stones and pearls 2015

selection
stones and pearls
2015

ContentS
1
coloured
Gemstones
14 3.1/D21 4G’s Trading Corp.
16 3.1/E45 A G Color Inc.
18 3.0/C35 A. Hakimi & Sons
20 3.0/A05 Abouchar SA
22 3.1/A27 ALine GmbH
24 3.1/B13 Art Creations
132 3.1/F29 B.S.M. Diamonds Ltd.
26 3.1/B29 Casa dello Smeraldo Srl –
Sharma Group
28 3.1/F33 China Stone Co., Ltd.
134 3.1/C01 Circa
30 3.1/F11 Color Jewels, Inc.
32 3.1/A13 Constantin Wild
34 3.1/D29 Crown Color
140 3.0/E17 David & Sohn AG
36 3.0/B13 Diamrusa Ltd.
38 3.1/A25 Edigem Ltd.
40 3.0/D31 EMCO Gem Inc. |
Diamond Distributors Inc.
42 3.1/D43 Emil Weis Opals KG
44 3.1/A29 Emilio Gindraux
150 3.0/C31 Eshed Diam – Gemstar
152 3.1/C43 Euro Gems s.r.l
46 3.1/C41 Fai Dee Gems Co., Ltd.
48 3.1/D33 FEI
52 3.1/A09 Garaude SARL
54 3.1/E47 Gem Centre Rawat e.K.
160 3.0/E31 Gemtrade AG
56 3.0/A43 Gerhard Hahn GmbH
274 3.1/A33 Global Gems
58 3.1/F27 Glorious Gems Co., Ltd.
60 3.0/B09 Groh + Ripp
62 3.1/B33 Gustav Caesar GmbH
64 3.1/F41 Heeralal Chhaganlal Tank
66 3.0/A01 Horovitz & Totah S.A.
68 3.0/C33 Ijadi Gem, Inc.
70 3.1/F07 Jaipur Trading Co. Inc.
72 3.1/E25 Janson’s Import-Export oHG
74 3.1/D39 Joseph Gad Inc.
76 3.1/A19 Karl Faller e.K.
78 3.0/A09 Kothari Trading (HK) Ltd.
80 3.1/A39 Lim Gems Factory Co., Ltd.
82 3.1/E23 Marcel Poncet S.A.S.
50 3.1/C39 Michael Gad Emerald
84 3.0/D16 Napra Gems B.V.B.A.
86 3.1/D13 Neli Gems Corp.
88 3.1/A21 Nomad’s Co. Ltd.
90 3.0/D30 Noor Gems Japan Ltd.
92 3.0/D05 Paul Wild oHG
94 3.1/D01 Piat
96 3.1/F39 RMC Gems Thai Co., Ltd.
98 3.1/E07 Saboo Fine Jewels Co., Ltd.
100 3.1/E12 Sant Enterprises Co. Ltd.
102 3.1/B11 Sara Gem Corp.
104 3.1/F13 Shaun Gems International Ltd.
106 3.0/D33 Shwet Ratan Impex
108 3.1/B09 Takat Gems Co. Ltd.
110 3.1/E39 Tory Jewelry Company Limited
112 3.1/D07 Veerasak Gems Co., Ltd.
222 3.1/F15 Vinod Kotahwala Inc.
114 3.0/B21 Wild & Petsch GmbH
116 3.1/E19 Yavorskyy Co., Ltd.
2
Brilliant
Diamonds
124 3.0/D07 A.A. Rachminov Diamonds Ltd.
20 3.0/A05 Abouchar SA
126 3.1/E31 Ajay Diam SA
128 3.0/A13 Anan Anjamani Co. Ltd.
130 3.0/D11 Andre Messika Diamonds Ltd.
132 3.1/F29 B.S.M. Diamonds Ltd.
134 3.1/C01 Circa
136 3.0/A31 D.N. Diamonds 2007 Ltd.
138 3.1/E11 Dany Avlas Diamonds
140 3.0/E17 David & Sohn AG
142 3.0/B17 Dehres Ltd.
36 3.0/B13 Diamrusa Ltd.
144 3.0/D14 Diarough N.V.
146 3.1/E09 Dynamic International Inc.
148 3.1/B15 Elie Brilliant Gems
40 3.0/D31 EMCO Gem Inc. |
Diamond Distributors Inc.
150 3.0/C31 Eshed Diam – Gemstar
152 3.1/C43 Euro Gems s.r.l
154 3.1/E45 Galaxy USA Inc.
156 3.0/D15 Gembel European Sales NV
158 3.0/E05 Gemcut S.A. | M. Vainer Ltd.
160 3.0/E31 Gemtrade AG
162 3.1/F09 Gil Kimchi Diamonds Ltd.
164 3.0/B01 Glajz – THG Pte. Ltd.
68 3.0/C33 Ijadi Gem, Inc.
170 3.1/E17 Isaac Davidowits LLC
166 3.1/B43 J.R. Diam BVBA
168 3.0/E13 Jaros & Gasselstorfer
006 / Baselworld Selection

