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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°85 - 5Lt<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>VILNIUS</strong><br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
Seasonal shindigs<br />
Celebrate! We’ve got the<br />
what, where, how and when<br />
Bacon busters<br />
The best breakfasts in town
Get <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> before you go<br />
The full <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> range is available to purchase online at:<br />
www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°4 - 400 lek<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
TIRANA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
Shopping fever<br />
Tirana’s first malls<br />
Facade art<br />
Painting the city pink<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°41 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1508-2334<br />
N°23 - €1.75<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
KRAKÓW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
BERLIN<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Tarnów<br />
Explore the Pearl of the<br />
Renaissance<br />
Leisure<br />
Getting active in Kraków<br />
Museum night<br />
100 museums in one<br />
night<br />
Floating the<br />
boat<br />
Spree river tours<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°1 - Complimentary copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
SKOPJE<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
Skopje<br />
snapshots<br />
The Marubi photo<br />
collection<br />
Around town<br />
Daytrips to the lake,<br />
beach and mountains<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
BUCHAREST<br />
N°40 - 8.00 lei<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°47 - 35kr<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
TALLINN<br />
April - May 2006<br />
April - May 2006<br />
A New Look<br />
We‘ve never looked<br />
better: <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
gets a makeover<br />
Blogging<br />
Bucharest<br />
Our guide to the best<br />
politically incorrect<br />
comment online<br />
Touring Narva<br />
Cool sights at the EU‘s<br />
eastern border<br />
IYP gets a new<br />
look<br />
The inside scoop on the<br />
new look inside<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°20 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1640-3592<br />
N°23 - €1.75<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
GDAŃSK<br />
August - November 2006<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
FRANKFURT<br />
August - September 2006<br />
<strong>In</strong>cluding<br />
SOPOT & GDYNIA<br />
Kashubia<br />
Exploring the Polish Alps<br />
Hot spots<br />
The Baltic’s Beaches<br />
Beach bars<br />
Cocktail in hand, toes<br />
in sand<br />
Dram tram<br />
Sipping ebbelwei on the<br />
cider express<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°34 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1641-5264<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°7 - Free copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°60 - 1.20Ls<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
WARSAW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
BELFAST<br />
August - September 2006<br />
RIGA<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Wilanów<br />
Explore the Polish<br />
Versailles<br />
Out of town<br />
Poland‘s top spa town:<br />
Nałęczów<br />
The Great<br />
Outdoors<br />
Cycling, skydiving and<br />
country pursuits<br />
Gastro Tourism<br />
Seafood, whiskey and<br />
St. George’s Market<br />
Hockey Fever<br />
Everything you need to<br />
know about IIHF World<br />
Championship in Riga<br />
Explore Latvia<br />
Take a day trip to<br />
the seaside towns of<br />
Jūrmala and Liepāja<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°1 - Complimentary copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
SHKODRA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
Shkodra<br />
snapshots<br />
The Marubi photo<br />
collection<br />
Around town<br />
Daytrips to the lake,<br />
beach and mountains<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
ST. PETERSBURG<br />
April 2006 N°24<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
NEW<br />
LOOK!<br />
April 2006<br />
Easter Greetings<br />
Egg breaking & church<br />
walking…<br />
Russian in Russia<br />
The best ways to discover<br />
the language<br />
Culture & Events<br />
Simple Minds, t.A.T.u. &<br />
Cosmonaut’s Day<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
COLOGNE<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
River tours<br />
Wine and dine on the<br />
Rhine<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
June - July 2006<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
HAMBURG<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
June - July 2006<br />
Harbour tours<br />
Down in the docks<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°1 - €3<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
PRISTINA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
Feature 2 - max<br />
2 lines<br />
Short description of the<br />
feature. Should be max.<br />
3 lines.<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°34 - 100 Kč<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
PRAGUE<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Going to the<br />
chapel<br />
Karlštejn’s renovated<br />
jewel<br />
Let’s rock<br />
Visiting the Bohemian<br />
Paradise<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°2 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1896-1169<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ŁÓDŹ<br />
September - December 2006<br />
Hollyłódź<br />
Poland‘s cinema city<br />
Stars in your<br />
eyes<br />
From Polanski to Max<br />
Factor, read about the<br />
famous natives.<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
KAISERSLAUTERN<br />
June - July 2006<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
Going Palatine<br />
Strolling in the forest
E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S<br />
Contents<br />
Arriving in Vilnius 5<br />
How to go to town once you turn up<br />
The Basics 6<br />
Essential information, from tipping to toilets<br />
History 8<br />
Never a dull decade<br />
Culture & Events 10<br />
Concerts, Christmas, New Year<br />
Where to stay 14<br />
A bed for every budget<br />
Dining & Nightlife<br />
Where to eat 24<br />
From posh nosh to pub grub<br />
Breakfast 36<br />
We spill the beans on the best eggs<br />
Cafés 37<br />
It’s cold out there, but warm in here ...<br />
Nightlife 38<br />
Bars, clubs and... erm, naughty bits<br />
Sightseeing 44<br />
From essential to wacky attractions<br />
Jewish Vilnius 53<br />
History, culture and more<br />
Getting around 54<br />
How to get here, there and everywhere<br />
Seasonal high lights<br />
Contents<br />
You’ll find this statue tucked-away in the yard behind the<br />
Bernadine Church (D-3). We love the way it looks like it’s<br />
been hacked out of a log with an axe by a crazy person<br />
whose eyes point in different directions and whose hair is<br />
always having a party. It’s rough-hewn, but also very sweet.<br />
It’s also not the only charming wood carving you can find<br />
in Vilnius. Wander into the courtyard behind Vokiečių 20,<br />
have a good look around, and you may find another. Unless<br />
someone’s nicked it. That’s one of the many appealing<br />
aspects of Vilnius. There are secrets, cute corners, and<br />
plenty of tucked-away treasures. Exploring is a pleasure.<br />
Although, at this time of year, we suggest you rug-up warm<br />
to do it. Good shoes, lots of layers and decent hat, gloves<br />
and scarf are all recommended. Have fun!<br />
Mail & phones<br />
Keeping in touch, getting online<br />
Directory<br />
60<br />
Shopping 62<br />
Lifestyle 66<br />
Activities & Sports 69<br />
Health 70<br />
Business 72<br />
Druskininkai<br />
A new look at the old salt of Lithuania<br />
75<br />
Trakai<br />
More then just a pretty place<br />
Maps<br />
79<br />
Street index 81<br />
City centre map 82<br />
City map 83<br />
Country map 87<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
Foreword<br />
If you’re reading this, chances are that you are a<br />
strapping young chap taking your strumpet tackle<br />
for a titillating and adventure-packed holiday. And<br />
that’s fine, and we’ll happily tell you where to go<br />
(see the nightlife section starting on page 38).<br />
However, we hasten to point out that the charms<br />
of Vilnius extend beyond the pretty girls on the<br />
dancefloor. Vilnius is a city riddled with history,<br />
intrigue and a delightful array of inviting little nooks<br />
and grannies.<br />
Tuck yourself into a warm and cosy hidey hole,<br />
watch snowflakes flirting in the wind outside, and<br />
wonder how the ladies negotiate those slippery icecrusted<br />
cobblestones on needle-point high heels.<br />
Sip a tipple – hot wine would be nice, but vodka is<br />
also popular.<br />
Whatever you get up to, don’t hesitate to get in<br />
touch and let us know your opinions. Write to<br />
vilnius@inyourpocket.com or add comments to the<br />
reviews on our website: www.inyourpocket.com.<br />
One advertiser in this issue has challenged our<br />
reviews and asked on what basis we choose<br />
venues for inclusion. Simple. We spin a bottle and<br />
wander off in the direction in which it points in<br />
search of sustenance and adventure. Then we write<br />
about what we think will be interesting and helpful<br />
to foreigners in Vilnius. Then we empty another<br />
bottle and do it all again.<br />
Cover story<br />
E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Vokiečių 10-15<br />
Vilnius, Lithuania, LT-01130<br />
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76<br />
fax (+370-5) 212 29 82<br />
vilnius@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1392-0057<br />
©UAB “VIYP”<br />
Printed by A.Jakšto spaustuvė<br />
Published six times per year<br />
20,000 copies per issue. That’s<br />
one copy for every time the average<br />
person will blink in one day.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Vilnius Cathedral is<br />
beautifully lit at night, as<br />
shown in this stunning photo<br />
taken by Ivanas Jariga. It will<br />
also be the scene of many<br />
celebrations for Christmas<br />
and New Year. See page 11<br />
for information.<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Andrew Quested<br />
Research Urtė ‘spoamy’ Jankauskaitė<br />
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė<br />
Cover Photo Ivanas Jariga<br />
Sales & Circulation<br />
Publisher Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
General Manager Gabija Thomson<br />
Accounting Virginija Dobrovolskienė<br />
Sales Manager Rasa Jankauskaitė<br />
Distribution Manager<br />
Darius Pralgauskas<br />
tel. +370 624 838 34<br />
Available for 5Lt from bookshops,<br />
kiosks, hotels and Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation<br />
Centres. We are proud to be the moststolen<br />
item from hotel foyers, cafés,<br />
flyLAL flights and the back pocket of<br />
anyone walking slowly.<br />
Europe <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
We get hundreds of emails a week asking when<br />
we intend to <strong>Pocket</strong> this or that city. Hanoi pops<br />
up regularly, as do Havana and Oslo. But the most<br />
requested? Dublin, by a mile.<br />
And on this front we have good news. Whisper<br />
it, but a crack team of writers and researchers<br />
is currently in the city of Joyce developing the<br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> idea with a view to launching a first edition<br />
of Dublin <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> next year. Mostar<br />
(Bosnia) is another new guide due out in 2008.<br />
We would also like to modestly mention that last<br />
month The Times named www.inyourpocket.com<br />
as one of the top 10 travel websites on the web.<br />
Copyright notice<br />
Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP<br />
1992-2008; some photos, LATGA-A;<br />
maps, cartographer. All rights reserved.<br />
No part of this publication may be<br />
reproduced in any form, except brief<br />
extracts for the purpose of review,<br />
without written permission from the<br />
publisher and copyright owner. The brand<br />
name <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> is used under license<br />
from UAB <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> (Vokiečių 10-15,<br />
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212 29 76).<br />
Editor’s note<br />
Kaliningrad<br />
The editorial content of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
guides is independent from paid-for<br />
advertising. Sponsored listings are<br />
clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />
readers‘ comments and suggestions.<br />
We have made every effort to ensure<br />
the accuracy of the information at the<br />
time of going to press and assume no<br />
responsibility for changes and errors.
Arriving by plane<br />
Vilnius Airport<br />
Vilnius airport is just five km from the centre of the city, so<br />
getting to town is quick and inexpensive. Getting through<br />
immigration and customs is also very quick. Once you’ve<br />
been released into the arrivals hall, turn hard-right to find<br />
an ATM against the wall which will happily issue Lithuanian<br />
litas in inconveniently large denominations.<br />
The nearby Lietuvos Spauda kiosk (open 06:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 23:00) is a little further along<br />
and is great not just for picking up phone cards, sweeties,<br />
and the latest copy of Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>, but also for<br />
giving you enough change to make getting into town a bit<br />
easier. (Try handing a 200Lt note to a bus or taxi driver and<br />
see what happens.)<br />
Left luggage (open 24hrs) is at the opposite (left) end of the<br />
arrivals hall, as is lost luggage (open 10:00 - 15:30). A twominute<br />
exploration will also reveal a Vilnius Bank currency<br />
exchange (open 24hrs), public telephones (see page 61 for<br />
instructions) and car rental kiosks.<br />
Getting to town from Vilnius Airport<br />
A taxi to Old Town will cost about 40Lt, depending on the<br />
time of day and mood of the driver. Only one taxi company,<br />
Martonas, has been granted a licence to allow its drivers<br />
to squabble over newly arriving passengers at the airport.<br />
While they are by no means the cheapest taxi company, they<br />
are supposed to have reliable drivers who are supposed to<br />
be able to speak English. To save a little money, you could call<br />
another taxi company (see page 54), but for most foreigners<br />
the amount saved will not be worth the bother.<br />
If you’re on a budget, get on a bus. The bus stop is just to the left<br />
as you exit the arrivals hall. Bus 1 goes to the train station (H-5)<br />
as late as 22:47 and bus 2 to Lukiškių Square (G-3, north-east<br />
corner) as late as 23:44 on weekdays and 23:16 on weekends.<br />
Buy tickets from the driver on the bus for 1.40Lt.<br />
Kaunas Airport<br />
There is a private minibus company that will pick you up from<br />
Kaunas airport and whisk you to Vilnius for 45Lt (35 if you book<br />
in advance online: www.airport-bus.lt). The schedule is timed to<br />
meet incoming flights. Check the website for details.<br />
Kaunas Airport chaos<br />
We’ve had the misfortune of using Kaunas Airport recently<br />
and found it to be such a shambles that we simply must<br />
issue a warning: Avoid Kaunas Airport at all costs, and if<br />
you must use it, we would suggest bringing a bodyguard<br />
and arriving several hours before your flight.<br />
The problem is a combination of bad organisation and<br />
locals who don’t know how to queue. There is one security<br />
check area that you must pass through before you<br />
check-in, and people simply clump around the entrance<br />
in a rowdy scrum. Occasionally a queue breaks out, but<br />
it quickly spills out the door and as soon as people get<br />
sick of standing in the cold (where they are unable to<br />
hear airport announcements) any semblance of civility<br />
is understandably lost and people start shoving past one<br />
another and pushing-in. When we visited, airport staff<br />
made no effort to control or organize the situation.<br />
We hope things will improve, but for the time being it<br />
seems that Kaunas Airport is so overstretched and<br />
poorly managed that we simply must suggest that you<br />
avoid it altogether. It makes Heathrow look like heaven,<br />
and that is quite an achievement. Paying a little extra to<br />
fly into and out of Vilnius is highly recommended.<br />
Arriving in vilnius<br />
Tourist information<br />
Vilnius Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation B-2, Vilniaus 22,<br />
tel. 262 96 60, fax 262 81 69, tic@<br />
vilnius.lt, www.vilnius-tourism.lt. Brochures,<br />
entertainment schedules, English,<br />
German, Polish and Russian-speaking<br />
staff. Car rental and accommodation also<br />
available. Now you can also take part in<br />
their sightseeing excursions: The Legends of Vilnius:<br />
a Ghostly Excursion, Discover the Old Town of Vilnius,<br />
Noblemen Feast in Tiškevičiai Palace, Trip to Medieval<br />
Town and National Night. Be sure to ask, however, in what<br />
language the excursion is presented. Also at Didžioji 31<br />
(Town Hall), tel. 262 64 70, fax 262 07 62, turizm.info@<br />
vilnius.lt . Open 09:00-18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Geležinkelio 16 (Train station), tel./fax 269 20 91, tic3@<br />
vilnius.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Konstitucijos 3 (Municipality), tel. 211 20 31, turizmas@<br />
vilnius.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:45. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00,<br />
closed Sun. J<br />
Unless you’re arriving late in the evening, you can also make<br />
way directly to the Kaunas bus or train station and then carry<br />
on to Vilnius from there. Bus 29 leaves from outside the front<br />
of the airport and goes to both the bus and train stations. If<br />
you need to stay in Kaunas, grab a copy of Kaunas <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> or check our website for accommodation listings.<br />
Arriving by train<br />
The renovated train station is a bit less abysmal than the<br />
bus station located across the street. On the first floor is a<br />
Hansa Bank currency exchange and <strong>In</strong>formation office (open<br />
24hrs). There is also a Parex Bank currency exchange office<br />
right next door, and it is open 24-hours.<br />
The 24-hour left luggage and Lietuvos Spauda kiosk (open<br />
06:00 - 21:00) is located downstairs in the basement.<br />
Public telephones can be found scattered throughout the<br />
station. Train timetables can be viewed at www.litrail.lt,<br />
but that website is only accurate in Lithuanian. Be aware<br />
that when arriving on a train in transit through Lithuania,<br />
you’ll go through customs checks after disembarking from<br />
the train.<br />
Getting to town from the train station<br />
You’re more or less in it. Walk to the Old Town in seven<br />
minutes by sauntering to your right as you exit the station<br />
and either taking a left down Pylimo street, or hopping on<br />
bus 26 or trolleybus 1, 2, 5 or 7, all of which head off to<br />
different destinations via the city centre. Buy a ticket from<br />
the driver for 1.40Lt. Minibuses 1, 2, 4, 5, 7 or 62 go via the<br />
city centre, tickets cost 3Lt.<br />
Arriving by bus<br />
When the bus station was renovated the vagrant riff-raff<br />
who hang around it were left alone, ensuring a trip here<br />
will increase your vocabulary of Russian swear words. The<br />
Lietuvos Spauda kiosk (open 06:00 - 22:00), left luggage<br />
(open 05:30 - 21:45) and public telephones are located<br />
in the main building. A few ATMs and kiosks can also be<br />
found, where you can purchase, among other things, snacks<br />
and maps.<br />
Getting to town from the bus station<br />
The same as from the train station - see above.<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
BAsiCs<br />
Alcohol<br />
We don’t want to sound like your mum, but it has to be said:<br />
Go easy. Lithuanian beer is all light and bright in terms of taste<br />
and texture, but packs a punch. It seduces you like Lolita in<br />
a summer dress and then takes you down like a body slam<br />
from Jabba the Hut. It can even lead gentlemen to go to bed<br />
with one and wake up with the other.<br />
All this is because, despite their wispy appearance, local<br />
beers tend to have an alcohol content of around five percent,<br />
cost comparatively little, are sometimes served in hilariously<br />
large vessels (such as a tall bubbling tube that looks like<br />
something out of ‘Charlie and the Beer Factory’) and are<br />
generally consumed in environments where being sensible<br />
or going home are not the most attractive options.<br />
The common local brands are Horn, Kalnapilis, Švyturys,<br />
Utenos, Ragutis and Tauras, all of which come in a confusing<br />
variety of varieties. <strong>In</strong> most places, however, you can just say<br />
‘beer’ and get whatever is going without being disappointed<br />
or ripped off. <strong>In</strong> Old Town areas, expect to pay somewhere<br />
in the region of 5 - 12Lt for half a litre.<br />
Watch out for Žalgiris, named after the greatest battle of<br />
medievil Europe. With 75 per cent alcohol content, it has<br />
the potential to make you feel that the battle is taking place<br />
inside your eyeballs.<br />
Lithuanian vodka (degtinė) is worth trying as it stacks<br />
up to, if not topples over, many of its Russian and Polish<br />
counterparts. Numerous herb and fruit-based liquors will<br />
often line the inside of a drinks menu; most work as a<br />
pleasant accompaniment to tea. The local variation of<br />
champagne, Alita, is a bit more like alcoholic 7-Up than<br />
grown-up sparkling white wine.<br />
Customs<br />
Criminal masterminds take note: Lithuanian customs officers<br />
have recently demonstrated that one cannot expect to arrive<br />
on a plane with a crocodile, skate across a frozen river<br />
wearing a snowy white camouflage kimono and hauling a<br />
sledge full of cigarettes, hide a late model Mercedes under<br />
a pile of onions on the back of a truck, or carry cocaine in<br />
your handbag. All such cunning schemes have been foiled<br />
at the border.<br />
Other than such obvious considerations, those arriving from<br />
EU countries have no import restrictions placed upon them<br />
– although you will need to make it known if you are arriving<br />
with 10,000Lt or more in cold, hard cash.<br />
When arriving from non-EU countries, you are entitled to<br />
bring in one litre of spirits or two litres of wine or beer and<br />
200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco.<br />
You can bring 50g of perfume and 250ml of eau de toilette<br />
(that’s just diluted perfume, for those men among you who<br />
don’t speak poof). You can’t bring plants, meat, milk or<br />
dairy products from outside the EU except under certain<br />
circumstances. You can’t arrive with live birds. Dogs require<br />
vaccinations and passports (or other proof of vaccination).<br />
You can take home as much art as you wish tax free unless<br />
it’s over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay 10-20 per<br />
cent duty. Take two photos of the art piece and your passport<br />
to the Committee of Cultural Heritage, Šnipiškių 3, tel. 273 42<br />
56. Many of the better antique shops in Vilnius (see page 62)<br />
can take care of all the paperwork for you. For more detailed<br />
information check www.cust.lt, and for information on animal<br />
related arrivals, check www.vet.lt.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Disabled travellers<br />
Despite the Miss Disability contest held in Kaunas recently,<br />
Lithuania does have an attitude toward disability that is a<br />
bit more mature than ‘just because you’re in a wheelchair<br />
doesn’t mean your not sexy.’ <strong>In</strong> terms of bad taste, Miss<br />
Disability was up there with Miss Captivity, the beauty<br />
pageant for female prison inmates held in 2002.<br />
While things have greatly improved for the disabled over the<br />
past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get around<br />
on anything other than two well functioning legs. Even places<br />
that claim to be wheelchair friendly are often flanked by deep<br />
kerbs or stairs, or are located on cobbled streets. Outside the<br />
capital, you’ll be lucky to find any thought given to wheelchair<br />
accessibility at all.<br />
It is becoming common for good international-standard<br />
hotels to be wheelchair friendly, offer hearing loops in<br />
conference facilities, and even to offer rooms fitted out for<br />
the disabled. See the key in our Where to stay listings (page<br />
14), and call ahead to discuss your specific needs before<br />
making any bookings.<br />
The newer trolleybuses in Vilnius have low entries, spaces<br />
for wheelchairs, and hearing loops (so you, along with all the<br />
other passengers, can be misinformed about which stop is<br />
next when the windows are all fogged up).<br />
There are some pedestrian crossings that go beep-beepbeep<br />
– tikka-tikka-tikka and so on so that blind people know<br />
when to cross the road, but in our experience blindness<br />
seems to affect drivers more than anyone else, so we would<br />
advise extreme caution anyway.<br />
Electricity<br />
Lithuania has a nuclear power plant of the same questionable<br />
design as the one that popped its rivets in Chernobyl. It’s still<br />
gently humming away about 80km north-east of Vilnius, but<br />
will be down as a condition of Lithuania’s EU membership.<br />
The first of two reactors was shut down as promised at the<br />
end of December 2004, and the second must go offline by<br />
the end of 2009. Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia have agreed<br />
to join forces and build a new nuclear power plant in Lithuania<br />
which should go online by 2015.<br />
Regardless of where the electricity is produced, it pours<br />
out of European style two-pin sockets at 220V, 50Hz AC.<br />
Travellers from outside Europe, or from that strange little<br />
island in Europe that still uses big three-prong monster plugs,<br />
should bring an adaptor. The best place to look for adaptors<br />
would be the Akropolis shopping centre, where Elektromarkt<br />
and a nearby geek bits store may be able to help you.<br />
Floors<br />
<strong>In</strong> Lithuania the ground floor is referred to as the first floor.<br />
Genealogy<br />
Three state-run organisations offer assistance to those<br />
tracking down Lithuanian relatives. With records of all births,<br />
deaths and marriages from 1940 to the present day the<br />
Lithuanian Central Registry Agency (Gyventojų registro<br />
tarnyba) Lvovo 7/6, tel. 271 77 88 is helpful for those who<br />
know the location and approximate dates of who they are<br />
trying to find. From 1941-1942 the Nazis compiled records<br />
of all Lithuanian citizens which are housed at the Lithuanian<br />
Central State Archive (Lietuvos centrinis valstybės
archyvas) O.Milašiaus 21, tel. 247 78 11, fax 276 53 18.<br />
Archives ending in 1940 available from the church registry at<br />
the Lithuanian State Historical Archives (Lietuvos valstybės<br />
istorijos archyvai) Gerosios Vilties 10, tel. 213 74 82, fax<br />
213 76 12.<br />
Émigrés planning their return to the motherland should know<br />
that it is the duty of the Lithuanian Repatriation <strong>In</strong>formation<br />
Centre (Lietuvių grįžimo į Tėvynę informacijos centras)<br />
Gedimino 64, tel. 231 36 23, fax 231 36 24, www.lgitic.lt.<br />
to uphold the law, whereby all Lithuanian citizens who were<br />
involuntarily displaced by the Soviets are given the essential<br />
rights, including housing, taken away from them during the<br />
post-war occupation of Lithuania. The centre can also help<br />
locate relatives.<br />
Money<br />
The unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas (Lt), which comes<br />
in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500Lt notes.<br />
The coins can be divided into two categories: the significant<br />
1, 2, and 5Lt coins; and the nearly weightless and worthless<br />
centas/centai/centų coins of which there are 50, 20, 10,<br />
5, 2 and 1.<br />
The value of the litas is locked to that of the euro (€) at<br />
3.4528Lt to €1. Lithuania was keen to adopt the euro at the<br />
start of 2007 but their application was knocked back by the<br />
EU because they missed an inflation target by 0.1 per cent.<br />
With inflation increasing, it it is not clear when Lithuania will<br />
be able to adopt the euro. Keep your litas handy.<br />
Most places of any note in cities now happily accept credit<br />
cards, and ATMs dot the streets ensuring cash for everyone<br />
with money in their account and a card attached to the Cirrus<br />
or Visa network. Travellers’ cheques can be redeemed for<br />
cash in hotels and banks. If you’re heading out of town,<br />
cash-up before you go – it can be as hard to find an ATM<br />
in Kapčiamiestis or Skaistgirys as it can be to pronounce<br />
the name.<br />
Safety<br />
Exercise common sense. Don’t flaunt your wealth and flash<br />
your cash. Don’t walk home from a nightclub along dark alleys<br />
while draped in bling-bling jewellery or blinking technology.<br />
Stay cautious, look like you know where you are going<br />
(zigzagging won’t help) and you will be fine. Truly heinous<br />
crimes are rare here, but theft is becoming increasingly more<br />
common. Do not leave mobile phones, wallets, purses, or<br />
fashion-accessory pooches unattended or out of your direct<br />
reach. Especially at street side cafés or in bars. Greenuniformed<br />
police are supposed to be keeping the peace<br />
in Old Town, although finding one when you need on is like<br />
looking for a cucumber in a haystack.<br />
Smoking<br />
Since the start of 2007, smoking has been banned in pretty<br />
much all venues. That includes cafés, bars, restaurants, clubs<br />
and any establishment that serves anything alleged to be<br />
food. There are exceptions for ‘specially equipped’ cigar and<br />
pipe clubs, none of which actually exist yet (as at the end of<br />
November, 2007).<br />
Many venues have set up ashtrays by their doors, so if you<br />
want to have a puff, or get some not-so-fresh air, all you have<br />
to do is step outside. The unfortunate downside of this is that<br />
non-smokers will have to hold their breath as they enter and<br />
leave some places.<br />
Climate<br />
Temperature, °C<br />
30<br />
20<br />
10<br />
0<br />
-10<br />
-20<br />
J<br />
BAsiCs<br />
Rainfall, mm<br />
100<br />
F M A M J J A S O N D<br />
Most popular international cigarettes are readily available,<br />
and cigars, pipes, rolling tobacco and cigarette papers<br />
are also reasonably well-represented. Cigarettes can be<br />
purchased at kiosks and supermarkets as well as most<br />
bars and restaurants, and are very cheap by western<br />
standards.<br />
Speed limits<br />
<strong>In</strong> town, keep your speed around 50 km/h unless indicated<br />
otherwise; on country roads, no higher than 90km/h. On the<br />
Vilnius-Kaunas motorway no faster than 100km/h is legal<br />
and all other motorways are 110km/h from Nov 1 - Apr 1<br />
and 130km/h for the rest of the year.<br />
Tipping<br />
Only required to reward good service, or to round-up the bill<br />
and save yourself the nuisance of carrying around shrapnel<br />
in the form of small useless coins. Ten per cent is fair.<br />
Visas<br />
For perhaps the first time in history Lithuania has no apparent<br />
adversaries, which means there are plenty of countries with<br />
visa-free travel agreements. To date these include Australia,<br />
Canada, New Zealand, Switzerland and the US, plus Nordic<br />
countries, although you should note that the periods for which<br />
citizens are allowed to stay in Lithuania before requiring a visa<br />
are different for each country. EU citizens can live and work<br />
in Lithuania for as long as they like but must get a resident<br />
permit. For more information, take a look at www.urm.lt.<br />
Toilets<br />
‘Kur tualetas?’ (Where’s the toilet?) Well we can certainly<br />
tell you where it is not. The toilet is one hundred per cent<br />
without a doubt, no need to read between these lines,<br />
NOT located on the wall adjacent to the President’s Palace<br />
on Universiteto Street. A visiting policeman, believe it<br />
or not, was once arrested for assuming that it is.<br />
Otherwise the toilet situation in Vilnius is well developed.<br />
Toilets are no longer stinky holes in the floor. There are<br />
a few public toilets in town that should be avoided for<br />
sit-down affairs that certainly offer a nice retrospective<br />
for a pittance. Otherwise, most bars and restaurants<br />
offer an agreeable refuge for discharging.<br />
or M = ladies or V = gentlemen<br />
75<br />
50<br />
25<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
0
history<br />
Surrounded and often attacked by its neighbours,<br />
Lithuania’s history is one, more often than not, of a bitter<br />
struggle for independence. With one of the oldest spoken<br />
languages and as one of the final European countries to<br />
convert to Christianity, Lithuania has historically been able<br />
to maintain its own unique identity even with the struggles<br />
for power and sovereignty.<br />
7th - 2nd centuries BC The first Baltic tribes establish<br />
themselves on what is now known as Lithuanian territory.<br />
11th century The word Lithuania is first used in written<br />
texts 1009AD. At the same time, a wooden castle was<br />
built on Gediminas Hill in Vilnius, which led to a diminutive<br />
settlement below it.<br />
13th century Samogitians defeat the Livonian knights at<br />
the battle of Saulė in 1236. After uniting local chieftains, on<br />
July 6, 1253 Mindaugas is crowned Lithuania’s one and only<br />
king. During his reign as the first Christian sovereign of the<br />
state, the Vilnius Cathedral is built. However, the majority of<br />
the population remains pagan.<br />
14th century <strong>In</strong> 1323 Grand Duke Gediminas sends<br />
letters to various German towns, inviting their craftsmen and<br />
merchants to settle in Vilnius with the promise of religious<br />
freedom. Trying to insure peace, in 1325 Gediminas forms<br />
a union with Poland by marrying his daughter Aldona to the<br />
Polish king’s son. The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth<br />
comes into being by the 1387 Krėva Union, whereby<br />
Gediminas’s grandson Jogaila becomes a Polish king<br />
by marrying the Polish Princess Jadwiga. Even with the<br />
increased security, the Teutonic knights, however, still<br />
manage to invade, resulting in the 1390 burning of the<br />
wood-constructed Vilnius.<br />
15th century The bothersome Teutonic knights are<br />
eventually defeated on July 15, 1410 by Lithuanian armies<br />
led by Jogaila and Grand Duke Vytautas at traditionally what<br />
is considered the most important battle in Lithuanian history,<br />
the battle of Tannenberg / Grünwald / Žalgiris. The country<br />
flourishes and by 1430 the borders extend from the Baltic<br />
to the Black Sea. Karaims settle in the Trakai area and the<br />
Jewish population in Vilnius prospers.<br />
16th century The Renaissance sees marked cultural<br />
advances, notably the printing of the first Lithuanian book<br />
in 1547, and the founding of Vilnius University in 1579. The<br />
end of the Jogaila dynasty in 1572 results in the political<br />
and cultural marginalisation of Lithuania. Polish becomes the<br />
state language. The Livonian wars with Russia and Sweden<br />
drain the Commonwealth’s resources.<br />
18th century <strong>In</strong> the beginning of the 1700s both Swedish<br />
and Russian forces try to seize control of Vilnius. By 1795<br />
the Russian’s attempt is successful as they seize control over<br />
Lithuania in its entirety. The 120-year Russian occupation<br />
is only interrupted by a short liberation by Napoleon’s army<br />
in 1812 on his failed campaign to Moscow. During the<br />
Napoleonic army’s return through Vilnius nearly 40,000 men<br />
died due to starvation and extreme cold.<br />
19th century Vilnius University acts as a hotbed of<br />
dissent against the tsarist government, culminating in an<br />
1831 uprising, which leads to the closing of the institution.<br />
Russification ensues with non-Orthodox churches forcibly<br />
closed, the Lithuanian language being banned and the<br />
country now titled as the Northwest Region. The ban on Latin<br />
script forces the smuggling in of books from neighbouring<br />
Königsberg (now known as Kaliningrad, and ironically part of<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Russia). Another uprising takes place in 1863 and General<br />
Muravyov (‘The Hangman’) is sent to restore order, resulting<br />
in deaths by hanging for most of the leading activists. The<br />
repression is countered and defied by a revival of Lithuanian<br />
culture and tradition, and in 1883 Jonas Basanavičius<br />
publishes the first Lithuanian-language newspaper.<br />
<strong>In</strong>dependence & Beyond<br />
1988 June 3 The Lithuanian Reform Movement Sąjūdis<br />
is founded by some five hundred representatives of the<br />
intelligentsia, advocating ‘openness, democracy and<br />
sovereignty’. Aug 23 A quarter of a million people gather<br />
in Vilnius to mark the 49th anniversary of the Molotov-<br />
Ribbentrop Pact. Oct 7 The Lithuanian flag is raised on<br />
Gediminas Castle.<br />
1989 Feb 16 Lithuanian <strong>In</strong>dependence Day is officially<br />
commemorated. Aug 23 An estimated two million<br />
Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians join hands in a human<br />
chain stretching the 650km between Vilnius to Tallinn to<br />
protest the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact.<br />
1990 Jan 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachev’s visit to Vilnius is<br />
far from pleasant as some 300,000 pro-independence<br />
demonstrators turn out to “welcome” him. March 4 Proindependence<br />
Sąjūdis candidates receive an overall majority<br />
in the first free elections in Lithuania since 1940. March 11<br />
The Supreme Council (later morphed into the Parliament or<br />
Seimas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian independence<br />
and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forces. Dr Vytautas<br />
20th Century<br />
During the World War I German occupation 1915 - 1918,<br />
the Lithuanian Council proclaim the Republic of Lithuania<br />
to be independent on February<br />
16, 1918 (<strong>In</strong>dependence Day).<br />
As the Germans retreat, the<br />
Lithuanian state comes under<br />
attack by the Polish General<br />
Józef Piłsudski who seizes control<br />
of Vilnius and areas south<br />
of it from 1920 - 1939. Poland<br />
maintains control of these areas by claiming they were a<br />
portion of the pre-war Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.<br />
Kaunas becomes the interim capital of Lithuania until<br />
1940. During the inter-war period independent Lithuania<br />
prospers under the thirteen-year leadership of strongman<br />
Antanas Smetona (1926 - 1940). Lithuanian independence<br />
ends with the clandestine signing on August<br />
23, 1939 of the Molotov - Ribbentropp Pact between<br />
Hitler and Stalin, who carve up Europe into portions to<br />
be controlled either by Germany or the USSR. Lithuania<br />
is subject to both Soviet and Nazi occupation. Between<br />
1941 - 1944 Gestapo and SS units organise the mass<br />
murder of over two-hundred thousand Jews - 94% of<br />
the entire Lithuanian Jewish population. The return of<br />
the Red Army and the re-incorporation of Lithuania into<br />
the USSR on July 7, 1944 results in the deportation of<br />
a quarter of a million Lithuanians to the Siberian gulags,<br />
a task they’d already begun in 1941 before the Nazis<br />
arrived. Polish - Lithuanians are extradited to Poland.<br />
Lithuanian partisans, dubbed the ‘Forest Brothers’,<br />
wage guerrilla warfare until 1953. On May 14, 1972,<br />
a 19 year-old student, Romas Kalanta, commits self-immolation<br />
in the city gardens of Kaunas in protest of the<br />
Soviet government.
National holidays<br />
Lithuanians would celebrate the opening of an envelope.<br />
Any excuse for a bit less work and a bit more cake will<br />
be welcomed, including birthdays and ‘name days’. The<br />
following are the official public holidays.<br />
January 1 New Year’s Day & National Flag Day<br />
February 16 <strong>In</strong>dependence Day<br />
March 11 Restoration of <strong>In</strong>dependence<br />
March 23 Easter Sunday (2008)<br />
March 24 Easter Monday (2008)<br />
May 1 A day off for the workers!<br />
May 4 Mothers’s Day (2008)<br />
June 24 Joninės, or Midsummer<br />
July 6 Crowning of King Mindaugas (the first)<br />
August 15 Žolinė (Feast of the Assumption)<br />
November 1 All Saints’ Day<br />
December 25, 26 Christmas<br />
Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. April 17<br />
Moscow imposes an economic blockade.<br />
1991 Jan 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm the<br />
parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd insured the<br />
delegates were safe inside the walls. However, during the<br />
Soviets bid to reclaim the media by storming the Television<br />
Tower 14 people are killed. Feb 12 Iceland becomes the<br />
first country to recognise an independent Lithuania. July<br />
31 Seven border guards and policemen are killed at the<br />
Medininkai border checkpoint by Soviet special forces. Aug<br />
21 The Moscow putsch collapses. Soviet troops leave the<br />
buildings they’ve occupied since January. Lenin’s statue is<br />
removed from Lukiškių Square. Aug 29 Sweden becomes<br />
the first Western country to open an embassy in Vilnius.<br />
Sept 2 The United States recognise Lithuania, Latvia and<br />
Estonia. Sept 17 All three Baltic countries are re-admitted<br />
into the UN.<br />
1992 Feb 8 Lithuanians participate under their own flag at<br />
the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928.<br />
1993 June 25 Lithuania’s pre-war currency, the litas, is<br />
re-introduced. Aug 31 The last Russian soldier leaves<br />
Lithuania. Sep 4-8 Pope John Paul II visits.<br />
1994 Dec Vilnius Old Town joins the list of UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Sites.<br />
1997 July 1 The Lithuanian parliament (Seimas) passes a<br />
property restitution law, allowing pre-war property owners<br />
or their descendants to reclaim property nationalised under<br />
the Soviet regime.<br />
1998 Jan 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president. Adamkus,<br />
who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official at the<br />
Environmental Protection Agency in Chicago before returning<br />
to Lithuania to run for president. Dec 21 Seimas abolishes<br />
the death penalty in response to international pressure from<br />
the European Union.<br />
1999 Dec 13 Accession talks begin between Lithuania<br />
and the European Union with a projected date of 2004; a<br />
major stumbling block is the decommissioning of the Ignalina<br />
nuclear power plant.<br />
2000 At the Sydney Olympics Lithuania wins two gold and<br />
three bronze medals. The basketball team win its third<br />
history<br />
Olympic bronze coming within a few points of beating the<br />
American dream team for gold.<br />
2001 June 23-27 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania, visiting<br />
various sites in Vilnius and Kaunas.<br />
2002 The litas switches pegging from the US dollar to the<br />
euro on Feb 2, in readiness for EU accession, into which the<br />
country was invited to join on Oct 9. On Nov 22 Lithuania is<br />
also allowed to become a member of the happy family that<br />
is NATO. George Bush visits Vilnius the following day (the first<br />
ever US president to visit the city).<br />
2003 <strong>In</strong> the Jan 5 run-off election, Valdas Adamkus<br />
(Lithuanian president from 1998 - 2003) is voted out<br />
of office by 46-year-old right wing underdog Rolandas<br />
Paksas. May 10-11 A staggering 91% of the 64% of the<br />
population who turned out to vote, give a resounding ‘yes’<br />
to EU membership.<br />
2004 Jan-Apr Impeachment hearings take place as<br />
President Rolandas Paksas is found guilty of violating the<br />
Lithuanian constitution and his oath as president in his<br />
dealings with unsavoury Russian business partners. On<br />
Apr 2 Lithuania became a full-fledged member of NATO and<br />
the EU on May 1. The 77-year-old Valdas Adamkus wins the<br />
presidential election on June 27. <strong>In</strong> July Virgilijus Alekna,<br />
whose day job is protecting the president, wins a gold medal<br />
at the Athens Olympics in discus throwing. Dec 31 Ignalina<br />
Nuclear Power Plant says good-bye to one of the two unsafe,<br />
Chernobyl-type reactors.<br />
2005 Aug 2 Exhumation of 832 WWI German soldiers is<br />
completed from a burial site found beneath a Soviet built<br />
gymnasium in Panevėžys. A funeral is held in Klaipėda. Sep<br />
15 A Russian SU-27 fighter veers off course and crashes<br />
55km north of Kaunas.<br />
2006 May 16 Lithuania becomes the first EU member to<br />
have its application to adopt the euro currency rejected.<br />
<strong>In</strong>flation is the culprit. May 31 Prime Minister Algirdas<br />
Brazauskas and his coalition government resign as two<br />
ministers face allegations of corruption. Lithuania is<br />
without an elected government. July 4 Parliament approves<br />
Gediminas Kirkilas as the new Prime Minister. Oct 17-18<br />
Elizabeth II, The Queen of England, and her husband, the<br />
Duke of Edinburgh, visit Vilnius. She wears a hat.<br />
Basic data<br />
Population<br />
Lithuania 3,392,500 Vilnius 542,809<br />
Ethnic composition (Lithuania)<br />
Lithuanians 83.45% Poles 6.74% Russians 6.31%<br />
Belarusians 1.23% Ukrainians 0.65% Others 1.62%<br />
Territory<br />
65,303km 2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and<br />
the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland,<br />
peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest<br />
distance is 276km, east to west is 373km<br />
Borders<br />
Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia 453km<br />
Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km<br />
Longest river<br />
Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania)<br />
Largest lake<br />
Drūkščiai 4479ha<br />
Highest point<br />
Juozapinė 293.6m<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
10 Culture & events<br />
Festivals & Major events<br />
Lithuanians couldn’t organize an escape from a soggy<br />
brown paper bag, and many cultural events seem to be<br />
tossed together, in secret, ten minutes before they happen.<br />
Getting information and schedules, therefore, is difficult.<br />
We’ve listed a few choice events that we could get details<br />
about, but our list is by no means exhaustive. Keep your eye<br />
on the www.bilietai.lt and www.tiketa.lt websites for more<br />
events, or make some tinfoil antennae to tune into the<br />
thoughts of the local culture chaos organizers to see what’s<br />
going on.<br />
Bryan Adams World Tour 2007<br />
December 3 20:00 Utenos Pramogų Arena<br />
http://tinyurl.com/32bc9x<br />
Run To You, The Summer of ’69, I Do It For You ... there’s no<br />
doubt that the Adams family of songs will be familiar to you,<br />
but just in case you can come along and reacquaint yourself<br />
at this one-night-only concert. Fluff your hair up, shake the<br />
dust off the leather jacket (unless you’re a Lithuanian, in which<br />
case just leave your leather jacket on but leave your man bag<br />
at home) and rock along. Tickets range from 180-300Lt,<br />
which seems terribly expensive but ... all that hair gel costs<br />
something, you know.<br />
Chinese Circus<br />
December 9 17:00 Utenos Pramogų Arena<br />
http://tinyurl.com/33teaa<br />
They’re baaaaaack. If you want to see a dozen Chinese people<br />
riding one bicycle, you can either go to China or come along<br />
for this family-friendly Sunday afternoon spectacular. You<br />
can also see things involving plates balancing and spinning<br />
on sticks, people balancing and spinning on each other and<br />
further miscellaneous and acrobatic circus antics.<br />
Vanessa Mae<br />
December 11 20:00 Utenos Pramogų Arena<br />
http://tinyurl.com/2otqlv<br />
The startling young performer who single-handedly made<br />
the violin sexy. And made a lot of money doing it is coming<br />
to Vilnius for the third time. She will be here to slink about<br />
and stroke her strings and leave all those Soviet-educated<br />
classic violinists scratching their furry hats and tsk-tsking<br />
incomprehensibly. And good on her, too.<br />
Classic Pop Show: Ace of Base, Sandra & Alphaville<br />
December 14 20:00 Siemens Arena<br />
http://tinyurl.com/3c4gdl<br />
You know when you see a group of ‘remember-them?’ names<br />
on the one billing that you’re talking about a bunch of hasbeens<br />
that shone brightly and briefly and then went ‘plink’<br />
into obscurity like a cheap light bulb. This, however, may be<br />
an exception, as Ace of Base, clearly the headliners here,<br />
are claiming that this is a warm-up for a world tour and a<br />
new album in 2008. Marketing hype? Or a chance to get in<br />
first and see what could be 2008’s hottest come back. You<br />
decide. As for Sandra & Alphaville (is that one act, or two?),<br />
erm... whe haven’t got a clue who they are.<br />
Harlem Gospel Choir<br />
December 25 20:00 Vilnius Congress Concert Hall<br />
http://tinyurl.com/2q23em<br />
Christmas can be a depressing time in Vilnius for expats.<br />
It’s dark, you’re cold, the family is far away and there’re no<br />
decent after-Christmas sales to look forward to. But get<br />
along to see the legendary Harlem Gospel Choir and their<br />
hand-flapping, foot-stompin’, unproven-entity-praisin’ brand<br />
of high-spirited hysterics is bound to infect you and carry you<br />
along for a soul-liftin’ ride.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Romantic Winter Fests<br />
December 28 19:00 Vilnius Congress Concert Hall<br />
http://tinyurl.com/337lzh<br />
The publicity claims that “resplendent pearls of symphonic<br />
music and romantic holiday feelings are presented to You<br />
[sic], our dear listeners”. If that didn’t make you throw-up you<br />
might like to get along and see (and hear) Asmik Grigorian<br />
and Marian Talaba, whoever they are, performing ‘most<br />
beautiful’ love songs and opera arias and ... oh, excuse me,<br />
I’m going to be sick.<br />
Flaming Christmas Ice<br />
December 29 18:00 Utenos Pramogų Arena<br />
http://tinyurl.com/39l6eg<br />
This one comes around every year and involves people<br />
going round and round on ice. Actually, for those of us who<br />
don’t often get the chance to see top-notch ice-dancing, it<br />
is a sight not to be missed. The things these people can do<br />
without falling over are mind-boggling. To get a sneak-peek,<br />
YouTube ‘flaming ice champions’ – someone handy-cammed<br />
them last year.<br />
Moscow Stars on Ice<br />
December 31 15:00, 19:00 Siemens Arena<br />
http://tinyurl.com/2n2knv<br />
They started out doing an icy rendition of a silent movie, like<br />
a very chilled Charlie Chaplin kind of affair. Their repertoire<br />
has now grown to include all manner of slippery spectaculars<br />
such as Cinderella, Rasputin, Sounds of [the] Jungle, Mary<br />
Poppins, Mowgli and more. We hope they’ve sorted out the<br />
intellectual property issues for all of those, although it would<br />
be fun to see the Ms. Poppins vs. Someone in Tights legal battle.<br />
As for exactly which performance to expect here in Vilnius,<br />
as usual, the Lithuanians have failed to provide specifics.<br />
Art galleries<br />
Amatų gildija B-4, Pranciškonų 6, tel./fax 212 05 20, tel.<br />
+370 618 001 42, gildija@centras.lt, www.amatugildija.<br />
puslapiai.lt. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Arka C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel./fax 212 13 19, arka@<br />
artistsassociation.lt. A large space, and one of the best<br />
galleries in the Baltics. Many international exhibitions as well<br />
as some gifted locals on display. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Art Academy Gallery C-3, Pilies 44/2, tel./fax 261<br />
20 94, www.vda.lt. Photography and some inspired graphic<br />
art. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Artists’ Palace C-4, Didžioji 31 (Town Hall), tel./fax<br />
261 75 72. Modern painting (the stuff clever people pretend<br />
to understand), and the occasional piece of sculpture. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Arza Jewelery D-4, Stiklių 6, tel. +370 606 105 51,<br />
info@artele.lt, www.artele.lt. Meet Rolandas and Algina,<br />
a young couple who have bonded together in art, as well as<br />
romance. The duo design and sell their handmade jewellery<br />
when they are not in cahoots with several of Lithuania’s most<br />
famous designers. Stop by their crafty studio shop to see<br />
how they turn amber, linen, leather and stones into magical<br />
custom designs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Baltijos Gintaro Meno Centras (Amber centre)<br />
C-3, Šv. Mykolo 12, tel./fax 212 04 99, info@ambergallery.lt,<br />
www.ambergallery.lt. Next to Amber Gallery-Museum<br />
here one can find workshops held on request. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Contemporary Art Centre C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. 212<br />
19 45, fax 262 39 54, info@cac.lt, www.cac.lt. A<br />
funky space, featuring a whole host of very modern stuff.<br />
Discounts apply on Wednesdays. QOpen 12:00 - 19:30.<br />
Closed Mon. J
Christmas events<br />
Lighting of the Christmas tree<br />
December 8 19:00 Town Hall Square<br />
The smaller (and, in our opinion, more pretty) Christmas<br />
tree in the Town Hall (Rotušės) Square will be lit onDecember<br />
8, one week after the Dalek-robot-fake-o-rific Christmas<br />
cone thingy in the Cathedral square.<br />
Concert for the deaf<br />
December 21 19:00 Sts. Johns’ Church<br />
Simultaneous signing and singing. A lovely idea that<br />
sounds/looks like it will be interesting for everyone, not just<br />
those with hearing difficulties. Ask Mr. Google to help you<br />
learn a few signs before you go so you can sign along.<br />
Christmas concerts<br />
December 16 – January 6<br />
While we can’t offer any specifics (are you noticing a theme<br />
there?) we can advise you to keep your ears alert for<br />
sounds of music spilling out of Vilnius’s many churches.<br />
Free concerts are commonplace at Christmas.<br />
Lighting of the TV Tower Christmas tree<br />
December 25 16:00<br />
Each year, strings of lights are draped from the disc bit of<br />
the TV Tower to form a sort of a Christmas tree shape.<br />
At 16:00 on Christmas day, the lights will be lit, probably<br />
with accompanying fireworks and hullabaloo. This is one<br />
of the tallest (and most short-lived) Christmas trees you<br />
will ever see.<br />
Festive Christmas concert<br />
December 26 19:00 Town Hall Square<br />
Everyone turns up to this one, including some of Lithuania’s<br />
favourite ‘stars’. No one knows exactly who will perform, but<br />
it may well involve the bloke with short, white, spiky hair who<br />
looks like he’s been starved and electrocuted; someone<br />
from a reality show involving lots of arguments and singing;<br />
and, if we’ve been very good this year, Mamontovas, the<br />
singing corpse. <strong>In</strong> any case, it’s a family-and-friends kind of<br />
Culture & events<br />
event that puts everyone in a good mood. Except the small<br />
swarm of Vilnius Wombles, who have to scurry about with<br />
wicker brooms cleaning everything up afterwards.<br />
New Year non-concert<br />
December 31 23:59-ish Cathedral Square<br />
Normally, an explosion of festivities and a cracking concert<br />
take place in the Cathedral Square to welcome the new<br />
year. This year, the Mayor has decided to cancel this event,<br />
presumably because people have a habit of getting drunk<br />
and trying to blow each others’ heads off with fireworks.<br />
Still, people will probably show up this year anyway. Attend<br />
at your own risk.<br />
Procession of the Three Kings<br />
January 6 16:30 Cathedral Square<br />
Three tall and wonky Kings will meander from the Gates<br />
of Dawn down to the nativity scene in the Cathedral<br />
Square, where they will say hello to the baby Jesus with<br />
the oversized head, and then do something involving gifts<br />
and donkeys and so forth.<br />
Tree inferno<br />
January 6 17:00 Teachers’ House<br />
Drag your old tree along to the courtyard at the Teachers’<br />
House (A/B-3) and chuck it on the big fire. (Unless it’s<br />
plastic, in which case you should keep it for next year.) You<br />
will be rewarded with hot tea and jolly festivities.<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
11
12<br />
Culture & events<br />
Delmonas H-3, J.Basanavičiaus 16/5 (entrance on<br />
Mindaugo), tel. 279 12 82/+370 653 826 47, reginosdelmonas@gmail.com.<br />
Regina was the first artist to open<br />
the doors. She specializes in painting on silk and making<br />
batik. Every silk scarf and painting in the store is handmade,<br />
and unique. Workshops are held on request. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Exhibition Hall C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. 261 95 16, info@<br />
galerija-lds.lt, www.galerija-lds.lt. Paintings, plus a fascinating<br />
little souvenir, art and bookshop. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Jonas Bugailiškis Art Studio C-5, Aušros Vartų 17-10,<br />
tel. 261 76 66/+370 652 366 13, jonas.bugailiskis@<br />
gmail.com. A local mini-celebrity knocking out all manner of<br />
fabulous wooden eccentricities based on a combination of<br />
traditional Lithuanian folk art and the contents of a very unique<br />
mind. Knock on the door to see if he’s in. J<br />
Kairė-Dešinė C-3, Latako 3, tel./fax 261 19 95, grafcentras@gmail.com.<br />
Young, contemporary. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Kalvystės Amatų Galerija (Smithery) I-4, Užupio<br />
26, tel. 215 37 57, galerija@vilniauskalviai.lt, www.<br />
vilniauskalviai.lt. Workshops on special request. QOpen<br />
10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Lietuvos Aidas’ Gallery B-4, Žemaitijos 11, tel./fax<br />
212 47 27, info@lagalerija.lt, www.lagalerija.lt. More<br />
contemporary art. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Manufaktūra Jūratė C-4, Didžioji 20/1, tel. 231 40<br />
05, manufaktura@jurate.eu, www.jurate.eu. For different<br />
types of textile workshops call in advance. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Medals Gallery C-3, Šv. Jono 11, tel./fax 212 41 54,<br />
jonogalerija@yahoo.com. A whole host of changing exhibitions<br />
to suit all tastes. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00<br />
- 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Meno Niša A-3, J.Basanavičiaus 1/13, tel. 231 38 11,<br />
menonisa@freemail.lt ; menonisa@gmail.com. This niche<br />
shop is deceptively advertised as a goldsmith’s guild gallery.<br />
Find several rooms displaying enamel jewellery, styles ranging<br />
from traditional to questionably wearable, and various original<br />
art works. Many artists’ pieces are on display, and all can be<br />
purchased. Workshop Tue 13:00 - 17:00. For workshops at<br />
other time call in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00<br />
- 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Molio Laumė (Black Ceramics Workshop Gallery)<br />
A-4/5, Naugarduko 20, tel. +370 699 424 56, eugenijp@<br />
takas.lt, www.ceramics.w3.lt. Relocated and reinvigorated<br />
with new (recently graduated) talent, and plenty of hauntingly<br />
beautiful and alluring black ceramics. Workshops are held on<br />
special request.QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
National Library G-3, Gedimino 51, tel. 239 85 22,<br />
fax 249 61 29, www.lnb.lt. A great location for some truly<br />
inspiring work. Closed every last day of the month. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Photograph Gallery C-4, Didžioji 19, tel. 261 17<br />
02, fax 232 80 81, info@remeliudizainas.lt, www.<br />
remeliudizainas.lt. A small, two-floor gallery of mostly local<br />
photography, old and new. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Prospekto Galerija G-3, Gedimino 43, tel. 261 83 38,<br />
fax 261 16 65, info@photography.lt, www.photography.<br />
lt. A small space, covering the whole range of photographic<br />
possibilities. If you like what you see, a lot of the work on<br />
display is for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Russian Art C-3, Bokšto 4/2, tel. 212 32 36. Nesting<br />
dolls (matrioshkas), gzhel porcelain, shawls from Pavlovo-<br />
Posad, lacquer boxes. Russian and Soviet art. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. J<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Sauluva C-3, Literatų 3, tel. 212 12 27, info@sauluva.<br />
lt, www.sauluva.lt. A place to learn to make traditional<br />
Verbas and Easter egss. Workshops are held on Mondays and<br />
Thursdays 11:00 - 18:00 (verbas) and Wednesdays 11:00<br />
- 15:00 (Easter egg). Better to call in advance. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Tadas H-2, A.Juozapavičiaus 3 -79, tel. +370 685 555<br />
25/275 44 51, fax 215 44 51, guttadas@takas.lt,<br />
www.tadasgutauskas.lt. A truly artistic usage of gallery<br />
space, featuring the sculptures and paintings of this talented<br />
Lithuanian visionary. From interior design to fashion, the full<br />
spectrum of his artwork is on hand inside. Call them before<br />
going there.<br />
Tautodailininko Dirbtuvė (Folk Artist’s Workshop-<br />
Showroom) G-4, J.Basanavičiaus 29 (basement), tel.<br />
+370 614 431 87/+370 686 108 04, tautodailes.dirbtuve@gmail.com.<br />
Klaidas was a fine lawyer until he found<br />
a pair of scissors in the street and became a paper cutter.<br />
Klaidas’s cuttings are now sold framed, and prices start at<br />
20Lt. Paper cutting workshop are held on Fridays from 17:00.<br />
QOpen 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Užupio Galerija D-3, Užupio 3, tel. 231 23 18/+370<br />
682 399 46, uzupiogalerija@mail.lt, www.uzupiogalerija.<br />
lt. A tiny gallery, dealing in exclusive and rather beautiful<br />
metal and enamel works from a range of Lithuanian artists.<br />
The best thing about this place is that it’s a working gallery.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the main space itself there’s all the kit necessary for the<br />
goldsmith, and you’ll often find somebody there working away<br />
at creating something new and lovely. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Užupio meno inkubatorius D-3, Užupio 2, tel. 262 00<br />
83/+370 611 226 75, umigalera@gmail.com, www.umi.<br />
lt. A tumbledown house on the riverbank, brightly painted and<br />
with a few works in the garden. Being pretty much 100 per<br />
cent wacky, there’s usually nobody there, there are no official<br />
working hours. QOpen 16:00 - 20:00. J<br />
Vartai B-3, Vilniaus 39 (Teacher’s House), tel./fax 212<br />
29 49, galerija@galerijavartai.lt, www.galerijavartai.lt.<br />
The most prestigious art gallery in Vilnius. Check the website<br />
for upcoming exhibitions. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00<br />
- 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Verpstė C-3, Žydų 2, tel. 262 58 87, www.tautodaile.<br />
vardai.net. Amber, linen, wooden souvenirs, some art naive<br />
paintings. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Sun. J<br />
Znad Wilii C-3, Išganytojo 2/4, tel./fax 212 30 20,<br />
galeriaznadwilii@gmail.com, www.galeriaznadwilii.<br />
com. A Polish art gallery displaying and selling paintings,<br />
books and the newspaper Znad Wilii. QOpen 12:00 - 19:30.<br />
Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Cinemas<br />
Coca-Cola Plaza G-4, Savanorių 7, tel. 1567, www.<br />
forumcinemas.lt. Ultra swanky multiplex, featuring 12<br />
screens, 1,823 seats (50 for disabled viewers), VIP salon and<br />
Presidential Lounge and Čili Pizza. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00.<br />
Forum Cinemas Akropolis G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1567,<br />
www.forumcinemas.lt. Mostly popular Hollywood films,<br />
as one would expect in a shopping centre. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 22:00.<br />
Skalvija H-3, Goštauto 2/15, tel. 261 05 05, fax 268 58<br />
32, info@skalvija.lt, www.skalvija.lt. Recently renovated,<br />
but still the right place to look for more artistic films. Avoid row<br />
eight if you’ve got legs.QOpen 15:00 - 21:00.<br />
For cinema schedules see<br />
www.cinema.lt
Concert halls<br />
Music Academy G-3, Gedimino 42, tel. 261 01 44,<br />
www.lmta.lt. Remember Fame? Well this is the Lithuanian<br />
version. There are often some great concerts held here.<br />
<strong>In</strong>formation is posted by the entrance.<br />
