Heavy Duty Balanced Opposed Compressors - Ariel Corporation

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Section 4 Part Replacement For Models: JGH:E:K:T uneven crush of a gasket that may cause leakage or even bolt failure. This step tightening procedure is also necessary for all valve caps. Install the valve assembly (and high clearance spacer, when applicable), metallic gasket, and valve retainer in the valve pocket. See “Valve Installation” on page 4-7. Lubricate and install a new O-ring, or for high pressure applications, place a new metallic wire gasket on the retainer or cap and install the valve cap. Be careful not to gouge the bore, or distort or damage the metallic wire gasket. Always use a new metallic wire gasket; wire gaskets are not reusable. Valve Retainer Valve Cap Metallic Wire Gasket Valve Assembly Pre-formed Metallic Gasket Lubricate threads and bolt seating sur- FIGURE 4-7 High Pressure Valve Cap Assembly faces with petroleum lubricant (except for stainless steel bolting, use Never-Seez), and install bolts. Do not use anti-seize compounds on steel valve cap bolting. Use the torquing procedure in Appendix A to tighten the bolts to the torque in Table A-3. Tighten in the pattern shown in Fig. 4-7. In correct assemblies with new valves, the distance from the underside of the cap to the valve cap boss surface is a uniform 1/8 inch (3 mm). The distance is slightly less with re-worked valves. Proper torque procedures are important for all valve caps, but particularly for high pressure valve cap assemblies. High pressure applications have caution plates stamped with proper torque values on the cylinders. CAUTION: Severe personal injury and property damage may result if valve cap bolting is not properly torqued. See Appendix A for proper torque and torquing procedure. Piston and Rod CAUTION: To prevent personal injury, verify neither driver nor compressor cylinder gas pressure can turn the crankshaft during maintenance: on engine-driven compressors, either remove the center coupling or lock the flywheel; on electric motor-driven compressors, either detach the driver from the compressor or lock out the driver switch gear. CAUTION: Before any maintenance or component removal, relieve all pressure from compressor cylinders. See packager information to completely vent the system or call the packager for assistance. Before removing a cylinder head, back off all cap screws 1/8 inch (3 mm). Verify the head is loose and the cylinder is completely vented. Piston and Rod Removal 1. For non-lube cylinders, see “Component Cleaning and Thread Lube for Non-Lube Compressor Cylinders” on page 4-43. 2. Remove crosshead guide side covers and cylinder head. First loosen cylinder head bolts per Caution above. 3. Move crosshead to its inner dead center position. Back off, but do not remove, the crossheadbalance nut set screws. Loosen crosshead-balance nut with the peg or open end wrench (see Fig. 1-1). Use the open end wrench for hex nuts and the peg wrench for round nuts. Or use the PAGE 4-8 3/11
For Models: JGH:E:K:T Section 4 Part Replacement separately purchased hydraulic crosshead-balance nut torque tool (see Fig. 1-2). 4. Remove cylinder head. In tandem cylinders where the outboard cylinder bore is smaller than the inboard bore, remove the outboard cylinder. Support such cylinders during removal and installation, to avoid excessive weight on the piston and rod assembly that may bend them. 5. Use the Piston Nut Spanner or Turning Tool to thread the piston and rod assembly out of the crosshead (see Fig. 1-1). The two dowels on the tool fit the piston nut holes. Turn the crosshead nut off the piston rod. 6. As the piston leaves the cylinder, handle the piston rings carefully. Despite their toughness in service, rings are fragile when removed. Always handle them with clean tools and hands to protect them from nicks, marring, and bending. Move piston out of cylinder until a fraction of the first ring clears the cylinder. Encircle the ring by hand (use a band for larger sizes) until it is clear, and remove it. Remove succeeding rings and wear band in the same way. 7. Slide piston rod out of head end. The threaded crosshead end of the rod is 1/4 inches (6 mm) smaller in diameter than the inside diameter of the packing. With extreme care, slowly slide piston rod through packing so as not to damage rod threads or packing rings. Use the Piston Rod Entering Sleeve (see Fig. 1-1). Manual Torquing of Piston Nuts Use this procedure consistently to manually reassemble and torque both new and used piston rod assemblies to minimize piston rod assembly failures. Contact Ariel Technical Services for questions or additional information about this procedure. Manual Piston and Rod Disassembly NOTE: Ariel offers a clamping fixture for 1.125" to 2" (29 to 51 mm) diameter piston rods. Ariel offers no clamping fixture for piston rods 2.5" (64 mm) or greater in diameter. 1. Securely bolt the clamping fixture to a base to prevent it from turning with the piston rod. Place it at a convenient height of about three feet (0.9 m). 2. Verify that the clamping fixture saddle where the clamping ring seats, the clamping ring, and the piston rod are clean, dry, and free of any oil. Even a small amount of oil can cause the piston rod to turn in the fixture during torquing, and a small amount of debris clamped under high force can damage a piston rod. 3. Clamp the piston and rod assembly in an appropriate clamping fixture using the appropriate clamping ring for the rod size. Torque the four fixture cap screws to 344 lb x ft (466 N•m) to prevent the rod from turning. The fixture properly holds the piston rod to prevent damage to the parts and promote safety during disassembly and reassembly. 4. Remove the setscrews from the piston nut. Although the piston nut is prick-punched to lock the setscrews, Nominal Piston Clamping Rod Diameter Force Required Inches (mm) Ton (kN) 1.125 (29) 8.67 (19.3) 1.5 (38) 20.4 (45.4) 2 (51) 35 (78) 2.5 (64) 60 (140) FIGURE 4-8 Clamping Fixture with Clamping Rings and Required Clamping Force Allen Wrench for Piston Nut Setscrews Torque Multiplier Piston Rod Clamping Fixture Spanner bolts onto Piston Nut Torque Wrench FIGURE 4-9 Piston and Rod Clamping Fixture use an Allen wrench to force them out by turning them past the small lip the prick-punch formed. 3/11 PAGE 4-9
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Maintenance and Repair Manual For J
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For Models: JGE:H:K:T Oil Strainer.
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For Models: JGE:H:K:T SECTION 5 - S
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For Models: JGH:E:K:T FIGURE 4-23
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For Models: JGH:E:K:T General Safet
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For Models: JGH:E:K:T Ariel Contact
Page 14 and 15: Section 1 - Tools For Models: JGH:E
Page 16 and 17: Section 1 - Tools For Models: JGH:E
Page 18 and 19: Section 2 - Instrumentation For Mod
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Page 58 and 59: Section 4 Part Replacement For Mode
Page 102 and 103: Section 5 - Start Up For Models: JG
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Section 6 - Troubleshooting For Mod
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Appendix A Ariel Fasteners and Torq
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Appendix B - Clearances For Models:
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Appendix C - Frame Specifications F
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Appendix C - Frame Specifications F
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Appendix D Compressor Clearance, Oi
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Heavy Duty Balanced Opposed Compressors - Ariel Corporation

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