ContentS
78 3.0/A09 Kothari Trading (HK) Ltd.
172 3.1/B31 Kunming Trading Co.
174 3.1/B07 M.I.D. House of Diamonds Ltd.
176 3.1/E29 Manak Jewels, Inc.
178 3.0/B31 Mikisa Gems BVBA
180 3.0/D17 Nimesh Gem
182 3.1/F21 Norman Silverman Diamonds Inc.
184 3.0/D13 Novel Collection
186 3.0/D34 Optimum Diamonds LLC
188 3.1/B25 Prijems Inc.
190 3.1/E43 Prompt Gem Importers Inc.
192 3.0/B25 Rachminov Diamonds 1891 Ltd.
194 3.1/F25 Rainbow Ratan Co. Inc.
196 3.0/D25 Ramagem Srl
198 3.1/D17 Rawat Gems LLC
200 3.0/E09 Rio Diamonds
202 3.0/E27 Rose Creation (HK)
204 3.0/D23 Rosy Blue NV
206 3.1/B21 Royal Gem Bvba
304 3.1/B39 Royal India USA Inc.
208 3.1/B27 S.E. Barbi Diamonds Ltd.
210 3.0/A21 Scarselli Diamonds Inc.
212 3.0/D12 Sparkling Stones DMCC
214 3.0/D27 SRS Diamonds Bvba
216 3.0/B01 Swissdiam Genève SA
218 3.0/D29 Taché
108 3.1/B09 Takat Gems Co. Ltd.
220 3.1/E15 Venus Jewel
222 3.1/F15 Vinod Kotahwala Inc.
224 3.1/F17 Voegeli & Wirz AG/SA
226 3.0/E11 Vulcan and Co.
228 3.0/B32 Yondor Diamonds Ltd
3
beautiful
pearls
236 3.1/D25 Alain Boite S.A.S
238 3.1/D41 Australia Pearls
134 3.1/C01 Circa
240 3.1/F23 F. Cozzolino Pearling S.N.C.
48 3.1/D33 FEI
66 3.0/A01 Horovitz & Totah S.A.
242 3.1/N02 London Pearl Limited
244 3.1/A41 Merugiri Gems DMCC
300 3.1/N08 ProVockative Gems, Inc.
246 3.0/E25 Shanghai Gems S.A.
248 3.1/A05 Swiss Pearls
4
Coveted
Collectibles
256 3.0/D01 Andrew Cohen SA |
The DeYoung Collection
258 3.1/D09 Bijan & Co. Inc.
260 3.0/D19 Busatti Milano S.r.l.
262 3.0/B30 Carlo Luca della Quercia srl.
134 3.1/C01 Circa
264 3.1/E33 Diacolor India Pvt. Ltd.
38 3.1/A25 Edigem Ltd.
266 3.0/C03 Ernst Färber Munich
268 3.1/E41 Euro Antique Inc.
270 3.0/B03 Faerber Collection
272 3.0/D09 G. Torroni S.A.
54 3.1/E47 Gem Centre Rawat e.K.
274 3.1/A33 Global Gems
276 3.1/E27 Henn GmbH
278 3.1/B01 Herbert Klein oHG
280 3.1/E21 Heritage Gems
282 3.1/B23 KGK Jewellery (HK) Ltd. |
Entice
284 3.1/A23 Kuhn GmbH & Co. KG
286 3.1/F45 La Reina Collection
288 3.0/E01 Larengregor S.A.
290 3.0/A17 Manuel Bouvier
292 3.1/A07 Marc H Princ S.A.
294 3.1/B19 Michael Youssoufian Ltd.
296 3.1/B41 Oriental Gemco
298 3.1/B17 Pioneer Gems
300 3.1/N08 ProVockative Gems, Inc.
302 3.1/B45 Royal Gems & Arts
304 3.1/B39 Royal India USA Inc.
306 3.1/A31 Semi Gems Inc.
308 3.1/A17 Uhl Schmuck & Edelsteine
310 3.0/A25 Yafa Jewelry Inc.
312 3.0/D21 Zebrak
StoneS & PEARLS / 007

