>utes before your hour of paid park<strong>in</strong>g<br />
runs out, you‘ll get a message to rem<strong>in</strong>d you to refresh<br />
your lease of the space or move your car.<br />
Promet Split D-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48<br />
10 97, park<strong>in</strong>g@promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.<br />
Airport<br />
Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)<br />
Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr,<br />
www.split-airport.hr. The airport is relatively<br />
small but serves a fair number of domestic <strong>and</strong> European<br />
cities. If you‘re not able to fly to your dest<strong>in</strong>ation from Split,<br />
there are daily flights to Zagreb, which is a bit more connected<br />
to the outside world. The airport can be reached by hopp<strong>in</strong>g<br />
on bus number 37 (bound for Trogir) from Sukoišanska. The<br />
bus runs every 20 m<strong>in</strong>utes on weekdays <strong>and</strong> every 30 m<strong>in</strong>utes<br />
on weekends. If you happen to have the dist<strong>in</strong>ction of be<strong>in</strong>g a<br />
Croatia Airl<strong>in</strong>es passenger, you can take the airport bus that<br />
waits at the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of the Riva, an hour <strong>and</strong> a half before<br />
Croatia Airl<strong>in</strong>es flights. If you didn‘t manage to blow all your<br />
kunas on coffees on the Riva, you can exhange them <strong>in</strong> the<br />
offices run by Splitska banka or at the post office, both of which<br />
are located <strong>in</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong> hall of the airport.<br />
And if you did manage to blow all your kunas on shopp<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
enquire at the <strong>in</strong>formation desk where you can confirm your<br />
tax-free form, as the office is not visually marked.<br />
Airl<strong>in</strong>e offices<br />
Aeroplan D-3, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. (+385-21)<br />
33 84 45/(+385-21) 33 84 46, aeroplan@st.t-com.hr.<br />
Malev, Adria Airways <strong>and</strong> Germanw<strong>in</strong>gs agent. Office at the<br />
airport, tel. 79 62 93. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. A<br />
Croatia Airl<strong>in</strong>es D-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog<br />
preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) 36 29 97, sputo@<br />
croatiaairl<strong>in</strong>es.hr, www.croatiaairl<strong>in</strong>es.com. There is<br />
also an office at the airport, tel. 021 20 33 05. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
TUI Generalturist I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+385-21)<br />
34 51 83/(+385-21) 34 55 91, psplit@generalturist.<br />
com, www.generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Airport bus<br />
If you‘re fly<strong>in</strong>g with Croatia Airl<strong>in</strong>es you can check the bus<br />
timetable at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or on (+385-21) 20<br />
31 19. At the moment the bus stop is on the corner of the<br />
Riva (the seafront) <strong>and</strong> the road which leads to the port,<br />
coach <strong>and</strong> railway stations. However, the bus stop is due to<br />
be relocated to a spot right by the coach station.<br />
So it‘s wise to check with the airport <strong>in</strong> advance. The trip<br />
costs 30kn for a s<strong>in</strong>gle ticket, <strong>and</strong> kids under 6 go for free.<br />
Otherwise, take bus number 37 for Trogir from Sukoišanska<br />
bus station; tickets cost 16kn one way, leav<strong>in</strong>g every 20<br />
m<strong>in</strong>utes.<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com
36 gettiNg aRouNd<br />
Brač Airport<br />
Brač Airport Veško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21)<br />
55 97 01/(+385-21) 55 97 11, <strong>in</strong>fo@airport-brac.hr,<br />
www.airport-brac.hr. Situated 14km away from Bol <strong>and</strong><br />
30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the isl<strong>and</strong> of Brač,<br />
this small airport started operations <strong>in</strong> 1993 <strong>and</strong> is open year<br />
round, with charter flights organized only dur<strong>in</strong>g the summer.<br />
The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100<br />
passengers or fewer. Q June 1 -30 Open 08:00 - 16:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 18:30. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Bike rental<br />
Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81<br />
41, <strong>in</strong>fo@travel49.com, www.travel49.com. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 22:00.<br />
Charter<br />
BavAdria Yacht<strong>in</strong>g Šetalište kralja Tomislava bb,<br />
Kaštel Gomilica, tel. (+385-21) 20 40 20/(+385-) 098<br />
32 16 57, bavadria@bavadria.com, www.bavadria.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Euromar<strong>in</strong>e C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 31<br />
01/(+385-) 098 29 98 77, split@euromar<strong>in</strong>e.hr, www.<br />
euromar<strong>in</strong>e.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.<br />
Sun by request.<br />
Gr<strong>in</strong>go nautica E-3, Cvjetna 1, Mar<strong>in</strong>a Zenta, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 38 98 00/(+385-) 098 940 37 77, gr<strong>in</strong>go.<br />
nautica@gmail.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00<br />
- 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Nautika centar Nava C-3, Uvala Baluni 1, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 40 77 00/(+385-21) 40 77 02, charter@navaboats.<br />
com, www.navaboats.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sun<br />
by request.<br />
Orvas Yacht<strong>in</strong>g C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 32<br />
20 15/(+385-21) 098 45 22 25, orvas-yacht<strong>in</strong>g@orvas.<br />
hr, www.orvas-yacht<strong>in</strong>g.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Ultra C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 78/<br />
(+385-) 098 29 46 35, book<strong>in</strong>g@ultra-sail<strong>in</strong>g.hr, www.<br />
ultra-sail<strong>in</strong>g.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 -<br />
14:00.<br />
Yacht<strong>in</strong>g Plus F-1, Mostarska 99, tel. (+385-21) 32 13<br />
00/(+385-) 095 912 74 12, <strong>in</strong>fo@yacht<strong>in</strong>gplus.hr, www.<br />
yacht<strong>in</strong>gplus.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Ferries<br />
Given its location <strong>in</strong> the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as<br />
the ma<strong>in</strong> hub for reach<strong>in</strong>g the mid-Dalmatian isl<strong>and</strong>s like<br />
Hvar, Brač, Šolta <strong>and</strong> Vis. We‘ve expounded much on the<br />
convenient location of the ferry port <strong>and</strong> its proximity to the<br />
bus <strong>and</strong> tra<strong>in</strong> stations, but if you still don‘t know where it is,<br />
mak<strong>in</strong>g your way there has been simplified by those h<strong>and</strong>y<br />
signs all around town po<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g the way. On the street lead<strong>in</strong>g<br />
up to the ma<strong>in</strong> port build<strong>in</strong>g, there are Jadrol<strong>in</strong>ija kiosks<br />
that sell tickets for the ferries that operate to domestic<br />
dest<strong>in</strong>ations <strong>and</strong> Splittours kiosk that sells ticket for Split<br />
Ancona l<strong>in</strong>e. Inside the ma<strong>in</strong> port build<strong>in</strong>g, the Jadrol<strong>in</strong>ija <strong>and</strong><br />
Snav offices sell tickets for <strong>in</strong>ternational travel. The open<strong>in</strong>g<br />
hours of each office change accord<strong>in</strong>g to season, but dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
peak season, the kiosks for local travel close at around 20:00<br />
<strong>and</strong> the ma<strong>in</strong> office closes at midnight.<br />
For domestic travel, prices vary accord<strong>in</strong>g to which isl<strong>and</strong><br />
you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is someth<strong>in</strong>g<br />
like this: 33 - 68kn per person <strong>and</strong> 160 - 530kn for cars.<br />
Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn <strong>and</strong> bicycles 38 -<br />
62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee <strong>and</strong> we<br />
also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute<br />
little life vest.<br />
The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour<br />
<strong>and</strong> the trip to Vis takes about three <strong>and</strong> a half hours. On<br />
all ferries, you‘ll f<strong>in</strong>d bars where you can buy some snacks<br />
<strong>and</strong> a dr<strong>in</strong>k or two. One f<strong>in</strong>al, important note is that it‘s not<br />
possible to reserve tickets for local l<strong>in</strong>es ahead of time.<br />
You can buy them at any time <strong>and</strong> they are valid for any l<strong>in</strong>e<br />
operat<strong>in</strong>g that day; but to be sure your car will be placed on<br />
your desired ferry, you should be wait<strong>in</strong>g with your car about<br />
90 m<strong>in</strong>utes before the ferry departs. After you buy your<br />
ticket, the k<strong>in</strong>dly, multi-l<strong>in</strong>gual personnel will expla<strong>in</strong> to you<br />
from which dock the ferry leaves.<br />
Jadrol<strong>in</strong>ija D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83<br />
33, ag.split@jadrol<strong>in</strong>ija.hr, www.jadrol<strong>in</strong>ija.hr. This is the<br />
ma<strong>in</strong> company <strong>in</strong> Croatia that caters for public transportation<br />
towards the isl<strong>and</strong>s. QOpen 04:30 - 24:00.<br />
Kapetan Luka, Krilo Poljička cesta 28, Krilo Jesenice,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 87 28 77/(+385-) 091 205 98 86, luka.<br />
tomic@st.t-com.hr, www.krilo.hr. Tickets are available <strong>in</strong><br />
Jadrol<strong>in</strong>ija agency.<br />
MSC Krstarenja D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32<br />
22 52, split@msckrstarenja.com, www.msckrstarenja.<br />
com. SNAV agent. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry term<strong>in</strong>al), tel.<br />
(+385-21) 35 25 33, book<strong>in</strong>g@splitours.hr, www.<br />
splittours.hr. Blue L<strong>in</strong>e International (Split - Ancona l<strong>in</strong>e)<br />
agent. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva). Q Open 07:30 -<br />
20:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:00, Sun 15:00 - 20:30. June - October<br />
Open 07:30 - 20:30.<br />
Harbormaster‘s office<br />
Lučka kapetanija (Harbormaster‘s office) I-3,<br />
Obala Lazareta 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 55 00/(+385-21)<br />
36 24 36.<br />
Mar<strong>in</strong>as<br />
ACI Mar<strong>in</strong>a C-3, Uvala Baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 85<br />
99/(+385-21) 39 85 58, 39 85 49, m.split@aci-club.hr,<br />
www.aci-club.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
July - August 31 Open 07:30 - 21:30.<br />
Petrol station for boats<br />
INA-Obala H-3, Branimirova obala bb, tel. (+385-) 091<br />
497 12 45, www.<strong>in</strong>a.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Petrol stations (0-24)<br />
INA-Pojišan D/K-3, Pojišanska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 4971<br />
246, www.<strong>in</strong>a.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
INA-Visoka G/2-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. (+385-) 091<br />
497 12 50, www.<strong>in</strong>a.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Lukoil - Sirobuja G/2-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 31 67 60, www.lukoil.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
OMV-Istrabenz Magistrala bb, Kaštel Sućurac, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 26 08 19, www.omv.hr. QOpen 00:00 -<br />
24:00. A<br />
Port Authority<br />
Lučka uprava (Split Port Authority) D-3, Gat Sv.Duje<br />
1, tel. (+385-21) 33 82 62, lucka-uprava-split@st.t-com.<br />
hr, www.portsplit.com. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Towed away<br />
As evidenced by the empty park<strong>in</strong>g spot that your car<br />
previously occupied <strong>and</strong> that equally empty feel<strong>in</strong>g you have<br />
down <strong>in</strong> the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn‘t heed<br />
our request to respect the park<strong>in</strong>g laws of Split. Your ride<br />
has been towed away by what we refer to <strong>in</strong> English as the,<br />
ahem, tow-truck; or, <strong>in</strong> Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the<br />
car impound at Pujanke (F-2), so you‘ll need to shell out 340kn<br />
to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are accepted <strong>and</strong> the office<br />
is open around the clock. Tel. (+385-21) 37 68 48.<br />
Travel agencies<br />
Atlas D-3, Bosanska 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 30 55, split@<br />
atlas.hr, www.atlas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00<br />
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
gettiNg aRouNd<br />
F-tours putovanja J/2-3, Hrvojeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34<br />
48 42, desk@f-tours.hr, www.f-tours.hr. QOpen 08:30 -<br />
18:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Galileo J-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. (+385-21) 54 22<br />
33, <strong>in</strong>fo@galileo.hr, www.galileo.hr. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 35<br />
25 33, book<strong>in</strong>g@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Q<br />
Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:00, Sun 07:30 - 12:00,<br />
15:00 - 20:30. A<br />
Tarantela J-1, Domov<strong>in</strong>skog rata 27a, tel. (+385-21)<br />
33 24 60/(+385-21) 33 24 59, tarantela@st.t-com.hr,<br />
www.tarantela.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 -<br />
12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
TUI Generalturist I/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 34 51 83/(+385-21) 34 54 40, psplit@generalturist.<br />
com, www.generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Road help<br />
HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, , tel. (+385-21)<br />
1987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown <strong>and</strong><br />
tow<strong>in</strong>g service is available 24 hours a day.<br />
For road <strong>in</strong>formation 24 hours a day dial 062 77 77 77;<br />
dur<strong>in</strong>g summer you can hear it on the radio <strong>in</strong> English,<br />
Italian <strong>and</strong> German.<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011<br />
37
Brela Tourist board<br />
Adventure sports<br />
