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THE REEF & MARINE AQUARIUM MAGAZINE<br />

<strong>Nano</strong> <strong>Gobies</strong><br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

MAY/JUNE 2012


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EDITOR & PUBLISHER | James M. Lawrence<br />

INTERNATIONAL PUBLISHER | Matthias Schmidt<br />

INTERNATIONAL EDITOR | Daniel Knop<br />

SENIOR ADVISORY BOARD |<br />

Dr. Gerald R. Allen, Christopher Brightwell,<br />

Dr. Andrew W. Bruckner, Dr. Bruce Carlson,<br />

J. Charles Delbeek, Dr. Sylvia Earle, Svein<br />

A. Fosså, Jay Hemdal, Sanjay Joshi, Larry<br />

Jackson, Martin A. Moe, Jr., Dr. John E.<br />

Randall, Julian Sprung, Dr. Rob Toonen,<br />

Jeffrey A. Turner, Joseph Yaiullo<br />

SENIOR EDITORS |<br />

Scott W. Michael, Dr. Ronald L. Shimek,<br />

<br />

Matt Pedersen<br />

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS |<br />

J. Charles Delbeek, Robert M. Fenner, Ed<br />

<br />

Mary Sweeney, John H. Tullock, Tim Wijgerde<br />

PHOTOGRAPHERS |<br />

<br />

Matthew L. Wittenrich, Vince Suh<br />

TRANSLATOR | Mary Bailey<br />

ART DIRECTOR | Linda Provost<br />

PRODUCTION MANAGER | Anne Linton Elston<br />

ASSOCIATE EDITORS |<br />

Louise Watson, Alexander Bunten,<br />

Bayley R. Lawrence<br />

EDITORIAL & BUSINESS OFFICES<br />

Reef to Rainforest Media, LLC<br />

140 Webster Road | PO Box 490<br />

Shelburne, VT 05482<br />

Tel: 802.985.9977 | Fax: 802.497.0768<br />

CUSTOMER SERVICE 570.567.0424<br />

ADVERTISING SALES |<br />

James Lawrence | 802.985.9977 Ext. 7<br />

james.lawrence@coralmagazine-us.com<br />

BUSINESS OFFICE |<br />

<br />

NEWSSTAND | Howard White & Associates<br />

PRINTING | <br />

CORAL ® , The Reef & Marine Aquarium Magazine,<br />

(ISSN:1556-5769) is published bimonthly in January,<br />

March, May, July, September, and November by Reef<br />

to Rainforest Media, LLC, 140 Webster Road, PO Box<br />

490, Shelburne, VT 05482. Periodicals postage paid<br />

at Shelburne, VT, and at additional entry offices.<br />

Subscription rates: U.S., $37 for one year. Canada, $49 for<br />

one year. Outside U.S. and Canada, $57 for one year.<br />

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CORAL,<br />

PO Box 361, Williamsport, PA 17703-0361.<br />

CORAL ® is a licensed edition of KORALLE Germany,<br />

ISSN:1556-5769<br />

Natur und Tier Verlag GmbH | Muenster, Germany<br />

All rights reserved. Reproduction of any material from this<br />

issue in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.<br />

COVER:<br />

Redeye Goby (Bryaninops natans),<br />

photo by Inken Krause.<br />

BACKGROUND:<br />

Zooantids<br />

(unidentified), photo by<br />

Daniel Knop.<br />

4<br />

LETTER FROM EUROPE by Daniel Knop<br />

7 EDITOR’S PAGE by James M. Lawrence<br />

8 LETTERS<br />

10 REEF NEWS<br />

22 RARITIES by Scott W. Michael<br />

The Dragon Moray (Enchelycore pardalis)<br />

34 VIEWPOINT: THE AQUARIUM ARK by Matt Pedersen<br />

FEATURE ARTICLES<br />

48 PYGMY GOBIES<br />

by Daniel Knop<br />

56 PYGMY GOBIES: DIVERSITY AND AQUARIUM HUSBANDRY<br />

by Inken Krause<br />

70 OVERVIEW: PYGMY GOBIES IN THE SEA AND THE AQUARIUM<br />

by Inken Krause<br />

72 THE ELDERS<br />

How long can a coral live?<br />

by Ronald L. Shimek, Ph.D.<br />

86 LONG ISLAND GOLD RUSH<br />

by Todd Gardner<br />

94 CUBA’S UNDERWATER PARADISE:<br />

LOS JARDINES DE LA REINA<br />

Part 1: Picturebook Caribbean reefs by Werner Fiedler<br />

100 SUCCESSFUL BREEDING OF THE<br />

YELLOW-BANDED PIPEFISH (Doryrhamphus pessuliferus)<br />

by Inken Krause<br />

AQUARIUM PORTRAIT<br />

105 AN ENERGY-SAVING SWISS AQUARIUM<br />

Created by Rueda Furter and Brigitte Utz<br />

by Inken Krause<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

115 SPECIES SPOTLIGHT:<br />

The Ambon Scorpionfish by Daniel Knop<br />

121 REEFKEEPING 101:<br />

Marine substrates by Daniel Knop<br />

126 CORALEXICON: Technical terms that appear in this issue<br />

128 RETAIL SOURCES: Outstanding aquarium shops<br />

130 ADVANCED AQUATICS:<br />

Behind the scenes: mammoth reef, mammoth challenges<br />

by J. Charles Delbeek<br />

134 ADVERTISER INDEX<br />

136 REEF LIFE: by Denise Nielsen Tackett and Larry P. Tackett<br />

www.CoralMagazine-US .com


LETTER<br />

Inotes from DANIEL KNOP<br />

s bigger really better and more interesting?<br />

Not necessarily—tiny can<br />

often win hands down! And that applies<br />

not only to gobies, not even just<br />

to aquarium occupants in general,<br />

but also to the aquariums in which<br />

we keep these dwarfs. Sometimes less<br />

really is more.<br />

Granted, you have to look very closely<br />

to appreciate dwarf gobies, but on the<br />

other hand, you notice more when you<br />

look closely. A coral fish doesn’t have<br />

to be big to be fascinating and striking.<br />

It’s true that it is difficult to miss a large<br />

lemon yellow or royal blue surgeonfish<br />

swimming around the aquarium, but a<br />

pair of Gobiodon gobies 1.2 inches (30<br />

mm) long, resting immobile on their bellies among the<br />

branches of a stony coral—that’s something else again.<br />

Happy reading!<br />

Their size is undoubtedly part of their<br />

survival strategy—the smaller you are<br />

the more difficult it is for predators to<br />

see you. But from the aquarist’s point<br />

of view, it is all too easy for dwarf gobies<br />

to come to grief in an aquarium<br />

of normal size.<br />

It is much better to keep these tiny<br />

fishes in a small tank, where there<br />

is less to distract us from them and<br />

we are more focused. In a large reef<br />

aquarium a pair of 0.75-inch (20-<br />

mm) Bryaninops gobies are no more<br />

than a minor detail, but in a nano<br />

tank they are the main attraction, and<br />

their true charm becomes apparent.<br />

FOCUS: BREATHER<br />

This picture of a young clownfish, nestling safe from<br />

attack among the sheltering tentacles of its host<br />

anemone, conveys an impression of security. But the<br />

sense of peace is deceptive, as the little fish is quite<br />

out of breath, gasping for air—or should I say water?<br />

For several days it has been engaged<br />

in strenuous “virtual” battles that last<br />

for hours.<br />

This fish lived in a sales tank in an<br />

aquarium store, and the neighboring<br />

tank was home to a belligerent Maroon<br />

Clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus),<br />

about the same size, that repeatedly<br />

sallied forth from its host anemone,<br />

seeking to provoke a fight. Only a few<br />

seconds before this photo was taken,<br />

the two had finally become exhausted<br />

after confronting each other violently all day through<br />

the glass, with only short intervals of peace.<br />

This Twoband Anemonefish now lives in a reef<br />

aquarium, where it has a partner and a new host<br />

anemone.<br />

—Daniel Knop<br />

A small Twoband Anemonefish<br />

(Amphiprion bicinctus) nestling among<br />

the tentacles of its host Long Tentacle<br />

Anemone (Macrodactyla doreensis).<br />

4 CORAL


CORAL<br />

5


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getting a species out of the endangered zone<br />