008 / Baselworld Selection

coloured
Gemstones
At BASELWORLD you can SEE the concentrated
BEAuty of nature in EAch cOLOur imaginABLE, BE it the fiery
RED of rubies, the sparkling BLueish gREEn of the finest
pARAiba tourmalines OR the tempting gREEn of emERALDS –
WHATEVER YOU DESIRE, YOU CAN finD thE MAtching STONE HERE.
stones & PEARLS / 009

Abouchar SA 3.0 / A05
Made-to-Measure
Stones
Abouchar Sa 3.0 / A05
What is your company’s
specialist field?
Charles Abouchar: Since
Abouchar purchased the
Diastar company, we have
specialised in small calibrated
stones for rubies, all colours of sapphires,
emeralds and a wide range of semi-precious stones
essentially for pavé work.
Do you also offer diamonds?
We offer calibrated stones, centrepieces, pairs of
stones and traditional cuts. We also produce
‘made-to-measure’ stones because we work with
designers, manufacturers, jewellery makers and
watchmakers.
You specialise in precision cuts, right?
Today we are one of the few companies capable
of producing high-precision cuts of stones with a
diameter of 0.5 mm and above. We also offer our
services to the watchmaking industry thanks to a
stone-cutting centre in Asia which works exclusively
with us. And we collaborate with a stone-cutting
centre in Brazil for emeralds.
Headquarters Abouchar SA, Rue du Marché 18, Case postale 3003, 1211 Geneva
3, Switzerland Established 1979 Specialities Precious stones and semi-precious
stones Head Charles Abouchar, CEO Contact Marilou Zervos, Rachel Bresson,
info@aboucharsa.ch, Tel: +41 22 318 6655, Fax: +41 22 310 7190
Do you apply any specific features to your
centrepiece stones?
When it comes to the centrepieces, Abouchar SA is
renowned in particular for its selection of spinels. But
we also offer stones in almost every colour of the
rainbow with a wide range of stones between 2 and
20 carats and above, covering the entire range of
precious and fine stones from aquamarine to zoisite.
Do you always work as part of a joint venture with
Opalinda?
We established ourselves on the opal market with
Australian opals initially. From 2013, we entered into
a ‘joint venture’ with Opalinda and its own opal
cutting plant in Addis Ababa.
01 Brazilian emeralds
02 Royal blue sapphires
01
020 / bASelworld Selection

3.0 / A05 Abouchar SA
02
“We offer calibrated
stones, centrepieces,
pairs of stones and
traditional cuts.”
StoneS & PEArlS / 021

Constantin wild 3.1 / A13
01
W
GEMS.TRUST.
WILD
ConsTAntin wild 3.1 / A13
Constantin Wild: the gemstone connoisseur from Idar-Oberstein
is known all over the world for his exclusive stones. Visitors to
this year’s Baselworld will have the opportunity to see why:
endless facets, fascinating colours and very high quality. A
radiant orange imperial topaz for example, an absolute top-class
specimen of over 30 carats. Alongside that heavyweight,
Constantin Wild’s treasure chamber is filled with many other
rarities – Paraiba tourmaline, peridot, imperial topaz and spinel:
“My stones are especially well suited to extravagant jewellery.
And particularly large stones are impressive eye-catchers as
solitaires,” says Wild, who has been familiar with the market for
more than 30 years. As the owner of a family enterprise in its
fourth generation, Wild selects all his stones personally. This
individual and personal style is the recipe for the success of the
Constantin Wild label: “Each stone is absolutely individual. Just
like the desires and demands of those who are on the lookout for
gemstones, they follow the trend towards colour which has been
holding sway for some years,” Wild adds. Wild’s stones are ‘more
than just rare’. And for a long time now, there have not only been
aesthetic reasons for wishing to possess these extravagant
splashes of colour. “Many people realise that high-quality stones
are extremely rare and very unique. And that makes them a very
special, glittering investment”, says the qualified gemologist.
This year too, Constantin Wild is looking forward to an exciting
time at Basel: “I shall be happy to welcome you to our stand and
show you some of the most beautiful treasures of this Earth.”
032 / Baselworld Selection

3.1 / A13 Constantin wild
02
01 Red Spinel, oval, Ruby, cushion-shaped,
Pinkish-Orange Imperial Topaz, cushionshaped,
Pinkish-Reddish-Orange Imperial
Topaz, pear-shaped
02 Greenish-Yellow Canary Tourmaline,
cushion-shaped, Lemon Yellow Canary
Tourmaline, oval, Peridot, cushion-shaped,
Neon Blue Paraiba Tourmaline, oval
03 Constantin Wild, gemstone
connoisseur, holding a 34 cts.
cushion-shaped Imperial Topaz
Headquarters Constantin Wild, Hauptstraße 103, 55743 Idar-Oberstein, Germany
Brands Constantin Wild Established 1847 Specialities The finest coloured
gems Head Constantin Wild, CEO Contact firstcontact@constantinwild.com,
www.constantinwild.com, Tel: +49 6781 94500, Fax: +49 6781 945050
03
stones & Pearls / 033