Adventure Dalmatia D-3, Matije Gupca 26, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 54 06 42/(+385-) 091 501 29 13, 091 526 38 13,<br />
www.adventuredalmatia.com. Raft<strong>in</strong>g on the River Cet<strong>in</strong>a,<br />
sea kayak<strong>in</strong>g, canyon<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
Dalmatia Raft<strong>in</strong>g D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 8a, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 32 16 98/(+385-) 098 169 77 49, cet<strong>in</strong>a@<br />
dalmatiaraft<strong>in</strong>g.com, www.dalmatiaraft<strong>in</strong>g.com. Raft<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
canoe<strong>in</strong>g, kayak<strong>in</strong>g, free climb<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> pa<strong>in</strong>tball. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Falco Tours D/E-3, Žrnovnička 11, tel. (+385-21) 54<br />
86 46/(+385-) 091 786 72 20, <strong>in</strong>fo@falco-tours.com,<br />
www.falco-tours.com. Call for arrangements.<br />
Radmanove Ml<strong>in</strong>ice Poljički trg 2, Omiš, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 86 22 38/(+385-) 098 81 36 80, <strong>in</strong>fo@radmanoveml<strong>in</strong>ice.hr,<br />
www.radmanove-ml<strong>in</strong>ice.hr. Raft<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong><br />
canoe<strong>in</strong>g. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
SPK Marulianus D-2, Tončićeva 1/2, tel. (+385-) 091<br />
529 59 90, <strong>in</strong>fo@marulianus.hr, www.marulianus.hr.<br />
Sport climb<strong>in</strong>g club. Q Work<strong>in</strong>g hours by arrangement.<br />
Flip<br />
Aero club Split C-2, Tesl<strong>in</strong>a 27, tel. (+385-21) 38 50<br />
28/(+385-) 091 512 23 36, miljenko.jelic@st.t-com.<br />
hr, www.aksplit.hr.<br />
Paraglid<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Alternatura Hrvatskih mučenika 2, Komiža, Vis, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 71 72 39/(+385-) 091 250 38 09, 091 520<br />
50 80, alternatura@alternatura.hr, www.alternatura.hr.<br />
Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. A<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
leisuRe<br />
Sail<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Ultra C-3, Uvala baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 78/<br />
(+385-21) 39 89 80, book<strong>in</strong>g@ultra-sail<strong>in</strong>g.hr, www.<br />
ultra-sail<strong>in</strong>g.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Scuba div<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Akvatorij D-1, Put Supavla 21/III, tel. (+385-21) 45<br />
95 45/(+385-) 091 313 21 20, 091 313 21 21, <strong>in</strong>fo@<br />
akvatorij.hr, www.akvatorij.hr. Div<strong>in</strong>g school only, no tourist<br />
excursions. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Tennis<br />
TK Dalmacijacement Marka Marulića 24, Sol<strong>in</strong>, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 21 24 42. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 23:00.<br />
day time 50kn/h, night time 60kn/h.<br />
TK Split E-3, Put Firula 18, tel. (+385-21) 38 95 76,<br />
www.tk-split.hr. Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:30,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. daytime 50kn/h,<br />
night 75kn/h.<br />
W<strong>in</strong>dsurf<strong>in</strong>g<br />
7 Bofora D-2, Kavanj<strong>in</strong>ova 14, tel. (+385-21) 48<br />
04 28/(+385-) 091 516 62 01, <strong>in</strong>fo@7bofora.com,<br />
www.7bofora.com. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 -<br />
14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Big Blue Podan glavice 2, Bol, Brač, tel. (+385-21) 63<br />
56 14, tomaz@big-blue-sport.hr, www.big-blue-sport.<br />
hr. W<strong>in</strong>dsurf<strong>in</strong>g, div<strong>in</strong>g, sea-kayak<strong>in</strong>g, mounta<strong>in</strong> bik<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong><br />
beachvolley. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Spa & Beauty<br />
Filomena Spa & Lifestyle Club F-3, Put Radoševca<br />
39, tel. (+385-21) 47 27 77, <strong>in</strong>fo@filomena.hr, www.<br />
filomena.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.<br />
PAFGW<br />
Mira Salon & Day Spa Gosp<strong>in</strong>ica 14, tel. (+385-21)<br />
38 98 16, <strong>in</strong>fo@miradayspa.com, www.miradayspa.<br />
com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2011<br />
39
40 shoppiNg<br />
Shopp<strong>in</strong>g centres & Malls<br />
City Center One F-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 51 01 30, <strong>in</strong>fo-st@citycenterone.com, www.<br />
citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Joker Centre D-2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39<br />
69 11. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Antiques<br />
Antique‘s & Art‘s D-3, Pl<strong>in</strong>arska 21, tel. (+385-) 098<br />
917 63 68. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. N<br />
Zlatna vrata J-2, Papalićeva ulica 4, tel. (+385-21) 36<br />
01 22/(+385-) 098 51 62 78. Q Open 09:00 - 12:30,<br />
17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. N<br />
Art Galleries<br />
Botteri J-1, Kliška 15, tel. (+385-21) 34 81 88, www.<br />
botteri.net. Q Open 09:00 - 12:30, 16:30 - 20:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.<br />
Galerija Freska H-1, Pl<strong>in</strong>arska 49, tel. (+385-21) 39 49<br />
18, im<strong>and</strong>aria@yahoo.com, www.galerija-freska.com.<br />
Q Open 09:00 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Jaman I-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/(+385-)<br />
098 32 27 19, danijel.jaman@st.t-com.hr, www.jamanart.com.<br />
Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00<br />
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Morić J-1, S<strong>in</strong>jska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51 31/(+385-)<br />
091 515 73 57, galerija-moric@st.t-com.hr. Q Open<br />
08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Studio Naranča J-2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 34 41 18, pavo.studionaranca@gmail.com. Local<br />
graphic artist Pavo Majić <strong>and</strong> his wife have been at it for<br />
years - exhibit<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> sell<strong>in</strong>g their artwork, host<strong>in</strong>g exhibits<br />
by Croatian <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational artists <strong>and</strong> participat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the<br />
local art scene. Stop by their small, but impressive, gallery <strong>and</strong><br />
show them some love QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.<br />
July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Kravata - Necktie<br />
For any of you that are th<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g about f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g the slightest<br />
h<strong>in</strong>t of irony <strong>in</strong> the idea that an item of cloth<strong>in</strong>g that almost<br />
s<strong>in</strong>gle-h<strong>and</strong>edly represents an uptight, constricted<br />
lifestyle should come from passionate Mediterranean<br />
climes, remember one th<strong>in</strong>g – the Croats are k<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>and</strong><br />
queens of fashion! ‘Twas way back <strong>in</strong> 1635, amongst<br />
the large numbers of soldiers roll<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to Paris to fight<br />
aga<strong>in</strong>st the nasty protestants <strong>in</strong> The Thirty Years War<br />
were Croatian mercenaries from the coastal regions.<br />
They wore coloured scarves around their necks, which<br />
the French military thought a wonderful idea. They were<br />
so much easier to keep clean than the lace frills that were<br />
the norm <strong>in</strong> Gaul. Hence the new fashion was taken up<br />
with enthusiasm <strong>and</strong> rapidly spread to the rest of Europe<br />
– the word for the orig<strong>in</strong>al wearers: Hrvat transform<strong>in</strong>g on<br />
the non-Slavic tongue to Cravat. For those of you that do<br />
not want to carry around a pa<strong>in</strong>ful rem<strong>in</strong>der of that which<br />
awaits at the end of your holidays, they make them <strong>in</strong> nice<br />
bright styles also.<br />
Split<br />
telephone code is +385-21<br />
Vegeta - Food Season<strong>in</strong>g<br />
This is basically a food season<strong>in</strong>g. It is made from<br />
vegetables, spices <strong>and</strong> salt <strong>and</strong> therefore has the added<br />
bonus of be<strong>in</strong>g vegetarian – oh you healthy beast! And<br />
don’t worry; MSG is <strong>in</strong> everyth<strong>in</strong>g these days anyway,<br />
as it is <strong>in</strong> this Croatian stuff <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>deed most of Central<br />
Europe. Remember how we raved about the st<strong>and</strong>ard<br />
of the food <strong>in</strong> this country? Well, now you have jo<strong>in</strong>ed<br />
us <strong>in</strong> this appreciation we can reveal the secret to you –<br />
<strong>and</strong> that secret is Vegeta. When you f<strong>in</strong>d that your pasta<br />
dish is unreasonably rich <strong>and</strong> salty – well then you know<br />
that the commis chef is <strong>in</strong> need of extra tra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g for his<br />
Vegeta shake.<br />
English books & newspapers<br />
Algoritam I-2, Bajamontijeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 80<br />
30, split@algoritam.hr, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. A<br />
Profil Superstore I-2, Šubićeva 7, tel. (+385-21) 33<br />
26 75/(+385-21) 33 26 74, www.profil-<strong>in</strong>ternational.<br />
hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. A<br />
VBZ I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 80, www.<br />
vbz.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Delicatessen<br />
Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 31 48 00, edicoposao@yahoo.com, www.<br />
v<strong>in</strong>oteka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Judita - gourmet & w<strong>in</strong>e shop J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 21 02 50, <strong>in</strong>fo@stella-croatica.hr, www.<br />
stella-croatica.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. A<br />
Kraš I-2, Narodni trg 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 61 38, www.<br />
kras.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Nadal<strong>in</strong>a J-2, Dioklecijanova 6. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Natura I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 24.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Oleoteka Uje J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27<br />
19, <strong>in</strong>fo@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 17:00. July 15 - August 15 Open 09:00 - 23:00. A<br />
Split Tea House I-2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21)<br />
33 23 58, <strong>in</strong>fo@kucacaja-split.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30,<br />
Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A<br />
V<strong>in</strong>oteka Bouquet C-3, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 34 80 31, www.v<strong>in</strong>oteka.hr. Q Open 08:30 -<br />
12:30, 17:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
V<strong>in</strong>oteka Viola D-3/K-3, Bijank<strong>in</strong>ijeva 8, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 32 30 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Souvenirs<br />
Cro fan shop - Hajduk I-2, Trogirska 10, tel. (+385-21)<br />
34 30 96, www.cro-fan-shop.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A<br />
Spalato J-2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. (+385-21) 49 09<br />
30/(+385-) 091 456 95 45, lidija.hodzic2@gmail.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Th<strong>in</strong>k P<strong>in</strong>k I-2, Kružićeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 61,<br />
senka.jurisic@gmail.com. Also at (D-3) Zadarska 8. Open<br />
09:00 - 23:00. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com
42 diRectoRy<br />
Banks & Exchanges<br />
Hypo Alpe Adria Bank E/F-3, Poljička cesta 39, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 43 98 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Podravska banka D-2, Ulica slobode 33, tel. (+385-)<br />
062 65 56 30/(+385-) 060 20 20 20, kc-split@poba.hr,<br />
www.poba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Privredna banka D-2, Ulica slobode 7, tel. (+385-21)<br />
42 10 07/(+385-) 0800 36 53 65, www.pbz.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Splitska banka - Societe Generale Group F-3,<br />
Ruđera Boškovića 16, tel. (+385-21) 30 43 42/(+385-)<br />
0800 21 00 21, www.splitskabanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Zagrebačka banka D-2, Gundulićeva 26/A, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 35 23 06/(+385-21) 35 22 22, www.zaba.hr.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Bus<strong>in</strong>ess connections<br />
Croatian Chamber of Economy - Split Chamber<br />
(Županijska komora Split) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 4,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 32 11 00, hgkst@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr.<br />
QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Croatian Chamber of trades <strong>and</strong> crafts - Split<br />
Dalmatia County (Obrtnička komora Splitskodalmat<strong>in</strong>ske<br />
županije) F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 28-30,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 47 01 14, ok.split@hok.hr, www.hok.hr.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Foreign representations<br />
Chile (Consulate) E-1, Boktulj<strong>in</strong> put bb, tel. (+385-21)<br />
35 24 01, fax (+385-21) 36 71 18, jbuljubasic@sem.hr.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Denmark (Consulate) B-3, Supilova 10, tel. (+385-21)<br />
35 84 88/(+385-) 091 358 48 88, nenad.muskatelo1@st.tcom.hr.<br />
Please make an appo<strong>in</strong>tment before visit<strong>in</strong>g. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
F<strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong> (Consulate) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel. (+385-)<br />
091 339 12 12, fax (+385-21) 34 52 75, milan.senjanovic@<br />
vip.hr, www.f<strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong>.hr. Please arrange an appo<strong>in</strong>tment.<br />
Germany (Consulate) I-1, Svačićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 40<br />
93 47, fax (+385-21) 48 64 01, split@hk-diplo.de, www.<br />
zagreb.diplo.de. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Hungary (Consulate) D-2, Gundulićeva 26A, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 48 00 19/(+385-21) 38 02 03, hungconsulate.st@<br />