National Philharmonic C-5, Aušros Vartų 5, tel. 266<br />
52 16/266 52 59, fax 266 52 66, info@filharmonija.lt,<br />
www.nationalphilharmonic.eu. Q Box office open 10:00<br />
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Siemens Arena Ozo 14, tel. 247 75 50. The biggest and<br />
most modern concert and sport events’ arena. Box office<br />
open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Utenos Pramogų Arena E-1, Ąžuolyno 9, tel. 195 55.<br />
Box office open 12:00-20:00.<br />
Vilnius Congress Concert Hall B-1, Vilniaus 6/14,<br />
tel. 261 88 28, kasa@lvso.lt, www.lvso.lt. Deceptively<br />
bland on the outside, this is actually a rather fine concert<br />
hall, featuring some of the best acoustics in the city. Box<br />
office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
J<br />
Opera<br />
Opera & Ballet Theatre H-3, A.Vienuolio 1, tel. 262<br />
07 27, fax 262 35 03, info@opera.lt, www.opera.lt. A<br />
stunning construction opened in 1974 and offering the whole<br />
range of works. Worth a look inside even if you don’t plan on<br />
attending anything. Phone number for booking tickets: +370<br />
615 510 00. Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
Theatres<br />
Arts Printing House (Menų spaustuvė) D-2,<br />
Šiltadaržio 6, tel./fax 261 08 05, info@menuspaustuve.<br />
lt, www.menuspaustuve.lt. This off-beat performing arts<br />
center which found shelter in the former Soviet printing house<br />
has set on the ambition of becoming a leading arts and creative<br />
industries center. While the complex of old buildings is<br />
going through reconstruction, the Arts Printing House hosts<br />
provocative drama, dance and interdisciplinary projects<br />
as well as various performing arts festivals in its grungy<br />
premises. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Domino Theatre G-4, Savanorių 7 (“Coca Cola Plaza”<br />
cinema), tel. 263 95 70, fax 278 87 82, info@dominoteatras.lt,<br />
www.dominoteatras.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lėlė Puppet Theatre C-4, Arklių 5, tel. 262 86 78,<br />
info@teatraslele.lt, www.teatraslele.lt. This inspired<br />
puppet theatre for children of all ages has been charming<br />
audiences in Vilnius since the company was founded way back<br />
in 1958. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Meno fortas D-2, Bernardinų 8/8, tel. 268 58 16, fax<br />
268 58 17, info@menofortas.lt, www.menofortas.lt.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
National Drama Theatre B-2, Gedimino 4, tel. 262<br />
97 71, info@teatras.lt, www.teatras.lt. Look for the three<br />
muses guarding the entrance. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Russian Drama Theatre H-4, J.Basanavičiaus 13,<br />
tel. 262 05 52. QOpen 12:00 - 18:30, Sun 11:00 - 18:30.<br />
Closed Mon.<br />
The State Small Theatre of Vilnius (Valstybinis<br />
Vilniaus Mažasis Teatras) A-1, Gedimino 22, tel. 249<br />
98 69, fax 261 31 95, info@vmt.lt, www.vmt.lt. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 18:30, Sun 13:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. J<br />
Youth Theatre C-4, Arklių 5, tel. 261 61 26, fax 262<br />
55 58, info@jaunimoteatras.lt, www.jaunimoteatras.lt.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Culture & events<br />
Opera<br />
National Drama Theatre pretending to be a brothel<br />
December<br />
1 18:30 Ch. W. Gluck opera Orfeo et Euridice<br />
2 15:00 L. Vilkončius ballet Peter Pan<br />
5 18:30 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />
6 18:30 J. F. Halevy opera La Juive<br />
7 18:30 L. A. Minkus ballet Don Quixote<br />
8 18:30 S. Prokofiev ballet Romeo and Juliet<br />
9 18:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />
12 18:30 J. Strauss operetta Wiener Blut<br />
13 18:30 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Sleeping Beauty<br />
14<br />
to the music by Tchaikovsky, Bizet, Adam,<br />
18:30<br />
Schnittke ballet Red Giselle<br />
15 18:30 G. Verdi opera Un Ballo <strong>In</strong> Maschera<br />
16 18:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />
18 18:30 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />
19 18:30 A. Adam ballet Giselle<br />
20 18:30 J. Strauss operetta Wiener Blut<br />
26 15:00 Christmas concert<br />
27 18:00 Christmas concert<br />
31 18:30 L. A. Minkus ballet La Bayadere<br />
January<br />
3 18:30 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />
4 18:30 G. Verdi opera Aida<br />
5 18:30 L. A. Minkus ballet La Bayadere<br />
6 12:00 J. Gaižauskas opera Burattino<br />
9 18:30 F. Lehar operetta Die Lustige Witwe<br />
10 18:30 P. Tchaikovsky ballet Swan Lake<br />
11 18:30 Ch. W. Gluck opera Orfeo et Euridice<br />
12<br />
to the music by Tchaikovsky, Bizet, Adam,<br />
18:30<br />
Schnittke ballet Red Giselle<br />
13 12:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker<br />
17 18:30 R. Strauss opera Salome<br />
18 18:30 L. A. Minkus ballet La Bayadere<br />
19 18:30 J. F. Halevy opera La Juive<br />
20<br />
B. Pawlowski ballet Snow White and The<br />
12:00<br />
Seven Dwarfs<br />
23 18:30 G. Verdi opera Rigoletto<br />
24 18:30 P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Sleeping Beauty<br />
25 18:30 G. Verdi opera Un Ballo <strong>In</strong> Maschera<br />
26 18:00 R. Wagner opera Die Walkure<br />
27 17:00 R. Wagner opera Die Walkure<br />
30 18:30 R. Shchedrin ballet Anna Karenina<br />
31 18:30<br />
F. Mendelssohn-Bartholdy / G. Bizet – R.<br />
Shchedrin ballet A Midsummer Night’s<br />
Dream/ Carmen<br />
Performances take place at National Opera and Ballet<br />
Theatre. More info at www.opera.lt<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
1
1 where to stAy<br />
Finding a place to stay in the capital of Lithuania is like<br />
finding a nincompoop in its parliament. Easy. Options<br />
range from international standard hotels, through the<br />
homely comforts of various bed-and-breakfast type<br />
options, and on to Japanese style bed pods. Visiting rock<br />
stars can throw televisions out of the windows of at least<br />
a couple of hi-rise high standard hotels (if they manage to<br />
work out how to open the windows, which is unlikely) and<br />
scrimp-and-save backpackers can smell each others feet<br />
in a half-dozen or so fun hostels. The only things missing<br />
are the lunatic luxury options and five-star grass huts<br />
standing on sticks above tropical lagoons.<br />
We’ve not listed everything here, but we have tried to list<br />
everything good. If you are tempted by apartments and<br />
flats that turn up on the internet (but not in our listings) be<br />
aware that you can arrive to a mobile phone number that<br />
doesn’t work. Unregistered apartments may be great, and<br />
they’re certainly cheap, but because they are just private<br />
flats being used as a means of earning undeclared income<br />
they’re often impossible to find. We’re not saying that all<br />
accommodation providers that we’ve not listed are scams<br />
– some of them are just crap – but do take care.<br />
Upmarket<br />
AAA Mano Liza B-4, Ligoninės 5, tel. 212 22 25/212<br />
25 45, fax 212 26 08, hotel@aaa.lt, www.hotelinvilnius.<br />
lt. Pretty, twee and tucked away in a central but private<br />
location. So it’s just like Mona Lisa’s knickers. Expect family-run<br />
fastidiousness, little flowers on the wallpaper, and<br />
silk embroidered bed clothes. They’ve got cosiness and<br />
homeliness down to a fine art. The exquisite other-worldly<br />
decor and atmosphere extends beyond the rooms to the<br />
common areas such as the lovely bar making the whole<br />
establishment a delightful retreat. Q8 rooms (1 single<br />
220 - 280Lt, 2 doubles 240 - 300Lt, 5 suites 320 - 420Lt).<br />
JA6GKXW hhhh<br />
Artis Centrum Hotels B-2, Liejyklos 11/23, tel. 266<br />
03 66/266 03 63, fax 266 03 77, artis@centrumhotels.<br />
com, www.centrumhotels.com. What looks like a cutesy<br />
fairy-tale conservatory hides a vast range of pleasant and<br />
well appointed rooms - all with air conditioning, satellite and<br />
pay TV, safes, minibars, heated floors in the bathrooms<br />
and, in one case, a 2.4m wide bed big enough for Snow<br />
White and the seventeen dwarves. Also tucked away in here<br />
is an exquisite swimming pool, cosy conference facilities<br />
where even nasty negotiations will be calmed, and a small<br />
gym. Some rooms overlook the grounds of the Presidential<br />
Palace, so do let us know if you see anything interesting next<br />
door. Q65 rooms (11 singles 480Lt, 50 doubles 550Lt, 4<br />
suites 760Lt). PJHARUFLGKDXCW<br />
hhhh<br />
Atrium C-3, Pilies 10, tel. 210 77 77, fax 210 77 70,<br />
hotel@atrium.lt, www.atrium.lt. <strong>Your</strong> mum would say: ‘Oh,<br />
I can tell it was decorated by a man.’ The emphasis is on<br />
simplicity and space. <strong>In</strong>stead of wasting money on flowers,<br />
cushions and decorative twigs, they’ve just bought a huge<br />
bed, a swanky leather couch and a big telly. Brilliant. Minibars<br />
and bathrooms are well stocked, and there’re wireless<br />
phones and internet. The single and standard double rooms<br />
are nice, if a little pokey, but the suites and apartments are<br />
awesome, and worth paying that bit extra for. Alll this in an<br />
unbeatable location. Bloke heaven. Q29 rooms (3 singles<br />
251 - 335Lt, 17 doubles 309 - 480Lt, 4 suites 435 - 650Lt,<br />
5 apartments 555 - 1053Lt). PJHAULGKDW<br />
hhhh<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
O Casino H Conference facilities<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking<br />
R LAN connection G Non-smoking rooms<br />
K Restaurant J Old town location<br />
D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />
I Fireplace W Wireless <strong>In</strong>ternet access<br />
X Smoking section<br />
Barbacan Palace D-4, Bokšto 19/ Šv. Kazimiero 12,<br />
tel. 266 08 40, fax 266 08 41, barbacan@centrokubas.<br />
lt, www.barbacan.lt. Bright and airy rooms sprinkled<br />
with some nice little touches that give them just a hint of a<br />
rustic touch. Ask for a room with a view so that after you’ve<br />
finished mucking about with the satellite television, enjoying<br />
free internet access and trying to work out if the antique<br />
furniture is really old or was just whipped with a rusty chain<br />
to make it look old, you can enjoy the lovely aspect offered<br />
by the unique hillside location.Q33 rooms (23 singles €105,<br />
23 doubles €120, 6 suites €125 - 140, 3 apartments €150).<br />
PJHARUFLGKDXW hhhh<br />
Best Western Vilnius H-2, Konstitucijos 14, tel. 273<br />
95 95, fax 273 95 00, office@vilniushotel.eu, www.<br />
vilniushotel.eu. Recent renovation has hidden the fact that<br />
this is a dowdy old box modelled on Brezhnev’s forehead. It’s<br />
steady, reliable, pleasant, but not outstanding at anything.<br />
Rooms are beige-and-olive bland, but have all the necessary<br />
comforts and amenities. Excellent conference facilities and<br />
free WiFi throughout. Q114 rooms (12 singles €116, 97<br />
doubles €130, 4 suites €175 - 195, 1 apartment €210 - 230).<br />
PHA6FGKDXCW hhhh<br />
City Park B-2, L.Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 3, tel. 210 74<br />
61/212 35 15, fax 210 74 60, citypark@citypark.lt,<br />
www.citypark.lt. The professionalism with which City Park<br />
cater to every need is somehow matched with the homely<br />
comforts of the rooms. All have free internet, kettles, satellite<br />
and pay television, and heated bathroom floors (fully<br />
adjustable, in case you like cold feet). The best bit, however,<br />
is the view - a wonderful vista of the Cathedral square.Q77<br />
rooms (20 singles 370Lt, 51 doubles 400Lt, 6 suites 500Lt).<br />
JHARULGKDXCW hhhh<br />
Congress H-3, Vilniaus 2/15, tel. 269 19 19, fax 251<br />
42 80, info@congress.lt, www.congress.lt. If this hotel<br />
was a person, it would proudly strut about and puff its chest<br />
out. And rightly so. Everything has a neat, tidy confidence<br />
about it, and even if you’re in a standard room, the place<br />
has an elegant yet business-class feel about it. We also<br />
like the free WiFi. After a good night’s rest you’ll be ready to<br />
take on the town, and will find yourself conveniently located<br />
mid-way between Old Town and the new business district<br />
north of the river. Q80 rooms (21 singles 180 - 300Lt, 55<br />
doubles 260 - 400Lt, 3 suites 560Lt, 1 apartment 1000Lt).<br />
PJHAFLGKDXW hhhh<br />
1Lt = €0.29; GBP0.20; US$0.43<br />
(23 Nov 2007)
Conti B-5, Raugyklos 7/2, tel. 251 41 11, fax 251 41<br />
00, reservation@contihotel.lt, www.contihotel.lt. Lots<br />
of old-school charm from coffee-and-cream décor and creakyleather<br />
couches. Oh, hang on, that’s just in the expensive suite.<br />
If you stay in normal rooms you’ll have to put up with a more<br />
subdued version of the same, but you’ll still be very comfortable.<br />
While not right in the centre of Old Town, the location<br />
is still quite good.Q88 rooms (17 singles 230 - 330Lt, 68<br />
doubles 460 - 520Lt, 1 suite 695Lt, 2 apartments 950Lt).<br />
PJHARUFLGKDX hhhh<br />
Crowne Plaza Vilnius F-4, M.K.Čiurlionio 84, tel. 274<br />
34 00, fax 274 34 20, reservation@cpvilnius.com, www.<br />
cpvilnius.com. Someone thought it would be a fine idea to<br />
stick a big glass tower right on the edge of a vast forest-like<br />
park. And, if you get a room overlooking all that greenery, it<br />
is indeed a very fine idea. While it’s not centrally located, this<br />
business hotel is ideally suited to those with a limousine at<br />
their beck and call, a healthy taxi budget or a busy schedule<br />
that will require them to stay in the conference hall all day. The<br />
restaurant on the 16th floor offers superb views, especially<br />
when you look out of the windows. WiFi on some floors, so<br />
request it when booking if it’s important to you. Q108 rooms<br />
(50 singles €79 - 159, 50 doubles €94 - 174, 3 apartments<br />
€348, 55 business class singles/doubles €109 - 204).<br />
PHARUFLGKDXC hhhhh<br />
Dvaras B-1, Tilto 3-1, tel. 210 73 70, fax 261 87 83,<br />
hotel@dvaras.lt, www.dvaras.lt. Not really a manor<br />
house, but only due to the lack of tweedy toffs chasing foxes<br />
and smoking pipes and shooting clay pigeons. It is like a<br />
manor house inside because it’s all jammed and jumbled,<br />
with floral carpet, arched doorways, tapestries hanging<br />
from the walls and all manner of knick-knacks rounding out<br />
a sort of cluttered comfort. While all the services are there<br />
(internet, filtered water, heated bathroom floors) the best<br />
aspect is the tucked-away location just a short walk from<br />
the Cathedral. A nice little discovery.Q8 rooms (3 singles<br />
€75 - 120, 3 doubles €110 - 130, 2 suites €160 - 180).<br />
PJHARLGKX hhhh<br />
Embassy Hotel Balatonas F-2, Latvių 38, tel. 272<br />
22 50, fax 272 21 34, info@embassyhotel.lt, www.<br />
embassyhotel.lt. Close to perfect, other than the fact<br />
that it’s a bit far-flung and not very close to the centre of<br />
town. This recently renovated hotel is clean, crisp and fresh<br />
- ideal for anyone who wants to relax in a quiet location or<br />
make television commercials about homewares. Rooms are<br />
modestly but comfortably decorated with a tidy style and<br />
the in-house café-bar-restaurant is glass-roof open and airy.<br />
Free internet throughout. An excellent choice for anyone who<br />
has business that requires attendance at any of the nearby<br />
embassies, or … ahem … staying in your room all day. Q28<br />
rooms (5 singles 320Lt, 19 doubles 380Lt, 4 suites 420Lt).<br />
PHARULGKDXW hhhh<br />
Europa Royale Vilnius C-5, Aušros Vartų 6, tel. 266<br />
07 70, fax 261 20 00, vilnius@europaroyale.com,<br />
www.europaroyale.com. Lithuania has its own version of<br />
Elvis. Or is it Garry Glitter? <strong>In</strong> any case, they have a sparkly,<br />
grinning pop star called Cicinas (sit-sin-us) who has more<br />
money than taste, makes little girls swoon and has been<br />
known to stay in this hotel. The suite offers a confusion<br />
of silliness and luxury (a round bed, billowing curtains,<br />
vast bathroom, sculptured ceiling and mysterious sequins<br />
behind the dresser) but the standard rooms are spot-on<br />
for sensible sumptuousness without the pop star prices.<br />
Excellent location. Q39 rooms (2 singles €90 - 110, 24<br />
doubles €90 - 110, 9 suites €110 - 135, 4 apartments €250).<br />
PJHAR6ULGKXW hhhh<br />
where to stAy<br />
Star spangled banter<br />
This guide uses the star system as defined by<br />
the Lithuanian Department of Tourism, in which<br />
stars are awarded for amenities offered, and don’t<br />
necessarily reflect the quality of those amenities<br />
or the standard of service provided.<br />
Grotthuss B-4, Ligoninės 7, tel. 266 03 22, fax 266 03<br />
23, info@grotthusshotel.com, www.grotthusshotel.com.<br />
There are Spanish tiles, heated floors and emergency buttons in<br />
the bathrooms, goose feathers in the beds, plush carpets on the<br />
floors and an arty attention to detail everywhere that somehow<br />
evokes the romance of travel. Keeping things practical, there<br />
are also sensible facilities like internet connection, minibars, tea<br />
and coffee making kit (in some rooms), climate control and nice,<br />
friendly and efficient service. A beautiful boutique hotel indeed.<br />
Q20 rooms (5 singles €128, 3 suites €220 - 250, 12 superior<br />
double €180). JHARLGKXW hhhh<br />
Grybas House C-5, Aušros Vartų 3a, tel. 261 96<br />
95/264 74 74, fax 212 24 16, info@grybashouse.com,<br />
www.grybashouse.com. A small and rather charming hotel<br />
tucked away in a quiet courtyard including many perks for the<br />
discerning traveller, such as a homelike atmosphere, filtered<br />
water and secure parking. The family who run the place take it<br />
upon themselves to ensure that guests have a pleasant stay,<br />
and can arrange tours of Vilnius and other Baltic destinations<br />
on request. They’ll even pick you up from the airport for no<br />
extra charge. Extra person €15. Q10 rooms (2 singles €81, 3<br />
suites €96 - 110, 1 apartment €116 - 130, 4 singles/doubles<br />
€81 - 96). PJAULGW hhh<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n I-2, Šeimyniškių 1, tel. 210 30 00, fax 210 30<br />
01, holiday-inn@ibc.lt, www.holidayinnvilnius.lt. They’ve<br />
got pillow menus. While that might sound suspicious, it actually<br />
means you can select from a range of different pillows. It’s<br />
a good example of the attention to detail that makes staying<br />
here a real pleasure. There are also sound-proof windows with<br />
blackout curtains, heated bathroom floors and internet in every<br />
room (40Lt for 24-hours). Décor is minty fresh, and all standard<br />
rooms are exactly the same size to prevent fights breaking out<br />
among tour groups. Conference facilities are very good, accommodating<br />
up to 250 suits. A very trim, tidy, professionally run<br />
and well thought-out hotel. Q134 rooms (23 singles €140, 96<br />
doubles €170, 1 apartment €280, 14 executive suites €190<br />
- 220). PHARUFLGKDXW hhhh<br />
IdaBasar C-5, Subačiaus 1, tel. 262 29 09, fax 262 78<br />
34, hotel@idabasar.lt, www.idabasar.lt. While the rooms<br />
are a bit old fashioned, bland and basic, the location of this<br />
hotel is superb. <strong>In</strong> fact, the only way to leave this hotel without<br />
seeing something interesting would be to dig a tunnel. Having<br />
breakfast in the glass box cafe is also lovely. A good option for<br />
anyone not planning to spend all day in their room. Q7 rooms<br />
(3 doubles 342 - 380Lt, 2 suites 405 - 450Lt, 2 apartments<br />
486 - 540Lt). JALGKX hhhh<br />
Le Méridien Villon Resort & Convention Centre<br />
19km north of Vilnius on the Vilnius-Riga A2 highway,<br />
Ežeraičio village, Vilnius district, tel. 273 97 00, fax 273<br />
97 30, reservation@lemeridien.lt, www.lemeridien.lt.<br />
Out of town and, in terms of spaciousness, views and<br />
facilities, in a class of its own. Many rooms have been<br />
recently renovated and offer aromatic furniture and stillbouncy<br />
carpet. All rooms sport marbled bathrooms, climate<br />
control, minibar, writing desk, satellite television and views<br />
over vast and lovely grounds. Conference facilities dazzle<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
1
1<br />
where to stAy<br />
up to 3,000 delegates. The spa, pool and sports centre<br />
is also superb. Check the photos on the website to really<br />
appreciate what you’ll be getting here. Q 189 rooms<br />
(167 doubles from €100, 12 business class rooms from<br />
€120, 9 apartments from €175, royal apartments from<br />
€430). PTHAR6UIFLGKDXCW<br />
hhhhh<br />
Mabre Residence D-3, Maironio 13, tel. 212 20<br />
87/212 21 95, fax 212 22 40, mabre@mabre.lt, www.<br />
mabre.lt. This hotel is a secreted sanctuary tucked between<br />
Old Town and the funky Užupis area, and is crowded<br />
only by churches. It’s hard to imagine a better spot, and<br />
the former Monastery courtyard is gorgeous. Rooms<br />
are chocolate box tidy and have a homely charm that is<br />
enhanced by the fact that everything is right there - free<br />
internet, a kettle, well stocked minibar, satellite television<br />
and vertical striped wallpaper that makes you feel tall and<br />
dignified even while flopped on the bed scratching your<br />
belly. Q41 rooms (10 singles 388 - 408Lt, 25 doubles 458<br />
- 576Lt, 4 suites 608 - 696Lt, 2 apartments 808 - 992Lt).<br />
JHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh<br />
Narutis C-3, Pilies 24, tel. 212 28 94, fax 262 28 82,<br />
info@narutis.com, www.narutis.com. The charming arched<br />
entrance hides a myriad of very pleasant rooms, all touched<br />
with the sort of floral formality that can also be found in the<br />
glossy pages Country Life magazine and in the dreams of Hyacinth<br />
Bucket. All five-star standard appointments and facilities<br />
are present and accounted for and have their socks pulled up.<br />
We especially like the thermometers in every room<br />
- it makes you feel that you’re in the care of someone<br />
who is properly fussy, pays attention to every little detail and<br />
wishes for nothing more than your comfort. The apartment<br />
is jaw-droppingly glorious, and the conference-cum-party hall<br />
and pool, sauna and spa room are superb. Dogs are allowed,<br />
but we suspect that cream Labradors and corgis would be<br />
especially welcome. Q50 rooms (8 singles €160 - 170, 25<br />
doubles €200 - 210, 2 apartments €435 - 640, 7 junior suites<br />
€290 - 310, 11 deluxe suites €260). PTJHAR6U�<br />
FLGKDXCW hhhhh<br />
Nesė Pramogų Bankas Guest House A-2,<br />
Pamėnkalnio 7/8, tel. +370 700 555 55, fax 262 19<br />
93, pramogubankas@nese.lt, www.nesepb.lt. A secret<br />
coup (or is it ‘coop’?) of tidy rooms tucked away at the top<br />
of this glistening great casino and entertainment complex.<br />
The rooms lack minibars and a few other amenities—they’re<br />
just simple-yet-comfortable sleeping boxes, really—but<br />
food, drink, slot machines and a couple of nightclubs are<br />
all only a phone call or a short elevator ride away. Basically<br />
this is a classy little crash pad smack-dab in the throbbing<br />
heart of the city’s greatest amusement monolith. Q (7<br />
rooms: singles/doubles 320 - 340Lt, 2 triples 370Lt).<br />
POJARLGKXhhhh<br />
Novotel B-1, Gedimino 16, tel. 266 62 00, fax 266<br />
62 01, h5209@accor.com, www.novotel.com. While<br />
a bit visually overbearing on the outside, the Novotel<br />
recipe ensures comfort and excellence within. There’s a<br />
tidy style that appears to be minimalist, but actually offers<br />
everything you could want and some things you don’t (like<br />
a television speaker in the bathroom). The kettles in the<br />
rooms are worth a mention simply because they are rare<br />
in Vilnius, as is having a separate bath and shower. Views<br />
from the top floor rooms are outstanding. The location<br />
can’t be beaten, but the architect should be. Q159 rooms<br />
(112 singles €60 - 145, 159 doubles €70 - 155, 3 apartments<br />
€200). PTJHA6UFLGKDXW<br />
hhhh<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Slept in? Missed the breakfast buffet?<br />
Turn to page 36 for the best breakfast<br />
in town.<br />
Radisson SAS Astorija C-4, Didžioji 35/2, tel. 212<br />
01 10, fax 212 17 62, sales.vilnius@radissonsas.com,<br />
www.vilnius.radissonsas.com. One could list amenities<br />
and facilities endlessly. Every room has a safe, tea and<br />
coffee kit, iron and trouser press, heated floors and a selection<br />
of irresistibly pinchable little lotions and potions in the<br />
bathrooms, free internet access and more. Business class<br />
rooms and suites have espresso machines, complimentary<br />
pay TV (although we forgot to check about the availability<br />
of naughty channels) and international newspapers.<br />
The real magic of the place, however, is the classic stately<br />
feel and air of quiet confidence and refinement that touches<br />
everything from the front door to the furnishings in every<br />
last room. Basically, this is a fine hotel in a superb location.<br />
Q119 rooms (19 singles €169 - 189, 72 doubles €169<br />
- 189, 25 suites €209 - 219, 4 apartments €400 - 750).<br />
PJHARUFLGKDXCW hhhhh<br />
Ramada Vilnius C-5, Subačiaus 2, tel. 255 33 55, fax<br />
255 33 11, hotel@ramadavilnius.lt, www.ramadavilnius.<br />
lt. Rooms seem to be scattered with things made from<br />
bleached wood, plump cushions and integrated circuits.<br />
You get all the usual comforts as well as techy bits like a<br />
flat-screen satellite television, DVD player and hi-speed<br />
internet. As two of the key planks of the Ramada brand<br />
promise are a good night’s sleep and an invigorating shower,<br />
you also get a nice bed and a good hot spray to wake you up<br />
after sleeping in it. The location is very good - right among<br />
many of Vilnius’s most interesting touristy bits. Q55<br />
rooms (9 singles €90 - 99, 29 doubles €107 - 122, 3 apartments<br />
€170 - 250, 14 business class rooms €125 - 139).<br />
PTJHARUIFGKDXW hhhh<br />
Ratonda Centrum Hotels G-3, Gedimino 52/1, tel.<br />
212 06 70, fax 212 06 69, ratonda@centrumhotels.<br />
com, www.centrumhotels.com. Another fine businessorientated<br />
hotel from the Centrum people, this one being<br />
conveniently located to the main commercial district along<br />
Gedimino and the Lithuanian parliament building just around<br />
the corner. All rooms come with telephone, pay-television<br />
and free internet, with the superior rooms also boasting air<br />
conditioning. Little extras include all the usual provisions such<br />
as room service and laundry, as well as 24-hour currency<br />
exchange and, if one has time on one’s hands, the option<br />
of tours around Vilnius and Lithuania. Q48 rooms (21 singles<br />
243 - 320Lt, 23 doubles 360 - 420Lt, 4 suites 520Lt).<br />
PHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh<br />
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7, tel. 264<br />
95 95, fax 212 38 70, sales@stikliaihotel.lt, www.<br />
stikliaihotel.lt. Not everyone can afford it, but we’ll tell you<br />
about it anyway. This is the most sumptuous and luxorific<br />
hotel in town. They do good old-fashioned over-the-top rather<br />
splendidly, but deftly also maintain a homely and cosy feeling.<br />
They quietly and magically scurry about attending to<br />
your every (reasonable and not-illegal) request. And, when<br />
they do finally and delicately remove huge sums of money<br />
from your bank account, you are left more with the feeling<br />
of having spoiled oneself rather than of having been ripped<br />
off. That’s a sure sign of quality. Also they have apartments,<br />
2,000 - 4,000 €/month. Q43 rooms (14 singles<br />
€152 - 190, 17 doubles €184 - 250, 5 suites €376 - 470,<br />
6 junior suite €280 - 350, 1 president suite €880 - 1,100).<br />
PTJHAR6UIFLGKDXC hhhhh
Reval Hotel Lietuva H-2, Konstitucijos 20, tel. 272<br />
62 72, fax 272 62 70, lietuva.sales@revalhotels.<br />
com, www.revalhotels.com. It’s a 22-storey concrete<br />
cheese grater standing starkly amid gleaming glass jewels<br />
of development - but it hogs prime location, offers the best<br />
views, and seriously shines on the inside. Foyer, reception,<br />
restaurant and bar areas are modern, vast and radiant,<br />
while rooms have a tidy business-like elegance and all the<br />
standard facilities. Opt for executive class rooms or elevate<br />
yourself to a suite so you can play starfish on the enormous<br />
bed and enjoy great views of the Old Town. The Presidential<br />
Suite even has a private sauna, the wooden benches of which<br />
may just have soaked up some royal sweat in recent times.<br />
Beat that! There are also rooms for allergy sufferers, conference<br />
facilities for up to 1,200 (as used by NATO) and many<br />
thoughtful touches throughout. Q (291 rooms, from €69).<br />
POTHARUFGKDXW hhhh<br />
Scandic Neringa A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. 268 19 10,<br />
fax 261 41 60, neringa@scandic-hotels.com, www.<br />
scandic-hotels.com. Simple, bright, crisp and refreshing.<br />
It’s the cornflake of hotels. Get a room facing the street for<br />
the most sunny aspect, but enjoy a good night’s rest amid<br />
simple Scandinavian style furnishings in any room. All the<br />
standard facilities are tucked away somewhere in your room<br />
but we were also impressed by the abundance of thoughtful<br />
little touches throughout such as the provision of international<br />
newspapers, glass bowls full of sweets on the landings, water<br />
coolers in the corridors, free WiFi almost everywhere and a<br />
business centre with free printing. Kööl! Q60 rooms (22<br />
singles €81 - 137, 34 doubles €91 - 157, 4 suites €121 - 162).<br />
PJHAR6ULGKDXW hhhh<br />
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel D-2, Bernardinų 8/8,<br />
tel. 266 58 85, fax 266 58 86, info@shakespeare.lt,<br />
www.shakespeare.lt. Here’s something to write home<br />
about - an amiable little literary-themed hotel with rooms<br />
named after famous writers and characters. So you can stay<br />
in with Jane Austin or come home to Hemingway, if it takes<br />
your fancy. Each room is themed with knick-knacks as well as<br />
appropriate books - oh - and hotely stuff like heated bathroom<br />
floors, well stocked minibars, and (almost inappropriately<br />
for a readers’ haven) satellite television. Many rooms have<br />
nice views of St. Anne’s Church or Gedimino Castle, and the<br />
hotel is in a quiet but convenient location. Q31 rooms (8<br />
singles €104, 21 doubles €162 - 197, 2 suites €209 - 220).<br />
PJHAR6LGKXW hhhh<br />
“The staff are the only ones from any of many establishments<br />
we visited who have been to smiling academy.”<br />
– Barry Winkleman, via email<br />
Šarūnas I-2, Raitininkų 4, tel. 272 38 88, fax 272 43 55,<br />
info@hotelsarunas.lt, www.hotelsarunas.lt. A good value<br />
business class hotel close to the centre of things and just<br />
north of the city’s emerging business district, complete with<br />
all of the necessary add-ons for today’s demanding traveller<br />
such as satellite television, minibar and air conditioning. Everything<br />
is spotlessly clean, and the numerous perks include<br />
good conference facilities, sauna, fitness centre and a super<br />
restaurant-bar good for personal dining or group hire. For the<br />
price, this is by far one of the best hotels in its category. WiFi<br />
is free. Q55 rooms (20 singles 350 - 390Lt, 27 doubles 410<br />
- 450Lt, 5 suites 490 - 550Lt, 3 apartments 570 - 750Lt).<br />
PHAR6UFLGKDXW hhhh<br />
Browse and book online<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
where to stAy<br />
Not a hotel<br />
Mid-range<br />
Aistis Guest House Šalnos 28, tel. +370 670 084 15,<br />
welcomevilnius@gmail.com, www.welcomevilnius.com.<br />
Fresh, bright and tidy rooms in a pleasant building, and an<br />
emphasis on making you feel at home. It has the homeliness<br />
of private accommodation with hotel standard service. Think<br />
home-made cakes and a nice cup of tea or coffee whenever<br />
you want one. Rooms for allergy sufferers are also not to be<br />
sneezed at. It’s in a secluded and green area about 8km<br />
from the centre. Transfers to town are offered. The owners<br />
also run a tour and adventure business, and you’ll be ideally<br />
placed for trips to Trakai and other out-of-town action.<br />
Q (4 rooms, 3 single/double €38 - 48, 1 apartment €75).<br />
6ILGXW<br />
Ambassador B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. 261 54 50/261 54<br />
60, fax 212 17 16, info@ambassador.lt, www.ambassador.lt.<br />
The location is superb, right on the main drag, and the<br />
prices are suspisciously low. So, what’s the catch? Well, it’s<br />
just a bit dowdy and basic, with rooms full of furniture from a<br />
low-budget 80s soap opera. Ideal for those who don’t intend<br />
to spend lots of time in their hotel room. Q 18 rooms (singles<br />
150-240Lt, doubles 240-280Lt, triples 300-340Lt, quads<br />
360-400Lt, suites 360Lt). JA6LGKX hh<br />
Amicus Hotel Kaminkelio 15, tel. 237 58 80, fax 238<br />
39 80, info@amicushotel.lt, www.amicushotel.lt. This<br />
new hotel is a few kilometres from the centre of the Old Town,<br />
but easy to get to with the many busses that run to and from<br />
the airport. It’s ideal for visitors with a car who don’t want the<br />
brain-bending hassle of dealing with Vilnius’s bizarre network<br />
of one-way streets and crazy drivers. Q20 rooms (15 singles<br />
140 - 200Lt, 15 doubles 170 - 240Lt, 2 triples 260Lt, 3 suites<br />
250 - 290Lt). ARULGKD hhh<br />
Apia B-3, Šv. Ignoto 12-1, tel. 212 34 26, fax 212 36 18,<br />
apia@apia.lt, www.apia.lt. Rooms decorated in bandage<br />
beige and dental nurse blue have a safe, calm feeling. The reception<br />
and entrance, in blue sprinkled with gold fittings, give<br />
the impression of an enchanting Mediterranean evening. But<br />
the best thing is the location, bang in the centre of it all with<br />
a church visible from almost every window. While there are no<br />
minibars or safes in the rooms, there is satellite television and<br />
free internet. All up it’s a unique and homely little hotel. Q12<br />
rooms (4 singles €61 - 91, 3 doubles €67 - 99, 2 triples €61<br />
- 93, 3 suites €79 - 111). JARLGXW hhh<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
1
1<br />
where to stAy<br />
A.V.Goda Kalvarijų 265, tel. 277 77 73/+370 682 189<br />
01, fax 237 56 08, info@hotelgoda.lt, www.hotelgoda.lt.<br />
Some four km from the centre, this smart hotel will be off the<br />
map for most holiday visitors. Being in a pleasant leafy district,<br />
however, it’s ideal for longer-term stays, business and family<br />
visits. It’s also over the road from a film production company<br />
and a nice park, so maybe you’ll meet movie stars walking<br />
their dogs. Rooms are simple, but honey-dipped sweet, and<br />
offer cable television and free LAN internet. There’s also a<br />
modest conference facility. Q19 rooms (3 singles 130Lt,<br />
8 doubles 150Lt, 7 triples 200 - 220Lt, 1 quad 240Lt).<br />
HARLGX hhh<br />
Centro Kubas C-3, Stiklių 3, tel. 266 08 60, fax 266<br />
08 63, hotel@centrokubas.lt, www.hotel.centrokubas.<br />
lt. It’s outside-in, with a big windmill in the atrium, and terraces<br />
so you can sit there watching it not moving. Despite the rustic,<br />
village theme rooms are modern and comfortable with proper<br />
beds and sparkly bathrooms. So they’re as suitable for a good<br />
night’s sleep as they are for a proverbial roll in the hay. The<br />
location is superb, and you’d be hard pushed to find better<br />
value in this historic part of town. Q 14 rooms ( 14 singles/<br />
doubles 320-360Lt). JHARUGXW hhh<br />
Centrum Uniquestay Hotel G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel.<br />
268 33 00, fax 213 27 60, hotel@centrum.lt, www.<br />
uniquestay.com. A large, modern hotel (now a part of<br />
Uniquestay Hotels Group) tucked away in a quiet district of<br />
the city, geared toward business travellers but equally fit<br />
for tourists. The surprisingly elegant rooms all come with<br />
telephone, television, minibar and now feature computers and<br />
free in-room internet access. Uniquestay also has a host of<br />
extras including sauna, massage, laundry and a small shop<br />
selling a range of international newspapers and magazines.<br />
Business facilities stretch beyond the usual provision of fax<br />
and photocopying facilities, with the addition of five conference<br />
halls to suit all types of meetings. Q100 rooms (38<br />
singles 200 - 260Lt, 57 doubles 290Lt, 5 suites 380Lt).<br />
ARULGKDXCW hhh<br />
City Gate C-5, Bazilijonų 3, tel. 210 73 06, fax 210 73<br />
07, citygate@mail.lt, www.citygate.lt. A charming little<br />
hotel with a distinctive Spanish feel just across the street<br />
from the Gates of Dawn and featuring telephone, wireless<br />
internet, minibar and bathroom in all of the bright and comfortable<br />
rooms. Add-ons include two small but well-equipped<br />
conference rooms, and a fabulous little restaurant. The staff<br />
all speak English and are exceptionally polite and helpful. All<br />
in all, a very good value hotel indeed. Q29 rooms (2 singles<br />
200Lt, 17 doubles 300Lt, 5 triples 390Lt, 5 business class<br />
rooms 260 - 360Lt). JHAUILGXW hhh<br />
Comfort Vilnius B-5, Gėlių 5, tel. 264 88 33, fax<br />
264 88 32, reservation@comfort.lt, www.comfort.lt.<br />
Simplicity and style get together and have a bit of a big,<br />
friendly cuddle in this rather-basic but nonetheless comfortable<br />
little hide-away. Basically it’s a cheap-stay option with<br />
nice little touches (such as light-proof curtains and free<br />
parking) that other budget accommodation options tend<br />
to come without. A quality bargain.Q57 rooms (8 singles<br />
235Lt, 44 doubles 269Lt, 5 suites 339Lt, 35 twins 269Lt).<br />
JHA6GW hhh<br />
Ecotel Vilnius H-2, Slucko 8, tel. 210 27 00, fax 210<br />
27 07, hotel@ecotel.lt, www.ecotel.lt. Tucked away in a<br />
pleasant, quiet part of town just east of the city’s emerging<br />
business district, Ecotel offers a choice of sleek and comfortable<br />
rooms, all coming with telephone and television, and<br />
including a range for non-smokers and those with allergy<br />
problems. With conference facilities and a whole host of<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
other services (including ‘rooms for tall guests’) this might<br />
be the lofty option you were looking for. Q168 rooms<br />
(20 singles 179Lt, 142 doubles 199Lt, 6 triples 255Lt).<br />
HARULGX hh<br />
Europa City G-3, J.Jasinskio 14, tel. 251 44 77, fax<br />
251 44 76, vilnius@europacity.lt, www.europacity.<br />
lt. The perfect business class hotel, featuring comfortable<br />
rooms with all the conveniences from satellite television and<br />
minibar to top security card keys and internet connections.<br />
Add-ons include a fitness centre to keep in trim whilst you’re<br />
working abroad, conference facilities and a white tablecloth<br />
restaurant. Also offers four studios (€521/month.) Q128<br />
rooms (88 singles €49, 88 doubles €59, 32 suites €79 - 89,<br />
4 apartments €119). PHAR6UFLGKDXW<br />
hhh<br />
Karolina Sausio 13-osios 2, tel. 245 39 39/216 89 34,<br />
fax 216 93 41, info@karolina.lt, www.karolina.lt. With all<br />
the rooms having now finally been renovated and brought up<br />
to 21st century standards, Karolina remains a good choice<br />
for groups. You’ll also find three excellent conference facilities<br />
as well as an elegant dining room with views of the grounds.<br />
There are a lot of repeat customers among business travellers<br />
due to the personable nature of the staff, and the bar and<br />
bowling alley are added bonuses. Find it located out towards<br />
the Television Tower. Q95 rooms (81 singles €50 - 64, 81<br />
doubles €52 - 70, 11 suites €81 - 102, 3 apartments €110<br />
- 131). HA6LGKDXC hhh<br />
Martialis K-1, Bistryčios 13, tel. 210 48 00, fax 234 02<br />
93, info@martialis.lt, www.martialis.lt. Although not right<br />
in the centre of town, this simple yet modern hotel provides<br />
clean, comfortable rooms with satellite television, phones<br />
and, in case you need a little help relaxing, a qualified masseur<br />
on call. Ideal for business groups. Note that they offer<br />
every 2nd night for half-price during winter – although the<br />
dastardly taxi drivers who charge more ‘because it’s cold’ will<br />
probably negate any benefit. Q114 rooms (2 singles 140<br />
- 190Lt, 106 doubles 230 - 260Lt, 6 suites 320 - 340Lt).<br />
HA6ULGKW hhh<br />
Mikotel C-6, Pylimo 63, tel. 260 96 26, fax 260 96 27,<br />
reservation@mikotel.lt, www.mikotel.lt. The receptionists<br />
are cheerful and outgoing at this modern hotel near the<br />
train station. Fortunately, unlike its dismal surroundings the<br />
hotel’s interior is clean and bright with the added touch of local<br />
artwork for sale on the walls. The rooms are compact with<br />
showers only and comfortable beds. Guests have access to<br />
the kitchen in the breakfast nook if they wish to cook meals<br />
for themselves. Q25 rooms (5 singles 160Lt, 14 doubles<br />
200Lt, 6 triples 240 - 280Lt). JA6G hh<br />
Panorama B-6, Sodų 14, tel. 233 88 22, fax 233 88 32,<br />
reservation@hotelpanorama.lt, www.hotelpanorama.<br />
lt. This surprising hotel rises above its location and offers<br />
wonderful views of Old Town and plenty of comfort and luxury<br />
without steep prices. While it is very convenient to be across<br />
the square from the bus and train stations, it is a convenience<br />
that is also enjoyed by all manner of scumbags, vagrants and<br />
weary commuters. Being in the freshly renovated hotel is<br />
lovely. Hanging around outside it is not. Still, it’s just a short<br />
stroll and a quick run of the gauntlet to Old Town, and the combinations<br />
of views, basics comforts and reasonable prices is<br />
unmatched. Q222 rooms (11 singles 189Lt, 206 doubles<br />
229Lt, 5 suites 272Lt). JHA6LGKW hhh<br />
1Lt = €0.29; GBP0.20; US$0.43<br />
(23 Nov 2007)
Rūdninkų Vartai B-5, Rūdninkų 15/46, tel. 261 39 16,<br />
fax 212 05 07, rudninkai@cityhotels.lt, www.cityhotels.<br />
lt ; wwww.rudninkuvartai.lt. Basic. Cheap. Not much else<br />
to say. This hotel meets minimum requirements with worn wooden<br />
desks and tables, chintzy soft furnishings, and not much else. No<br />
fridges, no safe, but clean and tidy offerings including comfortable<br />
beds, decent showers and a handy location. A good economy<br />
option for those who don’t want to sleep among backpacks,<br />
smelly socks and a hairy bloke called Mungo who insists on telling<br />
you about his travel adventures and asking to borrow your soap.<br />
Q17 rooms (5 singles 180 - 200Lt, 10 doubles 200 - 250Lt, 2<br />
suites 260 - 400Lt). JAR6LGKXW hhh<br />
Reval <strong>In</strong>n Vilnius Ukmergės 363, tel. 238 80 00, fax<br />
238 85 55, vilnius@revalinn.com, www.revalinn.com. It’s<br />
about 10km away from the centre of town, but with a full list of<br />
facilities, a nice price and comfortable rooms, it is one of the<br />
best options for business on a budget or families with a car.<br />
There’s free WiFi and good conference facilities for the former,<br />
and great value for the latter due to the fact that two people<br />
can stay in a room for the price of one, and kids under 12 stay<br />
free. Rooms are tidy and fresh and benefit from swish modern<br />
bathrooms. If you don’t mind the far-flung location, it’s a superb<br />
option. Q83 rooms (1 triple €101, 3 suites €101, 79 singles/<br />
doubles €38 - 66). HAR6ULGKW hhh<br />
Rinno A-4, Vingrių 25, tel. 262 28 28, fax 262 59 29,<br />
info@rinno.lt, www.rinno.lt. This hotel has a lot going for it<br />
with classy and comfortable rooms. Some have great views<br />
of Old Town. The bathrooms are so huge and comfortable<br />
that you may decide to spend half the day grooming yourself.<br />
Popular with business travellers, there are also confrerence<br />
facilities for 35 people. The service and breakfast pancakes,<br />
according to a reliable source, are both twice as good as each<br />
other. Q17 rooms (14 singles €59 - 69, 14 doubles €69 - 79,<br />
3 suites €79 - 89). JHAR6LGXW hhh<br />
Vingriai A/B-4, Vingrių 25, tel. 212 28 59, fax 261 89<br />
18, info@hotelvingriai.lt, www.hotelvingriai.lt. If we had<br />
to recommend a hotel for the Dalai Lama (we’re good mates,<br />
you see) we’d probably put this near the top of the list. The<br />
lovely honey and burgundy colour scheme would make his<br />
holiness feel right at home. He wouldn’t have to worry about<br />
forgetting his toothbrush, because they provide those for<br />
you, along with other brushes for shoes, and robes. There<br />
are two standards of rooms - the larger ones with embarrassingly<br />
large bathrooms - all delicately decorated and<br />
replete with all you could need. 24 hour security, the quiet<br />
fuss of attentive staff and a cosy little restaurant add to the<br />
sense of serenity and calm in what really is an exquisite little<br />
exile. Free LAN internet. Q6 rooms (6 singles 238 - 290Lt,<br />
6 doubles 273 - 311Lt, 3 triples 324 - 400Lt, 2 suites 307<br />
- 415Lt). PJAR6LGKX hhhh<br />
Žemaitės G-5, Žemaitės 15, tel. 213 31 93, fax 213 33<br />
37, info@hotelzemaites.lt, www.hotelzemaites.lt. Now<br />
fully modernised, this excellent value hotel not too far from the<br />
centre of the city comes with a selection of rooms to please<br />
all budgets, and each one coming with its own telephone<br />
and television. What this hotel lacks in location, it more than<br />
makes up for in service. The staff are friendly, helpful and will<br />
do their utmost to aid travellers. The rooms, decorated in ice<br />
green tones accented by lightwood, give off an air of cheerfulness,<br />
cleanliness and comfort. Some of the suites even have<br />
swishy white leather chairs and couches. Moreover the price<br />
for all this coziness is more than reasonable. To get there, take<br />
trolleybus N°16 from outside the bus station. A taxi from Old<br />
Town shouldn’t cost more than 10Lt. Q70 rooms (10 singles<br />
200 - 240Lt, 48 doubles 220 - 240Lt, 4 triples 280Lt, 6 suites<br />
280Lt). PHARLGKDXC hhh<br />
where to stAy<br />
Have <strong>Your</strong> Say<br />
If you have had an experience to remember at any of<br />
the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly or<br />
downright sad, let the two million regular unique visitors<br />
to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about<br />
it. Every venue on our website now has a module below<br />
it for you to comment on the places we write about. You<br />
can agree with us, scold us, praise us or damn us to hell<br />
(in the case of angry hotel or restaurant owners unhappy<br />
with their reviews).<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
1
20<br />
where to stAy<br />
Budget<br />
A5 Hotel Fabijoniškių 6-5, tel. 270 24 09, fax 270 24 18,<br />
reservation@a5hotel.lt, www.a5hotel.lt. <strong>In</strong> a converted<br />
home in the Fabijoniškės district not too far from the middle<br />
of civilisation, the hosts of this family-run hotel are eager to<br />
please their guests. The set-up is reminiscent of a traditional<br />
British B&B since there is a living room and a dining room<br />
where breakfast is served, and the nice owners will pick up<br />
guests at the aiport which is a real bonus. Q10 rooms (4<br />
singles 90 - 120Lt, 2 doubles 140 - 150Lt, 2 triples 160Lt, 2<br />
suites 190Lt). AR6LGW hhh<br />
Genovaitės Dedelienės B&B J-4, Polocko 53a, tel./<br />
fax 210 58 61. If you don’t mind a 20-minute walk to Old<br />
Town through the charming Užupis district, this could be just<br />
the spot. The rooms are like mini apartments, with a kitchen<br />
and modern bathroom, cable television, and in the bigger<br />
rooms, a couch and eating area. There are trendy touches<br />
like glass placemats and the sort of leather furniture that<br />
you have to peel yourself out of in summer, but basically the<br />
formula here is airy cleanliness, simplicity, and good value.<br />
Worth considering if you want to be out of the way - but not<br />
too far away. Free internet. Q (9 rooms, starting 130Lt).<br />
AR6LGW<br />
Jeruzalė Kalvarijų 247, tel. 271 40 40, fax 276 26 27,<br />
jeruzale@takas.lt, www.jeruzalehotel.com. For the modest<br />
price, who could complain? Especially with add-ons like<br />
sauna, swimming pool, in-room internet access and a safe<br />
place to park your car. This hotel, 10 minutes north of the<br />
river, maintains a standard of rooms that should make your<br />
stay comfortable enough while not denting the wallet. Q27<br />
rooms (3 singles 60 - 100Lt, 20 doubles 80 - 100Lt, 2 triples<br />
150Lt, 2 suites 150Lt). A6LGDXCW hh<br />
Paupio Namai I-4, Paupio 31a, tel. 264 31 13, fax 264<br />
31 12, hotel@paupio.lt, hotel.paupio.lt. A big friendly manor<br />
house full of big friendly staff tucked away just off the street.<br />
Here you can get just about any combination you require, from<br />
a shared dormitory with external bathroom to self-contained<br />
apartments with en-suite facilities. The rooms are basic, clean,<br />
and fairly good value, and if you want you can take advantage<br />
of the fully equipped downstairs kitchen to keep costs down<br />
even further. Prices include a large breakfast. Q24 rooms (2<br />
singles 60 - 70Lt, 14 doubles 90 - 110Lt, 8 triples 90 - 130Lt,<br />
dormitory rooms 40 - 50Lt). ARLGW<br />
Velga E-5, Geležinio Vilko 3, tel./fax 231 14 35, velhotel@sekme.lt,<br />
www.hotelvelga.lt. Out of the way and of little<br />
use unless you’ve got business at the nearby Litexpo centre, or<br />
a deep respect for Soviet style 70s kitsch and floral wallpaper.<br />
Good transport connections nearby, pleasant service, and cheap<br />
prices. Q 44 rooms (2 singles from 60Lt, 26 doubles from 90Lt,<br />
15 triples from 120Lt, 1 suite from 120Lt). 6G hh<br />
Victoria G-2, Saltoniškių 56, tel. 272 40 13, fax 272<br />
43 20, hotel@victoria.lt, www.victoria.lt. The price and<br />
quality definitely make up for its location, just a ten-minute<br />
walk from the edge of Old Town. Scandinavian owned and<br />
operated, its contemporary rooms are a bargain at such affordable<br />
prices.Q42 rooms (6 singles €17 - 32, 30 doubles<br />
€40, 2 triples €52, 1 quad €69, 1 suite €52 - 64, 2 mini suites<br />
€69). HA6G h<br />
Vilniaus Europolis G-4, Švitrigailos 11d, tel. 215 04<br />
10, fax 215 04 11, hotel@europolis.lt, www.europolis.<br />
lt. Here’s a place that aspires to mediocrity, but doesn’t quite<br />
make it. While there’s nothing wrong with the idea of an office<br />
block being converted into a hotel, with cubicles... erm...<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
rooms filled with simple furniture and compact bathrooms<br />
(without baths), this place just feels tired. The threadbare<br />
carpets and tatty furniture in reception at least give an appropriate<br />
welcome. There are no minibars in the rooms, but<br />
you can buy a refrigerator from the shop next door - it’s in<br />
that part of town. Best only for business on a budget. Q26<br />
rooms (1 single 100 - 150Lt, 10 doubles 150 - 190Lt, 15<br />
triples 210 - 250Lt, 2 quads 280 - 320Lt, 2 apartments 210<br />
- 250Lt). A6LGK hh<br />
Very cheap<br />
Vilnius Youth Tourist Centre (Vilniaus Jaunųjų<br />
Turistų centras) J-4, Polocko 7, tel. 261 35 76, fax<br />
262 77 42, vjtc@delfi.lt, www.vjtc.lt. Set in a pastoral<br />
courtyard of the Užupis district, the building is in a state of<br />
dilapidated charm characteristic of this part of town. The<br />
bathrooms and quarters are very clean. The receptionists<br />
don’t all speak English but hand-gestures should suffice.<br />
Breakfast can be arranged for a pittance. Q 16 rooms,<br />
30Lt/night for one person. RG<br />
Bed & Breakfast<br />
Bernardinų B&B House D-2, Bernardinų 5-11, tel.<br />
261 51 34/+370 672 032 77, fax 260 84 10, guesthouse@avevita.lt<br />
; info@avevita.lt, www.avevita.<br />
lt/guesthouse. An excellent value little guesthouse, smack<br />
bang in the middle of Old Town. Q 8 rooms (€21-87).<br />
JA6LG<br />
Litinterp B&B D-2, Bernardinų 7-2, tel. 212 38<br />
50/+370 689 985 17, fax 212 35 59, vilnius@litinterp.<br />
lt, www.litinterp.lt. Rooms in a charming building in Old<br />
Town for a very reasonable price. They also offer bed and<br />
breakfast (with a host or without) available in Vilnius and<br />
Kaunas, Klaipėda, Nida and Palanga. All central or Old Town<br />
locations. Apartments for rent too. Q17 rooms (4 singles<br />
70 - 96Lt, 9 doubles 120 - 146Lt, 2 triples 160 - 190Lt, 2<br />
suites 210Lt). JALG hh<br />
Guesthouses<br />
Ameda F-2, Latvių 27, tel. +370 601 704 40, info@<br />
hotelameda.lt, www.hotelameda.lt. A nice combination<br />
of a homey atmosphere with some creative decorations<br />
(nothing too wacky). It’s also in a very pleasant residential<br />
area, and yet still stollable from town. It’s certainly well<br />
fitted-out, with kitchenettes, washing machines, internet<br />
access and satellite televisions. It looks like a good choice<br />
for quiet weekends or longer-term stays. Q6 rooms (2 singles<br />
€25 - 40, 2 doubles €30 - 50, 2 apartments €55 - 65).<br />
6LGXW<br />
Auksinė Avis (The Golden Sheep) Pupinės 5, tel.<br />
+370 611 588 05, fax 230 64 24, info@auksineavis.<br />
lt, www.auksineavis.lt. The ‘golden sheep’ is miles away<br />
from anything interesting (or about 10km from the centre of<br />
the city, to be more exact) but does offer a high standard of<br />
accommodation in modern rooms for a bargain price, and free<br />
WiFi. They also offer free transport to anyone staying more<br />
than five nights, so it’s a good option for a long-term stay, or<br />
if you just want to avoid all the other sheep. Q5 rooms (4<br />
singles 80Lt, 1 double 120Lt). A6ULGW<br />
Domus Maria C-5, Aušros Vartų 12, tel. 264 48 80, fax<br />
264 48 78, domusmaria@vilnensis.lt, www.domusmaria.<br />
lt. A spectacular former monastery on one of the most pleasant<br />
streets in town. All of the lovely rooms come complete<br />
with the basics plus telephone and television, with the more
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°4 - 400 lek<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
TIRANA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
upmarket ones featuring minibars and baths. Big windows<br />
make the rooms exceptionally bright, and if you have a choice,<br />
try to get one overlooking the Gates of Dawn. Lovely. Q39<br />
rooms (8 singles 179Lt, 21 doubles 249Lt, 5 triples 279Lt,<br />
2 quads 299Lt, 3 suites 250 - 280Lt). JHRUGK<br />
hhh<br />
E-Guest House G-4, T.Ševčenkos 16, tel. 266 07 30,<br />
fax 233 57 10, info@e-guesthouse.lt, www.e-guesthouse.lt.<br />
Quite the oddest little guesthouse that there ever<br />
was, featuring compact modern rooms, all coming with both<br />
network and dial-up free internet connections (you can even<br />
rent a laptop if you don’t have one), art on the walls that<br />
can be bought, and a takeaway pizza service. Children up<br />
to 12 years old stay here free of charge. Q34 rooms (4<br />
singles €43 - 64, 13 doubles €52 - 70, 7 suites €64 - 78,<br />
10 apartments €78 - 130). PHA6ULGKDW<br />
hhh<br />
Jaunimo Slėnis G-2, Konstitucijos 25, tel. 272 22 70,<br />
fax 272 56 51, jnn@lvjc.lt, www.jnn.lt. The location may<br />
be slightly off the beaten track but the price and quality are<br />
worth it. If you’re travelling in groups of three or four, the<br />
shared rooms are a great deal. Quarters are simple, bright,<br />
immaculate and have their own toilet and shower. Breakfast<br />
is included in the price of stay at the adjoining café. Q10<br />
rooms (2 singles 60Lt, 4 doubles 100Lt, 4 triples 120Lt, 2<br />
quads 160Lt). HAR6FLGKDCW h<br />
Latako Guest House C-3, Latako 1/Bokšto 2-30, tel.<br />
261 63 64/+370 687 296 82, latako@delfi.lt, www.<br />
latako.ten.lt. This guesthouse has an excellent Old Town<br />
location. You will really appreciate these handy and welldesigned<br />
apartments. Q5 rooms (1 single 140 - 160Lt, 3<br />
doubles 180 - 200Lt, 1 triple 240Lt). JGX<br />
where to stAy<br />
Get <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> before you go<br />
The full <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> range is available to purchase online at:<br />
www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy<br />
Shopping fever<br />
Tirana’s first malls<br />
Facade art<br />
Painting the city pink<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
BUCHAREST<br />
N°40 - 8.00 lei<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
April - May 2006<br />
A New Look<br />
We‘ve never looked<br />
better: <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
gets a makeover<br />
Blogging<br />
Bucharest<br />
Our guide to the best<br />
politically incorrect<br />
comment online<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°34 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1641-5264<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°7 - Free copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
WARSAW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
BELFAST<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Wilanów<br />
Explore the Polish<br />
Versailles<br />
Out of town<br />
Poland‘s top spa town:<br />
Nałęczów<br />
The Great<br />
Outdoors<br />
Cycling, skydiving and<br />
country pursuits<br />
Gastro Tourism<br />
Seafood, whiskey and<br />
St. George’s Market<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°34 - 100 Kč<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°60 - 1.20Ls<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
PRAGUE<br />
August - September 2006<br />
RIGA<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Going to the<br />
chapel<br />
Karlštejn’s renovated<br />
jewel<br />
Let’s rock<br />
Visiting the Bohemian<br />
Paradise<br />
Hockey Fever<br />
Everything you need to<br />
know about IIHF World<br />
Championship in Riga<br />
Explore Latvia<br />
Take a day trip to<br />
the seaside towns of<br />
Jūrmala and Liepāja<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
COLOGNE<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
River tours<br />
Wine and dine on the<br />
Rhine<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
June - July 2006<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°23 - €1.75<br />
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BERLIN<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Museum night<br />
100 museums in one<br />
night<br />
Floating the<br />
boat<br />
Spree river tours<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
HAMBURG<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
June - July 2006<br />
Harbour tours<br />
Down in the docks<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°47 - 35kr<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
TALLINN<br />
Touring Narva<br />
Cool sights at the EU‘s<br />
eastern border<br />
IYP gets a new<br />
look<br />
The inside scoop on the<br />
new look inside<br />
Litinterp Guest House D-2, Bernardinų 7-2, tel. 212 38<br />
50/+370 689 985 17, fax 212 35 59, vilnius@litinterp.<br />
lt, www.litinterp.lt. Little. Yellow. Litinterp... Soothe all of<br />
your travel pains with a stay at the perfectly-popular Litinterp<br />
Guest House. This friendly and hospitable place has been<br />
in the lodging business for as long as we’ve been around<br />
to write about it. Simplicity is the norm, with a standard of<br />
service that is unequaled about town in places of the like.<br />
Ask here, and you shall receive. Q17 rooms (4 singles 70<br />
- 96Lt, 9 doubles 120 - 146Lt, 2 triples 160 - 190Lt, 2 suites<br />
210Lt). JALG hh<br />
Senatoriai C-2, Tilto 2a, tel. 212 64 91, fax 212 63<br />
72, info@senatoriai.lt, www.senatoriai.lt. There’s a<br />
Scandinavian ski cabin feeling in some rooms, and cottage<br />
charm in the others, but while all the rooms look and feel<br />
very homely the facilities and services are nothing short<br />
of professional. There’s a satellite television and minibar in<br />
every room, and even free wireless internet access. Drag<br />
yourself away from those comforts, however, and you’ll find<br />
the best thing is the location - right across the road from the<br />
Cathedral. Just like living in a postcard. Q11 rooms (4 singles<br />
150 - 250Lt, 6 doubles 300 - 350Lt, 1 triple 320 - 370Lt).<br />
JA6LGKXW hhhh<br />
Telecom Guest House G-4, A.Vivulskio 13a, tel. 264<br />
48 61, fax 264 48 60, reservation@telecomguesthouse.<br />
lt, www.telecomguesthouse.lt. Only a 15 minute walk away<br />
from Old Town, this hotel seems like a well-kept secret as the<br />
entrance is not obvious from the street. A stay at this quaint<br />
courtyard hotel is worth every litas. The double rooms are<br />
well-equipped with baths and real double beds. Old building<br />
rooms are, well, older, but the price is much nicer. Q10<br />
rooms (6 singles 130Lt, 2 doubles 180Lt, 2 suites 220Lt).<br />
PAR6LGKXW hhh<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°41 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1508-2334<br />
KRAKÓW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Tarnów<br />
Explore the Pearl of the<br />
Renaissance<br />
Leisure<br />
Getting active in Kraków<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
21
22<br />
where to stAy<br />
Veronica B&B B-3, Trakų 15-5, tel. +370 686 046 07,<br />
vghouse@yahoo.com, www.guestshouses.info. If you’re<br />
comfortable with the idea of sharing living space with the<br />
owners of a guesthouse keep this place in mind. Really a<br />
perfect location in Old Town and interested hosts. Q2 rooms<br />
(1 double 200Lt, 1 triple 240Lt). JRLD<br />
Hostels<br />
A Hostel B-6, Sodų 17, tel. 213 99 94, info@ahostel.<br />
lt. Party pods! The Japanese capsule hotel concept has<br />
landed in Lithuania, but you don’t have to be an overworked<br />
highly-strung office zombie to use it. While their imagination<br />
hasn’t extended to finding a decent name for themselves,<br />
the A Hostel deserve top marks for their creative hostel<br />
concept, where the two prime purposes of sleeping and<br />
mingling (but not necessarily at the same time) are expertly<br />
offered among sparkly new, clean and complete facilities. A<br />
truly outstanding offering. Also at Šv.Stepono 15, tel. 233 53<br />
96; and Sodų 8, tel. 215 02 70. Q Open 24hrs. (52 beds,<br />
€9.90 - 35/person). JG<br />
Arts Academy Hostel C-3, Latako 2, tel. 212 01<br />
76. If your travelling mantra is ‘I just need a bed,’ then this<br />
shabby building right in the Old Town could be your place to<br />
stay. Sheets cost a few litas and residents aren’t allowed<br />
to snooze past 10:00. However, parking is available. Q 21<br />
rooms ( 45-100 Lt). JL<br />
Airport hotels<br />
Acappella Dariaus ir Girėno 61, tel. 216 78 98,<br />
fax 216 72 41, info@hotelacappella.lt, www.<br />
hotelacappella.lt. It’s a ten-minute Gypsy-dodging<br />
walk from the airport to reach this homely oasis in<br />
what is otherwise Crapville. Rooms are smart, bright<br />
and clean. There is somewhere to sleep, somewhere<br />
to write a letter to mum, and somewhere to take care<br />
of bodily functions. And that’s it. You’ll have to opt for a<br />
lofty suite if you want to watch television while doing any<br />
of those things. The hotel has a decent restaurant and<br />
a lovely yard for outdoor dining, or just relaxing, in summer.<br />
Pleasant English speaking staff make this the best<br />
option for flighty foreigners. Q10 rooms (7 singles 159<br />
- 179Lt, 6 doubles 199 - 219Lt, 3 suites 239 - 259Lt).<br />
ARLGKX hhh<br />
Adelita Rodūnios kelias 8, tel. 232 93 04, fax 213<br />
64 63, info@adelita.lt, www.adelita.lt. If you like the<br />
time warp feeling of jet-lag, or just have to recover from<br />
it, you might like the 60s glass-and-concrete style of this<br />
place. It could be the setting for a Carry On Flying movie.<br />
Or, if the reception staff are anything to go by, Carry<br />
On Monolingual Monster. Still, rooms are comfortable,<br />
there’s a small sauna and fitness room, and you’re close<br />
to the airport for a quick getaway. Q31 rooms (7 singles<br />
€47 - 58, 17 doubles €35 - 76, 4 triples €49, 3 suites<br />
€82 - 99). ALGKDW hhh<br />
Skrydis Rodūnios kelias 8, tel. 232 90 99/273<br />
93 62, fax 230 64 98, hotel@vno.lt, www.vno.lt.<br />
Very cheap ‘n’ chipboard. Recently (2006) renovated to<br />
offer sparkly bathrooms and flat-pack, self-assembly<br />
furniture. The beds are still nice and firm and everything<br />
else is basic but clean. Make sure you get a renovated<br />
room. Q50 rooms (11 singles 60 - 180Lt, 22 doubles 80<br />
- 240Lt, 17 triples 105Lt). HALGK hh<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Filaretai J-3, Filaretų 17, tel. 215 46 27, fax 212 01<br />
49, info@filaretaihostel.lt, www.filaretaihostel.lt. This<br />
IYH hostel is not the closest to the train station but is well<br />
worth the bus ride to the funky Užupis district just outside Old<br />
Town. Comforts include a kitchen with microwave, breakfast<br />
room, lockers, washing machine, satellite television and video<br />
player in a cosy common room. Q20 rooms (5 singles 69Lt,<br />
5 doubles 44Lt, 5 triples 35Lt, 10 dormitory rooms 30Lt).<br />
HARLGW<br />
Old Town Hostel C-5, Aušros Vartų 20-15, tel. 262 53<br />
57, fax 268 59 67, oldtownhostels@lithuanianhostels.<br />
org, www.lithuanianhostels.org. This is the one everyone<br />
talks about. But no matter what you hear about antics such<br />
as running naked into Belarus with a plastic Kalashnikov and<br />