Groh + RiPP 3.0 / B09
The Idar-Oberstein company Groh + Ripp
offers a real treasure trove of rare coloured
gemstones. Nicole Ripp, a gemmologist and
specialist in coloured gemstones within the
family business, shares some of the secrets
of her rainbow-coloured world with us.
What is so fascinating about coloured
gemstones?
Nicole Ripp: I am passionate about their
beauty. For me, they are a genuine,
unadulterated wonder of nature. The diversity
and beauty of coloured stones is sometimes
so powerful that they even seem unreal to
me as a professional! A truly intoxicating
array of colour.
LThe coloUrs of real
luxury
Some gemstones initially appear very
non-descript…
As a lover of exquisite stones, I am always
surprised by the beauty our team manages to
extract from seemingly plain stones. But we
do not leave anything to chance: we search
the world for the most beautiful gemstones
and these are then given the perfect cut at
our workshop in Idar-Oberstein to make
them sparkle. We want our work to bring a
sparkle to the eyes of our customers. This is
only possible with exceptional and flawless
gemstones of a perfect quality that cannot
be found elsewhere.
Headquarters Groh + Ripp oHG, Tiefensteiner Straße 322A, 55743 Idar-
Oberstein, Germany Specialities Finest precious coloured stones, jewellery
stones, watch dials, synthetic sapphires for watch glasses, technical products in
precious gemstones Head Bernd Willi Ripp, CEO Contact info@groh-ripp.de,
www.groh-ripp.de, Tel: +49 6781 935 00, Fax: +49 6781 935 050
01
01 Nicole Ripp, head of the coloured
gemstone department at Groh + Ripp oHG
02 Colombian emerald 03 Champagne
coloured sapphire 04 Paraiba tourmaline
GROH + RIPP 3.0 / B09
How would you assess the market conditions
for these colourful luxury goods?
There is currently a very high level of interest
in naturally coloured, high quality and
exceptional gemstones. They represent real
luxury. Jewellers are selling high quality
items again – and not just in the Far East.
Sets of rare stones are highly sought-after
across the world. The top 3 list of the most
‘in-demand’ gemstones is headed by Paraiba
tourmaline. This is followed by emeralds in
second and sapphires in third place. However,
many deposits have been exhausted and
yields are falling. There is
less and less processable
material available. Since
demand is outstripping
supply, prices are continuing
to increase. Last year,
there was even a doublefigure
increase in prices.
And how do you find these rare items?
Direct and personal relations with mine
operators and raw stone suppliers across the
world enable us to acquire these rare
coloured stones which are virtually impossible
to acquire elsewhere on the global
market. We also have a store of uncut stones
which has been developed over the decades.
We have a wide range of over 100 different
stones available. And we are particularly well
positioned to offer Paraiba tourmalines,
emeralds, sapphires, rubies, tsavorites and
tanzanites.
060 / Baselworld Selection

3.0 / B09 GRoh + RiPP
02
“FOR
ME, they
are a genuine,
UNADULTERATED
WONDER of
NATURE.”
03
04
stoNes & PeaRls / 061

01 Exceptional rough This
232.08 cts. D colour Type II
diamond of exceptional size
and clarity was unearthed in
September at the Cullinan
mine (South Africa), the
same mine where the world’s
biggest ever diamond was
found – the 3,106-carat
Cullinan diamond in 1905.
The diamond is expected to
be sold in the second quarter of
2015 at more than $10million
118 / Baselworld Selection

Brilliant
Diamonds
The diamond is the undoubted king of the
gemSTones. Nothing tops its brillIAnce, its fire, its durabilITy
or its luxurious appeal. THIS IS WHAT MAkeS the diamond the
perfeCT symbol of love and the ideal gift thAT will never
go out of fAShion.
stones & Pearls / 119

