Heavy Duty Balanced Opposed Compressors - Ariel Corporation

Heavy Duty Balanced Opposed Compressors - Ariel Corporation Heavy Duty Balanced Opposed Compressors - Ariel Corporation

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Section 4 Part Replacement For Models: JGH:E:K:T Connecting Rods A Connecting Rod assembly consists of a Rod with Bushing, a Rod Cap, Rod Cap Bolts (4), and two half Bearing Shells. The Bearing Shells join together to form the Connecting Rod Bearing. Connecting Rod Removal 1. Remove top cover from crankcase and side covers from crosshead guides. 2. Remove the middle frame spacer bar of the three over the desired pair of throws. TIP: If spacer bar bolts are difficult to loosen, use a 12-point hammer wrench. Spacer bars fit snugly, but should remove manually without hammering. They should not fall out. If fit is too loose or tight contact your packager or Ariel before proceeding. 3. Move throw to outer dead center position. 4. Remove lock nut, bolt, end plates, and crosshead pin from crosshead. Discard old lock nut. 5. Remove crosshead as described in “Crossheads” on page 4-24. 6. Support connecting rod so it does not drop and damage the crosshead guide, then turn the crankshaft until the throw is at its highest point. Loosen all the rod cap bolts part way. Using the connecting rod cap removal tool (see Fig. 1-1), jack against the bolt heads to pull the rod cap free from the dowels. Remove the top two rod cap bolts and the rod bearing cap. The bottom two bolts remain in the cap during cap removal. NOTE: Do not pry or chisel to separate cap from rod; it damages the connecting rod. 7. Half of the bearing shell comes out with the cap. Slide out the other half from the rod. 8. Turn crankshaft until rod can be removed through the crosshead guide side cover openings. 9. After removing connecting rod(s), protect crank pins from nicks or scratches. NOTE: To remove all connecting rods, remove the crankshaft before rod removal. Detach all connecting rods from the crankshaft and retract them into the crosshead guides before crankshaft removal. Connecting Rod Bearing Removal and Installation The connecting rod bearing is tri-metal (steel, bronze, and babbitt with a tin flash coat) and precision split (2-shell). Notches in the rod and rod cap enable bearing tabs to position and maintain the position of the bearing halves. See Connecting Rod Removal above for bearing removal. 1. Do not remove connecting rod cap to check bearing wear. If cap is removed, replace the bearing. DO NOT REUSE BEARING SHELLS. 2. To determine bearing wear, check jack and side clearances against clearance limits in Table B-3 in Appendix B. Also check clearances after new bearing installation. Use calibrated dial indicators with 0.0005 inch (0.005 mm) increments and magnetic stands to check clearances. To check jack clearance: • Thread an eye bolt into the connecting rod and turn the crankshaft pin up. • Install a magnetic stand on the crankshaft web adjacent to the connecting rod. Place a needle dial indicator against the top of the connecting rod near the cap seam. See Fig. 4-34. • With a large pry bar inserted into the eye bolt, pry against the frame to force the connecting rod up until dial indicator needle stops moving. Note the reading. PAGE 4-28 3/11

For Models: JGH:E:K:T Section 4 Part Replacement Dial indicator magnetic stand place- ment on top of crankshaft web, and pry bar inserted into eye bolt. Dial indicator placement on top of connecting rod, and pry bar inserted into eye bolt. 3. Check thrust clearance: • Install a magnetic stand on the side of crankshaft web, with a button type dial indicator placed against the side of the connecting rod. See Fig. 4-35. • Use a pry bar to pry against the crankshaft web and thrust connecting rod tight toward dial indicator (do not pry on rod cap). Then pry on the connecting rod to thrust it tight in the opposite direction to determine clearance, repeat to verify measurement accuracy. 4. Remove eye bolts, magnetic stands, dial indicators, and pry bars after measurement. 5. Crank pin bearing replacement does not require connecting rod removal. NOTE: Connecting rod bearings and main bearings are not interchangeable. Connecting rod bearings have a narrower groove or no groove at all. DO NOT put main bearings in connecting rod bearing locations. 6. See “Connecting Rod Installation” on page 4-30 for bearing shell installation. If clearance readings are not within tolerance after new bearing installation, contact your packager or Ariel before proceeding. Connecting Rod Bushing Removal and Installation Use pry bar to check jack clearance. FIGURE 4-34 Measuring Connecting Rod Bearing Vertical Jack Clearance - Typical Dial indicator magnetic stand Button dial indicator placement. Rod thrust tight toward and away placement. from dial indicator. FIGURE 4-35 Measuring Connecting Rod Thrust (Side) Clearance - Typical 1. Check crosshead pin to bushing clearance (see Table B-1 in Appendix B). Determine pin wear by inspection. Replace pin, if necessary. 2. To replace a bushing, file or hacksaw the existing bushing to reduce the tightness of the shrink fit. From the inside diameter, file or saw across the length of the bushing to within 1/32 inches (1 mm) of its radial thickness. It can then be easily drifted out. DO NOT file or saw into the connecting rod; any bore damage renders the rod useless. 3/11 PAGE 4-29