For a fish that was supposed to be the marine equivalent<br />

of the guppy, the Banggai Cardinalfish has proved<br />

itself to be an enigma. We were fortunate<br />

enough to obtain one of the first pairs of Pterapogon<br />

kauderni imported following the species’ introduction<br />

to the aquarium world by Dr. Gerry Allen at MACNA<br />

VII in Louisville in 1995. Placed in a small desktop<br />

aquarium for observation, they spawned within a month<br />

and the male went on a food fast, brooding a mouthful<br />

of eggs. There were but 17 fry—tiny, perfect replicas of<br />

their parents on the day they emerged—but they did not<br />

hesitate to attack and eat frozen Artemia nauplii.<br />

We assumed that home breeders would embrace the<br />

species, then selling for princely sums, and that every local<br />

fish store would soon have local suppliers of captivebred<br />

Banggai Cardinalfishes.<br />

Seventeen years later, nothing of the sort has come to<br />

pass, and in 2007 Pterapogon kauderni was placed on the<br />

International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN)<br />

Red List of endangered species. With the 2011 publication<br />

of The Banggai Cardinalfish: Natural History, Conservation,<br />

and Culture of Pterapogon kauderni (Wiley,<br />

2011), Dr. Alejandro Vagelli squarely blamed the marine<br />

aquarium trade, amateur aquarists, and the “aquarium<br />

media” for dramatically reducing wild populations of the<br />

fish, even completely wiping it out in some locations.<br />

After reading his damning words and the dismaying<br />

Red List reports, we made a personal resolution to respond.<br />

Dr. Vagelli’s work has been questioned by some,<br />

but we learned from wildlife conservation sources working<br />

in the Banggai Islands that there are, indeed, problems<br />

in the aquarium fishery there that need addressing.<br />

Dr. Allen himself did some the field work that led to the<br />

species’ endangered listing, and he believes that corrective<br />

actions are warranted.<br />

It turns out that others were ready to act as well. The<br />

Rising Tide Conservation Initiative, led by Dr. Judy St.<br />

Leger and in concert with the Association of Zoos and<br />

Aquariums, is targeting P. kauderni as one of five popular<br />

aquarium species that need to be aquacultured commercially<br />

to take the pressure off wild populations.<br />

A group of marine biologists and fisheries scientists<br />

at the University of Florida’s Tropical Aquaculture Lab<br />

(TAL) at Ruskin have already started to turn the Rising<br />

Tide goals into realities. Under the direction of aquaculturist<br />

Craig Watson, M.Aq., who is the director of the<br />

lab, Matthew Wittenrich, Ph.D., had been looking into<br />

the challenges of Banggai Cardinalfish culture.<br />

His colleague, fish veterinarian Dr. Roy Yanong, had<br />

been researching the puzzling mass deaths of so many<br />

wild-caught Banggais being brought into the U.S. His lab<br />

found an iridovirus in samples of dead fish from a group<br />

of 1,000 broodstock specimens bought by a U.S. commercial<br />

aquaculture operation. All 1,000 had died of the<br />

disease.<br />

When looking for assistance in funding a TAL research<br />

expedition to the Banggai Islands, Drs. Wittenrich<br />

and Yanong contacted this magazine. We immediately<br />

said yes, not quite sure where this small company,<br />

still in its launch phase and experiencing everyday growing<br />

pains, would find the money. We decided to embed<br />

journalist and CORAL senior editor Ret Talbot in the<br />

expedition and to invite Matt Pedersen, senior editor<br />

and an accomplished home-scale breeder, to work on a<br />

new guide for a species that had proved uncooperative<br />

for many would-be hobbyist breeders. Plans were quickly<br />

made to produce a series of magazine articles and a definitive<br />

book. But how to fund all of this?<br />

Enter Kickstarter, a radical new “crowd-funding”<br />

tool for creative projects in need of unconventional support.<br />

Thanks largely to the generous and enthusiastic<br />

support of CORAL readers, advertisers, and supporters,<br />

we have just succeeded in exceeding our funding goals<br />

after a month of seeking backers for the project.<br />

All of us involved in this believe there is no single solution<br />

to the problems that have beset the Banggai Cardinalfish.<br />

Our goals are to help foster a healthier, more<br />

sustainable fishery for wild specimens, to find protocols<br />

for commercial-scale mariculture and aquaculture, to<br />

establish better methods for hobbyists wishing to breed<br />

this species to meet local demands, and to publish the<br />

whole story and all of the lessons learned in CORAL and<br />

in the Banggai project book. In this, we value the interest,<br />

suggestions, criticisms, and involvement of the entire<br />

CORAL community.<br />

James Lawrence<br />

www.banggai-rescue.com<br />

CORAL<br />

7


correspondence from our readers<br />

THE THREAT OF TANKED<br />

I think that Mr. Mark Grabow, in his answer to my letter<br />

about [the TV show] Tanked, is indeed missing the whole<br />

point. (January/February CORAL Letters.)<br />

The more we learn about the animals we keep, the<br />

more we know that an aquarium is much more than<br />

simple “laboratory” equipment in which we just need to<br />

keep proper salinity, oxygen, pH, nitrogen, and phosphorus.<br />

No matter how pristine your tank chemistry, stress<br />

will be a serious issue unless the<br />

environment has the required<br />

“complexity” of the animals’ natural<br />

habitats. And stress will lead<br />

to disease and early death.<br />

Moreover, those disgusting<br />

posh fishbowls offer no educational<br />

value at all. It is completely<br />

impossible to observe anything<br />

resembling the natural behavior<br />

of a fish inside those phone<br />

booths and gimmick-filled boxes.<br />

Which of course leads to the attacks<br />

to which aquarium keeping<br />

is being subject right now.<br />

Aquarium keeping can be<br />

done in an ethical way. Aquarium<br />

keeping can have an outstanding<br />

educational value. But of course<br />

I am speaking about aquariums,<br />

not bizarre fish bowls. Tanked is<br />

a real threat, maybe one of the<br />

worst, to the credibility of aquarium keepers and the<br />

whole aquarium industry.<br />

Borje Markos<br />

Algorta, Vizcaya, Spain<br />

ZEN & THE ART OF AQUARIUMS<br />

My husband and I were excited to hear of the Animal<br />

Planet show Tanked from a non-aquarist neighbor, but<br />

were very disappointed once we actually saw it. Tanked<br />

more closely resembled a slap-dash DIY home remodeling<br />

segment than an educational and environmentally<br />

responsible introduction to the hobby we love.<br />

We wondered what sort of hefty service contracts the<br />

obviously wealthy clients of Tanked had agreed to pay for.<br />

Obviously they knew nothing about their new equipment<br />

or the new creatures in their care. Would they be<br />

willing to take care of it all, or would they would simply<br />

throw money at their cool new piece of “aquarium furniture”<br />

by paying someone else to deal with the upkeep?<br />

We decided they’d definitely pay.<br />

While I was watching the first episode, the book Zen<br />

and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance came to mind. The<br />

book explains that having a motorcycle requires a steady<br />

commitment to continually educate yourself in order to<br />

understand the complex details of its essence. Gaining<br />

understanding is part of the joy of ownership, and only<br />

comes from time spent in handson<br />

experience. We think having<br />

a marine aquarium brings the<br />

same responsibilities to its owner.<br />

It would be interesting to see<br />

some expert, one-on-one maintenance<br />

mentoring in Tanked, but<br />

instead, we get the “wow factor”<br />

of flashy set-ups and super-fast<br />

installations. This show, now<br />

starting a second season, was<br />

produced for our debatable entertainment<br />

pleasure, not to promote<br />

the love of nature or good<br />

husbandry.<br />

If Animal Planet had simply<br />

stuck to what has made other<br />

nature shows great (The Undersea<br />

World of Jacques Cousteau, Wild<br />

Kingdom, Nova), the result would<br />

have been of much better quality<br />

and much more interesting.<br />

We are in complete agreement with the sentiments<br />

expressed by reader Borje Markos and feel that Tanked<br />

casts us all in a very unfavorable light.<br />

Dianne Krogh<br />

Oak Harbor, Washington<br />

MARINE BREEDERS INVITATION<br />

Kudos to CORAL for the excellent cover stories on breeding<br />

successes in the March/April issue. Serious and<br />

would-be breeders are invited to attend the 3rd Annual<br />

Marine Breeders Initiative Workshop on July 28 at the<br />

Cranbrook Institute of Science in Bloomfield Hills, MI.<br />

Tal Sweet<br />

www.mbiworkshop.com<br />

Readers are invited to write the Editor:<br />

Editors@CoralMagazine-US.com<br />

8 CORAL


Purchasing Marine Animals Will Never Be The Same.<br />

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shed some light on yours.<br />

Look for QM labels on tanks at your LFS<br />

Scan this QR code to get the lowdown on a fish<br />

before you buy! What it is, what it eats, if it’s<br />

social, even where it came from and when it<br />

was shipped! Available at Quality Retailers.<br />

Look for the<br />

New QM Label<br />

Visit www.qualitymarine.com for more information


NEWS<br />

findings and happenings of note in the marine world<br />

Remembering Bill Addison:<br />

“Fishes would see him and spawn”<br />

It was on the evening of February 17th that we received<br />

word from long-time fish breeder and friend Joe Lichtenbert.<br />

“Some very sad news,” wrote Lichtenbert. “Bill passed<br />

away in his sleep last night…. Although Bill suffered<br />

from diabetes requiring daily injections, pretty bad arthritis,<br />

and macular degeneration, he never complained.<br />

His famous words of wisdom were ‘So be it!’<br />

“Bill was a WWII vet. His personal exploits would<br />

make you proud to be an American. The family is not<br />

planning any of the normal services. Instead, he will be<br />

cremated and his ashes will be spread across the mountain<br />

passes in his home state of Wyoming that he so<br />

loved. I, and the world, have lost a great and inspirational<br />

man.”<br />

William Middleton Addison’s obituary was published<br />

on February 22 in the Platte County Record-Times<br />

and gives us insights beyond the man who was known in<br />

the aquarium world as Bill Addison, pioneering marine<br />

fish breeder and founder of C-Quest Hatchery.<br />

In his 85 years of life, Addison accomplished and<br />

saw more than most, and as Matthew L. Wittenrich retells<br />

it,“He dug his first uranium mine by hand, amassed<br />

a collection of antique cars, and set up a tropical fruit<br />

plantation in Central America and a fish hatchery in<br />

Puerto Rico.”<br />

Indeed, Addision served in World War II as a Marine,<br />

returning afterward to graduate from high school<br />

and attend college. He married his wife, Arline, in 1952.<br />

Addison mined uranium and, later, white marble in<br />

Wyoming. Ultimately, Addison sold the mining business<br />

to pursue his other interests, including the C-Quest<br />

Marine breeding<br />

pioneer Bill Addison<br />

at his C-Quest<br />

hatchery.<br />

M.L. WITTENRICH<br />

10 CORAL


Hatchery in Puerto Rico, which was moved to Wyoming<br />

in 2010, as reported on Reefbuilders.com in August 2010.<br />

C-Quest, founded in 1988, is the oldest operating<br />

marine ornamental fish hatchery in the country. In<br />

1997, Joyce Wilkerson wrote an extensive piece about the<br />

C-Quest facility in Puerto Rico. The author of Clownfishes<br />

(Microcosm, 1998), Wilkerson worked with Bill<br />

Addison for a number of years before her death in 2007.<br />

It is interesting to note Wilkerson’s concern over the<br />

loss of several hatcheries in the late 1990s, leaving only<br />

C-Quest and Joe Lichtenbert’s Reef Propagations, Inc.<br />

producing captive-bred marine fish for the aquarium industry.<br />

These businesses fought an uphill battle for profitability<br />

that seems to rage on today.<br />

When Lichtenbert retired in 2010, only C-Quest was<br />

left standing from that early era. C-Quest, now under<br />

the leadership of Addison’s daughter, Katy, continues to<br />

operate, continually extending the longevity record for a<br />

commercial marine ornamental hatchery.<br />

—Matt Pedersen & the staff of CORAL<br />

Keep your eyes open at the fish market!<br />

If you want to discover a new fish species, you don’t necessarily<br />

have to go diving in the depths of the ocean.<br />

Sometimes it is enough to take a look at the offerings of<br />

a fish market, as species unknown to science have been<br />

found there astonishingly frequently. However, to spot<br />

such fishes you need not only an extensive knowledge<br />

of the fish groups in question but a well-trained eye for<br />

detail.<br />

For example, a group of taxonomists were recently<br />

wandering around at the Tashi Fish Market in northeastern<br />

Taiwan. They were primarily looking for freshly<br />

landed sharks to compare with preserved material caught<br />

decades previously, in order to check for changes that<br />

had occurred. But what they actually discovered was a<br />

basket containing sharks of the order Squaliformes that<br />

even they, as experts, couldn’t identify. Male and female<br />

specimens were taken back to the research laboratory<br />

and examined in detail. The scientists established that<br />

the fishes were strikingly different from the new species<br />

previously known. This ultimately led to the scientific<br />

description of the species as Squalus formosus, with the<br />

species epithet formosus referring to the former name<br />

of Taiwan: Ilha Formosa, which is the Portuguese for<br />

“beautiful island.”<br />

That this was no isolated case is illustrated by the famous<br />

discovery made by the South African lay biologist<br />

Marjorie Courtenay-Latimer. On December 23, 1938,<br />

she found an unusual fish, 59 inches (150 cm) long, in a<br />

large catch of fishes. She immediately realized that it had<br />

to be a species that science had previously regarded as extinct:<br />

the coelacanth. This is an ancient fish with fleshy<br />

Nadelkopf?<br />

The influence of German on reef aquarium<br />

keeping is evident in the use of words like<br />

“Kalkwasser.” But something gets lost in<br />

the translation when you talk about a pin<br />

cap in German. Like “pinhead” in English,<br />

“nadelkopf” is slang for “stupid person.”<br />

A pin cap on a glue dispensing bottle is<br />

not a stupid idea. On the contrary, it’s one<br />

of those handy Little details that’s pretty<br />

clever. Next time you need a big quantity<br />

of adhesive for your aquascaping and<br />

coral fragging activities, just reach for our<br />

CorAffixPro, ten ounces of fast-curing,<br />

easy to use, ultra pure cyanoacrylate gel<br />

with a 2 year shelf life, and a pin cap<br />

to keep the tip from clogging.<br />

Need something big?<br />

Think Little.<br />

www.twolittlefishies.com<br />

12 CORAL


Keep your eyes open at the fish<br />

market, as species unknown to science<br />

can turn up there.<br />

D. KNOP<br />

fins that it can use alternately<br />

when swimming, which may have<br />

facilitated its descendants moving<br />

onto land. For this reason is<br />

has been surmised that this fish<br />

and terrestrial vertebrates share a<br />

common ancestor that represents<br />

the transition from aquatic to terrestrial<br />

vertebrates. As head of the<br />

Museum of Marine Biology in the<br />

South African town of East London,<br />

Courtenay-Latimer was able<br />

to select interesting specimens<br />

for her museum from every major<br />

catch made locally, even before it was offered for sale in<br />

the fish market. She attempted to preserve this rare specimen<br />

as a matter of urgency by wrapping it in formalinsoaked<br />

cloths, and she made a drawing of it. When it was<br />

subsequently scientifically described, the genus newly<br />

erected for the fish, Latimeria, was named in her honor<br />

and the species after the place where it was discovered<br />

(chalumnae). It wasn’t until 1987 that the German biologist<br />

and animal photographer Professor Hans Fricke discovered<br />

the natural habitat of the coelacanth.<br />

In 1997 and 1998 the German biologist Dr. Mark<br />

Erdmann and his wife, still students at the time, created<br />

a further sensation by discovering dead coelacanths<br />

at a fish market in Manado at the northernmost tip of<br />

Sulawesi (Indonesia), around 6,200 miles (10,000 km)<br />

from the spot where Latimeria chalumnae was originally<br />

discovered. Professor Fricke began a new underwater<br />

search there and eventually tracked down this second<br />

CORAL<br />

13


The coelacanth Latimeria chalumnae—this is<br />

a plastic model—was discovered by Marjorie<br />

Courtenay-Latimer at a fish market.<br />

Latimeria species, the Manado Coelacanth<br />

(Latimeria menadoensis), in its<br />

natural habitat. So far more than 500 live<br />

coelacanths have been found and many<br />

of them have been intensively observed<br />

and studied. So, keep your eyes open at<br />

the fish market!<br />

—Daniel Knop<br />

REFERENCES:<br />

White, W.T. and S.P. Iglesias. 2011. Squalus<br />

formosus, a new species of spurdog shark<br />

(Squaliformes: Squalidae) from the western<br />

North Pacific Ocean. J Fish Biol, doi:10.1111/j.<br />

1095-8649.2011.03068.x<br />

Acidification<br />

of the Mediterranean<br />

The world’s seas absorb around a quarter<br />

of the carbon dioxide (CO 2 ) emissions<br />

that result from the use of fossil<br />

fuels and deforestation. That represents<br />

around a million tons of carbon dioxide<br />

per hour. This leads to changes in the<br />

chemical composition of the seas, in particular<br />

an increase in acidity. The increase<br />

poses a threat to the organisms that form<br />

skeletons or shells of calcium carbonate—corals<br />

and mollusks, for example.<br />

Jean-Pierre Gattuso of the Laboratory for<br />

Oceanography in Villefranche-sur-mer<br />

(CNRS/UPMC) and his colleagues have<br />

conducted an international study on this<br />

theme. The results have been published in<br />

the journal Nature Climate Change.<br />

The researchers chose corals, crustaceans,<br />

and mollusks from around the<br />

island of Ischia (Gulf of Naples, Italy),<br />

as the water there is already excessively<br />

acidified by natural sources of CO 2 as a<br />

D. KNOP<br />

14 CORAL


The warming of the seas is not the only cause of the demise of numerous calcium<br />

