Explorations in Bible lands during the 19th century - H. V. Hilprecht

Explorations in Bible lands during the 19th century - H. V. Hilprecht Explorations in Bible lands during the 19th century - H. V. Hilprecht

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90 EXPLORATIONS IN BIBLE LANDS of this first interesting journey, 1 the latter finally set out upon his "Early Adventures " in the summer of 1839, "with the intention ot making his way through Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, Persia, and India to Ceylon," where he expected to establish himself permanently. Not without difficulties and troublesome incidents the two associates reached Jerusalem in January, 1 840, where they separated for a little while, Mitford declining to join in the perilous excursion to the ruins of Petra, Ammon, and Jerash, which Layard, passionately fond of adventures, undertook alone. Two months later he reached Aleppo, whence, together with Mitford, he travelled to Mosul and Baghdad. During their brief stay at the former place, the two travellers met Ainsworth, a prominent member of the British Euphrates Expedition, 2 and Christian Rassam, brother of the later faithful friend and assistant of Layard, with both of whom they visited the ruins of Nineveh, Hammam 'All, Qal'at Shirgat, and El-Hadhr. It was in the month of April, 1840, in connection with this excursion down the western bank of the Tigris, that Layard, from an artificial eminence, for the first time looked upon the line of lofty mounds on the other side of the river, called Nimrud, where but shortly afterwards he was to raise " a lasting fame." monument to his own Mitford and Layard travelled together as far as Hamadan, whence on August 8 of the same year they finally parted, the former to continue his long and difficult journey to Kandahar, and the latter to engage in his adventurous life and perilous wanderings among the wild tribes of Persia and 'Iraq, until two years later, when we find him again at Mosul, 1 Edward Ledwich Mitford, " A Land-March from England to Ceylon Forty Years Ago, through Dalmatia, Montenegro, Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, Palestine, Assyria, Persia, Afghanistan, Scinde, and India," London, 1884, 2 vols. 2 Comp. pp. 57, seqq., above.

DURING 19 CENTURY: ASSYRIA AND BABYLONIA 91 stopping there for a little while on his way from Baghdad to Constantinople. Botta had meanwhile been appointed French consular agent, and tentatively cut a trench or two in the mound of Qoyunjuk. The two famous explorers met then and there — June, 1842 — for the first time, the one on the fair road to a great discovery, the other so far disappointed in his efforts to raise the necessary funds for similar excavations. Brief as this first meeting was, it formed the beginning of a friendly intercourse between the two great men, Layard, free from envy and jealousy, always encouraging Botta in his labors, and particularly calling his attention to Nimrud, the one place above others which he himself so eagerly desired to explore, when the paucity of results at Ooyunjuk threatened to dishearten his lonely friend. Robbed as he frequently was, and exposed to hardships and dangers of every kind, repeatedly even at the point of losing his life, Layard never ceased to " look back with feelings of grateful delight to those happy days when, free and unheeded, we left at dawn the humble cottage or cheerful tent, and lingering as we listed, unconscious of distance and of the hour, found ourselves as the sun went down under some hoarv ruin tenanted by the wandering Arab, or in some crumbling village still bearing a wellknown name. No experienced dragoman measured our distances and appointed our stations. We were honored with no conversations by pashas, nor did we seek any civilities from governors. We neither drew tears nor curses from villagers by seizing their horses, or searching their houses for provisions: their welcome was sincere; their scanty fare was placed before us ; we ate and came and went in peace." At a time when every moment the chronic dispute as to the actual boundary line between Turkey and Persia threatened to lead to a serious war which might prove detrimental

DURING 19 CENTURY: ASSYRIA AND BABYLONIA 91<br />

stopp<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>re for a little while on his way from Baghdad<br />

to Constant<strong>in</strong>ople. Botta had meanwhile been appo<strong>in</strong>ted<br />

French consular agent, and tentatively cut a trench or two<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> mound of Qoyunjuk. The two famous explorers<br />

met <strong>the</strong>n and <strong>the</strong>re — June, 1842 — for <strong>the</strong> first time, <strong>the</strong><br />

one on <strong>the</strong> fair road to a great discovery, <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r so far<br />

disappo<strong>in</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> his efforts to raise <strong>the</strong> necessary funds for<br />

similar excavations. Brief as this first meet<strong>in</strong>g was, it formed<br />

<strong>the</strong> beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of a friendly <strong>in</strong>tercourse between <strong>the</strong> two<br />

great men, Layard, free from envy and jealousy, always<br />

encourag<strong>in</strong>g Botta <strong>in</strong> his labors, and particularly call<strong>in</strong>g his<br />

attention to Nimrud, <strong>the</strong> one place above o<strong>the</strong>rs which he<br />

himself so eagerly desired to explore, when <strong>the</strong> paucity of<br />

results at Ooyunjuk threatened to dishearten his lonely<br />

friend.<br />

Robbed as he frequently was, and exposed to hardships<br />

and dangers of every k<strong>in</strong>d, repeatedly even at <strong>the</strong> po<strong>in</strong>t of<br />

los<strong>in</strong>g his life, Layard never ceased to " look back with<br />

feel<strong>in</strong>gs of grateful delight to those happy days when, free<br />

and unheeded, we left at dawn <strong>the</strong> humble cottage or<br />

cheerful tent, and l<strong>in</strong>ger<strong>in</strong>g as we listed, unconscious of distance<br />

and of <strong>the</strong> hour, found ourselves as <strong>the</strong> sun went<br />

down under some hoarv ru<strong>in</strong> tenanted by <strong>the</strong> wander<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Arab, or <strong>in</strong> some crumbl<strong>in</strong>g village still bear<strong>in</strong>g a wellknown<br />

name. No experienced dragoman measured our<br />

distances and appo<strong>in</strong>ted our stations. We were honored<br />

with no conversations by pashas, nor did we seek any civilities<br />

from governors. We nei<strong>the</strong>r drew tears nor curses<br />

from villagers by seiz<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>ir horses, or search<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

houses for provisions: <strong>the</strong>ir welcome was s<strong>in</strong>cere; <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

scanty fare was placed before us ; we ate and came and went<br />

<strong>in</strong> peace."<br />

At a time when every moment <strong>the</strong> chronic dispute as to<br />

<strong>the</strong> actual boundary l<strong>in</strong>e between Turkey and Persia threatened<br />

to lead to a serious war which might prove detrimental

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