email.t-com.hr, www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/zagreb. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Italy (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog<br />
preporoda 10/III, tel. (+385-21) 34 81 55/(+385-21) 34<br />
45 77, fax (+385-21) 36 12 68, consolato.spalato@esteri.<br />
it, www.consspalato.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, Thu<br />
09:00 - 12:00, 15:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Slovenia (Consulate) D-2, Istarska 9, tel. (+385-21)<br />
38 92 24, fax (+385-21) 38 92 23, generalni.konzulat.<br />
rep.slovenije@st.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:30 - 12:30. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Sweden (Consulate) K-1/2, Držićeva 8, tel. (+385-21)<br />
33 82 34, fax (+385-21) 31 45 30. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
The Netherl<strong>and</strong>s (Consulate) D-2, Mažuranićevo<br />
šetalište 1, tel./fax (+385-21) 31 23 99, silvanakondic@<br />
net.hr, www.netherl<strong>and</strong>sembassy.hr. For the rest of the<br />
week by prior arrangement over the phone. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.<br />
www.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
UK (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog<br />
preporoda 10/III, tel. (+385-21) 34 60 07, fax (+385-<br />
21) 36 29 05, british-consulat-st@st.t-com.hr, www.<br />
uk<strong>in</strong>croatia.fco.gov.uk. Q Open 07:30 - 15:30, Fri<br />
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Real estate<br />
Benelli nekretn<strong>in</strong>e D-2/E-2, Dubrovačka 3a, tel.<br />
(+385-21) 53 68 23/(+385-) 099 200 01 15, <strong>in</strong>fo@<br />
benelliestates.com, www.benelliestates.com. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Consiliator nekretn<strong>in</strong>e J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 10,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 36 02 60/(+385-) 091 198 03 03,<br />
consiliator@consiliator.hr, www.consiliator.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Trgostan J-2/K-1, Tolstojeva 32, tel. (+385-21) 34<br />
31 05, 36 21 40/(+385-) 091 201 71 60, 098 89 17<br />
69, trgostan@trgostan.hr, www.trgostan.hr. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Translators & Interpretors<br />
L<strong>in</strong>gua-Soft D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 9, tel. (+385-<br />
21) 48 74 44, ls-split@l<strong>in</strong>gua-soft.hr, www.l<strong>in</strong>gua-soft.<br />
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Hospital<br />
Bolnica Križ<strong>in</strong>e F-3, Šoltanska 1, tel. (+385-21) 55<br />
71 11.<br />
Kl<strong>in</strong>ički Bolnički Centar (Firule) E-3, Sp<strong>in</strong>čićeva 1,<br />
tel. (+385-21) 55 61 11.<br />
Dry cleaners & Laundries<br />
Self Service Laundrette H-2, Šperun 1, tel. (+385-21)<br />
31 58 88. Self service: 25kn - launder<strong>in</strong>g, 20kn - dry<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong><br />
5kn - wash<strong>in</strong>g powder. 75kn per mach<strong>in</strong>e for leav<strong>in</strong>g your<br />
clothes for them to do the job for you (wash<strong>in</strong>g, dry<strong>in</strong>g but<br />
not iron<strong>in</strong>g). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
24-hour pharmacies<br />
Lučac E-3, Pupačićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 53 31 88,<br />
ljekarnasplit@ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Prima Pharme G-2, Kralja Stjepana Držislava 22<br />
(Super Konzum), tel. (+385-21) 32 55 04, s<strong>in</strong>e@<br />
primapharme.hr, www.primapharme.hr. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Castles of Split Dalmatia County<br />
Visitors to the Split region shouldn‘t just restrict themselves<br />
to the beach. Not only is the Dalmatian h<strong>in</strong>terl<strong>and</strong> one of the<br />
most dramatically beautiful parts of Croatia, it also plays host<br />
to a multitude of crumbl<strong>in</strong>g fortresses <strong>and</strong> hilltop castles.<br />
Given the region‘s turbulent history - <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g centuries of<br />
warfare between Croats, Ottoman Turks <strong>and</strong> Venetians - it‘s<br />
no surprise that brood<strong>in</strong>g battle-scarred ru<strong>in</strong>s form such a<br />
prom<strong>in</strong>ent part of the local l<strong>and</strong>scape.<br />
One of the largest, most spectacular <strong>and</strong> yet easily<br />
accessible fortresses <strong>in</strong> the county is Klis, planted<br />
precariously on sheer cliffs just <strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong> from Split. There‘s an<br />
excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects<br />
Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored <strong>and</strong> now an<br />
outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the<br />
road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress<br />
<strong>and</strong> soak <strong>in</strong> the great views <strong>in</strong> every direction.There is a café<br />
right below the fortress.<br />
Klis has had a long <strong>and</strong> colorful history. It was first<br />
mentioned <strong>in</strong> written records <strong>in</strong> the first half of the 10th<br />
century. In the 13th century the Mongols <strong>in</strong>vaded the area<br />
but never succeed<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> tak<strong>in</strong>g the fortress.The Ottoman<br />
Turks captured it <strong>in</strong> 1537. Local nobles succeeded <strong>in</strong> retak<strong>in</strong>g<br />
Klis, but only for a few weeks, <strong>in</strong> 1596. The Venetians f<strong>in</strong>ally<br />
evicted the Turks for good <strong>in</strong> 1648. When you visit Klis you<br />
will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupy<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow<br />
mounta<strong>in</strong> pass from the coast to the h<strong>in</strong>terl<strong>and</strong>.<br />
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split dalmatia couNty<br />
Between Split <strong>and</strong> Trogir, 20km to the west, lies a sequence<br />
of seven small towns known collectively as “Kaštela“<br />
(Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive<br />
along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs<br />
direct<strong>in</strong>g you to them (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Sućurac,<br />
Kaštel Kambelovac, etc.). Most were constructed <strong>in</strong> the<br />
16th century to provide shelter from maraud<strong>in</strong>g pirates or<br />
the Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out<br />
their <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g architectural features. All are accessible by<br />
car. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Trogir, an isl<strong>and</strong><br />
town, has its own castle fortress, too, right on the waterfront.<br />
Kamerlengo Citadel was built <strong>in</strong> the 15th century <strong>and</strong> has<br />
been well restored. Trogir‘s Venetian heritage (the Venetians<br />
held sway there for three <strong>and</strong> a half centuries start<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />
1420) is clearly evident from the town‘s lovely architecture.<br />
If you go 21km <strong>in</strong> the opposite direction (southwest) on route<br />
8 from Split you will reach Omiš, which is located at the<br />
mouth of the Cet<strong>in</strong>a River. There are the ru<strong>in</strong>s of two castle/<br />
fortresses above the town that have spectacular views.The<br />
lower of the two, Mirabela, is accessible by about 300 steps<br />
from Šubić Street <strong>in</strong> the centre of town. There is a gate about<br />
a quarter of the way up that is sometimes <strong>in</strong>explicably locked.<br />
Ask at the town‘s tourist office first <strong>and</strong> they‘ll probably send<br />
someone to unlock it. From the top of Mirabela‘s tower keep<br />
there‘s a sweep<strong>in</strong>g view of Omiš, the river, the sea, <strong>and</strong> the<br />
steep sided mounta<strong>in</strong>s that form the sides of the canyon. It‘s<br />
believed that the Kačić family, feudal lords of Omiš dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
12th <strong>and</strong> 13th centuries, built Mirabela <strong>in</strong> the early 1200s.<br />
Pirates used Mirabela as their lair dur<strong>in</strong>g medieval times. The<br />
Venetians acquired Omiš <strong>in</strong> 1444 <strong>and</strong> over time exp<strong>and</strong>ed<br />
<strong>and</strong> refortified the redoubt.<br />
Fitness buffs can be rewarded with an even more panoramic<br />
view by hik<strong>in</strong>g from the center of Omiš to Starigrad (also<br />
called “Fortica”), a fortress/castle about 500m above the<br />
town. The hike takes about two hours on a marked trail,<br />
which beg<strong>in</strong>s on the road to the village of Borak. The turn off<br />
to Borak is on the south edge of the Omiš town center. You<br />
can also drive part of the way up to Starigrad, mak<strong>in</strong>g sure<br />
to go straight (don‘t turn right) when you reach the fork <strong>in</strong> the<br />
road. From that po<strong>in</strong>t it is a 45 m<strong>in</strong>utes climb. Fortica was<br />
built by another Croatian noble family, the Nelipićs, probably<br />
<strong>in</strong> the 14th century. It was one of a series of coastal forts<br />
exp<strong>and</strong>ed by the Venetians dur<strong>in</strong>g their centuries-long<br />
struggle aga<strong>in</strong>st the Turks. Gun bastions <strong>and</strong> embrasures<br />
are still clearly visible <strong>in</strong> the walls, the perfect spot for<br />
imag<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g that you are a defender on the battlements! There<br />
are plenty of good hotels <strong>and</strong> eateries <strong>in</strong> Omiš, which is a<br />
major tourist center. It‘s a shame that most visitors never<br />
venture beyond the beach.<br />
Summer 2011<br />
43
From Omiš take the road on the south side of the Cet<strong>in</strong>a<br />
River 18km to reach Zadvarje. There is one good view after<br />
another as this road w<strong>in</strong>ds through the canyon. There is a<br />
fortress with the same name just beyond the water treatment<br />
plant above Zadvarje. Unfortuately power l<strong>in</strong>es above the ru<strong>in</strong><br />
somewhat mar the atmosphere, but it‘s still worth check<strong>in</strong>g<br />
out Zadvarje‘s massive walls. Built by the Venetians between<br />
1478 <strong>and</strong> 1482, Zadvarje was captured <strong>and</strong> refortified by<br />
the Turks <strong>in</strong> 1502. There is a myth that the ghost of Murat,<br />
the Zadvarje Turkish bey who was bloodied by a local girl he<br />
assaulted, roams the castle walls dur<strong>in</strong>g full moon.<br />
Our next stop on the county castle tour is Imotski, 38km<br />
from Zadvarje by routes 39 <strong>and</strong> 60. Imotski is remote <strong>in</strong>to the<br />
Dalmatian h<strong>in</strong>terl<strong>and</strong>, a place where locals th<strong>in</strong>k noth<strong>in</strong>g of<br />
stopp<strong>in</strong>g their car <strong>in</strong> the middle of street <strong>in</strong> town to chat with<br />
their friends, not worry<strong>in</strong>g about a trifl<strong>in</strong>g traffic jam that might<br />
develop. Another dist<strong>in</strong>ctive feature of this hilltop town is its<br />
two s<strong>in</strong>khole lakes, the Blue Lake <strong>and</strong> the Red Lake. Sheer<br />
cliffs tower 150m above the Blue Lake, which is just above<br />
the Imotski town center. It takes about 10 m<strong>in</strong>utes to climb<br />
up the stone steps to Topana Castle, perched at the top of<br />
the cliffs.There is a great view of the coastal mounta<strong>in</strong>s from<br />
the ramparts of the castle, the location of which was probably<br />
first used for defensive purposes by the Romans.<br />
Topana is first mentioned <strong>in</strong> written records around 950.<br />
From 1322 the castle fortress was under the ownership of<br />
several Croatian-Bosnian noble families.The Turks conquered<br />
Imotski <strong>in</strong> 1493, transform<strong>in</strong>g it <strong>in</strong>to an important seat of<br />
local government <strong>and</strong> refortify<strong>in</strong>g the castle. It wasn‘t until<br />
1717 that the Venetians pushed the Turks out, but Imotski<br />
cont<strong>in</strong>ued to mark the border with the Ottoman Turkish<br />
Empire. Battles cont<strong>in</strong>ued for another decade, result<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />
substantial damage to the castle. It was reconstructed <strong>in</strong><br />
the early 19th century, by which time it no longer served a<br />
military purpose. There are several hotels <strong>and</strong> restaurants<br />
<strong>in</strong> Imotski.<br />
On the way from Zadvarje bonafide castle fanatics might want<br />
to follow highway 62 to the hilltop town of Vrgorac, which is<br />
very near to the border with Bosnia-Herzegov<strong>in</strong>a. There is<br />
a nicely restored castle above the town centre, accessible<br />
via an unusually well marked trail <strong>in</strong> about 15 - 20 m<strong>in</strong>utes.<br />
There‘s a wonderful view <strong>in</strong> every direction from the castle.<br />
Only 10km north <strong>and</strong> west of Imotski on a secondary (but<br />
paved) road is the village of Donji Proložac. Badnjevice<br />
Castle/fortress is spectacularly situated on a rocky peak<br />
above the village. First mentioned <strong>in</strong> written records from<br />
the 12th century, it‘s hard to imag<strong>in</strong>e how it could have<br />
been built there, but it certa<strong>in</strong>ly comm<strong>and</strong>s a good view of<br />
the surround<strong>in</strong>g region. Only the hardiest of climbers should<br />
attempt to reach this ru<strong>in</strong>. There are no marked trails, <strong>and</strong><br />
probably the best alternative would be to enlist the help of<br />
a local to guide you up the steep, rocky slope.<br />
About 80km north <strong>and</strong> west from Imotski via route 60 <strong>and</strong><br />
then a turn off from route 220 is the small village of Čačv<strong>in</strong>a.<br />
It‘s easy to spot the castle ru<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> a church at the top of a<br />
hill above the village. It‘s an easy, 10 m<strong>in</strong>utes ascent to the<br />
castle. There are spectacular views <strong>in</strong> every direction from<br />
Čačv<strong>in</strong>a, which sits at an elevation of 707m. The Nelipčić<br />
family built Čačv<strong>in</strong>a <strong>in</strong> 1371.<br />
The Turks overan this fortress <strong>in</strong> the mid 16th century, <strong>and</strong><br />
it was not until about 150 years later that the Venetians<br />