carbonate–forming organisms. Decreasing pH is an additional factor.<br />

Calcium carbonate–forming organisms such as<br />

corals and mollusks (this is the Green Chiton,<br />

Chiton olivaceus) are reaching their limits of<br />

tolerance with regard to ocean warming. The<br />

concomitant decrease in pH often results in<br />

mass die-offs.<br />

D. KNOP<br />

result of the volcanic activity of Mount<br />

Vesuvius. Using radioactive isotopes, they<br />

were able to show that calcium carbonate<br />

production by these organisms is possible<br />

even at the acidity level expected for the<br />

year 2100 (pH 7.8, compared to a current<br />

pH of 8.1). The tissue and the organic<br />

layers that coat the skeletons and shells<br />

of these organisms play an important<br />

role in protecting their calcium carbonate<br />

structures. The parts that aren’t protected<br />

by tissue or organic molecules are<br />

more vulnerable and dissolve rapidly, depending<br />

on the acidity of the water. The<br />

researchers demonstrated that resistance<br />

is significantly reduced the longer these<br />

organisms are exposed to unusually high<br />

temperatures (83.3°F [28.5°C]). Thus<br />

their mortality rate rises in line with the<br />

acidity.<br />

Some marine invertebrates are already<br />

living at temperatures close to their<br />

limits of tolerance, and this periodically<br />

leads to mass die-offs. The combination<br />

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CORAL<br />

15


of the warming of the Mediterranean and the acidification<br />

of its water will lead to a further increase in this<br />

phenomenon.<br />

—IDW/Marie de Chalup<br />

REFERENCES<br />

Rodolfo-Metalpa, R. et al. 2011. Coral and mollusc resistance to<br />

ocean acidification adversely affected by warming. Nature Clim<br />

Change 1: 308–312.<br />

300 little giant octopuses<br />

The sight of the 300 recently hatched larvae of the Giant<br />

Pacific Octopus (Enteroctopus dofleini) in the Vancouver<br />

Aquarium Marine Science Center engenders<br />

mixed feelings. The reproduction of<br />

animals in captivity is usually a reason<br />

for celebration, but this case is different<br />

for two reasons. First, these mollusks are<br />

relatively short-lived (their natural life<br />

span is only three to five years), and they<br />

typically die after breeding. The male dies<br />

shortly after mating with the female, and<br />

she survives only till the young hatch at<br />

the end of the punishing brooding phase,<br />

during which she takes no food. That is<br />

what happened to Vancouver’s male, and<br />

the female was expected to die as soon as<br />

her young had hatched.<br />

The second reason is<br />

that it is really difficult<br />

to rear the larvae of this<br />

species. It has proved possible<br />

to get them past the<br />

planktonic stage on one<br />

or two occasions, but this<br />

phase lasts an extremely<br />

long time (7–10 months),<br />

and losses are enormous during this period,<br />

even with optimal maintenance. Of<br />

course, the staff at the aquarium will do<br />

everything in their power to rear at least a<br />

few of the larvae, if only to broaden their<br />

knowledge of breeding cephalopods. They<br />

are all prepared for some exciting months<br />

of very hard work and happy to take up<br />

the challenge, but their expectation of<br />

success is not very high.<br />

Enteroctopus dofleini lives in the cool<br />

waters of the northern Pacific between<br />

California and Japan. It is the largest of<br />

all the octopuses; its body attains around<br />

24 inches (60 cm) in diameter and the<br />

arms about 80 inches (200 cm) in length,<br />

although the literature is full of gross exaggerations<br />

regarding length and body<br />

mass, such as an overall span of 30 feet<br />

(9 m) or a weight of up to 660 pounds<br />

(300 kg). As a rule they attain around<br />

100 pounds (45 kg), although they can<br />

get up to 165 pounds (75 kg). The largest<br />

specimens weighed supposedly tipped the<br />

scales at 300 and 401 pounds (136 and<br />

182 kg).<br />

In summer the adults migrate to<br />

deeper water to mate; in autumn the females<br />

return to shallow water to produce<br />

their clutches, which typically consist of<br />

20,000–70,000 eggs, sometimes up to<br />

100,000. The female guards her eggs con-<br />

16 CORAL


Enteroctopus dofleini is the<br />

largest species of octopus<br />

known, shown here in the<br />

aquarium with chilled water.<br />

The tentacles of<br />

Enteroctopus dofleini.<br />

D. KNOP<br />

tinuously until they hatch and, as mentioned earlier, takes no food during<br />

this period. Her genetic programming dictates the approaching end of her<br />

life, so it would be counter-productive to leave the eggs in order to go hunting<br />

and feed. The number of larvae that hatch appears to be significantly higher<br />

when the female octopus sacrifices herself to guard her clutch permanently<br />

than is the case when the eggs are incubated separately.<br />

—Daniel Knop<br />

REFERENCES<br />

Norman, M. 2000. Tintenfisch-Führer—Kraken, Argonauten, Sepien, Kalmare, Nautiliden.<br />

Jahr Verlag, Hamburg, Germany.<br />

CORAL<br />

17


Parenting comes at a price for male<br />

cardinalfish<br />

Being a great father can mean starving to protect the<br />

kids, putting up with a jealous spouse and, often, dying<br />

young—at least, if you are a marine cardinalfish.<br />

A survival strategy that has been a triumphant success<br />

for cardinalfishes for going on 50 million years<br />

could come unstuck due to rapid global warming, say<br />

scientists from the ARC Centre of Excellence for Coral<br />

Reef Studies and James Cook University.<br />

“We studied how cardinalfishes have evolved over<br />

millions of years and found that these mouthbrooders<br />

haven’t changed much. Their jaw cavities have become<br />

larger for keeping more young in their mouths, and their<br />

colors are different, but that’s about it,” explains Professor<br />

David Bellwood, a researcher in the study.<br />

While other fishes have evolved by changing shape<br />

and broadening their diet, the mouthbrooding fishes remain<br />

simple feeders that eat mainly plankton. This can<br />

be bad news when food is scarce.<br />

With a lifespan of about two years, cardinalfishes<br />

breed several times a year, mostly in summer. Instead<br />

of laying thousands of eggs in a batch as other fishes do,<br />

they lay hundreds of slightly larger eggs. When the female<br />

releases the eggs, the male gathers them into a tight<br />

bundle, which he keeps safe in his mouth for a couple<br />

of weeks until the young hatch and become<br />

free-swimming.<br />

“These eggs occupy up to 100 percent<br />

of the oral cavity, and the dad’s<br />

mouth expands and looks like a large<br />

bubble,” says Dr. Andrew Hoey, who<br />

conducted the study. It’s a wonder that<br />

they can even breathe. They don’t feed,<br />

but live on stored energy and stay sedentary<br />

in and around corals.<br />

“The females play the role of jealous<br />

wives. They stay close to the males,<br />

not to help rear the kids, but to prevent<br />

other females from swimming off with<br />

such a desirable mate. Our guess is<br />

these stay-at-home dads are very much<br />

in demand.”<br />

Although the 50-million-year-old<br />

breeding technique has proved successful<br />

so far, providing large and happy<br />

families for cardinalfishes, their future<br />

is looking grim, Bellwood says.<br />

Apart from being left behind in<br />

terms of evolution, mouthbrooding<br />

makes them more vulnerable to the effects<br />

of climate change. “As ocean temperatures<br />

warm, these fishes will need to<br />

breathe more, and having a mouthful of<br />

offspring will hinder their ability to take<br />

in oxygen.” The other problem is the increasing<br />

lack of shelter as corals around<br />

the world die from bleaching and disease—cardinalfishes<br />

are popular prey for<br />

larger predatory fishes like coral trout.<br />

“These fishes are very attached to<br />

their homes; they like to stay under<br />

branching corals, and they come back to<br />

the same little patch day after day,” Bellwood<br />

says. He points out that branching<br />

corals are one of the types that are most<br />

vulnerable to climate change, so if they<br />

perish as a result of bleaching or disease,<br />

the cardinalfishes will be exposed and<br />

18 CORAL


Above: A male cardinalfish Siphamia<br />

argentea carries its young in its mouth.<br />

Right: Small eyes look out from the safety<br />

of a parent’s mouth: do cardinalfishes pay a<br />

price for good parenting? A male brooding<br />

Cheilodipterus sp.<br />

vulnerable. “When the coral cover declines,<br />

they’re going to be homeless, just<br />

sitting there with babies in their mouths<br />

and struggling to breathe. Their problems<br />

will be exacerbated by a shortage<br />

of food because of their narrow diets. In<br />

short, these stay-at-home dads have sacrificed<br />

job options, and even their lives,<br />

to provide top-notch parental care for<br />

their young. Just imagine what your life<br />

would be like if you had a toddler hanging<br />

from your teeth!<br />

“This has proved a highly successful<br />

survival strategy for 50 million years, but<br />

under rapid global warming, there is a big<br />

risk it could come unstuck. This is another<br />

example of the profound impact that<br />

humans are having on life on Earth.”<br />

KORALIA &<br />

SMARTWAVE<br />

CONTROLLER<br />

P U M P<br />

RUDIE KUITER<br />

REFERENCES:<br />

The paper, “To feed or to breed:<br />

morphological constraints of<br />

mouthbrooding in coral reef cardinalfishes,”<br />

by Andrew S. Hoey, David R. Bellwood, and<br />

Adam Barnett, appears in Proceedings of the<br />

Royal Society B: Biological Sciences.<br />

ON THE INTERNET:<br />

Hoey, A.S., D.R. Bellwood, and A. Barnett.<br />

2012. Proceedings of the Royal Society B:<br />

Biological Sciences, 2/8/12:<br />

http://rspb.royalsocietypublishing.org/<br />

content/early/2012/02/06/rspb.2011.2679/<br />

suppl/DC1<br />

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CORAL<br />

19


Inspired<br />

by Mother<br />

Nature.<br />

Engineered by<br />

®<br />

Swiss or Hairy Commensal Shrimp—Sandimenes hirsutus<br />

It’s difficult to think of anything more unusual: this tiny partner shrimp<br />

from the South Pacific was previously completely unknown to us, and even<br />

the Internet has very few pictorial references for Sandimenes hirsutus. The<br />

specimen pictured here was probably an accidental import to Switzerland,<br />

where I found it at SwissAquaristik. In the absence of any alternative, and not<br />

entirely seriously, I have permitted myself to name it the Swiss Commensal<br />

Shrimp because of its bright red body color with white lines, the colors of the<br />

Swiss flag. Formerly known as Periclimenes hirsutus, this little shrimp, barely<br />

0.75 inches (2 cm) long, was given its own genus in 2009 to recognize the<br />

unusual tufts of setae on its body and appendages. It probably lives commensally<br />

with sea urchins in its natural habitat, possibly with the poisonous and<br />

equally attractive red Astropyga radiata.<br />

—Inken Krause<br />

ON THE INTERNET:<br />

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20 CORAL<br />

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Text & images by SCOTT W. MICHAEL<br />

