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Neil Martin didn’t have to fix his bike in the blacksmith’s forge, but he suffered quite enough on<br />
L’Etape du Tour…<br />
Nails on Toast<br />
Neil Martin<br />
WE DROVE INTO the outskirts<br />
of Tarbes through pouring<br />
rain. No need to hunt for the<br />
‘Depart‘ direction arrows – hordes of<br />
already-soaked riders were pedalling to the<br />
start through the 6 a.m. darkness. The<br />
British constabulary would have had a<br />
field-day with the light-less masses.<br />
I’d signed on effortlessly two days<br />
before: now the big day had finally arrived.<br />
A quick change in the Galaxy; au revoir to<br />
the crew with a view to seeing them<br />
somewhere on the final Col (you need a<br />
special pass to get on the climb, bagged at<br />
the signing-on) and off into the gloom to<br />
track down my start area.<br />
We all lined up in our designated side<br />
road; the countdown to the start could be<br />
heard on loudspeakers a few roads away;<br />
5,4,3,2,1 and......nothing. I had to wait for<br />
the 4148 riders in front of us to move<br />
before we could. Twenty minutes later we<br />
passed over the start transponder mat and<br />
were away, at a steady 25 mph. Initial preevent<br />
fears that it would be dangerous<br />
were soon dispelled as the thousands<br />
barrelled along with very little switching<br />
and a great deal of consideration for fellow<br />
riders.<br />
The first ravitaillement appeared to be<br />
somewhat chaotic.I made the choice to<br />
ride straight through. However, I did<br />
manage to grab a couple of bottles of<br />
Aquarel water from one of the many<br />
roadside helpers handing up drinks beyond<br />
the feed. By this time the rain had eased a<br />
little, just in time for the first climbs of the<br />
day: a combined 4th and 3rd cat (Tour<br />
values) that seemed to go on forever. A<br />
quick pose for the official Etape photographers<br />
either side of the road and over the<br />
top to begin what proved to be one of the<br />
fastest descents ever ridden. I interrupted<br />
my own descent to answer a major call of<br />
nature behind a hedge and then back into<br />
the fray. A few more drags and descents<br />
and then it really chucked it down along<br />
the valley.<br />
Col d’Aspin. A sharp right and we were<br />
on a fairly steady climb of 12 km using a<br />
maximum gear of 39/21; I was saving the<br />
23 for the brute to be negotiated later in<br />
the day. At the summit I ignored another<br />
even more chaotic feed station – just a<br />
brief stop to put on the gilet for the wet<br />
14km descent to St. Marie de Campan, the<br />
town at the foot of the Tourmalet, famous<br />
for the bloke who fixed his broken forks<br />
only to be penalised because a lad helped<br />
with the bellows in the forge. Nails on toast<br />
for breakfast too, no doubt.*<br />
An acute left and we’re on the 17km.<br />
Tourmalet with a warm sun and a tailwind<br />
to ease the agony. This is a monster of a<br />
Col: fairly easy of gradient for the first few<br />
k’s or so but then it kicks in to an average<br />
of 8 to 9 %. Doesn’t sound much but a<br />
major effort for a long time; the fastest I’ve<br />
ever climbed it is 1.15, a true backbreaker.<br />
The 23 came in to play for the 6-7mph<br />
grind of the last km. up to the feed at La<br />
Mongie ski station 5 kilometres from the<br />
summit. A stop for bars, water, sultanas by<br />
the fistful and an easing of the aching back<br />
readied the bod for the final lurch to the<br />
chilly summit at 2115 metres. On with the<br />
gilet again for what some claim to be the<br />
best descent in Europe; I’m with them on<br />
that one. I’ve descended the 18km this<br />
way quite a few times now, so knowing<br />
where I was going was a real bonus,<br />
especially on closed roads – and in the<br />
company of a couple of riders who<br />
obviously knew where they were going too<br />
a terminal velocity of 54mph was reached.<br />
The Tourmalet descends into Luz St.<br />
Saveur, a busy little town nestling in the<br />
valley that eventually leads to Lourdes after<br />
a further 30 kms. of descent. The Etape,<br />
however, swung left in the town , over a<br />
little blip to descend again to begin the<br />
final climb to the finish at the ski station of<br />
Luz Ardiden at an altitude of 1715 metres.<br />
This is where the backache really kicked in.<br />
By this time I had started to see some early<br />
start numbers<br />
which suggested<br />
either that I was<br />
doing a reasonable<br />
ride or that<br />
they were<br />
creeping. This is<br />
a hard climb,<br />
especially after<br />
85 damp miles.<br />
Approaching<br />
3km from the<br />
top I spotted the<br />
family parked at<br />
the roadside a<br />
few metres<br />
before the barriers dividing the road started<br />
, providing a safe lane to descend off the<br />
mountain while others are grinding their<br />
way up to the finish. Heavy rain started to<br />
fall again for my final 2 km, as did the<br />
temperature on the back of a freezing<br />
wind.<br />
Eventually I crossed the Arrivée transponder<br />
mat, a finisher’s gong was draped<br />
around my neck and I was hustled around<br />
the back of the changing tent to begin the<br />
descent against the now steady flow of<br />
finishers, back down to Maria and the kids.<br />
Fantastic! I’d done it; and in a not-toobad<br />
time of 6hrs 7 mins 53 secs for a Gold<br />
standard and 328th finisher. All this<br />
information is sent later in the form of a<br />
certificate to commemorate your participation,<br />
along with a sample of photos you<br />
can send for. The first finisher home was a<br />
Bulgarian living in France who has now<br />
ridden all nine Etapes and ‘won‘ three of<br />
them. Try to pick him out at the start next<br />
year.<br />
I’d certainly do it again but it would<br />
have to be ‘a good one ‘ i.e. a big stage in<br />
the Alps or similar. Popular opinion<br />
regarded this edition as one of the classics,<br />
despite the weather which apparently<br />
turned the bad side of evil on the<br />
Tourmalet for the later finishers.<br />
As a footnote: the same Tarbes–Luz<br />
Ardiden stage 148km. was won by the<br />
Euskatel Basque climber Robert Laseika in<br />
a time of 4hrs 24 mins. I wonder if he<br />
spent the whole of the last climb in the 23<br />
too? V<br />
Drawing: Pellos<br />
* Back in 1913 two commissaires were dropped off to supervise Eugene Christophe<br />
while he repaired his fork and make sure he didn’t break the rules. After an hour or<br />
so one of them complained of being hot and hungry. ‘You should be where I am,’<br />
Christophe said. ‘Chew a bit of this coal – there’s plenty.’<br />
<strong>Veteran</strong> Leaguer: Winter 2002 Page 21