A.A. Rachminov Diamonds Ltd. 3.0 / D07
01
02
124 / BaselwoRLD Selection

3.0 / D07 A.A. Rachminov Diamonds Ltd.
DHIGH-QUALITY
DIAMONDS
A.A. RACHMInov DIAMOnDS Ltd. 3.0 / D07
A.A. Rachminov is one of the
world’s most prestigious diamond
experts. The company
was founded in 2000 by Ori
and Mati Rachminov, a second
generation of an established
family in the diamond business.
Over the last decade, A.A. Rachminov has
been ranked among ten leading diamond
exporters Israel’s. A.A. Rachminov Diamond’s
headquarters are in Israel, with affiliates in
key global diamond centres including
Belgium, Hong Kong, China (Shanghai),
Thailand, and will soon be launching a new
branch in Japan.
The company’s global orientation enable it to
accommodate various cultures, requirements
and special requests typical of each country.
A.A. Rachminov serves hundreds of clients
worldwide, both large franchises and
independent shops, including many of the
world’s most exclusive jewellery brands.
It specialises in high-quality, perfectly cut
diamonds, carrying a large and diverse
supply of white as well as fancy coloured
diamonds in all sizes and shapes, in addition to
perfectly matched pairs and layouts to
accommodate its customers’ needs.
A.A. Rachminov provides a variety of services,
from investment consulting, inventory feeds,
events support, diamond re-cutting and
certification to global shipping.
Headquarters A.A. Rachminov Diamonds Ltd., Hayahalom Building, 3rd
Floor, Room 374, 3 Jabutinsky Street, Ramat Gan 52520, Israel
Specialities Large and rare diamonds Contact emily@aarachminov.com,
www.aarachminov.com, Tel: +972 3 613 05 25, Fax: +972 3 613 0527
SET
APART by
PERFECTION.
03
stones & PEARLS / 125

Vinod Kotahwala Inc. 3.1 / F15
01
A Legacy of Gem
Expertise
Vinod KotahWAla Inc. 3.1 / F15
Vinod Kotahwala Inc., established in 1971 in New
York City, is a family gemstone business whose
global success is built on experience in the gem
industry extending back five generations. The
Kotahwala family’s involvement in gems began in
Jaipur, India, known as the “pink city,” for its
characteristic pink architecture. The city has also
long been one of the coloured stone cutting capitals
of the world, so “naturally, many families who
originated in the ‘pink city’ are involved in the
jewellery and gemstone market in some way even
today,” notes company CEO Vinod Kotahwala.
The company’s specialities include certified
diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls, and especially
emeralds. Rajasthan, the state where Jaipur is located,
was once a major source of emeralds and emerald
cutting. It was there that the Kotahwala family first
acquired and imported emerald rough from South
America. Today, the US company is one of the oldest
dealers in Colombian emeralds, says Kotahwala. The
clientele of the family-run business company ranges
from small shops to some of the largest jewellery
houses. Regardless of size, however, thanks to its
generations of history in gems “we use our expertise
to get the best price and service for our clients,” says
Kotahwala. In Colombian emeralds, for example, which
have become very popular and increasingly rare in
recent years, “our experience in the market has benefited
our clients by finding great price points for material.
“We can manage competitive pricing for our clients
by knowing what the status of the market is, thanks
to our communications on all levels of the trade, from
the mine to the end retailer,” notes Kotahwala.
“The biggest asset of our family heritage is our
clients’ trust, proven by experience, that we offer the
best material for the best price.”
222 / Baselworld Selection

3.1 / F15 Vinod Kotahwala Inc.
“The
biggest
asset of
our family
heritage
is trust.”
Headquarters Vinod Kotahwala Inc., 10 West 46th Street, 7th Floor, New York, NY
10036, USA Established 1971 Specialities Colombian emeralds, certified diamonds
Head Vinod Kotahwala, CEO Contact info@vinodkotahwala.com, vinodkotahwala.com,
Tel: +1 212 869 9407, Fax: +1 212 382 3309
01 Assorted round
and fancy cut brown
diamonds of one carat
and above
stones & Pearls / 223

Diarough N.V. 3.0 / D14
the great
joy is to find
PerFeCt
for
01
LOYALTY AND LONG-LASTING
RELATIONSHIPS
DIAROUGH N.V. 3.0 / D14
CU
Since Mahendra Parikh established Diarough in
1975, the company has become one of the most
influential in the world, cutting and polishing
diamonds in India, Thailand, Botswana and South
Africa, and sourcing rough diamonds from all major
international mining companies. Today, CEO Nishit
Parikh, son of Mahendra Parikh, ensures that the vertically
integrated company has a dynamic presence
throughout the pipeline and a comprehensive grasp
of the market, with offices in eleven countries.
What is the speciality of the company?
Nishit Parikh: One of our specialties is natural fancy
coloured diamonds, while another is colourless
diamonds from 0.001 carats to 5 carats, and of
course both commercial and high-end diamonds.
What is the best part about being in this business?
For me, the best part is the nature of doing business
within the diamond industry. This business is not
about numbers and biggest profits. It is also about
loyalty and long-lasting relationships, and business
relationships that turn into real friendships.
What are the possibilities in this industry?
In my opinion the on-going growth in technologies. If
you look back, the diamond business used to be about
a gut feeling, knowledge of people and the experience
they had. Now, almost every day we are improving
because of technology, such as 3D scanners, which
helps us determine the maximum we can get out of
one rough stone. And the greatest joy is to find the
perfect stone for our customers!
144 / BaSELWorLD SELECTioN