a dead rabbit on your head singing ‘back in the USSR’ (we<br />
embellished that story a bit, but so does everyone), you’re<br />
actually more likely to find comfort, competence, professionalism<br />
and a homely friendly atmosphere here. Free tea, coffee<br />
and internet, but no lockers. 24hr reception. Q (23 beds,<br />
34Lt/person). JARGW<br />
Long term rental<br />
Barbacan Palace Apartments D-4, Bokšto 19/Šv.<br />
Kazimiero 12, tel. 266 08 40, fax 266 08 41, barbacan@<br />
centrokubas.lt, www.barbacan.lt. This hotel close to the<br />
ancient walls of Old Town has been sensitively designed in<br />
an Old Town style and has neat, well-furnished rooms. One<br />
and two bedroom apartments have fully-equipped kitchens<br />
and balconies. Q (From €31/day if you stay more than a<br />
year, from €37/day if you stay more than a month and from<br />
€150/day if you stay 1-3 days). PJAUL<br />
Ober-Haus Apartments H-3, Kaštonų 8, tel. 231 41<br />
67, fax 231 41 68, lithuania@ober-haus.lt, www.oberhaus.lt.<br />
Fully renovated, modern, furnished, well-equipped<br />
apartments. All centrally located. Offices also at Geležinio<br />
Vilko 18a, tel. 210 97 00, fax. 210 97 01. Pilies 10, tel. 266 65<br />
55, fax. 263 95 31. Q (1,200 - 10,000Lt/month). JL<br />
Pro Kapital Apartments C-4, Didžioji 39/1, tel. 266<br />
08 00, fax 261 03 30, pk@prokapital.lt, www.prokapital.<br />
lt. Luxury apartments for longer stays with appropriate price<br />
tags to match. The apartments are classy and bright with<br />
the most modern of kitchens, all coming with cable television<br />
and stereo. Some have balconies and all are tastefully<br />
decorated. Cleaning, laundry, babysitting and secreterial<br />
services are available, as are drivers and personal mailboxes.<br />
Q 5 apartments (two-room 5,310Lt/month, three-room<br />
5,780Lt/month). JRL<br />
Sektor Real Estate C-4, Savičiaus 11-57, tel. 266<br />
03 10, fax 266 03 11, post@sektor.lt, www.sektor.lt.<br />
Situated in a charming Old Town location, and featuring a<br />
choice of furnished and unfurnished apartments all coming<br />
complete with the latest in hi-tech domestic appliances.<br />
Guarded parking and ISDN are also included, plus they have<br />
a large, Viking-style cellar complete with sauna and small<br />
pool for parties. Q 10 apartments, 2 - 3 bedroom, (3,100<br />
- 6,500Lt/month). JRLD<br />
Stikliai Apartments C-3, Gaono 7, tel. 264 95 95, fax<br />
212 38 70, apartments@stikliaihotel.lt, www.stikliaiapartments.lt.<br />
Luxuriously-furnished apartments available<br />
for both short and long-term rent. Tastefully decorated and<br />
located at the Stikliai hotel, apartments come fully equipped<br />
with kitchen, satellite TV and <strong>In</strong>ternet access. All hotel<br />
services are available. Q (two-room apartments 2,000<br />
- 4,000€/month). PTJHARFLKDXCW
Short term rental<br />
AG Lux Apartments C-4, Didžioji 39, tel. +370 682 453<br />
41/+316 286 950 09, karolisbutk@yahoo.com. Upscale<br />
living in the very heart of Old Town. Just steps from fine dining,<br />
shopping and clubbing. Fully furnished apartments for night or<br />
long term in elegant, renovated historical building. Q 2-room<br />
apartments, from 240Lt/night or 2,500Lt/month. JR<br />
Algis House C-3, Stiklių 4-4, tel. 212 11 12/+370 686<br />
606 26, algis_rent@yahoo.com, www.geocities.com/algishouse.<br />
Three big, beautiful loft apartments ideally located<br />
on a quiet Old Town street, housed in a 19th century mansion<br />
with a lovely courtyard. Q 160 - 220Lt/night. JALW<br />
Anre Guest House B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 7-15, tel. +370<br />
698 720 02, apartments@anre.lt, www.anre.lt. There<br />
are actually three apartments available (see below for addresses),<br />
all with oodles of charm, comfort and mod-cons<br />
such as fully equipped kitchens, washing machine, cable<br />
television and so on. All are in convenient Old Town locations.<br />
Also at Šv. Mikalojaus 7-12 and Šiltadaržio 4-8. Q<br />
160 - 220Lt/night. J<br />
Apartments B-4, Vokiečių 16, tel. 241 38 54/+370<br />
685 093 02, euge_eugen@yahoo.com, www.gelminta.<br />
lt. Offering newly-renovated and fully-furnished apartments<br />
in the heart of Old Town and the surrounding downtown area.<br />
The warm and tastefully decorated apartments are available<br />
for short and long-term rentals and come with cable television<br />
and optional cleaning services. Q 150 - 250Lt/night. J<br />
Avenue Apartments G-3, Gedimino 44-3, tel. +370<br />
670 196 27/+370 687 494 21, avenue@mail.lt, www.<br />
vilnius-apartment.com. A beautiful and spacious apartment<br />
with two separate bedrooms, office, cosy living area with<br />
luxurious furniture to watch satellite television on, kitchen<br />
and shower room. Q €45 - 100/night.<br />
Eldorado Apartments Tel. +370 699 173 91, info@<br />
apartamentai.lt, www.apartamentai.lt. Newly-renovated<br />
apartments in Old Town, complete with well-equipped bathrooms,<br />
spa, saunas, kitchens and furniture. Parking available.<br />
Q 20 apartments (one-room €38, two-room €40 - 70, threeroom<br />
€55 - 70, €650/month). JL<br />
Eugenijus Apartments H-4, Vilniaus 25-1, tel. +370<br />
699 424 56, eugenijp@takas.lt, www.vilniusapartments.lt.<br />
Great value for such a great location - right between<br />
the old and new parts of town and within walking distance of<br />
most attractions. The apartments have private bathrooms<br />
with showers; kitchenettes (kettle, fridge and microwave);<br />
and simple, comfortable furnishings throughout. Q (2 apartments<br />
€30 - 50/night). JL<br />
Imbiana Apartment Rental , tel./fax 273 51 11, tel.<br />
+370 699 057 50, info@imbiana.lt, www.imbiana.lt. The<br />
company manages a number of one, two, three and four-room<br />
modern apartments for both long-term and short-term rental<br />
in the Old Town and central area of Vilnius. These people<br />
can also pick you up at the airport and arrange tours around<br />
Lithuania on request. Q From 120-250Lt/night. J<br />
Natalex B-5, Pylimo 44-19, tel. +370 614 450 08,<br />
info@natalex.info, www.natalex.info. A great web based<br />
service for finding and renting an apartment either for short<br />
or long term. There’s clear pricing, plenty of pictures of the<br />
apartment interiors and maps to show where each is located.<br />
Note that they only accept cash payment on arrival. Q 60<br />
appartments from €40- 160/night. JW<br />
where to stAy<br />
Natali Apartments Tel. +370 610 197 04, web@<br />
nakvyne.com, www.nakvyne.com. Offering apartments<br />
for rent in the Old Town of the city with simple and pleasant<br />
furnishings. Check out their website for rate specials and<br />
availability. Q (One-room apartment €30 - 35, two-room<br />
apartment €50-60/night). JL<br />
Regina House B-4, Šv Mikalojaus 13-8, tel. +370 685<br />
318 93, reginarenthouse@yahoo.com, www.reginahouse.lt.<br />
A range of flats in excellent Old Town locations, one<br />
with a huge balcony overlooking a church which, according to<br />
their website, is nice in ‘worm season’, and another with a<br />
lovely fireplace. All flats are simply but tastefully decorated.<br />
Check the website for photos and details. Q (6 apartments<br />
140 - 250Lt/night). JLW<br />
Ričardas House C-2, Pilies 12-8, tel. 261 09 03/+370<br />
684 936 96, rl_rent@yahoo.com, ricardasguesthouse.<br />
tripod.com. A series of multi-functional apartments on two<br />
floors that can be rented either separately or together, in<br />
the heart of Old Town, and offering as well as some wellappointed<br />
bedrooms a series of add-ons such as living<br />
room, dining room and balcony. Q (5 apartments 180<br />
- 350Lt/night). J<br />
Stasys Apartments Tel. +370 699 326 72, stasys@<br />
apartment-vilnius.com, www.apartment-vilnius.com.<br />
A choice of four one or two-bedroom apartments to suit<br />
every taste and budget, centrally located, and featuring<br />
everything necessary for a pleasant, self-catering stay.<br />
Satellite television in every apartment. Q (8 apartments<br />
120 - 200Lt/night). RW<br />
Vilnius Travel C-4, Didžioji 19/2, info@vilniustravel.<br />
com, www.vilniustravel.com. <strong>Your</strong> ‘Home Away From Home’<br />
is the tagline for these Old Town apartments, so you can be<br />
sure you won’t get any creative surprises when you open the<br />
door but you will get exactly what you’d expect. Each apartment<br />
can sleep up to four people. Q 5 apartments (240<br />
- 495Lt/week). JG<br />
Camping<br />
Vilnius City Camping Laisvės 5, tel. +370 680 324<br />
52, vilnius@camping.lt, www.camping.lt. A decent<br />
supervised site with good facilities including facilities for<br />
washing both yourself and your manky clothes. There’s also<br />
a barbeque and common room. Open June 1 to September<br />
10. GPS N 54o 40’ 40.1’’ E 25o 13’ 33.1’’. Q 14Lt/person<br />
plus tent (14Lt) or camper (35Lt).<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
2
2 restAurAnts<br />
If you can’t find decent quality food at fair prices in Vilnius<br />
you’re not looking. Or not hungry. The city is peppered<br />
with restaurants that can cater to all tastes and budgets.<br />
Some are grotty little hovels (we haven’t listed them) while<br />
others can be hidden gems. If there’s one rule of tongue in<br />
Vilnius, it’s that you can’t judge culinary appeal by appearance.<br />
Wonderful restaurants are melting palates behind<br />
humble doors, while miserable slop is being served up<br />
behind gleaming facades. Luckily (for you, but not always<br />
for us) we’ve done the tasting for you.<br />
The biggest problem when it comes to eating out in<br />
Vilnius, however, is the lack of service. Most restaurant<br />
staff wouldn’t know good service if it stood up in their<br />
soup. You will be ignored, served by miserable malcontents,<br />
expected to drink out of unclean glasses, made to<br />
wait until tomorrow, given something you didn’t order, not<br />
asked how you would like your steak done, have your wine<br />
glass overfilled or allowed to run dry, and so on and so on.<br />
All we can say about this is try to grin and bear it, and do<br />
provide feedback. Tip well for good service, and not at all<br />
for anything less. One day, maybe, they’ll get the message.<br />
Argentinean<br />
El Gaucho Sano C-3, Pilies 10, tel. 210 77 73, www.<br />
atrium.lt. This place normally offers sizzling excellence amid<br />
a ramshackle rawhide atmosphere, and it’s long been one of<br />
our favourites for outstanding campfire quality grilled things.<br />
Last time we went, however, our steak was utterly awful<br />
- overdone and all kind of carpety. So, that’s it! We just can’t<br />
trust them anymore and hope they all get saddle sores and<br />
scorpions in their boots and rattlers in their bedrolls. At least<br />
until they learn to cook. We’ll be lettin’ ya know if things improve.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. 50Lt. PJAUIEW<br />
Beer hall<br />
Avilys B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. 212 19 00, www.avilys.<br />
lt. While it doesn’t look like much from street level, head<br />
downstairs to find yourself in a micro-brewery-restaurant.<br />
There are vats and tubes and brick-vault dining rooms, so<br />
it’s hardly surprising that it’s a popular spot for locals as<br />
well as tourists. The food is fine, but the star of the show is<br />
easily the in-house brewed honey beer, which will give you a...<br />
erm... buzz. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. JASW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Be icicle-aware in winter<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
G Non-smoking W Wireless <strong>In</strong>ternet access<br />
X Smoking place B Outside seating<br />
I Fireplace J Old town location<br />
Bravaria G-1, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. +370 652 211 21,<br />
www.bravaria.lt. Oh, the fun of seeing freaked-out waiters<br />
scurrying about in lederhosen, and buxom, frilly-bloused girls<br />
carrying trays of beers that weigh more than they do. Yes,<br />
it’s a German beer-themed kind of place, but in addition to<br />
doing things with sausages and sauerkraut they dish-up local<br />
favourites such as fried bread and shashliks. Unfortunately<br />
the service is rubbish (except for the costumes, obviously)<br />
and it’s only really convenient if you happen to have found<br />
yourself wondering what you’re doing in the big out-of-town<br />
Akropolis shopping centre. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat<br />
10:00 - 02:00. PTAUS<br />
Belgian<br />
Paradis Belge +32 B-5, Rūdninkų 15/46, tel. 212<br />
66 03/+370 612 147 11, info@paradisbelge.lt. They<br />
recently ripped out the bar in here to make more room available<br />
for dining. And, we suggest you do whatever it takes to<br />
make more room available in your stomach prior do dining<br />
here. Meals are generous and very hearty. Some of them are<br />
served in vats. Rather than being boring stodge, however, the<br />
food is also quite interesting and tasty. Flavour and quantity<br />
… it’s a dangerous combination. Thankfully prices are such<br />
that only rich people will be able to eat themselves to death.<br />
All this in an environment that is … erm, we forget.QOpen<br />
07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
08:00 - 23:00. PJAGSW<br />
Caucasian<br />
Achtamar G-4, S.Konarskio 1-2, tel. 233 13 44/+370<br />
604 026 56, achtamar@zebra.lt, www.achtamar.lt. A<br />
dirt cheap Caucasian kitchen with a lovely gritty tang to the<br />
great-value food. Try the Khachapuri (Georgian cheesy bread),<br />
any of the grilled meats and the Georgian wines. While it’s<br />
a bit out of the way, and probably not worth a major detour,<br />
it’s a great option for something a bit different after you’ve<br />
seen a film at the nearby Forum Cinema. Service is slow,<br />
but it gives you plenty of time to fall in love with the waitress<br />
and nip to the flower market over the road. Then again, that<br />
could just lead to trouble. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 15Lt.<br />
PAEGSW<br />
Sorena A-2, Islandijos 4, tel. 262 75 60. Food here is a<br />
tasty change from the sludge and spuds that are so common<br />
in Lithuania, but it’s also a bit maladroit if you’re looking<br />
for the sort of zesty Caucasian creation that makes sweat<br />
squirt out of your ears. <strong>In</strong> other words, it’s safe - anodyne<br />
Azerbaijan. The only ‘gimmicks’ are those related to eating<br />
and drinking, which is a good sign. ‘Shashliks’ are served on<br />
skewers so long that you could sword-fight with them, and<br />
Georgian wine is presented in a tusk. Actually, come to think<br />
of it, things could get very interesting here. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />
15Lt. JAEGSW
Central Asian<br />
Čingischanas A-3, J.Basanavičiaus 8/1, tel. +370<br />
619 128 16, info@cingischanas.lt. At the suggestion of<br />
a reader we went along to try the mashed potato in chicken<br />
skins. Quite a tasty beer snack if you like blubber-wrapped<br />
pus. After salivating over the menu and the prospect of further<br />
delights, however, we found that our dish of choice, marked<br />
as ‘recommended’, was not available. We asked for another<br />
recommendation and ended up with some kind of kebaby<br />
thing that amounted to meat balls-up - tasty, but a bit dry and<br />
crumbly. Service also lacked tenderness. No wonder there<br />
are no camels tied up out front. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. TJEGS<br />
Chinese<br />
Čili Kinija I-2, Žirmūnų 68a, tel. 277 41 11, www.cili.<br />
lt. This place is in an out-of-town and somewhat shabby<br />
sleeping district, but they do offer delivery and are therefore<br />
worth a mention. The good thing about this place is that,<br />
unlike some other Chinese restaurants, you can get small<br />
portions that can be combined to make a meal suitable for<br />
one. For delivery, call 1822. You can also order online, but<br />
the website is only in Lithuanian. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
15Lt. PAGSW<br />
Didžioji Kinija H-2, Konstitucijos 12, tel. 263 63<br />
63, info@kinuvirtuve.lt, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. The food<br />
here is so extreme in both quantity and flavour that when<br />
your stomach says ‘Stop!’ your mouth won’t listen, leaving<br />
your legs with the unenviable task of waddling you<br />
home sometime later. Portions are big enough to share,<br />
and given that they cost a bomb, that’s probably what is<br />
intended. It would be better if they could offer dishes of half the<br />
size at half the price. The interior is all very oriental and lush,<br />
with red and gold splashed about the place, a chatty budgie,<br />
and big comfy seats that you will have difficulty extricating<br />
yourself from. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PTAGS<br />
Du Drakonai B-2, Labdarių 8, tel. 212 77 07, 2drakonai@gmail.com.<br />
The ‘two dragons’ that the name refers<br />
to are the brothers and owners, and what a jolly fine job<br />
they’ve done fitting out this place. There’s fountains, Chinese<br />
carvings in wood and stone, comfortable furniture, fine place<br />
settings and a very swanky VIP hall and separate conference<br />
area. Even the walls are great, if you’ll excuse the pun, with<br />
exposed rocks or frescoes and artwork. The menu is similarly<br />
impressive with over 200 dishes, most with small and large<br />
portions available, all created with the authentic flair of a<br />
Chinese chef. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
25Lt. JALGSW<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Kinų Restoranas A-4, Trakų 4, tel. 231 45 77/+370<br />
616 332 46. A grungy little box with grubby pastel walls<br />
and manky carpet, but worth a mention for the hilariously<br />
friendly staff, good value food with full-on flavours, and the<br />
presence of ‘chicken dicky with nuts’ in the menu. The soft<br />
of place that you’ll only want to go to once, but will remember<br />
forever. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
PTJGSW<br />
Kinų Rožė G-4, Savanorių 1 (Helios City centre,<br />
2nd floor), tel. 265 26 53, kinuroze@meniu.lt, www.<br />
kinupatiekalai.lt. Notable only for being one of only<br />
two restaurants where you can place your order on a<br />
table-side computer. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri<br />
11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
PAGS<br />
Pekinas H-4, Algirdo 28, tel. 215 16 20, info@kinuvirtuve.lt,<br />
www.kinuvirtuve.lt. A huge choice of dishes,<br />
featuring a million and one things to do with a chickens, cows,<br />
sheep, rabbits, ducks, snails and frogs. <strong>In</strong>deed, everything<br />
except the standard Chinese staples of snake and dog are<br />
dished up here. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00<br />
- 22:00. 25Lt. PAGS<br />
Pekino Antis G-4, Algirdo 2, tel. 233 99 99, info@<br />
kinuvirtuve.lt, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. Although they serve<br />
their classic namesake dish, Peking duck, one must call in<br />
advance to arrange for its preparation. If you do not, there<br />
are still ample options on the menu. Pricier than even the<br />
most memorable restaurants in town, you do get some<br />
bang for your buck. Heaping, sometimes excessive, portions<br />
that somehow all taste the same can be washed down with<br />
some equally large Chinese beers. For all its elegance, we<br />
were somewhat surprised at the absence of linen napkins.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 30Lt.<br />
PTASW<br />
Sičuan B-1, Gedimino 9 (inside the shopping centre),<br />
tel. 265 58 88, www.sicuan.lt. Sichuan is a Chinese<br />
province commonly believed to be the origin of gong bao<br />
jiding, a popular chicken dish. It actually originated in the<br />
neighbouring province of Guiyang, but the Sichuans nicked it<br />
and added peanuts. Not surprisingly, you can get the dish here<br />
and, equally not-surprisingly, it’s not very good. It lacks the<br />
hallmark aroma and spicy-sweetness. And it’s so glutinous<br />
that it should only be approached by Ghostbusters and if you<br />
don’t eat it all it will follow you home. The restaurant does,<br />
however, have a wonderful and bright dining area overlooking<br />
the back of a church - one of the best dining rooms in<br />
town. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. 20Lt.<br />
PJAS<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
2
2<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Trys Klevai C-3, Pilies 16/2, tel. 261 62 96, trys.klevai@centras.lt.<br />
The ‘three maples’ sounds a bit Canadian<br />
and has a waiter who seems a bit quirky in a French kind of way<br />
and might even be called Dominique. And there’s a fish tank.<br />
Once you get over all that strangeness you can enjoy a huge<br />
range of meals that will leave your taste buds zinging merrily.<br />
As is the case with most Chinese restaurants in Vilnius, portions<br />
are big enough to share, and hence pricey if you’re eating<br />
alone. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PJASW<br />
Czech<br />
Pas Rudolfą II G-3, Gedimino 46, tel. 249 66 68,<br />
info@alausklubas.lt, www.alausklubas.lt. Iron gloves<br />
punch through walls, hold up lamps and set the scene. Assorted<br />
weapons and a bookcase full of helmets complete<br />
the medieval theme. The main attractions, however, are<br />
the Czech food and beer. The former is hearty and tasty in<br />
a lump of meat and gravy-soaked bread kind of way. And<br />
the beer has a reputation that speaks for itself and says<br />
‘Oh, alright then, one more round… hic.’ A nice alternative<br />
to Lithuanian restaurants. There’s every chance you’ll<br />
end up leaving wearing a suit of armour. Or at least a very<br />
big grin. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00.<br />
PASW<br />
Fine Dining<br />
Apvalaus Stalo Klubas Karaimų 53a, tel. +370 528<br />
555 95, fax +370 528 517 60, info@asklubas.lt, www.<br />
asklubas.lt. The two-in-one venue should please everybody,<br />
which is good because everybody comes to Trakai at<br />
some time. There’s both a pizerria and a posh restaurant,<br />
and both have a lovely lake-side location with stunning<br />
castle views. The food in the pizzerria is casually decent<br />
and the posh tucker is worth forking out for - it ranges from<br />
rather good to divine and can be accompanied with superb<br />
wines, sommelier ceromony and all. Wonderful location,<br />
wonderful food and, if you appreciate finer things, worth<br />
the admittedly high prices. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. 50Lt.<br />
PAUISW<br />
Brunello (Pramogų bankas) A-2, Pamėnkalnio 7/8,<br />
tel. +370 700 555 55, pramogubankas@nese.lt, www.<br />
pramogubankas.lt. Swish past the garish bling downstairs,<br />
head straight to the second floor, nestle into this stylish and<br />
refined restaurant and enjoy delicate and delicious meals presented<br />
by robotic penguins. The food here really is quite good,<br />
with seafood coming up above-par. The selection of wines<br />
is broad and covers the range from good basics to stupidly<br />
expensive impress-the-bimbo angel tears. The only complaint<br />
we could make about this place (for we can’t let them get away<br />
with thinking they’re perfect, now, can we?) is that service is too<br />
stiffly formal. Take a whoopee cushion and see if you can make<br />
the waiter laugh. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat<br />
14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. JE<br />
La Provence B-4, Vokiečių 22, tel. 262 02 57, www.<br />
laprovence.lt. Despite the name, the focus of this fine restaurant<br />
is not just French. The menu now features an array<br />
of tempting creations with many and varied Mediterranean<br />
influences, such as Spanish and Italian. There has, however,<br />
been no variation of the stubborn dedication to gourmet<br />
quality and exquisite presentation. Appetizers are still delicate<br />
and delightful, like having angels canoodling gently on<br />
your tongue, and mains now offers more melodies of texture<br />
and taste that will make your taste buds swoon. Service is<br />
exemplary, and comes with a hint of theatre, completing the<br />
experience. Expensive? Of course. And rightly so. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. 60 Lt. PJAS<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
NEw<br />
Marino G-3, A.Tumėno 4, tel. 240 96 77, marino.restaurant@gmail.com,<br />
www.marino-restaurant.lt. Quite<br />
out of this world in terms of ambience, quality and service.<br />
This is, quite simply, the best restaurant in Vilnius. The food<br />
is simple but superb, service is competent and doting without<br />
being overwhelming, and the atmosphere is all at once<br />
crisp, futuristic and cosy. You sit in classic-styled furniture<br />
in a glass tube hovering over a highway, and as lights zoom<br />
past beneath you, command them to catch a crayfish from<br />
the little pool and, well… just settle in for a superb dining<br />
experience. They really are setting new standards here, and<br />
our only complaint is that they didn’t do it sooner. Bravo! But<br />
it's a shame they refuse to offer tap water.QOpen 11:00<br />
- 23:00. 60Lt. PAUS<br />
Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7 (Stikliai Hotel), tel. 264 95 80, fax<br />
212 38 70, www.stikliaihotel.lt. A somewhat old fashioned<br />
recipe of formality, fusty faff and excellent food and service<br />
ensures this place retains a spot close to the top of the list<br />
of restaurants for the sorts of people who get other people to<br />
polish their shoes and clean their toilets. It’s also an excellent<br />
choice for normal people (that’s you, probably) who wish to<br />
spoil themselves and enjoy an occassional treat. Excellent<br />
food in an excellent location.Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00<br />
- 24:00. Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 70Lt. PJASW<br />
Vilniaus Bastėja C-5, Subačiaus 15/2, tel. 212 74<br />
51/212 74 52, info@vilniausbasteja.lt, www.vilniausbasteja.lt.<br />
What were they thinking? Actually, we know<br />
exactly what they were thinking because the local papers<br />
were full of stories about how this place aims to be one of the<br />
top 100 restaurants in the world. HAHA!!! (Cough ... splutter<br />
...)While there’s no chance of that, the food here is actually<br />
quite good if you can stop laughing long enough to eat any<br />
of it. The hilarity stems from over the top Russian style<br />
kitsch. There are fish tanks, fountains, fairy lights, flat screen<br />
televisions and lots of other nonsense that results from lots<br />
of money and no taste. Good for a laugh. Could be worth<br />
considering in winter if they get the fireplace going.QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PJAIESW<br />
French<br />
Garden Brasserie B-1, Gedimino 16, tel. 266 62 00. It’s<br />
not in a garden, but it is a brasserie – an inexpensive French<br />
style restaurant – in the true sense of the word. It’s also a<br />
hotel restaurant which means it has to be inoffensive to everyone<br />
and lacks any quirky character or homely charm. Given<br />
the quality of the nicely crafted meals, the equally inoffensive<br />
prices, and a nice view of what is often called the Champs-<br />
Elysées of Vilnius, however, who cares if it’s a bit dull? This is<br />
a hidden treat that is often undeservedly overlooked. Keep it<br />
in mind for a classy lunch. They offer some good value meals<br />
by day, but watch the prices of the drinks.QOpen 06:00<br />
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. PTJASW<br />
Les Amis C-4, Savičiaus 7, tel. 212 37 38, fax 233 78<br />
57. Quite simply one of the best restaurants in Vilnius in<br />
terms of value, quality and a lovely homely atmosphere. If<br />
you’re more interested in having a decent meal and a nice<br />
glass of wine than you are in swanking around town like a<br />
new-money moron, then pop in here and enjoy the simple<br />
and honest casual quality. Consistently good and always<br />
thoroughly enjoyable. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />
25Lt. JAGS<br />
www.inyourpocket.com
2<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Japanese<br />
Hanabi C-3, Didžioji 28 (2nd floor), tel. 260 90 20,<br />
hanabi@helios.lt, www.hanabi.lt. Whether it be teppanyaki,<br />
sushi, or just clumsily using chopsticks to stick<br />
food up your nose, you can do it in elegant bamboo-clad<br />
style here. There’s something about Japanese that manages<br />
to find a confluence, or possibly confusion, of formality<br />
and fun, and when combined with delicious food it is<br />
the perfect recipe for a pleasant evening. Small parties<br />
can even shuffle their socks into cute little private rooms<br />
with karaoke machines, where you can singing badly while<br />
all your friends mime chopstick hara-kiri. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 24:00. 50Lt. PJASW<br />
Osaka A-2, Vilniaus 19, tel. 261 71 76, www.osaka.<br />
lt. A few soups, some mediocre noodles, bored-looking<br />
staff waiting for something engaging to do, a clever smart<br />
‘n’ sparse Japanese-style interior and some rather good<br />
sushi. If you want taste and texture to frolic on our tongue<br />
like an orgy of Hello Kitties, pop in and indulge. Oh - but<br />
you’ll have to open your wallet wider than your mouth -<br />
the sushi are tiny and the prices are a bit high. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. PJAS<br />
NEw<br />
Sinto C-3, Pilies 30, tel. +370 652 844 21, vilnius@<br />
sinto.lt. Even if you’re not a great fan of Japanese food,<br />
the glossy, pictorial menu here is likely to have something<br />
that will appeal. The sushi, however, are sublime - easily<br />
the highlight. It’s a clean, white and crisp space with<br />
that cosy simplicity that the Japanese do so well. Little<br />
pictures of geishas faffing about with fans and umbrellas<br />
adorn the walls, and little bonsai shrubs decorate the<br />
tables. (They’re real, not plastic. We know because we<br />
set one on fire.) Most pleasing for a decent restaurant<br />
in this central location is that the prices are surprisingly<br />
slim. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
25Lt. PJAS<br />
Tokyo A-1, A.Vienuolio 4, tel. +370 700 555 99,<br />
www.grandcasino.lt. There are a few rocks and sticks<br />
and shiny black tables and loads of minimalist style.<br />
Which is nice. But there’s also an emphasis on simple<br />
quality. Which is even nicer. The meals here benefit from<br />
high quality ingredients, skilful preperation and overall<br />
authenticity. Overpriced underspiced Thai food is also<br />
availalbe from the neighbouring Thai Gourmet restaurant.<br />
Call 1822 for home delivery. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
50Lt. PJAS<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Saint Germain D-3, Literatų 9, tel. 262 12 10, vynine@<br />
vynine.lt, www.vynine.lt. A whitewashed and pleasantly<br />
provincial bistro that somehow manages to be as appropriate<br />
for puppy-sweet, doe-eyed dating as it is for gracious<br />
or gourmand little gatherings. The food - the range of which<br />
makes repeat visits irresistible - is superbly succulent and<br />
jostles for main attraction status with the impressive range<br />
of wines. Prices are reasonable, and the only let-downs are<br />
the service (a bit slipshod for a place like this) and the fact<br />
that if you haven’t booked you probably won’t get a table.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 35Lt. JAGSW<br />
Greek<br />
S. Metaxa C-2, Pilies 5, tel. +370 652 003 30, info@<br />
liutuvartai.lt, www.liutuvartai.lt. We like the way the<br />
salads are forged with big, fat, Greek shredding, and you<br />
get the interesting addition of apples with your souvlaki, the<br />
hit-and-miss service is a bit of a let-down here. Sometimes<br />
it’s fine, sometimes you have to wait until you’re dead before<br />
they bring the wrong meal to your grandchildren. Prices are<br />
reasonable, so if you’ve got time up your sleeve, it’s a good<br />
option. WiFi is free here. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat<br />
10:00 - 01:00. 20Lt. JAGSW<br />
Hungarian<br />
Csarda C-3, Šv.Mykolo 4-1, tel. +370 659 555 52,<br />
csarda@csarda.lt, www.csarda.lt. Feels like a forest cottage<br />
hideaway made of mud, gypsy tears and wood. Rammed<br />
with furniture stolen from someone with a splendid pointed<br />
moustache. A nice atmosphere in which to try Hungarian fare<br />
which tends to be good honest grub with a griddle-seared tang.<br />
We would prefer to see more dead animals and fewer dead<br />
plants on the plate, but meals are still satisfying. The selection<br />
of wines is also worth burrowing into this charming little side<br />
street for and will probably ensure you bounce off the walls on<br />
your way out.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. JAGS<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian<br />
Briusly (Bruce Lee) B-3, Šv. Ignoto 14, tel. 212 12<br />
15/+370 655 971 11, briusli.baras@gmail.com. A modest<br />
menu that claims to be pan-Asian offers great-value, tasty<br />
meals for a pittance. While this is more a bar with meals than<br />
a proper restaurant, it’s a top spot for a quick, cheap lunch. It’s<br />
more casual than culinary and there’s normally more quaffing<br />
than scoffing going on, but it’s one of the few places where<br />
you can get a hot curry and hang around with a cool crowd.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. JASW<br />
Sue’s <strong>In</strong>dian Raja B-2, Odminių 3, tel. 266 18 88,<br />
suesrestaurants@gmail.com, www.suesindianrestaurants.com.<br />
Come on, Raj. Dish up a dodgy meal so we can<br />
write a spicy review. We’ve been coming here for ages and<br />
haven’t had a bad meal yet. Always cooked to perfection,<br />
always delicious, always tempting to gobble until you explode.<br />
Really, whether it be authentic <strong>In</strong>dian cuisine or more popular<br />
Brit-curries, the food here is consistently top-notch. The<br />
atmosphere, while a little gilded for t-shirt-and-jeans types,<br />
is also always pleasant and welcoming. Far from a flash in<br />
the pan, this restaurant has achieved consistency and quality<br />
that demands respect. And second helpings. Don’t miss it.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. JASW<br />
www.inyourpocket.com
<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Artis B-2, Liejyklos 11/23, tel. 266 03 66, artis@<br />
centrumhotels.com, www.centrumhotels.com. Ideal for<br />
airy-fairies who wish to dine in a pretty conservatory, as well<br />
as those who wish to slip something radioactive into the soup<br />
of big wigs and NATO types who pop in from the Defence<br />
Ministry next door. The reasonably priced hotel-restaurant<br />
menu offers pleasing and fair-value meals, but lacks highlights.<br />
So, if your meal starts glowing, run. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
25Lt. PJAULSW<br />
Bistro 18 C-3, Stiklių 18, tel. +370 677 720 91/+370<br />
683 036 73, bistro18@gmail.com. A bright, clean, simple<br />
and modern place that is somehow also very cosy and welcoming.<br />
Probably something to do with the fact that the staff<br />
smile and say hello and seem to be genuinely pleased to see<br />
you. The menu is poetry: there’s not a lot in it, but each entry<br />
is well chosen and something is bound to charm you. Food is<br />
of a high standard and very reasonably priced, and there’s<br />
a good range of wine to keep cellar snobs sipping. This is a<br />
wonderful new addition to the Vilnius dining scene. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. 25Lt. PTJAS<br />
Brasserie Astorija C-4, Didžioji 35/2 (inside the<br />
Radisson Hotel), tel. 212 01 10, reservations.vilnius@<br />
radissonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. A genteel gastronomic<br />
gallimaufry bestowed by staff who have a magic ability<br />
to emerge from nowhere in a gracefully zooming arabesque<br />
to tend to your willy-nilly whim - usually quite soon after you<br />
whimmed it. You get to sit in a terrarium and get gawped at<br />
by passers-by. It is claimed that this is the height of dining in<br />
Vilnius. If they ascended any further they would be inside out.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 50Lt. PTJAUSW<br />
Cozy C-3, Dominikonų 10, tel. 261 11 37, fax 278 42<br />
60, info@cozy.lt, www.cozy.lt. Cozy offers a cool place<br />
to kick back that is as fresh and clean as it is smooth and<br />
groovy. They could easily lie back and enjoy such a loungey<br />
lifestyle. But no! That’s not enough here, and so they also<br />
maintain high standards in the kitchen and offer some pleasing<br />
meals, including some of Vilnius’ best lunchtime value. A true<br />
cornerstone of the local café scene, and not to be missed.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. 25Lt. JASW<br />
Degantis Rūsys C-5, Subačiaus 1, tel. 262 29 09,<br />
www.idabasar.lt. This glass box contains lots of old<br />
fashioned coffee grinders, some cakes and a tree. It offers a<br />
lovely view of Lithuanians trying to park their cars - always<br />
highly amusing - and the National Philharmonic building. They<br />
do serve bog-standard food, but this place is best suited for<br />
the coffee-and-cake tourist break. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. 20Lt. JAS<br />
Dvaras B-1, Tilto 3, tel. 210 73 70, www.dvaras.lt. An<br />
elegant restaurant situated in a quiant cellar inside an equally<br />
charming hotel, serving a good range of high quality international<br />
dishes alongside a well-chosen wine menu. The meat<br />
dishes are particularly exceptional, but do remember to leave<br />
some room for one of the legendary desserts. Great service<br />
too. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.<br />
20Lt. PJAL<br />
Esse A-3, J.Basanavičiaus 13, tel. 210 25 11, fax 210<br />
25 25, info@esse.lt, www.esse.lt. Hardly modern or<br />
welcoming, but worthwhile for the murky period charm, pretty<br />
good food and decent service. They’ve tickled-up an upstairs<br />
room in the Russian Drama Theatre, so there’s nice tables with<br />
nice silverware rattling away on a clacketty old parquetry floor.<br />
restAurAnts<br />
A word on water<br />
Vilnius has a high quality water supply, and the stuff that<br />
comes out of the tap is perfectly drinkable. It can be a<br />
good idea to filter it if you’re fussy about taste, but it’s<br />
not going to do you any harm.<br />
While iced tap water is a standard and complimentary<br />
offering in western restaurants, many restaurants in<br />
Vilnius refuse to serve it at all. Many also refuse to stock<br />
local bottled water so, unless you want to drink alcohol<br />
or something fizzy, you end up paying a fortune for a<br />
small quantity of imported bottled water. Restaurants<br />
think this is a matter of prestige. They imagine they’re<br />
being sophisticated and trendy serving only imported<br />
water and charging 7Lt for 250ml of it. We think they’re<br />
being stupid and mean.<br />
Both the manufacture of all these plastic water bottles<br />
and the process of transporting them to Lithuania, a<br />
country arguably named after rain, is environmentally<br />
damaging. And will the restaurant recycle your plastic<br />
bottle? Ask them.<br />
Due to such environmental and economic considerations,<br />
some restaurants in America and the UK now<br />
refuse to serve bottled water at all, and it has been<br />
banned in some government departments. The trend<br />
is clear: imported bottled water is bad.<br />
We suggest you buy a bottle of locally produced water<br />
from a supermarket and keep it in your bag. When you<br />
go to a restaurant, ask for tap water. If they refuse to<br />
offer it, just drink your own water. There’s certainly no<br />
reason why you should be paying a fortune to drink<br />
imported bottled water in Vilnius.<br />
There’s wallpaper on the ceiling, heavy drapes, fake-candle<br />
chandeliers and miscellaneous upper-class glum. Prices are<br />
high and servings are slight, but the friendly and competent<br />
service makes lingering through a business lunch or a few<br />
courses of dinner a pleasure.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 22:00. JAS<br />
Fortas H-4, Algirdo 17, tel. 212 20 00, algirdo@fortas.<br />
eu, www.fortas.eu. Designed by someone who dreams of<br />
home shows and department stores, the interior here is a<br />
clever cluster of zones offering different dining styles. There’s<br />
a lounge area, diner style seating along the window, what<br />
feels like a country manor living room, and a massive bar. The<br />
glossy menu also has something for everyone, with a bit of<br />
an emphasis on Italian dishes. Good enough and affordable<br />
enough to be a frequent treat - it’s not fancy, but it’s pretty<br />
much faultless. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PTAUSW<br />
Grand Pub A-1, A.Vienuolio 4, tel. +370 700 555 99,<br />
info@grandcasino.lt, www.grandcasino.lt. For a swish<br />
looking bar they turn out great meals, and decent value at<br />
lunchtime. There’s fish, steaks, snags, pasta and something<br />
resembling a hamburger. With comfy couches, decent food,<br />
101 flat screens (43, actually, but who’s counting?) and<br />
waitresses in frilly, girly maid outfits, it’s a pleasant retreat for<br />
blokes. Girls can just nibble a salad. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PJAS<br />
Gras’as C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. +370 699 300 52, info@<br />
grasas.lt, www.grasas.lt. Slip into your lumberjack kit, tuck<br />
a gnome under your arm and step inside for some wacky<br />
grass-inspired nonsense. Tables are mock logs, there’s a tree<br />
stopping the roof from caving in and of course there’s green<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
2
0<br />
restAurAnts<br />
fuzz everywhere. Clearly a lot of grass was involved during<br />
the design phase. While it’s more a bar than a restaurant, the<br />
meals are good value and the overall nuttiness of the place<br />
makes a visit well worthwhile at anytime. Note that the five<br />
per cent service charge that is added to your bill goes to<br />
the greedy management, not to the waitstaff. If you want to<br />
reward your waiter or waitress, you’ll have to tip more. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. 20Lt.<br />
JAES<br />
Ibish Lounge C-5, Aušros Vartų 11, tel. 260 90 65,<br />
info@ibishlounge.com, www.ibishlounge.com. A bright,<br />
colourful and lively little lounge where you can join street<br />
fashion guys and gazelles for a nice-price lunch or pleasant<br />
evening meal. The food is stylish, simple, and very tasty. A bit<br />
like the people who eat it, really. While this place has found its<br />
niche as a cocktail bar, the kitchen, furniture, lighting and fish<br />
tank are all worthy of respect. <strong>In</strong> that order. QOpen Mon, Thu<br />
12:00 - 03:00, Tue, Wed, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00<br />
- 05:00. 30Lt. JASW<br />
IdaBasar C-5, Subačiaus 3 (IdaBasar Hotel), tel. 262<br />
84 84, office@idabasar.lt. Dabbling in both the gourmet<br />
and the flambé, the two options at Ida are never bizarre. The<br />
ground floor atrium café is ideal for lunch and the Tart Flambé<br />
is still believed to be some of the best pizza in town. The food<br />
served at the kitchen downstairs is focused on awards and<br />
accolades and is justifiably refined. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 20Lt. JAS<br />
La Mamà C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. 260 90 09, restoranas@<br />
lamama.lt, www.lamama.lt. A heavenly location to sample<br />
expertly prepared seafood, poultry and grilled meats. The<br />
steaks are succulent, velvety bliss. We’ve also enjoyed a quail<br />
stuffed with foie gras, but it has since been replaced with a<br />
pheasant and the concoction has gone on to win culinary<br />
awards. Dishes are pricey and puny but quality and location<br />
make up for it. Unfortunately, service bumbles between naïve<br />
arrogance and incompetence, and they flat-out refuse to<br />
serve local water – foibles that ruin an otherwise excellent<br />
restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 50Lt. PJAESW<br />
Liv Lounge G-3, Gynėjų 14 (inside the glass bowl), tel.<br />
242 10 55, lounge@rangagroup.com, www.vilniausvartai.lt.<br />
A big, bright and trendy space scattered with brown and<br />
beige sofas in which posers will slump about. The people on the<br />
floor are the ones who have just seen the prices and died. The<br />
only people who are both rich and stupid enough to pay such<br />
prices are politicians, and they’re not cool enough to come here.<br />
There is a cheap lunch menu but the food it offers is rubbish. If<br />
you’ve got the cash, this is a great place for smooth talking and<br />
slick drinking, but what it offers more than anything else is lost<br />
potential. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat<br />
15:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PAUS<br />
Mano Guru B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. 212 01 26. If you’re sick<br />
of the ‘one potato, two potato, three potato … more’ style<br />
dishes in Vilnius, head in here for some rabbit food. It’s all<br />
very potting-shed and the dishes—salads, all of them—look<br />
like Laura Ashley gardening get-up. It’s not going to leave<br />
anyone satiated, but it’s a nice place for girly, blousey types<br />
who want a minimalist décor and supermodel portions. No<br />
alcohol.QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
TJASW<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Markus ir Ko C-3, M.Antokolskio 11, tel. 262 31 85,<br />
markusirko@takas.lt. It’s Litho-American, with black-andwhite<br />
pictures of Marilyn Monroe on the walls and herring<br />
in the menu. The main attraction to this waiters-in-jeans<br />
casual-kinda place, however, is the quality of the steak. For<br />
a big lump of juicy beef, it’s hard to beat. It’s certainly not<br />
cheap, but carnivores won’t come away feeling ripped-off.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 45Lt. JAESW<br />
Medininkai C-5, Aušros Vartų 6, tel. 266 07 71/+370<br />
650 006 00, medininkai@europaroyale.lt, www.medininkai.lt.<br />
Dining rooms are fairy-tale gorgeous and food is<br />
almost orgasmically good, but not quite. (Thank heavens for<br />
that! You don’t want to peak too early in the evening.) The<br />
menu is problematic in that it offers such a range of interesting<br />
temptations that choosing is difficult. Service is a bit<br />
bumbling, but if you tell them what to do (‘I’d like fresh bread,<br />
served with butter’) they will happily and enthusiastically<br />
oblige. While meals are not large, the whole experience oozes<br />
storybook charm and character, making for an exquisite dining<br />
experience. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 45Lt. JASW<br />
Neringa H-3, Gedimino 23, tel. 261 40 58, fax 260 93<br />
19, info@restoranasneringa.lt, www.restoranasneringa.<br />
lt. A delightful little rupture in the fabric of the space-time<br />
continuum. This place used to be a hive of hobnobbing Soviet<br />
snobskis and the occasional proles who had saved up enough<br />
to bribe the doorman. Now it’s just a weird remnant with a dashing<br />
Soviet mural and wacky interior design. Unfortunately the<br />
food – breaded bits of meat served with a few greens, mostly<br />
– is no longer authentic (Soviets didn’t do crinkle-cut chips) but<br />
is at least vaguely themed on traditions and fairly good value.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00<br />
- 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. TJAESW<br />
Pegasus C-3, Didžioji 11, tel. 260 94 30, info@restaurantpegasus.lt,<br />
www.restaurantpegasus.lt. This really is<br />
a wonderful place for a weekday lunch. The minimalist style,<br />
comfy chairs, English reading matter and friendly service are all<br />
perfectly enjoyable. But the real pleasure is knowing that the local<br />
trendy troopers will turn up in the evening to pay twice what<br />
you paid for much the same thing, effectively subsidising your<br />
lunch. The food is middling fusion-confusion - pleasant but not<br />
quite what one would expect of such a fancy-looking restaurant.<br />
Tap water is available if you ask for it, and we suggest you do<br />
so because the drink prices are a bit cheeky. QOpen 11:30<br />
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00. 30Lt. PJASW<br />
Penktadienis D-4, Bokšto 19/12, tel. 266 08 42/+370<br />
652 114 07, visada.penktadienis@gmail.com. They’ve<br />
dropped their previously outrageous prices. Now they’re just a<br />
bit expensive. Those not on a budget can enjoy a unique and<br />
chipper interior - muddled, modern and comfortably arty - and<br />
meals that will be acceptable to all but the most pernickety<br />
gastromoans. The cheesecake is worth popping in for - it’s<br />
the best we’ve found in Vilnius. Overall, this is an ideal place to<br />
impress footballers’ wives, a twittering harem or high school<br />
art teachers who normally have to rummage in bins for a<br />
decent meal. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PJAUW<br />
Rūsio Restoranas (Cellar Restaurant) C-3, Pilies<br />
24 (Narutis Hotel), tel. 261 77 22, fax 262 28 82, info@<br />
narutis.com, www.narutis.com. We’re not sure which was<br />
worse: the service or the food. We were tempted to chew an<br />
arm off while waiting for the food, and after it arrived, wished<br />
that we had. It would have tasted good in comparison to the<br />
ropey meal we had here. The setting is quaint and snugtucked<br />
into arched-ceiling cellars, the menu is brief but well<br />
rounded, but ultimately this is an overdone underindulgence.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 40Lt. PJALSW
Riverside Restaurant H-2, Konstitucijos 20 (inside<br />
the Reval Hotel), tel. 231 48 21, riverside@revalhotels.com.<br />
What has always been a restaurant that does<br />
everything well - food, service, coping with queens and<br />
crowds alike - has recently been renovated. There’s a new<br />
Asian-ish touch to the place, a swanky big wine cabinet<br />
and a smartly efficient buffet facility that can cope with a<br />
hotel full of hunger. The menu has also been renovated with<br />
some warming dishes for winter and options that include a<br />
bit of table-side serving theatre (although, sadly, nothing<br />
gets set on fire). Other thoughtful touches include a crèche<br />
corner to keep kids amused. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 35Lt.<br />
PTAULESW<br />
Sonnets D-2, Bernardinų 8/8 (Shakespeare Hotel), tel.<br />
266 58 85, www.shakespeare.lt. Feed your mind as well<br />
as your face. Books line the walls of the various gorgeously<br />
decorated dining rooms and one lounge-bar, ensuring an air<br />
of sophistication and elegance, and something to read if<br />
you come alone (or with very boring company). <strong>In</strong>deed, this<br />
delightfully unique venue offers a wonderful opportunity for<br />
a night of fine cuisine for romantic couples, suave business<br />
types, bookish loners and, dare we suggest, the cook, the<br />
thief, his wife and her lover. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun<br />
07:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PJAESW<br />
Steak House Hazienda D-3, Maironio 13 (Mabre<br />
Hotel), tel. 212 13 89, www.mabre.lt. While it has all<br />
the makings of a good steakhouse - a frumpy lack of style,<br />
a good wine list and half-decent service - the steaks aren’t<br />
actually very good. Or not reliably very good. Don’t get us<br />
wrong - they’re not bad - they’re just not melt-in-your-mouth<br />
good. And they’re not cheap, either. Fine if you’re staying<br />
nearby, or someone else is paying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
50Lt. PTJAESW<br />
Tores I-4, Užupio 40, tel. 262 93 09/+370 603 905 24,<br />
restoranas@tores.lt, www.tores.lt. The elevated hillside<br />
location is only really appealing in summer, but the stuff-you<br />
attitude and crappy service elevates hackles all-year-round.<br />
There are some nice dining rooms inside, but they’re not<br />
worth going out of the way for, and the prices are too high<br />
for the average quality of the food. We also don’t like being<br />
told how we would like our steak done or being charged extra<br />
for butter to go on our bread. Grumble... grumble... grumble...<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. ASW<br />
Vandens Malūnas Verkių 100, tel. 271 16 66, info@<br />
vandensmalunas.lt, www.vandensmalunas.lt. A classic<br />
19th century watermill restored into a first class 21st<br />
century restaurant, with European appeal. Located near<br />
the historic Verkiai castle, the mill overlooks the Neris river.<br />
It is an ideal setting anytime of year, but especially during<br />
the summer months when you can sit amongst the water<br />
rolling over the rock foundation. During winter, the rocky<br />
fireplaces and cellar setting make it a cosy place for a<br />
hearty respite. The menu is classically European and a mixture<br />
of many kinds of foods. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt.<br />
TAES<br />
Veranda F-2, Kęstučio 39, tel. 272 18 11. Here’s a classy<br />
and cosy little cabin you can escape to when you do want to<br />
dine somewhere moderately nice, thank you very much, but<br />
don’t want to share the experience with tourists. There are no<br />
menus in English, and the staff don’t speak English, so unless<br />
you enjoy imitating a chicken to indicate what you want to eat,<br />
it might be best enjoyed with a local friend. Food is simple and<br />
satisfying, but elegantly presented, making this an unpretentious<br />
pleasure. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 15Lt. PAS<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Verkiai Žaliųjų ežerų 49, tel. 210 23 33, info@verkiai.lt,<br />
www.verkiai.lt. This really is something special. A<br />
charming renovated manor hosts a range of dining including<br />
a pleasant café, a cosy fireplace room for small groups<br />
(ideal for close family functions) and a large, gleaming main<br />
dining hall. The atmosphere is fresh and refined - not<br />
fusty or off-puttingly pompous. The quality and range of<br />
food is very good although, strangely, the English version<br />
of the menu offers more options than the Lithuanian<br />
version. Overall, they’ve done a grand job of offering a<br />
delightful and dignified dining experience while still being<br />
approachable to all but the most dedicated riff-faff. 20Lt<br />
taxi ride to get there from Old town. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
AUIS<br />
Vila Gloria Belmonto 17, tel. +370 615 202 20, info@<br />
belmontas.lt. “I’ll have a fillet of skate, Dom Perignon,<br />
and an inflatable pony.” This would have to be the only<br />
restaurant in Vilnius that has a swimming pool in the middle<br />
of the dining room. It’s nice to know it’s there even if<br />
it is covered up in winter. Even if you don’t fancy a dip you’ll<br />
appreciate the mansion like atmosphere, fine white-linen<br />
dining, the small but well chosen range of meals, an open<br />
fireplace, and a star studded wine list. Keep in mind the<br />
outdoor dining and dancing for summer. Ideal for a special<br />
treat. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. 40Lt.<br />
AIEW<br />
Zoe’s Bar & Grill B-2, Odminių 3, tel. 212 33 31. Service<br />
is as happy and bouncy as a puppy at tea time. Food, ranging<br />
from burgers to beavers, is refreshingly good. Meats are<br />
tender, curries are properly spicy, soups swim with flavour - if<br />
there is disappointment in the menu we didn’t find it. Also,<br />
the atmosphere is zip-dippedy-doo-dah bright and dazzling.<br />
We give it twelve thumbs up. (Fourteen on Thursdays when<br />
the cleaning lady comes.) Really, for a fresh, fun and friendly<br />
place that meets international standards, Zoe’s can’t be<br />
beaten. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.<br />
25Lt. JASW<br />
Irish<br />
Dubliner B-3, Dominikonų 6, tel. 262 02 39/243 08<br />
07, info@dubliner.lt, www.dubliner.lt. Forget about the<br />
fact that it’s called an Irish pub. It’s really just a restaurant<br />
with a mixed-bag of meals including Irish (of course) as well<br />
as international faves like spag bol, chicken tikka and some<br />
scrummy pies. The good old-fashioned chips are superb,<br />
and a decent brunch will nurture numb noggins - although<br />
it’s well overpriced. Run by a couple of decent chaps who<br />
obviously look after their staff, resulting in pleasant, friendly<br />
and smiley service. The second home for expats in Vilnius.<br />
Regulars even keep their own stash of mad hot mustard in the<br />
kitchen. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. 25Lt.<br />
TJAUSW<br />
Italian<br />
Casa Nova G-4, Švitrigailos 11b, tel. 239 41 99,<br />
picerija@nvc.lt, www.casanova.lt. A lively and stylish<br />
trattoria popular for business lunches. Mix it with people<br />
wearing office fashion and accessory swipe cards, and enjoy<br />
meals that are both better and cheaper than those in the<br />
more central Italian restaurants. There’s pasta (of course)<br />
as well as a good range of pizza, soups, fish and meat<br />
dishes. Considering the portions, prices and quality, this<br />
place offers value that is well worth wandering a little way out<br />
of town for. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 20Lt.<br />
PTALSW<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
1
2<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Da Antonio I B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. 262 01 09, office@<br />
antonio.lt, www.antonio.lt. Peering through the window you<br />
get the impression that this could be an intimate little dining haven<br />
where you’ll be able to enjoy attentive service and the Armani<br />
of foods. But it’s all a bit more Levis. The wood-fired pizza oven<br />
is a treat and the home-made pasta, meat and seafood dishes<br />
tend to be filling and pleasing. But it’s not a cheap place and even<br />
if you really enjoy your meal the high prices and paper napkins<br />
may wipe the smile off your face. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PJASW<br />
Da Antonio Trattoria C-3, Pilies 20, tel. 261 83 41,<br />
office@antonio.lt, www.antonio.lt. This really is nice. It<br />
treads the line between classy and casual with the sort of<br />
schmoozing style that only an Italian could manage. And<br />
then steals your wallet. The food is moderately good, the<br />
atmosphere is certainly pleasant and the staff are friendly and<br />
refreshingly competent - but it’s just not worth the extortionate<br />
prices they charge.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun<br />
11:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. PJAS<br />
Pomodoro Lounge G-3, A.Goštauto 40C, tel. 249 69<br />
28, fax 27 41 164, info@pomodoro.lt. Located in Vilnius’s<br />
shiny business appendage (‘mini Wall St.’ to some of the<br />
locals), and a great place to watch people ‘do lunch’ and<br />
dangle their ties in their soup. The interior is slick and warm:<br />
smeared with style but also very open an airy. A bit out of town<br />
but a good option if you happen to find yourself in a suit and<br />
in the bizstrict. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Mon 08:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PAS<br />
San Marco C-4/5, Subačiaus 2, tel. 264 64 18, sanmarko@ramadavilnius.lt.<br />
This was once a great spot to get<br />
a simple dish prepared to perfection. Now, however, they’ve<br />
removed the more standard fare from the menu and all that<br />
remains is overpriced nonsense that they struggle to prepare well.<br />
We tried the lamb and found it to be overcooked, undersized, and<br />
just not worth the rip-off price (56Lt) they charged for it. They also<br />
seem to have forgotten about basic decency, didn’t bother to ask<br />
us how our meal was, and thought nothing of traipsing through the<br />
dining room with a bag full of dirty laundry. Deeply disappointing.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. PJAISW<br />
NEw<br />
Sofi L B-2, L.Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 3, tel. 210 74 66. It<br />
has that slick-austere style that its namesake, Sophia Loren,<br />
exuded. It has prices that she would struggle to afford. It has<br />
confusing spelling errors in the menu. (‘Rise with artichokes.’<br />
But I don’t sleep with them. ‘Speak ham.’ Okay: “breaker<br />
breaker, 10-4, over-and-out.”) But what really matters is<br />
that the food is a breakthrough – inventive, creative and<br />
unexpected. We had a chicken pie floating in boletus soup<br />
and a sea bass in nettle sauce, and both gently exploded in<br />
a triumph of texture and taste. We’re saving up so we can<br />
go back and try some more dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri-Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PJASW<br />
Sorrento A-4, Pylimo 21, tel. 264 47 37, fax 264 47<br />
35, sorrento@sorenta.lt, www.sorrentorestoranas.lt. We’ve<br />
noted in the past that food here is generally pretty good. But<br />
recently, things have been going a bit random. Of late we’ve had<br />
both wonderful and generously sized appetizers and mean-spirited,<br />
mediocre main dishes. Pizza from the wood-fired oven are<br />
probably pretty safe, but otherwise it can be a bit of a gamble.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 30Lt.PJAESW<br />
St. Valentino B-3, Vilniaus 47/18, tel. 231 41 98, info@<br />
pomodoro.lt. A treat for your eyes and your bottom as the<br />
place is gracefully decorated with faux fresoes and has some<br />
of the plushest chairs in town. The food is fair, the service<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
is acceptable, but neither are on par with the prices. They<br />
also have that cheeky habit of charging extra for things like<br />
vegetables that should be included in the price of the main. A<br />
great place if someone else is paying, but you’ll leave feeling<br />
like you’ve just been had by a sly fox in a nice frock. QOpen<br />
07:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. TJASW<br />
Lithuanian<br />
Čili Kaimas B-4, Vokiečių 8, tel. 231 25 36, www.<br />
cili.lt. A big barn like place decorated with a fish pond, live<br />
chickens, a snake and incomprehensible farming impliments.<br />
Food is a churn-it-out cookie-cutter interpretation of traditional<br />
Lithuanian. Both the quality of meals and standards of service<br />
here have dropped recently, while prices have been creeping<br />
up. But it still can be hard to get a seat at tea time. Note<br />
that the Gedimino location has a flock of Little Red Riding<br />
Skirts to frollic around and chat to the lads who choose to<br />
dine there on weekend evenings. Also at Gedimino 14, tel.<br />
212 14 22, and Savanorių 1, tel. 231 04 12, open 10:00-<br />
24:00. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. 18Lt.<br />
PTJAESW<br />
Forto Dvaras C-2, Pilies 16, tel. 261 10 70, pilies@<br />
fortodvaras.lt, www.fortas.eu. Pop into this cutesy cottagethemed<br />
place for the best rendition of traditional Lithuanian<br />
dishes. There’s a wide variety of cepelinai - huge potato dumplings<br />
that are claimed to be traditional Lithuanian food but are<br />
actually about as Lithuanian as lederhosen - as well as some<br />
more authentic treats from the many culinary corners of the<br />
country. There are also fast-foodish dishes like fried chicken<br />
strips and chips for children and Americans.QOpen 11:00<br />
- 24:00. 15Lt. PTJASW<br />
Gabi C-3, Šv. Mykolo 6, tel. 212 36 43, gabi@zebra.lt.<br />
The menu has little symbols forbidding dogs, karate and luggage.<br />
There’s also a note saying that they prohibit photography<br />
but will happily sell you a crappy Polaroid for 10Lt. Clearly they’re<br />
more worried about separating you from your money, random<br />
outbursts of unarmed oriental combat and dogs turning their<br />
nose up at the food than they are about providing good food<br />
or service. But we can’t work out why luggage is forbidden.<br />
(Terrorists attacks?) Basically this is a bizarre but consistently<br />
mediocre restaurant that serves inexcusable swill to gullible<br />
tourists. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 15Lt. JAISW<br />
Joanos Carinovos Smuklė (Belmontas) Belmonto<br />
17, tel. +370 686 146 56, info@belmontas.lt. Yet another<br />
pleasantly primitive local affair that will be appealing to lovers<br />
of Lithuanian food, taxidermy, and sexual stereotypes. The<br />
hall-like barn for blokes and unfussy fillies has animal skins<br />
on the benches and stuffed beasts scattered about peering<br />
at you. On weekends, ladies can dine in the company of<br />
spinning wheels in the upstairs girly bit. Regardless of your<br />
gender it’s worth the 20Lt taxi ride for numerous reasons<br />
including a large open flame grill; the overall quality, value<br />
and authenticity of the food; and the pleasant Belmontas<br />
surroundings. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
15Lt. TAISW<br />
Superstition:<br />
Whistle in restaurants only if<br />
you want to dine with devils.
