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ISO 11930 – A Comparison to other Methods to ... - ResearchGate

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COSMETICS<br />

PRESERVATION<br />

they can be tested instead ore in addition<br />

<strong>to</strong> pathogenic species.<br />

The schülke KoKo test includes these microorganisms,<br />

selected using decades of<br />

experience from schülke’s support services<br />

<strong>to</strong> cosmetic producers through the<br />

scope of MQM (Microbiological Quality-<br />

Management). Only the schülke KoKo<br />

test completely fulfil recommendations<br />

of the SCCS Notes of Guidance.<br />

■ Cultivation of<br />

Test Microorganisms<br />

The cultivation of the test germs is comparable<br />

for all methods including the<br />

schülke KoKo test. Fig. 1 shows the procedure<br />

of single-strain cultivation on<br />

agar plates.<br />

Table 3 Microorganisms used for CTFA / M-4 Method for Preservation Testing of<br />

Eye Area Cosmetics<br />

■ Production of Inoculum<br />

For the production of an inoculum, microorganisms<br />

are washed off from the<br />

nutrient media. For the production of an<br />

inoculum, microorganisms are washed<br />

off from the nutrient media plates and<br />

adjusted <strong>to</strong> the required starting germ<br />

count by dilution. The inoculum is then<br />

directly used <strong>to</strong> inoculate the test samples<br />

according <strong>to</strong> <strong>ISO</strong> <strong>11930</strong>, Ph. Eur. 7<br />

and ASEAN. The CTFA tests accepts the<br />

use of either as well pure or mixed culture<br />

suspensions, the schülke KoKo test<br />

uses mixed culture suspensions (i.e. single<br />

cultivated microorganisms brought<br />

<strong>to</strong>gether in<strong>to</strong> a mixed suspension). To<br />

guarantee a constant composition of the<br />

mixed inoculum the mixed suspension is<br />

s<strong>to</strong>red for maximum of three days in a<br />

refrigera<strong>to</strong>r. A new inoculation suspension<br />

is prepared for each inoculation cycle.<br />

■ Inoculation of Samples<br />

The microorganism counts used and the<br />

quantity of the inoculum are demonstrated<br />

in Table 4.<br />

All tests have similar germ loads in the<br />

inoculated sample. The <strong>to</strong>tal germ count<br />

of the inoculum for the schülke KoKo<br />

test was slightly higher <strong>to</strong> ensure safe<br />

preservation <strong>to</strong> compensate for less clean<br />

Fig. 1 Cultivation of test germs for the schülke KoKo Test<br />

production facilities. As there is now the<br />

legal demand <strong>to</strong> produce cosmetic products<br />

according <strong>to</strong> <strong>ISO</strong> 22716 (Guidelines<br />

on Good Manufacturing Practices) (9),<br />

the germ count has recently been adapted<br />

bringing it in<strong>to</strong> line with the <strong>other</strong> test<br />

models.<br />

■ Criteria of Acceptance<br />

<strong>ISO</strong> <strong>11930</strong> (Table 5)<br />

If the formulation meets criteria A, the<br />

microbiological risk is considered <strong>to</strong> be<br />

<strong>to</strong>lerable (the cosmetic product is protected<br />

against microbial proliferation<br />

that may present a potential risk for the<br />

user) and the cosmetic product is deemed<br />

<strong>to</strong> meet the requirements of this International<br />

Standard without additional rationale<br />

(1).<br />

If the formulation meets criteria B, the<br />

microbiological risk analysis shall demonstrate<br />

the existence of control fac<strong>to</strong>rs<br />

not related <strong>to</strong> the formulation; for example,<br />

a protective package such as a<br />

pump provides a higher level of protection<br />

than a jar (see Annex D, <strong>ISO</strong> <strong>11930</strong>).<br />

46 SOFW-Journal | 138 | 7-2012

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