Exquisite example<br />

of a Dragon Moray,<br />

Enchelycore pardalis, in<br />

the Izu Islands, Japan.<br />

The Dragon Moray<br />

Enchelycore pardalis<br />

There may be no other fish on a coral reef that is as menacing<br />

and beautiful as the Dragon Moray (Enchelycore<br />

pardalis). With its curved jaws, ever-bared teeth, and<br />

flaring, horn-like nostrils, it gives the impression that it<br />

is waiting for a chance to strike, to sink its razor-sharp<br />

fangs into you—or some unsuspecting fish passing by.<br />

But this malevolent countenance is offset by an alluring<br />

color pattern that includes dark-edged spots,<br />

bands, and, in some individuals, flaming orange pigment<br />

that would make any designer of Aloha Hawaiian<br />

shirts proud. Its relative rarity in areas where most fish<br />

collecting occurs, as well as its ornate physique and the<br />

resulting demand for it among advanced aquarists, has<br />

made the Dragon Moray a pricey acquisition. But unlike<br />

some of the rarest, most unique marine species, such<br />

as the Rhinopias scorpionfish (see CORAL, March/April<br />

2012), this animal is relatively easy to keep and can live<br />

for many years in captivity.<br />

Here we will look at the scant information available<br />

on the natural history of this distinctive moray, as well<br />

as explore how to best keep this muraenid beauty in your<br />

home aquarium.<br />

DRAGONS IN THE FIELD<br />

Relatively little is known about the life history of Enchelycore<br />

pardalis. It is wide-ranging, occurring from Zanzibar<br />

22 CORAL


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CORAL<br />

23


off the coast of East Africa, east to the Hawaiian and<br />

Marquesas Islands, north to southern Japan, and south<br />

to New Caledonia, off northeastern Australia. But while<br />

it has an expansive distribution, it is reportedly scarce<br />

over much of its known range. I had been diving for decades<br />

before encountering one of these amazing morays<br />

in situ. It wasn’t for lack of trying—they are just not that<br />

common in the areas where most people go to observe<br />

and photograph fishes.<br />

Then I was asked to escort<br />

a good friend of mine, underwater<br />

photographer extraordinaire<br />

Roger Steene, to Osezaki<br />

and the Izu Islands in Japan.<br />

On my first shore dive at Osezaki,<br />

I saw a relatively blandcolored<br />

E. pardalis and was<br />

“gutted” when I realized I was<br />

out of film (yes, it was back<br />

in the age of film, which some<br />

of us still refuse to let fade).<br />

Although it had been an excellent<br />

dive prior to this moment,<br />

I came out of the water<br />

grumbling, because I was sure<br />

I had missed my only opportunity<br />

to photograph this eel<br />

in the wild. But, boy, was I<br />

wrong! Over the next several<br />

weeks we saw more than 50<br />

Dragon Morays. In fact, this<br />

species, along with the Kidako<br />

Moray (Gymnothorax kidako),<br />

were the most common muraenids<br />

we encountered.<br />

In southern Japan, the<br />

preferred habitat of E. pardalis<br />

is boulder-strewn bottoms.<br />

They refuge within the interstices<br />

among large corallineencrusted<br />

boulders. During<br />

my weeks in southern Japan,<br />

I also saw these morays partially<br />

hidden between smaller<br />

rocks, in crevices under limestone<br />

overhangs, and in large<br />

fissures in large rocky pinnacles<br />

and outcroppings. In<br />

other locations (for instance,<br />

in the Hawaiian Islands), they<br />

are reported to live among<br />

branching Porites corals.<br />

In the majority of cases,<br />

only the head of the Dragon<br />

is seen protruding from its<br />

refuge. It is likely that most<br />

relocation and hunting occurs after dark. The younger<br />

E. pardalis are apparently even more cryptic than larger<br />

conspecifics—they are rarely seen or collected. Off southern<br />

Japan, I observed the Dragon Moray at depths of 5<br />

to 88 feet (1.5 to 27 m); however, it has been reported<br />

down to depths of 163 feet (50 m). Hawaiian underwater<br />

photographers Keoki and Yuko Stender say the species<br />

is “relatively rare at scuba depths around the main<br />

Dragon Moray sharing its<br />

lair with a Banded Coral<br />

Shrimp. Note the eel’s<br />

jaws, which become more<br />

elongated as it grows.<br />

24 CORAL


Hawaiian Islands, but common in the cooler waters of<br />

the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.”<br />

These eels usually live a solitary life style. While I<br />

never saw them sharing a “hide,” I occasionally have<br />

found more than one within “spitting distance” of others.<br />

Nothing is known about the spawning behavior of<br />

this eel, nor is information available on its diet in the<br />

wild. The large mouth and long, sharp teeth are indicative<br />

of a piscivorous diet. There are also reports in the<br />

popular literature, including my own book (Michael<br />

1998), that this species relishes cephalopods (namely,<br />

octopuses). While this is likely, once again I have yet to<br />

find food habit studies that confirm it.<br />

These morays may look too fearsome for most predators<br />

to tackle, but young Dragons are eaten by sea kraits<br />

(Laticauda spp.). These amphibious snakes have small<br />

heads, which they use to probe into reef crevices and<br />

holes and extract hiding morays. In fact, there are a<br />

number of species in the genus Laticauda that specialize<br />

in eating conger and moray eels.<br />

DRAGON CARE<br />

As noted above, price will dissuade most aquarists from<br />

keeping one of these eels, but for those who are willing<br />

to drop some Benjamins, there are some things you<br />

will want to bear in mind before making the investment.<br />

One of the first things to consider is whether you are going<br />

to keep the eel on its own or with other fishes. I think<br />

these eels are spectacular enough to hold<br />

their own in a species aquarium. You<br />

will want to house a solitary, full-grown<br />

E. pardalis in a tank of 75 to 135 gallons<br />

(284–511 L).<br />

If you are going to keep your Dragon<br />

with other fishes, it is imperative that<br />

the tank be large enough and that you<br />

select tankmates very carefully. This is<br />

important not only for the well-being of<br />

the moray’s tankmates, but also for the<br />

Dragon itself. You need a tank of at least<br />

180 gallons (681 L) for a fish community<br />

tank that contains a medium-sized E.<br />

pardalis. If you have a full-grown Dragon<br />

Moray, the tank should be even larger<br />

(minimum of 240 gallons, or 908 L). The<br />

more room there is, the more likely the<br />

eel and its tankmates are going to live in<br />

harmony. Of course, in addition to a sizable<br />

aquarium, the moray and its tankmates<br />

will need adequate filtration to<br />

handle the bioload.<br />

Larger fishes make the best Dragon<br />

neighbors—the body depth of the potential<br />

tankmates should be at least twice<br />

that of the eel’s girth. Possible Dragon<br />

tankmates include groupers, snappers,<br />

grunts, sweetlips, batfishes, large surgeonfishes,<br />

and rabbitfishes. Dragons do<br />

have a mixed reputation when it comes to<br />

“playing well with others.” For example,<br />

the company I work for keeps a 30-inch<br />

(76-cm) Dragon in a large tank with medium-to-large<br />

fishes, and it rarely, if ever,<br />

has caused problems. In fact, we have not<br />

been able to attribute any fish death to<br />

the eel.<br />

That said, I have seen them knock off<br />

or injure sizable piscine tankmates. I certainly<br />

wouldn’t trust this moray enough<br />

to keep it with a prized Pygmy Angelfish<br />

26 CORAL


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Dragon Moray: colors can<br />

range from bright orange<br />

to muted brown and tan<br />

tones.<br />

or fairy wrasse. Long, skinny fish are certainly going to be<br />

ingested by your moray. Also remember that morays often<br />

cue in on and attack fishes that are injured or stressed.<br />

In the case of larger fishes, a Dragon Moray may engage<br />

in “knotting” behavior, which looks similar to a python<br />

constricting its prey. This enables the eel to compress the<br />

prey item’s body so it can swallow it whole, or, if it is too<br />

large to ingest, to rip chunks from the larger prey item.<br />

Beware: some large fish species that are often considered<br />

suitable Dragon neighbors may turn the tables and injure<br />

your moray. Large triggers, puffers (Arothron spp.), and<br />

porcupinefishes have been known to bite at morays—especially<br />

at a tail protruding from the rockwork.<br />

What about keeping a Dragon with other morays?<br />

This is potentially risky, but less so than housing them<br />

with other fishes. There are other morays that will eat<br />

Dragon Morays, namely the Honeycomb Moray (Gymnothorax<br />

favagineus) and the Spotted Moray (G. moringa).<br />

Dragon Morays are not likely to eat other morays,<br />

but they may bite at them when defending a preferred<br />

refuge or competing for food. Their large teeth can inflict<br />

serious wounds on other eels. Morays introduced after<br />

a Dragon Moray has made itself at home are especially<br />

likely to end up with some puncture wounds, but even<br />

resident morays may elicit this eel’s wrath if they are slow<br />

to give up a preferred hiding place. I have seen other eels<br />

that were nearly as long as the Dragon Moray (and well<br />

established in the tank before the E. pardalis was added)<br />

flee to the upper corner of the tank when threatened by<br />

one of these menacing-looking beasts. The threat display<br />

of the Dragon Moray is spectacular—it opens its jaws as<br />

wide as possible, laterally flattens the gill region, cocks its<br />

head to one side, and erects its dorsal fin. The key to keeping<br />

it with other morays is to provide plenty of hiding<br />

places. This means more than one for each moray kept.<br />

Like most morays, the Dragon wants an appropriate<br />

hide in which to refuge during the day. The size of the<br />

caves and crevices are obviously a function of the eel’s<br />

girth and length, so you will have to construct hiding<br />

places accordingly. I am all about natural, so I like to use<br />

live rock (or some of the beautiful faux rock that looks<br />

as though it is encrusted with coralline algae) to create<br />

28 CORAL


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30 CORAL


eef structure. One thing to keep in mind when creating<br />

a Dragon lair is that they have been known to dig under<br />

rockwork by rapidly swishing the tail back and forth,<br />

causing unstable rockwork to cave in. If the rocks are<br />

large enough, they could harm the moray when they collapse.<br />

Place the rockwork on the bottom of the tank (not<br />

on top of the sand bed), using cable ties and putty epoxy<br />

to create sturdy hides. (The Real Reef company creates<br />

awesome-looking rock that looks coralline-encrusted<br />

and is bioactive. They can custom-make fantastic, sturdy<br />

caves for your moray.) Some hardcore moray keepers<br />

prefer PVC pipe of varying diameters. If your Dragon eel<br />

is fully acclimated (eating voraciously), you can take out<br />

some of the rockwork so you can better observe your muraenid<br />

charge. I have seen individuals kept in tanks with<br />

lots of faux coral that only showed themselves when<br />

food was added to the tank.<br />

A newly acquired Dragon Moray will spend much of<br />

its time hiding within the structure of the reef. In fact, if<br />

you have created suitable hiding places, you may not see<br />

much of it for the first week or so. If a moray does not feel<br />

comfortable, it is not likely to eat. So, if your new moray<br />

is refusing food, you should provide more or better hiding<br />

places in order to ensure it “feels” comfortable in its<br />

new home. Other things that can cause fasting are poor<br />

water quality, other fishes (puffers, triggers) picking at<br />

the moray, or overfeeding for an extended period of time.<br />

Long fasts are usually not a great cause of concern, but<br />

it is not a bad idea to do a water change and try different<br />

foods if the eel does not eat for more than a month.<br />

Most Dragon Morays will eat non-living food. The<br />

best foods are strips of fish flesh (such as smelt, orange<br />

roughy, or haddock) and squid. Impale the food on the<br />

end of a feeding stick (a length of rigid airline with a<br />

sharpened end to pierce the food will do) and move it<br />

in front of the eel’s head. One thing we moray lovers<br />

are prone to doing that is not good for our eels is to<br />

feed them too often. This leads to an accumulation of fat<br />

that can affect liver function. Field studies suggest that<br />

morays eat infrequently, so in order to prevent this condition<br />

I recommend feeding your eel to satiation twice a<br />

week. Also, an overfed moray may regurgitate its partially<br />

digested meal, which can make a mess of your tank.<br />

On rare occasions, a frisky Dragon Moray, possibly<br />

incited by the presence of food, may snap at passing fish<br />

(even those too large to swallow) and cause injuries. I<br />

find that controlled food presentation—that is, putting<br />

food in front of the moray’s face with tongs or a feeding<br />

stick—is the best way to keep the eel calmer. Throwing<br />

live feeder fish in the tank is more likely to make the<br />

moray dart about and indiscriminately snap at passing<br />

tankmates.<br />

The Dragon Moray can be kept in a reef tank if you<br />

are willing to put up with the mechanical damage it may<br />

cause to your corals. The best way to prevent this is to<br />

make sure the corals are firmly affixed to the larger rock-<br />

Are you attached to your corals?<br />

Corals are not only beautiful, they’re precious. You really have to give them a secure<br />

attachment because bonding with corals promotes a long-term relationship.<br />

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with clay-like consistency for easy attachment of corals. Their natural colors blend with<br />

rock. Both colors are available in 2oz and 4oz sizes.<br />

CorAffix is an ethyl cyanoacrylate bonding compound with viscosity similar to honey.<br />