Lokys C-4, Stiklių 8, tel. 262 90 46, fax 262 52 67,<br />
info@lokys.lt, www.lokys.lt. Tuck your elbows in, duck<br />
your head and crouch down the narrowest staircase in town<br />
for the most atmospheric dining experience in town. There<br />
are plenty of traditional dishes, including plenty of gamey<br />
meats, and some interesting notes in the menu about local<br />
dining traditions. For all that noble authenticity, however, the<br />
meals are tough going. Expect folksy players to pluck up the<br />
atmosphere and blow a bit of spirit into the place on weekend<br />
evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. JAE<br />
Marceliukės Klėtis I-1, Tuskulėnų 35, tel. 272 50<br />
87/272 87 94. The surroundings have been hacked from<br />
trees, the food has been hacked from barn animals and it’s<br />
all a bit coarse in a very appealing kind of way. We highly<br />
recommend this place to anyone who must dine with children,<br />
as there are plenty of distractions to keep the little blighters<br />
happy, amused and, if you wish, in a distant room. There<br />
are also plenty of dishes that will keep them overfull, sleepy<br />
and manageable for a good while after you get home. Fun for<br />
everyone. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
15Lt. TAIESW<br />
Žemaičiai B-4, Vokiečių 24, tel. 261 65 73, zemaiciusmukle@takas.lt,<br />
www.zemaiciai.lt. This is where<br />
hungry Hobbits come to partake in Lithuanian food. It’s an<br />
underground network of curved-roofed tunnels and little<br />
rooms, all neatly decorated and very homely. The menu<br />
boasts traditional potato dishes snuggled between tasty<br />
starters and soups, and hearty meaty dead things. On<br />
weekend evenings, players wander around entertaining (or<br />
annoying) you. It’s not the best value in town, but is still a<br />
good venue for visitors, dwarfs, elves, wizards, etc. You might<br />
even meet Gollum in the yucky toilets.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
30Lt. JAES<br />
Mexican<br />
Meksika G-4, Algirdo 2, tel. 265 01 47. A bright and zesty<br />
box where you can fill up with mildly tasty and (if you’re used<br />
to fast-food style tacos) mildly baffling renditions of Mexican<br />
dishes. The food isn’t as spicy or adventurous as we would<br />
like, probably having been toned down for Litho-gringos, but<br />
it is pleasing, filling and fair value. Service is prompt and<br />
friendly. English is hidden in the back pages of the menu. All<br />
up, a nice spot for something a bit different. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 23:00. 18Lt. PTASW<br />
Middle Eastern<br />
Deniz Kebabai Kavinė A-4, Trakų 5, tel. 260 88 66. A<br />
bog-standard shopfront kebab joint best suited to drunken<br />
ogres in crumpled suits who stumble out of nearby nightclubs<br />
at 04:00 in search of something drippy, meaty and edible. As<br />
classy as a gas station, but serving top-notch tummy fuel.<br />
The chips are superb. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00<br />
- 05:00. PJAS<br />
Pan Asian<br />
Sushibar G9 B-1, Gedimino 9 (downstairs in the shopping<br />
centre), tel. 212 66 93. It’s a sushi cave, with little dishes<br />
of delectable bibs and bobs sliding around the counter waiting to<br />
be grabbed and gobbled. But there’s also a menu with various<br />
lunch-box options, and a good variety of Chinese style meals.<br />
The atmosphere and service are both lovely - we especially like<br />
the English language magazines scattered about. The food isn’t<br />
great, but it’s still a great discovery, tucked-away as it is in the<br />
lower back side of the shopping centre. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 20:00. PJAUSW<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Reindeer’s-eye view<br />
Woo B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. 212 77 40, wooclub@yahoo.<br />
com. Bunker down here to chow down on all manner of Asian<br />
dishes, and a few other ‘exotic’ culinary adventures. There’s<br />
a Filipino soup, Korean stir-fry and somewhat bizarrely, a<br />
Caribbean squid. While the menu certainly looks exciting we’re<br />
sorry to have to say that everything we’ve tried here recently<br />
has been simply insipid, and it’s all a bit of a flavourless flop.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 17:00 - 05:00.<br />
Closed Sun. 20Lt. PJAW<br />
Pizza<br />
Čili Pica A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. 261 90 71, www.cili.lt.<br />
Bright and zippy, fresh and smiley and largely responsible for<br />
meeting Lithuanians’ seemingly insatiable appetite for pizza.<br />
Also at ... well, just about everywhere: Žirmūnų 64, tel. 278<br />
86 28, open 08:00 - 24:00. Mindaugo 11, tel. 213 33 88,<br />
open 08:00 - 24:00. Didžioji 5, tel. 231 24 62, open 08:00<br />
- 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Fabijoniškių 2a, tel. 230<br />
29 99, open 08:00 - 03:00. Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. 238 79<br />
27, open 08:00 - 24:00. Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. 275 28<br />
05, open 08:00 - 24:00. J.Jasinskio 16, tel. 249 60 88, open<br />
08:00 - 24:00. Ateities 91, tel. 279 42 18, open 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
QOpen 07:30 - 06:00. 15Lt. PTJASW<br />
Pizza Jazz A-1, Gedimino 20, tel. 212 08 39, www.pizzajazz.lt.<br />
Skin-deep stylish and one of the few places where<br />
you can get pizza without having to dive into a cheesy hole.<br />
Also there are a few pasta and meat based dishes which are<br />
moderately pleasant but overpriced. Also at Vokiečių 24, tel.<br />
212 36 46. Open 10:00-23:00, Thu 10:00-24:00, Fri 10:00-<br />
02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. PJAS<br />
Pomodoro A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. 269 00 22, info@pomodoro.lt,<br />
www.pomodoro.lt. Ideal for people who are in<br />
suits and in a hurry. Whether you’re in the restaurant itself<br />
or the atrium, the place has an air of brisk bustle about it.<br />
Pizza and pasta dishes look and taste like they have been<br />
whipped up with hasty competence. Also located at P.Lukšio<br />
32, tel. 274 11 20, open 08:00-23:00, Fri 08:00-24:00, Sat<br />
09:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-24:00. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Mon<br />
08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 15Lt.<br />
PTJAUSW<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
estAurAnts<br />
Polynesian<br />
Aloha Ozo 14c, tel. 211 11 16, info@vandensparkas.<br />
lt, www.vandensparkas.lt. Sit among fake plants, fake<br />
flowers, fake sand, fake surfboards and fake bamboo, and try<br />
real Polynesian dishes. Or so they claim. We’re not sure how<br />
authentic the food is here, but what we can say is that a menu<br />
with spicy fish, tiger prawns and chicken in coconut milk is at<br />
least a very refreshing treat here in Vilnius. Fake? Maybe. Fun?<br />
Definitely. Tasty? For sure. A shame that it’s a bit out of town,<br />
but worth it to give your tastebuds a holiday. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PTAUS<br />
Pub Grub<br />
Pilies Menė C-2, Pilies 8, tel. 261 25 52. <strong>In</strong>dustrial-cosy<br />
in the design department and someone’s-mum in the kitchen.<br />
Throngs of students come here, as does the occasional<br />
cake-nibbling granny. The range of food covers all bases,<br />
including some Lithuanian dishes. Tends to be a pretty happening<br />
place so it could be a good spot to say hello to some<br />
new friends while you say goodbye to hunger. Keep it in mind<br />
for early evening drinks, and don’t overlook the room out the<br />
back which can become quite ‘happening’. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 23:30. PJASW<br />
Savas Kampas C-4, Vokiečių 4, tel. 212 32 03, www.<br />
savaskampas.lt. A stalwart that has recovered from a<br />
reputation of being a bit stale and now offers a not unpleasant<br />
environment in which to poke suspiciously at not entirely<br />
inedible food. There’s cheap pizza, pasta and miscellaneous<br />
local slop presented by incompetent kiddies. It’s really very<br />
cheap, very basic and a no-brainer when the ‘where shall we<br />
meet’ question pops up. Service is atrocious. Don’t expect<br />
much, and you won’t be disappointed. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00,<br />
Thu 08:30 - 02:00, Fri 08:30 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. JASW<br />
Senoji Pasaga C-1, Tilto 1 (enter from T.Vrublevskio),<br />
tel. 261 77 79. Decent food at reasonable prices in a<br />
central location. It’s a bit hidden, but that probably exactly<br />
what has saved it from becoming an overpriced tourist trap.<br />
Nothing special, but sometimes that’s just what you want.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 20Lt.<br />
PJAUISW<br />
Šauni Vietelė B-4, Pranciškonų 3/6, tel. 212 41 10,<br />
saunivietele@takas.lt. We have a vague memory of having<br />
ordered a meal here during issue 12, or thereabouts.We’re still<br />
waiting for it.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat<br />
12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 15Lt. JAS<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
The PUB (Prie Universiteto) B-3, Dominikonų 9,<br />
tel./fax 261 83 93, info@pub.lt, www.pub.lt. You can<br />
get two kinds of meals here: cheap and simple canteenstyle<br />
food - the sort of thing you could make for yourself<br />
at home when you’re feeling lazy; and ghastly gastronomic<br />
abortions. Working out which is which is the tough bit,<br />
but if you stick to things like sandwiches and burgers<br />
you should be safe. Sit around and settle in on weekend<br />
evenings when the place stumbles into nightbarn mode.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. 15Lt.<br />
JASW<br />
Žaltvykslė C-2, Pilies 11, tel. 268 71 73/+370 612<br />
918 17. Looks like it was decorated by a mediorce medieval<br />
court jester who, after having his way with the furniture and<br />
stripey wallpaper, escaped into the kitchen to create some<br />
comedy of the culinary kind. So, if your food tastes funny,<br />
you’ll know why. Best just for nibbles and drinking. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. JASW<br />
Quick & Easy<br />
Gusto blyninė C-5, Aušros Vartų 6, tel. 262 00 56,<br />
gusto@gusto.lt, www.gusto.lt. Crêpes, pancakes,<br />
blyninės, flapjacks, flour frisbees … whatever you choose to<br />
call them you can get your fill here. All manner of international<br />
and Lithuanian style pancakes are available here, as are a<br />
good range of soups and other simple meals. The food is<br />
decent, the service is fast, prices are miniscule and the<br />
place is always stuffed with people stuffing their faces. It’s<br />
exactly as the name promises - pancakes with gusto. Highly<br />
recommended for those on a backpacker budget. Also at<br />
Laisvės 77b, tel. 273 61 40. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. 5Lt.<br />
JAS<br />
Ponių Laimė C-3, Stiklių 14/1, tel. 264 95 81. Full of<br />
tarts and fruitcakes. It’s a twee little spot for microwaved<br />
lunches, and an eye-popping array of cakes. A bit old fashioned,<br />
but it’s fast, the food is edible and it’s conveniently<br />
located on one of the loveliest intersections in old town.<br />
A quaintly pleasing experience. A good place to stash any<br />
old ladies that you may happen to have hobbling around.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00<br />
- 18:00. PJS<br />
Quirky Cool<br />
Blusynė C-4, Savičiaus 5, tel. 212 20 12, www.blusyne.<br />
lt. It’s the size of a biscuit and named after the owner’s<br />
dog, Flea. And it’s wonderful. Decoration is delightful, with<br />
sculptured swirls and glowing blobs on the walls, mirrors to<br />
make it look bigger than it is and iron cages to prevent you<br />
from nicking the wine. The small selection of food is not bad<br />
(although pricey), the wine list is comprehensive and it’s<br />
so cramped that someone’s going to end up humping your<br />
leg at the bar. The tucked-in bustle is aided by chatty and<br />
friendly staff, and overall, it’s just very, very cool. A good place<br />
for after-work drinks or a snack at anytime.QOpen 12:00<br />
- 24:00. PJASW<br />
Romanian<br />
Transylvania B-2, Totorių 22, tel./fax 262 23 01, pub@<br />
transylvania.lt, www.transylvania.lt. Subtly rustic, very<br />
cosy, scattered with bits of wood and iron and, thankfully,<br />
completely devoid of vampire clichés. This is an authentic<br />
Romanian pub-cum-restaurant with things like stuffed aubergines<br />
and sour soups mixed into the menu alongside more<br />
basic favourites such as stewed or grilled meats. There are<br />
no Bloody Marys in the menu, but we’re sure they’ll bring you
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°4 - 400 lek<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
TIRANA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Get <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> before you go<br />
The full <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> range is available to purchase online at:<br />
www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy<br />
Shopping fever<br />
Tirana’s first malls<br />
Facade art<br />
Painting the city pink<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
BUCHAREST<br />
N°40 - 8.00 lei<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
April - May 2006<br />
A New Look<br />
We‘ve never looked<br />
better: <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
gets a makeover<br />
Blogging<br />
Bucharest<br />
Our guide to the best<br />
politically incorrect<br />
comment online<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°34 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1641-5264<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°7 - Free copy<br />
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WARSAW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
BELFAST<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Wilanów<br />
Explore the Polish<br />
Versailles<br />
Out of town<br />
Poland‘s top spa town:<br />
Nałęczów<br />
The Great<br />
Outdoors<br />
Cycling, skydiving and<br />
country pursuits<br />
Gastro Tourism<br />
Seafood, whiskey and<br />
St. George’s Market<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°34 - 100 Kč<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°60 - 1.20Ls<br />
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PRAGUE<br />
August - September 2006<br />
RIGA<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Going to the<br />
chapel<br />
Karlštejn’s renovated<br />
jewel<br />
Let’s rock<br />
Visiting the Bohemian<br />
Paradise<br />
Hockey Fever<br />
Everything you need to<br />
know about IIHF World<br />
Championship in Riga<br />
Explore Latvia<br />
Take a day trip to<br />
the seaside towns of<br />
Jūrmala and Liepāja<br />
one if you ask nicely. The combination of good food, fair value<br />
and a jovial atmosphere has ensured success, but they’ve<br />
just added a second floor to accommodate the after-work<br />
crowds. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat<br />
11:00 - 05:00. JASW<br />
Spanish<br />
Barcelona G-2, Linkmenų 5/66-88, tel./fax 233 33<br />
37, tel. +370 639 333 33, restoranas@restoranasbarcelona.lt.<br />
A bit out of the way, but worth it if you have a<br />
hankering for tapas, sangria and - easily the highlight - paella.<br />
While there’s a bit of red and yellow splashed about, there isn’t<br />
a whole lot of Catalan or even Spanish atmosphere. There<br />
are no melting clocks and twisted chimneys and, alas, you’ll<br />
have to rely on your local taxi driver for high-speed gibberish<br />
and a Dali-style moustache. A cab to Barcelona will cost<br />
around 15Lt. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
25Lt. PTAGSW<br />
Thai<br />
Thai Gourmet A-1, A.Vienuolio 4, tel. +370 700 555<br />
99, info@grandcasino.lt, www.grandcasino.lt. Sneak<br />
into this dark forest of shining tables, leaf-backed chairs and<br />
serene little Buddhas to enjoy some fine Thai cuisine. By<br />
Thai standards, the presentation and tastes here are very<br />
tame - not terribly colourful or spicy - but it still has a bit of<br />
zing and is probably spot on for local palates. Food from the<br />
neighbouring Japanese restaurant is also available. Prices are<br />
high and servings are small. Sadly, and is so often the case<br />
in Lithuania, this place is dragged down by a hilarious lack<br />
of decorum and professionalism. When we visited we dined<br />
to the sounds of someone tenderizing a filing cabinet in the<br />
kitchen. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 50Lt. PJAS<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
COLOGNE<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
River tours<br />
Wine and dine on the<br />
Rhine<br />
N°1<br />
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June - July 2006<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°23 - €1.75<br />
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BERLIN<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Talking herring<br />
Museum night<br />
100 museums in one<br />
night<br />
Floating the<br />
boat<br />
Spree river tours<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
HAMBURG<br />
N°1<br />
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June - July 2006<br />
Harbour tours<br />
Down in the docks<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°47 - 35kr<br />
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TALLINN<br />
Touring Narva<br />
Cool sights at the EU‘s<br />
eastern border<br />
IYP gets a new<br />
look<br />
The inside scoop on the<br />
new look inside<br />
Herring have a habit of turning up on many Lithuanian<br />
menus. They’re called silkė in the local lingo. But before<br />
you tuck in you should be aware of a couple of things:<br />
Baltic herring are both smaller and more polluted than<br />
Atlantic herring. Eat them no more than once a week.<br />
And, herring are the only creatures known to communicate<br />
by farting.<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°41 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1508-2334<br />
KRAKÓW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Tarnów<br />
Explore the Pearl of the<br />
Renaissance<br />
Leisure<br />
Getting active in Kraków<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Balti Drambliai B-3, Vilniaus 41, tel. 262 08 75, www.<br />
baltidrambliai.lt. They’ve got a lovely courtyard, occasional<br />
live music, and a different concept of space and time. This may<br />
have something to do with the smell of burning weed wafting<br />
up from the allegedly non-smoking basement, and results in<br />
service being a bit wafty and etherial. But don’t stress - it’s,<br />
like, cool, you know. Meals are competent vegetarian, style<br />
is hippy-dippy, tie-dyed, dreadlocked and probably pierced<br />
somewhere unmentionable. Very laid back and languid, and<br />
therefore perfect for long lazy afternoons. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. JAESW<br />
Sulčius (Juice Bar) B-2, Totorių 15, tel. +370 603<br />
531 02, info@sulcius.lt, www.sulcius.lt. Taller than it is<br />
wide, and therefore suitable for skinny juice-sipping healthy<br />
people. It’s a tad hippyish and alternative, but not so much<br />
that normal people will feel out of place. Not only can you<br />
have juice, tea or coffee, but you can buy hessian capped<br />
jars of honey or jam, scribble your ode in the guest book, or<br />
buy ‘happiness’ vouchers for your friends. Actually, it is a bit<br />
hippy - but still very nice. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. PJS<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
BreAkFAst<br />
On such cold winter days, it’s important to get going in the<br />
morning (or early afternoon) with a good, hearty breakfast. If<br />
you’re staying in a fancy hotel, you can just head downstairs<br />
to the delights of the breakfast buffet.<br />
But hotels have a habit of taking breakfast away before you’re<br />
ready to eat it. They also have a habit of serving scrambled<br />
eggs that look like liposuction leftovers. And, besides, not<br />
everyone who visits Vilnius wants to stay in a hotel. So<br />
what do the rest of us do for a decent breakfast? Here’s<br />
our run-down of the places where you can get a half-decent<br />
breakfast in Vilnius.<br />
Dubliner<br />
Served from 11:00 till 18:00 daily.<br />
The ‘Irish’ breakfast is probably the closest thing you’ll get<br />
to a proper English breakfast here in Vilnius, but it’s rather<br />
expensive compared to other options and may not be large<br />
enough to satisfy a hangover-fuelled breakfast appetite. Or<br />
an American. The price of 21Lt includes toast, real bacon, a<br />
couple of eggs, beans, mushrooms, most of a tomato and<br />
two little sausages. And it’s all jolly tasty. However, in a crime<br />
against the cuppa, tea or coffee are not included in the price.<br />
We like Dubliner for its friendly service, but their prices are<br />
just not fair. If you don’t mind being ripped-off like a gormless<br />
tourist, this is the best breakfast in Vilnius.<br />
Cozy<br />
We only remembered to take a photo of this one after we had<br />
eaten it, so you don’t want to see that photo. Served from<br />
09:00 until 12:00 on weekdays, from 10:00 on weekends.<br />
The so-called English breakfast here isn’t much of an English<br />
breakfast at all. The snags are too thin and suspiciously continental<br />
– like a Frenchman’s moustache. The bacon just sort<br />
of isn’t – it’s something sooty and insipid, but it’s not bacon.<br />
There are no beans, the bread is lumpen and there are two<br />
mushroomy things that look like grandpa’s kneecaps.<br />
Basically, it’s all just a bit wrong. But, it is quite tasty, is<br />
great value at 12Lt including tea or coffee, and comes in<br />
an atmosphere that is stylish, comfortable, and tends to fill<br />
up with nice looking business types at midday. There’s also<br />
a French breakfast (boiled egg, cheese, olives, toast, rude<br />
service) for the same price, and both include tea or coffee.<br />
You can also fill up with pancakes, omelettes, various kinds<br />
of porridge or a nice, healthy fruit salad. The range and prices<br />
make Cozy our choice for a fair-value breakfast. Oh – and<br />
there’s even free WiFi and they have postcards that you can<br />
scribble on and send for free and ... and ... well, it’s just a<br />
lovely way to start the day.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
ŠMC<br />
Served from 11:00 on weekdays, from 12:00 on weekends.<br />
They do an enormous ‘English Breakfast’ until 12:30 for 15Lt<br />
(including tea or coffee), so it’s a bit of a brekkie bargain.<br />
Unfortunately, however, they just haven’t got much of a clue<br />
about what an English breakfast is supposed to be. What<br />
they make and what you want are not even on the same page.<br />
We’re talking different book. Different language. Scrambled<br />
understanding. You get toast without butter, weird thin squirty<br />
sausages (when you poke them with a fork they spit in your<br />
eye), some pieces of smoked cowboy boot leather pretending<br />
to be bacon and a gloopy pile of mushy beans. Oh – and just<br />
in case you happen to have brought a rabbit along, there’s<br />
lettuce. It’s hilariously muddled, but it is certainly generous<br />
and, if you’re prepared to sacrifice quality for the sake of<br />
quantity, unbeatable big value. A+ for effort.<br />
Skonis ir Kvapas<br />
We really like this cosy little café, but can’t really recommend<br />
it for breakfast. Their 10Lt ‘full breakfast’ is a fried egg, two<br />
skinless sausages that look like something deposited by a<br />
dog, and dry toast. (The menu claims that you get butter,<br />
but we didn’t.) There’s also fresh tomato and lettuce. The<br />
atmosphere here is lovely, the range of teas is awesome and<br />
we’d love to pop by for breakfast frequently, but the meal just<br />
isn’t appealing. Such a shame.<br />
Kalvarijų 1<br />
Served weekends only from 12:00<br />
It’s a bit of a hike, but once you get there you can design your<br />
own breakfast. Choose from bits and pieces such as toast,<br />
eggs (this way or that), bacon, beans and so on. There’s also<br />
more standard local offerings such as porridge (barley mush)<br />
and omelettes. Wrap-up warm, however, as the heating in<br />
this place is hopeless.
Café de Paris C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. 261 10 21, info@<br />
cefedeparis.lt, www.cafedeparis.lt. Dogs like to bring their<br />
owners here. It was once only attractive in the same way that<br />
the inside of your nose is attractive to a fly, but now they’ve<br />
spruced it up a bit and you no longer need six legs to fit in.<br />
Most of the furniture is still vile and grubby - a naïve nod to<br />
‘authentique’ Paris, maybe - but it is still a cosy, cruizy and<br />
comfortable place for a sip or a nibble. Grilled sandwiches are<br />
good but crêpes are sometimes crinkly, cold and questionable.<br />
Keep this place in mind for laid-back, lazy and bad-hair<br />
days. Tip generously and, one day, they might be able to afford<br />
a cleaner. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 02:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. JAESW<br />
Čili Kava C-3, Pilies 16, tel. 260 90 28, www.cili.lt.<br />
Get served at the counter and then rattle about with your<br />
cup of coffee on a plastic tray while you look for somewhere<br />
to sit. Quick, cheap and ... well, that’s it, really. Also at Ozo<br />
25 (Akropolis), tel. 238 79 27. Open 10:00-22:00. QOpen<br />
07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 21:00. PJASW<br />
Coffee <strong>In</strong>n A-2, Vilniaus 17, tel. +370 655 777 62,<br />
hello@coffee-inn.lt. Coffee, cakes, sandwiches, wraps, cookies,<br />
muffins and juices - grab ‘em and go. The ideal place to<br />
stock up for an impromptu picnic in the park, at the desk or<br />
on the back seat of the trolleybus. Or, eat-in. It’s clean, comfortable<br />
and charmless. Also at Trakų 7-8, tel.+370 655 777<br />
63. Open 07:00-21:00, Sat 09:00-21:00, Sun 09:00-19:00.<br />
Pilies 10, tel. +370 655 777 64. Gedimino 9. QOpen 07:00<br />
- 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PJSW<br />
Double Coffee A-1, Gedimino 26, tel. +370 656 771<br />
65, info@doublecoffee.lt, www.doublecoffee.lt. Double<br />
Coffee is to the Baltic States what Starbucks is to everywhere<br />
else. But without paper cups and with better coffee, tea,<br />
good (albeit overpriced) meals and all manner of alcoholic<br />
beverages. It’s hardly a cultural highlight, but it’s clean, smart<br />
and, in the case of the Pilies and Gedimino 26 locations,<br />
open all the time. Can be delightfully strange at 03:00 in the<br />
morning. Also at Pilies 34, tel. +370 652 376 34; Gedimino 5,<br />
tel. +370 656 778 61, open 07:00-24:00, Sat 09:00-24:00,<br />
Sun 09:00-22:00; Gedimino 50, tel. +370 655 478 73, open<br />
07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00-24:00, Sun 09:00-22:00. Q 24<br />
hrs. PJASW<br />
Kalvarijų 1 H-3, Kalvarijų 1, tel. +370 671 786 76/+370<br />
671 787 62, info@kalvariju1.lt. Looks like Liza Minnelli has<br />
bought a weird old castle in Lithuania and turned it into a café.<br />
There’s a black-and-red suave and sexy style to the place, a<br />
piano, a record player that plays real records made out of vinyl<br />
(remember those?) and a bookcase full of old Russian books<br />
left on the premises by the former owner. There’s lovely tea<br />
and coffee, and treats to eat. There’s one of those fridges with<br />
a glass door, but instead of being filled with fizzy drinks, it’s full<br />
of wine. It’s all a bit loopy, rather groovy, and well worth the trip<br />
over the bridge. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. ASW<br />
Kavinė Be Pavadinimo B-2, Totorių 14/Odminių 15,<br />
tel. 262 11 55. We only list this place because it has a cool<br />
name. It’s the ‘Cafe Without a Name’. It’s also the cafe without<br />
fancy decor, high prices, English speaking staff or any other<br />
fancy nonsense. It’s cheap and a great place to stuff yourself<br />
silly with nameless... erm... stuff. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PJAUS<br />
Kristupo Kavinė C-3, Pilies 24, tel. 212 28 94, www.<br />
narutis.com. Walking in here is like being teleported to some<br />
quintessential English tea house in some charming little town<br />
like Tit-Bobble-Wobblington-On-Sea. Except they don’t serve<br />
CAFÉs<br />
scones. There are pink tablecloths, gasping flowers all over<br />
the place and sturdy nondescript wooden furniture. One<br />
imagines a hidden, sturdy matronly woman running the show<br />
- and doing a rather splendid job, thank you very much - while<br />
the staff that serve you are efficient and chipper. The menu<br />
ranges from safe and staid to mildly international. The food<br />
is fair but more filling than fine and, given the generous portions,<br />
not too outrageously priced. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PJASW<br />
Pilies Kepyklėlė C-3, Pilies 19, tel. 260 89 92. It’s all<br />
doilies and Royal Dalton in here, making it the ideal place to<br />
take your Mum, or other tea-sipping cake-scoffing old people.<br />
(Sorry, Mum.) Despite the antique atmosphere, and clientele,<br />
they’ve made it a bit more hip recently by chucking the Carpenters<br />
CDs in favour of some smooth lounge music, which<br />
seems to attract a mixture of families, tourists, romantic couples,<br />
and a stray white cat. Overall: a delightful and discreet<br />
discovery. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. JAS<br />
Post Skriptum B-1, Gedimino 7, tel. 212 52 71. Despite<br />
having a cleavage-width street frontage, this comfy corner<br />
is quite big and often bustling. It’s hard to find a place at<br />
lunchtime when locals swarm in to gobble up cheap yet tasty<br />
meals. The food is a pinch above par for a quick-lunch café<br />
and is pretty good value. PS: It’s sort of tacked on to the end<br />
of the post office, which may explain the silly name. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. JAS<br />
Prie Angelo D-3, Užupio 9, tel. 215 37 90, angelosalia@<br />
one.lt. It’s like a movie star who only looks good with stubble,<br />
a map stained with coffee to make it look ye olde, or<br />
something pretending to have been dug up from Pompeii.<br />
We suspect the place was decorated with not enough paint<br />
applied using a dead badger with a stick up its bottom. And<br />
it’s lovely. Really. Complimented with floral wrought iron fittings,<br />
comfy furniture, lovely homely food (including the ever<br />
popular pizza) and a location from which you can look up an<br />
angel’s skirt, it’s pretty much perfect. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. PTJASW<br />
Skonis ir Kvapas B-3, Trakų 8, tel. 212 28 03. A<br />
captivating cul-de-sac retreat with stylishly scruffy arches,<br />
antique-looking furniture, Arabian-looking rugs and I-don’thave-to-try-to-be-trendy<br />
types trying to figure out how the tea<br />
pots work. Tea, coffee, cake and a chat are the highlights here.<br />
The food is also good, although offered in minuscule portions.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. 15Lt. JAIS<br />
ŠMC (Contemporary Art Centre) C-4, Vokiečių 2,<br />
tel. 261 70 97. The tables are chipped and bashed, the<br />
people are shabby-cool and the service varies depending on<br />
which teenager is working today, what side of the bed they<br />
fell out of, whether their hair is cooperating, biorhythms and<br />
phases of the moon. Food is dirt-cheap but highly random,<br />
ranging from the best value in town to erratic and fizzing<br />
kitchen fallout. One of your personalities will like it.QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 24:00. JAW<br />
Šviežia Kava B-1, Gedimino 9 (inside the shopping centre),<br />
tel. 260 96 53. A few tabled tucked away at the back of<br />
the Vaga bookshop offer a great view of some rooftops, bits<br />
of the cathedral and the castle on the hill. They have a good<br />
range of tea, fresh juices, milk shakes and various coffees.<br />
They even have civet-dung coffee, made from beans that have<br />
passed through the digestive tract of a small cat-like mammal.<br />
It’ll cost you 12Lt for a cup of this poo brew, but normal<br />
coffee is more reasonably priced.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 18:00. PJA<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
nightliFe<br />
Here are two amazing facts: budgies and gerbils can live<br />
without drinking; and, in Lithuania, beer is cheaper than<br />
water. As, presumably, you are not a budgie or a gerbil, and<br />
as you are in Lithuania, this means you’re probably going to<br />
be doing a bit of drinking. And we’re happy to recommend<br />
the places to do it. Our list of bars includes atmospheric<br />
drinking dens where you can sample the superb local beer,<br />
as well as schlick cocktail and wine bars. All of these places<br />
stay open until at least midnight. If you want to dance or just<br />
keep mingling all night long, see the list of Clubs, which tend<br />
to stay open until 05:00 or 06:00.<br />
Nightlife in Vilnius has always been reasonably safe, but<br />
things seem to be changing. We’ve seen a few fights and<br />
ugly incidents lately, all of them involving groups of drunk<br />
Lithuanian men. Of course, standard warnings also apply:<br />
don’t leave your valuables (handbag, mobile phone, partner)<br />
lying around, don’t bumble around in dark alleys and courtyards<br />
and please, don’t pee on the President’s palace. He’s<br />
a nice chap and he’s getting sick of it.<br />
Bars<br />
Absento Fėjos (Absinthe Fairies) C-5, Aušros Vartų<br />
11, tel./fax 261 92 61, tel. +370 699 787 77, info@<br />
absentofejos.lt, www.absentofejos.lt. A despicable ‘face<br />
control’ door policy ensures that you probably won’t get in, so<br />
we suggest you don’t bother going at all. If you’re not a part<br />
of the pretty little clique you will be confronted with a ‘private<br />
party’ lie. Apparently, being human is not good enough for the<br />
vile, loathsome slime who run this place. If you are unlucky<br />
enough to get in, you’ll find some lovely and lively decoration<br />
and, we have to assume, more contemptible, dim-witted arrogance.<br />
Don’t waste your time. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Fri 18:00<br />
- 05:00, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JGBX<br />
All Stars Sports Bar G-2, Konstitucijos 26, tel. 263 66<br />
66/210 31 12, info@forumpalace.lt, www.forumpalace.<br />
lt. With more flat screen televisions than the average episode<br />
of CSI, sports fans are guaranteed great views of nearly every<br />
European sport from every possible angle. It is a real shame<br />
that they can not get the food right though. It does not take<br />
a rocket scientist to manage making great burgers, nachos<br />
and hot wings. Come for the beer and sports but leave the<br />
cooking to the professionals. QOpen Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAL<br />
Artistai PUB C-4, Šv. Kazimiero 3, tel. 212 12 68,<br />
info@artistai.lt, www.artistai.lt. It’s snucked-away in a<br />
picturesque little side street swooned-over by arches. It hides<br />
a gorgeous courtyard and boasts artsy chairs decorated with<br />
the portrait of a moustached gentlemen who would like you to<br />
sit on his face. But, if it all sounds a bit frilly-cuffed and lar-didar,<br />
don’t worry. It’s not at all a place for art snobs. It attracts<br />
a fun-loving rabble who simply enjoy cheap beer and decent<br />
pub grub meals. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Wed 11:00 - 02:00,<br />
Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 24:00. 10-15Lt. JASW<br />
NEw<br />
Bar BOBO B-3, Trakų 15, tel. +370 677 773 35, bobo@<br />
ring.lt A winebar called BOBO. What are we to make of<br />
that? Bourgeois bohemian? Seems to suit the customers. A<br />
double-dose of BO? We’ll sniff it in summer. Or maybe ‘bobo’<br />
is just the most intelligent thing you can say after working<br />
your way through the wine selection? <strong>In</strong> any case this is a<br />
shoebox-sized beatnik hangout with slippery jazz swirling<br />
among shadows and tall, small tables. Ideal for scuse-me<br />
and squeeze-past mingling. It’s certainly unique in Vilnius and<br />
will probably attract a niche crowdlet. There isn’t room for<br />
anything more. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. JASW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Expat<br />
Dubliner B-3, Dominikonų 6, tel. 262 02 39/243<br />
08 07, info@dubliner.lt, www.dubliner.lt. As easy-going<br />
and comfy as your favourite jeans. More a restaurant<br />
than a pub, but still very suitable for a few drinks with<br />
friends. Forget the clichés of sticky carpet and belligerent<br />
barflies that populate your shadowy memories of typical<br />
Irish pubs. This place is much more bright and refined<br />
and also benefits from enthusiastic and smiley service.<br />
Attracts a good mix of expats and locals, with the expat<br />
appeal coming in the form of tasty meals and locals (both<br />
of which tend to be costly). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 02:00. JAUKW<br />
Būsi Trečias B-2, Totorių 18, tel. 231 26 98. The beer<br />
goggles come in lots of different flavours here, which is good<br />
because it attracts a somewhat assorted crowd. Once<br />
you’ve worked your way through the caramel, cherry, coconut,<br />
almond, strawberry and blackcurrant beers (there are more,<br />
but for some reason our notes got sloppy toward the end of<br />
that list) the place, and the people in it, will look fine. Until<br />
then it’s a bit plain, with a barn-like atmosphere, uncomfortable<br />
furniture and horrible toilets. Food is acceptable, and<br />
for easy-going and unfussy types (Australians, for example)<br />
this is a pleasant place to kick-off an evening of more wide<br />
ranging mayhem.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00<br />
- 02:00. PJAW<br />
Briusly (Bruce Lee) B-3, Šv. Ignoto 14, tel. 212 12<br />
15/+370 655 971 11, briusli.baras@gmail.com. Just like<br />
Bruce Lee, this bar exploded onto the scene out of nowhere,<br />
kicked ass and then stood around posing and making a lot of<br />
incomprehensible noise. Then it seemed to get a headache,<br />
have a nap and quietly die. The swishy move-like-water,<br />
talk-like-geyser crowd seem to have evaporated, leaving<br />
this place a bit more cool and quiet. It’s now ideal for normal<br />
people who just want to have a drink or ten, listen and be<br />
heard, and then move like warm Plasticine toward the door.<br />
Unlike its namesake, however, we wouldn’t be surprised if<br />
this one makes a come-back. Could be worth keeping an eye<br />
on.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. JAW<br />
Café de Paris C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. 261 10 21, info@<br />
cafedeparis.lt, www.cafedeparis.lt. This can be one of<br />
the most happening spilling-into-the-street parties in town.<br />
We just can’t work out why. The music achieves occasional<br />
heights of mediocrity, but the trying Lithuanian rap is clearly<br />
designed to send sane people running. The furniture is<br />
shabby-cool, the service isn’t and you’ll spend most of<br />
your time bumping into people whose clothes don’t seem<br />
to fit properly. If you don’t think about it too much you can<br />
have fun, but your evening will probably end with a ‘what the<br />
hell am I doing here?’ moment and a panicked departure.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat<br />
11:00 - 04:00. JAW<br />
Cozy C-3, Dominikonų 10, tel. 261 11 37, fax 278 42 60,<br />
info@cozy.lt, www.cozy.lt. It certainly lives up to its name<br />
because it really is cozy and it really does have that sort of<br />
cool-casual style that makes you spell everything with a ‘z’.<br />
The brick-vault cellar has three rooms for eazy-going lounging<br />
about, and with a great bar and a DJ keeping the vibez<br />
gently kicking along, you can eazily slip into a pleasant and<br />
sort of relax-zing evening. As sexy as designer lingerie and<br />
as comfortable as Y-fronts. Slip in and have a look.QOpen<br />
Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Free<br />
entrance. PJAW
Funky Munky Cocktail Bar A-2, Islandijos 4, tel.<br />
261 45 04, info@funkymunky.lt. This monkey bar opened<br />
recently and seemed to get off to a great start, attracting a<br />
funky kind of 20-something crowd. But, if things don’t go well,<br />
they could always run a hairdressing salon or sell cosmetics<br />
here during the day – the decoration would be spot on. It’s<br />
bright, fresh and stylish, but maybe a bit clinical. If the ‘Drinks<br />
to get drunk’ section of the menu doesn’t work for you, just<br />
whiz around on your swivel chair really really quickly. QOpen<br />
18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 09:00. JAW<br />
Grand Pub A-1, A.Vienuolio 4, tel. +370 700 555 99,<br />
info@grandcasino.lt, www.grandcasino.lt. Ideal for upperclass<br />
louts. A suave-dark interior with plenty of gold picture<br />
frames around flat-screen televisions showing sports. Sit<br />
back in comfy leather, order a pint and watch the game or<br />
the waitresses in little maid costumes with knee-high socks.<br />
Food is mediocre but fine for a quick lunch or beer snacks.<br />
Too classy to be a pub and too tacky to be classy. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PJA<br />
Champagne Bar A-1, A.Vienuolio 4, tel. +370 700 555<br />
99, info@grandcasino.lt, www.grandcasino.lt. A beautifully<br />
designed bar and nightclub where elegance, style, aesthetics,<br />
comfortable furniture and a dash of common sense have all<br />
come together to create a space that will appeal to sensible<br />
sophisticates. Unfortunately, there are no such people in Vilnius,<br />
so it’s always empty. It’s a great shame, because it truly is a<br />
top-notch club.QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,<br />
Sun. 30-50Lt. PJAL<br />
Ibish Lounge C-5, Aušros Vartų 11, tel. 260 90 65,<br />
info@ibishlounge.com, www.ibishlounge.com. What<br />
started out as pretty much just a restaurant that you could<br />
sort of hang around in after your meal has now become a<br />
respectable nightlife option, even if most of its business is<br />
probably spill-over from next door. The lounge-music policy<br />
oozes tunes that are smooth, groovy and as relaxed as a<br />
Barry White yawn. The cool-kitsch furniture and lighting that<br />
lazily cycles through pastel glows is all a bit lost in space, but<br />
the atmosphere is a nice change from the inside of a barn.<br />
They’re competent with cocktails and happy to provide the<br />
sort of easy-going and friendly service that will make you want<br />
to return. QOpen Mon, Thu 12:00 - 03:00, Tue, Wed, Sun<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. JAW<br />
<strong>In</strong> Vino C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. 212 12 10, invino@<br />
invino.lt, www.invino.lt. While it did tend to get a bit elbows-in<br />
crowded in the cooler months, this corker of a place<br />
should benefit from its courtyard and slip into a very fun and<br />
lively summer. With crowds of postcards jammed into door<br />
frames, piles of corks (each with a story to tell, no doubt) and<br />
those glowing cliches of candles dribbling onto wax encrusted<br />
bottles, it’s all rather charming. Expect the sort of pleasantly<br />
refined crowd that think that ‘posh’ is a Spice and are as warm<br />
and affable as the surroundings. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 16:00 - 04:00. JAE<br />
Mano Kavinė C-3, Bokšto 7, tel. 215 30 00, www.<br />
manokavine.lt. It’s all very student-caf out the front, with<br />
easy-going anything going down among cheap angular<br />
furniture, but it’s out the back that it really gets interesting.<br />
Here, you can sit in a corridor so narrow that you get to wipe<br />
your nose on the waitress’s bottom every time she walks<br />
past without even trying. Table football attracts blokes who<br />
otherwise sit about wondering why no one has invented a<br />
motorbike with breasts, and the place has a laidback atmosphere<br />
that attracts everyone except the cleaner. A great and<br />
mildly gritty option that has its own unique gravity. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. JARW<br />
nightliFe<br />
Mojito Naktys C-4, Didžioji 33/2, tel. +370 610 041<br />
31, info@mojitonaktys.lt, www.mojitonaktys.lt. At first<br />
glance it’s just a tunnel with a bar down one side - quite groovy<br />
and ideal for mingling. If things go well here, burrow a little<br />
further and you’ll discover a cluster of little dens scattered<br />
with plush bits that could oh-so-easily seduce you into a long<br />
evening of lounging around sipping expensive (but well made)<br />
cocktails and getting to know someone. They also spin vinyl<br />
from time to time and tempt slinky things to writhe and squirm<br />
about a bit, which is nice. Somehow it feels a bit underground-<br />
Vegas: a happy collision of grit and glitz, a little bit secret,<br />
but well worth dipping into from time to time. QOpen 19:00<br />
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Paparazzi B-2, Totorių 3, tel. 212 01 35, www.paparazzi.lt.<br />
A spacious and modern venue that is popular with<br />
young professionals, and always alive with the motion blur<br />
of comings and goings and fluttering social cliques. This is a<br />
cocktail bar, however, and while the cocktails are occasionally<br />
a bit out of focus they never muck things up enough to spoil<br />
the scene. A great place to zoom to after work, after dinner,<br />
pre-club or (given that they’re open ‘till 06:00 on weekends)<br />
for an all-night time-lapse. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat<br />
16:00 - 06:00. PJA<br />
Pegasus C-3, Didžioji 11, tel. 260 94 30, info@restaurantpegasus.lt,<br />
www.restaurantpegasus.lt. Fancy-pants<br />
restaurant by day, and early-evening, this place slips into<br />
cocktail-bar mode as the desserts are being devoured. It’s<br />
as smooth, slick and... erm, tempting... as Anna Kournikova<br />
in a bath of Kahlua and cream. Expect a small but exclusive<br />
crowd - at least until word gets out. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00. PJAEW<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
0<br />
nightliFe<br />
SkyBar H-2, Konstitucijos 20 (inside the Reval Hotel),<br />
tel. 231 48 23, www.sky-bar.lt. Ever wanted to pilot a flying<br />
eggcup and down a Kamikaze? Well, now you can do exactly<br />
that while also enjoying a wonderful view of Old Town and mixing<br />
with spiffing cabin crew types. The SkyBar offers elevated<br />
standards, stunning views and a nice range of cocktails and<br />
snacks. While it’s not cheap, the prices are not as high as one<br />
might imagine for such a sky high venue. A special smoking<br />
booth is provided so that you don’t have to run up and down<br />
the stairs to end up out of breath. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:30. PAULEXW<br />
Sole Luna C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. 212 09 25, solelunabaras@yahoo.com.<br />
The transformation from a mixed-up bar,<br />
restaurant and café is pretty much complete. Now this place<br />
is totally focused on being a very cool little bar offering drinks<br />
with nuts, popping and fizzing with fun types and decorated<br />
with the sorts of bright colours that you normally have to poke<br />
yourself in the eye to see. Cheap, cheery and just over the<br />
road from the university, so it is not surprisingly rather popular<br />
with students. Actually, Erasmus students come here often<br />
for parties, and you’re welcome to join in. Erasmum offered<br />
advice to students such as: “Do not be afraid of vomiting if<br />
you must”. We we think that's kind of fitting.QOpen 17:00<br />
- 04:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
The PUB B-3, Dominikonų 9, tel./fax 261 83 93, info@<br />
pub.lt, www.pub.lt. For as long as they can manage to keep<br />
the canvas roof peeled back this will be the only indoor(ish)<br />
venue where you can smoke. This fact, combined with half<br />
decent pub grub food, seems to have afforded the place a<br />
resurgence in popularity. They do their best to scare foreigners<br />
away with bad local ‘singers’ lip-synching to a recording of<br />
cats being attacked with a dentists’ drill (we think that’s what<br />
it is) but it doesn’t help. It all ends up with jolly jostling and<br />
dancing and good times for all. Free entry is compensated<br />
for by overpriced beer. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00<br />
- 04:00. JAEW<br />
Transylvania B-2, Totorių 22, tel./fax 262 23 01, pub@<br />
transylvania.lt, www.transylvania.lt. No – it’s not a den full<br />
of blood sucking vamps and fey-faced goths in ripped fishnets,<br />
spiked leather and black eyeliner. Even if they do come, they<br />
won’t stick around because this place is devoid of Dracula<br />
decoration and doom and gloom altogether. It’s too nice for<br />
goths. It’s actually a pleasant Romanian style pub, with a bit<br />
of a rustic feel (timber and iron), a lively bustling atmosphere,<br />
and pleasant food - including some Romanian themed dishes.<br />
Ideal for a drink or a snack, but the staff can get a bit flustered<br />
when dealing with meals and service suffers at busy times.<br />
Don’t plan a flying visit. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00<br />
- 04:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. JAW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Casinos<br />
Casino Tornado H-3, Pamėnkalnio 38, tel. 264 46 16,<br />
fax 260 92 25, info@casinotornado.lt, www.casinotornado.lt.<br />
This place blew in to town out of nowhere. Our last<br />
visit found several empty poker tables and one crowded<br />
Blackjack table on offer. Q Open 24 hrs. PX<br />
City Casino C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. 261 04 11, www.<br />
citycasino.lt. A great location means you will be wagering the<br />
highest minimum bets in town but thankfully in litas and not<br />
euros. But then again with the crowds that frequent the sushi<br />
bar, steak house and Armani shop that share this building,<br />
it is almost a certainty that minimums are not a worry. They<br />
do have some of the best dealers in town and a good range<br />
of slots. Also at Sodų 14 (Panorama hotel), tel. 233 38 70.<br />
Q Open 24 hrs. PJXW<br />
Grand Casino World A-1, A.Vienuolio 4, tel. +370 700<br />
555 99, info@grandcasino.lt, www.grandcasino.lt. A<br />
gleaming complex of entertainment with roulette, blackjack,<br />
poker and various beeping and blinking buttoned bandits. The<br />
second floor boasts a swanky VIP hall with it’s own roulette and<br />
card tables. The entire complex has an ambiance of sophistication<br />
and luxury, and there are plenty of options (two restaurants,<br />
one pub and a wacky cocktail bar) for those who want to take<br />
a break from gambling. Q Open 24hrs. PJX<br />
Nautilus Casino A/B-1, Gedimino 16/10, tel. 249 99<br />
91/+370 699 913 56, fax 249 99 92, info@nautiluscasino.lt.<br />
Liquor in the front, poker in the back, and open all<br />
hours. Or something like that. It’s certainly a great location,<br />
and features card games, roulette and coin gobblers. could<br />
also be handy for anyone who needs to exchange money at<br />
03:00.Q Open 24 hrs. PJX<br />
Nesė B-1, Vilniaus 9, tel. +370 700 555 55, vilnius@<br />
nese.lt, www.pramogubankas.lt. A murky gambling hall<br />
with two rooms of slot machines helping you to part with your<br />
coins. There is nothing truly exceptional happening here. Q<br />
Open 24hrs. PJXW<br />
Olympic Casino H-2, Konstitucijos 20 (Reval Hotel<br />
Lietuva), tel. 211 11 10, www.olympic-casino.com. <strong>In</strong><br />
the basement of the Reval Hotel, the Olympic Casino would<br />
make a regular visitor to Vegas feel right at home. The décor<br />
is authentic gambler-art, shimmering with dreams of gold<br />
and wealth. The split-lever casino floor has a bar on the<br />
top overlooking the gambling areas. Loads of slot machines<br />
and tables to play at, plus currency exchange. The smaller<br />
Olympic casino on Gedimino, situated right next to the Grand<br />
Casino World, is typically packed with hardcore players. It is<br />
sometimes tough to find a spot to play here. Vokiečių location<br />
is purely slotty! Drop your coins into the automated wishing<br />
well, and well... wish for more coins. A fun, albeit, misplaced<br />
stop in Old Town. Also at Gedimino 21/2, tel. 260 82 58.<br />
Vokiečių 12, tel. 262 49 31. Konstitucijos 12, tel. 263 86 51.<br />
Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. 249 17 42. Ukmergės 222, tel. 245<br />
33 22. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Pramogų Bankas A-2, Pamėnkalnio 7/8, tel. +370<br />
700 555 55, vilnius@nese.lt, www.pramogubankas.<br />
lt. A grand and glowing building from the outside and cunning<br />
conglomeration of bling-bling on the inside. There’s six<br />
roulette tables, 11 card tables, a wheel of fortune and all<br />
manner of electronic penny powered pandemonium and other<br />
fiscal fortune fun. It might have the subtlety of an explosion<br />
in a bauble factory, but it’s big, comfortable, professional<br />
and a comprehensive offering for both dabblers and serious<br />
gamblers alike. Q Open 24hrs. PJ
Pacha<br />
As we were going to press, the hot news in town was that<br />
Pacha was about to open in the ‘Gates of Vilnius’ complex<br />
(Gynėjų 14, G-3). The Pacha brand is hotter than Satan’s<br />
daughter’s naughty bits in many parts of the world, and<br />
we welcome them and wish them sizzling success in<br />
Vilnius. Check the Vilnius nightlife section on our website<br />
for a review and details after the opening.<br />
Clubs<br />
Brodvėjus B-4, Mėsinių 4, tel. 210 72 08, fax 278<br />
40 39, pub@brodvejus.lt, www.brodvejus.lt. This place<br />
has long been legendary for always being packed despite<br />
trying drive people away with the worst music in the world.<br />
To really drive the point home, they used to play Hit The<br />
Road, Jack about ten times every night. But it didn’t<br />
work. People stayed anyway. Now they’ve given up trying<br />
to inflict musical brain damage and have found a DJ with a<br />
pre-mixed CD that is bearable and occasionally enjoyable,<br />
ensuring this rip-roaring, butt-wiggling, arm-waving, beerswilling,<br />
meat-market, good-times joint has experienced a<br />
resurgence of unpretentious popularity. Unmissable. By the<br />
way, it’s located on ‘meat street’. Kinda fits.QOpen 12:00<br />
- 05:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 03:00, Tue 12:00 - 04:00. 5-20Lt.<br />
PJAEW<br />
Gravity G-3, J.Jasinskio 16, tel. 269 18 80, fax 269 18<br />
79, info@clubgravity.lt, www.clubgravity.lt. Grab your<br />
lollipops, boys and girls! It’s an old bomb shelter that’s been<br />
clubbed-out and is now full of thrills and pills. It’s one of the<br />
oldest clubs in Vilnius, and looks it. It’s like a 60’s kitchen<br />
with plenty of white bench space and a solidly tricked-up<br />
lighting and sound system. The DJs are among the best in<br />
Lithuania, and big-name international guest DJs also often<br />
feature. The crowd of young, fun-loving doof-doof devotees<br />
is often chemically enhanced, and we’re not just talking abot<br />
Botox. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,<br />
Sun. 30Lt. AX<br />
Helios C-4, Didžioji 28, tel./fax 261 50 40, info@heliosclub.lt,<br />
www.heliosclub.lt. Orange people who spend<br />
more on haircuts than food seem to come here quite often.<br />
They look a bit scary under ultraviolet light - all you get to see<br />
is teeth and bra straps - but normal people also come here<br />
so you’re not going to feel too overrun by anorexic Ooompa<br />
Loompas. The design is game-show good (glowing floor,<br />
razzle-dazzle lighting, lots of electronic bling) and the music<br />
policy is tight, ensuring an interesting and entertaining night<br />
out. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.<br />
25Lt. PJAE<br />
L’amour C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. +370 699 260 46, info@<br />
lamourbar.lt, www.lamourbar.lt. Soaked in purple and pink<br />
light, slick with shiny black surfaces and peppered with gently<br />
glowing floral decorations. So it’s like the set for top-shelf seal<br />
porn. This polished pit of suave socialising certainly has one<br />
of the most stylish and chic interiors in town. There’s a good<br />
sized dance floor, a thumping sound system and plenty of<br />
areas for sitting, schmoozing, yelling and lip-reading. There’s<br />
often decent acts on offer, with appropriate entry fees, but<br />
entrance is free when the stage is empty. QOpen Wed 20:00<br />
- 02:00, Thu 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue, Sun. 25 Lt. PJE<br />
nightliFe<br />
Lithuanian Wild Club A-1, Gedimino 24, tel. 262 44<br />
73, info@wild.lt, www.wild.lt. Always improving and still<br />
full of boobs. It’s normally good fun and unpretentious, and<br />
even if you come on a night when it isn’t going off, you can<br />
watch dancing girls taking almost everything off. <strong>In</strong> case you<br />
want to dance yourself, the music is solid pop and there’s<br />
a decent sized dance floor. If all that’s not enough, sneak<br />
into the naughty room out the back, listed separately under<br />
Adult Entertainment. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. 10-15Lt.<br />
PJA<br />
Milk Bar A-4, Pylimo 21b, milkbaras@gmail.com, www.<br />
myspace.com/milkbaras. It’s a bit Clockwork Orange, but<br />
not at all sinister. This madcap place is groovy in an alternative<br />
kind of way and should be a big hit with arty types who like<br />
lamps made from milk bottles, the rough-white interior, decent<br />
music and a good range of milky cocktails. We’re waiting for<br />
them to install a cow that dispenses drinks from it’s udder,<br />
but it’s early days yet. QOpen 22:30 - 06:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. 10-30Lt. J<br />
Muilo Fabrikas (Soap Factory) I-4, Užupio 40, tel.<br />
+370 600 266 60, info@muilofabrikas.lt, www.muilofabrikas.lt.<br />
A kooky little cluster of boulder-walled caves with a<br />
bit of a theatre tucked away at the back. We got invited along<br />
to see a season opening at 20:00 on a Friday, but the show<br />
didn’t start till 22:00 and the place was empty, so we got<br />
bored and left. Not sure what we missed out on but it looks<br />
like a cabaret style place that would be suitable for mature<br />
crowd who are over pub crawling and club hopping and just<br />
want to settle in for dinner, show and dancing. QOpen 20:00<br />
- 04:00, Thu 20:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue, Wed. 15-100Lt. PAE<br />
Neringa Club H-3, Gedimino 23, tel. 261 40 58, info@<br />
restoranasneringa.lt, www.restoranasneringa.lt. Here’s<br />
what would have happened if the British had colonised Russia.<br />
It’s a dim basement full of dark wood, faded refinement and<br />
timber shades. It’s popular with shady heavies and former<br />
floozies of a moderately mature vintage who think they’re well<br />
to do - a nice alternative to a sea of writhing giggly teens.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00.<br />
Closed Sun. 10Lt. JA<br />
Pabo Latino A-4, Trakų 3/2, tel. 262 10 45, info@<br />
pabolatino.lt, www.pabolatino.lt. Is it worth queueing<br />
up in the snow to get in? Is it worth the expensive entrance<br />
and drinks prices? Is it worth coming at all? Yes, yes and<br />
absaloutely. This is an outstanding nightclub with a carefully<br />
crafted atmosphere in which pretty much everyone<br />
will be seduced (or corrupted, depending on your point of<br />
view) into comfort. It’s like visiting a Colombian drug lord’s<br />
manor but without the guns or moustaches. Latino music<br />
dominates, obviously.QOpen 20:00 - 05:00, Wed 20:00<br />
- 01:00, Thu 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. 15-30Lt.<br />
PJAE<br />
PB Club A-2, Pamėnkalnio 7/8, tel. +370 700 555 55,<br />
www.pramogubankas.lt. A huge, dark space flashing and<br />
pulsing with lasers, lights, big screens and girls undressed to<br />
the nines. Such basic bling also attracts Baltic berks dressed<br />
to the fives in supermarket fashion, but that’s okay as they<br />
just make visiting foreign gentlemen in suits look better. It’s<br />
probably Vilnius’s most technically advanced club, with an<br />
excellent lighting and sound system, and also has a good<br />
layout with plenty of spaces for sitting, standing, dancing<br />
and secret snogging. QOpen Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. 20Lt. PJE<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
1
2<br />
nightliFe<br />
Prospekto PUB B-2, Gedimino 2, tel. 212 08 32,<br />
kukabara@bnk.lt, www.prospektopub.com. Looks like<br />
octopus juggling. A sea of swirling, sweaty naked limbs writhes<br />
to the rhythm of modern pop and the tide of moral-melting mayhem<br />
doesn’t even abate on Sundays. This is one of two prime<br />
spots in town for full-on action and unpretentious fun every night<br />
of the week. Watch out for cheeky bartender bottle tossers<br />
who are even better at slipping your change into their pockets<br />
than they are at juggling glassware. Despite the mean-spirited<br />
staff, the crowd is great and a great night here is pretty much<br />
guaranteed. Come along to meet a good time that’s been had<br />
by all. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. 15-25Lt. PJAW<br />
Relax A-2, Pamėnkalnio 7/8, tel. +370 700 555 55,<br />
www.pramogubankas.lt. Modern and curvy orange furniture<br />
- and people - make you think you’re in an advertisement<br />
for Vitamin C supplements. It’s all fizzy and smiley and, quite<br />
frankly, a nice change in this timber town. Unfortunately the<br />
staff can’t hear or count and seem to have a habit of ‘misunderstanding’<br />
drinks orders, usually only to their benefit,<br />
which adds a bitter aftertaste to an otherwise sweet place.<br />
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. 25Lt. PJ<br />
Trasa G-3, Gedimino 39, tel. 249 82 58, info@trasa.<br />
lt, www.trasa.lt. Some kind of a teenage party in a basement-garage<br />
kind of space that, quite frankly, we can’t get<br />
into because we’re, like, so old, you know. Besides, we don’t<br />
want to go there because, since smoking has been banned, it<br />
stinks too much of teenage BO. If you’re young and don’t mind<br />
the overpowering scent of unwashed skate rats and bouncing,<br />
ripe teenage girls, descend the stairs and breathe through<br />
your mouth. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Thu 19:00 - 04:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 19:00 - 05:00. 10Lt. PAEG<br />
Villa Latina C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. 261 19 96, info@villalatina.lt,<br />
www.villalatina.lt. A top spot for more mature<br />
cocktail sippers who may be over the nightclub scene, but<br />
would enjoy a classy atmosphere, bottle jugglers who whip<br />
up all sorts of fruity concoctions, and a bit of dancing. There’s<br />
even the adjacent (but, thankfully, quite discrete) Eden Club<br />
option for those who want a bit on the side - see our Adult<br />
Entertainment listing for more on that one. QOpen 21:00<br />
- 06:00. 10-20Lt. PJADW<br />
Woo B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. 212 77 40, wooclub@yahoo.<br />
com. Woo-hoo! It’s the in-spot for the relaxed-fashion, cruizy<br />
crowd - you know, those who are following the trend of pretending<br />
to not follow any trends. DJ Adept (or someone) spins<br />
out pulsing house or garage or kennel music (or something -<br />
whatever it is, it’s not pop). The brushed-up-brick-bunker with<br />
edgy graphics is cool, but even with all those fans the air isn’t.<br />
It can get so hot and stinky in here that it would make Satan’s<br />
armpit look comfortable. Also, the service can be sloppy and<br />
we’ve found that they often run out of beer and basic cocktail<br />
ingredients, so you can’t get a drink at 02:30 in the morning.<br />
Still, it’s one of the most popular spots in town for the young<br />
and groovy crowd.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00,<br />
Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. 10-30Lt. PJKW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Gay & Lesbian<br />
Men’s Factory G-4, Ševčenkos 16, tel. +370 699 850<br />
09, info@gayclub.lt, www.gayclub.lt. We’ll do things assabout<br />
in this review and start with the conclusion: It’s great,<br />
and you don’t have to be gay to go. There are phallic symbols<br />
popping up everywhere and busboys in sailor costumes prancing<br />
around, but essentially it’s edgy harmless fun going down in<br />
all directions. Music is more thumping techno than pop, suitable<br />
for rhythmic stomping/dancing. The interior is outstanding with<br />
a kind of dark industrial arachnoid theme that defies description<br />
and plenty of small rooms for… oh, look… we’re out of space.<br />
QOpen , Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 07:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. 20-40Lt. P<br />
Adult entertainment<br />
Cleopatra G-3, Gedimino 37, tel. 243 04 84/+370 686<br />
421 66, office@cleopatraclub.lt, www.cleopatraclub.<br />
lt. You know how Egyptians in pictures are always thin and<br />
svelte, somehow glistening, bathed in golden light, and wearing<br />
little skirts? Well, here they don’t bother too much with<br />
the skirts. Fortunately the only dogs you’ll find in here are<br />
the little statues on the side of the stage, and there’s plenty<br />
of Nefertiti on display . So, if you’re feeling a bit bored, or<br />
Bedouin, Cleopatra could offer the diversion you are looking<br />
for. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. 80Lt. PA<br />
Dolls H-2, Konstitucijos 18, tel. 272 84 82. Simply<br />
Doll-icious! This is an absolute fantastic place to indulge in<br />
the truly titillating. Outstanding dancers, some of the best in<br />
town, are willing to wiggle and jiggle their scantily clad flesh<br />
before you, above you and possibly even beneath you for a<br />
price. Catch a free limousine ride to the club from the Old Town<br />
to visit the Barbie of your dreams. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.<br />
Closed Sun. 80Lt. PA<br />
Eden Club H-2, Konstitucijos 12, tel. 275 14 20, edenclub@edenclub.lt,<br />
www.edenclub.lt. Wickedly fun lap<br />
dances and erotic enticement dominate this scene. Men find<br />
some of the friendlier, most conversational girls in town who lay<br />
it all out on the line, after a spin around the not-so-proverbial<br />
pole. Even though they promise the hottest ladies in the city,<br />
these folks will gladly cart you around town to their two other<br />
clubs if you are not completely aroused and you can enter on<br />
the same ticket. With nudity at these prices, they are practically<br />
giving it away. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. 80Lt. PAW<br />
Eden Club Gold G-4, Vytenio 20a, tel. 233 53 84, edenclub@edenclub.lt,<br />
www.edenclub.lt. This virtual garden of<br />
go-go girls is still one of the most enticing and seductive in<br />
town. They have forgone the apple window dressing because,<br />
as we all well know, sex sells a heck of a lot better. Still more<br />
than a few of their eager patrons have longed to take a bite<br />
out what these ladies have to offer. Check out their website<br />
to get a better look at the goods. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.<br />
Closed Sun. 80Lt. PADC<br />
Erotic Café C-4, Rūdninkų 14, tel. 212 13 49, oldtaun@<br />
aiva.lt, www.eroticcafe.lt. If you hunger for something a<br />
little bit daring, your palate will be doused with excitement<br />
at this enticing little venue. Upstairs from the Old Town strip<br />
club, it offers topless waitresses, nude dances and sexually<br />
enhanced plates of food. It just might be the perfect place<br />
to head after clubbing. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.<br />
25Lt. PJAEW<br />
www.inyourpocket.com
Exclusive A-4, Vingrių 25, tel. 261 76 73/+370 686<br />
756 45, viesulas@is.lt, www.exclusiveclub.lt. The expense-account<br />
strip club, featuring women doing their thing in<br />
a snug living room atmosphere and giving you enough contact<br />
to go home broke, frustrated, or most likely both. <strong>In</strong> case you<br />
never manage to glance above the girls’ waists, it’s critical<br />
that you know this classy joint is nestled away in a vaulted<br />
cellar. They have an intriguing menu offering a wide array of<br />
risky business. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. 80Lt. PJA<br />