3.0 / D14 Diarough N.V.
est
the
stone
our
02
STOMERS.
01 Colourless diamonds in the
range from 0.001 cts. to 5 cts.
are amongst the specialities of
Diarough 02 Due
to Diarough’s work
with 3D scanners,
the maximum of
each rough can be
determined with
great precision
Headquarters Diarough N.V., Hoveniersstraat 30, 2018 Antwerp, Belgium
Established 1975 Specialities Exceptionally well cut diamonds in ranges that
meet every requirement from 0.001 cts. to 15 cts. Head Nishit Parikh, CEO
Contact info@diarough.com, www.diarough.com, Tel: +323 234 2424,
Fax: +323 234 3931
STONES & PEarLS / 145

Beautiful
Pearls
Deep down in the dark sea, well-hiDDen under
the shell of unimposing oysters, evolve the mystical,
lustrous treasures. It is their natural origin that
makes each pearl, WHETHER perfectly round, oval,
coin or baroque shaped, an individual.
230 / Baselworld Selection

stones & Pearls / 231

LA PEREGRINA
SEDUCING FOR
CENTURIES
LA PEREGRINA IS ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS
NATURAL PEARLS IN HISTORY – AND WAS
CERTAINLY A GOOD INVESTMENT FOR ALL ITS
OWNERS, INCLUDING LIZ TAYLOR.
It was found during the 16th century by a slave from the Gulf of Panama.
The unique 203.84 grain pearl was given to Philip II of Spain who then
presented it to his future wife, Marie Tudor, Queen of England. The pearl
was set in a brooch which could be transformed into a pendant and was
returned to the Spanish crown following the death of Marie Tudor in
1558. In 1808, La Peregrina was taken to France by Napoleon I who
gave it to his nephew, the future Napoleon III. While in exile in England,
he then sold it to the Hamilton family who owned it until 1969 when it
was purchased by Richard Burton. Liz Taylor’s husband purchased the
pearl at auction for 37,000 dollars and then had the pearl set in an
exceptional necklace by Cartier decorated with diamonds, pearls and
rubies. It was then sold in this form at Christie’s in 2011. From Marie
Stuart to Liz Taylor, La Peregrina has been seducing sophisticated
women for five centuries.
THE GOLD PEARL,
A TREASURE OF NATURE
This incredible pearl is produced by golden-lip
Pinctada Maxima oysters (which can grow up
to 30 cm) and was fi rst created as a cultured
pearl during the 1950s in Burma. These pearls
are particularly captivating due to their natural
golden colour and have been widely produced
in the Philippines and Indonesia. Alain Boite
(3.1, D25) presented some 15 mm unique
heart-shaped pearls at Baselworld 2013 – a
demonstration of real technical prowess in the
cultured pearl industry.
232 / BASELWORLD SELECTION

BASELWORLD’S
BEAUTIES
THERE IS PROBABLY NO BETTER PLACE TO SEE THE
MAGNIFICENT TREASURES OF THE SEA THAN BASELWORLD:
MANY EXHIBITORS BRING THEIR RAREST, BIGGEST AND MOST
BEAUTIFUL PEARLS TO THE SHOW. SUCH AS THESE THREE
EXAMPLES THAT ARE WORTH MORE THAN JUST A LOOK.
WHITE SOUTH
SEA PEARLS
THE RETURN OF
THE NATURAL PEARL
The South Seas are renowned for their large
Pinctada Maxima oysters. South Sea pearls are
cultivated over a large area which extends from
Australia to Indonesia. The large pearls (13 mm
on average) are renowned for their silvery white
colour. Pinella Autore and Jeff Lassauvageux
from Australia Pearls (3.1, D41) remember
seeing an exceptionally large and perfectly
round pearl of 22.68 mm. These kinds of pearls
are particularly rare and can easily reach prices
of 100,000 dollars.
Natural pearls are the product of nature’s magic.
Today, prices for natural pearls are soaring
and the natural pearl market is regaining its
signifi cance. The Shanghai Gems company
(3.0, E25) notes that it can take 10,000 shells
to fi nd a single pearl. An exceptional 50 carat
(18.5 mm) Melo pearl with yellow and orangey
tones can even reach 180,000 euros. Another
natural pearl, the Conch pearl, impressed some
of the big jewellery makers such as JAR when
it was last exhibited at the MET in New York.
STONES & PEARLS / 233