Use it for attaching stony corals, gorgonians, and other sessile invertebrates in natural<br />

positions on live rock, or use in combination with AquaStik to attach larger coral heads.<br />

CorAffix Gel is an ethyl cyanoacrylate bonding compound with a thick gel consistency.<br />

It is very easy to use for attaching frags of stony corals, zoanthids, and some soft corals to<br />

plugs or bases.<br />

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CORAL<br />

31


work. The Dragon Moray may also eat some motile invertebrates<br />

(namely ornamental crustaceans), but they<br />

can be kept with cleaner shrimps (Lysmata amboinensis,<br />

L. debelius) and boxing shrimps (Stenopus hispidus). It is<br />

best to acclimate these shrimps to the aquarium before<br />

adding the moray.<br />

PRECAUTIONS<br />

A few final words of caution to anyone thinking about<br />

keeping a moray: These animals are the Houdinis of the<br />

bony fish world. They will slip out of any opening in the<br />

aquarium top and end up dried up on the floor (possibly<br />

many feet from their aquarium home). Larger individuals<br />

have even been implicated in pushing the glass top<br />

off a tank before making their escape. Any moray aquarium<br />

should have a secure top with no escape holes; put<br />

something heavy on the top (I have used dive weights) if<br />

you are keeping a larger specimen. They have also been<br />

known to slip into corner overflow boxes and wind up on<br />

the pre-filter in the sump or in the sump itself.<br />

Then there is the issue of being bitten by your pet<br />

Dragon. This species is not known for aggressive behavior<br />

in the wild, but it can inflict serious puncture and<br />

slash wounds if not treated with respect. Any eel bite<br />

wound should be cleaned and washed with warm water<br />

and soap; rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide are no<br />

longer recommended for first aid treatment of cuts and<br />

bites. You may wish to rinse the wound with a sterile saline<br />

solution and use an antibiotic ointment or rinse. If<br />

the bite is deep, medical attention should be sought. The<br />

worst outcome from a minor moray bite is usually an<br />

infection triggered by bacteria in the eel’s mouth; such<br />

an infection can become serious or even prove fatal if<br />

not treated.<br />

Bites should be easy to avoid: never, ever hand-feed<br />

an eel, and generally follow the rule about keeping your<br />

hands out of the tank. Use long-handled tools to feed<br />

and move items in the tank. If you need to reach in, consider<br />

using a long-handled net of an appropriate size as a<br />

screen to block the eel from attacking. Most eel bites in<br />

aquariums result from the moray instinctively defending<br />

its territory or mistaking a finger for a food item.<br />

While they are not for everyone, a Dragon Moray can<br />

make a stunning display animal and a fascinating pet.<br />

If you take the necessary precautions and practice good<br />

aquarium husbandry, your Dragon should happily dwell<br />

in its aquarium lair for many years.<br />

REFERENCES<br />

Michael, S.W. 1998. Reef Fishes, Volume 1. Microcosm/TFH,<br />

Neptune City, New Jersey.<br />

ON THE INTERNET:<br />

Keoki and Yuko Stender’s Marinelife Photography:<br />

http://www.marinelifephotography.com/fishes/eels/<br />

enchelycore-pardalis.htm<br />

32 CORAL


thrIVE<br />

CORAL<br />

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opinion by MATT PEDERSEN<br />

POINT<br />

The Aquarium Ark<br />

Can marine aquarists provide a safety net<br />

for endangered species and aquatic diversity?<br />

The first time I publicly expressed my concerns for the future of coral<br />

reefs, I got a bit choked up and teary-eyed. Standing in front of a small<br />

gathering of marine fish breeders, I said that I wanted to make sure<br />

my children, when I had them, would be able to experience the coral<br />

reef life forms and species we all treasure. It was embarrassing—a guy<br />

about to start his fourth decade on the planet, getting emotional in<br />

front of a group of people he had just met.<br />

The author with<br />

an invasive<br />

lionfish in the<br />

Florida Keys.<br />

Years later, I’m married and that hypothetical child is my son, Ethan. As the father of an<br />

enchanting young soul whom I come to appreciate more each day, I ask myself again—will<br />

it all be here when he’s old enough to appreciate it? The short answer is that it depends on<br />

what we marine aquarists collectively do next.<br />

With the cacophony of anti-marine-aquarium sentiment raging all over the country, it<br />

is amazing to contemplate that there’s an entire “second” hobby out there that is at least 10<br />

times bigger and easily more than twice as old, probably harvesting more wild fish (in volume)<br />

each year than ours—yet no one is attacking it. Walk into any store that sells live<br />

tropical aquarium fish and, chances are, you’ll be offered the opportunity to purchase<br />

a species that is at risk, endangered, or even extinct in the wild. Yet there’s no public<br />

outrage, no call to stop the trade in these fishes. You don’t need any special permits to<br />

own them, and no one will hold you in contempt if you accidentally kill them.<br />

Many freshwater fish species are being commercially bred on fish farms, most notably<br />

in Southeast Asia and Florida. Other, less popular species are being bred by a few<br />

individual aquarists who are working, without grants or funding of any sort, to preserve<br />

our planet’s bioheritage. Some species owe their very existence to these volunteer<br />

preservationists. In truth, the freshwater aquarium hobby and industry is a modernday<br />

ark—the last chance for many fish species. What will the marine aquarium hobby<br />

learn from all this?<br />

IST<br />

AQUARIUMS—LUXURIES FOR THE RICH?<br />

There’s no question that keeping a home aquarium is a luxury. Think about it: if you’re<br />

reading this, you probably live in one of the better-off areas of the world. You’re probably<br />

not worried about where your next meal will come from or how you’ll pay for it.<br />

In a world of humanitarian priorities, research funding goes to food-fish culture. We’re far<br />

more concerned about putting protein in people’s bellies than putting fishes in their aquari-<br />

Matt Pedersen is a CORAL senior editor and lives in Duluth, Minnesota.<br />

MATTHEW L. WITTENRICH<br />

34 CORAL


ILLUSTRATION: JOSHUA HIGHTER<br />

ums. For many years now, active aquarists have sensed<br />

that sooner or later, the marine aquarium industry<br />

would become a target of off-kilter environmentalists.<br />

Whether or not the aquarium industry is actually causing<br />

problems, it is highly visible and completely unnecessary<br />

for the basic daily survival of most human beings.<br />

People connect with the fish we keep in our aquariums<br />

on a very emotional level. Children don’t find<br />

Bluefin Tuna particularly cute, but a clownfish stops<br />

them in their tracks. So for someone looking to say they<br />

did something to change the future of our oceans, the<br />

marine aquarium industry—the purpose of which is to<br />

put fishes in tanks just to look at them—makes the perfect<br />

scapegoat. The activist who wants to think she did<br />

something to help can sleep soundly at night, believing<br />

that whether shutting down the aquarium fishery actually<br />

changes anything or not, at least she tried.<br />

AQUARIUMS AND REAL PEOPLE<br />

If we dig deeper, we realize that the aquarium hobby is<br />

not just a luxury pastime. Far from it: It is based on<br />

a multi-million-dollar industry that provides incomes<br />

for untold numbers of people. The indigenous collectors<br />

of wild fishes for aquarium use derive an income from<br />

the fishery that otherwise would be unavailable to them.<br />

Catching damselfishes or wrasses, useless for food, puts<br />

money into their meager household budgets to buy food<br />

for their tables and school supplies for their kids.<br />

Proponents of sustainable aquarium fisheries are<br />

quick to point out that without these aquarium fisheries,<br />

those collectors would turn to more destructive fishing<br />

activities, such as “blast fishing” for edible species.<br />

But despite the many benefits that humankind derives,<br />

in the eyes of those who hate us the costs and possible<br />

negative impacts of aquarium keeping are unjustified.<br />

The truth is that for some fish species, aquariums<br />

aren’t luxuries; they are saviors.<br />

THE ARK IN THE AQUARIUM<br />

Breeding is one of the cornerstones of the freshwater<br />

aquarium hobby, and the majority of freshwater aquarium<br />

fishes are now cultured. Many that are commonplace<br />

in aquarium shops are threatened, endangered, or<br />

even extinct in the wild.<br />

The poster child is a fish I first learned about a few<br />

years ago, the Redtail Shark (Epalzeorhynchos bicolor,<br />

formerly Labeo bicolor). Up until recently, the IUCN Red<br />

List considered this fish extinct in the wild. That status<br />

has been changed to “critically endangered” for the moment—yet<br />

you can walk into any tropical fish shop and<br />

see several of these for sale. Large fish farms in Asia are<br />

rearing huge numbers of this species.<br />

Anti-aquarium activists hear a story like this and often<br />

assume that the aquarium industry is to blame for<br />

the demise of wild populations. Original IUCN writeups<br />

suggested that the cause was a combination of pollu-<br />

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CORAL<br />

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tion and “much needed” dams that were built without<br />