Lu Lu Show Girls G-2, Goštauto 12, tel. 262 00 29,<br />
lulu@ultragroup.lt, www.lu-lu.lt. After a brief stint in the<br />
Russian club Metelica, one can wander into Lu Lu’s lair for a<br />
pittance (20Lt). It is a devilish romp into a wicked world where<br />
the fulfilment of all your fantasies is just a few Litas away.<br />
Fairly easy to get comfortable here, as you sit on pillows with<br />
all the dangling overhead. Girls here are aggressive about<br />
drink buying and will wander off at the first sign of a bigger<br />
spender, so do not hesitate to buy if you are longing for some<br />
attention. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00, Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. 40Lt. A<br />
Medusa G-4, A.Vivulskio 3, tel. 243 02 01/+370 655<br />
221 50, fax 243 02 02, info@medusaclub.lt, www.<br />
medusaclub.lt. Being in here is like being inside a giant<br />
heart, and the constantly swirling flesh will certainly do pleasantly<br />
playful things to your pulse. It’s all very warm, red, and<br />
intimate. The dancers are skilful, enthusiastic and seem to<br />
be as interested as they are interesting. They apply only the<br />
gentlest of pressure to encourage you to open your wallet,<br />
possibly because they don’t have to - the soapy shower show<br />
will work well enough to whet your appetite for the range of<br />
‘extras’ on the menu and the benefits of tipping generously.<br />
QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. 100Lt. PA<br />
Mirage H-2, Konstitucijos 12, tel. 273 94 66/+370<br />
620 105 38, fax 261 93 66, office@mirageclub.lt, www.<br />
mirageclub.lt. You have to see it to believe it. A spectacle of<br />
flesh beyond compare, and just out of reach, is promised each<br />
night the doors open. Expect to witness the most beautiful<br />
women in the Baltics leaving you to wonder whether they were<br />
real, or just a mirage. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. 80Lt. PA<br />
Old Town Strip Club C-4, Rūdninkų 14, tel. 212 13<br />
49, www.oldtown.lt. Expect a thumbing, throbbing, erotically<br />
charged escapade. These ladies do not mess around when it’s<br />
show time. Well actually they mess around with a lot of toys.<br />
The hardcore Eros on display here is unparalleled in this city,<br />
but the very best part might just be the deliciously innocent<br />
waitresses who somehow manage to keep all their clothes on.<br />
QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. 80Lt. PJAE<br />
Waterworld C-4, Didžioji 21, tel. 261 82 26, info@<br />
waterworld.lt. Beware the tempestuous siren song that<br />
beckons from the watery world below. Ideally situated in the<br />
centre of Old Town, you would be hard-pressed to find sexier<br />
mermaids elsewhere. The tank show overflows with innuendo,<br />
splashing sexual energy to all that are man enough to answer<br />
the call. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. 80Lt. PJA<br />
Wild Girls Show Club A-1, Gedimino 24, tel. 262 44 73,<br />
info@wild.lt, www.wild.lt. Tucked away at the back of the<br />
Lithuanian Wild Club is a modestly sized room with immodest<br />
girls doing immoral things around a spinning pole. There are<br />
plush carpet and plump cushions so you can lounge around<br />
enjoying the show and a hookah (and, yes, we did spell that<br />
correctly). Entrance cost and drink prices are reasonable, at<br />
least in comparison to other adult venues. An ideal entry into<br />
the adult scene for those who may not be frequent visitors.<br />
QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. 30Lt. PJA<br />
Bowling & Billiards<br />
nightliFe<br />
Žirmūnų Boulingas J-2, Žirmūnų 68a, tel. 277 07<br />
60, info@boulingas.lt, www.boulingas.lt. Relatively<br />
cheap (thus the predominance of a local crowd), and a<br />
great night out for all. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Mon 14:00<br />
- 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PA<br />
Apollo Bowling G -1 , Ozo 25 (Akropolis),<br />
tel. 238 77 77, www.apollo.lt. Shopping centre<br />
bowling. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri 10:00 -<br />
03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00.<br />
PA<br />
Barbacan Bowling D-4, Bokšto 19/ Šv. Kazimiero<br />
12, tel. 266 08 40, boulingas@centrokubas.lt,<br />
www.boulingas.barbacan.lt. Tiny, central and pricey.<br />
There’s also a pool table. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. J<br />
Cosmic Bowling G-4, Vytenio 6/23, tel. 233<br />
99 09, info@bowling.lt, www.bowling.lt. Wonky<br />
lanes and pins on strings - like bowling at tampons.<br />
But cheap. Better lanes and equipment upstairs, where<br />
prices are also higher. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat<br />
11:00 - 02:00. PA<br />
Free Ball (at VCUP) H-2, Konstitucijos 16, tel.<br />
273 05 91, freeball@biliardas.lt. Shopping centre<br />
bowling - strike 2. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00<br />
- 24:00. PA<br />
Karolinos Boulingas Sausio 13-osios 2 (Karolina<br />
Hotel), tel. 278 57 17, ramune@kegliai.lt, www.<br />
kegliai.lt. More bowling adventures a little way out<br />
of the centre but popular all the same. QOpen 14:00<br />
- 02:00, Mon, Tue 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 24:00. A<br />
MV Boulingo Klubas G-3, J.Jasinskio 16, tel.<br />
249 66 00, www.boulingoklubas.lt. Complete with<br />
lithuanian dishes and beer, the six lanes squeezed<br />
next to each other allow for much drunken-bowling.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00.<br />
PA<br />
Po Ogmia I-1, Verkių 29, tel. 272 14 31, www.kegliai.lt.<br />
Bowling, billiards, bar and sauna. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 02:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PALD<br />
Cosmic Bowling<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
whAt to see<br />
Vilnius can and quite rightly does claim to contain the<br />
finest examples of baroque architecture north of Rome,<br />
and this alone is reason enough to visit. But if that isn’t<br />
enough, there are parks and there are rivers and there are<br />
museums that the best cities in Western Europe would<br />
sell their grandmothers for. Other surprises to be found<br />
and counted up its sleeves are a few remaining Soviet<br />
curiosities, a miracle or two, occasional naked monks and<br />
an angel on skates.<br />
Essential Vilnius<br />
Cathedral (Arkikatedra Bazilika) C-2, Katedros 1,<br />
tel. 261 11 27. Once the<br />
site of a pagan monument,<br />
the first Christian church was<br />
thought to have been built<br />
here in 1251 by Grand Duke<br />
Mindaugas. The current construction<br />
dates back as far<br />
as 1419, but has suffered<br />
several fires and has gone<br />
through major reconstructions<br />
and renovations. It was<br />
given a good spruce-up last<br />
year and hence still looks like<br />
a freshly scrubbed alter boy.<br />
Much of the current structure was erected between 1769<br />
and 1820 by the architect L.Gucevičius in the French-classicist<br />
style. The Cathedral was closed by the pesky Soviets<br />
in 1950 and used as a picture gallery. It was returned to<br />
the Catholic church in 1990. Highlights include its eleven<br />
chapels, in particular the High Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir,<br />
the patron saint of Lithuania. Built in 1636 to house the<br />
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TIRANA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
sarcophagus of the saint it is one of the national treasures<br />
of the country. The freestanding bell tower was donated six<br />
new bells in 2002, ‘baptised’ by cardinal Audrys Juozas Bačkis<br />
in a special ceremony before they were hung. Q Mass daily<br />
08:00, 18:00, 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:15, 12:30,<br />
18:00, 19:00. J<br />
Gates of Dawn (Aušros Vartai) C-5, Aušros Vartų<br />
12, tel. 212 35 13. The<br />
16th century Gates of Dawn<br />
once formed par t of the<br />
town fortifications, being<br />
built into the original city<br />
wall. <strong>In</strong> 1671 Carmelites from<br />
neighbouring St. Theresa’s<br />
built a chapel in the gates<br />
to house a holy image of<br />
the Virgin Mary, reputed for<br />
miracle-working powers. The<br />
chapel’s interior was refurbished<br />
in the neo-classical<br />
style in 1829 and should<br />
not be missed. If you’re walking from Old Town, look for a<br />
door on the left and go up the stairs. Q Services 07:30<br />
(Latin), 09:00(Lithuanian), 10:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30<br />
(Lithuanian), Sun 09 (Polish), 09:30 (Lithuanian), 17:30 (Polish),<br />
18:30 (Lithuanian). J<br />
Higher Castle Museum (Aukštutinės Pilies Muziejus)<br />
C-1, Castle Hill, Arsenalo 5, tel. 261 74 53. You no<br />
longer have to climb the cobbled, ankle-twisting hill to reach<br />
the iconic little castle tower - you can defy gravity with the<br />
funicular and save your energy for the 78 steps inside the<br />
tower itself. Dating from the 13th century the castle was<br />
Get <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> before you go<br />
The full <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> range is available to purchase online at:<br />
www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy<br />
Shopping fever<br />
Tirana’s first malls<br />
Facade art<br />
Painting the city pink<br />
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BUCHAREST<br />
N°40 - 8.00 lei<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
April - May 2006<br />
A New Look<br />
We‘ve never looked<br />
better: <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
gets a makeover<br />
Blogging<br />
Bucharest<br />
Our guide to the best<br />
politically incorrect<br />
comment online<br />
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N°34 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
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ISSN 1641-5264<br />
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N°7 - Free copy<br />
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WARSAW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
BELFAST<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Wilanów<br />
Explore the Polish<br />
Versailles<br />
Out of town<br />
Poland‘s top spa town:<br />
Nałęczów<br />
The Great<br />
Outdoors<br />
Cycling, skydiving and<br />
country pursuits<br />
Gastro Tourism<br />
Seafood, whiskey and<br />
St. George’s Market<br />
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PRAGUE<br />
August - September 2006<br />
RIGA<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Going to the<br />
chapel<br />
Karlštejn’s renovated<br />
jewel<br />
Let’s rock<br />
Visiting the Bohemian<br />
Paradise<br />
Hockey Fever<br />
Everything you need to<br />
know about IIHF World<br />
Championship in Riga<br />
Explore Latvia<br />
Take a day trip to<br />
the seaside towns of<br />
Jūrmala and Liepāja<br />
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COLOGNE<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
River tours<br />
Wine and dine on the<br />
Rhine<br />
N°1<br />
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June - July 2006<br />
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BERLIN<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Museum night<br />
100 museums in one<br />
night<br />
Floating the<br />
boat<br />
Spree river tours<br />
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HAMBURG<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
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June - July 2006<br />
Harbour tours<br />
Down in the docks<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
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TALLINN<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Touring Narva<br />
Cool sights at the EU‘s<br />
eastern border<br />
IYP gets a new<br />
look<br />
The inside scoop on the<br />
new look inside<br />
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ISSN 1508-2334<br />
KRAKÓW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Tarnów<br />
Explore the Pearl of the<br />
Renaissance<br />
Leisure<br />
Getting active in Kraków
ebuilt in 1419 by Grand Duke Vytautas following the great<br />
fire of Vilnius. <strong>In</strong> 1610 it<br />
was used as a prison for<br />
the ruling classes, and<br />
during the 1655-1661<br />
Russian occupation the<br />
towers and defensive<br />
walls were almost completely<br />
destroyed, with<br />
serious restoration work<br />
only beginning in 1930.<br />
<strong>In</strong>side the tower itself<br />
find models of the castle<br />
as it was in the 14th<br />
and 18th centuries, plus<br />
other miscellaneous bits<br />
and pieces concerned with the building’s history and knights<br />
in dented armour. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
KGB Museum (Genocido Aukų Muziejus) G-3, Aukų<br />
2a, tel. 249 62 64, muziejus@genocid.lt, www.genocid.<br />
lt/muziejus. There’s more cold, hard reality than some<br />
people can handle in this place. The former prison has been<br />
kept pretty much intact, and simple written explanations<br />
or audio guides allow the grim reality to speak for itself.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the vacuum of quiet left by whispering or silent visitors,<br />
imagination fills the atmosphere. You can explore cells in<br />
which prisoners were packed, a horrific “padded cell”, and<br />
chilling “water torture” cells. Aside from the prison itself, a<br />
glass floored former execution room reveals dug up remains<br />
of victims - truly sobering. Upstairs, in a more traditional and<br />
creative display area, exhibitions cover Soviet occupation,<br />
deportations, and the Partisans who fled to the forests and<br />
fought for Lithuanian independence. There’s even the sanity-baffling<br />
‘eavesdropping room’. <strong>In</strong>novative presentations<br />
and explanations tell stories that make you shake your head<br />
slowly in disbelief. Outside the building, the names of victims<br />
have been carved into the stone walls. It’s not fun. It’s not<br />
supposed to be. It’s about understanding and respect, and<br />
will certainly leave an impact. Don’t underestimate it, and<br />
don’t miss it. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Mon. (Adults 4Lt, student 2Lt, children 1Lt. Guided<br />
tours 30-40Lt. Photo/video permit 4/10Lt.).<br />
Lower Castle Museum (Žemutinės Pilies Muziejus)<br />
C-2, Katedros 3a. The lower castle is the most<br />
active archaeological site in Lithuania and is what’s left of<br />
the elegant 16th century Royal Palace which was the main<br />
residence of Lithuania’s grand dukes for about 300 years,<br />
before it was destroyed in the 19th century. The talk of the<br />
town at the moment is the recent discovery of 62 silver<br />
coins, found buried two metres deep and dating back to<br />
1387-1400. Some have a picture of Jogaila’s head on them,<br />
the oldest Lithuanian coins discovered to bear the likeness<br />
of a ruler. (Tours only by appointment, tel. 261 40 63).<br />
J<br />
St. Anne’s Church (Šv Onos Bažnyčia) D-3, Maironio<br />
8. A much loved Vilnius landmark, and well deserving of the<br />
plethora of postcards and tourist guides (including this one,<br />
sometimes) that it fronts. While the first mention of a church<br />
in this location dates back to 1394, the current structure<br />
was designed by Benedikt Rejt from 1495-1500 (who also<br />
scribbled the plans for Vladislav Hall in the Prague Castle<br />
complex) and has survived pretty much intact. The beauty<br />
of the church speaks for itself, but one thing worth noting is<br />
that, unlike most churches, it is made with external bricks - 33<br />
different kinds, in fact - and therefore has an almost handmade<br />
intricate charm. Legend has it that upon seeing the delightful<br />
and dainty church, Napoleon wanted to take it back to Paris<br />
whAt to to see<br />
in the palm of his hand. But it didn’t fit and he couldn’t lift it<br />
anyway. The bell tower next to the church was built in 1873.<br />
Q Services: 17:30, Sun 09:00, 11:00. J<br />
Churches<br />
Bernardine Church (Bernardinų Bažnyčia) D-3,<br />
Maironio 8, tel. 260 92 92. Built at the end of 15th century<br />
in the Gothic style, and<br />
rebuilt after the devastating<br />
fires of 1560 and 1564, the<br />
monastery was closed after<br />
the Lithuanian-Polish uprising<br />
of 1863 upon suspicion of<br />
anti-tsarist sentiments. From<br />
1919 Polish officers occupied<br />
it, and during the Soviet era it<br />
housed the Vilnius Art Academy.<br />
The applied arts faculty<br />
allegedly used the organ pipes<br />
in their compositions during<br />
this time. Restoration work<br />
continues, but shouldn’t put visitors off coming to look. Find<br />
it tucked away directly behind St. Anne’s Church. Q Services<br />
Sun 09:00 (English), 10:30, 17:00 (Lithuanian); Mon, Tue,<br />
Thu 07:30 (Lithuanian); Fri 07:30 (Latin); Wed, Sat 18:00<br />
(Lithuanian). J<br />
Evangelical Lutheran Church (Evangelikų<br />
Liuteronų Bažnyčia) B-4,<br />
Vokiečių 20, tel. 212 37<br />
92. A Lutheran community is<br />
said to have existed in Vilnius<br />
since 1553. This little church,<br />
built in 1555 and set in a<br />
courtyard, combines Gothic<br />
and Baroque elements. The<br />
gorgeous rococo altar, built in<br />
1741 by Glaubitz, has at last<br />
been restored to its former<br />
beauty and simply shouldn’t<br />
be missed. Q Services Sun<br />
09:30 (English, Ecumenical Protestant), 11:00 (Lithuanian).<br />
J<br />
Franciscan Church (Pranciškonų) B-4, Trakų 9-1,<br />
tel. 261 42 42. It’s all a bit crumbly but this is one of the<br />
oldest buildings in Vilnius,<br />
dating from the mid 14th<br />
century. A wooden church<br />
and cemetery are believed<br />
to have existed even before<br />
that. The church you see now<br />
is primarily Gothic but picked<br />
up a few baroque elements in<br />
the late 18th century. <strong>In</strong> the<br />
19th century it was knocked<br />
about a bit as it was used<br />
as a granary and an archive.<br />
Now it is mid-restoration and<br />
quite a sight with its wooded<br />
benches, tatty old rugs, patched-up floor and piles of bricks<br />
waitng for something to happen. Oh yes, and a miracle-working<br />
statue of the Virgin Mary overlooking it all. The little yellow<br />
building in what used to be the graveyard at the corner of<br />
Trakų and Pranciškonų (it looks like a nice place for dogs or<br />
midgets to get married) was a mini mausoleum and chapel<br />
erected by, and for the family of, Mykolas Suzinas in 1708.<br />
Q Services: 17:30 (Lithuanian), 19:00 (Polish). Sun 10:00<br />
(Lithuanian), 11:30, 13:00 (Polish). J<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
whAt to see<br />
Holy Trinity Church & Basilian Gate (Šv Trejybės<br />
Cerkvė ir Bazilijonų Vartai) C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel.<br />
212 25 78. A real treat, consisting of a church, monastery,<br />
belfry and beautiful rococo gate. The 17.9m-high, 10.8mwide<br />
gate was built in 1761 and designed by the architect<br />
Glaubitz. The church, which needs more than just a coat of<br />
fresh paint, was built in 1514 by order of Duke Ostrogiškis. The<br />
Gothic-style church and monastery belonged to the Uniate<br />
Basilian monks from the 17th to early 19th centuries. Today<br />
the ensemble houses the working monastery and functioning<br />
church of the Uniate Basilian monks. Q Mass Mon - Sat<br />
17:30, Sun 10:00, 13:00 (Ukrainian). J<br />
Church of St. George the Martyr B-1, K.Sirvydo 4.<br />
Build in 1506 for the Carmelite<br />
monks. Originally Gothic but<br />
it got a late Baroque and rococo<br />
spruce-up in 1750-1755.<br />
It faces the building occupied<br />
by the Lithuanian Writers’ Union<br />
and, perhaps ironically, isn’t<br />
used as a church at all, but<br />
rather as a book depositry.<br />
Maybe they’ll have a copy of The<br />
God Delusion on the shelves<br />
somewhere? J<br />
Church of St. Michael and St. Konstantine (Romanov<br />
Church) H-4, J.Basanavičiaus 27. You simply<br />
can’t miss this church. Its huge onion domes are painted a<br />
terrible shade of green, and no one can explain why. Was the<br />
paint a donation? The church was built in 1913 to celebrate<br />
the 300th anniversary of the Romanov Dynasty.<br />
Church of the Apparition of the Holy Mother of<br />
God (Znamenskaya) G-3, Vytauto 21/A.Mickevičiaus<br />
1, next to Žvėrynas bridge, tel. 275 13 75. Built in 1903<br />
with beautiful Byzantine cupolas, this is one of the cosiest<br />
Russian Orthodox churches in Vilnius. Among the numerous<br />
icons hanging on walls and pillars are potted plants making<br />
the place feel alive. Next to the icons are special prayers<br />
for each saint, but as everything in the church is written in<br />
Russian you will need a translator to fathom them out. Note:<br />
Mickevičiaus is an extention of Gedimino Prospektas. If you<br />
stand in the center of the Prospektas, you can see Vilnius<br />
Cathedral to the east and the Russian Orthodox church to<br />
the west. Coincidence? Q Services Sun 09:00.<br />
Church of the Holy Mother of God (Skaisčiausios<br />
Dievo Motinos Cerkvė) D-3, Maironio 14, tel. 215 37<br />
47. This Gothic-style church<br />
has gone through many incarnations<br />
since construction in<br />
the mid-14th century. Three<br />
major fires in 1610, 1716, and<br />
1748 were responsible for<br />
changes to its appearance.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1808 the religious building<br />
became academic when Vilnius<br />
University took it over. The<br />
architect M. Schultz divided<br />
the building into two floors<br />
in 1810 and constructed a<br />
library, classrooms and dissection<br />
rooms for anatomy<br />
classes. <strong>In</strong> 1842 soldiers moved in as the church acted as a<br />
barracks. Over the years it has also been used as an archive,<br />
warehouse and even a smithery. Only in the 1860s did the<br />
building become a church again. Q Services: Sat 09:00,<br />
17:00, Sun 09:00. J<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Church of the Holy Spirit (Šventosios Dvasios<br />
Bažnyčia) B-3, Dominikonų 8, tel. 262 95 95. Built<br />
towards the end of the 14th<br />
century on the site of the first<br />
Gothic church in Vilnius, and<br />
reconstructed several times<br />
during the city’s turbulent<br />
history. <strong>In</strong> 1501 it was given<br />
to Dominican monks who<br />
built a monastery nearby. Its<br />
present appearance dates to<br />
the 18th century, when the<br />
interior was rebuilt after serious fire damage. The church,<br />
which remained open throughout the Soviet period, is the<br />
centre of the Catholic, Polish-speaking community in Vilnius.<br />
Q Services 07:00, 07:30, 15:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00,<br />
10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00 (Polish). J<br />
Kenessa G-3, Liubarto 6. The Karaite are the smallest religious<br />
community in Vilnius,<br />
with just 150 or so remaining<br />
members of a people who<br />
settled in Lithuania in the<br />
14th century after emigrating<br />
from the Ukraine. Their<br />
roots can be traced back<br />
to Mesopotamia (modern<br />
day Iraq), and they adhere to<br />
the Old Testament and the<br />
Decalogue, but don’t accept<br />
the Talmud. During the Soviet<br />
occupation this charming building (Kenessa translates loosely<br />
as temple), built in 1922 in a Moorish style, was closed and<br />
made into a warehouse.<br />
Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva (Pyatnickaya)<br />
C-3, Didžioji 2. Originally constructed in 1345 the church<br />
was renovated in 1865. Peter the Great visited it in 1705<br />
and Alexander Pushkin’s great grandfather, Hannibal, was<br />
supposedly baptised here. The church was reportedly built<br />
on the site of a pagan sanctuary constructed in honour of<br />
Ragutis, the god of beer. J<br />
Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit (Stačiatikių<br />
Šv. Dvasios Cerkvė) C-5, Aušros Vartų 10, tel. 212 77<br />
65. Built in the 17th century on the site of converging trade<br />
routes and recently renovated, the icons and decorations<br />
are now brilliant. See the well-preserved bodies of the martyred<br />
Saints Anthony, Ivan and Eustachius, who are clothed<br />
in white during the Christmas period, black during Lent and<br />
red on all other occasions bar each June 26, when they are<br />
displayed naked. It is reported that on this day at this place<br />
a huge healing presence is felt. Q Services 08:00, 17:00,<br />
Sun 06:45, 10:00, 17:00. J<br />
Reformed Evangelical Church (Evangelikų<br />
Reformatų Bažnyčia) A-3, Pylimo 20, tel. 279 10<br />
52. This Reformist church, built<br />
between 1830 and 1835 on the<br />
site of an earlier wooden building,<br />
is one of the best examples of late<br />
Classical architecture in the country.<br />
The church was closed by the<br />
Soviets in 1953 and transformed<br />
into an exhibition hall. It later<br />
served as a cinema, and if you take<br />
a look inside you’ll see that the<br />
original cinema seats have been<br />
rather charmingly transformed<br />
into pews. Q Services in Lithuanian Sun 11:00. J
St. Casimir’s Church (Šv. Kazimiero Bažnyčia) C-4,<br />
Didžioji 34, tel. 212 17 15. Named after the patron saint of<br />
Lithuania, Prince Casimir Jagiellon,<br />
and founded in 1604<br />
by the Jesuits, St. Casimir’s<br />
is the oldest Baroque church<br />
in Vilnius. It’s long been a<br />
favourite subject of persecution<br />
and abuse, featuring<br />
among its many outrages<br />
Napoleon’s troops use of<br />
the building as a grain store<br />
in 1812, its conversion into<br />
the Orthodox Church of St.<br />
Nicholas by the Russians<br />
some 20 years later (the<br />
Russians then turned it into a cathedral in 1864, the same<br />
year they banned the Lithuanian language in the Latin script)<br />
to its temporary use as a Protestant temple by the occupying<br />
German army (1915-1917). Perhaps most shocking was<br />
the Soviet’s innovative application of the building, turning it<br />
as they did into a museum of atheism. Fear not however, for<br />
it’s once again in the safe hands of its rightful owners, and<br />
exquisitely beautiful both inside and out. Q Services 17:30,<br />
Sun 10:30, 12:00. J<br />
St. Catherine’s Church (Šv. Kotrynos Bažnyčia)<br />
B-3, Vilniaus 30. Art history types reckon this is one of<br />
the finest examples of Vilnius<br />
baroque architecture - and with<br />
its slim twin towers managing<br />
to jostle into so many views of<br />
Old Town like an overzealous<br />
auntie in a holiday snap, it’s<br />
certainly one of the most outstanding.<br />
The church started<br />
as a small brick affair in 1618,<br />
but took on something more<br />
like its present appearance after<br />
reconstruction from 1741-<br />
73 (architect Jan Krzysztof<br />
Glaubitz). It also had to be<br />
renovated after being damaged<br />
in World War II. The interior is breathtaking and intricate<br />
but, like grandpa’s freshly polished war medals, lacks the<br />
time-forged character that a few cracks and dents might offer.<br />
<strong>In</strong>side and out, it’s like a freshly decorated cake. Recently it<br />
has become a popular venue for various concerts, performances<br />
and even a fashion parade. Heavens above! J<br />
St. Michael’s Church (Šv. Mykolo Bažnyčia) D-3,<br />
A.Volano 13/Šv. Mykolo 9, tel. 261 64 09. Built between<br />
1594 and 1627 in the style of<br />
the Lublin Renaissance, St.<br />
Michael’s was commissioned<br />
as a family mausoleum by Leonas<br />
Sapiega, Chancellor and<br />
Grand Hetman of Lithuania.<br />
The church currently houses<br />
the small Museum of Architecture.<br />
To the right of the altar<br />
is the funerary monument of<br />
Sapiega and his two wives.<br />
Note the extraordinary rosette<br />
ceiling, the finest example of its<br />
kind in the country. Currently<br />
being renovated, and may not<br />
always be open during the<br />
hours shown here. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. J<br />
whAt to see<br />
Sightseeing tours<br />
Astrida G-3, J.Tumo Vaižganto 5, tel. 212 27<br />
90/261 44 59, fax 212 35 06, incoming@astrida.<br />
lt, www.astrida.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Fri 08:30<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center<br />
C-4, Subačiaus 2, tel. 1593/212 02 20, fax 212 21<br />
96, lcc@bts.lt, www.bts.lt. Exciting sigthseeing tours<br />
in Lithuania with professional guides. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
BTI West Express Lietuva A-1, A.Stulginskio<br />
5, tel. 1312/212 25 00, fax 212 53 21, office@<br />
westexpress.lt, www.westexpress.lt. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
J<br />
<strong>In</strong> Via G-4, M.K.Čiurlionio 7/1-1, tel. 231 00 49, fax<br />
231 09 37, tours@invia.lt, www.invia.lt. Sightseeing<br />
tours in Vilnius Old Town Trakai, around Lithuania and<br />
the Baltics(English, German, Russian). QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lithuanian Holidays H-1, Šeimyniškių 1a, tel. 263<br />
60 64, fax 272 68 64, travel@lithuanianholidays.lt,<br />
www.lithuanianholidays.lt. Jewish and other Vilnius<br />
tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Vilnius City Tour C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel./fax 261<br />
55 58, tel. +370 699 540 64, info@vilniuscitytour.<br />
com, www.vilniuscitytour.com. Two and half hour<br />
English-language guided tours start at Arkikatedros<br />
aikštė daily at 10:00, 13:00 and 15:00 and cost 65Lt.<br />
Also bus tours to Trakai daily at 11:00 (89Lt). QOpen<br />
09:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00. J<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
whAt to see<br />
St. Nicolas’ Church (Šv. Mikalojaus Cerkvė) C-4,<br />
Didžioji 12, tel. 261 85 59. This small church is currently<br />
being restored, with scaffolding covering one of its walls, but<br />
remains operational. Originally a Gothic construction it passed<br />
into the hands of Uniates (Greek Catholics), before being rebuilt<br />
after a fire in 1814 in Baroque style. <strong>In</strong> 1865 it was rebuilt,<br />
again, to coply with a Russification program being carried out<br />
at the time. Q Services Thu, Sat 17:00, Sun 09:00. J<br />
St. Nicholas’ Church (Šv. Mikalojaus Bažnyčia)<br />
B-4, Šv.Mikalojaus 4, tel. 262 30 69. The oldest church<br />
in Lithuania, and the oldest still standing Gothic building in<br />
the city, St. Nicholas’ Church was built in 1320 by German<br />
merchants before Lithuania’s conversion to Christianity.<br />
During the Polish occupation of Vilnius (1920-1939) this was<br />
the only church in the city where Lithuanians were allowed<br />
to attend Mass. Q Services 07:30, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun<br />
08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J<br />
Sts. Johns’ Church (Šv. Jonų Bažnyčia) C-3, Šv.<br />
Jono 12, tel. 268 71 55. Construction of this Gothic church<br />
began in 1387 soon after<br />
Lithuania’s conversion to<br />
Christianity. Zygmunt August<br />
gave it to the Jesuits in<br />
1571 but it was transferred<br />
to the University following<br />
the abolition of the Jesuit<br />
Order in 1773, at which time<br />
it boasted no fewer than<br />
22 separate altars. The<br />
present church dates from<br />
the various restoration works carried out after the great<br />
fires of 1737, 1741 and 1748. Q Services Mon-Thu 17:30,<br />
Sun 11:00, 13:00. J<br />
Sts. Peter & Paul’s Church (Šv. Apaštalų Petro ir<br />
Povilo Bažnyčia) J-2, Antakalnio 1, tel. 234 02 29. Sts.<br />
Peter and Paul’s was commissioned in 1668 by Michael Casimir<br />
Pac, Grand Hetman of the Lithuanian armies. His tombstone,<br />
inscribed hic iacet peccator<br />
(here lies the sinner) is embedded<br />
in the wall to the right<br />
of the entrance (Pac died in<br />
1682, before the church was<br />
fully completed). Despite<br />
a rather plain facade, the<br />
Baroque interior is breathtakingly<br />
beautiful. Over 2,000<br />
stuccoed figures crowd the<br />
vaults, representing miscellaneous<br />
mythological,<br />
biblical and battle scenes.<br />
Of particular note is the extraordinary,<br />
huge chandelier made from brass and glass beads<br />
and fashioned in the shape of a ship, made in Latvia in 1905.<br />
Q Services 07:00, 07:30, 18:00, Sun 10:00, 11:30,18:00<br />
(Lithuanian); 17:00, Sun 09:00, 13:00, 17:00 (Polish).<br />
Museums<br />
Amber Museum-Gallery (Gintaro Muziejus-<br />
Galerija) C-3, Šv.Mykolo 8, tel./fax 262 30 92, info@<br />
ambergallery.lt, www.ambergallery.lt. Although not<br />
officially a museum this two-storey ode to amber offers<br />
explanations in English, German and Lithuanian about the<br />
formation, colour, harvesting and processing of Baltic Gold.<br />
Follow amber’s history through a series of ancient rooms in<br />
the cellar. Amber polishing demos available upon request.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Applied Art Museum (Taikomosios Dailės Muziejus)<br />
D-1, Arsenalo 3a, tel. 262 80 80/212 18 13,<br />
http://ldmuziejus.mch.mii.lt. Once upon a time there was<br />
a Royal Palace in Vilnius. Like many a palace it was eventually<br />
leveled and looted throughout several wars. Unlike most<br />
castles, this one is being reconstructed to once again appear<br />
as it old self (see a huge construction site next to Cathedral).<br />
Remnants of the original, however, can be found here in old<br />
arsenal building in this exhibit titled “Artifacts from the Royal<br />
Palace of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania.” The most notable<br />
remaining pieces are tile frames from the ancient palace<br />
stoves and a chess set dating back to the 16th century.<br />
The upper floor religious display is fairly stoic, but has an<br />
impressive collection of stations of the cross. Do not even<br />
think about bringing photo apparatus into this museum.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.<br />
J<br />
Artillery Bastion (Bastėja) D-4, Bokšto 20/18, tel.<br />
261 21 49, www.lnm.lt. Built in the 17th century for defence<br />
against the Swedes and Russians, the bastion is an Italianate<br />
defence system. It decayed dramatically during the 18th century,<br />
and in the 19th century was used as an orphanage, and<br />
later as a rubbish dump, which forced the ceiling to collapse<br />
in 1828. It was also the alleged home of one Vilnius Basilisk,<br />
a creature who would from time to time step outside and turn<br />
people to stone with his gaze, and when the Soviets were<br />
in town they favoured it as a place to store vegetables. The<br />
long, stonewalled stairway leads down to the fortifications,<br />
where you’ll find medieval armour and cannons. The Artillery<br />
Bastion also generates the best echoes in the city. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Kazys Varnelis Museum C-4, Didžioji 26, tel. 279<br />
16 44, k.varnelio.muziejus@lnm.lt, www.lnm.lt. Kazys<br />
Varnelis escaped Lithuania in 1949 and earned moderate<br />
fame and fortune in America by creating the sorts of dizzyingpattern<br />
paintings that inspired wallpaper that people are still<br />
trying to remove from 70s style flats. He is not only an artist,<br />
but an avid art collector, and when he returned to Lithuania in<br />
1998, he brought his immense collection with him, which can<br />
now be seen in this mind boggling museum. It’s impossible<br />
to even suggest the vast range of stuff tucked away in this<br />
nondescript looking building. You have to see it to believe<br />
it. Appointments necessary, and well worthwhile. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Lithuanian Energy Museum H-3, Rinktinės 2, tel. 278<br />
20 85, www.muziejai.lt. Illuminating facts about the power<br />
of energy are found here. Get<br />
a closer look at some tools<br />
that drove Lithuania’s energy<br />
needs since the early 1900s.<br />
The old Vilnius Central Power<br />
plant turned museum houses<br />
turbo generators, steam boilers<br />
and control room designs<br />
that came from places from<br />
St. Petersburg to Switzerland.<br />
Here you can witness the<br />
historical chronology of the<br />
Eastern European energy<br />
evolution all the way up to the scale model of the Ignalina<br />
Nuclear power plant. Far from a shocking experience, most<br />
will get a charge out of it. Call in advance. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lithuanian Railway Museum (Lietuvos Geležinkelių<br />
muziejus) A-6, Mindaugo 15, tel. 269 37 41, muziejus@<br />
litrail.lt, www.litrail.lt. Well tap my wheels and call me
Thomas, this dinky little museum even has a train set. All<br />
aboard for a brief history of the Lithuanian railway system,<br />
complete with photos, diagrams, uniforms, signal lights, old<br />
tickets, stamps, pins, etc. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Sun. J<br />
Mickevičius’ Memorial Apartment-Museum<br />
(Mickevičiaus Memorialinis Butas-Muziejus) D-3,<br />
Bernardinų 11, tel. 279 18<br />
79, www.mb.vu.lt. Located<br />
in the house in which the<br />
romantic poet Mickevičius<br />
lived in 1822, the exhibits in<br />
this museum, which dates<br />
from the 19th century, trace<br />
his life and creative development.<br />
Although writing only in<br />
Polish, Mickevičius authored<br />
Poland’s greatest national<br />
epic, Pan Thaddeus, which<br />
opens, ‘Lithuania! My Fatherland! You are health, only he who<br />
has lost you can know how much you are cherished.’ Such is<br />
the complicated history of this part of the world. To arrange<br />
a visit call +370 680 949 82. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
M. K. Čiurlionis’ House (M. K. Čiurlionio Namai)<br />
C-4, Savičiaus 11, tel. 262 24 51. Although more famous<br />
for his art (some even claim that Polish-speaking Čiurlionis<br />
was the originator of abstract art), Mikalojus Konstantinas<br />
Čiurlionis (1875-1911) also has quite a reputation as a<br />
composer. This is the house in which the great man lived<br />
for a short time, and the grand piano on which he allegedly<br />
wrote some of his most famous pieces can be found inside.<br />
The occasional concert is also held here from time to time.<br />
Entrance is through the side door. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
National Museum (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Muziejus)<br />
C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. 262 94 26, www.lnm.lt. The<br />
museum houses an extensive ethnographic collection with<br />
exhibits illustrating the history of the people of Lithuania<br />
from the 13th century to the present. Sure, the sleigh which<br />
looks like a big elfin slipper will instantly impress, as will the<br />
18th century toilet and the recreated rooms of Lithuanian<br />
village life; but it’s when you pay attention to the details of<br />
the recent additions that this place really impresses. Small<br />
flecks of silver, for instance, are some of the earliest Lithuanian<br />
coins, found in 2002 at the site of the Lower Castle.<br />
Then there are those scraps of fabric, found among remains<br />
of Napoleon’s soldiers recovered in the same year. Vilnius<br />
is still unearthing history, and this is the place to see it.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue.<br />
J<br />
Planetarium (Planetariumas) H-2, Konstitucijos 12a,<br />
tel. 272 41 48, fax 272 41 77, www.astro.lt. A grand<br />
museum for stargazers of every persuasion. Excursions (in<br />
Lithuanian) take place at 14:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri<br />
09:00 - 15:45, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Pushkin Memorial Museum (Puškino Memorialinis<br />
Muziejus) K-4, Subačiaus 124, tel. 260 00 80. Alexander<br />
Pushkin’s son, Grigorij, and his wife, Varvara, lived in this wooden<br />
house on their Markučiai estate from 1899 until their deaths in<br />
1905 and 1935. The museum, founded in 1940 and opened in<br />
1948, displays their furniture as well as a literary exhibit of the<br />
great Russian poet’s works in Lithuania. The extensive grounds<br />
are a popular destination for family picnics during the summer.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.<br />
whAt to see<br />
Radvilos Palace (Radvilos Rūmai) B-2, Vilniaus 22,<br />
tel. 262 09 81, www.ldm.lt. Housed in the former palace of<br />
the noble Radvila family, whose 165 portraits are on display<br />
in one of the halls. Other exhibits include foreign fine art from<br />
the 16th century to the present day. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Signatory’s House (Signatarų Namai) C-3, Pilies 26,<br />
tel. 231 44 42, www.muziejai.lt. Here the Lietuvos Taryba<br />
(Lithuanian Council) declared Lithuania’s independence in<br />
1918. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Television Tower (Televizijos Bokštas) Sausio 13osios<br />
10, tel. 252 53 33, www.lrtc.net. On January 13,<br />
1991 Soviet tanks surrounded the Television Tower in an<br />
assault that killed 13 unarmed civilians. Around the tower are<br />
some beautiful and moving monuments, including eerie black<br />
and white photographs of those killed. You will also find a small<br />
photographic exhibition on the ground floor. On a clear day,<br />
the tower, which is the tallest building in Lithuania (326m) and<br />
taller than the Eiffel Tower (324m), offers a panoramic view of<br />
Vilnius. Entrance to the top is a cheeky 21Lt for adults, 9Lt for<br />
children. Take trolleybus No. 1 from the Trakų stop on Pylimo<br />
(A-4) and get off at Kometa, the 11th stop and walk toward<br />
the big pointy thing. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
Theatre, Music & Film Museum (Lietuvos Teatro,<br />
Muzikos, Kino Muziejus) B-3, Vilniaus 41, tel./fax<br />
262 24 06, ltmkm@takas.lt, http://teatras.mch.mii.lt.<br />
Two floors of changing exhibits taken from a vast archive of<br />
over 250,000 pieces (they also have a library of some 30,000<br />
books), the biggest news is the recent acquisition of a genuine<br />
Čiurlionis in the form of a freshly restored theatrical backdrop.<br />
Charting the history of the three arts in question, find a<br />
fascinating collection of theatrical detritus from costumes to<br />
programmes to some rather startling set design models. The<br />
music section includes some great old harmoniums, Pianolas<br />
and working 19th century musical boxes. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Vilna Gaon Jewish State Museum of Lithuania A-<br />
2, Pylimo 4 (2nd floor), tel. 262 96 66, fax 261 19 46,<br />
jewishmuseum@jmuseum.w3.lt, www.jmuseum.lt. A<br />
permanent exhibition also housing a Jewish library. Tel. 261<br />
31 28. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Fri, Sat. J<br />
Vilnius Picture Gallery (Vilniaus Paveikslų<br />
Galerija) C-3, Didžioji 4, tel./fax 212 08 41, tel. 212<br />
42 58, galerija@ldm.lt, www.ldm.lt. The Chodkevičiai<br />
family’s palace, built from the early 17th to the mid-19th<br />
century, was transformed into a museum in 1994. It houses<br />
a collection of Lithuanian paintings, drawings and sculptures<br />
from the 16th-19th century. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Vilnius University Science Museum (Vilniaus<br />
Universiteto Mokslo Muziejus) C-3, Šv. Jono 12<br />
(Sts. Johns’ Church), tel.<br />
268 71 54. During the period<br />
of Lithuania’s Soviet occupation<br />
this church, dedicated to<br />
two St. Johns, was converted<br />
into a Museum of Scientific<br />
Thought. Although the church<br />
is now primarily a place of worship,<br />
it still houses a collection<br />
of about 50 old books, some of<br />
which date back as far as the<br />
14th century. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
0<br />
whAt to see<br />
Out of town<br />
Dennis Oppenheim<br />
Drinking Structure with Exposed Kidney Pool<br />
Europos Parkas (Open Air Museum near the<br />
Centre of Europe) Off the Verkiai road, 10 km<br />
north of Vilnius, tel./fax 237 70 77, hq@europosparkas.lt,<br />
www.europosparkas.lt. A diverse group<br />
of international artists have come to this 55ha sculpture<br />
park to express their own unique visions of the centre<br />
of Europe, which, according to the French National Geographic<br />
<strong>In</strong>stitute, lays some 14km to the north of the<br />
place. Home to over 90 permanent sculptures by such<br />
global celebrities as Magdalena Abakanowicz, Dennis<br />
Oppenheim and Sol Le-Witt, everything is exhibited<br />
amidst a charming, some would say idyllic area of woodland.<br />
The year 2002 saw the park making it into the Guinness<br />
Book of Records as containing the largest sculpture<br />
in the world made from television sets (about 3,000, and<br />
including as its centrepiece a rapidly decaying concrete<br />
Lenin), the maze-like ‘<strong>In</strong>fo Tree’ by Lithuanian visionary<br />
sculptor and founder of the park Gintaras Karosas. Here<br />
Karosas has found the perfect ‘place’ to construct his<br />
landscape artwork aptly labelled “The Place”. Picture a<br />
pond, some boulders and four giant rusted steel poles in<br />
the midst of a plush green forest and you, basically, get<br />
the picture. The park also recently unveiled the playful<br />
sculpture of Mindaugas Tendziagolskis titled “Mobile<br />
Games”. The piece incorporates art and ancient Lithuanian<br />
games and is meant not to just be viewed, but also<br />
played. See their excellent website for more information.<br />
Getting there by car Take Kalvarijų to the Santariškės<br />
roundabout, turn right towards the Green Lakes (Žalieji<br />
Ežerai) and follow the signs. By bus Follow Kalvarijų north<br />
on trolleybus N°10 to the Žalgirio stop and transfer to a<br />
bus marked Skirgiškės, which will take you to the park<br />
itself, or N°36 to the end of the line. It’s then a further<br />
3km walk to the park. Ask the bus driver which way to<br />
go. Q Open 09:00 to sunset.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Places of interest<br />
Hill of Three Crosses I-3. Legend has it that long ago<br />
seven Franciscan monks were<br />
crucified here. Originally erected<br />
in the 17th century, Stalin had<br />
the crosses removed and buried,<br />
and only in 1989 were they rebuilt<br />
according to the original plans.<br />
The crosses are a great symbol<br />
of both Lithuanian mourning and<br />
hope. An excellent view of Old<br />
Town is also to be found at this spot.<br />
Presidential Palace C-2, S.Daukanto aikštė 3/8, tel.<br />
266 41 54. The first illustrious man to sleep here was the<br />
Bishop for whom the palace was built in the 14th century. On<br />
different occasions during the year 1812 two famous guests,<br />
Tsar Alexander I and Napoleon Bonaparte both laid their<br />
heads down to rest here. During its history it has housed<br />
the Artists’ Palace (during the Soviet occupation) and, for a<br />
while after 1991, the French embassy. Today after a massive<br />
renovation, the late Classical-style building houses the offices<br />
of the President of Lithuania. J<br />
The Centre of Europe Lithuania has the proud and<br />
noble distinction of being the smack-dab centre of Europe...<br />
somewhere. A sizeable monument<br />
(designed by G. Jokūbonis)<br />
topped with golden stars and a<br />
mini-amphitheatre was finalised<br />
in the Centre of Europe. The<br />
French National Geographic<br />
<strong>In</strong>stitute places the centre of<br />
Europe at 54° 51(54)’ North<br />
latitude, 25° 19’ East longitude.<br />
<strong>In</strong> case you do not have a GPS satellite handy, head on your<br />
way to Molėtai and wait for the signs for Europos Centras.<br />
But now it seems that those diligent French geographers are<br />
waffling on their earlier precision and it might happen that the<br />
very centre is not under the column, and indeed not under the<br />
rock, but some 6-7 kilometres closer to Vilnius, on the other<br />
side of the road. So if you do have a GPS and are truly interested<br />
in this kind of stuff, why not be safe and try navigating<br />
to 54 degrees 50 minutes 45 seconds North latitude and 25<br />
degrees 18 minutes 23 seconds East longitude.<br />
Town Hall (Rotušė) C-4, Didžioji 31, tel. 261 80 07, fax<br />
261 06 17, vrotuse@centras.lt, www.vilniausrotuse.lt.<br />
First mentioned in 1503, the Town Hall most likely dates from<br />
the 15th century, while the present Classical structure was<br />
built at the end of the 18th century. <strong>In</strong> 1810 the governor general<br />
ordered that the Town Hall housed a theatre, which gave<br />
performances on and off until 1924. Since then its interior has<br />
been a museum. Until the reestablishment of independence<br />
in 1991, it served as the Lithuanian Art Museum. Today it’s<br />
the Artists’ Palace where you can see gallery art. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Vilnius University (Vilniaus Universitetas) C-2/3,<br />
Universiteto 3, tel. 268 70 01, www.vu.lt. The oldest university<br />
in Eastern Europe encompasses every major architectural<br />
style from the last 400 years. The university buildings are among<br />
the best preserved in Vilnius owing to massive renovations completed<br />
in 1979 in honour of the university’s 400th anniversary.<br />
Founded by Jesuits in 1579, the university was run by the order<br />
for more than 200 years. <strong>In</strong> 1832 the Russians closed it and it<br />
wasn’t reopened again until 1919. There are 12 courtyards in the<br />
university complex. Check out the map at Universiteto 7 to orient<br />
yourself. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun. J
Statues<br />
Barbora Radvilaitė C-4, Vokiečių, opp. Mėsinių.<br />
Barbora Radvilaitė (or Barbara Radziwiłł for our Polish readers)<br />
was briefly the Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of<br />
Lithuania. According to jottings of the time, she was a bit of a<br />
hottie and didn’t look anything like the pile of extraterrestrial<br />
excrement deposited here by sculptor Vladas Vildžiūnas. She<br />
was tall (162cm - quite a height at that time), slim, blonde<br />
and had good teeth and an interest in cosmetics. She was<br />
crowned on December 7, 1550, but died on May 8 the following<br />
year. Some suspect poisoning by her mother-in-law who,<br />
perhaps incidentally, is considered the mother of modern<br />
Polish cuisine. Her body is now in the crypt beneath the<br />
Vilnius Cathedral. J<br />
Dr. Ouch B-4, Corner of Mėsinų and Dysnos. Doctor<br />
Tsemakh Shabad, revered for his acts of charity in the<br />
pre-Holocaust Jewish community, stands in the old ghetto,<br />
labelled in English, some Jewish-looking scrawl and Russian.<br />
He is conveniently located and his posture even<br />
allows for a quick cuddle and photo, so he’s worth visiting<br />
if you’re in the area or are particularly passionate about<br />
Kornei Chukovsky, the children’s author, who based his<br />
character ‘Dr. Ouch’ around Dr. Shabad. The girl on his arm<br />
is presumably representative of the Jewish Community<br />
also commemorated in the statue, but she may just be a<br />
chum. J<br />
Grand Duke Gediminas C-2, Arkikatedros aikštė.<br />
For centuries Vilnius had no monument to honour the city’s<br />
founder, but this was set right in September 1996. He<br />
stands more or less on the same spot where an iron wolf<br />
(strangely represented by V. Kašuba in the statue in stone)<br />
he saw in a dream induced him to found the city in the early<br />
14th century. J<br />
Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius B-2, Cnr. Liejyklos and<br />
L.Stuoka-Gucevičius. Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius was<br />
the pen behind Rutošes (the Town Hall) and the Presidential<br />
Palace. No architour would be complete without a squiz at his<br />
likeness here. Sculptor: Vladas Vildžiūnas, 1984.<br />
Mindaugas C-1, Arsenalo 1, in front of the National<br />
Museum. On July 6, 2003, the holiday of the Crowning of<br />
Mindaugas, a sculpture (by R.Midvikis) and a bridge were<br />
unveiled both bearing the name of Mindaugas. The sculpture<br />
sort of faces the bridge that spans the Neris river, a not<br />
very attractive piece of gridiron but necessary to stem the<br />
ever-growing tide of traffic. The sculpture made of granite is<br />
fairly stylised and is perched on sloping slabs of polished<br />
stone which have become a new playground slide for kids.<br />
So much for respecting the one and only king of Lithuania.<br />
J<br />
Romain Gary H-4, Corner of J.Basanavičiaus and Mindaugo.<br />
This representation of Romain Gary is more craptue<br />
than statue. The only person to ever win the Prix Goncourt<br />
literature prize twice, Gary was born in Vilnius not far from the<br />
out-of-the-way corner where the craptue now stands. If you<br />
are a fan of his literary, cinematographic or political works and<br />
are passing by, then you can find Gary on a windswept perch,<br />
looking rather forlorn as he stares up at the sky.<br />
Three Saints C-2, Vilnius Cathedral. The original statues<br />
were torn down and thrown away by the Soviets in 1950, but<br />
thanks to the excellent work of restorers, working only from<br />
photographs, the imposing figures of Sts. Stanislaus, Helen<br />
and Casimir were rebuilt, and have since resumed their vigil<br />
over the city. J<br />
Wacky Vilnius<br />
whAt to see<br />
Frank Zappa A-3, K.Kalinausko 1. Hot Rats!<br />
Deceased rock and roll pervert, part-time classical<br />
composer and father of Moon Unit, Dweezil and Diva<br />
Muffin has had his head immortalised in brass and stuck<br />
on a stainless steel pole in a lacklustre courtyard just<br />
west of Old Town. Commissioned by a student and created<br />
by septuagenarian realist sculptor Konstantinas<br />
Bogdanas who once churned-out Lenins and other noteworthy<br />
comrades for the bureaucrats in Moscow, Zappa<br />
is notable as being the the first of only two statues of the<br />
man in the world. (Although, he does have two asteroids,<br />
a gene, a jellyfish, a microbe that causes urinary tract<br />
infections and a spider named after him.) J<br />
Stebuklas C-2, Katedros aikštė. One of the ordinary<br />
paving stones, about halfway<br />
between the cathedral and the<br />
bell tower, has been replaced<br />
with a not-so-ordinary paving<br />
stone. It’s the ‘miracle stone’,<br />
and it’s tucked under a piece<br />
of glass that has recently been<br />
replaced so that you can actually<br />
see through it (a miracle<br />
in itself round here). Embedded into the miracle stone, in<br />
coloured letters, is the Lithuanian word for miracle – STE-<br />
BUKLAS. It’s written in a circle with a single S forming both<br />
the start and the end of the word. The stone marks the<br />
point where a couple of million hand-holding Balts joined<br />
together and formed a human chain that spanned the<br />
650km between Vilnius and Tallinn. The tile has become<br />
a symbol of freedom and hope and, supposedly, can make<br />
your dreams come true. Stand on the tile, make a wish,<br />
and turn full-circle clockwise. J<br />
Užupis Angel D-3, Užupio & Malūnų. After a long and<br />
singularly strange career as an oversized egg cup, the tall<br />
pillar in the heart of Vilnius’ breakaway republic Užupis<br />
(where ‘every dog has the right to be a dog’) finally gave birth<br />
to a long awaited angel (sculptor R.Vilčiauskas) on April 1,<br />
2002, the official independence day of the wacky district.<br />
After a long and sometimes tedious unveiling ceremony,<br />
the covers were finally lifted, and in a big burst of billowing<br />
balloons, the surprisingly beautiful figure of an angel was<br />
revealed, playing her trumpet and generally being rather<br />
awesome. On a visit to Vilnius in the summer of 2001, the<br />
Dalai Lama visited what was at the time just an egg, and<br />
wished only that the angel’s horn would sound throughout<br />
the world. It hasn’t yet, but it’s still early days. J<br />
Žaliasis Tiltas H-3. A bridge of one description<br />
or another has stood on the spot of the Žaliasis tiltas<br />
(green bridge) since 1536. The current 103m-long metal<br />
construction dates from 1952, and was originally named<br />
after a Red Army general. The four groups of extraordinary<br />
sculptures (this bridge by the way is the only one in<br />
Lithuania to boast sculptures) at each corner represent<br />
agriculture (3.2m, sculptors B.Bučas and P. Vaivada),<br />
industry and construction (3.2m, sculptors N.Petrulis and<br />
B.Vyšniauskas), peace (4m, sculptor B.Pundzius) and that<br />
old Soviet chestnut, youth (3.2m, sculptors J.Mikėnas and<br />
J. Kėdainis). And why are such blatantly communist constructions<br />
still intact one may be wondering? Well, there<br />
are a few who’d like to see them gone, but the majority of<br />
the local population seem to be rather fond of them, if only<br />
because, as one Vilnius resident put it, they’re funny.<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
1
Centre for Tolerance A-4, Naugarduko 10/2, tel. 231<br />
23 57, jewishmuseum@jmuseum.lt, www.jmuseum.lt.<br />
The Tolerance Centre does a wide range of work: temporary<br />
exhibitions in the arts gallery, cultural events, political<br />
events for the society at large and specialists, including<br />
symposiums, conferences, discussions, seminars, meetings<br />
and lectures as well as an educational programme.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri,<br />
Sat. J<br />
Holocaust Museum (The Green House) H-3,<br />
Pamėnkalnio 12, tel. 262 07 30. Although tiny in comparison<br />
with the Holocaust museums in Jerusalem and<br />
Washington DC, it remains a must for anyone wanting to know<br />
what really happened in Lithuania during WWII. The museum<br />
also contains a good display focusing on the major figures in<br />
Lithuanian Jewish history.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00<br />
- 16:00. Closed Fri, Sat.<br />
Chabad Lubavitch Centre H-4, Šaltinių 12, tel. 215 03<br />
87, fax 215 03 89, krinsky@jewish.lt. This bustling centre,<br />
with synagogue, is engaged in numerous projects aimed at<br />
enlightening those who need enlightening and restoring the<br />
spirit and sensibilities of what was Lithuanian Jewish life and<br />
culture before WWII. They’re also a nice bunch of people.<br />
Not only is this the only place in Vilnius capable of organising<br />
kosher food (provided you call them well in advance) but they<br />
also offer free meals to those in serious need. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Chiune Sugihara G-2 Chiune Sugihara was the Kaunasbased<br />
Japanese consul to Lithuania for the briefest of periods<br />
during 1939 and 1940. Between July 31 and September 1,<br />
1940, he and a Dutch colleague saved some 6,000 Polish<br />
Jews by issuing visas, against the orders of his superiors,<br />
to get them out of the country. Issuing stamps right up<br />
until the moment his train departed for Berlin, Sugihara even<br />
handed his stamp out from the train window to a Jew on<br />
the platform who continued stamping on his behalf. Many<br />
of those he saved later settled in Palestine, and have since<br />
championed his cause. The house where he lived in Kaunas<br />
is now a museum, and a monument has now been raised in<br />
Vilnius on a grassy slope just off Upės, directly southwest of<br />
the Lietuva hotel.<br />
Jewish Community of Lithuania A-2, Pylimo 4, tel.<br />
261 30 03, fax 212 79 15, office@litjews.org, www.<br />
litjews.org. Housed in the same building that housed a<br />
private Hebrew elementary and high school before WWII.<br />
Visitors interested in the latest Jewish activity in Lithuania<br />
can swing inside the community centre’s entrance and buy<br />
the city’s Jewish newspaper, “The Jerusalem of Lithuania” in<br />
Yiddish, English, Russian or Lithuanian. The centre itself provides<br />
a wide range of cultural, social and communal services<br />
and activities to Lithuanian Jewry. The building also houses<br />
youth club and summer camp, Jewish Student Union, Union<br />
of Former Ghetto and Concentration Camp <strong>In</strong>mates, and the<br />
Union of WWII Jewish Veterans. J<br />
Jewish neighbourhood B-4, Žemaitijos street. Get<br />
a tiny glance at how the once great Jewish neighbourhood<br />
looked by walking the narrow, cobble-stoned Žemaitijos street.<br />
Two Yiddish signs remain today. One of them advertises<br />
“Avrom’s Colonial Business II”, a store that likely sold new<br />
spices imported from the colonies. J<br />
Jewish tours Professional guides lead tours in English and<br />
Hebrew: Yulik Gurvitch tel. +370 699 907 09, Ilya Lempertas<br />
tel. +370 687 132 85, Regina Kopelevitch tel. +370 699 054<br />
56, Lina Stašinskaitė tel. +370 682 228 99.<br />
jewish vilnius<br />
Synagogue<br />
Map of the Ghetto B-5, Rūdninkų 18 (on the wall of the<br />
AAA Real Estate building). On the site of the former gate to<br />
the larger of Vilnius’ two Ghettos find a map showing the size<br />
and positioning of the area where the city’s Jewish population<br />
were kept before liquidation commenced. J<br />
Paneriai (Ponar) Agrastų 17. The mass murder site is<br />
a traumatic but necessary part of any Jewish-related visit<br />
to Lithuania. Find a small museum at Agrastų 17 (tel. 260<br />
20 01. Open by prior arrangement during the winter), where<br />
some 100,000 civilians were butchered by the Nazis and their<br />
henchmen. Paneriai is about 8km southwest of Old Town, and<br />
the site is criminally difficult to find due to a serious lack of<br />
signs. Catch a Trakai-bound train and get off at Paneriai, drive<br />
out on Savanorių until you reach the E28 highway, or take a<br />
bus from Žemieji Paneriai at the end of Savanorių.<br />
Synagogue H-4, Pylimo 39, tel. 261 25 23. The synagogue<br />
bears the marks of the Jewish Enlightenment with the<br />
inclusion of a choir section, a feature considered a revolutionary<br />
form of modernisation and/or assimilation at the time it<br />
was built. Q Services 08:30, 19:30.<br />
The Vilna Shul-hoyf (Synagogue Square) B-3. The<br />
yard between Vokiečių and Žydų streets was once a world-famous<br />
courtyard bustling with Jewish life, a place that inspired<br />
countless tributes in writing and visual arts. Prior to WWII this<br />
space was filled with dozens of prayer houses as well as the<br />
Great Synagogue, built several stories underground so that it<br />
would not surpass the height of any churches. The Synagogue<br />
featured armoured doors which allowed the basement to<br />
serve as a hiding place during violent pogoroms and in the<br />
corner closest to Žydų, the home and prayer house of the<br />
legendery Vilna Goan. <strong>In</strong> front of the Goan’s house stands a<br />
rather half-hearted Soviet-era monument to him. J<br />
Vilnius Yiddish <strong>In</strong>stitute C-2/3, Old Campus Vilnius<br />
University (Daukanto Courtyard), tel. 268 71 87, fax 268<br />
71 86, info@judaicvilnius.com, www.judaicvilnius.com.<br />
Provides courses and carries out research in East European<br />
Jewish studies. Recent publications include Lithuanian<br />
Jewish Culture by Dovid Katz, Baltos Lankos, Vilnius 2004.<br />
The VYI organises an intensive summer course in Yiddish<br />
language and literature. J<br />
News:<br />
Just before going to print, a new Jewish Cultural and<br />
<strong>In</strong>formation Centre appeared at Mėsinių 3A/5 (B-4), tel.<br />
261 64 22. It won’t actually open till March or April 2008,<br />
but they may hold some events and will be happy to assist<br />
those interested in Jewish Vilnius until then.<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
getting Around<br />
Public transport<br />
You haven’t really experienced Vilnius as a local until you’ve<br />
ridden public transportation, which is comprised of buses,<br />
minibuses and trolleybuses. Most routes run from 05:00<br />
until about 23:00 or 23:45, with a few going through the<br />
night. Tickets (the same type of ticket is valid for bus and trolleybus)<br />
for them can be purchased at any Lietuvos Spauda<br />
kiosk for 1.10Lt or from the driver for 1.40Lt. A single ticket<br />
is valid for any one journey no matter the distance. See www.<br />
vilniustransport.lt for schedules, routes, maps, etc.<br />
Bus<br />
Buses in Vilnius are an important lesson on the tricky nature<br />
of privatisation. Buses are mostly state-owned. Private buses<br />
tend to be a bit faster (and more dingy), but their 1.10Lt tickets<br />
can only be purchased on-board from the conductor as the<br />
driver will often be busy navigating the streets and searching<br />
out his favourite tune on the cranked-up radio.<br />
Minibus<br />
Like a favoured child younger than any siblings, the Vilnius<br />
minibus is a blessing upon the parents of public transportation<br />
in this city. Minibuses are privately owned but follow<br />
similar routes to those of buses and trolleybuses – look for<br />
destinations on the card in the window. Tickets cost 2Lt or<br />
3Lt depending on the route. They have no official stops so<br />
you must stand in traffic waving your arms in order to hail<br />
them and tell the driver, in any language that works, when<br />
you want to get out. When crowded, hand your payment via<br />
other passengers to the driver.<br />
Trolleybus<br />
For those of you who didn’t get a chance to visit Vilnius during<br />
the Soviet-era the city’s trolleybuses provide a sense<br />
of that historical period’s everyday life. The lumbering pace<br />
which is rarely hampered by weather coupled with the olfactory<br />
onslaught and announcements of stops by a stern but<br />
cheery voice insures a great relief is felt when one reaches<br />
one’s destination.<br />
Taxis<br />
Company # Tel. # Short #<br />
Martono Taksi +370 5 240 00 04 1422<br />
Vilniaus Taksi Plius +370 5 261 61 61 1415<br />
Ekipažas +370 5 239 55 39 1446<br />
Kabrioletas +370 5 213 23 32 1445<br />
Depending on such variables as time of day, type of car,<br />
how you ordered it and your horoscope sign, be prepared<br />
to pay 10Lt (1.5 - 2Lt/km) for a trip in Old Town limits. The<br />
cheapest method is to call in advance.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Trains<br />
Train Station (Geležinkelio Stotis) B-6,<br />
Geležinkelio 16, tel. 233 00 88, fax 262 69 47,<br />
vilniaus.agentura@litrail.lt, www.litrail.lt. Reservation<br />
Bureau Tel. 269 24 66. Open 08:00 - 19:30.<br />
J<br />
Train schedule<br />
From Vilnius To Vilnius<br />
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.<br />
02:03 2 11:44 GOMEL 14:02 1 00:49<br />
20:00 2 05:53 GOMEL 16:58 2 02:54<br />
05:11 06:56 IGNALINA 04:15 06:03<br />
08:22 10:15 IGNALINA 05:24 07:11<br />
12:10 14:03 IGNALINA 08:41 10:23<br />
14:52 16:46 IGNALINA 12:23 14:16<br />
16:48 3 18:39 IGNALINA 15:57 17:51<br />
18:38 20:40 IGNALINA 18:41 20:45<br />
20:35 22:15 IGNALINA 19:52 3 21:28<br />
01:09 2 08:22 KALININGRAD 09:49 1 15:29<br />
03:14 1 10:28 KALININGRAD 11:44 17:28<br />
04:38 12:06 KALININGRAD 14:04 2 19:40<br />
10:33 2 18:14 KALININGRAD 16:30 2 22:20<br />
13:02 1 20:26 KALININGRAD 20:06 1 01:43<br />
05:12 3 06:30 KAUNAS 04:14 3 06:09<br />
05:50 3 07:31 KAUNAS 05:55 3 07:14<br />
06:35 07:47 KAUNAS 06:00 07:42<br />
08:00 09:37 KAUNAS 06:50 3 08:07<br />
09:42 11:01 KAUNAS 08:00 09:44<br />
11:00 12:06 KAUNAS 10:45 12:25<br />
13:48 5 15:05 KAUNAS 12:20 13:56<br />
14:05 15:46 KAUNAS 13:50 14:57<br />
15:10 16:28 KAUNAS 14:55 16:21<br />
16:30 3 17:38 KAUNAS 16:42 18:28<br />
16:35 18:16 KAUNAS 17:40 3 18:50<br />
17:50 3 19:06 KAUNAS 18:40 20:26<br />
18:41 19:57 KAUNAS 19:45 21:17<br />
19:32 21:09 KAUNAS 20:30 3 21:43<br />
20:30 3 22:05 KAUNAS 20:50 5 22:07<br />
06:45 11:36 KLAIPĖDA 06:45 11:43<br />
17:00 21:51 KLAIPĖDA 17:00 21:58<br />
02:02 1 06:29 MINSK 03:18 07:46<br />
06:42 10:40 MINSK 05:12 1 10:13<br />
14:20 6 18:46 MINSK 06:30 6 11:00<br />
17:07 21:40 MINSK 18:16 22:00<br />
17:48 22:16 MINSK 19:45 1 00:49<br />
20:00 2 00:30 MINSK 22:26 2 02:54<br />
22:40 2 02:58 MINSK 23:49 04:18<br />
17:07 09:05 MOSCOW 14:06 04:18<br />
17:48 09:27 MOSCOW 18:20 07:46<br />
22:40 2 15:48 MOSCOW 18:55 1 10:13<br />
15:49 1 11:10 ST PETERSBURG 18:16 2 12:42<br />
18:10 2 08:20 ST PETERSBURG 20:02 1 08:52<br />
06:45 09:24 ŠIAULIAI 08:58 11:43<br />
13:48 5 17:38 ŠIAULIAI 18:15 5 22:05<br />
17:00 19:39 ŠIAULIAI 19:13 21:58<br />
04:31 3 05:08 TRAKAI 05:32 3 06:14<br />
05:35 3 06:12 TRAKAI 06:26 3 07:06<br />
06:17 06:54 TRAKAI 07:12 07:52<br />
07:52 08:29 TRAKAI 08:45 09:25<br />
12:18 12:55 TRAKAI 13:10 13:50<br />
15:32 16:09 TRAKAI 16:57 17:37<br />
17:38 18:15 TRAKAI 18:46 19:26<br />
11:47 20:30 WARSAW CENTR. 07:20 17:49<br />
1 Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun 2 Tue, Thu, Sat, 3 Mon-Fri, 4 Mon-Fri,<br />
Sun, 5 Fri, Sun, 6 Wed, Sat, Sun.<br />
Valid until February 1, 2008.