Section 4 Part Replacement For Models: JGH:E:K:T<br />

Connecting Rods<br />

A Connecting Rod assembly consists of a Rod with Bushing, a Rod Cap, Rod Cap Bolts (4), and two<br />

half Bearing Shells. The Bearing Shells join together to form the Connecting Rod Bearing.<br />

Connecting Rod Removal<br />

1. Remove top cover from crankcase and side covers from crosshead guides.<br />

2. Remove the middle frame spacer bar of the three over the desired pair of throws. TIP: If spacer<br />

bar bolts are difficult to loosen, use a 12-point hammer wrench. Spacer bars fit snugly, but should<br />

remove manually without hammering. They should not fall out. If fit is too loose or tight contact<br />

your packager or <strong>Ariel</strong> before proceeding.<br />

3. Move throw to outer dead center position.<br />

4. Remove lock nut, bolt, end plates, and crosshead pin from crosshead. Discard old lock nut.<br />

5. Remove crosshead as described in “Crossheads” on page 4-24.<br />

6. Support connecting rod so it does not drop and damage the crosshead guide, then turn the<br />

crankshaft until the throw is at its highest point. Loosen all the rod cap bolts part way. Using the<br />

connecting rod cap removal tool (see Fig. 1-1), jack against the bolt heads to pull the rod cap free<br />

from the dowels. Remove the top two rod cap bolts and the rod bearing cap. The bottom two<br />

bolts remain in the cap during cap removal.<br />

NOTE: Do not pry or chisel to separate cap from rod; it damages the connecting rod.<br />

7. Half of the bearing shell comes out with the cap. Slide out the other half from the rod.<br />

8. Turn crankshaft until rod can be removed through the crosshead guide side cover openings.<br />

9. After removing connecting rod(s), protect crank pins from nicks or scratches.<br />

NOTE: To remove all connecting rods, remove the crankshaft before rod removal. Detach<br />

all connecting rods from the crankshaft and retract them into the crosshead guides before<br />

crankshaft removal.<br />

Connecting Rod Bearing Removal and Installation<br />

The connecting rod bearing is tri-metal (steel, bronze, and babbitt with a tin flash coat) and precision<br />

split (2-shell). Notches in the rod and rod cap enable bearing tabs to position and maintain the position<br />

of the bearing halves. See Connecting Rod Removal above for bearing removal.<br />

1. Do not remove connecting rod cap to check bearing wear. If cap is removed, replace the bearing.<br />

DO NOT REUSE BEARING SHELLS.<br />

2. To determine bearing wear, check jack and side clearances against clearance limits in Table B-3<br />

in Appendix B. Also check clearances after new bearing installation. Use calibrated dial indicators<br />

with 0.0005 inch (0.005 mm) increments and magnetic stands to check clearances. To check<br />

jack clearance:<br />

• Thread an eye bolt into the connecting rod and turn the crankshaft pin up.<br />

• Install a magnetic stand on the crankshaft web adjacent to the connecting rod. Place a needle<br />

dial indicator against the top of the connecting rod near the cap seam. See Fig. 4-34.<br />

• With a large pry bar inserted into the eye bolt, pry against the frame to force the connecting rod<br />

up until dial indicator needle stops moving. Note the reading.<br />

PAGE 4-28 3/11

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