regard for the impact they would have on fish. (IUCN<br />

has tempered the wording, and now lists the likely cause<br />

as “habitat modification.”) It appears that the Redtail<br />

Shark is a victim of human population growth and is<br />

being saved only because we happen to find it attractive.<br />

Another ubiquitous species, the White Cloud<br />

Mountain Minnow (Tanichthys albonubes), is listed<br />

Redtail Shark,<br />

Epalzeorhynchos<br />

bicolor<br />

Endler’s Livebearer, Poecilia wingei:<br />

both of these species are being preserved by aquarium breeding.<br />

on the IUCN Red List—currently as “data deficient”<br />

but formerly as “extinct in the wild,” according to the<br />

C.A.R.E.S. Preservation Program’s citation of its IUCN<br />

status. Despite this, it is one of the undisputed best “beginner<br />

fish,” as it is able to thrive in both unheated and<br />

heated aquariums, easy to breed, extremely resilient,<br />

and quite attractive. This species is not going anywhere<br />

as long as people continue to keep aquariums. I would<br />

be genuinely shocked to walk into an aquarium store<br />

and not encounter one of the many flamboyant variants<br />

of the White Cloud now being offered.<br />

Even though I’ve been aware of the plight of Redtail<br />

Sharks and White Cloud Mountain Minnows, I was surprised<br />

to learn that C.A.R.E.S. considers even the commonly<br />

available Boesmani Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia<br />

boesemani), endemic to only three lakes in Irian Jaya,<br />

Indonesia, to be either at risk or endangered in the wild<br />

(the IUCN lists it as endangered). Even so, I could have<br />

a guilt-free colony of Boesmani Rainbowfish at my doorstep<br />

within a week’s time. This is all possible because of<br />

captive propagation.<br />

DOMESTICATION HAPPENS<br />

Other species are not so lucky. The livebearers are a<br />

group of very popular aquarium fishes that are farmed<br />

in large numbers. However, many of the swordtails and<br />

platies and guppies that we see in every shop are not<br />

what we think they are.<br />

The great majority of them are domesticated forms<br />

that have been selectively bred for decades—a hybrid<br />

cocktail of numerous closely related wild species.<br />

To put this in perspective, the average<br />

swordtail or guppy is the equivalent of the<br />

Snow Onyx or Black Photon designer clownfish.<br />

What’s at risk in the livebearer world<br />

isn’t the next Platinum Percula; it’s the good<br />

old original wild forms—the classic Ocellaris<br />

Clownfish from salt water, Endler’s Livebearer<br />

from fresh water, the natural “default” colorations<br />

and forms of species from which all our<br />

domesticated forms were derived.<br />

Just as Ocellaris and Percula Clownfish<br />

have “cousins” that are rare or unpopular in<br />

the trade, so do the livebearers. These cousins<br />

of the guppies and swordtails don’t share the<br />

relative safety offered by commercial popularity.<br />

They are hanging on only because dedicated<br />

aquarists see the value of natural forms<br />

that wouldn’t stand a chance of capturing the<br />

casual hobbyist’s superficial tastes.<br />

Ameca splendens, the Butterfly Goodeid, is<br />

considered extinct in the wild by C.A.R.E.S.,<br />

Fishbase, and the IUCN. However, according<br />

to the Goodeid Working Group, this species<br />

may still persist in one or more isolated remnant<br />

populations—for example, a lone springhead—but<br />

all it takes is one good drought to<br />

dry up the spring. Despite the extremely precarious existence<br />

of the Butterfly Goodeid, you can acquire this<br />

“extinct” livebearer with relative ease. As I write this in<br />

early April 2012, there are three distinct auctions for<br />

this species on Aquabid.com, and the going rate ranges<br />

from $4.33 to $10 per fish (plus shipping).<br />

How is this possible? Quite simply, it’s an attractive<br />

but currently unpopular species of fish, so it isn’t commercially<br />

produced, but a handful of breeders keep it<br />

solely because it would otherwise be lost. It’s amazing to<br />

think that this species persists only because aquarium<br />

keepers no different than you or I value the natural biodiversity<br />

of our planet and are working to sustain it.<br />

Ameca splendens is far from the only species with this<br />

story. Another critically endangered Goodeid, Zoogoneticus<br />

tequila, is available via multiple online auctions; one<br />

seller calls it “one of the rarest fish kept in the hobby,<br />

thought for over 40 years to be extinct in the wild, now<br />

known to be critically endangered.”<br />

Or consider the plight of the Charco La Palma Pupfish<br />

(Cyprinodon longidorsalis). R. Kik, IV tells the story<br />

TOP: TATJANA RITTNER/SHUTTERSTOCK; BOTTOM: DOBERMARANER/SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

38 CORAL


TK<br />

CORAL<br />

39


PUBLIC AQUARIUMS CANNOT DO IT ALONE<br />

Too often we assume that institutions will somehow<br />

take care of all these problems. After all, we aren’t breeding<br />

gorillas, rhinos, cheetahs, Bali mynahs, or California<br />

condors in our homes. In the public’s eye, species<br />

preservation is in the purview of zoos, institutions, and<br />

nonprofits.<br />

Species preservation is making a lot of demands on<br />

our public aquariums, which are already strapped for<br />

resources in every capacity. Perhaps the best-known institutional<br />

effort in freshwater circles (and a particular<br />

passion of mine) is the Lake Victoria Species Survival<br />

Program (LV SSP) at the Toledo Zoo Aquarium, whose<br />

North American studbook is currently managed by curator<br />

Jay Hemdal.<br />

According to the current LV SSP studbook, there<br />

were 400 historic species of cichlids in Lake Victoria.<br />

Today, the number of species that persist in the lake (or<br />

even only in captivity) is estimated to be 200. Of those,<br />

the SSP currently maintains eight of their highest-priority<br />

species. The rest are left to fend for themselves, be it<br />

in the lake or in the hands of private and commercial<br />

aquarists. Despite truly fantastic beauty that rivals that<br />

of many marine fish, Victorian Cichlids seem to lack<br />

wide commercial popularity. I assume this is due to the<br />

drab coloration of most females and the disappointing<br />

hybrids created by ignorant or indiscriminate breeders<br />

passing off culls as more desirable forms. Victorian<br />

Cichlids have become a “hobbyist” fish for the most<br />

part. Indeed, cichlid experts and conservation breeders<br />

Dr. Paul V. Loiselle and Jay Hemdal credit a single Swedish<br />

aquarist, Bo Selbrink, with allowing the extinct-inthe-wild<br />

Prognathochromis perrieri to persist in captivity.<br />

That’s right: it only took a single private aquarist to save<br />

a species from extinction.<br />

The Butterfly Goodeid, Ameca splendens: extinct in the wild?<br />

best: “This small Mexican pupfish was only just recently<br />

described in 1993. By 1998, it was extinct from its home<br />

in Nuevo Leon. This fish originally inhabited a small<br />

pool of water that was spring-fed. Due to groundwater<br />

use and over-exploitation, the pond dried up and all<br />

fish were exterminated. Luckily someone had the foresight<br />

to take a few of these fish for study, and in doing<br />

so saved the species from total extinction.” Today, this<br />

pupfish species persists in the collections of a few public<br />

aquariums, such as the Steinhart at the California Academy<br />

of Sciences, and it owes its survival to a handful of<br />

aquarists.<br />

THE C.A.R.E.S. PRESERVATION PROGRAM<br />

To that end, C.A.R.E.S. seeks to address the need for<br />

captive preservation of fishes in the tanks of hobbyist<br />

aquarists, which would provide far more capacity than<br />

anything institutions can provide. To date, C.A.R.E.S.<br />

mainly covers freshwater species (the only marine species<br />

evaluated and listed are the seahorses, Hippocampus<br />

spp.). The priority list maintained by C.A.R.E.S. provides<br />

an at-a-glance assessment of troubled fish species<br />

within various interest groups. Leaders in the freshwater<br />

aquarium hobby have embraced C.A.R.E.S. to the extent<br />

of encouraging every hobbyist breeder to maintain<br />

at least one tank in his or her fish room dedicated to<br />

propagating a C.A.R.E.S. priority listed species.<br />

Should C.A.R.E.S. cross the halocline and examine<br />

more marine fish? I believe they should, and I think we<br />

should be ready to support and embrace the effort. As<br />

the marine breeding subculture grows and the pressures<br />

facing our coral reefs continue to pile up, there is a definite<br />

need for thoughtful leadership and responsibility<br />

among marine aquarists. We should learn from and follow<br />

the example of our freshwater counterparts. If we<br />

choose to be proactive and conservation-minded, I am<br />

confident that we can make sure that the biodiversity we<br />

treasure (including the species we find less than attractive)<br />

is around for our children to admire in the future.<br />

MARINE FISH OF CONCERN<br />

It’s my opinion and understanding that<br />

freshwater fish are inherently more at<br />

risk of extinction than marine fish for<br />

a simple reason: they are often far more<br />

geographically restricted. If a species is<br />

found only in one 40-acre body of water,<br />

we only need to over-collect that species<br />

or poison, drain, or dry up its habitat to<br />

wipe it out.<br />

For most of our coral reef species,<br />

it’s not necessarily so easy. Long pelagic<br />

larval phases allow species to drift,<br />

like seeds in the wind, from reef to reef<br />

across vast expanses of ocean. Many<br />

species have wide or even circumtropical<br />

distributions, which means that the<br />

loss of a particular reef may not extirpate<br />

the species from the planet. In fact,<br />

I have tried but failed to find a specific<br />

MARIE FRANCE JANELLE/CREATIVE COMMONS<br />

TK<br />

40 CORAL


ecord of a single ornamental marine fish extinction.<br />

Of course, the larger looming concern is the<br />

global threats to coral reef habitats that know no<br />

specific geographic boundary. All it takes in our<br />

game of oceanic roulette is for the wrong reef to<br />

suffer a catastrophic event, and we could lose something<br />

quite irreplaceable.<br />

TOP: PAUL V. LOISELLE; BELOW: DRAY VAN BEECK/SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