<strong>and</strong> Croats evicted them. In ancient <strong>and</strong> medieval times<br />
Čačv<strong>in</strong>a sat at the crossroads of major trad<strong>in</strong>g routes, but<br />
today it is very much off the beaten track. Visitors may not<br />
be able to get an espresso there, but Čačv<strong>in</strong>a‘s remoteness<br />
is one of its charms.<br />
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split dalmatia couNty<br />
The largest town of the Split Dalmatia County h<strong>in</strong>terl<strong>and</strong><br />
is S<strong>in</strong>j, which is only 20km northwest of Čačv<strong>in</strong>a or 34km<br />
north of Split via a well marked road. The castle fortress<br />
above S<strong>in</strong>j is worth a look. You can drive there. Like the rest<br />
of Dalmatia, S<strong>in</strong>j has had a very turbulent history. Dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the century before <strong>and</strong> for several centuries after the birth<br />
of Christ the Romans fought with several tribes <strong>in</strong> the area.<br />
S<strong>in</strong>j‘s fortifications are first found <strong>in</strong> written records <strong>in</strong> about<br />
the year 950. It‘s believed the exsit<strong>in</strong>g fortress was built<br />
<strong>in</strong> the 14th century. The Turks captured S<strong>in</strong>j <strong>in</strong> 1536 <strong>and</strong><br />
refortified the castle. The Venetians pushed the Turks out <strong>in</strong><br />
1686, <strong>and</strong> the follow<strong>in</strong>g year a famous image of the Madonna<br />
known as the Lady of S<strong>in</strong>j (“S<strong>in</strong>jska Gospa”) was returned<br />
to S<strong>in</strong>j. In August 1715 the Turks attempted to retake the<br />
S<strong>in</strong>j fortress. Although outnumbered, the <strong>in</strong>habitants of S<strong>in</strong>j<br />
defeated the Turks after a week-long battle. The defendents<br />
were conv<strong>in</strong>ced that the presence of the Madonna pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g<br />
help them to thwart their more powerful adversaries. The<br />
Feast of the Assumption (Velika Gospa; August 15) is,<br />
therefore, especially significant for the residents of S<strong>in</strong>j,<br />
which has several hotels <strong>and</strong> many restaurants.<br />
About 15km northwest of S<strong>in</strong>j lies the village <strong>and</strong> fortress<br />
of Potravlje (also known as “Potravnik” or “Travnik”). It<br />
comm<strong>and</strong>s a stupendous view of coastal mounta<strong>in</strong>s to the<br />
west, high peaks <strong>in</strong> Bosnia <strong>and</strong> the valley occupied by 30km<br />
long Lake Peručko to the north. To reach Potravlje you take<br />
Route 1 north from S<strong>in</strong>j. After about 10km you turn west<br />
(left) on a paved road; there is a sign po<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g the way to<br />
Satrić. After 5.3km you will see a p<strong>in</strong>k house on the right<br />
<strong>and</strong> on the left a l<strong>in</strong>e of cypress trees. Turn left at that po<strong>in</strong>t<br />
<strong>and</strong> go about 500m, where you can park <strong>in</strong> the middle of the<br />
village <strong>and</strong> walk up the hill to the castle ru<strong>in</strong>s. There is no<br />
discernable trail but it is not too difficult to bushwack through<br />
the low scrub brush <strong>and</strong> grass. Like Čačv<strong>in</strong>a, Potravlje is a<br />
rustic but lovely spot.<br />
Potravnik was probably constructed by the Nelipčić dukes<br />
<strong>in</strong> the 14th century. It is first mentioned <strong>in</strong> written records<br />
<strong>in</strong> 1372. The Turks attacked the fortress <strong>in</strong> 1522 <strong>and</strong> at<br />
first were not successful <strong>in</strong> tak<strong>in</strong>g it. Only after plugg<strong>in</strong>g<br />
the sources for the castle‘s water wells, thereby cutt<strong>in</strong>g<br />
off the defendents‘ water supply, were they able to capture<br />
it. The Venetians pushed the Turks out <strong>in</strong> the late 17th<br />
century. Another 22km along route 1 is the town of Vrlika.<br />
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Prozor castle sits prom<strong>in</strong>ently above the town, which is at<br />
the opposite end of Lake Peručko from Potravlje. Partially<br />
restored, Prozor has an equally spectacular view of the lake<br />
<strong>and</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>s to the east <strong>and</strong> west. To reach the castle go<br />
from the town church 1.5km up the road towards Maovica <strong>and</strong><br />
Drniš. There is a dirt road passable with four wheel drive or a<br />
20 - 25 m<strong>in</strong>ute walk up a not very steep hill to the castle.<br />
The Hrvat<strong>in</strong>ić family built Prozor Castle <strong>in</strong> the early 1400s. As<br />
with other towns <strong>in</strong> the this area, the Ottoman Turks captured<br />
the fortress <strong>in</strong> 1523 <strong>and</strong> held it until the Venetians expelled<br />
them nearly 200 years later. The town witnessed an <strong>in</strong>vasion<br />
much more recently as well. Dur<strong>in</strong>g the Balkan Wars of the<br />
early 1990s Vrlika was held by the so-called Republic of Serb<br />
Kraj<strong>in</strong>a for four years. Dur<strong>in</strong>g Operation Storm the Croatian<br />
Army pushed the Serbs out <strong>in</strong> August 1995.<br />
The large Adriatic isl<strong>and</strong>s of Brač, Hvar <strong>and</strong> Vis also lie with<strong>in</strong><br />
Split Dalmatia County, <strong>and</strong> there is no shortage of allur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
castles <strong>in</strong> those places, either. A restored fortress overlooks<br />
Hvar Town <strong>and</strong> provides a nice view of the offshore str<strong>in</strong>g of<br />
Pakleni <strong>Isl<strong>and</strong>s</strong>. You can drive up to the fortress or climb up <strong>in</strong><br />
a few m<strong>in</strong>utes from the town center. There is an <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g<br />
tower made of gigantic stone blocks (shown as “Tor” on<br />
some maps) above the town of Jelsa. One marvels about<br />
how those huge blocks could have been raised to such a<br />
height <strong>and</strong> po<strong>in</strong>ted so neatly so many centuries ago. The<br />
tower is accessible <strong>in</strong> about 20 - 30 m<strong>in</strong>utes via a marked<br />
trail ascend<strong>in</strong>g from a dirt road that runs from the village<br />
of Humac (on route 116) to the tunnel entrance. From the<br />
tower there is a breathtak<strong>in</strong>g view of Brač Isl<strong>and</strong> to the<br />
north. A fortress on the same ridge about a kilometre to<br />
the east also is clearly visible. If you have b<strong>in</strong>oculars you<br />
may be able to spot the naturist beaches on Jerolim <strong>and</strong><br />
Stipanska isl<strong>and</strong>s off the coast. Brač, too, has a number<br />
of castles <strong>and</strong> fortresses <strong>in</strong> its coastal villages <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>terior.<br />
For details please see the article about Brač activities <strong>in</strong> this<br />
issue of In Your Pocket.<br />
<strong>Isl<strong>and</strong>s</strong><br />
Šolta<br />
Small enough to be qua<strong>in</strong>t <strong>and</strong> cozy but large enough to<br />
have extras like a disco or two, swimm<strong>in</strong>g pools <strong>and</strong> tennis<br />
courts, Šolta is located about n<strong>in</strong>eteen nautical miles from<br />
Split, just west of Brač. The isl<strong>and</strong> is another of those special<br />
places <strong>in</strong> Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life<br />
has been largely ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong>ed to the present day. This means<br />
that the pr<strong>in</strong>cipal <strong>in</strong>dustry on the isl<strong>and</strong> is fish<strong>in</strong>g, donkeys<br />
are still a viable form of transportation <strong>and</strong> the locals <strong>in</strong> the<br />
eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually<br />
k<strong>in</strong>d, <strong>in</strong>vit<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> warm. It also means that the pace of life<br />
is markedly slower than <strong>in</strong> other places <strong>in</strong> Dalmatia, which<br />
is quite a feat <strong>in</strong> itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal<br />
environment <strong>in</strong> which to enjoy the benefits of the isl<strong>and</strong>,<br />
not the least of which is the ma<strong>in</strong> product of the isl<strong>and</strong>, fish.<br />
The isl<strong>and</strong>‘s fisherman can be seen leav<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the morn<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>and</strong> return<strong>in</strong>g with the day‘s catch, which is then prepared<br />
for the even<strong>in</strong>g‘s meal <strong>and</strong> accompanied by some excellent<br />
homemade w<strong>in</strong>e, both of which will be on h<strong>and</strong> for you to<br />
sample <strong>in</strong> abundance. As we know, however, man does<br />
not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little<br />
adventure from time to time <strong>and</strong> Šolta has that to offer, as<br />
well. The tranquil coves <strong>and</strong> beaches around the isl<strong>and</strong> play<br />
perfect host to swimm<strong>in</strong>g, sunbath<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> even w<strong>in</strong>dsurf<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
<strong>and</strong> the isl<strong>and</strong> itself is perfect for hik<strong>in</strong>g through the olive<br />
groves <strong>and</strong> v<strong>in</strong>eyards that supply the isl<strong>and</strong>‘s other pr<strong>in</strong>cipal<br />
products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature<br />
<strong>and</strong> local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a<br />
short stay. Either way, there‘s someth<strong>in</strong>g for everyone.<br />
Brač<br />
Brač, the Croatian Adriatic‘s third largest isl<strong>and</strong>, offers<br />
spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mounta<strong>in</strong><br />
of any Croatian isl<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> despite its proximity to Split,<br />
reta<strong>in</strong>s a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town,<br />
Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrol<strong>in</strong>ija<br />
car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumart<strong>in</strong> on<br />
the southeast tip of the isl<strong>and</strong>, or from Split to Supetar, which<br />
is on the northwest.<br />
If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia‘s most<br />
famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It‘s a po<strong>in</strong>t jutt<strong>in</strong>g<br />
out <strong>in</strong>to the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the<br />
Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
summer, especially with younger people. It‘s also a popular<br />
spot for w<strong>in</strong>dsurf<strong>in</strong>g. If you‘d prefer a less frenetic bath<strong>in</strong>g<br />
experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenč<strong>in</strong>a Bay,<br />
which is 4 km east of Postira, <strong>in</strong> the middle of Brač‘s north<br />
side. There are great views of the ma<strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong>s from<br />
there as well as the ru<strong>in</strong>s of a medieval basilica just above the<br />
beach. If you prefer sightsee<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>stead of hitt<strong>in</strong>g the beach,<br />
you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located<br />
on a plateau almost <strong>in</strong> the middle of Brač.<br />
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Škrip is unique <strong>in</strong> that structures spann<strong>in</strong>g two millenia<br />
are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture<br />
<strong>and</strong> mausoleum; medieval castles; <strong>and</strong> churches from the<br />
Middle Ages. Škrip‘s Museum of Brač conta<strong>in</strong>s many<br />
ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g<br />
a relief of Hercules.<br />
Assum<strong>in</strong>g your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you<br />
could extend your activities from what‘s listed above to the<br />
follow<strong>in</strong>g. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dom<strong>in</strong>ican<br />
monastery (Dom<strong>in</strong>ikanski samostan) <strong>in</strong> Bol. Its museum<br />
has a collection of ancient Greek <strong>and</strong> Cretan artifacts as well<br />
as a T<strong>in</strong>toretto pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g of the Madonna <strong>and</strong> Child dat<strong>in</strong>g<br />
from 1563. An even more <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g monastery to visit,<br />
especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca<br />
(Pust<strong>in</strong>ja Blaca), founded <strong>in</strong> 1588 by monks flee<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about<br />
half way between the sea <strong>and</strong> the summit of Brač‘s highest<br />
peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca <strong>in</strong>deed is a perfect place to hide.<br />
You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that beg<strong>in</strong>s<br />
near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down<br />
from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank<br />
of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that<br />
track, which beg<strong>in</strong>s 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on<br />
the Supetar to Bol road. If you don‘t have an SUV you run the<br />
risk of ru<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g your vehicle‘s suspension. Both trails are well<br />
marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours<br />
for the round trip hike <strong>and</strong> br<strong>in</strong>g plenty of water. You will be<br />
rewarded with great views plus Blaca‘s ascetic architecture<br />
<strong>and</strong> splendid isolation.<br />
Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of<br />
Vidova Gora, the highest mounta<strong>in</strong> of any Adriatic isl<strong>and</strong>,<br />
2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive<br />
there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off<br />
on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća.<br />
The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba div<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>and</strong> snorkel<strong>in</strong>g, there are dive centers <strong>in</strong> Supetar <strong>and</strong> Bol<br />