Buses<br />
Bus Station (Autobusų Stotis) B-6, Sodų 22, tel.<br />
1661, info@toks.lt, www.toks.lt. Booking tel. 1661, (8-<br />
900) 016 61. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00. J<br />
Eurolines B-6, Sodų 22 (Bus Station), tel. 215 13<br />
77/233 66 66, fax 215 13 76, info@eurolines.lt, www.<br />
eurolines.lt. Also at Mindaugo 16, tel. 269 00 00, fax 269<br />
06 90. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Ferries<br />
Krantas Travel A-1, A.Vienuolio 6, tel. 231 33 14, fax<br />
262 91 20, vilnius@vilnius.krantas.lt, www.krantas.lt.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Riga Passenger Terminal Eksporta 3a, Riga, tel.<br />
+371 67 32 62 00.<br />
Tallink Laikmaa 5, Tallinn, Estonia, tel. +372 640 98<br />
08, fax +372 640 98 15, booking@tallink.ee, www.<br />
tallink.ee. Large carferries. Adult single tickets €20 - 45.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational bus schedule<br />
From Vilnius To Vilnius<br />
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.<br />
17:00 18:45 5 AMSTERDAM 1 11:00 13:50<br />
15:00 07:40 1,3,4,6 BERLIN 1,3,4,6 20:00 14:40<br />
17:00 22:45 5 BRUSSELS 1 06:00 13:50<br />
15:00 13:15 6 BREMEN 6 14:00 14:40<br />
15:00 14:15 6 BREMENHAVEN 6 13:00 14:40<br />
15:00 19:05 1,3,4,6 COLOGNE 1,3,5,6 07:25 14:40<br />
06:40 09:55 1 COPENHAGEN 3 17:40 21:20<br />
22:50 09:20 GDANSK* 20:20 09:10<br />
15:00 11:30 6 HAMBURG 6 16:00 14:40<br />
22:00 10:10 KYIV 19:40 07:50<br />
17:00 06:05 3,6 KRAKOW 2,6 21:00 10:50<br />
17:00 06:30 5 LONDON 7 21:00 13:50<br />
06:30 11:20 6 LUXEMBOURG 1 14:15 20:30<br />
17:40 08:10 5 LVOV 7 18:10 10:40<br />
17:00 05:45 3 MILAN 5 21:00 10:50<br />
17:00 06:15 2 MILAN 4 20:30 11:00<br />
05:50 10:00 MINSK 12:30 16:40<br />
09:00 12:50 MINSK 16:00 19:55<br />
12:50 17:00 MINSK 18:10 22:45<br />
15:00 16:00 4,6 MUNICH 1,6 10:20 14:40<br />
06:50 16:15 6 PARIS 1 09:00 20:30<br />
21:00 14:30 4 PESCARA 7 12:00 08:30<br />
16:30 12:15 5 PRAGUE 7 13:30 09:50<br />
07:30 11:50 RIGA 15:00 19:30<br />
10:00 14:30 RIGA 17:00 21:20<br />
13:05 17:25 RIGA 08:00 12:15<br />
16:00 20:15 RIGA 18:45 23:30<br />
18:00 22:30 RIGA 13:15 17:50<br />
21:00 01:25 RIGA 02:00 06:20<br />
17:00 08:00 6 ROME 1 19:00 10:50<br />
15:00 20:00 1,4,6 STUTTGART 1,3,6 08:00 14:40<br />
10:00 19:35 TALLINN 10:00 19:30<br />
21:00 06:30 TALLINN 21:00 06:20<br />
06:40 01:25 4 VIENNA 7 00:10 21:00<br />
17:00 14:45 3,6 VIENNA 2,6 12:15 11:00<br />
21:00 16:30 5 VIENNA 2 10:30 08:30<br />
09:00 18:00 2,4,7 WARSAW 1,3,5 09:30 19:30<br />
21:30 06:05 WARSAW 20:30 07:20<br />
All services operated by TOKS, www.toks.lt. Valid until<br />
February 1, 2008. During Christmas time some changes<br />
are possible.<br />
*- until Dec 15 every two days, from Dec 16 - every day.<br />
Timetable key: Departs Vilnius. Arrives destination. Days of<br />
the week (1=Monday). Departs destination. Arrives Vilnius.<br />
getting Around<br />
Bicycles<br />
Baltic Cycle info@bicycle.lt, www.bicycle.lt. Bicycle<br />
rental through Baltic states and cycling-related events.<br />
Car rental<br />
AAA Autobanga Rent A Car And Limousine Durpių<br />
26, tel. +370 676 349 44/+370 676 666 24, fax 278<br />
41 32, info@autobanga.lt, www.autobanga.lt. New car,<br />
minivan and limousine rental. Drivers are available, airport<br />
pick-up. Prices from €20/day including free kms and full insurance.<br />
Mini-lease (1-36 months) available. Also at Rodūnios<br />
kelias 8-101 (Hotel Skrydis). Open 24 hrs.<br />
A&A Litinterp Rodūnios kelias 2, tel. +370 700 558 55,<br />
fax 216 54 62, rentacar@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.lt.<br />
Car and minibus rental. Chauffeur-drivers from 210Lt/day (car),<br />
plus 0.70Lt/km. Self-drives from 160Lt/day, free mileage.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
A Beautiful Land Of Nevermind D-3, Užupio 23-9, tel.<br />
+370 616 200 07/+370 616 200 02, info@nevermind.lt,<br />
www.nevermind.lt. Everything from little zip-about city cars<br />
to big vans for small crowds.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. J<br />
Add Car Rental Rodūnios kelias 8-9 (Airport), tel./fax<br />
232 90 83, tel. +370 673 992 35, vilnius@addcarrental.<br />
com, www.addcarrental.com. €25, including free mileage<br />
and insurance. Reservations can be made free of charge at<br />
www.addcarrental.com, or at Air Baltic’s ticket office at Vilnius<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Airport.<br />
Aunela G-4, Vytenio 6-110, tel. +370 686 634 44/233<br />
03 18, aunela@takas.lt, www.aunela.lt. Cars, vans, luxury<br />
cars for rent. Wide selection, reasonable prices. Chauffeur<br />
available. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Autobaltic Oslo 5, tel. +370 606 123 45/+370 606<br />
123 44, fax 263 18 18, info@autobaltic.lt, www.autobaltic.lt.<br />
An impressive range of cars from limos to economy<br />
models. They also drive you from one city to another. Available<br />
on weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Local bus schedule<br />
Alytus<br />
06.00, 07.50, 10.20, 10.40, 12.05(7), 15.10(5), 15:30,<br />
15.55.<br />
Kaunas<br />
05.40, 06.20, 06.35, 06.45, 07.00, 07.40, 07.55(6,7),<br />
08.10, 09.00, 09.30, 09.45, 09.55, 10.45, 13.20,<br />
13.45, 14.00, 15.40, 15.50, 17.10, 17.15, 19.20,<br />
22.45.<br />
Klaipėda<br />
06.00, 06.35, 07.20, 08.50, 11.35, 14.50, 22.45.<br />
Lazdijai<br />
06.00, 10.40, 12.05(7), 15.10(5).<br />
Palanga<br />
06.00, 08.50, 14.50, 22.45.<br />
Panevėžys<br />
05.50, 06.10, 06.30, 07.05, 08.25, 11.10, 12.50,<br />
16.30, 17.00.<br />
Šiauliai<br />
06.30, 07.50, 11.10.<br />
Departs Vilnius. Arrives destination. Days of the week<br />
(1=Monday). * until Feb 1, 2008.<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
getting Around<br />
Autobest G-5, Vytenio 50-820, tel. +370 685 703 40,<br />
fax 216 33 63, info@autobest.lt, www.autobest.lt. Car<br />
rental service. Free car delivery anywhere in Vilnius such as<br />
hotel or airport. Best price for best quality! QOpen 08:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Automobilių nuoma.lt , tel. +370 675 993 44/+370<br />
685 626 55, info@automobiliunuoma.lt, www.carrental.<br />
lt. Rental of new, modern and comfortable cars and minibuses.<br />
Prices from 99Lt (€29)/day. English-speaking drivers<br />
available. Online registration. Q 24hrs.<br />
Autorenta Rodūnios Kelias 8-102, tel. +370 687 772<br />
58, fax 233 16 12, info@carrent.lt, www.carrent.lt.<br />
Mid-range car and van rental. Self-drives from 70Lt/day. Free<br />
mileage. Full insurance and all local taxes included. Discounts<br />
for long-term rentals. English-speaking drivers available. Q<br />
Open 24 hrs.<br />
Avis Rodūnios kelias 2(Airport), tel./fax 232 93 16,<br />
apo@avis.lt, www.avis.lt. Klaipėda tel. +370 463 111<br />
11, Kaunas tel. +370 374 544 44. Rental of new cars and<br />
minibuses. With or without driver, full package of insurances.<br />
Full service car leasing and fleet management services.<br />
Also at Laisves 3, tel. 230 68 20/+370 698 448 31, fax<br />
230 68 21, avis@avis.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun<br />
09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Budget Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. 230 67 08 ,<br />
fax 230 67 09, budget@budget.lt, www.budget.lt. High<br />
quality car rental service for competitive prices. One-way<br />
rentals, special weekend deals, chauffeur available. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Carsrent J.Kubiliaus 23, tel. +370 600 236 99/274 78<br />
42, fax 274 78 40, info@carsrent.lt, www.carsrent.lt.<br />
Comfortable and safe new cars and minibuses at low prices.<br />
Discounts for long-term rentals. Free car delivery anywhere in<br />
Vilnius. Prices from 99Lt (€29)/day. Q 24 hrs.<br />
Easy Rental C-4, Didžioji 5, tel. 212 36 91/+370<br />
604 117 79, fax 212 36 94, info@easyrental.lt, www.<br />
easyrental.lt. Comfortable and safe cars, minibuses and<br />
limousines. Good service, attractive prices, convenient location.<br />
Leasing and chauffeur available, Kaunas airport pick-up<br />
at reasonable rates. Q Open 24hrs J<br />
Europcar B-2, L.Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 9-1, tel. +370 686<br />
329 71/212 02 07, info@europcar.lt, www.europcar.lt.<br />
Rents cars and minibuses. Chauffeur and one-way rentals<br />
available. Also at Rodūnios kelias 2 (Airport), tel. +370 687<br />
408 87/216 34 42. Open 09:00 - 18:00. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Eurorenta Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. +370<br />
611 166 11/233 17 17, vilnius@eurorenta.lt, www.<br />
eurorenta.lt. Throughout Lithuania and Baltic States. Free<br />
mileage. Discounts for long term rentals, weekend rates.<br />
One-way rentals. English, Russian and Lithuanian-speaking<br />
drivers also available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Selfish idiot<br />
Hertz H-2, Kalvarijų 14, tel. 272 69 40, fax 272 69 70,<br />
reservations@hertz.lt, www.hertz.lt. Convenient one-way<br />
rentals in the Baltic States, with chauffeur or without. Also<br />
at Rodūnios 2 (Airport), tel./fax 232 93 01, airport@hertz.<br />
lt. Open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Ollex Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. 210 43 04, fax<br />
210 43 03, info@ollex.lt, www.ollex.eu. Car, minibus, bus<br />
rental, as well as full transport services and drivers who will<br />
take the hassle out of getting from here to there. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 23:00.<br />
Rimas , tel. +370 698 216 62, rimas.cars@is.lt. Rent a<br />
car with an English-speaking driver and enjoy good rates in the<br />
Baltic States. Rimas also rents the cheapest self-drive cars in<br />
town. The charming man who started this company can also<br />
arrange excellent tours of Vilnius. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Royale Limousines I-4, Paupio 5-15, tel. +370 680<br />
185 57, info@royale.lt, www.royale.lt. Wedding, corporate<br />
schmoozing, or just impressing the pants of someone<br />
- why not roll up in a Roller? The navy blue Rolls Royce Silver<br />
Spurs are all class for any occasion. Q 24hrs, booking<br />
advisable. A<br />
Senamiesčio Gidas C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel./fax 261<br />
55 58, tel. +370 699 540 64 , info@vilniuscitytour.<br />
com, www.vilniuscitytour.com. Transfers to Minsk, Riga<br />
and Klaipėda. Countryside tours with English-speaking driver.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00. J<br />
Sixt Rodūnios kelias 2 (Airport), tel. 239 56 36/+370<br />
650 450 25, rent@sixt.lt, www.sixt.lt. Short-term rentals<br />
of new cars, minibuses and buses. Mini lease (1-12 months).<br />
Self-drives or chauffeur-drives, full package of insurance.<br />
Unlimited mileage, 24hrs technical support and replacement<br />
car services. Also at Geležinio Vilko 18a, tel. 210 96 30. Open<br />
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Transporent G-5, Smolensko 6-320, tel. +370 612 944<br />
40, info@transporent.lt, www.transporent.com. While<br />
they are a fleet company, they also offer rental cars to individuals<br />
with all the services you would expect. 24hr service, oneway<br />
rentals and pick-up and delivery. Reservations required<br />
for weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Unirent Rodūnios kelias 2 (Airport), tel. +370 700 558<br />
55, fax 216 54 62, unirent@unirent.lt, www.unirent.lt.<br />
Comfortable cars for tours and business trips. Very reasonable<br />
rates. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.<br />
Airport<br />
Airport Rodūnios kelias 2, tel. 273 93 05, fax 232 91<br />
22, airport@vno.lt, www.vno.lt. The airport (oro uostas),<br />
situated approximately 5km south of the city centre, is small<br />
and easily navigable. The departure lounge has only two gates<br />
with a small gift shop. Take the spiral staircase upstairs to<br />
the café and watch while others take-off. A small post office<br />
is also on hand. To get there by bus, take bus 2 from Lukiškių<br />
square or 1 from in front of the train station.<br />
Airlines<br />
Aeroflot A-2, Pylimo 8/2, tel./fax 212 41 89, www.<br />
aeroflot.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
J<br />
Aeroservisas G-3, J.Jasinskio 16B, tel. 252 65 88/<br />
+370 655 481 21, fax 252 65 89, info@aeroservisas.<br />
lt, www.airtaxi.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun.<br />
air Baltic C-2, Universiteto 10-7, tel. 243 06 18/243 06<br />
19, fax 262 96 82, www.airbaltic.com. Also at Rodūnios<br />
2 (Airport, Departure hall, 2nd floor), fax 235 60 10. Open<br />
05:00-22:30, Tue, Thu 04:00-20:30, Sat 05:00-18:30, Sun<br />
05:00-22:30. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sun. J
Airline & Airport news<br />
The shiny new terminal at Vilnius Airport was completed<br />
at the time of writing but had not opened. Reasons for<br />
this depend on who you talk to: staffing problems, headscratching<br />
about how air bridges work or a lack of shops.<br />
Lack of shops seems most likely, so they’ll probably<br />
install a coffee vending machine sometime soon and get<br />
the new terminal open during the life of this guide.<br />
We were delighted to see recently that flyLAL, Lithuania’s<br />
national (and budgetish) airline, have scheduled flights to<br />
Stansted airport, north of London. Great news to those for<br />
whom Stansted is a more convenient option than Gatwick.<br />
Unfortunately there are only a handful of flights during<br />
December and January. See www.flylal.com.<br />
airBaltic is offering what they call a Baltic Pass. It’s a bit<br />
messy and confusing, but the nub of it all is that if you<br />
fly into the Baltic states with airBaltic, they will offer you<br />
cheap flights within the Baltic states – €35 or 125Lt (not<br />
including airport taxes). The idea is that you can hop<br />
around exploring the Baltic capitals for bus-like prices.<br />
You can have up to eight Baltic Pass flights which must<br />
be used within three weeks of first arriving in the Baltics.<br />
The first one must be scheduled in advance but after that<br />
you can fly willy-nilly with only two hours notice. Book at<br />
airBaltic (or agents’) ticket offices – listed to the right.<br />
Austrian Airlines H-4, J.Basanavičiaus 11/1, tel. 231<br />
31 37, fax 279 14 17, www.austrianairlines.lt. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Czech Airlines G-3, M.Valančiaus 4/9, tel. 215 15<br />
03/215 15 04, fax 215 15 11, vno@czechairlines.<br />
com, www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Finnair Rodūnios kelias 2 (Airport), tel. 261 93 39, fax<br />
210 63 53, www.finnair.com/lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Flight schedule<br />
getting Around<br />
From Vilnius To Vilnius<br />
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:30 09:05 AMSTERDAM - Schiphol (TE) until Dec 23 and from Jan 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:10 13:25<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:05 19:00 AMSTERDAM - Schiphol (TE) until Dec 23 and from Jan 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:10 23:40<br />
1 – 3 4 5 6 7 07:30 09:05 AMSTERDAM - Schiphol (TE) Dec 24 - Dec 30 1 – 3 4 5 6 7 10:10 13:25<br />
– – 3 4 5 6 7 17:05 18:40 AMSTERDAM - Schiphol (TE) Dec 24 - Dec 30 – – 3 4 5 6 7 19:30 22:45<br />
– – – 4 – – – 05:25 09:00 BARCELONA (BT) from Dec 20 – – – 4 – – – 09:55 13:35<br />
– – – – – 6 – 12:50 16:25 BARCELONA (BT) from Dec 22 – – – – – 6 – 17:10 20:50<br />
1 – 3 – 5 – – 05:35 07:10 BERLIN - Tegel (BT) until Dec 21 and from Jan 7 1 – 3 – 5 – – 07:40 09:10<br />
– – 3 – 5 – – 05:35 07:10 BERLIN - Tegel (BT) Dec 26 - Jan 4 – – 3 – 5 – – 07:40 09:10<br />
– – – – – – 7 05:00 06:35 BERLIN - Tegel (BT) Dec 2 - Dec 16 – – – – – – 7 07:05 08:35<br />
– – – – – 6 7 05:00 06:35 BERLIN - Tegel (BT) from Dec 30 – – – – – 6 7 07:05 08:35<br />
1 2 3 4 – – – 04:35 07:00 BRUSSELS - Zaventem (BT) until Dec 24 and from Jan 7 1 2 3 4 – – – 07:40 10:05<br />
– – – – – – 7 15:00 17:25 BRUSSELS - Zaventem (BT) – – – – – – 7 18:15 20:40<br />
– – 3 4 – – – 04:35 07:00 BRUSSELS - Zaventem (BT) Dec 26 - Jan 3 – – 3 4 – – – 07:40 10:05<br />
– – – – 5 – – 14:30 16:15 BRUSSELS - Zaventem (BT) – – – – 5 – – 17:40 20:05<br />
– 2 3 4 5 – – 16:45 18:15 BRUSSELS - Zaventem (TE) until Dec 22 and from Jan 2 – 2 3 4 5 – – 19:10 22:35<br />
1 – – – – – – 08:25 09:35 BRUSSELS - Zaventem (TE) until Dec 22 and from Jan 2 1 – – – – – – 10:20 13:45<br />
– – – – – – 7 16:20 18:15 BRUSSELS - Zaventem (TE) until Dec 22 and from Jan 2 – – – – – – 7 19:10 22:55<br />
– – 3 4 5 – – 16:45 18:15 BRUSSELS - Zaventem (TE) Dec 26 - Dec 29 – – 3 4 5 – – 19:10 22:35<br />
– – – – – 6 – 16:20 18:15 BRUSSELS - Zaventem (TE) Dec 26 - Dec 29 – – – – – 6 – 19:10 22:55<br />
– – – – – 6 7 05:00 06:30 COPENHAGEN (BT) until Dec 29 and from Jan 5 12:05<br />
Dec 24 - Jan 4<br />
1 – 3 4 5 – – 04:45 06:15 COPENHAGEN (BT)<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 04:45 06:15 COPENHAGEN (BT)<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
flyLAL A.Gustaičio 4, tel. 252 55 55, info@flylal.com, www.<br />
flylal.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.<br />
LOT Rodūnios kelias 2 (Airport, Arrival hall), tel./fax<br />
273 90 20, lotvno@lot.pl, www.lot.com. QOpen 07:30<br />
- 15:30, Tue 08:00 - 15:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 15:00.<br />
Lufthansa Rodūnios kelias 2 (Airport), tel. 232 92 92, fax<br />
210 63 53, ticketing@litcargus.lt, www.lufthansa.com.<br />
(Cargo Export tel. 233 76 99 Import tel. 232 93 02 cargo@<br />
litcargus.lt). QOpen 04:30 - 18:00.<br />
SAS Rodūnios kelias 2 (Airport), tel. 235 60 00, fax 235<br />
60 01, www.sas.lt. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30.<br />
Travel agencies<br />
AAA Wrislit B-5, Rūdninkų 16, tel. 210 76 61/210 76<br />
60, fax 212 20 98, wrislit@wrislit.lt, www.wrislit.lt. Also<br />
at Konstitucijos 7 (Europa), tel. 248 72 02, fax 248 72 07.<br />
08:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Avanturas C-3, Literatų 8, tel. 265 23 55, fax 265 19 34,<br />
info@avanturas.lt, www.avanturas.lt. Lithuania not extreme<br />
enough for you? These people have interesting hair and can send<br />
you to interesting places like China, Nepal and Vietnam. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Baltic Clipper G-3, Gedimino 64, tel. 231 23 23, fax<br />
231 23 24, info@bc.lt, www.bc.lt. Specialising in helping<br />
visitors from Denmark, Italy, Protugal, Finland and USA.<br />
Conferences and excursions. Also at A.Goštauto/J.Jasinskio<br />
17, tel. 249 09 00, fax 249 09 07. Open 09:00-18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Baltic Tours Vilnius G-3, J.Tumo-Vaižganto 9/1, tel.<br />
266 16 16, fax 212 67 67, info@baltictours.lt, www.<br />
baltictours.lt. Helping visitors from Japan and the States,<br />
but also happy to send you anywhere. Excellent service from<br />
friendly English speaking staff. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri<br />
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Dec 21 and from Jan 7<br />
COPENHAGEN (BT) until Dec 23 and from Jan 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:35 10:05<br />
COPENHAGEN (BT) Dec 24 - Dec 31 1 – 3 4 5 6 – 08:35 10:05<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:55 12:30 COPENHAGEN (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:05 15:35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:20 17:55 COPENHAGEN (BT) until Dec 23 and from Jan 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:30 21:00<br />
– 2 3 4 5 – 7 16:20 17:55 COPENHAGEN (BT) Dec 25 - Dec 30 – 2 3 4 5 – 7 19:30 21:00<br />
1 – 3 – 5 6 – 05:20 08:40 DUBLIN (BT) 1 – 3 – 5 6 – 09:05 12:30<br />
1 – – – 5 6 – 22:55 00:20 DUBLIN (TE) until Dec 30 and from Jan 4 – 2 – – – 6 7 01:05 04:15<br />
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 09:15 12:30 DUSSELDORF (BT) until Dec 22 and from Jan 8 – 2 – 4 – 6 – 13:00 16:05<br />
– – – 4 – 6 – 09:15 12:30 DUSSELDORF (BT) Dec 27 - Jan 5 – – – 4 – 6 – 13:00 16:05<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
getting Around<br />
Flight schedule continued<br />
From Vilnius To Vilnius<br />
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 15:45 FRANKFURT/MAIN - Terminal 2 (LH) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:45 13:55<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:30 13:00 FRANKFURT/MAIN - Terminal 2 (TE) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:20 17:45<br />
1 – 3 – 5 – 7 10:20 13:00 HAMBURG (BT) until Dec 23 and from Jan 7 1 – 3 – 5 – 7 13:35 15:55<br />
– – 3 – 5 – 7 10:20 13:00 HAMBURG (BT) Dec 26 - Jan 6 – – 3 – 5 – 7 13:35 15:55<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 04:45 06:30 HELSINKI - Vantaa (BT) until Dec 6, Dec 8 - 22, from Jan 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 07:00 08:40<br />
1 – – 4 – 6 – 04:45 06:30 HELSINKI - Vantaa (BT) Dec 27 - Dec 31 1 – – 4 – 6 – 07:00 08:40<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – 7 16:55 18:40 HELSINKI - Vantaa (BT) until Dec 5, Dec 7 - 23, from Jan 7 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 19:10 20:50<br />
– 2 3 4 5 – 7 16:55 18:40 HELSINKI - Vantaa (BT) Dec 26 - Jan 6 – 2 3 4 5 – 7 19:10 20:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 11:30 12:40 HELSINKI - Vantaa (AY) 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 09:30 10:45<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:05 19:20 HELSINKI - Vantaa (AY) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:15 17:30<br />
– – – – – – 7 07:50 09:05 INNSBRUCK (TE) from Dec 30 – – – – – – 7 10:50 13:20<br />
– 2 – – 5 – – 06:40 09:50 ISTANBUL (TE) – 2 – – 5 – – 10:45 13:50<br />
1 – – – – – – 10:20 11:40 KIEV - Borispol (TE) 1 – – – – – – 13:00 14:25<br />
– 2 3 4 – 6 7 10:35 12:00 KIEV - Borispol (TE) – 2 3 4 – 6 7 12:55 14:20<br />
– – – – 5 – – 09:45 11:05 KIEV - Borispol (TE) – – – – 5 – – 12:05 13:30<br />
– – – – 5 – – 18:35 19:55 KIEV - Borispol (TE) – – – – 5 – – 20:40 22:05<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:40 17:35 LONDON - Gatwick (BT) until Dec 30 and from Jan 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:15 21:00<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:25 15:25 LONDON - Gatwick N (TE) until Dec 24 and from Jan 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:15 21:05<br />
– – 3 4 5 6 7 14:25 15:25 LONDON - Gatwick N (TE) Dec 26 - Dec 30 – – 3 4 5 6 7 16:15 21:05<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 07:00 LONDON - Stansted (TE) Dec 17 - Dec 23 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:45 12:50<br />
– – 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 07:00 LONDON - Stansted (TE) Jan 2 - Jan 6 – – 3 4 5 6 7 07:45 12:50<br />
– – – – – 6 – 14:15 16:05 LYON (TE) from Dec 29 – – – – – 6 – 16:55 20:45<br />
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 13:20 17:10 MALAGA (TE) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 00:35 06:00<br />
1 – – – 5 – – 16:00 17:50 MILAN - Malpensa (TE) 1 – – – 5 – – 18:40 22:15<br />
– – 3 – – – 7 09:05 10:45 MILAN - Malpensa (TE) – – 3 – – – 7 11:40 15:15<br />
– 2 – 4 – – – 14:30 17:10 MILAN - Malpensa (BT) Dec 6 - Dec 20 and from Dec 27 – 2 – 4 – – – 17:55 20:35<br />
– – – – 5 – – 07:35 10:15 MILAN - Malpensa (BT) Dec 7 - Dec 14 – – – – 5 – – 11:00 13:40<br />
– – – – 5 6 – 07:35 10:15 MILAN - Malpensa (BT) from Dec 21 – – – – 5 6 – 11:00 13:40<br />
– – – – – – 7 09:05 11:45 MILAN - Malpensa (BT) – – – – – – 7 13:10 15:50<br />
1 – – – – 6 – 06:10 08:50 MOSCOW - Sheremetievo - C (TE) Dec 22 - Dec 30 1 – – – – 6 – 09:40 10:25<br />
– – 3 4 5 – 7 17:45 20:25 MOSCOW - Sheremetievo - C (TE) Dec 22 - Dec 30 – – 3 4 5 – 7 21:25 22:10<br />
1 – 3 – – 6 – 06:10 08:50 MOSCOW- Sheremetievo - C (TE) until Dec 21, from Jan 7 1 – 3 – – 6 – 09:40 10:25<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:45 20:25 MOSCOW- Sheremetievo - C (TE) until Dec 21, from Jan 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:25 22:10<br />
– – 3 4 5 6 7 17:45 20:25 MOSCOW - Sheremetievo - C (TE) Jan 2 - Jan 6 – – 3 4 5 6 7 21:25 22:10<br />
1 – 3 – 5 – 7 09:45 11:55 MUNICH (BT) until Dec 2 1 – 3 – 5 – 7 12:25 14:30<br />
1 – 3 – 5 6 7 09:45 11:55 MUNICH (BT) Dec 3 - Dec 17 1 – 3 – 5 6 7 12:25 14:30<br />
– – 3 4 5 6 7 09:45 11:55 MUNICH (BT) Dec 19 - Dec 30 – – 3 4 5 6 7 12:25 14:30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:45 11:55 MUNICH (BT) from Jan 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:25 14:30<br />
1 – 3 – 5 – 7 16:35 18:30 OSLO (BT) until Dec 23 and from Jan 7 1 – 3 – 5 – 7 19:10 21:00<br />
– – 3 – 5 – 7 16:35 18:30 OSLO (BT) Dec 26 - Jan 6 – – 3 – 5 – 7 19:10 21:00<br />
– – – 4 – – – 07:10 09:00 OSLO (BT) until Dec 20 and from Jan 3 – – – 4 – – – 04:35 06:30<br />
1 – 3 – – – – 07:35 09:25 PARIS - Charles de Gaulle (TE) until Dec 23 and from Jan 2 1 – 3 – – – – 10:50 14:35<br />
– – – – 5 – – 08:05 09:55 PARIS - Charles de Gaulle (TE) until Dec 23 and from Jan 2 – – – – 5 – – 11:10 14:55<br />
– – – – – – 7 16:35 18:25 PARIS - Charles de Gaulle (TE) until Dec 23 and from Jan 2 – – – – – – 7 19:10 22:55<br />
– – 3 – – – – 07:35 09:25 PARIS - Charles de Gaulle (TE) Dec 26 - Dec 30 – – 3 – – – – 10:50 14:35<br />
– – – – 5 – – 08:05 09:55 PARIS - Charles de Gaulle (TE) Dec 26 - Dec 30, from Jan 2 – – – – 5 – – 11:10 14:55<br />
– – – – – – 7 16:35 18:25 PARIS - Charles de Gaulle (TE) Dec 26 - Dec 30, from Jan 2 – – – – – – 7 19:10 22:55<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 06:35 PRAGUE - Ruzin (OK) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:30 14:10<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:55 15:35 PRAGUE - Ruzin (OK) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:10 21:50<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:50 07:45 RIGA (BT) until Dec 22, from Jan 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 05:30 06:25<br />
– – 3 4 5 6 – 06:50 07:45 RIGA (BT) Dec 29 - Jan 5 – – 3 4 5 6 – 05:30 06:25<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 10:00 10:55 RIGA (BT) until Dec 22, from Jan 7 1 2 3 4 5 – – 11:20 12:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 18:15 19:10 RIGA (BT) until Dec 22, from Jan 7 1 2 3 4 5 – – 16:55 17:50<br />
– 2 3 4 5 – – 18:15 19:10 RIGA (BT) Dec 27 - Jan 4 – 2 3 4 5 – – 16:55 17:50<br />
– – – – – – 7 07:20 10:05 ROME - Fiumicino (BT) – – – – – – 7 10:55 13:45<br />
– – 3 – – – – 10:50 13:35 ROME - Fiumicino (BT) – – 3 – – – – 14:25 17:15<br />
– – – – 5 – – 08:25 10:20 ROME - Fiumicino (TE) – – – – 5 – – 11:10 14:55<br />
– – – – – – 7 16:05 18:00 ROME - Fiumicino (TE) – – – – – – 7 18:50 22:35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – 7 16:15 18:15 STOCKHOLM (BT) until Dec 23 and from Jan 7 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 18:45 20:35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – 7 16:15 18:15 STOCKHOLM (BT) Dec 26 - Jan 6 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 18:45 20:35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 05:15 07:15 STOCKHOLM (BT) until Dec 24 and from Jan 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 07:45 09:35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 04:55 06:25 TALLINN (BT) until Dec 24 and from Jan 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:55 08:20<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 12:40 14:10 TALLINN (BT) until Dec 21 and from Jan 7 1 2 3 4 5 – – 14:35 16:00<br />
1 – 3 4 5 6 – 04:55 06:25 TALLINN (BT) Dec 27 - Jan 5 1 – 3 4 5 6 – 06:55 08:20<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – 7 16:25 17:55 TALLINN (BT) until Dec 23 and from Jan 7 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 18:20 19:45<br />
– 2 3 4 5 – 7 16:25 17:55 TALLINN (BT) Dec 25 - Jan 6 – 2 3 4 5 – – 18:20 19:45<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:35 08:00 TALLINN (TE) until Dec 23 and from Jan 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 08:30 09:40<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – 7 18:30 19:45 TALLINN (TE) until Dec 23 and from Jan 2 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 20:20 21:30<br />
1 – 3 4 5 6 – 06:45 08:00 TALLINN (TE) Dec 24 - Jan 1 1 – 3 4 5 6 – 08:30 09:40<br />
– 2 3 4 5 – 7 18:30 19:45 TALLINN (TE) Dec 24 - Jan 1 – 2 3 4 5 – 7 20:20 21:30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:05 16:10 VIENA (OS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:50 13:55<br />
1 – 3 4 5 6 – 06:25 06:50 WARSAW - Okiecie (LO) – 2 3 4 5 – 7 19:55 22:20<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 15:15 WARSAW - Okiecie (LO) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:45 14:10<br />
– – – 4 – 6 – 15:20 17:45 ZURICH (BT) until Dec 29 – – – 4 – 6 – 18:25 20:45<br />
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 15:20 17:45 ZURICH (BT) from Jan 1 – 2 – 4 – 6 – 18:25 20:45<br />
Airline codes: AY - Finnair, BT - Air Baltic, LO-LOT - Polish Airlines, LH - Lufthansa, TE - flyLAL, OK - Czech Airlines, OS - Austrian Airlines,<br />
Valid until February 1, 2008, unless indicated.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>
Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center C-4,<br />
Subačiaus 2, tel. 1593/212 02 20, fax 212 21 96, lcc@<br />
bts.lt, www.bts.lt. Bringing visitors from Russia, Germany,<br />
USA, UK and South America. Also at Gedimino 24, tel. 212<br />
77 15, faks. 212 77 05. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. J<br />
BPC Travel A.Gustaičio 4, tel. 210 27 37, fax 210 27<br />
38, info@bpctravel.lt, www.bpctravel.lt. Also at Rodūnios<br />
kelias 2 (Airport), tel. 210 52 59, fax 210 52 74, Ozo 25<br />
(Akropolis), tel. 204 23 88, fax 204 23 87. Konstitucijos 12,<br />
tel. 210 25 90. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Delta H-3, A.Jakšto 13, tel. 210 74 44, fax 210 74 43,<br />
info@delta-interservis.lt, www.delta-interservis.lt. Also<br />
at J.Jasinskio 16a, tel. 252 61 61, faks. 252 61 63. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong> Via G-3, M.K.Čiurlionio 7/1-1, tel. 231 00 49, fax 231<br />
09 37, tours@invia.lt, www.invia.lt. Full tourism service<br />
and excursions in both Vilnius and Lithuania. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Kelionių Panorama A-1, A.Vienuolio 12, tel. 261<br />
87 26, fax 215 15 10, info@panoramatravel.lt, www.<br />
panoramatravel.lt. Services for visitors from Spain, Italy<br />
and Russia. Also conferences. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. J<br />
Kelvita B-6, Geležinkelio 16, tel. 210 61 30, fax 210<br />
61 31, kelvita@takas.lt, www.kelvita.lt. Friendly German<br />
and English-speaking staff tucked away inside a little kiosk<br />
(stand Nr 30) in the international ticket sales hall at the train<br />
station. They can sort out car rental, accomodation visas for<br />
Belarus, Russia or Ukraine. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. J<br />
Lithuanian Holidays H-2, Šeimyniškių 1a, tel. 263<br />
60 64, fax 272 68 64, travel@lithuanianholidays.lt,<br />
www.lithuanianholidays.lt. Helping visitors from western<br />
Europe, the States and Japan. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lithuanian Tours I-2, Šeimyniškių 18, tel. 272 41<br />
54, fax 272 18 15, contact@lithuaniantours.com,<br />
www.lithuaniantours.com. Full range of travel services in<br />
Lithuania and the Baltics. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Liturimex H-4, J.Basanavičiaus 11/1, tel. 212 60 63,<br />
fax 262 84 29, info@liturimex.lt, www.liturimex.lt. Also<br />
Konstitucijos 15/5, tel. 279 99 88. Open 09:00-18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. <strong>In</strong>coming tour operator in the Baltics. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Pasaulio Ratas G-4, J.Basanavičiaus 29A-16, tel./fax<br />
265 02 45, pasaulioratas@takas.lt. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Senamiesčio Gidas C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel./fax 261 55<br />
58, tel. +370 699 540 64, info@vilniuscitytour.com, www.<br />
vilniuscitytour.com. Not just tours of Old Town, but tours of Belarus<br />
too. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00. J<br />
Vilnius Travel Service G-3, J.Jasinskio 4-15, tel. 249<br />
65 07/+370 616 594 18, info@vilniustravel.lt, www.<br />
vilniustravel.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Visit Lithuania B-2, Odminių 5, tel. 262 52 41, fax 262<br />
52 42, info@visitlithuania.net, www.visitlithuania.net.<br />
Guided tours, accommodation, transport services in the<br />
Baltic States. Flight tickets.StartFragment QOpen 08:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Travel agencies abroad<br />
Baltic Adventures Tel. +44 158 246 22 83, info@balticadventures.co.uk,<br />
www.balticadventures.co.uk. UK<br />
based company specialising in group tours to Baltics, selling<br />
activity weekends, sports, corporate incentives.<br />
getting Around<br />
Driving<br />
Lithuanian drivers are bloody-minded and completely<br />
bonkers, making any journey in a car a bit of an edge-ofthe-seat<br />
adventure. They are especially fond of tailgating,<br />
cutting lanes and dangerous overtaking manoeuvres.<br />
<strong>In</strong>deed, Lithuanians are now, officially, the worst drivers<br />
in Europe. The country has the hightest rate of fatalities<br />
in the European Union.<br />
Not surprisingly, accidents are common. If you are<br />
unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident in which<br />
any material or personal damage occurs (even if only to<br />
your own vehicle) you must leave your vehicle exactly<br />
where it is, call the police, and then wait for them to arrive.<br />
Even if your car is obstructing the flow of traffic, you must<br />
not move it until the police have arrived, danced about<br />
the wreckage with a tape measure and some lollipops,<br />
drawn some little pictures, and given you the all-clear.<br />
Not only is leaving the scene of an accident an offence,<br />
but the lack of an official police report will give insurance<br />
companies an excuse to not pay.<br />
Seat belts must be worn, although locals tend not to<br />
bother. (Hardly surprising for the country that also has the<br />
highest suicide rate.) Headlights must be on at all times<br />
while driving. All vehicles must be fitted with a small fire<br />
extinguisher and carry a first-aid kit, a reflective road-side<br />
warning triangle and a reflective safety-vest. You must<br />
have your vehicle registration papers and licence with<br />
you while driving. A supply of bribe money is no longer<br />
required, but can come in handy.<br />
<strong>In</strong> winter, you’ll also want to make sure you have an ice<br />
scraper and maybe a brush for getting all the weather off<br />
your car before you set off. Winter tyres are mandatory<br />
from November 10.<br />
<strong>In</strong> and around town the speed limit is 50km/h unless<br />
indicated otherwise. On country roads you can drive at<br />
70km/h, and on highways you can drive at 110km/h. The<br />
big exception is the A1 (Vilnius - Kaunas) where 100km/h<br />
is the maximum. Lithuanian police use radar speed guns<br />
and enforce speed limits stringently.<br />
Baltic Holidays 40 Princess Street, Manchester, M1<br />
6DE, UK, tel. +44 845 070 57 11, fax +44 870 120<br />
29 73, info@balticholidays.com, www.balticholidays.<br />
com. The UK’s specialist in travel to Lithuania, Latvia and<br />
Estonia, offering flights, accommodation and a whole host<br />
of specialist packages.QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Baltics and Beyond 73 Lwr Market Street, Broadbottom,<br />
Cheshire, SK14 6AA, UK, tel. +44 845 094 2125, info@<br />
balticsandbeyond.com, www.balticsandbeyond.com.<br />
Specialising in custom and creative themed holidays, such as<br />
spa breaks, fun family adventures, country tourism and more.<br />
Baltic Travel Company Queens Wharf, Queen Caroline<br />
Street, London, W6 9RJ, United Kingdom, tel. +44<br />
870 753 77 47, info@baltictravelcompany.com, www.<br />
baltictravelcompany.com. Specialising in tailor made<br />
holidays and tours from UK to the Baltics. QOpen 08:30<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Regent Holidays 15 John Street, Bristol BS1 2HR, UK,<br />
tel. +44 870 499 09 11, fax +44 117 925 48 66, regent@<br />
regent-holidays.co.uk, www.regent-holidays.co.uk. Long<br />
established leaders in specialised trips to Lithuania, the<br />
Baltics and other ‘difficult’ countries in the immediate region.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
0 MAil & Phones<br />
Post<br />
Central Post Office B-1, Gedimino 7, tel. 261 67 59,<br />
info.vilnius@post.lt, www.post.lt. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Postal rates<br />
Express mail rates<br />
Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a<br />
maximum of 500g. EMS is cheap because it’s slow.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
London Paris New York<br />
DHL 216Lt* 216Lt* 274Lt<br />
EMS 133Lt 122Lt 155Lt<br />
FedEx 149Lt* 149Lt* 166Lt<br />
TNT 190Lt* 190Lt* 200Lt*<br />
UPS 166Lt* 166Lt* 195Lt*<br />
* additional payment<br />
Prepaid SIM cards<br />
Avoid steep roaming costs when visiting Lithuania by buying a prepaid SIM card and sticking it in your<br />
mobile. All three Lithuanian mobile phone companies now offer a prepaid service. Below is a comparitive<br />
list of what you’ll need to pay to use each of them.<br />
Card Price<br />
(Lt)<br />
Lithuania EU Outside EU<br />
Letter (44g) 1.05Lt 2.95Lt 3.35Lt<br />
Postcard (20g) 1.55Lt 2.45Lt 2.90Lt<br />
CD (130g) 2.50Lt 5.90Lt 11.75Lt<br />
Book (600g) 4.90Lt 15Lt 40.95Lt<br />
Express mail<br />
DHL Dariaus ir Girėno 40, tel. 236 07 00/(8-800) 223<br />
45, fax 216 77 40, ltinfo@dhl.com, www.dhl.lt. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
EMS B-6, Geležinkelio 6, tel. 239 83 28/239 83 33, fax<br />
233 02 28, www.post.lt. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. J<br />
FedEx Gustaičio 1, tel. (8-800) 202 00, fax 230 61 40,<br />
fedexlt.ops@fedexbaltic.com, www.fedex.com. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
TNT Dariaus ir Girėno 44, tel. 239 75 55/(8-800) 252<br />
22, fax 239 75 56, www.tnt.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,<br />
Fri 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
UPS E-5, Eigulių 15, tel. 247 22 22, fax 247 22 00,<br />
ups@ups.lt, www.ups.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Local<br />
(Lt/min)<br />
London<br />
(Lt/min)<br />
Top-up<br />
(Lt)<br />
ISPs<br />
Aiva Sistema A-5, Aguonų 10, tel. 212 32 58, fax 212<br />
78 25, sales@office.aiva.lt, www.aiva.lt. QOpen 08:30 -<br />
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
<strong>In</strong>fostruktūra C-3, Pilies 23/15, tel. 239 17 34, fax<br />
279 13 31, info@is.lt, www.is.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00,<br />
Fri 08:00 - 16:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Zebra Tel. 1817, informacija@zebra.lt, www.zebra.lt.<br />
Lithuanian Telecom can provide you with internet access<br />
too! Call them for details.<br />
Making the call<br />
As if transfixed by the power of the eight Pagan Sabbaths,<br />
or one of those stupid Magic 8 balls that comes<br />
up with answers like ‘Reply hazy, try again’, Lithuania has<br />
decided to chuck an 8 in front of every phone number<br />
– except if you’re dialling within a city to a fixed line, or if<br />
you’re dialling from outside the country. It’s like an area<br />
code for the whole country. Got it? No, of course not<br />
– because it’s stupid and it doesn’t make sense. Let’s<br />
try to break it down:<br />
Calling from a mobile<br />
If you’ve got the full number, use the international format:<br />
+370 123 412 34.<br />
If you’ve been given a local mobile number, just throw<br />
away the 8 and replace it with a +370. So 8123 412<br />
34 becomes +370 123 412 34. If you’ve been given an<br />
eight-digit mobile number that doesn’t start with 8, just<br />
put the +370 in front of it.<br />
Calling a fixed line gets a little more complicated<br />
because you need to know in which city the number is<br />
located. Then it’s +370 – City Code – number. The city<br />
codes are listed above.<br />
If you are given a number starting with 8, it must also<br />
contain a city code, so you can just drop the 8 and<br />
replace it with +370.<br />
Calling from a fixed line<br />
To call an international format number in Lithuania, such<br />
as +370 123 412 34, replace the +370 with an 8.<br />
If you’ve been given what looks like a shortish number<br />
– five or six digits – you’ll need to know the city code, and<br />
then dial 8 – City Code – number. To call an international<br />
number, dial 00 – Country Code – number.<br />
SMS<br />
(Lt)<br />
Voicemail<br />
(Lt/call)<br />
Bitė (Labas) 5.00 0.49 1.95 5/10/20/40/99 0.15 0.10 99%<br />
Omnitel (Ekstra) 9.99 0.52 1.95 5/10/20/40/100 0.15 0.30 99%<br />
Tele 2 (Pildyk) 4.79 0.48 1.85 5/7/10/15/20/35/50 0.10 0.15 96%<br />
Coverage<br />
Note All prices quoted are for peak-time calls, and are subject to change during the lifespan of this guide.