F. Cozzolino Pearling S.N.C. 3.1 / F23
01
240 / Baselworld Selection

3.1 / F23 F. Cozzolino Pearling S.N.C.
02
O
The World is
their Oyster
F. CozzOLINO PEARLING S.N.C. 3.1 / F23
Is it true that by spending
time with the Akoya
pearl suppliers you
learned Japanese?
Raimondo Cozzolino:
When I’d just joined the
company, in 2012, I got
an internship on a Kobe farm thanks to my
father. I was the only foreigner among 40
Japanese, with whom I shared not only the
working day, but also shabu shabu dinners,
saké, their way of life and so on. To learn to
speak a little of their language was also a
sign of respect for their culture, but I still
have a lot to learn.
Headquarters F. Cozzolino Pearling S.N.C, Centro Orafo ”Oromare” SP 22 Km 1,
750, 81025 Marcianise (CE), Italy Brands F. Cozzolino Pearling
Established 1955 Specialities Akoya Japanese pearls, South Sea pearls,
Tahitian pearls Head Raimondo Cozzolino, CEO Contact info@fcpearling.com,
www.fcpearling.com, Tel: +39 082 3164 5015, Fax: +39 082 3164 5029
03
01 Selection of Japanese Akoya pearls
02 Necklace of white South Sea pearls,
Golden South Sea and Tahitian pearls
03 Francesco Cozzolino, founder of
F. Cozzolino Pearling
Do you often go back to Kobe?
I go to Kobe and Ise at least five times a year.
But my work is increasingly tied to travel:
China, Hong Kong, Singapore, Indonesia, the
Far East, Europe, UAE.
Has taste also become globalised or does
each nation prefer different pearls?
Some trends are generalised. For example,
there is an upturn in demand for white Australian
pearls, and also for Akoyas, but they
aren’t easy to get hold of. Fortunately we’re
always among the first to arrive on the spot
after the harvest. But there are also local
preferences, like a particular Eastern penchant
for the Golden South Sea, and the
boom for jewellery in pearls and diamonds.
We only deal in pearls though.
Your father recently retired from the
company. When he founded it, the world
was completely different…
Hats off to him! At 75 he is still an
invaluable source of advice. Of course the
market has changed: in the 1950s and
1960s all his customers were family-run
Italian companies. Today the world is our
oyster. We’re already able to deliver almost
everywhere in 36–48 hours, but I’m
pondering the opening of an office in a
strategic location such as London for the
distribution of Akoya pearls.
StoneS & PearlS / 241

250 / Baselworld Selection

Coveted
Collectibles
It is wearable history: Antique jewellery shows how style,
aesthEtics and craftsmanship have changed and evolved
over the centuries. On dIsplay at Baselworld: tImeless Classics
from renowned jewellery Houses as well as contemporaRy
Works of art that will surely make their own hIstory.
Prepare to be amazed!
stones & PEARLS / 251

BUTTERFLY
When we meet a butterfl y, we hope that it will choose
us to break its fl ight. There is no escape from its subtle
seduction. This is why they are always present in
Busatti Milano’s (3.0, D19) collections, depicted with a
sure, sublime hand, using colours and materials such
as basalt that are rarely found in jewellery.
OWL
“I don’t know why, but owls have turned out to be
fashionable birds,” says Susanne Schuler of
Gebrüder Kuhn (3.1, A23), laughing. The company,
known for highest precision in mass production as
well as for fine engravings, has had owls made from
natural agate in its product range for a long time,
but when Susanne Schuler placed one of them in a
display window at Baselworld two years ago, the
enquiries for these particular birds grew and grew.
LION
This magnifi cent antique lion brooch is part of a group of
animal-themed antique pearl jewellery available at
Zebrak (3.0, D21). The main body is formed by a
baroque natural pearl set in a gold and old cut diamond
surround, and fi nished with cabochon ruby eyes. The
head of the lion opens to reveal a secret
compartment where perhaps a
deadly poison was once
stowed.
252 / BASELWORLD SELECTION

HORSE
The ten engravers in the workshop of the Idar-
Oberstein based company Henn (3.1, E27) have
access to the most exclusive materials that Mother
Earth provides: a broad variety of gold, diamonds and
coloured gemstones. And each of them knows how to
treat them: with respect, appreciation and highest
degree of craftmanship. Thus they create pieces like this
head of a horse carved from a ruby. Some say that these
are true works of art. And we agree.
POLAR BEAR
The work of Stefan Klein, Managing Director of Herbert
Klein (3.1, B01) often begins in a zoo or in a library. With
great passion and a fine eye for detail, he studies the
anatomy and the behaviour of the animals he wants
to recreate from gemstones. Only when he is
fully aware of each muscle, each line in
the fur and each tiny facial expression,
can he finally cut them into stone. The
results are breathtakingly realistic, as
you can see from this polar bear.
ANIMAL
COLLECTIVE
ANIMALS ARE A CONSTANT SOURCE OF FASCINATION AND INSPIRATION
FOR GOLDSMITHS AND JEWELLERY DESIGNERS. FROM THE INFINITELY
SMALL TO THE REMARKABLY LARGE, THE CHOICE OF ANIMALS AND
CREATURES ECHOES THE REPERTOIRE OF HUMAN PASSIONS.
STONES & PEARLS / 253

