Heavy Duty Balanced Opposed Compressors - Ariel Corporation

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Section 4 Part Replacement For Models: JGH:E:K:T 5. Remove chain adjustment cap capscrews. Turn the cap to loosen the chain and slip it off the crankshaft sprocket. 6. Remove capscrews from bearing caps. Pull caps straight up to prevent damage to the dowel fit. If cap is tight, use a bearing cap puller as illustrated. 7. Before removing the crankshaft, prepare wooden saddles with sides high enough to prevent the webs or oil slinger from touching the floor to store the crankshaft during maintenance - even if for only a short time. Also, protect the crankshaft from above so dropped tools or equipment cannot mar pin and journal surfaces. 8. Turn the crankshaft so that sling lifting points are above the shaft center of gravity to prevent rotation when lifted. Lift straight up with the crankshaft ends parallel to the frame. The crankshaft weight requires two men and a crane or lift to safely remove it. Use appropriate sized nylon slings to prevent marring the crankshaft running surface. CAUTION: Lifting the crankcase may cause the shaft to bind and damage it. Crank Pins NOTE: Lower half bearing shells sometimes stick to the shaft journals. After lifting the Counterweights shaft about ¼ inch (6mm) clear of the saddles, verify the lower half bearing shells FIGURE 4-38 Crankshaft remain on the saddles. If not, tap them back onto the saddles before lifting the shaft further. 9. While one person raises the crane very slowly, the second person must grasp the crankshaft at the drive end with one hand on the counterweight or one of the throws and the other on the shaft end to keep the crankshaft level. Wear clean gloves for a good grip, to avoid cuts from the slinger, and to avoid marring the running surface. As the shaft slowly raises, lift the drive and auxiliary ends at the same rate. Carefully guide the crankshaft to avoid marring its surfaces. Oil Slinger Removal Although the slinger should last indefinitely with proper care, it may become nicked. To replace it, suspend the crankshaft as detailed in Crankshaft Removal and heat the slinger until it glows yellow (about 400°F or 204°C). When it expands, it should fall off by itself. DO NOT TOUCH HOT SUR- FACES WITHOUT PROPER PROTECTION. Oil Slinger Installation Turn 5/8-11 UNC nut to jack bearing cap straight up. Drill 11/16” (18mm) hole 11” (28cm) Long 5/ 8-11 UNC Threaded Rod 5/8-11 UNC Lock Nut 5/8-11 UNC Puller Hole Crankshaft FIGURE 4-37 Main Bearing Cap Puller Oil Slinger Main Bearing Journals 20-1/2” (52cm) Long Steel Bar Put a minimum ½-inch (13mm) diameter rod through the slinger. Do not mar slinger surfaces, and be careful of its sharp outer edge. Suspend the slinger and heat it with a small torch. When it glows yellow (about 400°F or 204°C), slip it over the drive end of the crankshaft. Hold the slinger in place with high temperature gloves or two pieces of clean wood. Rotate it slightly to ensure PAGE 4-32 3/11 Drive End Sprocket
For Models: JGH:E:K:T Section 4 Part Replacement squareness, until it cools enough to shrink onto the crankshaft. DO NOT TOUCH HOT SURFACES WITHOUT PROPER PROTECTION. Chain Sprocket Removal Examine the sprocket carefully for wear. Sprockets operating for five years or more may require replacement. Drill a hole in the sprocket hub parallel to the shaft centerline and big enough to remove most of the hub cross section (see Fig. 4-39). DO NOT touch shaft with drill. Mark the drill with tape to avoid drilling through the sprocket and into the crankshaft face. The hole relieves most of the shrink, and a few radial strikes with a hammer and chisel opens the sprocket enough for easy removal. Chain Sprocket Installation Hit here with chisel and hammer FIGURE 4-39 Crankshaft Chain Sprocket - Typical Suspend the sprocket with a wire and heat it with a small torch. When it glows yellow (about 400°F or 204°C), slip it over the auxiliary end of the crankshaft. Hold the sprocket in place with high temperature gloves or two pieces of clean wood. Rotate it slightly to ensure squareness, until it cools enough to shrink onto the crankshaft. DO NOT TOUCH HOT SURFACES WITHOUT PROPER PROTEC- TION. Main Bearing Removal/Installation with Crankshaft Removed 1. Do not remove a main bearing cap simply to check bearing wear. Remove cap only to install a new bearing. DO NOT REUSE BEARING SHELLS. To determine bearing wear, check actual jack and crankshaft thrust clearances against clearance limits of Table B-1 in Appendix B (see Fig. 4-40 and Fig. 4-41). 2. Notches in the frame and bearing cap for the bearing tabs help to position the bearing halves initially and maintain the position. Check new bearing shells for damage, scratches, burrs, and loose material at the tab. DO NOT RUB BEARING SURFACE WITH FINGERNAIL. Installation requires perfectly clean bearing shells. New bearing shells are stamped with ink pictographs of a frame or connecting rod, for main and connecting rods bearings respectively. 3. Old bearing halves slide out easily, tab end first. Verify both the main bearing saddles and crankshaft are absolutely clean, and free from nicks and burrs. Slide in new bearings untabbed end first, and snap them into place. Locate tabs in the bearing saddle and bearing cap notches. NOTE: Main bearings and connecting rod bearings are not interchangeable. Do not put connecting rod bearings in main bearing locations. Main Bearings Removal/Installation with Crankshaft in Place CAUTION: To prevent personal injury, verify neither driver nor compressor cylinder gas pressure can turn the crankshaft during maintenance: on engine-driven compressors, either remove the center coupling or lock the flywheel; on electric motor-driven compressors, either detach the driver from the compressor or lock out the driver switch gear. CAUTION: Before any maintenance or component removal, relieve all pressure from compressor cylinders. See packager information to completely vent the system or call the packager for assistance. After maintenance, purge the entire system with gas prior to operation to avoid a potentially explosive air/gas mixture. 1. Remove top cover and spacer bars. TIP: If spacer bar bolts are difficult to remove, use a 12-point hammer wrench. Spacer bars slide in and should slide out by hand without falling out or hammering. If too loose or too tight, contact your packager or <strong>Ariel</strong> before proceeding. 3/11 PAGE 4-33
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Maintenance and Repair Manual For J
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For Models: JGE:H:K:T Oil Strainer.
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For Models: JGE:H:K:T SECTION 5 - S
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For Models: JGH:E:K:T FIGURE 4-23
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For Models: JGH:E:K:T General Safet
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For Models: JGH:E:K:T Ariel Contact
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Section 1 - Tools For Models: JGH:E
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Section 1 - Tools For Models: JGH:E
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Section 2 - Instrumentation For Mod
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Section 3 - Maintenance For Models:
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Page 58 and 59: Section 4 Part Replacement For Mode
Page 102 and 103: Section 5 - Start Up For Models: JG
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Page 116 and 117: Appendix A Ariel Fasteners and Torq
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Page 128 and 129: Appendix C - Frame Specifications F
Page 130 and 131: Appendix C - Frame Specifications F
Page 132: Appendix D Compressor Clearance, Oi
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Heavy Duty Balanced Opposed Compressors - Ariel Corporation

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