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split dalmatia couNty<br />
that rent equipment <strong>and</strong> organize dive cruises. It‘s easy to<br />
spend a day or more enjoy<strong>in</strong>g the warm, clear waters of the<br />
Croatian Adriatic.<br />
If you are go<strong>in</strong>g to be on Brač for a week there‘s much<br />
more you can do. L<strong>and</strong> lubbers <strong>and</strong> aquatic types alike<br />
can spend several pleasant days explor<strong>in</strong>g the attractive<br />
coastal villages of Brač. Just try<strong>in</strong>g to pronounce their<br />
names should prove <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g. These <strong>in</strong>clude Sutivan,<br />
Bobovišća, Ložišća <strong>and</strong> Milna on the east side of the<br />
isl<strong>and</strong>; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća <strong>and</strong> Povlja on the north<br />
side; <strong>and</strong> Selca <strong>and</strong> Sumart<strong>in</strong> on the east. All of them have<br />
a medieval atmosphere <strong>in</strong> their old quarters, with narrow,<br />
cobblestone alleys w<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g up from the seafront; nearly all<br />
stone build<strong>in</strong>gs with green shutters; medieval fortress towers<br />
built for defense aga<strong>in</strong>st pirates <strong>and</strong> the Turks; <strong>and</strong> centuries<br />
old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, <strong>and</strong> there<br />
are plenty of outdoor cafes <strong>and</strong> restaurants from which to<br />
soak them up. Olive tree orchards <strong>and</strong> wild olive trees cover<br />
a significant portion of Brač, <strong>and</strong> there are many small-scale<br />
olive oil producers. You will see lots of signs advertis<strong>in</strong>g fresh,<br />
extra virg<strong>in</strong> olive oil (ekstra djevičansko masl<strong>in</strong>ovo ulje) for<br />
sale. There are even agro-tourism offers for olive pick<strong>in</strong>g;<br />
check with a travel bureau about where that is possible.<br />
Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It‘s<br />
claimed that Brač marble was even used <strong>in</strong> the construction<br />
of the American White House. And of course, it was used<br />
<strong>in</strong> the build<strong>in</strong>g of many local houses. You will see several<br />
quarries as you drive about the isl<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> they are<br />
accessible - a tort lawyer‘s dream.<br />
There are two caves worth explor<strong>in</strong>g on Brač: Zmajeva<br />
(Dragon) <strong>and</strong> Kopač<strong>in</strong>a. They‘re located between Supetar<br />
<strong>and</strong> Donji Humac.<br />
Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you<br />
wouldn‘t suffer for lack of th<strong>in</strong>gs to do. You could spend<br />
many more days just driv<strong>in</strong>g around or relax<strong>in</strong>g on the beach,<br />
soak<strong>in</strong>g up the scenery.<br />
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Hvar<br />
You can reach Hvar by ferry (<strong>and</strong> your car too) from Split to<br />
Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to<br />
Jelsa <strong>and</strong> Hvar city. If you‘re a little south of Split, you can still<br />
reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry <strong>in</strong> Drvenik (just south of<br />
Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the isl<strong>and</strong> of Hvar.<br />
If you‘re com<strong>in</strong>g from the north, you can also get to Hvar along<br />
the coast with a l<strong>in</strong>e from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes<br />
a stop <strong>in</strong> Hvar city. See gett<strong>in</strong>g around section.<br />
Th<strong>in</strong>gs to see <strong>and</strong> do:<br />
Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful isl<strong>and</strong>s<br />
<strong>in</strong> the Adriatic. It extends out <strong>in</strong> an east-west direction <strong>and</strong><br />
on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of<br />
small islets <strong>and</strong> isl<strong>and</strong>s. Along its northern side there are<br />
only two isl<strong>and</strong>s, Zečevo <strong>and</strong> Duga.<br />
Amongst these isl<strong>and</strong>s, the most numerous are the Pakleni<br />
isl<strong>and</strong>s which are <strong>in</strong> the immediate vic<strong>in</strong>ity of Hvar city. Due<br />
to its dist<strong>in</strong>ctive vegetation, these isl<strong>and</strong>s l<strong>and</strong>scapes are<br />
protected.<br />
The Pakleni isl<strong>and</strong>s (Fiery <strong>Isl<strong>and</strong>s</strong>) got their <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g name<br />
from a little known fact...tar <strong>and</strong> res<strong>in</strong> used for coat<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western<br />
side of Hvar is the widest <strong>and</strong> mostly conta<strong>in</strong>s fields <strong>and</strong><br />
small towns.<br />
Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with<br />
medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) <strong>and</strong> Napoleon (built<br />
by the French <strong>in</strong> 1810) <strong>and</strong> their hilltop fortressed walls,<br />
located high above, atop St Nicholas, offer<strong>in</strong>g a splendid view<br />
of below. The prison dungeon <strong>in</strong>side the Španjol Fortress is<br />
quite impressive <strong>and</strong> if you take a peek below, it‘s easy to<br />
imag<strong>in</strong>e the sounds of the prison guards br<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g food to the<br />
prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the<br />
despair<strong>in</strong>g sounds of the the prisoners! Go<strong>in</strong>g around Hvar,<br />
yo u‘ l l e n c o u n te r<br />
historical charm with<br />
the Renaissance St<br />
Stephen‘s Cathedral<br />
(16-17th century)<br />
s t y l e d b y l o c a l<br />
masters Karlić <strong>and</strong><br />
Pomenić <strong>and</strong> the<br />
centre of the old part<br />
of town has a 15th<br />
century form. On the<br />
northern slope above<br />
the square are the<br />
partially preserved<br />
<strong>in</strong>ner city walls of the<br />
noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope <strong>in</strong> the cemetery<br />
is the former August<strong>in</strong>ian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule),<br />
dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of<br />
town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance<br />
summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner<br />
between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of<br />
Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary<br />
for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art<br />
collection, the most precious work be<strong>in</strong>g the Last Supper.<br />
Under the ma<strong>in</strong> altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar<br />
also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of<br />
civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331.<br />
Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar<br />
galley. On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from<br />
1612, one of the oldest <strong>in</strong> Europe which was commissioned<br />
by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedict<strong>in</strong>e monastery<br />
<strong>in</strong> Hvar is well known for it‘s craftsmanship of unique lace<br />
made from agave fibres.<br />
Hvar is by far the sunniest isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> the Adriatic <strong>and</strong> is one<br />
of the most beautiful isl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>in</strong> the world. The scent with<strong>in</strong><br />
Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender,<br />
Adriatic photo service<br />
heather <strong>and</strong> sage which offer a stunn<strong>in</strong>g visual <strong>and</strong> fragrant<br />
experience. The mounta<strong>in</strong>ous areas from Brusje to Hvar<br />
presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of<br />
lavender on the isl<strong>and</strong>. A longer stay on Hvar will give you<br />
the opportunity for a thorough exploration.<br />
Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on<br />
a route which passes alongside the isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> today‘s ferry<br />
port. The oldest town on the isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> one of the oldest <strong>in</strong><br />
Europe, it has been around s<strong>in</strong>ce 384-385 B.C. Located here<br />
is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović <strong>and</strong> the Early<br />
Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).<br />
Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first<br />
hotel was built <strong>in</strong> 1911 bounded by the two highest po<strong>in</strong>ts<br />
of the isl<strong>and</strong>; on the west St Nicholas <strong>and</strong> on the east, Hum.<br />
It came <strong>in</strong>to existence around the chapel of St John of the<br />
Fields which was formed around a square <strong>and</strong> its current<br />
look harks back to between the 17th <strong>and</strong> 19th centuries.<br />
The churches of St Fabian <strong>and</strong> Sebastian are also <strong>in</strong> Jelsa.<br />
If you set out on a journey <strong>in</strong>to the <strong>in</strong>terior of the isl<strong>and</strong><br />
not far from Jelsa, you‘ll come across the small villages of<br />
Pitve, Vrisnik <strong>and</strong> Svirće, which will bewitch you with their<br />
appearance <strong>and</strong> peacefulness.<br />
Only 7km east of Jelsa, you‘ll f<strong>in</strong>d the ab<strong>and</strong>oned village<br />
of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur <strong>and</strong><br />
stone <strong>and</strong> they‘re completely unique <strong>in</strong> their entirety of<br />
rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave,<br />
the most vital prehistoric f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>gs from the Neolithic era,<br />
5000-4000 B.C.<br />
Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden <strong>in</strong> the depth of<br />
the bay that conta<strong>in</strong>s a small islet <strong>in</strong> the centre. They call<br />
Vrboska ‚‘Little Venice‘‘ due to it‘s small bridges with which<br />
it is connected. There is also a Fish<strong>in</strong>g Museum which is<br />
worth a look <strong>in</strong> as is the fort church of St Mary of Charity<br />
from the 16th century. This fort church was built <strong>in</strong> defence<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
of the <strong>in</strong>vad<strong>in</strong>g Turks of the time. Hidden <strong>in</strong>side the Baroque<br />
church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure<br />
attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius,<br />
Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano,<br />
Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti <strong>and</strong> the<br />
filigree artist Benvenuto Cell<strong>in</strong>i.On the northern part of the<br />
isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Bas<strong>in</strong>a<br />
beach not far from Vrboska, <strong>and</strong> the beaches of Pokrivenik,<br />
Zaraća <strong>and</strong> Virak beside Gd<strong>in</strong>ja. To head to the southern<br />
side of the isl<strong>and</strong> you must pass through a natural tunnel<br />
(hollowed out of the rock) beside a place called Pitve on<br />
the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You‘ll come across a<br />
gorgeous view of the isl<strong>and</strong>s Šćedro, Korčula <strong>and</strong> the<br />
Pelješac pen<strong>in</strong>sula before exit<strong>in</strong>g the tunnel. Until recently<br />
the tunnel functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a<br />
call you‘d know if there was a car wait<strong>in</strong>g to enter from the<br />
other end but now there is a traffic light <strong>in</strong> place. The locals<br />
dug out the tunnel so they could get from one side of the<br />
isl<strong>and</strong> to the other. When you pass the tunnel you‘ll get to the<br />
southern side of the isl<strong>and</strong> which is beautiful <strong>and</strong> on which<br />
v<strong>in</strong>eyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali‘ (Small Blue)<br />
grape, located <strong>in</strong> Sveta Nedelja, Zavala. On this southern<br />
side of the isl<strong>and</strong> you can bathe on the Jagodna <strong>and</strong> Bojanić<br />
beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja <strong>and</strong><br />
Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje<br />
<strong>and</strong> Vela Lučica beaches. On isl<strong>and</strong>‘s eastern side lies the<br />
small port of Sućuraj which is also the start<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t of the<br />
ma<strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong> ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik l<strong>in</strong>e).<br />
Sućuraj was settled <strong>in</strong> the mid 15th century. The oldest <strong>and</strong><br />
best preserved build<strong>in</strong>g there is the old August<strong>in</strong>ian (<strong>and</strong><br />
now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the<br />
old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the<br />
s<strong>and</strong>y Česm<strong>in</strong>ica beach <strong>and</strong> Bil<strong>in</strong>a on the northern side.<br />
The isl<strong>and</strong>‘s mounta<strong>in</strong>s aren‘t very high, however, with their<br />
coastal slopes <strong>and</strong> marvellous sea views they are ideal for<br />
any hiker‘s aspirations. The possibility of sail<strong>in</strong>g, mounta<strong>in</strong><br />
hik<strong>in</strong>g, trekk<strong>in</strong>g are promis<strong>in</strong>g as too for div<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
Hvar <strong>and</strong> the isl<strong>and</strong> Vis are the hubs of w<strong>in</strong>emak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />
these areas, the history of which stretches back far <strong>in</strong>to the<br />
past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties<br />
‘Bogdanuša‘ <strong>and</strong> ‘Drenkuša‘ which can not be found<br />
anywhere else. The southern side of the isl<strong>and</strong> is ideal for the<br />
cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali‘ due to its sunny hillsides which<br />
give the w<strong>in</strong>e its high quality. Renowned w<strong>in</strong>e estates <strong>in</strong>clude<br />
Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality w<strong>in</strong>e<br />
‘Zlatan Plavac‘ (Gr<strong>and</strong> Cru 2003), the Tomić w<strong>in</strong>e estate<br />