A CONTROVERSIAL EXAMPLE:<br />

THE BANGGAI CARDINALFISH<br />

The Banggai Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni) is a<br />

perfect example of this. The most recent collection<br />

data suggests that we harvest as much as 50 percent of<br />

the population of this species every year for the marine<br />

aquarium trade, yet it is one of the most geographically<br />

restricted species we keep in our aquariums. The total<br />

available habitat within its natural range is cited as 34<br />

square kilometers, or roughly 13 square miles. To put<br />

this in planetary perspective, my boyhood hometown of<br />

Riverwoods, Illinois, covers about 4 square miles, and<br />

my current city of residence, Duluth, Minnesota, covers<br />

approximately 87 square miles. So the entire population<br />

of Banggai Cardinalfish may well reside in a space about<br />

the same size as the city you live in.<br />

While we can say with some certainty that the Banggai<br />

Cardinalfish will likely persist in captivity with captive<br />

breeding, its status in the wild is a hot topic of debate.<br />

Marine species with restricted geographic ranges<br />

(and likely smaller population sizes) are the most susceptible<br />

to catastrophic population crashes from any<br />

cause. The Banggai Cardinalfish is not alone in this regard;<br />

it is simply the most publicized species due to the<br />

IUCN’s listing of it as an endangered species in 2007.<br />

AT-RISK ANGELFISH<br />

The extremely rare-in-the trade Resplendent Angelfish<br />

(Centropyge resplendens) is found only at the Ascension<br />

Banggai Cardinalfish, Pterapogon kauderni: listed as endangered in<br />

its native waters but entrenched in the aquarium world.<br />

Prognathochromis perrieri: one of many Lake Victoria cichlid species<br />

extinct in the wild but kept alive by conservation breeders.<br />

Islands in the mid-Atlantic. It used to be commonly<br />

available, but governmental restrictions on wild collection<br />

have made it extremely expensive and only available<br />

as a captive-bred fish in recent years. Meanwhile,<br />

another rare-in-the-trade angelfish, the Joculator Angel<br />

(C. joculator) from the Cocos-Keeling Islands, is slightly<br />

more obtainable, but because only one individual has<br />

permits and export capability, all the specimens you’ll<br />

see come from that one source (John Coppolino, pers<br />

comm). Both C. resplendens and C. joculator have been<br />

successfully bred in captivity by Frank Baensch, but<br />

commercial production is not happening. It’s still conceivable<br />

that C. joculator could once again be produced<br />

through captive breeding if fresh broodstock were obtained,<br />

but whether we should expect to see any more C.<br />

resplendens in the future remains to be seen.<br />

While the IUCN lists Centropyge resplendens and C.<br />

joculator as species of least concern at this time, the<br />

same cannot be said for the related Nahakyi’s Pygmy<br />

Angelfish (C. nahakyi), found only at Johnston Atoll, a<br />

starkly restricted geographic range. IUCN currently considers<br />

C. nahakyi to be “near threatened,” citing the limited<br />

range combined with the threat of El Niño weather<br />

events, which cause localized environmental problems.<br />

If C. nahakyi could be introduced to the marine aquarium<br />

trade and maintained by breeding, it would provide<br />

a valuable backup population, should<br />

something happen to the wild population<br />

at Johnston Atoll.<br />

The Clipperton Angelfish (Holacanthus<br />

limbaughii), known only from Clipperton<br />

Island, is thought to have a total range of<br />

less than 4 square miles (10 sq km). This is<br />

less than one-third of the habitat available<br />

to the aforementioned Banggai Cardinalfish.<br />

Once again, IUCN lists this species as<br />

“near threatened” for the same reasons as<br />

Centropyge nahakyi.<br />

TK<br />

PROTECTED SEAHORSES<br />

All species of seahorses are considered endangered<br />

and regulated by CITES (Convention<br />

on International Trade in Endangered<br />

Species). Still, thanks to captive breeding,<br />

many of us are able to keep these animals<br />

CORAL<br />

41


Nahakyi’s Pygmy Angelfish, Centropyge nahakyi<br />

in our homes. Regardless of the natural future for seahorses,<br />

a handful of popular aquarium species should<br />

persist well into the future as long as we keep buying<br />

them from breeders.<br />

On the IUCN Red List, most Hippocampus are listed<br />

as either “data deficient” or “vulnerable” in status,<br />

with one notable exception. The Knynsa or Cape Seahorse,<br />

H. capensis, is listed as an endangered species due<br />

to fragmented populations and habitat loss as a result<br />

of development. Ironically, this species was being bred<br />

and sold in the aquarium trade for a number of years<br />

by Ocean Rider in Hawaii. According to posts on<br />

the popular Seahorse.org discussion forums, it<br />

appears that this species may be lost to the hobby<br />

and now couldn’t be legally reintroduced because<br />

CITES regulations and South African law prevent<br />

collection. The only way hobbyists might acquire<br />

them is to obtain excess captive-bred individuals<br />

released from a public aquarium that still has<br />

them, but this is generally a rare occurrence.<br />

Ironically, with Ocean Rider producing Hippocampus<br />

capensis commercially, the handful of<br />

hobbyist seahorse breeders apparently didn’t see it<br />

as a species in need of immediate and deliberate<br />

private propagation efforts. Ocean Rider tells us<br />

they still produce and maintain H. capensis, but<br />

are eager to diversify their broodstock population.<br />

It’s disappointing to consider that if the Cape Seahorse is<br />

lost in the wild, it may have missed its chance to persist<br />

in captivity because hobbyists didn’t have the foresight to<br />

help “ark” it when we had the chance.<br />

CLOWNFISHES:<br />

“CLASSICS” OF THE MARINE WORLD<br />

I have been known to rant about clownfishes, because<br />

they are the most popular group I’ll mention, and yet<br />

they include some of the most at-risk species. Case in<br />

point: the Mccullochi Clownfish (Amphiprion mccullochi),<br />

which is only known from Lord Howe Island and<br />

possibly Norfolk Island. With just one or two small,<br />

localized weather catastrophes, this species could quite<br />

easily become extinct in the wild. Thankfully, we do<br />

have a small captive population going, but in order for<br />

the Mccullochi to be preserved in captivity, we need<br />

more people maintaining breeding pairs and watching<br />

their lineages closely.<br />

Of course, the Mcc isn’t the only clownfish in a precarious<br />

position. The Chagos Anemonefish (Amphiprion<br />

chagosensis), unknown to the trade, shares a similarly<br />

restricted geographic distribution. Since the Chagos<br />

Clownfish isn’t collected and isn’t being bred, a captiveark<br />

failsafe doesn’t exist for this species. Chagos lost 90<br />

percent of its reefs during a bleaching event in 1997–<br />

1998. Luckily, it has recovered to about 50 percent coral<br />

cover, according to the Zoological Society of London,<br />

but I have to wonder: What if that bleaching event had<br />

been 100 percent? Would I now be writing about the<br />

first documented extinction of a clownfish species?<br />

Of growing concern is the fact that we have only<br />

recently become more aware of the many geographical<br />

variants that exist among clownfish. Certain commercial<br />

breeders (most recently Sustainable Aquatics) are<br />

taking steps to obtain and breed these unique varieties,<br />

including the many forms of the Cinnamon Clownfish<br />

(Amphiprion melanopus). In March/April of 2012, Sustainable<br />

Aquatics made available both the polymorphic<br />

stripeless Coral Sea variant and a beautiful Blue Stripe<br />

SCOTT W. MICHAEL<br />

42 CORAL


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variation from New Caledonia.<br />

These geographical variants are<br />

important because we don’t always<br />

have a firm understanding<br />

of what a species is. A classic<br />

example is Amphiprion barberi<br />

from Fiji, which was considered<br />

first a wayward population of<br />

the western Australian A. rubrocinctus,<br />

and then an unusual<br />

form of A. melanopus, before<br />

finally being recognized as the<br />

distinct species it is. Keeping<br />

clean geographic breeding lines<br />

ensures that we preserve biodiversity<br />

that we may not fully<br />

understand. However, the most<br />

critical issue is again one of limited<br />

geographic range—while<br />

we may not ever lose the Cinnamon<br />

Clownfish as a species,<br />

we could easily lose the whitetailed<br />

variation from the Solomon<br />

Islands.<br />

But perhaps the most interesting<br />

dilemma in the saltwater<br />

breeding today is the ongoing<br />

struggle between “designer”<br />

clownfish varieties and their<br />

wild ancestors. I alluded to this<br />

earlier when discussing the<br />

classic fishes of the freshwater<br />

hobby. If the general hobbyist’s<br />

preference for “Picasso” Percs<br />

and “Black Photon” hybrids<br />

continues, will we even be able<br />

to get the wild forms of clownfish<br />

as captive-breds? It’s important<br />

to realize that you can’t often<br />

“go back” to the wild forms<br />

FRANK BAENSCH/ WWW.BLUEREEFPHOTO.ORG<br />

44 CORAL


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from domesticated varieties, and even more important,<br />

you can never “undo” hybridization. Faced with a never-ending<br />

onslaught of brand new cultivated varieties<br />

commanding top dollar (the latest is a new Picasso-type<br />

form of Amphiprion sebae shown off by Bali Aquarich), is<br />

it going to fall to the basement hobbyist to keep propagating<br />

the original wild forms of our clownfish species?<br />

Or will my now hypothetical grandchild only know that<br />

clownfish had three stripes because he watched a 4-D<br />

holographic version of the movie Finding Nemo?<br />

OUR CHILDREN’S FISHES<br />

Author’s son Ethan, enthralled by Rock Beauties and<br />

Florida gorgonians in one of the family’s display aquariums.<br />

So what aquarium fishes will be here when our children<br />

or grandchildren come of age and have their first aquariums?<br />

I believe that the concept of “arking” fishes, not<br />

to mention corals, is really about the entire next generation.<br />

So long as we are still able to keep aquariums,<br />

aquarists around the world will continue to propagate<br />

fishes, plants, corals, and other livestock. As long as our<br />

children appreciate and admire the natural world, as<br />

long as we make it a point to instill that appreciation in<br />

them, we will preserve at least part of our natural heritage<br />

for future generations. Perhaps they will judge us<br />

less harshly if we have tried to save as much as we could.<br />

At latest count we’re hovering around 200 species<br />

of ornamental marine fish that have been bred at least<br />

once, out of 1,500 to 2,000 marine species we currently<br />

keep (not including the additional number of<br />

geographical and manmade variants).<br />

Being bred once is not a golden ticket to<br />

salvation for a marine fish species. An<br />

informal survey of commercial producers<br />

suggests that approximately 60 species<br />

are being produced routinely and<br />

benefit from a precarious status in our<br />

marine aquarium world: if we continue<br />

to purchase them as captive-bred fish, if<br />

commercial breeders keep working with<br />

them, they will have the luxury of being<br />

already “arked” by our hobby and by our<br />

industry. They could be eliminated from<br />

the world’s oceans (or banned from wild<br />

harvest) and still exist in captivity.<br />

Where we go next is yet another great<br />

debate, but one thing is clear to me. If<br />

we can breed it, we should, so we’re not<br />

caught off-guard by changing climate or<br />

legal barriers to wild harvest. If we can’t<br />

yet breed it, we should be given the opportunity<br />

to try, so the species has a chance<br />

to get into the safety net. This isn’t to<br />

say that captive-bred fish are the only<br />

answer, but rather that captive breeding<br />

provides a backup in case our other options<br />

evaporate. Captive breeding is the<br />

aquarist’s gift back to the world. Our<br />

freshwater counterparts have more than<br />

demonstrated that while commercial<br />

demand will secure many species, dedicated<br />

hobbyists must accept the responsibility<br />

of preserving and advocating for<br />

the rare, unusual, or less colorful species<br />

that commercial breeders ignore.<br />

The marine aquarium hobby and<br />

industry may be vilified by some, but<br />

let’s keep our eyes on the prize—ensuring<br />

that as many species as possible will<br />

persist with our stewardship—regardless<br />

of what’s happening in the larger world,<br />

outside our sphere of influence.<br />

RENEE PEDERSEN<br />

46 CORAL


CORAL<br />

47


TK<br />

Pygmy<br />

<strong>Gobies</strong><br />

by Daniel Knop<br />

D. KNOP


Size impresses humans. We marvel at skyscrapers,<br />

jumbo jets, and mammoth suspension bridges. Anything<br />

extraordinarily large automatically attracts our attention and earns<br />

our respect. The same applies when it comes to the animal kingdom:<br />

be it a tiny earthworm or giant snake, a wee mouse or hulking<br />

elephant, pygmy blenny or monstrous whale shark, we don’t give a<br />

second thought as to which of these animals is more impressive. The<br />

giants win hands-down over the dwarfs.<br />

Yasha Whiteray Shrimp Goby, Stonogobiops yasha<br />

CORAL<br />

49


But we shouldn’t underestimate the elves. Mythology attributes<br />

superhuman strength to them. They are crafty, sly, and versed in<br />

magic, and that commands respect. Whether or not this applies to<br />

pygmy gobies is a matter of opinion, but it is obvious at first glance<br />

that they are fascinating fishes despite their small size. And being<br />

small can have its advantages. The smaller the fish, the more easily it<br />

can hide from predators. To the diver or snorkeler on the coral reef,<br />

it sometimes looks as if there are no fishes there at all. Only a careful<br />

look at the rocks coated in calcareous algae or the massive stony<br />

Bluestriped Dwarf Goby, Trimma tevegae<br />

D. KNOP, AQUARIUM OF J. LOHNER<br />

50 CORAL


CORAL<br />

51


corals will reveal that you are surrounded by hundreds of pairs of tiny<br />

eyes—eyes that belong to little Eviota or Trimma gobies, among others.<br />

Their bodies are only a few centimeters long. We can easily miss seeing<br />

them, but they are watching us very closely. If we come too close<br />

they disappear like lightning.<br />

Not only do gobies seek out surroundings, such as pink-red calcareous<br />

algae, that match their coloration in order to camouflage themselves,<br />

but they also utilize the strategy of lying still on the reef, a coral,<br />

or a sponge. Any fish that remains completely motionless and blends<br />

Orangesided Goby,<br />

Elacatinus dilepis<br />

52 CORAL


TK I. KRAUSE<br />

CORAL<br />

53


into its surroundings has the best chance of staying undiscovered.<br />

Being small, gobies can also disappear from the scene rapidly, as<br />

they will fit into any hole or crevice—or even the outlet of a sponge,<br />

the inlet of a giant clam, or the digestive cavity of a sea cucumber.<br />

Moreover, the reaction times of smaller fishes can be astonishing, as<br />

they must be constantly vigilant to escape being picked off by trolling<br />

predators.<br />

But being small also has its drawbacks, as the pygmy gobies clearly<br />

show: their life span is sometimes very short. Surgeonfishes live on<br />

average for 20 years, but many pygmy gobies live for only three to five.<br />

Some of the tiniest gobies have been found to live, reproduce, and die<br />

within 60 days. And that makes every day of their lives particularly<br />

valuable—all the more reason for us to keep them carefully and lovingly<br />

in the aquarium.<br />

Tiger Goby, Elacatinus macrodon<br />

54 CORAL


Redhead Goby,<br />

Elacatinus puncticulatus<br />

LEFT AND TOP: I. KRAUSE; MIDDLE: D. KNOP, AQUARIUM OF J. LOHNER<br />

Masked Goby,<br />

Coryphopterus personatus<br />

CORAL<br />

55


TK<br />

NANO<br />

<strong>Gobies</strong><br />

diversity and aquarium husbandry<br />

by Inken Krause<br />

56 CORAL


TK<br />

Like mythical dwarfs, elves, and fairies, pygmy gobies lurk<br />

among the coral forests of tropical reefs. Some of these little creatures are<br />

so tiny, and often timid as well, that you have to look very closely in order<br />

to fully appreciate their enchanting beauty.<br />

The goby family (Gobiidae) contains more than 2,000 species in around<br />

210 genera, and includes fishes with a level of variety in anatomy, habitat,<br />

and behavior rarely seen in other families. Traditionally, systematics employs<br />