Busatti Milano S.r.l. 3.0 / D19
P
One Family,
One Passion
Busatti Milano S.R.L. 3.0 / D19
“In the creation of unique pieces we’re so
accustomed to giving it our all that I
thought there was nothing more to
achieve. I was mistaken because the
jewellery we’re showing this year is even
better. We got great results even in the
non-visible parts, which are more
elegant thanks to à jour processes in
the best goldsmithing tradition.” David
Busatti expresses the
passion of a historic Milanese
family of jewellers which,
thanks to its creative talent
and joint projects with top
Italian goldsmiths, makes
unique masterpieces that
are known as much for their
style as their manufacturing quality. Now
in its third generation, the Busatti family
has introduced materials such as
titanium, ceramics and basalt fibre to its
high jewellery, requiring rare technological
know-how but offering versatility and
lightness. Indeed, it would be impossible
to imagine some of the beautiful necklaces,
offered in fabulous sizes and colours, if
the gold and diamonds were not
accompanied by the incredible lightness
of titanium and the versatility of basalt.
“Customers appreciate our ability to find a
unique stone and design surprising,
inimitable jewellery around it, and they
know that behind the scenes there’s a
continuous research process,” adds
Busatti. “Basically our creations aren’t just
the result of years of study, but also of the
innate creativity that is Italy’s best quality.
So we decided that each jewel must be
made here, where inspiration is fuelled
by the beauty of the nature and
architectural masterpieces that we have
in front of our eyes every day and which
influence our taste almost without us
realising it.” Busatti jewellery is sold in the
United States, the Middle East and many
other countries.
Headquarters Busatti Milano S.r.l, Via dei Piatti, 1, 20123 Milano, Italy
Brands Busatti Milano Established 1947 Specialities Haute couture
jewellery Contact info@busattimilano.com, www.busattimilano.com,
Tel: +39 02 8699 6064, Fax: +39 02 8645 2055
01
01 The third generation of Busatti:
(from the left) Simone, Andrea, Luca, Lalla,
Davide 02 Basalt and gold rings with
fancy and brilliant cut diamonds
260 / Baselworld Selection

3.0 / D19 Busatti Milano S.r.l.
“I just didn’t
think it was possible
to get any better,
but we did.”
02
stones & Pearls / 261

herbert Klein OHG 3.1 / b01
Between
gemmology And
zoology
HeRBert Klein OHG 3.1 / B01
The stand of the family business Herbert
Klein of Idar-Oberstein will once again be
one of the biggest and most exceptional
attractions in Hall 3 this year. The items
on display here are very surprising: lifelike
polar bears, crocodiles, rhinos and
monkeys can be admired here among the
numerous other plants and animals.
These unique objects were created by
Stefan Klein who manages the company
together with his sister Gabriele.
“I simply
free the
animal
from the stone.”
01
Headquarters Herbert Klein oHG, Richard-Wagner-Str. 26, 55743
Idar-Oberstein, Germany Established 1946 Specialities Fine
gemstone carvings Head Gabriele Klein, Stefan Klein, Managing
Directors Contact info@herbert-klein.de, www.herbert-klein.de,
Tel: +49 6781 435 56, Fax: +49 6781 460 15
“I simply free the animal from the stone,”
he says of his work, laughing. The work
requires good observation skills, a high
level of dexterity and plenty of strength.
Before he starts engraving, he studies the
animal he wants to depict in detail and
familiarises himself with all the details. He
then incorporates these details into his
filigree and challenging work. He has to
accurately lift the heavy mass time and
again to apply his fine structures. “As you
can imagine, my arms really hurt by the
evening!” he says.
Herbert Klein also offers flowers made
from high quality gemstones such as
tourmaline, tanzanite and rubellite. As
with the animal sculptures, the highest of
standards are applied in terms of the
material quality and processing.
01 Brother and sister, Stefan and
Gabriele Klein, Managing Directors of
Herbert Klein
02 Lifelike monkey sculpture made out
of black Obsidiane
278 / Baselworld Selection

3.1 / b01 Herbert Klein OHG
02
stOnes & Pearls / 279