Telephone codes<br />
Laptop login<br />
Wi-Fi W<br />
If you’re wi-fi enabled, you’re ready to go online. There are<br />
many cafés, restaurants, hotels and public spaces in Vilnius<br />
that are a part of a network of wireless internet hotspots.<br />
Notable hotspots include the whole of Pilies and Gedimino<br />
streets and tourist information centres. To use these hotspots,<br />
just turn your wi-fi on, and choose the ‘Zebra’ network.<br />
When you open your web browser, you will see a web page<br />
with prices and instructions. You can pay via SMS if you have<br />
a local SIM card. Be warned, however, that the Zebra network<br />
is not cheap (50Lt per month plus 5Lt per hour) and, in our<br />
experience, is unreliable. We also noticed free WiFi (from<br />
another supplier) in Cozy (see page 29), and that some hotels<br />
offer free WiFi, so hanging around in their foyers, bars and<br />
cafés could be another option worth trying.<br />
Modem<br />
A nifty hassle-free dial-up option is also available. Wire<br />
yourself up to any fixed phone line, and set up a connection<br />
to dial 890 15 55 55. Leave the username and<br />
password blank – the charges of 0.12Lt per minute will<br />
be charged to the telephone line account holder.<br />
GPRS & 3G/UMTS<br />
Third-generation mobile services are offered by Bitė and<br />
Omnitel – but of course you’ll need a local SIM card to<br />
use them. They both have big sparkly shops on Gedimino<br />
where the staff will be happy to help you.<br />
MAil & Phones<br />
Lithuanian city codes <strong>In</strong>ternational country codes<br />
Alytus 315 Klaipėda 46 Šilalė 449 Albania 355 Germany 49 New<br />
Zealand<br />
Anykščiai 381 Kretinga 445 Šilutė 441 Australia 61 Greece 30 Norway 47<br />
Birštonas 319 Marijampolė 343 Švenčionys 387 Austria 43 Hong Kong 852 Poland 48<br />
Biržai 319 Molėtai 383 Tauragė 446 Belarus 375 Hungary 36 Portugal 351<br />
Druskininkai 313 Neringa/<br />
Nida<br />
469 Telšiai 444 Belgium 32 Ireland 353 Romania 40<br />
Elektrėnai 528 Palanga 460 Trakai 528 Bulgaria 359 Israel 972 Russia 7<br />
Ignalina 386 Panevėžys 45 Ukmergė 340 USA/<br />
Canada<br />
Collegium C-3, Pilies 22, tel. 261 83<br />
34, info@dora.lt. Art meets the internet<br />
in this cosy and pleasant internet café<br />
right on the main street of the Old Town.<br />
Full programme package for serious<br />
work. A range of useful internet and<br />
office services including laptop access,<br />
photocopying, printing, binding, laminating, and cheap<br />
calls. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed<br />
Sun. J<br />
64<br />
1 Italy 39 Slovakia 421<br />
Jonava 349 Pasvalys 451 Utena 389 Croatia 385 Japan 81 Slovenia 386<br />
Joniškis 426 Plungė 448 Varėna 310 Cuba 53 Latvia 371 Spain 34<br />
Kaišiadorys 346 Radviliškis 422 Vilnius 5 Czech Rep. 420 Liectenstein 423 Sweden 46<br />
Kaunas 37 Rokiškis 458 Visaginas 386 Denmark 45 Lithuania 370 Switzerland 41<br />
Kėdainiai 347 Šiauliai 41 Zarasai 385 Estonia 372 Luxembourg 352 Turkey 90<br />
Mobile phones<br />
Bitė G-5, Žemaitės 15, tel. +370 699 232 30, info@<br />
bite.lt, www.bite.lt. The second of the three current mobile<br />
operators in the country. Also Gedimino 1, open 10:00-19:00,<br />
Sat 10:00-16:00. Closed Sun. Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Konstitucijos<br />
7A (Europa), open 10:00-22:00. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Finland 358 Moldova 373 Ukraine 380<br />
France 33 Netherlands 31 UK 44<br />
Omnitel G-3, J.Jasinskio 16b, tel. +370 698 633 33,<br />
fax 274 55 74, info@omnitel.net, www.omnitel.lt. The most<br />
popular of the bunch. Also at Gedimino 12, open 09:00-18:00, Sat<br />
10:00-16:00. Closed Sun. Gedimino 33, open 09:00-18:00, Sat<br />
10:00-16:00. Closed Sun. Ozo 25 (Akropolis), open 10:00-22:00.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
TELE2 G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. 213 09 10/+370 684<br />
002 12, fax 236 33 90, tele2@tele2.lt, www.tele2.lt.<br />
This low-cost mobile provider is the choice of many an expat<br />
because it rewards subscribers with free time whenever<br />
people call your phone, and it is the only service that offers<br />
roaming throughout its entire network with prepaid cards. A<br />
good choice if you plan a pan-Baltic trip. Also at Vienuolio 12,<br />
tel. 261 34 98. Open 10:00 -19:00, Sat 10:00-16:00. Closed<br />
Sun. Ozo 25 (Akropolis), open 10:00-22:00. QOpen 08:30<br />
- 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Telephone<br />
Public telephones<br />
Lithuanian public telephones (taksofonas) work using a<br />
card-only system, of which there are several denominations<br />
to choose from, namely 9Lt, 13Lt, 16Lt and 30Lt respectively.<br />
Get them at Lietuvos Spauda kiosks, post offices.<br />
TEO B-2, Vilniaus 33, tel. 117, www.teo.lt. The people to<br />
call if you want a new telephone line. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
1
2 shoPPing<br />
There are two main shopping districts in Old Town. For<br />
amber, linen, little dolls in traditional dress, t-shirts that<br />
say things like ‘Lithuania? What? Where?’, miscellaneous<br />
tourist tatt and, inexplicably, nesting Russian matrioshka<br />
dolls, head for Pilies (C-2/3), Didžioji (C-3/4) and Aušros<br />
Vartų (C-5). The area around the Town Hall (C-4) is also rife<br />
with top-end fashion stores for people with lots of litas, but<br />
no sense. Prices for global fashion brands in Lithuania are<br />
not cheap. It’s not a shopping mecca.For more fashion,<br />
footwear and a new handbag, you’ll find a somewhat more<br />
modern selection of shops lining Gedimino Prospektas<br />
(G-3/4). We won’t bother spelling out where all the individual<br />
stores are, but we will point out that there are a few<br />
Lithuanian designers scattered about – you’ll see them<br />
listed under ‘Lithuanian Designers’ in this section.If you’re<br />
after computer bits, international electrical adaptors, nuts<br />
and bolts, a vacuum cleaner, household items or a butterfly<br />
flange grommet valve thingy whotsit, you’ll have to<br />
head out of the centre of town. <strong>In</strong> addition to the Shopping<br />
Centres listed in this section, we’ve also listed a few handpicked<br />
handy places under ‘Household Goods’.<br />
Amber<br />
Amber C-5, Aušros Vartų 9, tel. 212 19 88, fax<br />
272 46 36, info@ambergif t.lt, w w w.ambergif t.<br />
lt. An astounding Aladdin’s cave of amber. The walls<br />
and ceiling are plastered with glowing chips of amber<br />
while display cabinets are full of jewellery, sculptures<br />
and more. Worth visiting even if you’re not interested in<br />
shopping. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
JA<br />
Amber Museum-Gallery C-3, Šv. Mykolo 8, tel./fax<br />
262 30 92, info@ambergallery.lt, www.ambergallery.lt.<br />
A great little place apt at displaying amber at its<br />
best. The knowledgeable and friendly staff speak English,<br />
and can waffle on for hours about the stuff if you want to<br />
know all about it. Also at Šv. Mykolo 12, tel. 212 04 99.<br />
Open 09:00-18:00. Closed Mon. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.<br />
JA<br />
Beata Amber J-1, Antakalnio 60, tel. 234 46 85, fax<br />
234 46 67, beata_amber@aiva.lt, www.beataamber.<br />
com. As much a wholesaler as retailer, you can pick up amber<br />
at a variety of stages of production here. There are hunks of<br />
raw amber, various polished beads and blobs that you can<br />
use to make your own jewellery and fine finished creations.<br />
Also Stiklių 9, tel 262 89 61. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00<br />
- 17:00. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. A<br />
Mažasis Gintaro Muziejus C-3, Didžioji 6, tel./fax 262<br />
49 86, anmejus@one.lt, www.lgstudija.lt. Arguably one<br />
of the best places to buy amber. They have a great selection<br />
and the girls who work here are really helpful. Also at Didžioji<br />
5, Didžioji 10, Didžioji 11; Aušros vartų 12, tel. 261 09 15;<br />
Pilies 38, tel. 261 11 80; Pilies 7, tel. 212 21 17; Stiklių 3 and<br />
Stiklių 7, tel. 261 02 13. Open Mon - Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA<br />
Antiques<br />
Unless the item in question is your mother-in-law, some<br />
degree of hoop-jumping and filling-in of forms may be<br />
required to get antiques out of the country. See the<br />
Customs <strong>In</strong>formation in the Basics section for details, and<br />
remember that a good antique seller will assist you with<br />
formalities.<br />
Dominikonų Antiques B-3, Dominikonų 3-2, tel. 261<br />
17 38, domininkonu@one.lt. Selling old books, furniture,<br />
postcards and other outdated items. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Fabra Ars F-3, A. Mickevičiaus 26, tel. +370 682 175<br />
67, antik@fabraars.lt. Classic and original artworks mostly<br />
from the 18-19th centuries. Mostly of interest to collectors<br />
and dealers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Sauluvos Antikvariatas C-3, Pilies 36/Literatų 3,<br />
tel. +370 613 728 30, ajibag@yahoo.com. A pokey littie<br />
hidey-hole where you can visit Stalin in the toilet, wonder<br />
how those old military helments got those dents in them and<br />
smell some interesting books. Truly bizarre. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Vilnius Antiques Centre C-3, Dominikonų 16, tel./fax<br />
262 74 79, helena@centras.lt, www.antiques.lt. A wide<br />
selection of paintings, icons, furniture, silverwear, and other<br />
cute curiosities. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Books<br />
Bookworms and cheapskates should note that in addition<br />
to the following bookstores, reading matter can be found<br />
at various libraries listed in our Lifestyle Directory.<br />
Akademinė Knyga C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. 261 97 11,<br />
fax 266 16 81, akademineknyga@humanitas.lt, www.<br />
humanitas.lt. A wide range of works for lexicographers, plus<br />
the usual dictionaries, reference books and paperback novels.<br />
One of the better places in town for foreign literature, which<br />
you will find in the back room downstairs. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Draugystė B-2, Gedimino 2, tel./fax 268 50 81, draugyste.knygynas@vaga.lt,<br />
www.vaga.lt. A large selection<br />
of Polish books and a few in English, German, Russian and<br />
Spanish. A few magazines, CDs and several tonnes of English<br />
coffee-table books and trashy novels for bags of litas. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JA<br />
French Bookshop C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. 262 05 17,<br />
l.barstyte@sviesa.lt, www.sviesa.lt. Adjoining the French<br />
Cultural Centre, if they don’t stock it they will happily order.<br />
You can also subscribe to French-language magazines here.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
JA<br />
Humanitas B-3, Dominikonų 5, tel. 262 11 53, daile@<br />
humanitas.lt, www.humanitas.lt. Coffee table books about<br />
art, artytecture, interior design, shoes and Jamie Oliver. Also<br />
travel guides and atlases. Annoyingly, they don’t put prices on<br />
everything. Also still at Vokiečių 2 for a while.QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Littera C-3, Universiteto 3, tel. 212 77 46/+370 685<br />
771 05, littera@musuknyga.lt, www.musuknyga.lt. The<br />
university bookstore is one of the best in town, as is the<br />
breathtaking work of art that is the interior. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Mūsų Knyga H-2, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. 248 70 61/+370<br />
655 540 40, fax 248 70 62, europa@musuknyga.lt, www.<br />
musuknyga.lt. Also at Žirmūnų 2, tel. 275 48 68, Savanorių<br />
43, tel. 213 29 92 , Ateities 91 (Mandarinas shopping centre),<br />
tel. 279 36 81. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Oxford Centre B-3, Trakų 5A, tel./fax 261 04 16,<br />
jolanta@humanitas.lt, www.humanitas.lt. The only place<br />
in town that can boast a choice of Kurt Vonnegut novels,<br />
also stocks EFL literature and can order just about anything<br />
that comes with an ISBN. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 15:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Prie Halės C-5, Pylimo 53, tel. 269 11 80, fax 262 45<br />
28, prie-hales@sviesa.lt, www.sviesa.lt. Everything from<br />
medicine, economics, law, history, travel guides, dictionaries,<br />
classical literature to cookery and children’s books. An<br />
excellent selection of fiction in English, at the lowest prices<br />
in town. Orders taken. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00<br />
- 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Rūdninkų Knyg ynas<br />
B-5, Rūdninkų 20, tel. 261 02<br />
66, rudninku.knygynas@gmail.com. A bookshop and music<br />
shop that also happens to be the best place in town to get<br />
English language magazines. Everything from MAD comics to<br />
cooking with some motorbikes and National Geographic in between.<br />
Load up before you hit the café scene. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JA<br />
Vaga G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. 249 83 92, fax 249 83 96,<br />
knygunamai@vaga.lt, www.vaga.lt. Recently renovated<br />
and one of the newest-looking bookshops in town. English<br />
language books are upstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. A<br />
Connoisseur shops<br />
Cognac Boutique C-4, Etmonų 4, tel. 263 99 64, info@<br />
cognac.lt, www.cognacboutique.lt. This boutique offers<br />
exclusive cognacs from such celebrated houses as Delamain,<br />
Frapin, Chateau de Beaulon, Jean Fillioux, Leopold Gourmel as<br />
well as spirits from other small and exclusive producers. Here<br />
you can also find such exclusive cognac brands as Hennessy,<br />
Camus and Remy Martin.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Gero vyno parduotuvė C-4/5, Subačiaus 2, tel./fax<br />
262 04 09, gvp.subaciaus@mv.lt, www.mv.lt. You<br />
can not only buy wine here, but also consult with experts<br />
(or argue with them if you think you know more than they<br />
do) and attend tastings. The range is not the best in<br />
town, but still quite impressive. Conveniently located in<br />
Old Town, so you won’t have to carry your bottles too far.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
JA<br />
<strong>In</strong> Vinotuvė A-3, Teatro 7-7, tel. 212 22 43, tuve@<br />
invino.lt, www.invino.lt. Vilnius’s favourite wine bar now<br />
has their very own plonk peddling shop. A worthwhile stop for<br />
those wanting to entertain at home. Or homeless people with<br />
empty brown paper bags and very refined palates.QOpen<br />
10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Skonis ir Kvapas B-3, Trakų 8, tel. 212 24 80, info@<br />
skonis-kvapas.lt, www.skonis-kvapas.lt. A small yet well<br />
chosen selection of fat Havana cigars, pipes, lighters, and<br />
miscellaneous smoking maintainence gear. Cough cough. Also<br />
at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. 248 70 82. Open 10:00-22:00.<br />
Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. 238 77 17. 10:00-22:00. Ukmergės 282,<br />
tel. 230 47 42. Open 11:00-22:00. Jogailos 4, tel. 269 00 05.<br />
Open 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00. Closed Sun. Mindaugo 11,<br />
tel. 265 24 37. IOpen 10:00-22:00. Žirmūnų 64. Open 10:00-<br />
22:00. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
JA<br />
Vyno Klubas (Wine Club) D-2, B.Radvilaitės 7/2 -1,<br />
tel. 231 38 12, info@vynoklubas.lt, www.vynoklubas.<br />
lt. The experts on wine, as well as selling the stuff they<br />
also organise tasting sessions. However, we’ve found the<br />
service here leaves a lot to be desired. Also at Savanorių<br />
22, tel. 213 84 69. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-18:00.<br />
Closed Sun. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Flowers & Plants<br />
Florisima A-3, J.Basanavičiaus 3, tel./fax 212 09 15,<br />
info@florisima.lt, www.florisima.lt. Also at Mindaugo 11<br />
(Maxima), tel. 260 34 94. Open 08:00-22:00. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Gėlės Studija B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel./fax 261 01<br />
66, info@gele.lt, www.gele.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. JA<br />
shoPPing<br />
Food & Drink<br />
Gourmet Studio G-4, J.Basanavičiaus 18, tel. 246 61<br />
24/+370 616 307 70, info@skonio-studija.lt. A spicy<br />
saviour for anyone after garam masala, wasabi or a bathtub<br />
full of gravy. While the range of spices they offer is by no means<br />
complete it is much better than in supermarkets. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
IKI G-3, J.Jasinskio 16, tel. 249 83 40, fax 249 83<br />
37, info@iki.lt, www.iki.lt. Lithuania’s first supermarket<br />
chain, and still sticking to their core values of quality and<br />
freshness. Notable for having top-notch in-house bakeries.<br />
Also at Žirmūnų 2, tel. 272 19 68. Sodų 22, tel. 233 91 61.<br />
Architektų 43/31, tel. 244 86 87. Fabijoniškių 2a, tel. 230 11<br />
99. Antakalnio 42, tel. 270 97 71. Antakalnio 73, tel. 234 71<br />
54. Didlaukio 80a, tel. 231 60 48, Viršuliškių 40, tel. 241 32<br />
00, P.Lukšio 34, tel 278 88 42, Sėlių 54, tel. 210 87 29, Parko<br />
34a, tel. 267 09 52, Šeškinės 32, 241 41 66, Žirmūnų 106,<br />
tel. 231 67 40, Kovo 11-osios 36b (Grigiškės), tel. 243 22 08,<br />
Jeruzalės 17, tel. 271 16 90, S.Stanevičiaus 23, tel. 240 77<br />
03. Buivydiškių 17, tel. 246 05 28. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.<br />
A<br />
Ikiukas D-3, Užupio 7, tel. 260 84 88, info@iki.lt, www.<br />
iki.lt. The ‘little IKI’ convenience stores are tucked into handy<br />
locations and always have edible treats on offer. Fresh-baked<br />
goods are a key attraction, as is the decent range of groceries.<br />
Also at Pylimo 21, tel. 231 34 03, Gabijos 83, tel. 247 00 53,<br />
Jogailos 12, 231 31 35. Kalvarijų 105, tel. 270 00 78, Rygos 41,<br />
tel. 230 50 34, A.Vivulskio 15, tel. 265 25 57. J.Franko g. 2a, tel.<br />
240 95 44. Kalvarijų 3, tel. 277 83 91. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />
JA<br />
Maxima G-4, Mindaugo 11, tel. 233 04 15, fax 233 74<br />
83, www.maxima.lt. The only big supermarket near Old<br />
Town, but somehow still managing to have a mediocre range<br />
of food mixed in among pots and pans, unfashionable clothes,<br />
and miscellaneous clutter. Come at 03:00 in the morning if<br />
you want to avoid queues. Q Open 24hrs. A<br />
Rimi C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. 260 88 51, www.rimi.lt. The<br />
Old Town location is known for having nothing you actually<br />
want, and making you queue for an hour to pay too much for<br />
it. The other locations are much better - almost like proper supermarkets.<br />
Also at Architektų 19, tel. 246 04 44, Antakalnio<br />
55/1, tel. 210 56 06. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. JA<br />
Gifts & Souvenirs<br />
Aukso Avis C-4, Savičiaus 10, tel. 261 04 21, auksoavis@<br />
iti.lt. Textile works of Lithuanian artists, expressing Lithuanian<br />
culture through a modern context. With the help of their staff,<br />
one can also make himself/herself a small souvenir from felt<br />
(as well as stabbing yourself in the fingertips a few times,<br />
if you’re not careful) for a symbolic price in just 15 minutes.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
JA<br />
Elementai C-3, Stiklių 14-1, tel. 260 85 88. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Exhibition Hall (Dailininkų Sąjungos Galerija) C-4,<br />
Vokiečių 2, tel. 261 95 16, info@galerija-lds.lt, www.<br />
galerija-lds.lt. Paintings, of course, and hand-decorated<br />
greetings cards, amber and modern ceramics. A great selection<br />
of art books in English too. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Linen & Amber Studio C-4, Stiklių 3, tel. 261 02 13,<br />
info@lgstudija.lt, www.lgstudija.lt. The best place to buy<br />
linen and amber. They have a great selection and the girls who<br />
work here are really helpful. Also at Stiklių 7, Didžioji 5, Didžioji 6,<br />
Didžioji 10, Didžioji 11, Pilies 7, Pilies 38, Aušros Vartų 12, Karaimų<br />
43-1, Trakai, tel. +370 528 554 00. Open 10:00-19:00. Closed<br />
Mon. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JA<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
shoPPing<br />
Lino namai C-3, Pilies 38, tel./fax 212 23 22, www.<br />
siulas.lt. Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available for<br />
just about any part of the body or home. One of the city’s top<br />
shops. Also at Universiteto 10, tel. 212 12 13. Open 10:00-<br />
19:00, Sat 10:00-16:00. Closed Sun. Vilniaus 12, tel 212 19<br />
21. Open 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-16:00.Closed Sun. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA<br />
Mini Pasaulis H-2, Konstitucijos 16a (VCUP), tel.<br />
210 17 54, info@minipasaulis.lt, www.minipasaulis.lt.<br />
Store for model railroads and model cars, airplanes. Wide<br />
range of scale models from major world manufacturers LGB,<br />
Fleischmann, Autoart, Minichamps, Franklin mint, CMC, Piko,<br />
Busch, Herpa, etc. Also features models of Soviet planes and<br />
cars. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Ona Tel. 212 42 63/+370 687 511 22, info@ona.com,<br />
www.ona.com. We normally wouldn’t bother listing an online<br />
store, but this one is quite simply outstanding. Give it a click<br />
and you’ll find art, household knick-knacks, jewellery, and more<br />
- much of it from Lithuanian artists. They can even take orders<br />
for personalised gifts. A great way to treat yourself, or keep<br />
favour with friends you’ve made while visiting Lithuania. A<br />
Sauluva C-3, Literatų 3, tel. 212 12 27, info@sauluva.lt,<br />
www.sauluva.lt. Great choice for souvenir and holiday shopping.<br />
This new store has two rooms: one for a very respectable<br />
collection of retail amber jewelry and another room for Lithuanian<br />
made handicrafts, mostly made of wood and glass. English is<br />
spoken in all stores. Also at Šv. Mykolo 4, tel. 212 16 96. Open<br />
10:00-19:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Sesutės B-2, Vokiečių 1, tel. 212 02 06, info@sesutes.<br />
lt, www.sesutes.lt. Here is a large selection of gilded frames<br />
for those old photos of your elders along with a fine choice<br />
of candles to burn around the newly framed photos of your<br />
parents. Knick-knacks reign supreme. Also at Konstitucijos<br />
7a (Europa), tel. 248 70 32, 248 70 00. Open 10:00-22:00.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
JA<br />
Verpstė B-4, Žydų 2, tel. 262 58 87, vilnius@lietuvostautodaile.lt.<br />
A small and cute gallery selling linen, wood<br />
sculptures, amber and paintings. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Household goods<br />
BMS Megapolis P.Lukšio 23, tel. 274 17 71,<br />
v3.megapolis@bms.lt, www.bms.lt. All manner of PC bits<br />
and bobs, complete with staff who know their business better<br />
than many. Also at Ukmergės 283, tel. 246 22 00. Open<br />
10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-17:00. Closed Sun. Laisvės 2, tel.<br />
247 73 00. Open 09:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-17:00. Closed<br />
Sun. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Ornamentum H-2, Konstitucijos 7a<br />
(Europa), tel./fax 248 70 65, info@<br />
ornamentum.lt, www.ornamentum.<br />
lt. Bits and pieces that will turn an<br />
empty box into a home. Franco-elegance,<br />
English cottage charm , etc. Also<br />
at Smolensko 10, tel. 215 94 72. Open 10:00-18:00, Sat<br />
10:00-15:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Senukai Ukmergės 244, tel. 252 52 55, fax 252 52 01,<br />
pic@senukai.lt, www.senukai.lt. A huge shopping centre<br />
with building materials, electrical equipment and miscellaneous<br />
household essentials. Also at P.Lukšio 34, tel. 252 52<br />
52. Open 07:30-21:30, Sat 07:30-20:00, Sun 09:00-17:00.<br />
Savanorių 182 a, tel. 243 33 33. Open 08:00-18:00, Sat<br />
08:00-14:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Sat 07:30<br />
- 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. A<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Jewellery<br />
Bareket H-3, Vasario 16-osios 16, tel. 212 30 87, fax<br />
261 82 14, info@bareket.lt, www.bareket.lt. Silver and<br />
gold melt together in fantastic medleys. If you are looking<br />
to propose, the Bareket people are also deep into the diamond<br />
business. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Dorė Jewellery D-3, Maironio 9, tel. 260 83 29/+370<br />
686 888 86, info@dore.lt, www.dore.lt. Offering everything<br />
from ‘subtle style’ to ‘bordering on bling’, and in a<br />
gorgeous little courtyard location within casual glancing<br />
distance of St. Anne’s Church. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA<br />
Jūratės Akmenėliai A-3, Pylimo 22a, tel./fax 262 02<br />
79, info@juratesakmeneliai.lt, www.juratesakmeneliai.lt.<br />
Why just buy jewellery when you can make your own? The concept<br />
here is all about importing a glittering array of beady things from<br />
all over the world and allowing you to string them together to make<br />
whatever you please. Brilliant! (If you like beads.) QOpen 10:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA<br />
Lithuanian designers<br />
Julija Žilėnienė C-3, Stiklių 7, tel./fax 231 06 09, julija.<br />
zileniene@iti.lt, www.jzileniene.lt. Applying a soft touch<br />
with stunning effect, Julija is the sort of designer who would like to<br />
get to know you before you get dressed. Not only can she design<br />
your personal wardrobe, but your whole house too. Clients include<br />
the President’s wife. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Closed for lunch from 13:00-14:00. JA<br />
Juozas Statkevičius Couture B-2, Odminių 11, tel.<br />
212 20 29, www.josefstatkus.com. Juozas Statkevičius<br />
(or just Josef Statku) is arguably the most prominent Lithuanian<br />
fashion designer. Most of his designs tend to offer<br />
elegance and femininity with a bit of a twist, but without<br />
nonsense impracticalities. Occasionally, however, he goes<br />
completely la-di-da bonkers and dresses models up in babies’<br />
bonnets while painting blood dribbling out of their mouths.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Closed for ‘lunch’ from 14:00-15:00. JA<br />
Lino kopos H-2, Krokuvos 6, tel. 275 12 00, info@<br />
linokopos.lt, www.linokopos.lt. The name mean ‘dunes of<br />
linen’, which sounds like a laundry nightmare, but is actually<br />
a fair reflection of the range and beauty of creations made<br />
exclusively from this versitle natural fibre, which Giedrius<br />
Šarkauskas has been working wonders with for five years.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
National Design and Fashion Gallery<br />
B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. +370 652 59 299,<br />
g9g@gedimino9.lt, www.gedimino9.lt.<br />
The top floor of the shopping centre is a top<br />
spot to flitter through racks of creations from<br />
various Lithuanian designers. There are also plenty of accessories<br />
and knick-knacks. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Ramunė Piekautaitė C-4, Didžioji 20, tel. 231 22 70,<br />
info@ramunepiekautaite.com, www.ramunepiekautaite.<br />
com. Put elegance and confidence in a blender, add a hint of<br />
‘daring’ or ‘fruity nonsense’ (depending on your point of view), and<br />
press the puree button. Or just pop along here to see the results,<br />
courtesy of another internationally successful local designer.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Sandros Salionas C-3, Stiklių 7, tel. 243 00 54, www.<br />
sandra.lt. Bright, colourful, zesty, cheeky and a little bit dotty<br />
without being honkingly mad - and now tucked away in a nice<br />
new little courtyard in Old Town. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Mon,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Sirena B-4, Mėsinių 9, tel. 212 66 01/+370 656 017<br />
64, sirena@sirena.lt, www.sirena.lt. Handmade handbags,<br />
leather belts, wallets, leather souvenirs with little Lithuanian<br />
symbols, dinky little key pouches and more. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Trinité Boutique C-3, Literatų 5, tel. 262 95 18, fax<br />
233 90 10, info@trinite.lt, www.trinite.lt. Fashion and<br />
accessories with a certain quirky local flavour - but nothing<br />
too out-there, unless you ask for it. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Mon. JA<br />
Vilniaus Modelių Namai C-2, B.Radvilaitės 3-1, tel.<br />
262 98 80, info@vmn.lt. Off-the-shelf locally designed and<br />
produced fashion ranging from sombre style to fun, frilly and<br />
flighty. There are also accessories which could make nice<br />
gifts. Most importantly, they design and produce bespoke<br />
beauty totally in-house, so you can go and bark and point<br />
while they doodle, cut and sew you into shape. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Zoraza C-3, Stiklių 6, tel. 212 00 84, zoraza@zoraza.<br />
com. Bags, boots, shoes, furry things, shiny things, florid<br />
frocks, and a glitzy upholstered toilet. The only thing we can<br />
find in common among all the creations tucked away in this<br />
bristling boutique, other than the fact that they have tumbled<br />
from the presumably chaotic cognitions of designer Daiva<br />
Urbonavičiūtė, is a certain wacky weirdness. Not for the<br />
straight-laced. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Photography<br />
Fotoservisas C-3, Pilies 23, tel. 212 23 27, www.fotoservisas.lt.<br />
Films and film development. Also at Gedimino 7, tel.<br />
212 77 71. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. 238 77 27. Open 09:00-22:00. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. JA<br />
Fototechnika H-3, Pamėnkalnio 15/6, tel. 262 28 50,<br />
info@fototechnika.lt, www.fototechnika.lt. New and second-hand<br />
cameras, including some great old Russian single<br />
lens and twin lens reflexes at good rates. Also an excellent<br />
selection of filmstock (including a wide range of 120-format<br />
films), lights, tripods, filters and everything else necessary<br />
for the serious photographer. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Kodak Express G-4, Savanorių 16, tel. 235 40 55,<br />
vilnius@valbora.lt. Notable for being the only reliable place in<br />
town to get 120-format film developed, they can also provide<br />
you with contact sheets and rush a film through in one hour.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A<br />
Shopping centres<br />
Akropolis G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1820, www.akropolis.lt. A<br />
big tin and concrete shed full of shops and the flocks that visit<br />
them. <strong>In</strong> case shopping isn’t your thing, you can try ice-skating,<br />
bowling, or see a film. There’s also a good range of restaurants,<br />
and a constant cacophonous argument between the cheap car<br />
alarms in the enormous car park. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Europa H-2, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. 248 70 70, info@<br />
europa.lt, www.europa.lt. Still feels shiny and new, and<br />
there are weird floating egg-shaped pod thingies that you can<br />
sit in and sip coffee, but as far as shopping centres go this<br />
one doesn’t have much to offer. There are not many shops.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Flagman A-1, Gedimino 16, tel. +370 698 306 62/263<br />
96 17, fax 212 00 28, nerijus@flagman.lt, www.flagman.lt.<br />
It’s a centre. With shops in. Original, eh? Notable only for its central<br />
location. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JA<br />
Gedimino 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. 262 97 64, fax 262 97<br />
74, adm@gedimino9.lt, www.gedimino9.lt. All glitzy and<br />
new with unusable escaltors that force you to walk around<br />
Markets<br />
shoPPing<br />
Flower Market G-4, Basanavičiaus 42. Open<br />
always and overflowing with flowers, bouquets, wreaths<br />
and other floral arrangements. Haggle over pricing. It’s<br />
expected. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Gariūnai Market 4km from Vilnius just off the<br />
Kaunas highway. 120ha of market madness, and a great<br />
place for cheap clothes and household items if you know how<br />
to spot quality.QOpen sunrise to lunchtime. Closed Mon.<br />
Halės Market C-5, Corner of Pylimo and Bazilijonų.<br />
The place to go for half a cow, a pig’s face, four hundred<br />
eggs, etc.Q Open sunrise to lunchtime. J<br />
Kalvarijų Market H-2, Kalvarijų 61. A mixture of<br />
clothes, food and wacky local characters, including pickpockets.Q<br />
Open sunrise to lunchtime. Closed Mon.<br />
Souvenir Market C-2/3, Pilies 23. If it’s made from<br />
amber, linen or wood you will find it here. This stretch<br />
of street has a formidable amount of things - most of<br />
which are not worth purchasing. Russian lacquer boxes<br />
and alleged rabbit fur KGB hats can also be found here.<br />
<strong>In</strong> front of the Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva there is<br />
a collection of artists selling their watercolours and oils.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. J<br />
in circles looking at fashion and footwear shops. There is<br />
also a National Fashion & Design Gallery on the top floor<br />
- if you can get that far. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00<br />
- 18:00. PJA<br />
Helios City G-4, Savanorių 1, helioscity@helios.lt,<br />
www.helioscity.lt. Restaurants, cafés, and a smattering of<br />
boutiques and services. All bright and sparkly and a bit spacestation.<br />
The bread factory over the road ensures it smells<br />
nice. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
VCUP (Vilniaus centrinė universalinė parduotuvė)<br />
H-2, Konstitucijos 16, tel. 273 04 69, fax 272 38 19,<br />
centras@vcup.lt, www.vcup.lt. The bottom couple of floors<br />
of an office building are pretending to be a shopping centre.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PA<br />
Tea, coffee & Chocolate<br />
Šokolado Namai B-3, Trakų 13, tel. 212 14 23, info@<br />
chocolade.lt, www.chocolade.lt. Sweet treats that start<br />
and end with layers of chocolate. Dinky little gift boxes are<br />
available in case you have to apologize to someone, or<br />
suck-up to colleagues or... QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun<br />
11:00 - 18:00. JA<br />
AJ Šokoladas G-3, Gedimino 46, tel. 249 71 22/+370<br />
655 140 55, www.ajsokoladas.lt. Delicious chocolates,<br />
even sexier than Johnny Depp in Chocolat, and sold by the<br />
gram. Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. +370 699 616<br />
41. Open 10:00-22:00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun<br />
10:00 - 18:00. JA<br />
Gurman’s House of Taste C-2, Pilies 6/2, tel. 210 71<br />
73, www.kavinukas.lt. This is the place with the tea pots<br />
stuck to the outside walls. Most people just stop to take a<br />
photo, but if you pop inside you’ll discover more kinds of coffee<br />
and tea than you could poke an outstretched pinkie finger at.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA<br />
Kavinukė D’ORO C-3, Bokšto 1, tel. 261 08 30, sigis@<br />
doro.lt, www.doro.lt. You can buy fancy-pants beans here.<br />
QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:00<br />
- 21:00. JA<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
liFestyle direCtory<br />
Barbers & Salons<br />
Beauty <strong>In</strong>stitute B-3, Vokiečių 28/17, tel. 262 91 87,<br />
guinot@sugihara.lt, www.sugihara.lt. Also at A.Stulginskio<br />
5, tel. 260 84 48. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Figaro B-4, Vokiečių 14, tel. 262 12 12, figaro@figaro.lt,<br />
www.figaro.lt. Chopping locks here there and everywhere. Also<br />
at Gedimino 9, tel. 212 06 91. Open 10:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-<br />
18:00. Gedimino 54, tel. 249 74 24. Open Mon-Fri 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00-16:00. Closed Sun. Stanevičiaus 23, tel. 240 78 21.<br />
Open 09:00 -20:00, Sat 09:00 -17:00. Closed Sun. Konstitucijos<br />
7a, tel. 248 70 78. Open 10:00 - 22:00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Franko C-3, Pilies 23, tel. 262 00 82, frankosalonas@<br />
yahoo.com. Get a sprucing-up in this comfortable salon<br />
right on Pilies. The bright-eyed, English-speaking staff will<br />
make your hair swell with style.QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun, and Jan 1-21. JA<br />
Gatineau B-2, Totorių 19, tel. 261 83 64/+370 675<br />
444 48, fax 270 02 61, salonas@gmail.com, www.<br />
groziopaslaugos.lt. A very pleasant hairdressing, manicure,<br />
pedicure, make-up, massage, cosmetology salon with early<br />
hours and smiling English- and Italian-speaking staff. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Salon+ G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 249 29 09, akropolis@salonplus.<br />
lt, www.salonplus.lt. Bright zesty salons that can clip, frizz,<br />
colour or style, and leave you feeling all shiny and new. Also at<br />
Ateities 91 (Mandarinas shopping centre), tel. 279 39 65, open<br />
10:00 - 21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA<br />
Toni & Guy C-3, Didžioji 8-19, tel. 260 96 09, salonas@toniandguy.lt,<br />
www.toniandguy.com. The hair chain with, arguably,<br />
the sharpest scissors. Now in Vilnius. QOpen 09:30 - 20:30, Fri<br />
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Vis Unita B-2, Odminių 11, tel. 210 70 55/+370 611<br />
496 27, fax 210 70 56, visunita@visunita.lt, www.<br />
visunita.lt. Pampering from top to ... pedicure, including<br />
hairdressing, manicure and cosmetology. Also located on<br />
the first floor of the Reval Hotel Lietuva. (H-2, Konstitucijos<br />
20), tel. 231 49 11. Open 08:00-21:00, Sat 08:00-19:00.<br />
Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Dress hire<br />
Kino Studija Nemenčinės plentas 4, tel. 276 34<br />
17/+370 684 744 49, www.kinostudija.lt. Vilnius’ film<br />
studios in Antakalnis can rent you anything they have in<br />
stock from their wide range of silly costumes. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 16:30, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Užupio Salonas D-3, Užupio 1, tel. 215 36 14. Besides<br />
the rental of formal wear you can get prepped for a big event by<br />
first having a massage here. Flowers available too. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Dry cleaners & Launderettes<br />
Joglė G-3, Jasinskio 16 (entrance from Goštauto), tel.<br />
264 91 64/(8-800) 600 00, info@jogle.lt, www.jogle.lt.<br />
Also at Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), tel. +370 620 111 33. Open<br />
09:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00. Ozo 25 (Akropolis),<br />
tel. +370 620 111 44. Open 10:00-22:00. Konstitucijos 7a<br />
(Europa), tel. 248 70 39. Open 10:00-22:00. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Skalbiu Sau Darbininkų 21, tel. 216 46 89/+370 673 005<br />
25, www.skalbiusau.lt. This is a convenient drop-off and pickup<br />
point for laundrettes that are located out of the centre of town.<br />
Take bus 1 or 2, microbus 15, 20 or 23, or trolleybus 10 or 17<br />
toward the airport (Oro Uostas) and get off at the Naujininkai stop<br />
(near the ‘Maxima’ store). You can also call the mobile number<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
to arrange pick-up and delivery to your home, office or hotel. If<br />
you really want to go and sit in your undies while you watch your<br />
brand-name jeans being washed, you’ll have to haul your ass to:<br />
Stanevičiaus 44, tel. 247 04 00. Open 10:00-20:00, Tue 10:00-<br />
21:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sun. Take bus 40 or<br />
53 or microbus 2 or 20 in the direction of Fabijoniškės and get<br />
off at the Stanevičiaus stop; Šeškinės 26, tel. 233 94 40. Open<br />
10:00-20:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Take bus 2 or microbus 4 in the direction of Šeškinė until they<br />
kick you out at the end of the line. Saulėtekio 41, tel. 269 60 98.<br />
Open 15:00-21:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. Closed Wed, Fri, Sun. We<br />
suggest going to the website and printing out maps before you<br />
set off in case you need to ask for directions. QOpen 09:30<br />
- 19:30, Mon, Fri 15:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00, Sun 10:00<br />
- 15:00. Closed Wed.<br />
Home entertainment<br />
DVDOnline.lt Tel. 241 02 83, www.dvdonline.lt. Mailbased<br />
DVD rental service. Pay a monthly fee, fill-in a wish-list<br />
online, and the DVD will arrive in your mailbox with a post-itback<br />
envelope. You can do the whole thing without meeting<br />
anyone. Ideal for shy types and albinos.<br />
Eliksyras D-3, Šv. Mykolo 12-8, tel. 261 64 03, www.<br />
eliksyras.lt. A baffling array of videos and an interesting little<br />
man who somehow magically knows what you’re going to like.<br />
Not much English spoken. Also at Domaševičiaus 3, tel. 260<br />
90 21. Open 12:00-23:00. QOpen 15:00 - 22:00. J<br />
Videoline G-4, Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), tel. 260 34 87,<br />
mindaugo11@gpi.lt, www.videoline.lt. A short uphill walk<br />
from Old Town, but conveniently located above a supermarket<br />
when you can stock up on movie-watching snacks. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 21:00.<br />
Videoplanet B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. 260 91 30. The most<br />
central place to grab a vid. Foreigners and visitors can rent movies<br />
if they flash their passport, drivers’ licence or some other form of<br />
ID with an address. 5Lt for DVDs, 6Lt for new releases. Return by<br />
21:00 next day. <strong>Your</strong> membership card also works at the location<br />
near the Coca-Cola Plaza, which can be handy. Also at Savanorių<br />
7.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational schools<br />
American <strong>In</strong>ternational School of Vilnius J-4, Subačiaus<br />
41, tel. 212 10 31, fax 264 72 02, office@aisvilnius.lt, www.<br />
aisv.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
French <strong>In</strong>ternational School Žirmūnų 108, tel. 276 91<br />
32/+370 650 991 69, apeefv@takas.lt, www.efv.lt. Also<br />
at Višinskio 23. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong>ternational School Turniškių 21, tel. 276<br />
15 64/+370 698 862 18, admin@vischool.lt, www.<br />
vischool.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong>terpreters<br />
Litinterp D-2, Bernardinų 9-4, tel. 212 29 24, fax 212<br />
33 59, vertimai@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.lt. <strong>In</strong>terpreters<br />
and translators. Reliable and quick service. Legal documents,<br />
notarisation upon request. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30<br />
- 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Skrivanek H-2, Konstitucijos 15-24, tel. 212 16 40/+370<br />
655 219 19, fax 260 95 51, info@skrivanek.lt, www.<br />
skrivanek.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Keys cut<br />
Raktinė D-2, B.Radvilaitės 7, tel. 212 65 65/+370 698<br />
334 13, info@raktine.lt, www.raktine.lt. Also at Pylimo<br />
49, tel. 212 72 91. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Language courses<br />
EF English First I-3, T.Kosciuškos 11, tel. 279 16<br />
16/(8-800) 216 16, vilnius@ef.lt, www.ef.lt. Also at<br />
Žalgirio 92, tel. 205 12 27, 205 12 28. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00,<br />
Fri 06:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
French Cultural Centre C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. 231 29 85, fax<br />
231 29 87, cours@centrefrancais.lt, www.centrefrancais.<br />
lt. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Language Services G-3, Lukiškių 5-115,<br />
tel. 262 54 06, fax 262 54 19, info@ilsvilnius.lt, www.<br />
ilsvilnius.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Italian Cultural <strong>In</strong>stitute C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. 261<br />
10 76, fax 261 64 90, iicvilnius@esteri.it, www.iicvilnius.esteri.it.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Jaunimo Perspektyva A-2, Vilniaus 39, tel. 234 09<br />
53/+370 687 494 22, vytautas.grivickas@ff.vu.lt, www.<br />
ltmrs.lt/jp. Various levels of Lithuanian language instruction<br />
on an individual or group basis. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. J<br />
Libraries<br />
American Center Library B-4, Akmenų 7, tel. 266 53<br />
00, fax 266 53 10, WebMailVilnius@state.gov, www.<br />
vilnius.usembassy.gov. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. J<br />
British Council Library A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. 264 48<br />
90, fax 264 48 93, mail@britishcouncil.lt, www.britishcouncil.lt.<br />
Books, CDs, videos (and DVDs), magazines<br />
and free internet access. This centre will close at the end of<br />
2007 and is not accepting new members. So, unless you’re<br />
an existing member, you can’t borrow stuff. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
CAC <strong>In</strong>fo Lab (ŠMC <strong>In</strong>fo Lab’as) C-4, Vokiečių 2,<br />
Contemporary Art Centre, tel. 212 19 45, fax 262 39<br />
54, info@cac.lt, www.cac.lt. The archives of information<br />
on contemporary art. Dynamic library with an extensive collection<br />
of exhibitions catalogues, theoretical books, periodicals,<br />
videotapes, CDs. QOpen 12:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. J<br />
French Cultural Centre C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. 231 29<br />
85, fax 231 29 87, biblio@centrefrancais.lt, www.<br />
centrefrancais.lt. Pick up your copy of Hugo in French, a<br />
how-to-learn French book, children’s books in French, posters,<br />
art books and the possibility to subscribe to over 2,000<br />
French magazines. QOpen 13:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. J<br />
Martynas Mažvydas Lithuanian National Library<br />
(Nacionalinė Martyno Mažvydo biblioteka) G-3,<br />
Gedimino 51, tel. 249 70 23/249 70 28, fax 249 61<br />
29, biblio@lnb.lt, www.lnb.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Nordic <strong>In</strong>formation Office Library D-3, Didžioji 5,<br />
tel. 212 20 21, fax 212 24 23, info@norden.lt, www.<br />
norden.lt. Offers Nordic books, newspapers, videos and CDs.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun. J<br />
Massage<br />
Ayurvedic Centre Shanti D-5, Subačiaus 17, tel.<br />
+370 606 755 57, info@ajurveda.lt, www.ajurveda.<br />
lt. Rejuvenation, relaxation and cleansing treatments.<br />
Panchakarma, ayurvedic massage, cosmetology and sauna.<br />
Consultations in English. Gift certificates and massage<br />
courses available. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. J<br />
East Island C-4, Didžioji 40/Šv. Kazimiero 2, tel.<br />
212 55 99/+370 606 639 99, info@east-island.<br />
lt, www.east-island.lt. A centrally located oriental<br />
SPA. All types of massage and peeling are offered here.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. J<br />
Home of Massage B-2, Labdarių 5, tel. 262 70<br />
liFestyle direCtory<br />
69/+370 699 997 72, borisas@takas.lt, www.masazonamai.lt.<br />
English speaking masseur Gintas performs no<br />
frills relaxation massage as well as more complex procedures.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Mabre Beauty Centre D-3, Maironio 13, tel. 231 30<br />
83. Highly professional and skillful beauty specialists. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Nuad Thai C-4, Didžioji 20/Savičiaus 1, tel. 212 55<br />
33/+370 699 92 333, www.nuadthai.lt. Thai massage<br />
options from top to toe. They even cater for babies and pregnant<br />
women. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
News agencies<br />
BNS A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. 205 85 01, fax 205 85 04,<br />
prenumerata@bns.lt, www.bns.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Reuters B-2, Odminių 8, tel. 266 13 70, fax 212 35<br />
18, www.reuters.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. J<br />
For kids<br />
Hey kids! How do you keep those pesky parents amused<br />
and out of your hair during the long, cold Vilnius winter?<br />
Here’s our hand-picked <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> suggestions for<br />
things you can do in and around Vilnius to keep your<br />
parents out of trouble and somewhat sane:<br />
Splash out<br />
The Vichy Aqua Park (see page 69) has oodles of<br />
splishy-splashy fun for parents in the form of pools and<br />
waterslides. There are even things like saunas and pool<br />
bars which, while they may not do much for you, are great<br />
for keeping parents quiet for a few precious moments.<br />
Oh – and while the groan-ups are busy complaining<br />
about the queues for food or worrying about how big<br />
their bum looks in the bathing suit, you can admire the<br />
architectural splendour of the special ‘kids’ play area’<br />
(21st-century renaissance-plastic, in case you’re taking<br />
notes). There’s even a special executive suite (they call<br />
it a ‘crèche’ for some reason) that you can book yourself<br />
into for some well-earned and well-guarded rest while<br />
your parents run amok.<br />
We also recommend the Lazdynų Laisvalaikio Centras<br />
(also on page 69) and Forum Sports Club (page 69).<br />
Children who haven’t been born yet can take their mothers<br />
there for aerobics.<br />
Skating<br />
<strong>Your</strong> ‘blades’ may be packed away, but you can still skate.<br />
See the Snow & Ice listings on page 95 for ice-skating<br />
rinks where you can zoom about while your parents<br />
wobble and fall over.<br />
Be an angel<br />
Take your parents to Sereikiškių Park (D-2), lie in the<br />
snow, wave your arms and legs back and forth, and make<br />
a shape like an angel. Parents love to take photographs<br />
of such antics.<br />
Lėlė Puppet Theatre<br />
This is fun. Just when you think it’s all Jim-Henson cuddly<br />
and fluffly, they whip out a puppet that looks like a deformed<br />
Mr. Potato Head and all the old people get scared.<br />
Morning and afternoon shows are available, so grandparents<br />
can go before their bedtime. See page 13..<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
liFestyle direCtory<br />
Newspapers & Magazines<br />
City Paper Mere pst 20, Tallinn, Estonia, tel. +372<br />
655 50 95, fax +372 655 50 96, citypaper@citypaper.ee,<br />
www.balticsworldwide.com. English language<br />
editorial/listings glossy focusing on the three<br />
Baltic capitals.<br />
Lietuvos Rytas B-2, Gedimino 12a, tel. 274 36 00,<br />
fax 274 37 00, daily@lrytas.lt, www.lrytas.lt. The most<br />
popular daily newspaper in Lithuania (in Lithuanian). J<br />
Lithuanian Business Review B-3, Vokiečių 28/17-35,<br />
tel. 210 13 79, fax 210 13 80, lbr@neolitas.lt. This monthly<br />
English-language publication packed with useful business information<br />
is a good place to start. Copies can be found in some of the<br />
larger bookshops in Vilnius, or you can subscribe online at www.<br />
neolitas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
The Baltic Times B-5, Raugyklos 15-302, tel./fax 212<br />
15 45, www.baltictimes.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Verslo Žinios (weekly business news summaries<br />
in English) G-3, Jasinskio 16a, tel. 252 63 00, fax 252<br />
63 13, info@vzinios.lt, www.vz.lt. Features weekly news<br />
summaries in English.<br />
Repair services<br />
Avalynės Taisykla (Shoes) B-4, Labdarių 1, tel. 262<br />
88 63. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Spa<br />
Idzumi I-2, Sporto 12, tel. 247 24 70/+370 652 888<br />
54, fax 272 81 82, info@idzumi.lt, www.idzumi.lt. An<br />
Asian atmosphere permeates and soothes, as do all the<br />
treatments and services including spa, sauna, massage,<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
cosmetics, solarium and more. It’s a fresh approach which<br />
will leave you feeling very alive and refreshed. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. AD<br />
Le Méridien Villon Fitness Club & Spa Vilnius-Riga<br />
A2 highway 19km, tel. 273 97 77, fax 273 97 30, spa@<br />
lemeridien.lt, www.lemeridien.lt. Aerobics, gym, jacuzzi,<br />
Turkish and Finnish saunas, huge swimming pool, spa, beauty<br />
salon, Swedish, full body and underwater massage, solarium,<br />
hydrotherapy, aroma spa, treatment consultations. The<br />
beauty team take care of cellulite, and will firm, refresh, massage<br />
your body. QOpen 06:45 - 22:30. TAFDC<br />
Sothys Spa Centre B-5, Pylimo 45/1, tel. 262 27<br />
77/262 28 88, grozis@sothys.lt, www.sothys.lt. Turkish<br />
baths, Dead Sea water baths, and all manner of ways to bathe<br />
yoruself in unparalleled pampering and luxury. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. JAC<br />
Tattoos & Piercing<br />
Angis C-3, Literatų 4, tel. +370 689 165 94, angistattoo@gmail.com,<br />
www.angistattoo.lt. <strong>In</strong>k wielding artists<br />
who speak English, Russian, French and Spanish. Half an<br />
hour of scratching costs 150Lt. Minimum charge 100Lt. They<br />
refused to tattoo our eyeballs, but didn’t refuse a client who<br />
requested a tattoo in a place normally only seen by proctologists<br />
and customs officers. That would have hurt. They also<br />
do piercing. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Drakono Ženklas (Sign of the Dragon) B-3, Vilniaus<br />
45-7, tel. 261 40 64, fax 245 66 65, info@tattoo.lt,<br />
www.tattoo.lt. Prices start from around 80Lt, but changing<br />
the name of a former lover into an anchor and chain usually<br />
involves a bit of work and costs more. Especially if you’re trying<br />
to remove a Lithuanian surname. Piercing is offered, but<br />
they won’t touch your naughty bits. Unless you’re very sexy.<br />
They have previously refused to tattoo tongues, but did once<br />
tattoo someone’s foot. They limped home. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Modus A-6, Kauno 6, tel./fax 233 42 38, info@modus.<br />
lt, www.modus.lt. A little out of the centre but worth it<br />
because they only charge 80Lt to change ‘Asta’ to ‘Pasta’.<br />
They claim they will tattoo anything anywhere for the right<br />
price, so take your granny along and give them a challenge.<br />
They have previously slapped tatts on little toes and bald<br />
heads. They also do piercing. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Paradizė B-2, Totorių 15, tel. 261 41 20, info2@<br />
paradize.lt, www.paradize.lt. For 50-150Lt you can get<br />
a matchbox, or any similarly sized design, tattooed almost<br />
anywhere. (There are body parts that they won’t fill with ink,<br />
but they wouldn’t tell us which ones.) Somewhat worryingly,<br />
they couldn’t remember the strangest tattoo they’ve ever<br />
been asked to do. They will also poke holes in you. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Television<br />
C Gates H-3, Gedimino 28/2, tel. 210 75 75, info@<br />
cgates.lt, www.cgates.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00<br />
- 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun.<br />
Lithuanian TV (Lietuvos TV) F-4, Konarskio 49, tel.<br />
236 32 09, fax 236 32 08, lrt@lrt.lt, www.lrt.lt. The national<br />
television station. Sensible, family-friendly, etc.QOpen<br />
08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
LNK TV Šeškinės 20, tel. 243 10 58/+370 680 601<br />
88, fax 243 10 54, info@lnk.lt, www.lnk.lt. Home of<br />
dimwit celebrities and inane ‘reality’ television garbage.<br />
Singing and ice-skates a speciality.QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
TV3 Nemenčinės 4, tel. 231 61 31, fax 276 42 53, biuras@<br />
tv3.lt, www.tv3.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Action & Adventure<br />
Active Holidays J.Galvydžio 3-110, tel. +370 698 247<br />
95, vilnius@activeholidays.lt, www.activeholidays.lt.<br />
These guys will take the hassle out of arranging all manner of<br />
activities that involve jumping, flying, floating, driving, diving,<br />
shooting, eating, drinking or just relaxing. If they can’t arrange<br />
it, you probably shouldn’t do it anyway. They also organize<br />
stag dos - but we won’t tell anyone if you don’t.<br />
Force One Tel. +370 611 274 27, info@forceone.lt,<br />
www.forceone.lt. Extreme, outdoorsy and team-building<br />
type activities. Mostly caters to corporate clients.<br />
Lokės Pėda / Motosafari Lokėnėliai village, Jonava<br />
region, tel. +370 699 211 44, fax +370 349 529 25,<br />
info@lokespeda.lt, www.lokespeda.lt. Test your courage,<br />
balance, agility and fitness with various levels of tree-top challenges<br />
formed from high-wires, wobbly bridges, dangling Tarzan<br />
ropes and zip-wires. Or throw your leg over a four-wheel motorbike<br />
for a wild ride through lovely Lithuanian nature. A great day<br />
out. Take a bus to Kaunas, and then another to Jonava and get<br />
a taxi from there for around 10Lt. By car, take the A2 toward<br />
Riga and turn off on the A6 to pass through Ukmergė and then<br />
on to Jonava. A big sign will ensure you don’t miss it.<br />
Oreivystės centras Motorų 6, tel. 273 27 03/+370 652<br />
005 10, fax 273 27 02, info@oreivystescentras.lt, www.<br />
oreivystescentras.lt. Balloons, full of hot air, as well as other<br />
off-the-ground antics. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Pramogų Pasaulis G-3, J.Jasinskio 14, tel. 249 72<br />
32/+370 676 111 31, info@enjoylithuania.com, www.<br />
enjoylithuania.com. Everything from paintball to pub crawls.<br />
Although not at the same time.<br />
Promokartas Plytinės 27, tel./fax 243 83 90, tel. +370<br />
699 567 04, info@kartodromas.lt, www.kartodromas.lt.<br />
This go-kart track offers speed, mayhem, danger, so it’s just like<br />
the rest of Lithuania’s road network, but with smaller cars and<br />
more fun. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.<br />
Vilniaus Dariaus ir Girėno Aeroklubas (Skydiving)<br />
Lakūnų 1, Kyviškės,Vilnius region, tel. 232 57 18/+370<br />
686 671 76, info@dropzone.lt. Get chucked out of a Russian<br />
AN-2 biplane at altitudes of up to 2,500m.<br />
Vilniaus Oreivių Asociacija Krokuvos 11-29, tel.<br />
+370 676 000 50/+370 620 225 33, info@oreivis.lt,<br />
www.oreivis.lt. A friendly and professional bunch to float<br />
over Vilnius with. They even offer a fun ‘first flight’ celebration<br />
after touchdown.<br />
Fitness & Gyms<br />
Forum Sports Club G-2, Konstitucijos 26, tel. 210 31<br />
49/263 66 66, fax 210 31 33, info@forumpalace.lt,<br />
www.forumpalace.lt. Gym, aerobics, 25m pool, saunas,<br />
modern equipment and the option of a personal trainer to<br />
shout at you while you use it. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sat,<br />
Sun 08:00 - 22:00. AFDC<br />
Impuls Plus Kareivių 14, tel. 247 77 44/247 77 66,<br />
info@impuls.lt, www.impuls.lt. Strength and cardiovascular<br />
workout gear, aerobics, sauna, spa, pool and waterslide. Also<br />
at L.Asanavičiūtės 15, tel. 216 99 49; Ozo 41, tel. 240 09 60;<br />
Savanorių 28, tel. 260 37 57; Fabijoniškių 97a, tel. 273 60 90.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00ADC<br />
Racket Sports<br />
Ping Pong Table Tennis G-3, Jasinskio 6, tel. 212 66<br />
22. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
Teniso Pasaulis E-1, Ąžuolyno 5, tel. +370 655 040<br />
50, fax 246 08 36, tenisas@tenisopasaulis.lt, www.<br />
tenisopasaulis.lt. 30-95Lt/hour depending on when you<br />
want to play. Kids can play twice a week for 180Lt/month.<br />
QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. A<br />
ACtivities & sPorts<br />
Saunas<br />
City Park B-2, L.Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 3, tel. 212 35 15,<br />
fax 210 74 60, citypark@citypark.lt, www.citypark.lt.<br />
The hotel has a little spa centre tucked away in a neighbouring<br />
building that offers a subtle beachy feel (they’ve scattered<br />
some shells about) and is ideal for small groups who want to<br />
sit in a box full of steam, a pool full of crystal clear water or a<br />
bowl full of bubbles. JA<br />
Narutis C-3, Pilies 24, tel. 212 28 94, fax 262 28 82, info@<br />
narutis.com, www.narutis.com. There’s a sauna, steam room<br />
and a modest pool with spa bath. And a nice little fountain. A hidden<br />
treat on the main tourist promenade of Old Town. JA<br />
Radisson SAS Astorija C-4, Didžioji 35/2, tel. 212<br />
01 10, fax 212 17 62, sales.vilnius@radissonsas.com,<br />
www.vilnius.radissonsas.com. A vast(ish) and gleaming<br />
facility tucked away under one of the city’s finest hotels.<br />
Sauna, pool, spa bath and some fitness kit are all present.<br />
You can watch people swimming while you’re on the treadmill.<br />
And then join them. JA<br />
Snow & Ice<br />
Akropolis Ice (Akropolio Ledas) G-1, Ozo 25, tel. +370<br />
659 919 74, www.akropolis.lt. It’s skating in a shopping centre,<br />
and it’s cooler than it sounds. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
Ice Palace (Ledo Rūmai) E-1, Ąžuolyno 5, tel. 242<br />
44 44, fax 242 44 00, versenta@ledorumai.lt, www.<br />
ledorumai.lt. Vilnius’s ‘proper’ skating rink, capable of<br />
hosting 400 skaters (provided most of them stay vertical).<br />
You can also go to watch the fights and see a hockey game<br />
break out. Skating sessions start at 18:00, 20:00, 22:00<br />
(weekdays) and from 08:00 till 22:00 every two hours on<br />
weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30.<br />
Social Sports<br />
Hash House Harriers Tel. +370 685 212 43, vilniushhh@gmail.com,<br />
www.vilniushhh.blogspot.com. Run<br />
(or walk) around for a bit, then drink and chat.<br />
Swimming & Water Sports<br />
Lazdynų Laisvalaikio Centras Erfurto 13, tel. 216 90<br />
41/216 90 30, info@lazdynubaseinas.lt, www.lazdynubaseinas.lt.<br />
An Olympic sized pool with sauna but without<br />
swish facilities, membership requirements, or high prices.<br />
A bit decrepit and full of uncouth human flotsam (including<br />
our Editor, sometimes) but a good no-nonsense option for<br />
people who are more interested in swimming than posing<br />
or perving. Take bus 21 from the Reformatų Square (A-3) for<br />
the half-hour trip to ‘Lazdynėliai’, which will be the 15th and<br />
last stop. 10-15Lt in a taxi from Old Town. 16Lt for 60mins<br />
swimming. Will be closed for holiday until the first weekend<br />
of September. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Lietuvos Vaikų ir Jaunimo Centras (Children’s and<br />
Youth Centre) G-2, Konstitucijos 25, tel. 273 33 33, fax<br />
272 56 51, info@lvjc.lt, www.lvjc.lt. The pool is only 25m long<br />
but it is as clean as a whistle and, despite being in this child and<br />
youth centre, not just for kiddies. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00.<br />
Vichy Aquapark Ozo 14c, tel. 211 11 12. A big explosion<br />
of aquatic fun with a pleasantly up-lifting Polynesian<br />
theme throughout. There are dizzying water slides, a pretend<br />
beach with real waves, oodles of pools of various types (one<br />
with a bar) and all sorts of saunas and spa baths. All this<br />
splashy extravagance will set you back 69Lt for four hours<br />
on a weekend. Bus 53 will take you there from the corner of<br />
Gedimino and Vilniaus (B-1). Get off at the Pramogų Arena<br />
stop. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
TEBKDC<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
0 heAlth<br />
According to a recent study, Lithuania has the worst health<br />
care system in the EU. We often hear stories of locals who<br />
have to put up with dodgy doctors and surgeons without<br />
scruples who are highly skilled in performing bribectomies.<br />
Excellent medical care is available here for a price that,<br />
while out of reach to many locals, is still reasonable for<br />
visitors from the west. Not surprisingly, health tourism is<br />
a growing industry with many visitors turning up not just<br />
for a holiday, but for some high-quality dental tinkering, or<br />
even a whole new hip to take home along with their amber<br />
trinkets and local linen. The standard of facilities can vary<br />
here – you get what you pay for.<br />
AIDS<br />
Lithuanian AIDS Centre G-5, Kauno 37/59, tel./fax<br />
233 01 11, tel. (8-800) 011 11, www.aids.lt. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Hospitals<br />
Vilnius University Emergency Hospital (Vilniaus<br />
Greitosios Pagalbos Universitetinė Ligoninė)<br />
Šiltnamių 29, tel. 216 90 69, fax 216 89 84, vgpul@<br />
vlk.lt, www.vgpul.lt.<br />
Medical services<br />
Baltic-American Medical & Surgical Clinic<br />
Nemenčinės 54a, tel. 234 20 20/+370 698 526 55,<br />
fax 276 79 42, info@bak.lt, www.bak.lt. Highly recommended<br />
modern professional health care and diagnostics.<br />