where you can f<strong>in</strong>d Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali<br />
Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the<br />
Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić,<br />
Vujnović <strong>and</strong> P.Z Svirče estates.<br />
Vis<br />
The isl<strong>and</strong> of Vis is one of the most <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g mar<strong>in</strong>e areas<br />
<strong>in</strong> the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for<br />
foreigners <strong>in</strong> Communist Yugoslavia, the isl<strong>and</strong> has largely<br />
rema<strong>in</strong>ed untouched <strong>and</strong> unmarred, surrounded by seas of<br />
<strong>in</strong>describable beauty.<br />
The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast<br />
coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of<br />
Biševo, Brusnik <strong>and</strong> Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />
the east, Sušac.<br />
Vis is an isl<strong>and</strong> that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its<br />
fair distance from the ma<strong>in</strong>l<strong>and</strong>. However, it‘s an excellent<br />
place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty,<br />
or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.<br />
The only way to arrive to the isl<strong>and</strong> of Vis is by ferry or<br />
catamaran. If arriv<strong>in</strong>g from Split, <strong>and</strong> if <strong>in</strong> possession of a<br />
car, you can only go via the Jadrol<strong>in</strong>ija Ferry service. The trip<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
split dalmatia couNty<br />
takes 1 hour <strong>and</strong> 15 m<strong>in</strong>utes <strong>and</strong> from Split, tickets can be<br />
purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets<br />
can be purchased at Jadrol<strong>in</strong>ija Agency. The two largest<br />
towns on the isl<strong>and</strong>, Vis <strong>and</strong> Komiža, are connected with a bus<br />
l<strong>in</strong>e. The ma<strong>in</strong> bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the<br />
right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus <strong>and</strong><br />
are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who<br />
get off the bus <strong>in</strong> Komiža, there is always a bus connection<br />
for Vis tied <strong>in</strong> with the ferry departures for Split.<br />
Th<strong>in</strong>gs to see <strong>and</strong> do:<br />
The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with ab<strong>and</strong>on<br />
<strong>and</strong> without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic<br />
delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the<br />
marvelous beaches at the small bay St<strong>in</strong>iva (the prettiest<br />
s<strong>and</strong>y beach on the isl<strong>and</strong>, 10km north from the town<br />
of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also,<br />
don‘t miss the chance to me<strong>and</strong>er around the renaissance<br />
summer villas, Tito‘s cave above Podšpilja or the ru<strong>in</strong>s of<br />
the ancient city.<br />
Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites <strong>in</strong> Croatia.<br />
One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek<br />
colony of Issa was located here <strong>in</strong> the 4th century BC. The<br />
ru<strong>in</strong>s of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen <strong>in</strong> parts of<br />
the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis <strong>and</strong> theatre <strong>and</strong><br />
you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological<br />
Museum of Vis which is located <strong>in</strong> the Austrian fortress<br />
“Gosp<strong>in</strong>a batarija‘ (Our Lady‘s Battery) also known for its<br />
large collection of amphorae <strong>and</strong> more notably for its bronze<br />
head of the Greek godess Artemis.<br />
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Summer 2011<br />
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52 split dalmatia couNty<br />
The isl<strong>and</strong> Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen <strong>in</strong> the<br />
churches of Sv.Ciprijana (St Cyprian) <strong>and</strong> the Holy Spirit, the<br />
Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo pen<strong>in</strong>sula <strong>and</strong> the<br />
sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) <strong>in</strong> Podselja.<br />
Komiža is a fish<strong>in</strong>g village located at the southern end of the<br />
isl<strong>and</strong> which is dom<strong>in</strong>ated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also<br />
houses the Fish<strong>in</strong>g Museum. The ma<strong>in</strong> church <strong>in</strong> Komiža, the<br />
church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offer<strong>in</strong>g<br />
a spectacular view of below.<br />
The <strong>in</strong>terior areas of Vis are worth see<strong>in</strong>g, especially the<br />
township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone<br />
huts), only a 45 m<strong>in</strong>ute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is<br />
<strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g because it is one of the rare preserved villages<br />
which has conserved its exceptional form.<br />
Without the div<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> swimm<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the Medvjed<strong>in</strong>a<br />
(Medvjed<strong>in</strong>a Cave) on Biševo, <strong>and</strong> the Zelena špilja<br />
(Green Cave) near Milna, the isl<strong>and</strong> of Vis wouldn‘t be the<br />
marvel that it is.<br />
And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />
enjoy a true mar<strong>in</strong>e experience!<br />
It‘s worth engag<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a gastronomic adventure on the isl<strong>and</strong><br />
of Vis, for the isl<strong>and</strong> is known as the “isl<strong>and</strong> of sweetness”.<br />
It has a unique way of prepar<strong>in</strong>g sard<strong>in</strong>es (srdele), a fish<br />
stew served with soft polenta <strong>and</strong> fagioli beans (brudet),<br />
young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozlet<strong>in</strong>a na gradelima),<br />
artichokes with broad-beans <strong>and</strong> peas (artičoke sa bobom<br />
i bižima), octopus <strong>in</strong> red w<strong>in</strong>e (hobotnica u crnom v<strong>in</strong>u),<br />
crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to<br />
one exceptional <strong>in</strong>gredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib)<br />
which is prepared for guests all year round <strong>and</strong> conta<strong>in</strong>s<br />
dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape <strong>and</strong> fennel<br />
spirits. And, let‘s not forget the isl<strong>and</strong>‘s charm<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>es,<br />
Viška Vugava <strong>and</strong> Plavac. By the way, the delicious <strong>and</strong><br />
most popular spirits on the isl<strong>and</strong> of Vis <strong>in</strong>clude flavours of<br />
carob, rose, sage <strong>and</strong> fennel.<br />
Surround<strong>in</strong>gs<br />
Makarska Riviera<br />
A stay <strong>in</strong> the Riviera offers all of the th<strong>in</strong>gs you can f<strong>in</strong>d on<br />
any normal Croatian holiday (beautiful scenery, crystal clear<br />
water, etc.), along with a few added bonuses that might<br />
make it particularly attractive for some visitors. The first<br />
of these th<strong>in</strong>gs might be the Riviera‘s namesake, the city<br />
of Makarska. The ma<strong>in</strong> highlight of this small coastal town<br />
might well be its promenade, the palm-l<strong>in</strong>ed Mar<strong>in</strong>eta street,<br />
where cafés, bars <strong>and</strong> shops keep watch over the nearby<br />
harbour. The town‘s horizon is dom<strong>in</strong>ated by nearby Biokovo<br />
mounta<strong>in</strong> range, a must-see for visitors to Makarska. At<br />
1762m, Biokovo is the highest mounta<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> Dalmatia <strong>and</strong> is<br />
marked with over thirty hik<strong>in</strong>g trails of vary<strong>in</strong>g difficulty <strong>and</strong><br />
abounds with caves, the rema<strong>in</strong>s of ancient villages, all sorts<br />
of wildlife scamper<strong>in</strong>g about <strong>and</strong> even a botanical garden,<br />
mak<strong>in</strong>g it an absolute haven for hik<strong>in</strong>g enthusiasts. From<br />
the top of the mounta<strong>in</strong> on a clear day, you can see every<br />
isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> Dalmatia stretch<strong>in</strong>g out beneath you. If that‘s not<br />
enough to satiate your travel hunger, the rest of the Riviera is<br />
dotted with a number of t<strong>in</strong>y, quiet towns that are numerous<br />
enough to avoid becom<strong>in</strong>g bogged down by the summer<br />
tourist explosion. Towns such as Baška Voda, Podgora <strong>and</strong><br />
Gradac could be ideal stopp<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts on a me<strong>and</strong>er<strong>in</strong>g trip<br />
through the Riviera, with plenty of time taken to soak up the<br />
sun, laze on beautiful beaches <strong>and</strong> get to know a bit about<br />
life <strong>in</strong> each place along the way.<br />
Adriatic photo service<br />
Omiš<br />
Orig<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Mt. D<strong>in</strong>ara at the border of Croatia <strong>and</strong> Bosnia<br />
<strong>and</strong> Herzegov<strong>in</strong>a, the Cet<strong>in</strong>a River w<strong>in</strong>ds a tortuous course<br />
through the countryside until it f<strong>in</strong>ally empty<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to the<br />
Adriatic.The mouth of the river passes through an impressive<br />
gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet <strong>and</strong><br />
picturesque town that is the center of what has become<br />
known as „the Omiš Riviera“. However, th<strong>in</strong>gs were not always<br />
so quiet. Omiš ga<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong>itial notoriety because of a b<strong>and</strong> of<br />
pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled<br />
the waters <strong>in</strong> the area <strong>in</strong> special boats called „arrows“, so<br />
named for their ability to attack quickly <strong>and</strong> retreat speedily<br />
<strong>in</strong>to the mouth of the river.<br />
While it‘s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen<br />
cruis<strong>in</strong>g the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fasttravel<strong>in</strong>g<br />
pirate ships, there‘s still plenty of adventure to be<br />
had <strong>in</strong> Omiš. The mounta<strong>in</strong>ous areas around the town make<br />
for great hik<strong>in</strong>g spots, the water is an <strong>in</strong>vit<strong>in</strong>g crystall<strong>in</strong>e<br />
blue <strong>and</strong> the history of the town can be explored <strong>in</strong> the<br />
remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of<br />
Omiš used to defend the town aga<strong>in</strong>st attacks from Turkish<br />
<strong>in</strong>vaders), churches <strong>and</strong> other structures dat<strong>in</strong>g back as far<br />
as the 13th century. And when you‘re f<strong>in</strong>ished explor<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
natural beauty of Omiš <strong>and</strong> it‘s history, the town‘s central<br />
location makes it a perfect start<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t for the rest of your<br />
Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully m<strong>in</strong>us any dreams of<br />
terroriz<strong>in</strong>g the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš.<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Fancy a little raft<strong>in</strong>g, canyon<strong>in</strong>g, trekk<strong>in</strong>g or perhaps a canoe<br />
safari <strong>in</strong> between swimm<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> sunn<strong>in</strong>g yourself? All you<br />
need to do is contact the Omiš area agencies below. Let<br />
the adventure beg<strong>in</strong>!<br />
Active Holidays Knezova Kačića bb, tel. (+385-21)<br />
86 18 29/(+385-21) 86 30 15, <strong>in</strong>fo@activeholidays.<br />
hr, www.activeholidays-croatia.com. Q Open 08:00 -<br />
13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.<br />
Almissa larus Vukovarska bb (Galeb Camp), tel.<br />
(+385-21) 86 45 96, almissa-larus@galeb.hr, www.<br />
almissa-larus.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Dalmat<strong>in</strong>o tours Put ribnjaka bb, tel. (+385-21) 86 44<br />
52/(+385-) 098 165 55 99, <strong>in</strong>fo@dalmat<strong>in</strong>o-tours.com,<br />
www.dalmat<strong>in</strong>o-tours.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
Jut Podgrađe bb, tel. (+385-21) 86 90 05/(+385-) 098<br />
167 84 99, jut@jut-cet<strong>in</strong>a.hr, www.jut-cet<strong>in</strong>a.hr. Q<br />
Open by prior arrangement.<br />
Raft<strong>in</strong>g P<strong>in</strong>ta Rogač 1/10, Duće, tel. (+385-21) 73 40<br />
16/(+385-) 091 530 45 02, contact@raft<strong>in</strong>g-p<strong>in</strong>ta.com,<br />
www.raft<strong>in</strong>g-p<strong>in</strong>ta.com. Q Open by prior arrangement.<br />
Ružmar<strong>in</strong> Put Skalica 5, tel. (+385-21) 75 66 56,<br />
uprava@ruzmar<strong>in</strong>.hr, www.ruzmar<strong>in</strong>.hr. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 21:00. A<br />
Slap Slime, Zadvarje, tel. (+385-21) 87 11 08, slap@<br />
st.t-com.hr, www.hrslap.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Sol<strong>in</strong><br />
Sol<strong>in</strong>, aka Salona <strong>in</strong> Italian <strong>and</strong> Lat<strong>in</strong>, st<strong>and</strong>s 8 kilometres<br />
outside of Split at the meet<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t of the River Jadro <strong>and</strong><br />
the Adriatic Sea <strong>and</strong> was at one time the largest Roman<br />
settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of<br />
its primary historical dist<strong>in</strong>ctions is that it was the birthplace<br />
of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now,<br />
erected his palace <strong>in</strong> Split <strong>and</strong> spent the rest of his days<br />
there. Sol<strong>in</strong> also probably played a role <strong>in</strong> Christianity‘s early<br />
history. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to the Bible, Paul‘s student Titus traveled<br />
to the region <strong>and</strong>, because of its sea connections with Italy<br />
<strong>and</strong> the Middle East, it is likely that Sol<strong>in</strong> would have attracted<br />
