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DIVING DESTINATIONS<br />

THE RED SEA OR NOT THE RED SEA<br />

THAT IS THE QUESTION<br />

Feature and Photography Paul and pamela Warwick<br />

Divers have so many diving destinations within<br />

easy reach of the UAE, so why choose the Red<br />

Sea? As most seasoned divers know, the Red<br />

Sea is one of the best dive areas in the world,<br />

with warm (minimum 26˚C), clear waters<br />

and an abundant marine life supported and<br />

nurtured by the geo-thermal heat, which also<br />

heavily influences the strength and direction of<br />

the currents. Sharm El Sheik, Marsa Al Salam,<br />

Dahab and Hurghada are all well known<br />

resorts which provide great shore diving and<br />

daily safaris to the more distant sites – but<br />

have you ever thought about a liveaboard –<br />

we did and it turned into a week long diving<br />

adventure.<br />

The trip was organised by Mick Smith, the<br />

owner of Dragon Divers in Protaras, Cyprus<br />

who took over the Emperor Superior (Gold<br />

Class) from Emperor Divers for the week.<br />

You don’t have to go through a dive centre as<br />

most companies will take individual bookings<br />

directly or through an active travel agent. Why<br />

Emperor and why Dragon Divers?<br />

• Well Dragon Divers because Pamela and I<br />

continued our training up to Master Scuba<br />

Diver (MSD) with Mick and I started my<br />

PADI professional training with him. We<br />

have lots of friends still in Cyprus who<br />

were on the trip. They also run a Red Sea<br />

trip annually.<br />

• There are lots of liveaboard companies<br />

operating from the Red Sea, providing<br />

more or less the same itineraries. Bottom<br />

line is, Emperor gave us the best deal on<br />

the itinerary which we were able to select<br />

because we had booked the entire boat.<br />

We received a fantastic quality of service.<br />

Our boat was large (38 metres), well laid out<br />

with wet and dry areas and masses of space<br />

on the dive deck and dive platform as well<br />

as two supporting Zodiacs. The cabins were<br />

spacious and twins in general, although a few<br />

of our single brethrens had to endure bunks,<br />

which is great except if you are in the top bunk<br />

and the boat is pitching, rolling and yawing all<br />

at the same time, which it did on a number of<br />

occasions during our trip!<br />

24 merry souls assembled in Hurghada on the<br />

Friday, arriving at the airport from different<br />

parts of the world and headed towards<br />

Emperor’s Marina base at the Hilton. Some<br />

of us had never met before, but we all had<br />

one thing in common – a love of diving. As<br />

all our divers were PADI Advanced and BSAC<br />

Ocean Divers and above, we only had two<br />

guides, Lina and Ahmed, both of whom were<br />

excellent and allowed us to dive with relative<br />

freedom. Ahmed in particular was extremely<br />

knowledgeable about all the dive sites and<br />

despite some “dodgy” weather, ensured we<br />

dived safely every day of the trip. Enriched<br />

Air (NITROX) was free to anyone with the<br />

prerequisite qualifications and we would<br />

recommend it to anyone thinking of taking a<br />

trip with Emperor. Everyone on our trip was<br />

qualified and it certainly helped with tiredness<br />

when you were fitting in 3 or 4 dives a day.<br />

Don’t forget your camera!<br />

With final kit checks, a couple of spares and a<br />

good night’s sleep, we set off on the Saturday<br />

morning of the itinerary to the “Famous Five”,<br />

which although planned, would be subject to<br />

weather, sea conditions and of course the<br />

mandatory activity risk assessment. We were<br />

looking forward to getting up to 22 dives done<br />

over 6 days (flying times permitting).<br />

THE DIVING<br />

Our general route was to take us north<br />

towards the Sinai Peninsula and the Ras<br />

Al Mohamed National Marine Park before<br />

heading South to The Brothers in the open<br />

sea and then north again back to Hurghada.<br />

DAY ONE. The first dive site was not far from<br />

Hurghada at Abu Al Nugar for a dive check<br />

before moving further north up to Bluff Point<br />

and The Barge.<br />

DAY TWO. This was “Wreck Day”, firstly<br />

on the Rosalie Moller a WWII wreck which<br />

was sunk almost at the same anchorage as<br />

the Thistlegorm, but two days later. Then the<br />

Kingston, a 19 th Century Sail/Steamer which<br />

sunk in 1881 and then the famous Thistlegorm.<br />

Thistlegorm. No trip to the North Red<br />

Sea would be complete without a trip to the<br />

Thistlegorm. It’s one of the top ten wreck<br />

dives in the world. Sitting between 17 and<br />

34 metres, it is an easy recreational dive. We<br />

arrived in the early afternoon and managed to<br />

get an afternoon dive, a night dive and an early<br />

morning dive in and we were almost the only<br />

boat there – the day boats had left to get back<br />

to their home ports and we left before they<br />

arrived back the next day. Amazing is not quite<br />

adequate enough to describe the dive, literally<br />

going back in history 70+ years and imagining<br />

this cargo laden vessel with motorcycles,<br />

trucks, cars, spares, ammunition and a<br />

locomotive, (yes a locomotive) all destined for<br />

British troops in Alexandria during the Second<br />

World War and all still intact, including tyres<br />

and naval artillery shells the size of small cars.<br />

DAY THREE. We went to the Ras Al Mohamed<br />

National Marine Park where we dived on reefs<br />

near Shark Island and Yolande Reef as well as<br />

72 DIVERS FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, SEPTEMBER 2013<br />

SEPTEMBER 2013, DIVERS FOR THE ENVIRONMENT 73

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