Q Open 24hrs. A<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Beauty Therapy and Surgery Clinic E-1, Č.Sugiharos<br />
3, tel. 270 57 10, info@sugihara.lt, www.sugihara.lt. A<br />
highly trained team of consulting doctors will come to the<br />
rescue if your beauty is, erm... slipping away. You can also<br />
indulge yourself with a massage or various other forms of<br />
pampering. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Fertility Centre C-2, Maironio 25, tel./fax 261 42 26,<br />
tel. +370 687 806 05, vaisingumocentras@gmail.com,<br />
www.fertility.lt. Highly recommended modern fertility treatments.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA<br />
Fertility Clinic Laisvės 64a, tel. 239 05 95/+370 656<br />
444 40, info@vaisingumas.lt, www.vaisingumas.lt. Fullservice<br />
gynaecologist. Fertility treatments, obstetrics and<br />
modern therapies for menopause. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Heart Surgery Centre (Širdies Chirurgijos Centras)<br />
Laisvės 64a, tel. 239 05 00/239 05 01, fax 239 05 02,<br />
info@kardiolita.lt, www.kardiolita.lt. High-tech heart surgery<br />
centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Med General Private Clinic B-2, Gedimino 1a-19, 2nd<br />
floor, tel. 261 35 34/+370 684 331 00, medgen@takas.<br />
lt, www.clinic.lt. City centre-based Australian doctor, UN<br />
and embassy affiliated. High standard of family and personal<br />
care. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA<br />
Medical Diagnostic Centre (Medicinos diagnostikos<br />
centras) J-1, V.Grybo 32/10, tel. 270 91 20/+370 698 000<br />
00, fax 270 91 27, mdc@medcentras.lt, www.medcentras.<br />
lt. Consultation, diagnosis and treatment of different diseases in<br />
both adults and children. 24-hour urgent surgery services. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Northway Medical Center I-1, S.Žukausko 19, tel.<br />
264 44 66/264 44 63, fax 264 44 67, klauskite@nmc.lt,<br />
www.nmc.lt. General practitioners and specialists in cardiol-
ogy, gynaecology, otorhinolaryngology (ear, nose and<br />
throat, in case you’re wondering) and more. There are also<br />
rehabilitation, health and beauty centre services. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A<br />
Skin and Laser Surgery Center G-4, Z.Sierakausko 36,<br />
tel. 264 73 04, fax 264 73 05, lasers@centras.lt, www.lazerinechirurgija.lt.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Šeimos Medicinos Centras (Family Medical Centre)<br />
A-3, Pylimo 9, tel. 260 86 84, fax 262 36 53, info@<br />
seimosgydytojas.lt, www.seimosgydytojas.lt. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Opticians<br />
Rega C-3, Pilies 32, tel. 262 00 73/+370 606 054 20,<br />
piliesoptika@rega.lt, www.rega.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Vision Express B-4, Vokiečių 13, tel. 262 26 69, fax<br />
212 19 87, vilnius.vokieciu@visionexpress.lt. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Pharmacies<br />
Gedimino Vaistinė H-3, Gedimino 27, tel. 261 01 35,<br />
fax 268 55 59, gedimino.vaistine@takas.lt. Round-theclock<br />
pharmacy, but only vital essentials available at night.<br />
Q Open 24hrs. JA<br />
Operos Vaistinė A-1, A.Vienuolio 6, tel. 212 61 16,<br />
fax 212 71 65. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Universiteto Vaistinė C-3, Universiteto 2, tel. 212 12<br />
19, fax 231 31 10. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Vokiečių Vaistinė C-4, Didžioji 13, tel. 212 42 32.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°4 - 400 lek<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
TIRANA<br />
2006 - 2007<br />
Save and smile<br />
heAlth<br />
Dentists in Vilnius are of a high quality but are not expensive.<br />
So why not get a check-up, or a scrub-up, and leave<br />
Vilnius with a shiny new smile?<br />
The following dentists offer services to foreigners. They<br />
have English-speaking staff who won’t start to chat with<br />
you while your mouth is full of cuttlery. We asked them<br />
for prices for a basic check-up, a jolly-good tooth cleaning<br />
session, a tooth-whitening (priced per tooth), filling a hole<br />
and removing a gold tooth from Nanna so that it can be<br />
melted down and turned into something useful.<br />
Dr. Br. Sidaravičius Dental Clinic A-3, Klaipėdos<br />
2/14-3, tel. 262 97 60/261 20 41, helika@takas.<br />
lt. Check-up 10-100Lt, cleaning 250Lt, whitening 50Lt/1<br />
tooth, hole 150 - 500Lt, nanna - n.a. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Gidenta H-3, Vienuolio 14-3, tel. 261 71 43, fax 262<br />
09 27, info@gidenta.lt, www.gidenta.lt. General dental<br />
treatment, implants, professional hygienical care. Check-up<br />
50Lt, cleaning 3 - 6Lt/1tooth, whitening 450 - 800Lt, hole<br />
100 - 150Lt, nanna 40 - 200Lt, implant 2000Lt/1 tooth.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Stomatologic Clinic C-3, Universiteto 2/18, tel.<br />
231 29 52, info@odontologijosklinika.lt, www.<br />
odontologijosklinika.lt. Check-up - 45Lt, cleaning<br />
- 5Lt/tooth, whitening - 900Lt, nanna - 60-350Lt,<br />
hole - 90-150Lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. JA<br />
Stomatologijos Gydykla C-3, Dominikonų 3-45,<br />
tel./fax 262 84 82. Check-up 20 - 30Lt, cleaning 5Lt/1<br />
tooth, whitening 350 - 1400Lt, hole 100 - 200Lt, nanna 100<br />
- 350Lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA<br />
Get <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> before you go<br />
The full <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> range is available to purchase online at:<br />
www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy<br />
Shopping fever<br />
Tirana’s first malls<br />
Facade art<br />
Painting the city pink<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
BUCHAREST<br />
N°40 - 8.00 lei<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
April - May 2006<br />
A New Look<br />
We‘ve never looked<br />
better: <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
gets a makeover<br />
Blogging<br />
Bucharest<br />
Our guide to the best<br />
politically incorrect<br />
comment online<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°34 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1641-5264<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°7 - Free copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
WARSAW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
BELFAST<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Wilanów<br />
Explore the Polish<br />
Versailles<br />
Out of town<br />
Poland‘s top spa town:<br />
Nałęczów<br />
The Great<br />
Outdoors<br />
Cycling, skydiving and<br />
country pursuits<br />
Gastro Tourism<br />
Seafood, whiskey and<br />
St. George’s Market<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°34 - 100 Kč<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°60 - 1.20Ls<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
PRAGUE<br />
August - September 2006<br />
RIGA<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Going to the<br />
chapel<br />
Karlštejn’s renovated<br />
jewel<br />
Let’s rock<br />
Visiting the Bohemian<br />
Paradise<br />
Hockey Fever<br />
Everything you need to<br />
know about IIHF World<br />
Championship in Riga<br />
Explore Latvia<br />
Take a day trip to<br />
the seaside towns of<br />
Jūrmala and Liepāja<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
COLOGNE<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
River tours<br />
Wine and dine on the<br />
Rhine<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
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June - July 2006<br />
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N°23 - €1.75<br />
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BERLIN<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Museum night<br />
100 museums in one<br />
night<br />
Floating the<br />
boat<br />
Spree river tours<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
HAMBURG<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
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June - July 2006<br />
Harbour tours<br />
Down in the docks<br />
Football events<br />
Win or lose, this is<br />
where to party<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°47 - 35kr<br />
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TALLINN<br />
April - May 2006<br />
Touring Narva<br />
Cool sights at the EU‘s<br />
eastern border<br />
IYP gets a new<br />
look<br />
The inside scoop on the<br />
new look inside<br />
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°41 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1508-2334<br />
KRAKÓW<br />
August - September 2006<br />
Tarnów<br />
Explore the Pearl of the<br />
Renaissance<br />
Leisure<br />
Getting active in Kraków<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
1
2 Business direCtory<br />
Far from the yellow pages, this Vilnius directory is focused<br />
on the places that really matter to foreign visitors and<br />
guests of the city. However concise, it somehow remains<br />
complete.<br />
Accountants<br />
CO Finansai G-2, A.Goštauto 12a, tel. 268 38 51.<br />
Deloitte & Touche A-1, Jogailos 4, tel. 255 30 00.<br />
Ernst & Young Baltic C-5, Subačiaus 7, tel. 274<br />
22 00.<br />
Financial Management Group C-4, Didžioji 23,<br />
tel. 261 94 77.<br />
KPMG Baltics G-2, Vytauto 12, tel. 210 26 00.<br />
Leinonen B-2, Labdarių 5, tel. 237 50 40.<br />
PricewaterhouseCoopers G-3, Jasinskio 16b, tel.<br />
239 23 00.<br />
Rödl & Partner C-4, Tilto 1/2, tel. 212 35 90.<br />
Business connections<br />
ABB G-2, Saltoniškių 14, tel. 273 83 00.<br />
American Chamber of Commerce G-3, Lukiškių<br />
5-204, tel. 261 11 81.<br />
Association of Lithuanian Banks G-3, Ankštoji 5,<br />
tel. 249 66 69.<br />
Association of Lithuanian Chambers of Commerce,<br />
<strong>In</strong>dustry & Crafts G-3, Tumo-Vaižganto<br />
9/1-63a, tel. 261 21 02.<br />
Belgian Trade Representative/AWEX (Brussels<br />
and Walloon) Alberta 13-5, Riga, Latvia, tel. +371<br />
703 93 21.<br />
British Chamber of Commerce A-2, Jogailos 4, tel.<br />
269 00 62.<br />
Department of Statistics (Statistikos departamentas)<br />
H-3, Gedimino 29, tel. 236 48 00.<br />
French Trade Mission C-3, Švarco 1, tel. 212 29<br />
88.<br />
German - Baltic Chamber of Commerce in Estonia,<br />
Latvia, Lithuania G-3, Kudirkos 6, tel. 213<br />
11 22.<br />
Hungary Commercial Office C-4, Savičiaus 8-4,<br />
tel. 269 09 31.<br />
Chamber of Commerce & <strong>In</strong>dustry H-4, Algirdo<br />
31, tel. 213 55 50.<br />
Chambre de Commerce Franco-Lituanienne G-4,<br />
Smolensko 12-220, tel. 233 54 88.<br />
Italian Trade Commission (ICE) C-3, Universiteto<br />
4, tel. 212 37 44.<br />
Lithuanian Development Agency (Lietuvos<br />
ekonominės plėtros agentūra) C-3, Šv. Jono 3,<br />
tel. 262 74 38.<br />
Open Society Fund C-4, Didžioji 5, tel. 268 55 11.<br />
Business services<br />
Consensus Europae G-2, Goštauto 11, tel. 261<br />
49 08.<br />
Conference facilities<br />
Ad Astrum I-2, Šeimyniškių 21b, tel. 273 01 21.<br />
Barbacan Palace D-4, Bokšto 19 / Šv. Kazimiero<br />
12, tel. 266 08 40.<br />
Best Western Naujasis Vilnius Conference Centre<br />
H-2, Konstitucijos 14, tel. 273 95 95.<br />
Centrum Uniquestay & Business Centre G-4,<br />
Vytenio 9/25, tel. 268 33 00.<br />
City Park B-2, Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 3, tel. 210 74<br />
61.<br />
Comfort Vilnius B-5, Gėlių 5, tel. 264 88 33.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
European Commission<br />
European Commission A-4, Naugarduko 10,<br />
tel. 231 31 91, fax 231 31 92, comm-rep-lithuania@ec.europa.eu,<br />
http://<br />
ec.europa.eu/lietuva. Established<br />
in 1996, the Delegation<br />
of the European Commission in<br />
Lithuania boasts full diplomatic<br />
mission status, serving as both a<br />
mediator between the Lithuanian<br />
government and the EU, and an information source for the<br />
general public. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
European Commission <strong>In</strong>formation Centre<br />
A-4, Naugarduko 10, tel. 231 31 91, fax 231 31<br />
92, comm-rep-lithuania@ec.europa.eu, http://<br />
ec.europa.eu/lietuva. QOpen 13:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. J<br />
Conti B-5, Raugyklos 7/2, tel. 251 41 11.<br />
Domus Maria C-5, Aušros Vartų 12, tel. 264 48 80.<br />
Ecotel Vilnius H-2, Slucko 8, tel. 210 27 00.<br />
Europa Royale Vilnius C-5, Aušros Vartų 6, tel.<br />
266 07 70.<br />
Europos Parkas Joneikiškių village, Vilnius district,<br />
tel. 237 70 77.<br />
Forum Business Centre G-2, Konstitucijos 26, tel.<br />
210 31 03.<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n H-2, Šeimyniškių 1, tel. 210 30 16.<br />
Karolina Sausio 13-osios 2, tel. 245 39 39.<br />
Le Méridien Villon Resort & Convention Centre<br />
19km from Vilnius on the Vilnius-Riga A2 highway, tel.<br />
273 97 05.<br />
Mabre Residence D-3, Maironio 13, tel. 212 20 87.<br />
Narutis C-3, Pilies 24, tel. 212 28 94.<br />
Novotel B-1, Gedimino 16, tel. 266 62 00.<br />
Radisson SAS Astorija C-4, Didžioji 35/2, tel. 212<br />
01 10.<br />
Relais&Chateaux Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7, tel. 264<br />
95 95.<br />
Reval Hotel Lietuva Conference Centre H-2, Konstitucijos<br />
20, tel. 272 62 72.<br />
Reval <strong>In</strong>n Vilnius Ukmergės 363, tel. 238 80 00.<br />
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel D-2, Bernardinų 8/8,<br />
tel. 266 58 85.<br />
Start Office A-2, Business Centre 2000, Jogailos 4,<br />
tel. 269 00 69.<br />
Šarūnas I-2, Raitininkų 4, tel. 272 32 50.<br />
Conference organisers<br />
Conbaltas H-3, Kareivių 6, tel. 212 00 03.<br />
Litexpo E-4, Laisvės 5, tel. 268 68 96.<br />
Visus Plenus G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. 213 63 26.<br />
Foreign representations<br />
Australia (Consulate) B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel./fax 212<br />
33 69, australia@consulate.lt. Open to visitors Tue<br />
10:00-13:00, Thu 14:00-17:00. J<br />
Austria G-3, Gaono 6, tel. 266 05 80, fax 279 13 63,<br />
wilna-ob@bmaa.gv.at. Open to visitors 09:00 - 12:00 daily.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Belarus Muitinės 41, tel. 213 22 55, fax 233 06 26,<br />
consulate@belarus.lt, www.belarus.lt. QOpen 08:30<br />
- 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Belgium A-3, K.Kalinausko 2b, tel. 266 08 20, fax 212
64 44, vilnius@diplobel.org, www.diplomatie.be/vilnius.<br />
Open for visitors: 09:00 - 12:00 ; 14:00 - 16:00. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Canada A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. 249 09 50, fax 249 78<br />
65, vilnius@canada.lt, www.canada.lt. QOpen 08:30<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
China H-4, Algirdo 36, tel. 216 28 61, fax 216 26 82,<br />
chinaemb_lithuania@mfa.gov.cn, www.chinaembassy.<br />
lt. QOpen , Mon, Wed 09:00 - 18:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 12:00,<br />
Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Czech Republic F-3, Birutės 16, tel. 266 10 40, fax 266<br />
10 66, vilnius@embassy.mzv.cz, www.mzv.cz/vilnius.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Denmark I-2, T.Kosciuškos 36, tel. 264 87 60, fax<br />
231 23 00, vnoamb@um.dk, www.ambvilnius.um.dk.<br />
Open for visitors 10:00 - 12:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Dominican Republic (Consulate) C-1, T.Vrublevskio<br />
6, tel./fax 212 24 56. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. J<br />
Estonia G-3, A.Mickevičiaus 4a, tel. 278 02 00, fax 278<br />
02 01, sekretar@estemb.lt, www.estemb.lt. Visas Tue,<br />
Wed, Thu 10:00 - 12:00. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.<br />
Finland A-3, Klaipėdos 6 (3rd floor), tel. 212 16 21,<br />
fax 212 24 63, sanomat.vil@formin.fi, www.finland.lt.<br />
Open for visas 09:00 - 13:00 ; 14:00 - 16:00. QOpen 08:30<br />
- 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
France C-3, Švarco 1, tel. 212 29 79, fax 212 42 11, ambafrance.vilnius@diplomatie.gouv.fr,www.ambafrancelt.org.<br />
Open for visas 09:00 - 11:30. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Georgia F-2, D.Poškos 13, tel. 273 69 59, fax 272<br />
36 23, embassy@georgia.w3.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Germany G-3, Z.Sierakausko 24/8, tel. 210 64 00, fax<br />
210 64 46, info@wilna.diplo.de, www.vilnius.diplo.de.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Greece C-4, Rūdninkų 2, tel. 261 05 26, fax 261 05<br />
36, embassy@grembvil.w3.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Hungary A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. 269 00 38, fax 269 00 39, office@vengrijosambasada.lt,<br />
www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/vilnius.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Iceland (Consulate) F-4, Konarskio 28a, tel. 215 05 75,<br />
fax 215 05 76. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Ireland C-2, Gedimino 1, tel. 262 94 60, fax 262 94 62,<br />
ireland.vilnius@gmail.com. Open for visitors 10:00 -12:00 ;<br />
14:00 - 16:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Italy F-3, Vytauto 1, tel. 212 06 20/212 06 22, fax 212 04<br />
05, ambasciata.vilnius@esteri.it, www.ambvilnius.esteri.it.<br />
Open for visitors: Mon, Fri 09:30-12:30; Tue, Thu 09:30-12:30,<br />
15:00-17:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:12. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun.<br />
Japan G-4, M.K.Čiurlionio 82b, tel. 231 04 62, fax 231<br />
04 61. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Kazakhstan F-2, Birutės 20a/35, tel. 212 21 23, fax<br />
231 35 80, kazemb@iti.lt, kazakhstan.embassy.lt.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Kirgizian Republic (Consulate) P.Lukšio 16, tel. 216<br />
28 98/+370 687 471 72, fax 276 22 95.<br />
Latvia G-4, M.K.Čiurlionio 76, tel. 213 12 60/213 12<br />
20, fax 213 11 30, embassy.lithuania@mfa.gov.lv, www.<br />
latvia.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Malta (Consulate) C-4/5, Subačiaus 2, tel. 251 44 91,<br />
fax 212 68 68. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Morocco (Consulate) Kirtimų 57D, tel. 262 02<br />
09/+370 686 108 67, fax 262 02 03, consulate@<br />
litbana.lt. QOpen Thu 09:00 - 12:00.<br />
Norway B-4, Mėsinių 5/2, tel. 261 00 00, fax 261 01<br />
00, emb.vilnius@mfa.no, www.norvegija.lt. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Business direCtory<br />
Poland J-1, Smėlio 22a, tel. 270 90 01, fax 270 90 07,<br />
kgpl@tdd.lt, www.polandembassy.lt. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Portugal B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. 262 05 11/262 05 09,<br />
fax 262 05 12, vilnius@embportugal.lt. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Romania G-4, A.Vivulskio 19, tel. 231 05 57, fax 231 06<br />
52, ambromania@romania.lt, www.romania.lt. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Russia F-2, Latvių 53/54, tel. 272 17 63, fax 272 38<br />
77, post@rusemb.lt, www.rusemb.lt. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Spain G-4, Algirdo 4, tel. 231 39 61, fax 231 39 62, emb.<br />
vilnius@mae.es, www.mae.es/embajadas/vilnius/es/<br />
home. QOpen 09:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Sweden C-4, Didžioji 16, tel. 268 50 10, fax 268 50<br />
30, ambassaden.vilnius@foreign.ministry.se, www.swedenabroad.com.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Thailand (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. 268 18<br />
92/268 18 88, fax 212 55 91, visa@thaiconsulate.<br />
lt, www.thaiconsulate.lt. Q Open 09:00-12:00, 13:30-<br />
16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
The Netherlands A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. 269 00 72, fax<br />
269 00 73, vil@minbuza.nl, www.netherlandsembassy.lt.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:15. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
The Republic of the Philippines A-2, Jogailos 4 (B<br />
corps), tel. 212 00 33, fax 212 10 33. QOpen 08:30<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Turkey C-4, Didžioji 37, tel. 264 95 70, fax 212 32 77,<br />
turemvil@eunet.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
UK J-2, Antakalnio 2, tel. 246 29 00/+370 698 370<br />
97, fax 246 29 01, be-vilnius@britain.lt, www.britain.lt.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 16:45, Fri 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Ukraine A-3, Teatro 4, tel. 212 15 36, fax 212 04 75,<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
Business direCtory<br />
ukrembassy@post.5ci.lt, www.5ci.lt/ukrembassy.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
USA G-3, Akmenų 6, tel. 266 55 00, fax 266 55 10, www.<br />
usembassy.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Vatican I-2, T.Kosciuškos 28, tel. 212 36 96, fax 212<br />
42 28, nuntiusbalt@aiva.lt, www.vatican.va. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Freight forwarding<br />
Ad Rem Metalo 2a/7, tel. 232 93 30.<br />
DPD F-5, Vilkpėdės 4, tel. 210 67 50.<br />
DSV Transport Liudvinavo 123a, tel. 268 62 00.<br />
Genealogy<br />
Lithuanian Central State Archive (Lietuvos centrinis<br />
valstybės archyvas) Milašiaus 21, tel. 247 78 11.<br />
Lithuanian Repatriation <strong>In</strong>formation Centre<br />
(Lietuvių grįžimo į Tėvynę informacijos centras)<br />
G-3, Gedimino 64, tel. 231 36 23.<br />
Lithuanian State Historical Archives (Lietuvos<br />
valstybės istorijos archyvas) F-6, Gerosios Vilties<br />
10, tel. 213 74 82.<br />
Registry (Gyventojų registro tarnyba) G-4, Lvovo<br />
7/6, tel. 271 77 88.<br />
Human resources<br />
Delta Management Solutions B-3, Vilniaus 39/6,<br />
tel. 231 44 23.<br />
INSCAPI Baltic A-3, Klaipėdos 1/16, tel. 261 23 26.<br />
J. Friisberg & Partners B-4, Vokiečių 26, tel. 266<br />
11 01.<br />
People Management C-4, Savičiaus 11-37, tel.<br />
269 13 34.<br />
Person Premier B-1, Tilto 10-3, tel. 264 73 88.<br />
Primum Esse H-2, Juozapavičiaus 6/2D, tel. 275<br />
58 44.<br />
Search & Selection G-4, Smolensko 10, tel. 232<br />
62 37.<br />
Vilniaus Konsultacinė Grupė H-2, Konstitucijos 7,<br />
tel. 266 11 00.<br />
<strong>In</strong>surance<br />
ERGO Lietuva H-5, Geležinio Vilko 6a, tel. (8-800)<br />
270 00.<br />
Lietuvos Draudimas A-3, Basanavičiaus 12, tel.<br />
1828.<br />
Lawyers<br />
Bernotas ir Dominas Glimstedt A-2, Jogailos 4,<br />
tel. 269 07 00.<br />
D.Foight & Partners/Regija Borenius G-3, Jasinskio<br />
16a, tel. 264 95 55.<br />
Financial Management Group A-1, Didžioji 23, tel.<br />
261 94 77.<br />
Foresta G-3, Kudirkos 22, tel. 212 45 64.<br />
Hough, Žulys ir Partneriai I-4, Užupio 30, tel. 215 30 73.<br />
Jurevičius, Balčiūnas & Bartkus C-5, Subačiaus<br />
7, tel. 274 24 00.<br />
Juridicon Law Firm G-3, Totorių 5-7, tel. 269 11 00.<br />
Law Firm MK&P (Miškinis, Kvainauskas & Partners)<br />
A-2, Pylimo 6, tel. 212 40 84.<br />
Law Office of Attorney Mindaugas Šimkūnas<br />
Jakšto 14-6, tel. 212 08 86.<br />
Lideika, Petrauskas, Valiūnas & Partners LAWIN<br />
A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. 268 18 88.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Sabaliauskas ir Partneriai B-1, Tilto 8/3, tel. 212<br />
42 44.<br />
Saladžius & Partners G-3, Jasinskio 16b, tel. 239<br />
23 91.<br />
Sorainen Law Offices A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. 268 50 40.<br />
Sutkienė, Pilkauskas & Partners C-4, Didžioji 23,<br />
tel. 251 44 44.<br />
Lithuanian officials<br />
Department of Customs (Muitinės departamentas)<br />
H-3, A.Jakšto 1/25, tel. 261 30 27.<br />
Government B-1, Gedimino 11, tel. 266 37 11.<br />
Ministry of Foreign Affairs G-3, Tumo-Vaižganto 2,<br />
tel. 236 24 44.<br />
Municipality (Savivaldybė) B-1, Konstitucijos 3,<br />
tel. 211 20 00.<br />
Parliament (Seimas) G-3, Gedimino 53, tel. 239<br />
60 60.<br />
President’s Office C-2, Daukanto 3/8, tel. 266 41 54.<br />
Notaries<br />
Notary Bureau 2 (Notarų biuras) C-2, Tilto 12a,<br />
tel. 231 46 83.<br />
Notary Bureau 3 C-4, Rūdninkų 8, tel. 262 01 17.<br />
Office rental<br />
Scandinavian Business Center A-4, Naugarduko<br />
3, tel. 266 06 66.<br />
Start Office A-2, Jogailos 4, Business Centre 2000,<br />
tel. 269 00 69.<br />
Office supplies<br />
Daily Service G-2, Saltoniškių 9b, tel. 278 54 44.<br />
PR<br />
<strong>In</strong>tegrity PR C-3, Pilies 25a, tel. 268 51 35.<br />
VRP Hill & Knowlton G-3, Goštauto 40B, tel. 249 99 49.<br />
Real estate<br />
Butas Tau B-2, Vilniaus 45, tel. 261 87 74.<br />
Centro Kubas D-4, Bokšto 19/ Šv.Kazimiero 12, tel.<br />
212 70 90, www.centrokubas.lt<br />
Nuomos Biuras (Rental Bureau) A-3, Pylimo 20-15,<br />
tel. 233 55 77, www.nuomosbiuras.lt.<br />
Ober-Haus H-3, Kaštonų 8, tel. 231 41 67, www.<br />
oberhaus.lt.<br />
Sektor RealEstate C-4, Savičiaus 11-57, tel. 266 03<br />
10, www.sector.lt.<br />
Start Office A-2, Business Centre 2000, Jogailos 4,<br />
tel. 269 00 69.<br />
Šimtas Vienas Procentas G-3, Kalvarijų 2a, tel. 233<br />
27 77, www.101.lt.<br />
Removal companies<br />
Calenberg Vilnius Bukiškės, Vilniaus reg., tel. 243<br />
00 04.<br />
<strong>In</strong>terdean.<strong>In</strong>terconex F-2, Stirnų 27a-309, tel. 210<br />
91 11.<br />
Security firms<br />
Ekskomisarų Biuras F-3, Kęstučio 10, tel. 212 41 61.<br />
Falck Security G-3, Jasinskio 16c, tel. 275 58 80.
Arriving in Druskininkai<br />
From Vilnius A little over 130km southwest of Vilnius,<br />
Druskininkai is a few kilometres west of the fabulous<br />
Grūto Parkas, which should not be missed if in the<br />
area. To get to either by car, head west out of Vilnius<br />
on Savanorių, take the right turn signposted for Trakai<br />
and keep following the Druskininkai signs. Journey<br />
time is between 90 and 120 minutes. Alternatively,<br />
plenty of buses leave from the bus station every day.<br />
Bus station C-2, Gardino 1, tel. +370 313 513 33.<br />
QOpen 04:45 - 21:15.<br />
Tourism <strong>In</strong>formation Centre C-2, Gardino 3, tel.<br />
+370 313 608 00, information@druskininkai.lt,<br />
info.druskininkai.lt. Unfortunately, they’re completely<br />
useless, are no help in finding accommodation and don’t<br />
even have free maps. The main office, where presumably<br />
there might be someone more helpful than a disinterested<br />
teenager, is closed on weekends. Pathetic. Also<br />
at M.K.Čiurlionio 65, Open 10:00 - 18:45, Sun 10:00<br />
- 17:00, tel +370 313 517 77 QOpen 08:30 - 17:15.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
More on Druskininkai<br />
More detailed information about Druskininkai, including<br />
a handy map and full details of the new aqua park, are<br />
available in Kaunas <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>, which will probably<br />
be available from the same place where you got this copy<br />
of Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>.<br />
Where to stay<br />
Druskininkai offer plenty of options for all tastes and budgets,<br />
from straightforward hotels, to all-inclusive deals including<br />
therapies at one of the town’s many sanatoriums.<br />
The town is changing rapidly, with plenty of development<br />
and renovation occuring all about the place. Outposts of<br />
Soviet-style horibleness are now few and far between, but<br />
you can find them if you really try. A few cheap and cheerful<br />
self-catering packages are also on offer.<br />
Hotels<br />
Aqua Medūna A-2, Vilniaus 13-1, tel. +370 313 59195,<br />
fax +370 313 59 194, aquameduna@stamita.lt, www.<br />
aquameduna.lt. This hotel, located within the sparkly<br />
new Aqua Park, is equally sparkly and new but overpriced.<br />
You see, they just opened in a prime location and they’re<br />
up-themselves already. The rooms are more functional<br />
than comfortable, and really a little bit too basic given the<br />
prices. Good views are available from some rooms but until<br />
they get a bit more realistic with the prices this should be<br />
a last resort. Q92 rooms (7 singles €45 - 52, 78 doubles<br />
€55 - 81, 5 suites €93 - 127, 2 apartments €162 - 202).<br />
PHAR6UILGKW hhh<br />
Dalija B-2, Vasario 16-osios 1, tel. +370 313 518 14,<br />
dalijahotel@one.lt, www.druskonis.lt. You won’t do better<br />
in terms of location and price. The charming late-1800s<br />
building hints at the mildly dowdy and dated but throroughly<br />
comfortable innards. The rooms are like mini-apartments,<br />
with their own kitchenette and private bathrooms. Staying<br />
here is not just a bargain, but a pleasant experience. Plenty<br />
of smiles from the nice people who run the place, which is<br />
lovely.Q11 rooms (6 doubles 80 - 100Lt, 1 triple 100 - 120Lt,<br />
4 suites 120 - 180Lt). LG<br />
druskininkAi<br />
Archispectre Park<br />
Druskininkai B-2, Kudirkos 43, tel. +370 313 525 66,<br />
fax +370 313 513 45, admin@hotel-druskininkai.lt,<br />
www.hotel-druskininkai.lt. A smart and gleaming glass box<br />
that screams out ‘business types, come hither!’ Big beds,<br />
a quaint spa and service that goes beyond the call of duty<br />
are the highlights here. Excellent breakfasts and high speed<br />
internet stations in the lobby. Don’t miss the rooftop garden<br />
in summer and the spa facilities at any time. Q50 rooms (11<br />
singles 200 - 210Lt, 20 doubles 290 - 300Lt, 8 suites 420 -<br />
510Lt, 10 junior suites 340 - 370Lt, 1 presidential apartments<br />
800Lt). PHARULGKD hhhh<br />
Europa Royale Druskininkai B-2, Vilniaus 7, tel.<br />
+370 313 422 21, fax +370 313 422 23, druskininkai@<br />
EuropaRoyale.com, www.EuropaRoyale.com. It’s a<br />
mansion. Actually, it was an 18th century mansion, and now<br />
it is a swish and sparkly new hotel that offers the utmost in<br />
comfort and luxury. All rooms have heated floors, minibar,<br />
safes, air conditioning and a telephone in the toilet so you<br />
can lord it over the staff - serenely friendly types, we might<br />
add - from the comfort of your throne. There’s even twicedaily<br />
housekeeping. You’ll be tempted to stay until you run<br />
out of money. Q101 rooms (2 singles €58 - 94, 78 doubles<br />
€70 - 111, 8 suites €87 - 156, 13 apartments €145 - 264).<br />
PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhh<br />
Galia B-1, Dabintos 3, tel. +370 313 605 10, fax +370<br />
313 551 00, hotel@galia.lt, www.galia.lt. So that’s where<br />
all the used furniture from the Star Trek set went. The hotel<br />
is actually located in three buildings, one of which looks a<br />
bit mock-medieval. Yes, it’s totally wacky, and may be the<br />
perfect place for those who love Lithuanian strangeness,<br />
as well as a green bubbling pool with twinkling ‘stars’ in the<br />
ceiling above. Q44 rooms (2 singles 80 - 110Lt, 36 doubles<br />
140 - 220Lt, 3 triples 220 - 260Lt, 3 suites 180 - 250Lt).<br />
HAR6LGKDW hhh<br />
Jerevan M. K.Čiurlionio 128, tel./fax +370 313 555<br />
54, martingass@takas.lt, www.jerevan.lt. Out of town,<br />
and out of the question unless you like the idea of a technicolor<br />
yawn before bedtime. Rooms are colour-themed and<br />
totally tasteless. The pink room, in particular, is hideous - pink<br />
curtains, shimmering pink bedspread, heart-shaped lamps.<br />
Small girls might like it, but for everyone else, staying here<br />
is a headache waiting to happen. Q 10 rooms (60-250Lt).<br />
HARLGKDXC hhh<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
druskininkAi<br />
Medūna B-2, Liepų 2, tel. +370 313 580 33, fax +370<br />
313 580 34, meduna@stamita.lt, www.meduna.lt.<br />
The gleaming glass and ochre exterior hints at the modernity<br />
and warmth inside, but does nothing to prepare you for<br />
the chintzy and somewhat over-the-top rooms, possibly<br />
decorated by Flash Gordon’s mum. Still, it’s nothing a quick<br />
respite in the rough brick and lumpen leather wine cellar won’t<br />
fix. Q14 rooms (12 doubles €23 - 52, 2 suites €64 - 87).<br />
A6ILGK hhh<br />
Pušynas B-2, Vilniaus 3, tel./fax +370 313 566 66,<br />
info@pusynas.lt, www.pusynas.lt. You can’t miss it. It looks<br />
like a birthday cake designed by Gaudi. Or maybe a termite<br />
mound. Anyway, while the outside may appear a bit startling<br />
the interior is simple, subtle, smart and suave. If you can<br />
resist the temptation of your weird bikini-shaped balcony for<br />
a while, you will enjoy satellite television, minibar and internet<br />
access. Q66 rooms (17 singles 150Lt, 52 doubles 180Lt, 7<br />
suites 280Lt). HARU6GXKW hhh<br />
Regina A/B-2, Kosciuškos 3, tel. +370 313 590 60, fax<br />
+370 313 590 61, reservation@regina.lt, www.regina.<br />
lt. A stylish hotel without the extra frills, but with some great<br />
offers to entice guests - romantic weekends, family breaks<br />
and healthy holiday packages are all available. A peachy<br />
plum place for a weekend away. Q40 rooms (8 singles<br />
150 - 190Lt, 29 doubles 220 - 280Lt, 3 suites 320 - 400Lt).<br />
PTHAGK hhh<br />
Violeta B-3, Kurorto 4, tel. +370 313 606 00, fax +370<br />
313 606 02, info@violeta.lt, www.violeta.lt. Offering as<br />
spectacular a riverside landscape as is possible. Rooms<br />
are gorgeous, but as there is a wonderful dining terrace for<br />
summer and a cafe/restaurant with a fireplace for winter,<br />
you may not stay in them too much. There’s also a sprinkling<br />
of small pools, massage and fitness services, and secure<br />
underground parking. Q20 rooms (2 singles 180 - 210Lt, 13<br />
doubles 230 - 357Lt, 4 suites 300 - 400Lt, 1 apartment 500<br />
- 945Lt). HARUFLGKDXC hhhh<br />
Spas<br />
Draugystės Sanatorija B-3, Krėvės 7, tel. +370 313<br />
531 32, sanatorija@draugyste.lt, www.draugyste.lt.<br />
The name means ‘friendship’ and if you want a friendly massage,<br />
mud bath or mineral bath they will be happy to oblige.<br />
Accommodation is available in pretty little villas located on<br />
the sprawling grounds where two rivers meet. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00. DC<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Druskininkų Gydykla<br />
Sat 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
East Island Oriental SPA<br />
Vilniaus 13 (Aqua Park), tel. +370<br />
313 566 43/+370 670 004 44,<br />
spa@east-island.lt. Spa packages,<br />
beauty treatments, soliariums.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri,<br />
Druskininkų Gydykla A-2, Vilniaus 11, tel. +370<br />
313 605 08, fax +370 313 605 09, www.gydykla.lt. A<br />
bright and modern sanatorium offering mud, mineral, bubble,<br />
carbonic, turpentine, herbal, vapor, vertical and underwater<br />
massage baths - and a nice room to sit down in and look out<br />
across the park and river afterwards. Don’t drink the water<br />
in the fountains, it’s salty and might make you puke. No accommodation.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Eglės Sanatorija A-5, Eglės 1, tel. +370 313 602<br />
20/+370 313 602 83, fax +370 313 602 38, info@<br />
sanatorija.lt, www.sanatorija.lt. The building is a bit<br />
dated on the outside and the accommodation is a bit simple<br />
on the inside, but they offer full treatment and therapy<br />
services. A bit more hospital-like and less hotel-like than its<br />
competitors. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. 669 rooms (229 singles<br />
176-151Lt, 400 doubles 148-130Lt, 40 suites 190-165Lt.<br />
Prices for one person, including procedures and all meals).<br />
THUFLGKDC<br />
Lietuvos Sanatorija B-2, Kudirkos 45, tel. +370 313<br />
528 33/+370 620 244 40, fax +370 313 554 90,<br />
info@sanatorijalietuva.lt, www.sanatorijalietuva.lt. Not<br />
one of the most modern places - it might remind you of an<br />
old James Bond movie - but it is certainly professional and<br />
comfortable and there’s no chance that you will be drowned<br />
in your mud bath by a SPECTRE operative. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00. HAK<br />
Spa Vilnius C-3, Dineikos 1, tel. +370 313 538<br />
11/+370 313 591 60, fax +370 313 590 59, info@<br />
spa-vilnius.lt, www.spa-vilnius.lt. The all-in-one modern<br />
hotel and sparkly spa package with a generous mineral<br />
water swimming pool and modern gym packed with blinking,<br />
whirring exercise machines. Mud and mineral baths<br />
are also available. Spa open: 08:00 - 22:00. Q187<br />
rooms (24 singles 149 - 179Lt, 114 doubles 209 - 259Lt,<br />
41 suites 289 - 349Lt, 8 apartments 359 - 439Lt, 23<br />
mini suites 259 - 309Lt). THARFLGKDC<br />
hhhh<br />
Camping<br />
Dainava A-2, Maironio 22, tel. +370 313 591 00,<br />
dainava@centrasdainava.lt, www.centrasdainava.lt.<br />
This is part of a training centre for civil servants, but don’t<br />
let that worry you. There’s spaces for vans and tents with<br />
electricity, water, showers and toilets. And you don’t even<br />
have to take a number and wait in a queue to use them. Yet.<br />
Tent or van - 10Lt.<br />
Kempingas C-2, Gardino 3a, tel. +370 313 608 00,<br />
camping@druskininkai.lt. Clean, tidy, family friendly and<br />
the ideal place to park your caravan or pitch your tent.<br />
(Although we would advise against a tent at this time of<br />
year.) Ideally located a short way out of the centre, so you<br />
get nearby forests and lakes while being just a few hundred<br />
metres stroll from the centre. Enough room for 45 caravans<br />
or tents. Q Tents 20Lt, vans 50Lt and little cabins 120Lt<br />
per night for two people.
Where to eat<br />
Cafés<br />
Saulėgrąža B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. +370 313 523 18,<br />
euristal@one.lt. The no-nonsense pub-shack-dump kind<br />
of place that is ideal for beer, pizza and basic grilled meat<br />
kinds of meals. Very ordinary, but hits the spot when you’re<br />
having a slobbing around in the tracksuit kind of day and<br />
are feeling unfussy. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00<br />
- 24:00. AS<br />
Sicilia I & II B-2, Taikos 9, tel. +370 313 518 65, www.<br />
sicilia.lt. There are two locations, so once you’ve worked<br />
out that this is the best option for cheap and cheerful dining<br />
you can alternate between them without feeling like you’re<br />
becoming a part of the furniture. The pizzas, according to<br />
one local pizza lover, are better than those offered by the<br />
chain stores, and other meals hit a pleasing balance of<br />
value and quality. The only problem is that you’ll often have<br />
to wait for a table. Also at M.K.Čiurlionio 56, tel. +370 313<br />
572 58. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
PTAS<br />
Restaurants & Clubs<br />
Dangaus Skliautas B-3, Kurorto 8, tel. +370 313<br />
518 19. If Elvis was an Arab, he might have come up with<br />
something like this. It’s mildly over the top, and replete with<br />
little booths tucked away behind tasselled frames and glitzy<br />
curtains that look like little Bedouin tents. With a table in<br />
the middle. It’s also great joint for pop-star food, and they<br />
crank out a good blend of music that brings the place to<br />
life in the evenings. Sometimes. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
PAIS<br />
Era C-3, Druskininkų 3, tel. +370 313 559 03. A new<br />
nightclub that we haven’t been to yet. The PR pics show<br />
a rock-walled den bathed in an indigo haze. Quite befitting<br />
Druskininkai strangeness. We’ll let you know more if and when<br />
we visit. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. P<br />
Europa Royale B-2, Vilniaus 7, tel. +370 313 422 21,<br />
fax +370 313 422 23, druskininkai@EuropaRoyale.com,<br />
www.EuropaRoyale.com. When we went to print, this place<br />
was still so new and gleaming that it looked like they might<br />
only serve toothpaste to angels. If it starts to look a bit livedin<br />
it wouldn’t be a bad thing, because they serve things like<br />
soups, salads and a small selection of exquisite meat dishes<br />
- duck, beef, venison, salmon and so on - to mortals with<br />
money. A bright summer house with lush furnishings, lovely<br />
views, and very tempting meals. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.<br />
PAULES<br />
Kolonada B-2, Kudirkos 22, tel. +370 313 512<br />
22/+370 612 110 88, info@kolonada.lt, www.kolonada.<br />
lt. A music club as much as a restaurant, and reviving a prewar<br />
history of intellectual types sitting around being... erm,<br />
intellectual. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights enjoy jazz,<br />
blues and rock ‘n’ roll, and classical music respectively. On<br />
other evenings, be entertained by a DVD player. Despite the<br />
opening hours printed here, they keep going until the last<br />
person leaves. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PAUILESW<br />
Regina A-2, Kosciuškos 3, tel. +370 313 590 60, www.<br />
regina.lt. The restaurant has doubled in size, making it the<br />
biggest in town. Plenty of interesting options to choose from<br />
in a fairly romantic environment. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />
TAES<br />
druskininkAi<br />
Grūto Parkas<br />
Grūtas, 130km southwest of Vilnius, tel. +370 313<br />
555 11, fax +370 313 474 51, info@grutoparkas.<br />
lt, www.grutoparkas.lt. Several Stalins and loads of<br />
Lenins litter this bizarre, mildly controversial sculpture<br />
park near the spa town of Druskininkai. The brainchild<br />
of local mushroom millionaire Viliumas Malinauskas,<br />
come and gaze upon row after row of retired communist<br />
sculptures, collected en mass from their former positions<br />
of importance throughout Lithuania. A small zoo is<br />
thoughtfully provided so the wild boar in the cages can<br />
bite off the little children’s fingers, and if you’re hungry<br />
there’s a restaurant too. To get there by car, take the<br />
A4 highway towards Druskininkai and keep your foot on<br />
the accelerator until you see a big sign that says Grūto<br />
Parkas. Turn left and you’re there. To get there by bus,<br />
jump on a bumpy Druskininkai-bound bus at Vilnius<br />
bus station. Take the 11:00, getting you to Grūtas 90<br />
minutes or so later, remembering to ask the driver to tell<br />
you when you’re there. This gives you plenty of time to<br />
do everything before buying a postcard on the way out<br />
and heading back to get the same bus home at around<br />
16:40. The park is clearly signposted from the A4 for<br />
the final 1km hike to the park itself. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Admission, adults 10Lt, children 3Lt, photo and<br />
filming fee 5-10Lt.<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
druskininkAi<br />
What to see<br />
Churches<br />
Holy Virgin Mary Scapular Church B-2, I.Fonbergo<br />
15, tel. +370 313 552 28. A pretty neo-Gothic church that<br />
was rebuilt as you see it now from 1912-1931. Russian Orthodox Church B-2, Laisvės square. Dating<br />
from 1865 this diminutive blue wooden building is delightful<br />
both inside and out, and seemingly rather out of place. When<br />
Čiurlionis<br />
Čiurlionis Memorial Museum B-2, M.K.Čiurlionio<br />
35, tel. +370 313 511 31. Lithuania’s greatest artist<br />
and musician was a Polish-speaking man by the name<br />
of Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis. Born in the nearby<br />
town of Varėna, Čiurlionis (1875-1911) spent his childhood<br />
in Druskininkai and the town remains the spiritual<br />
home of the much loved man.<br />
An immensely prolific artist, Čiurlionis wrote extensively<br />
for the piano, composed string quartets, and also penned<br />
the country’s first symphony, <strong>In</strong> The Forest. His musical<br />
style shifted between the pastoral and romantic to<br />
occasional dabblings in serialism. A busy painter too,<br />
Čiurlionis was one of the primary organizers of the<br />
country’s first exhibition of Lithuanian art in Vilnius in<br />
1907. He served as a conductor, was deeply involved<br />
in the Lithuanian independence movement, married the<br />
writer Sofija Kymantaitė, and also found time to design<br />
some beautiful stained glass.<br />
Such a frenetic life for a man known for his profound<br />
shyness was bound to take its toll, and a bout of serious<br />
depression resulted in him first coming home to<br />
Druskininkai for recuperation, and then to a nursing<br />
home near Warsaw where he died of pneumonia at the<br />
tragically young age of 35. Čiurlionis left one daughter,<br />
whom although almost a year old when he died, he<br />
never met.<br />
Much has been written about the man, on the subject of<br />
his art (some claim he was the founder of abstract art),<br />
music, and his general mental condition, most of it being<br />
pithy academic nonsense. What is clear is that Čiurlionis<br />
was a huge talent, coming at the right time to coincide<br />
with the rebirth of the Lithuanian psyche. As well as the<br />
statue of the man at the northern end of Kudirkos, a<br />
museum comprising of four buildings can be found at the<br />
site of his childhood home in the street that now bears his<br />
name, featuring examples of his work, musical scores,<br />
instruments, stained glass and photographs. They also<br />
sell a range of postcards, posters and CDs of his work. <strong>In</strong><br />
the summer the museum also boasts strange weekend<br />
piano concerts, during which a pianist plays through an<br />
open window to an audience sat outside in the garden.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
� The Druskininkai<br />
telephone code is +370 313<br />
you’ve finally finished gaping in wonder at the exterior take<br />
some time and go through the main door to be astonished<br />
at the sheer splendour of the array of icons and religious<br />
paintings scattered throughout.<br />
Museums<br />
Druskininkai Museum B-2, M.K.Čiurlionio 59, tel.<br />
+370 313 510 24, muziejus@druskininkai.lt. Housed in<br />
a grand villa, this museum doesn’t just offer a glimpse of town<br />
history and a peek into the work of a few honorary citizens,<br />
but also hosts occasional concerts and events. Worth a visit<br />
for the building and lakeside location alone. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Museum of Resistance & Relics Of Deportations<br />
(Rezistencijos ir Tremties Muziejus) B-2, Vilniaus<br />
24, tel. +370 656 083 73. It’s just what the name says,<br />
focusing on the resistance movement of 1944-1953 and the<br />
Dainava region partisans and deportees. Mostly photographs<br />
and press clippings. Open Wed, Sun 13:00-17:00. For visits<br />
at other times call in advance.<br />
Places of interest<br />
Druskininkų Aqua Park A-2, Vilniaus 13, tel. +370<br />
313 523 38, info@akvapark.lt, www.akvapark.lt. One<br />
of Druskininkai’s wackiest old Soviet style buildings has been<br />
turned into a sparkling new aquatic amusement centre. Parts<br />
of the original architecture have been retained and combined<br />
with modern glassy bits, making this one of the must unique<br />
buildings in Lithuania. It’s full-to-overflowing with fun, too.<br />
There are all sorts of pools, waterfalls, a flowing ‘river’, hot<br />
and bubbling spa baths and even an outdoor area. Probably<br />
the biggest attraction is the squiggly mess of waterslides.<br />
These range from fairly sedate rides for the whole family to<br />
rather extreme adventures that involve G-forces that will try to<br />
suck your brains out through your ears and will leave you with<br />
a wedgie that has the be surgically removed. Basic saunas are<br />
also offered, but for an additional fee you can venture into the<br />
more sedate and sophistocated sauna centre, where a wider<br />
range of sauna types are on offer. Well worth a visit during<br />
your stay. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 21:00. AULK<br />
Echo of the Forest C-5, M.K.Čiurlionio 116, tel. +370<br />
313 539 01. This quite extraordinary construction has been<br />
built to give the illusion of floating in the air, and it almost<br />
works. <strong>In</strong>side you’ll find a ‘living evocation’ of the forest it sits<br />
in, complete with all manner of flora and fauna, animals and<br />
bugs. An oak tree grows through the centre of the building,<br />
making the whole place quite the most bizarre and uplifting<br />
adventure. Those looking for pure nature can step out the<br />
back and go for a walk along the specially arranged trail.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.<br />
Jewish Cemetery Find the tiny cemetery/memorial hidden<br />
in the woods, a few hundred metres directly southwest of the<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation centre at Gardino 3. A chilly combination<br />
of silence, Hebrew script and deep forest, this is not a place<br />
for the timid.
Arriving in Trakai<br />
Busses depart from Vilnius Bus Station every half-hour<br />
or so, and are the most convenient way to get to Trakai.<br />
Once you arrive in Trakai and get off the bus, follow the<br />
road in the same direction that the bus was going. You’ll<br />
be at the castle in 10 or 15 minutes.<br />
Trakai Bus Station Vytauto 90, tel. +370 528<br />
513 33.<br />
Trakai Train Station Vilniaus 5, tel. +370 528<br />
510 55.<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre Vytauto 69, tel./fax<br />
+370 528 519 34, trakaitic@is.lt, www.trakai.<br />
lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Where to stay<br />
Akmeninė Rezidencija Bražuolės village, (behind<br />
Trakai, near Akmena lake), tel. +370 614 866 54, info@<br />
akmenineuzeiga.lt, www.akmenineuzeiga.lt. A little hard<br />
to find this one, but worth it when you finally do. Set on the<br />
edge of arguably the finest of all Trakai’s lakes, this complex is<br />
perfect for relaxed business deals, naughty weekend breaks<br />
and all manner of other high-end adventures. As well as luxury<br />
accommodation, outside jacuzzis and the rest, these people<br />
can also organise extra activities such as fishing, sailing,<br />
horse riding, and hot air balloon trips. The whole place is<br />
based on an old fashioned wooden theme complete with<br />
thatched roofs. Q Prices for 2 persons: singles/doubles<br />
200-295Lt, luxury suites 500 - 675Lt, villas 600-795Lt. Restaurant<br />
open 12:00-24:00. HA6LGKXW<br />
Apvalaus Stalo Klubas Hotel Karaimų 53a, Trakai,<br />
tel. +370 528 555 95, fax +370 528 517 60, info@<br />
asklubas.lt, www.asklubas.lt. Done-up by Laura Ashley on<br />
acid - but not even she could dream-up such picture-perfect<br />
views. There’s one room where you can lie in bed and look<br />
out at the castle (or sit on the toilet and look at the castle, if<br />
you prefer). <strong>In</strong> other rooms, you have to teeter on a chair and<br />
stick your head out the attic window to get a view, but it’s still<br />
a lovely spot. The whole facility, with restaurant, sauna and<br />
cigar lounge, is the utmost in un-subtle opulence. Q17 rooms<br />
(15 doubles 340 - 480Lt, 1 suite 580 - 780Lt, 1 apartment<br />
650 - 720Lt). PHAUILGKDW<br />
hhhh<br />
Lakštas Farm Varnikų forest, 4km east of Trakai on the<br />
road to Lentvaris, tel. +370 698 165 33, info@kaimoturizmas.lt,<br />
www.kaimoturizmas.lt. Stay in an antique cottage<br />
with toilet and shower. During the coming winter months<br />
partake in all manner of activities from sledding, cross-country<br />
skiing, ice-skating and skating. To get there, take the Vilnius-<br />
Trakai road towards Trakai, take a left on the road to Lentvaris.<br />
Drive 4km and then take a left on the dirt road, Rubežius which<br />
begins right at the border sign to Lentvaris. Once on the dirt<br />
road stay on the main dirt road and take the third left road.<br />
Follow it to the end. Q Rooms 120Lt. D<br />
Salos Kranto 5b, tel. +370 528 539 90, fax +370 528<br />
539 91, salos@salos.lt, www.salos.lt. Fittings are ultrabasic<br />
but mildly modern and beds do look a bit droopy, but<br />
this hotel (complete with restaurant and surprisingly modern<br />
nightclub) offers a fantastic location just a javelin throw from<br />
the centre of all the action. There’s also a restaurant, swimming<br />
pool and, thoughtfully, noise-resistant windows in all the<br />
rooms. Q9 rooms (5 doubles 160Lt, 4 suites 240 - 280Lt).<br />
HALGKDCW<br />
trAkAi<br />
Castle, as seen by Vilnius Ballooning Association<br />
Trasalis Gedimino 26, tel. +370 528 515 88/+370 528<br />
250 48, fax +370 528 515 89, hotel@trasalis.lt, www.<br />
trasalis.lt. This is a huge hotel, conference, entertainment<br />
and SPA complex. The rooms are basic but very new, smart<br />
and comfortable. With so many distractions, however (bowling,<br />
billiards, mud baths, massage, dead sea dipping pool,<br />
water slide, and all manner of bizarre treatments) you won’t<br />
spend much time in your room, and may not even mind the fact<br />
that this place is 3km from the centre of Trakai and actually<br />
in the middle of nowhere. Q103 rooms (4 suites 320Lt, 2<br />
apartments 340Lt, 91 standard rooms 220Lt, 6 business<br />
class 300Lt). PTHARUFLGKDXCW<br />
hhh<br />
Where to eat<br />
Žvejų Namai On the Vievis -Trakai road, 2km west<br />
off the A1 highway, tel. +370 528 260 08, fax +370<br />
528 260 04, zvejunamai@takas.lt, www.zvejunamai.<br />
lt. Bring your own rods and reels or hire some old ones,<br />
and dip your string in the water until you get a bite. After<br />
you’ve caught what you want or need, take the specimens<br />
in question along to the nice man who’ll weigh them, give<br />
you a ticket, and cook the beast for you (36Lt/kg). The<br />
atmosphere is friendly and relaxed, and the whole adventure<br />
comes highly recommended. Note that the place gets<br />
extremely busy on a Saturday and Sunday and calling in<br />
advance is highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.<br />
UILS<br />
AJ Šokoladas Vytauto 4, tel. +370 655 711 43,<br />
info@ajsokoladas.lt. You’ll walk past this place on your<br />
way between the castle and the bus station. And it’s the<br />
perfect spot to pop into for coffee or tea and cake. Oh - and<br />
chocolate. We like the leather seats and air conditioning<br />
inside, but sitting outside in the warmer months is also<br />
pleasant. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
PULS<br />
� The Trakai<br />
telephone code is +370 528<br />
December 2007 - January 2008
0<br />
trAkAi<br />
Apvalaus Stalo Klubas Karaimų 53a, tel. +370 528<br />
555 95, fax +370 528 517 60, info@asklubas.lt, www.<br />
asklubas.lt. Whether you want crisp linen on your lap and<br />
fine French cuisine on your plate, or just want to stuff yourself<br />
silly and wipe pizza goop from your chin, you can do so<br />
here while enjoying the best view of the castle available.<br />
There are separate areas for both dining styles, as well<br />
as a nice outdoor terrace, and a lovely airy dining room.<br />
Conference facilities are available, and they will even pack<br />
a picnic for you - just make sure you come back in time to<br />
enjoy the romantic fairytale sunset views of the castle. Q<br />
Open 12:00 - 22:00 (restaurant), 11:00 - 22:00 (pizzeria).<br />
PHAUISW<br />
Csarda Aukštadvario 28a, tel. +370 616 290 11,<br />
csarda@csarda.lt, www.csarda.lt. It’s a little out of the<br />
way, but worth the diversion to spice up your trip to Trakai with<br />
a little Hungarian - or a lot of it, as the portions are enormous.<br />
There’s a variety of meat and fish dishes, exclusive Hungarian<br />
wine and vodka, as well as more standard Lithuanian fare.<br />
Warm up on cool nights with a place by the big chimney that<br />
looks like a witch’s hat, or on warm summer evenings, park<br />
yourself outside on a bench hacked from a log. Either way,<br />
the atmosphere alone is worth the short walk from the bus<br />
station. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00<br />
- 22:00. TAILESW<br />
Karaimų 13 Karaimų 13, tel. +370 528 519 11, karaimu13@karaimai.lt.<br />
The building made of whitewashed logs<br />
doesn’t look very Karaime at all. It’s not colourful and it’s got<br />
more than three windows. But it is very Karaime because it is<br />
home to the Karaim community centre, a lovely little restaurant<br />
with authentic Karaim food, and a fourteen-year-old girl<br />
with a moustache. The menu offers a range of Karaim dishes<br />
that extend beyond the usual pastry pockets, and the service<br />
is pleasant and prompt. A good spot tucked away from the<br />
meandering crowds. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. AULSW<br />
Kybynlar Karaimų 29, tel. +370 528 551 79, kybynlar@<br />
kybynlar.lt, www.kybynlar.lt. Not much to look at from the<br />
outside, this cosy diner is actually very stylish inside, with old<br />
photos framed on the walls alongside hand painted script in<br />
the language of the Karaite people, a minority race centred<br />
in the region. (At least that’s probably what the script is, but<br />
we wouldn’t have a clue, to be honest.) There’s a good range<br />
of options on the menu, with the traditional Karaite dish<br />
kibinai. There’s generous seating outdoors but, regrettably,<br />
no decent views (unless you like looking at a car park and a<br />
rusty shed). QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Mon 12:00 - 21:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 22:00. PTAUISW<br />
Markizas Karaimų 25a, tel. +370 687 453 72, www.<br />
markizas.lt. While it only offers a through-the-trees view of<br />
the castle, the quiet lakeside location, pleasant atmosphere<br />
and stuff-a-glutton food more than make up for it. There are<br />
some simple, honest, generous and very pleasing meals here.<br />
The kibinai are rubbish but everything else is honest-to-goodness<br />
simple and scrumptious. Outdoor seating is a treat in<br />
summer. Unfortunately they kept hanging up on us when we<br />
called to check their opening times and facilities so we can’t<br />
be any more informative about them. We hope they are less<br />
rude to you. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. JES<br />
Prie Tilto Karaimų 41, tel. +370 682 348 21. Right<br />
beside the footbridge that leads to the castle, and serving<br />
unimpressive meals to the passing hordes who can’t be<br />
bothered exploring more distant alternatives. Still, they say<br />
they’re open from 09:30 till the last client leaves. So you may<br />
as well move in and live there. S<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Senoji Kibininė Karaimų 65, tel./fax +370 528 558 65,<br />
info@kibinas.lt, www.kibinas.lt. Kibinai, a quite wonderful,<br />
small and piping hot pastry stuffed full of delicious chopped meat<br />
and onions, famous for squirting juice down one’s front during<br />
each bite, are the traditional food of the Karaites, a minority race<br />
originating from Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq) and now settled<br />
primarily in Trakai. Kibininė creates and distributes some of the<br />
biggest and best in the world, and where Kibinai are involved size<br />
does matter. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ASW<br />
Senolių Židinys Vytauto 91, tel./fax +370 528 555 63.<br />
We don’t have to describe this place because you can easily<br />
imagine it - just think of a café that’s been set up in and around<br />
a house on a gentle slope overlooking a lake. A few tables in the<br />
carport, a few more on the paved patch out the back, and lake<br />
views everywhere. All we have to do to complete the picture is<br />
let on that the food is traditional Lithuanian and pretty good,<br />
actually.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.TILS<br />
Trakų Dvarkiemis Užukampis village - on the way to<br />
Trakai, tel. +370 618 888 80, info@trakudvarkiemis.lt,<br />
www.trakudvarkiemis.lt. This is what happens when architects<br />
get their ‘barn’ and ‘mansion’ drawings mixed up. And we love it.<br />
It’s a big wooden box stuffed with frilly carved furniture and portraits<br />
of stern looking maidens. Waitresses in traditional looking<br />
dress scurry about delivering plates of stodgy grub to ravenous<br />
travellers, and the whole place jollies along merrily. The menu is<br />
vast, with something for everyone.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 01:00. PTAUILESW<br />
Museums<br />
Karaite Ethnographic Museum Karaimų 22, tel. +370<br />
528 552 86. The Karaite are a small religious group who<br />
came to Lithuania from the Crimea, enslaved as bodyguards<br />
for Grand Duke Vytautas, some time in the 15th century.<br />
Originating from Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq) in the 8th<br />
century, the word Karaite comes form kara, meaning in both<br />
Hebrew and Arabic ‘to study the scriptures’. With just some<br />
250 Karaite still here in Lithuania (namely in Trakai, Vilnius<br />
and Panevėžys), this extraordinary little museum is packed<br />
with photographs, scriptures, exquisitely carved jewellery,<br />
household items and weapons. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue.<br />
Trakai Castle & Museum Pilies island, tel. +370 528<br />
539 46, fax +370 528 552 88, info@trakaimuziejus.lt,<br />
www.trakaimuziejus.lt. The highlight of any trip to Trakai,<br />
whether one wants to stand and gawk at it or have a peer<br />
inside, is the castle. Dating from the 14th century, the place<br />
was destroyed during the war with the Russians (17th-18th<br />
centuries), with restoration work only starting again as recently<br />
as 1955. <strong>In</strong>side find a museum tracing the history of<br />
the castle and its significance as one of the holiest of holy<br />
Lithuanian sites. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Places of interest<br />
Užutrakis Palace Southeast bank of Galvė lake, off<br />
Totoriškės highway. <strong>In</strong> its glory this mansion belonged to the<br />
prominent Tiškevičius family who lived there until 1939. Now,<br />
while the palace itself is closed, the grounds have become a<br />
tourist attraction due to the lovely gardens and picturesque<br />
surroundings. <strong>In</strong> summer this is a prime spot for a picnic or<br />
for horse riding (which can be arranged via the helpful Trakai<br />
Tourism information centre). A walk around the palace grounds<br />
is free. To get here, you can catch the passenger ship Skaistis<br />
from the castle (15Lt) - look for a sandwich board just near<br />
the entrance to the castle, and be sure to mention that you<br />
want to get off at Užutrakis.
All of the venues in this<br />
guidebook marked with<br />
an Old Town symbol (�)<br />
are featured as such<br />
because even if they’re<br />
not in Old Town per se,<br />
they are at least on<br />
the map over the page<br />
which we call Old Town.<br />
Confused? Don’t be.<br />
Aguonų A-4/6<br />
A.Jakšto A-1<br />
Alkūnės D-6<br />
Arklių C-4/5<br />
Arsenalo C/D-1<br />
A.Smetonos A-1/2<br />
A.Strazdelio D-5<br />
A.Stulginskio A-2/1<br />
Ašmenos B-4<br />
Augustijonų C-4<br />
Aukštaičių D-4<br />
Aušros Vartų C-5/6<br />
A.Volano D-3<br />
Bazilijonų C/D-5<br />
Beatričės A1<br />
Benediktinių B-3<br />
Bernardinų C-2/D-3<br />
Bokšto C-3/D-5<br />
B.Radvilaitės C/D-2<br />
Didžioji C-3/4<br />
Dominikonų B/C-3<br />
Dysnos B-4<br />
Etmonų C-4<br />
Gaono C-3<br />
Gedimino A-1/D-2<br />
Geležinkelio C-6<br />
Gėlių B-5<br />
Islandijos A-2<br />
Išganytojo C/D-3<br />
J.Basanavičiaus A-3/4<br />
J.Jablonskio A-5/6<br />
J.Lelevelio A/B-1<br />
Jogailos A-1/2<br />
Karmelitų C-4/5<br />
Kaštonų A1<br />
Kauno A/B-6<br />
Kėdainių A/B-4<br />
K.Griniaus A-2<br />
K.Kalinausko A-3<br />
Klaipėdos A/B-3<br />
Kruopų B-5<br />
K.Sirvydo B-1<br />
K.Škirpos D-1/2<br />
Kūdrų D-4<br />
K.Vanagėlio D-5<br />
Labdarių B-2<br />
Lapų C-5/6<br />
Latako C/D-3<br />
Liejyklos B-2/3<br />
Liepkalnio D-6<br />
Ligoninės B-4/5<br />
Literatų C/D-3<br />
Lydos B-4<br />
street register<br />
L.Stuokos-Gucevičiaus<br />
B/C-2<br />
M.Antokolskio C-3/4<br />
Maironio D-2/4<br />
Malūnų D-3<br />
M.Daukšos D-5<br />
Mėsinių B-5/C-4<br />
Mindaugo A-4/6<br />
Naručio D-6<br />
Naugarduko A-4/5<br />
Odminių B-2<br />
Palangos A-3<br />
Pamėnkalnio A-2<br />
Pasažo C-5<br />
Paupio D-3<br />
Pelesos C/D-6<br />
Pilies C-2/3<br />
Plačioji B-5<br />
Pranciškonų B-3/4<br />
Punsko A-6<br />
Pylimo A-2/C-6<br />
Radvilų B-1<br />
Raugyklos A-6/B-5<br />
Rožių A-3/2<br />
Rusų C/D-3<br />
Rūdninkų B-5/C-4<br />
Savičiaus C-4<br />
Seinų B/C-6<br />
Sodų B-5/6<br />
S.Skapo C-2<br />
Stiklių C-3/4<br />
Stoties B-6<br />
Subačiaus C/D-5<br />
Šaltinių A/B-5<br />
Šermukšnių A1<br />
Šiaulių B-4<br />
Šiltadaržio D-2<br />
Švarco C-3<br />
Šventaragio C-2<br />
Šv. Dvasios D-5<br />
Šv. Ignoto B-3<br />
Šv. Jono C-3<br />
Šv. Kazimiero C/D-4<br />
Šv. Mikalojaus B-4<br />
Šv. Mykolo C/D-3<br />
Šv. Stepono A-6/B-5<br />
Teatro A-3<br />
Tilto B-1/C-2<br />
Totorių B-2/3<br />
Trakų A-4/B-3<br />
Turgelių D-6<br />
T.Vrublevskio C-1<br />
Universiteto C-2/3<br />
Užupio D-3<br />
Vienuolio A1<br />
Vilniaus B-1/3<br />
Vingrių A/B-4<br />
Visų Šventųjų B/C-5<br />
Vokiečių B-3/C-4<br />
V.Šopeno B-6<br />
Žemaitijos B-4<br />
Žiupronių D-5<br />
Ž.Liauksmino B-1/C-2<br />
Žydų B-4/C-3<br />
Žygimantų B/C-1<br />
December 2007 - January 2008<br />
1
Public transport scheme<br />
www.vilniustransport.lt