such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town‘s<br />
role as a crossroads of cultures <strong>and</strong> religions left beh<strong>in</strong>d an<br />
archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of<br />
„Croatia‘s Pompeii“.<br />
Until recently, Sol<strong>in</strong> depended on its cement <strong>and</strong> asbestos<br />
factories as its pr<strong>in</strong>cipal <strong>in</strong>dustries, which did little to<br />
enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations<br />
expos<strong>in</strong>g the rema<strong>in</strong>s of the former Roman town located<br />
nearby, tourists from Trogir <strong>and</strong> Split are giv<strong>in</strong>g the town<br />
a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the<br />
possibility to stroll among ancient ru<strong>in</strong>s that are over two<br />
thous<strong>and</strong> years old. In response to this <strong>in</strong>crease <strong>in</strong> tourism,<br />
Sol<strong>in</strong> has dedicated itself to highlight<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> preserv<strong>in</strong>g<br />
its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been<br />
carefully preserved <strong>and</strong> is dotted with loads of green areas<br />
that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if<br />
you‘re not thrilled by the idea of explor<strong>in</strong>g ancient ru<strong>in</strong>s. In<br />
the end, Sol<strong>in</strong> makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir<br />
<strong>and</strong>, consider<strong>in</strong>g the wealth of history ready to be explored<br />
there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets <strong>in</strong> the<br />
country that is just slightly off the beaten path.<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
split dalmatia couNty<br />
Adriatic photo service<br />
Trogir<br />
Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance<br />
away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses<br />
<strong>in</strong>credible historical <strong>and</strong> architectural traditions, both of<br />
which have been built upon by a progression of generations<br />
dur<strong>in</strong>g the past 2,300 years. Walk<strong>in</strong>g the streets of Trogir‘s<br />
old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque<br />
<strong>and</strong> Renaissance architecture <strong>and</strong> artwork, juxtaposed with<br />
modern stores <strong>and</strong> shop fronts, mak<strong>in</strong>g Trogir a fasc<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g<br />
amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.<br />
Founded <strong>in</strong> the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the<br />
isl<strong>and</strong> of Vis, Trogir was an important port <strong>in</strong> the region until<br />
well <strong>in</strong>to the Roman era, when its importance was dim<strong>in</strong>ished<br />
by the rise of Salona. Aga<strong>in</strong>, like so many other coastal<br />
Croatian towns, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of<br />
victories, defeats, periods of autonomy <strong>and</strong> periods of<br />
subservience to outside governments, with the town f<strong>in</strong>ally<br />
com<strong>in</strong>g under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.<br />
While the former rulers of the region were <strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong><br />
Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are<br />
<strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong> the structures that dwell <strong>in</strong>side the walls of the<br />
city‘s old town. Of particular importance are the churches<br />
<strong>and</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs dat<strong>in</strong>g from the 13th century; the Duke‘s<br />
palace, which dates from the 13th century; <strong>and</strong> perhaps<br />
most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence<br />
<strong>and</strong> the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist <strong>and</strong><br />
Trogir native, created the <strong>in</strong>tricate entryway to the cathedral<br />
<strong>in</strong> 1240.<br />
The cultural <strong>and</strong> historical significance of the town <strong>and</strong> its<br />
architecture were verified <strong>in</strong> 1997 when UNESCO (the United<br />
Nations Educational, Scientific <strong>and</strong> Cultural Organization) added<br />
Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, mark<strong>in</strong>g the<br />
beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of a new era <strong>in</strong> Trogir‘s history. While traditionally an<br />
economy focused on agriculture <strong>and</strong> fish<strong>in</strong>g, this new era of the<br />
town‘s development will almost def<strong>in</strong>itely be focused on tourism,<br />
as Croatia‘s coast becomes an <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>gly popular dest<strong>in</strong>ation<br />
for tourists from around the world.<br />
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Summer 2011<br />
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56 BiRdWatchiNg iN cRoatia<br />
Note: this is not a specialist or expert text on birdwatch<strong>in</strong>g<br />
but a general overview of birdwatch<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Croatia. The text<br />
has been prepared <strong>in</strong> cooperation with the web portal<br />
www.ptice.net <strong>and</strong> with the k<strong>in</strong>d assistance of Mr Darko<br />
Podravec, with our thanks.<br />
Birdwatch<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Croatia is only recently ga<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> popularity,<br />
partly due to the <strong>in</strong>terest shown by visitors from other<br />
European countries, notably Great Brita<strong>in</strong>. However, local<br />
ornithological societies <strong>and</strong> other organisations, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g<br />
schools, are also mak<strong>in</strong>g a significant contribution through<br />
monitor<strong>in</strong>g the numbers of birds, organis<strong>in</strong>g volunteer camps<br />
for tagg<strong>in</strong>g birds <strong>and</strong> rais<strong>in</strong>g awareness about the need not<br />
only to protect birds but the environment as a whole.<br />
Accord<strong>in</strong>g to data from the State Directorate for the<br />
Protection of Nature <strong>and</strong> the Environment, <strong>in</strong> December<br />
1999 there were 371 bird species <strong>in</strong> Croatia, an exceptionally<br />
high number for a country of this size. There are 228 nest<strong>in</strong>g<br />
species, of which 78 are registered as endangered species<br />
<strong>in</strong> Europe. At the same time, Croatia has an exceptionally<br />
high number of endangered species due to disappear<strong>in</strong>g<br />
habitats, especially wetl<strong>and</strong>s, <strong>and</strong> due to poach<strong>in</strong>g. The<br />
majority of protected species are to be found <strong>in</strong> hard-toreach<br />
areas such as mounta<strong>in</strong> peaks, cliff faces <strong>and</strong> gorges,<br />
<strong>and</strong> areas such as the Neretva delta on the Adriatic coast<br />
<strong>and</strong> along the Sava <strong>and</strong> Drava rivers <strong>in</strong> the north, as well<br />
as close to the large fish farms to be found <strong>in</strong> Pannonian<br />
Croatia.<br />
Today <strong>in</strong> Croatia there are 19 bird reserves engaged <strong>in</strong><br />
nature protection <strong>in</strong> areas where there are large bird<br />
populations, large numbers of species of birds, or where<br />
endangered species are to be found. Birdlife International<br />
has identified 23 Important Bird Areas <strong>in</strong> Croatia, while<br />
the State Directorate for the Protection of Nature <strong>and</strong> the<br />
Environment has recognised 40 areas which are important<br />
for bird life. Some of these areas are bird reserves, some<br />
form parts of national parks or nature parks, while others do<br />
not enjoy any form of protection.<br />
Waterbird Census<br />
Darko Podravec<br />
Bird lovers can take part <strong>in</strong> the International W<strong>in</strong>ter<br />
Waterbird Census, organised by Wetl<strong>and</strong>s International<br />
on a global level. Tak<strong>in</strong>g place over three weeks at<br />
the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of January every year, the census aims<br />
to collect <strong>in</strong>formation on the ever more endangered<br />
bird species that <strong>in</strong>habit marshes <strong>and</strong> other wetl<strong>and</strong><br />
habitats, as well as on species that nest <strong>in</strong> the far<br />
northern regions of Europe <strong>and</strong> Asia. Read more on<br />
www.wetl<strong>and</strong>s.org<br />
Darko Podravec<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Although there are birdwatch<strong>in</strong>g opportunities all year round,<br />
the liveliest seasons are spr<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> autumn. Autumn signals<br />
both the departure of species that nest <strong>in</strong> Croatia <strong>and</strong> the<br />
arrival of visitors from northern Europe <strong>and</strong> Asia. In spr<strong>in</strong>g,<br />
the species that spend their w<strong>in</strong>ters <strong>in</strong> the warmer climes of<br />
Africa return to nest. At any time, you might spot a species<br />
that is just pass<strong>in</strong>g through en route to somewhere else:<br />
Croatia is a bottleneck on the migratory route to <strong>and</strong> from<br />
Africa for a large number of European bird species. There<br />
are guide books available to help you identify species <strong>and</strong><br />
underst<strong>and</strong> their behaviour.<br />
The best times of the day for birdwatch<strong>in</strong>g are the early<br />
morn<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> early even<strong>in</strong>g. At these times, birds are at their<br />
most active, especially dur<strong>in</strong>g the summer when birds, like<br />
people, avoid the hottest part of the day.<br />
Of course, if you do go birdwatch<strong>in</strong>g, it’s vital to take care<br />
not to disturb the birds. Large numbers of visitors to national<br />
parks, nature parks <strong>and</strong> bird reserves may be distress<strong>in</strong>g<br />
to their <strong>in</strong>habitants, <strong>and</strong> disturb<strong>in</strong>g the birds prevents us<br />
from be<strong>in</strong>g able to observe their natural behaviour. It is<br />
advisable to avoid gett<strong>in</strong>g too close to bird nests, s<strong>in</strong>ce you<br />
risk the parents ab<strong>and</strong>on<strong>in</strong>g the nests, which is disastrous,<br />
especially where endangered species are concerned.<br />
The equipment you need for birdwatch<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>cludes good<br />
quality b<strong>in</strong>oculars <strong>and</strong> a h<strong>and</strong>book which classifies birds by<br />
species. You’ll also be glad of a good camera <strong>and</strong> sensible<br />
cloth<strong>in</strong>g. Obviously, you should avoid bright colours which will<br />
scare the birds away.<br />
Many birdwatchers pass on the <strong>in</strong>formation they collect to<br />
the <strong>in</strong>stitutions responsible for the protection of birds or<br />
to ornithological societies, which is of great help to these<br />
organisations <strong>in</strong> monitor<strong>in</strong>g changes <strong>in</strong> the number of birds,<br />
<strong>in</strong> their behaviour <strong>and</strong> habitats.<br />
EuroBirdwatch<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
BiRdWatchiNg iN cRoatia<br />
Darko Podravec<br />
Bird lovers by now have a date <strong>in</strong> their diary every<br />
year for the first weekend <strong>in</strong> October, when the annual<br />
EuroBirdwatch is held. Organised by BirdLife, a global<br />
partnership of conservation organisations, the event<br />
aims to raise awareness of issues related to bird<br />
migration, to promote protection of endangered bird<br />
species <strong>and</strong> to recruit new members for the partner<br />
organisations. See www.birdlife.org<br />
The first bird reserve <strong>in</strong> Croatia<br />
Krapje đol, not far from the villages of Krapje <strong>and</strong><br />
Jasenovac <strong>in</strong> central Croatia, was designated a bird<br />
reserve <strong>in</strong> 1963. Here, a tributary of the River Sava<br />
provides ideal nest<strong>in</strong>g conditions for the Eurasian<br />
Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia). The tributary sadly<br />
dried up due to the construction of an embankment <strong>and</strong><br />
became overgrown. However, the species which nest<br />
here, which are rare both <strong>in</strong> European <strong>and</strong> global terms,<br />
have been saved thanks to a canal which was built to<br />
restore the flow of water.<br />
Darko Podravec<br />
S<strong>in</strong>ce birdwatch<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Croatia is still not very common, below<br />
we list a range of organisations which might be of <strong>in</strong>terest<br />
to nature lovers, although there might neither be much<br />
<strong>in</strong>formation about birds <strong>in</strong> specific nor professional guides.<br />
Before visit<strong>in</strong>g any protected area, we ask you to please<br />
contact the organisation responsible, which will give you<br />
any <strong>in</strong>structions <strong>and</strong> warn<strong>in</strong>gs necessary to protect fragile<br />
habitats, enabl<strong>in</strong>g as many people as possible to enjoy the<br />
beauty of nature as well as learn<strong>in</strong>g how to protect it.<br />
The Pantan wetl<strong>and</strong>s area near Trogir was declared a nature<br />
reserve for fish <strong>and</strong> bird life <strong>in</strong> the year 2000. Unfortunately,<br />
this once extensive marshl<strong>and</strong> was encroached upon by<br />
nearby built up areas <strong>in</strong> the past, <strong>and</strong> as yet there are no<br />
organised birdwatch<strong>in</strong>g activities, but Pantan is nevertheless<br />
a valuable example of a marsh area on the eastern Adriatic<br />
where salt water m<strong>in</strong>gles with fresh water, <strong>and</strong> it provides an<br />
important stop on the migratory path for wetl<strong>and</strong> birds. The<br />
public <strong>in</strong>stitution Dalmatian Nature is responsible for the<br />
management of this nature reserve: if you are <strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong><br />
visit<strong>in</strong>g Pantan, please contact them <strong>in</strong> advance.<br />
Dalmatian Nature – Public <strong>in</strong>stitute for natural heritage<br />
managment, Braće Kaliterna 10. Tel. (+385-21) 33 23<br />
22, www.dalmatian-nature.hr<br />
Summer 2011<br />
57
58 iNdeX<br />
Aci Grašo 22<br />
Adria 21<br />
Adriana 18<br />
Adriana 22<br />
Agroresort Bračka Perla 20<br />
Apetit 22<br />
Archeological Museum (Arheološki<br />
muzej) 30<br />
Art 17<br />
Art&čok 23<br />
As 18<br />
Atrium 17<br />
Bellevue 18<br />
Bifora 27<br />
Biševo 21<br />
Bistro Black Cat 22<br />
Bluesun Hotel Borak 20<br />
Boban 22<br />
Bobis-Riva 24<br />
Bota Šare 23<br />
Caffe Gallery Ave 26<br />
Cardo 22<br />
City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) 30<br />
Consul 18<br />
Croatia 20<br />
Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski<br />
pomorski muzej) 30<br />
Dalm<strong>in</strong>a 17<br />
Delta 23<br />
Diocletian‘s Palace (Dioklecijanova<br />
palača) 28<br />
Dujam 18<br />
Duje 22<br />
Element bar 27<br />
Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija<br />
Emanuel Vidović) 31<br />
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski<br />
muzej) 30<br />
Favola 26<br />
Fife 23<br />
Fish Market (Ribarnica) 28<br />
Gaga 26<br />
Galerija 24<br />
Galija 24<br />
Ghetto 27<br />
Globo 17<br />
Green Market (Pazar) 28<br />
Grgur N<strong>in</strong>ski 33<br />
Gušt 24<br />
Hem<strong>in</strong>gway 27<br />
Hvaran<strong>in</strong> 24<br />
Il posto 22<br />
Issa 21<br />
Jugo 23<br />
Jungla 27<br />
Kadena 22<br />
Kalafatić 26<br />
Kantun Paul<strong>in</strong>a 23<br />
Kavana Procaffe 26<br />
Kibela 24<br />
Kocka 27<br />
Kod Joze 24<br />
Konoba Leut 24<br />
Konoba Varoš 25<br />
Kuća sladoleda Carmen 24<br />
La Maison de Sarah 24<br />
Le Meridien 21<br />
Le Monde 23<br />
Lučica 25<br />
Lvxor 26<br />
Makrovega 25<br />
Marjan Pen<strong>in</strong>sula (Marjan) 28<br />
Marmont 17<br />
Marmontova Street (Marmontova<br />
ulica) 33<br />
Masl<strong>in</strong>a 24<br />
Mc Donald‘s 23<br />
Meštrović Gallery <strong>and</strong> the Crikv<strong>in</strong>e<br />
Kaštelet 31<br />
More 18<br />
Museum of Croatian Archeological<br />
Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih<br />
arheoloških spomenika) 31<br />
Narodni (People‘s) Square (Narodni<br />
trg - Pjaca) 34<br />
Noštromo 23<br />
O‘Hara 27<br />
Obojena Svjetlost 27<br />
Oštarija u Viđakovi 25<br />
Palača Dešković 20<br />
Park 17<br />
Pašike 21<br />
Pastura 20<br />
Peristil 18<br />
Pimp<strong>in</strong>ella 25<br />
Po Bota 26<br />
Poljud Stadium 34<br />
Posejdon 23<br />
President 17<br />
Prokurative (Trg Republike) 33<br />
Puls2 27<br />
Red room 27<br />
Riva 28<br />
Riva 21<br />
Rizzo 23<br />
Sa<strong>in</strong>t Dom<strong>in</strong>ic‘s Church <strong>and</strong><br />
Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv.<br />
Dom<strong>in</strong>ika) 32<br />
San Antonio 21<br />
Šetač 26<br />
Silver Central 20<br />
Silver Gate 20<br />
Slavija 18<br />
Šperun 25<br />
Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetn<strong>in</strong>a)<br />
32<br />
Split Hostel Booze <strong>and</strong> Snooze 20<br />
St Riva 27<br />
Stelon 23<br />
Teak caffe 26<br />
Teraca Bamba 26<br />
Terra Antika 25<br />
The Church of Our Lady of the Bell<br />
tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) 32<br />
The Church of Sa<strong>in</strong>t Francis<br />
(Samostanska crkva sv. Frane) 32<br />
The Church of Sa<strong>in</strong>t Mart<strong>in</strong> (Golden<br />
gate) (Crkvica sv. Mart<strong>in</strong>a) 32<br />
The Franciscan Church <strong>and</strong><br />
Monastery of the Assumption of the<br />
Blessed Virg<strong>in</strong> Mary (Franjevačka<br />
crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene<br />
Djevice Marije) 32<br />
The Palace 21<br />
The Peristyle <strong>and</strong> The Cathedral of<br />
St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv.<br />
Dujma) 30<br />
The Sa<strong>in</strong>t Clara Monastery <strong>and</strong><br />
Church (Samostan i Crkva sv. Klare)<br />
33<br />
The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica<br />
splitske katedrale) 32<br />
Tonik Juicy Bar 26<br />
Tradicija 24<br />
Vanilla 27<br />
Veli Varoš 32<br />
Velo misto No 1 24<br />
Vestibul Palace 17<br />
Vidilica 26<br />
Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće<br />
Radića) 34<br />
Waterman Svpetrvs Resort 20<br />
Žbirac 26<br />
Zlatna ribica 25<br />
Zlatna vrata 24<br />
Zoološki vrt 34<br />
Zrno zdravog života 25<br />
Adriatic photo service<br />
??City?? In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
A. Cesarca C-3<br />
Ante Petravića E-1/F-1<br />
Antuna Branka Šimića E-3<br />
Arapova C-2, H-2<br />
Bab<strong>in</strong>a C-3, H-3<br />
Bakotićeva C-2<br />
Ban Mladenova C-3/D-3, H-2<br />
Ban Berislavićeva C-2<br />
Bana Josipa Jelačića I-2<br />
Barakovićeva E-3<br />
Barešićeva F-2/G-2<br />
Barićeva H-2<br />
Bartola Kašića C-3<br />
Begovićeva C-3<br />
Benkovačka E-2<br />
Bernarda Vukasa E-2<br />
Bihaćka D-2, J-1<br />
Bijank<strong>in</strong>ijeva D-3, K-3<br />
Bilanova H-2<br />
Bilice I G-1<br />
Bilice II G-1<br />
Biogradska G-3<br />
Biokovska D-2, K-1<br />
Biserova C-2/D-2, I-1<br />
Bjelovarska E-2<br />
split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
Blat<strong>in</strong>e E-3<br />
Blaža Trogiran<strong>in</strong>a B-3<br />
Bleiburških žrtava D-2<br />
Boktulj<strong>in</strong> put E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2<br />
Bolska D-2, K-1<br />
Borčićeva C-3, H-2<br />
Bosanska I-2<br />
Botićevo šetalište C-3<br />
Bože Peričića E-3<br />
Bračka F-3<br />
BračkaUvala Zenta E-3<br />
Brajevića prilaz H-3<br />
Branimirova obala C-3, H-3<br />
Bregovita D-3<br />
Bribirska D-2, J-1<br />
Brune Bušića E-2<br />
Bubalova K-3<br />
Bukovčeva D-3<br />
Bulićeva J-2<br />
Buvn<strong>in</strong>a I-2<br />
Catanij<strong>in</strong> put C-3<br />
Cesta mira F-2<br />
Cosmijeva I-2<br />
Cvjetna E-3<br />
Čiovska B-3<br />
stReet RegisteR<br />
Čulića dvori D-2/D-3, J-2<br />
Ćiril-Metodova D-2, I-2<br />
D<strong>in</strong>arska E-2<br />
D<strong>in</strong>ka Šimunovića F-3<br />
Dioklecijanova J-2<br />
Dobrić I-2<br />
Dobril<strong>in</strong>a E-3/F-3<br />
Domaldova I-2<br />
Dom<strong>in</strong>isova J-2<br />
Domov<strong>in</strong>skog rata E-2/F-2, J-1<br />
Doverska F-3/G-3<br />
Drage Ivaniševića E-2<br />
Dragovode G-2<br />
Dražanac C-3, H-3<br />
Drniška E-1/F-1<br />
Drvenička B-3<br />
Držićeva D-2<br />
DržićevaK-1/K-2<br />
Dubrovačka D-2/E-2<br />
Dumanića K-3<br />
Duplančića dvori K-2/K-3<br />
Duvanjska D-3<br />
Fra Bon<strong>in</strong>a C-2<br />
Fra Grge Martića E-2<br />
Fra Luje Maruna K-2<br />
Franje Račkog D-2, K-1<br />
Gajeva C-2, H-1<br />
Getaldićeva F-2<br />
Glagoljaška D-3, K-2<br />
Gorička D-2, J-1/K-1<br />
Gorski put F-1/F-2/G-1<br />
Gosp<strong>in</strong>ica E-3<br />
Grada Antofagaste C-2<br />
Gradišćanskih Hrvata F-1<br />
Grge Novaka E-2<br />
Gundulićeva D-2<br />
Harambašićeva C-2, H-1<br />
Hektorovićeva E-3<br />
Hercegovačka E-1<br />
Hrvatske mornarice C-2/D-2<br />
Hrvatskih iseljenika D-2<br />
Hrvojeva D-3, J-2/J-3<br />
Hvarska D-3, K-3<br />
I. G. Kovačića D-3<br />
Ilićev prolaz I-2<br />
Iločka E-2<br />
Imotska F-1<br />
Ispod Sv. Lovre G-3<br />
Istarska D-2, J-1/J-2/K-1<br />
Ivana Pl. Zajca E-3/F-3<br />
Summer 2011<br />
59
60 stReet RegisteR<br />
Ivana Raosa F-1<br />
Jadranska D-3<br />
Jakova Gotovca F-2<br />
Janjevska F-2/G-2<br />
Jer<strong>in</strong>a H-2<br />
Jerolima Kavanj<strong>in</strong>a I-1<br />
Jesenička K-3<br />
Jobova C-2<br />
Kačićeva D-2, I-1<br />
Kamenita C-2, H-1/H-2<br />
Kapićeva E-3<br />
Karamanova C-2<br />
Karlovačka E-2<br />
Kaštelanova E-3<br />
Kaštelanska C-2<br />
Katal<strong>in</strong>ićev prilaz D-3<br />
Kijevska F-2<br />
Klaićeva poljana I-2<br />
Klar<strong>in</strong>a D-3, K-3<br />
Kliška D-2<br />
Kliška J-1<br />
Kneza Lj. Posavskog D-2<br />
Kneza Mislava D-3, K-2<br />
Kneza Višeslava D-2/D-3, K-2<br />
Kn<strong>in</strong>ska D-2, I-2<br />
Kocunarski prilaz E-2/F-2<br />
Kolombatićevo šetalište B-2/C-2/C-3<br />
Komulovića put D-1/D-2/E-1/E-2<br />
Kopilica E-1<br />
Kotorska G-3<br />
Kozjačka C-2, H-1/H-2<br />
Kragićeva H-1<br />
Kraj Zlatnih Vrata J-2<br />
Kralja Stjepana Držislava G-2/G-3<br />
Kralja Tomislava D-2, I-2/J-2<br />
Kralja Zvonimira D-3/E-3, J-3<br />
Kranjčevićeva E-3<br />
Krbavska F-2<br />
Krešimirova J-2<br />
Križanićeva E-2<br />
Križ<strong>in</strong>e F-3<br />
Krlež<strong>in</strong>a E-2<br />
Kroz smrdečac F-3<br />
Krste Odaka E-3<br />
Krstulovića dvori J-1/J-2<br />
Kruševića gumno J-1<br />
Kukočeva K-3<br />
Kukuljevićeva E-2<br />
Kumičićeva E-1<br />
Adriatic photo service<br />
Kupreška F-1<br />
Kuzmanićeva K-3<br />
Kuzmića F-1, K-3<br />
Kvaternikova D-2<br />
Lag<strong>in</strong>j<strong>in</strong>a E-2<br />
Lazarica E-3<br />
Lička F-1<br />
Livanjska D-2, J-1<br />
Lovački put G-2<br />
Lovretska D-2<br />
Lovrićeve skale E-3<br />
Lučica C-2<br />
Lučićeva D-2, F-3<br />
Ljubuška F-1<br />
Makarska G-3<br />
M<strong>and</strong>al<strong>in</strong>ski put C-2<br />
Manđerova<br />
Manuška poljana J-1<br />
Marangunićevo šetalište A-3<br />
Marasovića C-3, H-3<br />
Marjanski put B-3<br />
Marjanski tunel C-3<br />
Marmontova D-2, I-2/J-1<br />
Marulićeva J-2<br />
Matice Hrvatske E-2/E-3/F-2<br />
Matije Gupca D-3<br />
Matije Ivanića E-2<br />
Matoševa C-2, H-1<br />
Matošića D-2, I-2<br />
Mažuranićevo šetalište D-2<br />
Mediteranski put C-1<br />
Mejaši I G-2<br />
Mejaši II G-2<br />
Mihanovićeva B-3/C-3<br />
Mile Gojsalića D-3<br />
Milićeva C-2/C-3, H-2<br />
Miš<strong>in</strong>a F-2<br />
Mitnička E-3<br />
Moliških Hrvata F-3<br />
Mosećka E-2/F-2<br />
Mosorska D-3, K-3<br />
Mostarska F-1<br />
Most<strong>in</strong>e G-1<br />
Mrčel<strong>in</strong>a I-2<br />
Na Križice E-3<br />
Na Toć J-3<br />
Narodni trg D-3, I-2<br />
Nazorova C-2/C-3, H-1<br />
Nelipćeva D-3, I-2<br />
Nepotova D-3<br />
Neslanovac F-1<br />
Nigerova I-2<br />
N<strong>in</strong>ska F-2<br />
Nodilova D-2, I-2/J-2<br />
Njegoševa C-3<br />
Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga<br />
preporoda D-3, I-2/I-3<br />
Obala Kneza Domagoja D-3, J-3<br />
Obala Lazareta I-3/J-3<br />
Obrov D-3, I-2<br />
Odeska G-3<br />
Omiška D-3, K-3<br />
Osječka E-2/E-3<br />
Ostravska G-2<br />
Ozaljska F-2/G-2<br />
Palm<strong>in</strong>a C-3, H-2/H-3<br />
Palmotićeva D-3/E-3<br />
Papalićeva J-2<br />
Pap<strong>and</strong>opulova F-3<br />
Pavla R. Vitezovića F-2<br />
Paz<strong>in</strong>ska F-2<br />
Penića H-2<br />
Perića C-3<br />
Perišićeva C-3, H-2<br />
Perivoj Ane Roje F-2<br />
Pervanova K-3<br />
Petra Kružića I-2<br />
Petrićeva K-2/K-3<br />
Petr<strong>in</strong>jska E-2<br />
Petrova D-3, J-3/K-3<br />
Pistura I-2<br />
Plančićeva C-2<br />
Pl<strong>in</strong>arska C-2, H-1<br />
Plitvička E-1<br />
Pod Kosom C-3<br />
Podgorska C-2, H-1<br />
Podrum J-2/J-3<br />
Pojišanska D-3, K-3<br />
Poljička cesta E-3/F-3<br />
Poljudsko šetalište C-1<br />
Popovićeva I-2<br />
Por<strong>in</strong>ova D-2, I-1<br />
Požeška E-2<br />
Pujanke F-2<br />
Puntarska C-2<br />
Pupačićeva E-3<br />
Put Brda F-1<br />
Put Brodarice D-2<br />
Put Dragovoda G-2<br />
Put Duja E-1<br />
Put Firula E-3<br />
Put Glavič<strong>in</strong>a D-2<br />
Put iza nove bolnice E-3<br />
Put Meja C-3<br />
Put Most<strong>in</strong>a G-1<br />
Put Pazdigrada G-3<br />
Put Plokita D-2<br />
Put Ravnih Njiva F-1<br />
Put Sjeverne Luke F-1<br />
Put Skalica C-2/D-2<br />
Put Smokvice F-1<br />
Put Supavla D-1<br />
Put Sv. Lovre G-2/G-3<br />
Put Trstenika F-3<br />
Put Žnjana F-3/G-3<br />
R. Boškovića E-3/F-3<br />
R. Katal<strong>in</strong>ića Jeretova F-2<br />
Radmilovića C-2, H-1<br />
Radnička E-2<br />
Radovanova D-3, J-3<br />
Radunica D-3, J-2<br />
Ramska E-1<br />
Reića C-3, H-2<br />
Reljkovićeva D-2, K-2<br />
Rendićeva C-2<br />
Riječka J-1<br />
Rodrig<strong>in</strong>a I-2/J-2<br />
Rokova D-3, J-2/K-2<br />
Rooseweltova E-3<br />
Sarajevska F-1<br />
Savska D-2/E-2<br />
Senjska C-3, H-2<br />
Severova D-3, J-3<br />
S<strong>in</strong>ovčića H-2<br />
S<strong>in</strong>jska D-2, J-1<br />
Siriščevića H-2/H-3<br />
Skrad<strong>in</strong>ska G-3<br />
Slavićeva C-2, J-1<br />
Slavonska E-2<br />
Smiljanićeva D-2, K-2<br />
Sol<strong>in</strong>ska F-1/G-1<br />
Solurat C-3, H-3<br />
Sp<strong>in</strong>čićeva E-3<br />
Sp<strong>in</strong>utska C-2<br />
Sredmanuška J-2<br />
Stagnja H-2<br />
Starčevićeva D-2<br />
Stari Pazar D-3, J-3<br />
Step<strong>in</strong>čeva E-2<br />
St<strong>in</strong>ice E-1<br />
Stoci G-1<br />
Stonska G-3<br />
Stud<strong>in</strong>ova F-2<br />
Sućidar E-2<br />
Sukoišanska D-2<br />
Supilova B-3<br />
Sustipanski put C-3<br />
Sutroič<strong>in</strong> put C-1/D-1<br />
Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-2<br />
Svačićeva D-2, I-1<br />
Svetog Križa C-2/C-3/D-2/D-3, H-2<br />
Svilajska E-2<br />
Š. Bačvice D-3<br />
Šegvićeva J-3/K-3<br />
Šeno<strong>in</strong>a C-3, H-2<br />
Šetalište BeneGunjač<strong>in</strong>a B-2<br />
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića A-3<br />
Šetalište Mar<strong>in</strong>a Tartaglie A-2/B-<br />
2/C-2<br />
Šibenska E-2<br />
Šižgorićeva E-2/E-3<br />
Škrape E-3<br />
Šoltanska F-3<br />
Šopova G-2<br />
Šperun C-3, H-2<br />
Šubićeva I-2<br />
Table D-2<br />
Tesl<strong>in</strong>a C-2<br />
Težački put G-2<br />
Tijardovićeva F-2<br />
Tolstojeva D-2/D-3, J-2/K-1<br />
Tomića St<strong>in</strong>e H-2<br />
Tončićeva D-2/D-3, I-2<br />
Trg Braće Radić I-2<br />
Trg Gaje Bulata I-1<br />
Trg Republike C-3/D-3, I-2<br />
Triljska F-1<br />
Trogirska D-2/D-3, I-2<br />
Trondheimska F-2/F-3<br />
Trpimirova D-3, J-3<br />
Trstenik F-3<br />
Tršćanska D-2<br />
Trumbićeva obala C-3, H-3<br />
Trumbučac J-3/K-3<br />
Ulica Slobode D-2<br />
Uskočka E-3<br />
Uvala Baluni C-3<br />
V. Krstulovića E-3<br />
V. Lis<strong>in</strong>skog C-2/C-3<br />
Valpovačka E-2<br />
Varažd<strong>in</strong>ska E-2<br />
Velebitska D-2/E-2<br />
Vesanovića K-3<br />
Vetranićeva C-3<br />
Vidilica D-3<br />
Vijugasta H-1<br />
Viktora Vide G-2<br />
V<strong>in</strong>ka Draganje E-2<br />
V<strong>in</strong>kovačka E-2<br />
V<strong>in</strong>odolska F-2<br />
Viskot<strong>in</strong>a K-3<br />
Visoka F-2<br />
Viška D-3<br />
Vjekoslava Paraća E-2<br />
Vladimira Gortana H-2<br />
Vrančićeva E-2<br />
Vranjički put E-1/F-1<br />
Vrgoračka G-2<br />
Vrh Kmana E-2<br />
Vrh Lučac D-3, K-3<br />
Vrh Visoke F-2<br />
Vrlička F-1<br />
Vrzov Dolac D-3, K-2/K-3<br />
Vukasovićeva D-2, J-2<br />
Vukovarska D-2/E-2, K-1<br />
Wash<strong>in</strong>gtonova D-2, K-1<br />
Zadarska G-1, I-2<br />
Zagorski put F-1/F-2/G-21<br />
Zagrebačka D-2, J-2/J-3<br />
Zbora narodne garde G-1/G-2<br />
Zlodr<strong>in</strong>a poljana D-3, J-3<br />
Zoranićeva D-2, I-1<br />
Zr<strong>in</strong>sko-Frankopanska C-2<br />
Zup<strong>in</strong>a F-2<br />
Zvizd<strong>in</strong>a J-3<br />
Žmovnička D-3/E-3<br />
Split In Your Pocket split.<strong>in</strong>yourpocket.com<br />
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Summer 2011<br />
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