six subfamilies (for example, the true gobies, subfamily Gobiinae) and<br />

Blackray Shrimp Goby, Stonogobiops nematodes<br />

I. KRAUSE<br />

CORAL<br />

57


Trimma cana, the Candystripe<br />

Goby, is eminently suitable for<br />

keeping in pairs.<br />

numerous genera (for example, the coral gobies, genus<br />

Gobiodon) to group together those species that are more<br />

or less similar. But the family Gobiidae is a taxonomic<br />

catch-all for the largest family of fishes, born of the necessity<br />

to create some sort of unified designation for a<br />

group of fishes that have about as much in common as<br />

cats and dogs.<br />

That comparison is in no way inappropriate: the<br />

family Gobiidae is—in contravention of the taxonomic<br />

ideal—not monophyletic. In other words, the genera do<br />

not all trace their ancestry back to a single original form.<br />

The family can be compared to a tree with several trunks,<br />

or even to a number of trees that have separate roots.<br />

Most gobies live in marine environments, but there are<br />

also brackish water and freshwater species—and some<br />

that migrate between fresh and salt water.<br />

And there is more: some of the species we term “pygmy<br />

gobies,” for example those of the genus Tryssogobius,<br />

actually belong not to the family of the “true” gobies<br />

(Gobiidae), but to the dartfish family (Ptereleotridae).<br />

It’s no wonder, then, that the systematics of the gobies is<br />

a subject of continuing zoological debate.<br />

However, necessity is often the mother of invention,<br />

and thus it has proved expedient in aquarium circles to<br />

consider size alone as a differentiating character rather<br />

than obvious systematically relevant factors (body form,<br />

fin rays, etc.) and genuine phylogenetic relationships.<br />

Because there are numerous goby species that are notable<br />

for their particularly small size, the term “pygmy<br />

gobies” seems very appropriate. But what size does a goby<br />

have to be to count as one of these dwarfs?<br />

WHICH GOBIES ARE NANO SIZE?<br />

There is no generally accepted definition of the term<br />

pygmy goby, so the CORAL editorial team has decided<br />

to set the upper size limit at 2 inches (5 cm) SL. One<br />

advantage of this arbitrary division is that it means we<br />

are talking about gobies with very similar requirements<br />

for aquarium husbandry. Coincidentally, the majority of<br />

the marine members of the family Gobiidae that measure<br />

less than 2 inches (5 cm) in body size are strongly<br />

bound to the reef and sedentary in their habits, primarily<br />

feeding on plankton and substrate-spawning in their reproduction.<br />

On this basis, these externally variable fishes<br />

can be grouped together. Note, however, that the species<br />

discussed here have very little in common with the freshwater<br />

“pygmy gobies” of the subfamily Gobionellinae.<br />

Another rather arbitrary limitation: in selecting the<br />

pygmy gobies to be discussed in this article, we have<br />

concentrated on those species that are both suitable for<br />

maintenance in the nano reef aquarium and also imported<br />

for the aquarium hobby, albeit sometimes rarely.<br />

ANATOMY<br />

Naturally, it is impossible to generalize regarding the<br />

anatomy of such a heterogenous group, but there are<br />

D. KNOP<br />

58 CORAL


nonetheless a number of typical characters that are<br />

found in the majority of species. First, many gobies lack<br />

a swim bladder, an organ that would be redundant in<br />

species that are strongly substrate-oriented, but not surprisingly<br />

we do find swim bladders in a number of pygmy<br />

gobies that are active swimmers. Another typical feature<br />

of all tiny gobies are the small, rounded fins that serve<br />

more for navigation than for vigorous propulsion, as<br />

well as the possession of ventral fins fused to form a sort<br />

of sucker-foot (in Stonogobiops, Gobiodon, for example)<br />

that is useful for support on the substrate.<br />

Depending on their way of life, the majority of<br />

pygmy gobies have eyes sited more or less on top of the<br />

head, assisting these substrate-dwellers to better spot<br />

any attacker approaching from above. The body form<br />

is variable depending on the requirement for swimming<br />

ability, and ranges from elliptical and high-backed<br />

(Gobiodon) to a perfect torpedo shape (Tryssogobius).<br />

The round mouth in pygmy gobies is optimized for the<br />

capture of zooplankton; its size varies from tiny (Aioliops)<br />

to surprisingly large (Stonogopiops), depending on<br />

the preferred plankton type.<br />

HABITAT<br />

Pygmy gobies are found everywhere on and around the<br />

coral reef. Bryaninops, Eviota, Gobiodon, Trimma, and<br />

others live on and among cnidarians—gorgonians, stony<br />

corals, soft corals, and anemones. Stonogobiops species<br />

and the White Cap Goby, Lotilia graciliosa, are found<br />

mainly on sandy bottoms. Elacatinus pygmy gobies are<br />

found both on various host animals (from sponges to<br />

sea urchins) and on exposed parts of the reef structure,<br />

where they maintain cleaning stations.<br />

Given the sheer number of ecological niches<br />

occupied by pygmy gobies, the range of water<br />

depths they have colonized likewise<br />

comes as no surprise: they are found<br />

from very shallow water (Eviota)<br />

down to fairly considerable depths<br />

(260 feet/80 m, Tryssogobius colini).<br />

Most pygmy gobies are pair-forming<br />

substrate-spawners that attach<br />

their eggs to a surface such<br />

as reef rock and guard them until<br />

they hatch. Without exception,<br />

the eggs of all species hatch after<br />

a few days into helpless larvae<br />

that drift away in the current as<br />

plankton and grow on without<br />

any further parental care. The majority<br />

are eaten or fall victim to the<br />

elements before they achieve metamorphosis<br />

into the adult fish.<br />

One interesting aspect of the reproduction<br />

of pygmy gobies is sex change. In particular,<br />

protogynous sex change (from female to male, for example<br />

in the Masked Goby, Coryphopterus personatus)<br />

has been well documented scientifically. But it is possible<br />

that there are also pygmy gobies that can change<br />

sex either protandrously (from male to female) or even<br />

in both directions, as suggested by research on Paragobiodon<br />

species.<br />

Various Elacatinus species, as well as Coryphopterus<br />

personatus, have already been bred and reared in the<br />

aquarium. While the former are now being reared commercially<br />

for the aquarium trade and some species (Elacatinus<br />

multifasciatus, E. oceanops, E. puncticulatus) are<br />

regularly available as captive-bred stock, the breeding of<br />

all other species is still in its infancy. A pioneer in goby<br />

breeding, Oceans, Reefs & Aquariums in Fort Pierce,<br />

Florida, currently has six species of Elacatinus in commercial<br />

production.<br />

GENUS AIOLIOPS<br />

Of the four species of the genus Aioliops, the most interesting<br />

to aquarists is the Dwarf Dartfish, A. megastigma,<br />

which is the only species that is imported as an<br />

aquarium fish, albeit rarely. Measuring only about 0.75<br />

inch (2 cm), this very slender goby truly deserves the<br />

name of pygmy goby, but differs radically from most<br />

other members of the group in terms of its ecology. Spe-<br />

Gobiodon albofasciatus,<br />

the Whitelined Coral Goby.<br />

D. KNOP<br />

REPRODUCTION<br />

CORAL<br />

59


Mini Dart Goby, Aioliops megastigma<br />

cifically, these fishes don’t spend their lives resting on<br />

the substrate, but swim in the open water above and at<br />

some distance from large stony corals, into which they<br />

flee when danger is imminent. They feed on the finest<br />

of pelagic zooplankton and are so efficient at obtaining<br />

their food that they can be difficult to keep in the<br />

aquarium—because its constant movement expends so<br />

much energy, such a tiny goby must eat continuously in<br />

order to avoid starvation. The requisite heavy feeding can<br />

cause problems in the limited volume of water in a nano<br />

reef aquarium.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 4 gallons (15 L) and up.<br />

Food: Very fine frozen food and plankton (for example<br />

lobster eggs, tiger copepods, CYCLOP-EEZE).<br />

Degree of difficulty: High.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Should be kept in small groups;<br />

feed small portions as often as possible, at least three<br />

times daily.<br />

GENUS BRYANINOPS<br />

Without exception, the 10 species of the genus Bryaninops<br />

are true dwarfs measuring 0.5–1.5 inches (1.5–4<br />

cm), and their ecology is typical of all coral gobies. In<br />

hardly any other genus is the commensal relationship<br />

with cnidarians as hosts so close. These tiny gobies either<br />

inhabit gorgonians (in the case of Bryaninops amplus or<br />

B. yongei, for example), or (for example, Bryaninops natans)<br />

live in association with large specimens of smallpolyp<br />

stony corals, usually those of the genus Acropora,<br />

above which they hover to capture plankton. When danger<br />

threatens they disappear lightning-fast among the<br />

coral branches.<br />

While the members of the genus associated<br />

with stony corals are active swimmers,<br />

those that inhabit gorgonians are very passive<br />

and simply sit quietly on a branch, employing<br />

a finely honed camouflage strategy:<br />

all Bryaninops are more or less transparent,<br />

and an elongate goby of this type, nestling<br />

tightly against the branch of a sea whip,<br />

merges almost completely with the substrate<br />

to become invisible. The free-swimming species<br />

are also well camouflaged by virtue of<br />

their translucent, often very light-colored<br />

bodies: these tiny little streaks, swimming in<br />

large groups above the corals and dancing in<br />

the sunlight of the shallows, are probably not<br />

recognized as worthy prey by many predators<br />

but rather as something totally different—<br />

Whip Coral Goby, Bryaninops yongei, true<br />

to its name, is usually found on gorgonians.<br />

This specimen on a Junceella sp. is exhibiting<br />

normal coloration in the first photo (top). In<br />

the second (bottom), it is camouflaged using<br />

mimetic adaptation to the host coral; polyp-like<br />

structures resembling the contours of the coral<br />

have been created inside the body using color<br />

pigments. This change took place in the space of<br />

a few seconds and could be reproduced.<br />

TOP: P. SCHMEIDEL; BOTTOM: D. KNOP<br />

60 CORAL


The aquarium for pygmy gobies<br />

The perfect home for pygmy<br />

gobies: a nano reef aquarium<br />

with a volume of around 8<br />

gallons (30 L).<br />

TOP: I, KRAUSE; BOTTOM LEFT: E. THALER; RIGHT: D. KNOP<br />

There is, of course, no fish that<br />

cannot be housed in a large<br />

aquarium—after all, there are no<br />

restricting sheets of glass in the<br />

natural habitat. If a large reef aquarium<br />

can be so designed that tiny<br />

pygmy gobies are neither eaten by<br />

larger tankmates nor “swallowed”<br />

by equipment (overflows, siphons,<br />

pumps), then they can do very<br />

well in an artificial biotope of<br />

this kind.<br />

The fact is, however, that the<br />

proud owner will be able to see<br />

his rather timid charges regularly<br />

and study their behavior only<br />

if they are kept in a fairly small<br />

aquarium. There are also practical<br />

reasons for accommodating these<br />

fishes in small tanks: feeding, in<br />

It is important to feed several times<br />

per day: two Stonogobiops yasha, one<br />

well nourished, left, and the other<br />

half-starved, right.<br />

particular the feeding of demanding<br />

species, can be performed in a more<br />

targeted manner, with less effort<br />

and hence more efficiently.<br />

There is also a lot to be said for<br />

keeping pygmy gobies primarily in<br />

a nano reef aquarium. A “classic”<br />

nano reef aquarium of around 4–8<br />

gallons (15–30 L) can accommodate<br />

one pair of a single suitable species.<br />

Anyone who would like to try keeping<br />

groups, which can be very interesting<br />

with Eviota or Coryphopterus,<br />

for example, would be well advised<br />

to use an “XXL nano” of around 15<br />

to 30 gallons (57 to 114 L). Several<br />

pairs of different species can be<br />

housed in an aquarium of this size.<br />

CORAL<br />

61


Redeye Goby,<br />

Bryaninops natans<br />

large particles of “marine snow” brought in by the current,<br />

or just too small to bother with.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 5.25 gallons (20 L) and up.<br />

Food: Very fine frozen food and plankton (for example<br />

lobster eggs, tiger copepods, CYCLOP-EEZE).<br />

Degree of difficulty: High.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Must always be kept together<br />

with corals (appropriate to the species); feed small portions<br />

as often as possible, at least three times daily.<br />

GENUS CORYPHOPTERUS<br />

All of the 15 species of the genus Coryphopterus currently<br />

known originate from the Atlantic. These fishes measure<br />

up to 1.5 inches (4 cm) in length and are neither as<br />

active as the “real” swimming gobies (for example, Aioliops<br />

or Tryssogobius) nor as strongly substrate-oriented<br />

as Trimma species, for example; instead they alternate<br />

between swimming close to the reef to capture plankton<br />

and settling on corals to rest. It is primarily the two<br />

Caribbean species—the Peppermint Goby, C. lipernes,<br />

and the Masked Goby, C. personatus—that are important<br />

for the aquarium hobby. They are very uncomplicated<br />

in their maintenance, but surprisingly are imported extremely<br />

rarely.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 5.25 gallons (20 L) and up.<br />

Food: Fine frozen food; adults will also eat<br />

larger morsels.<br />

Degree of difficulty: Low.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Keep in pairs or<br />

small groups in tanks of 16 gallons (60 L)<br />

or more.<br />

GENUS DISCORDIPINNA<br />

Although the genus Discordipinna has<br />

achieved an almost glamorous prominence in the hobby,<br />

systematically it has little to offer, as it contains only a<br />

single species, D. griessingeri. This is well known as one<br />

of the most sought-after aquarium fishes in the era of<br />

the nano reef aquarium, although it is also one of the<br />

shyest. Hence it is no wonder that few divers are familiar<br />

with the Spikefin Goby in its natural habitat, although<br />

its distribution encompasses the entire Indo-Pacific and<br />

it can be assumed that this tiny, extremely slender goby,<br />

which measures only around 1.25 inches (3 cm) in<br />

length, is by no means rare.<br />

There have recently been rumors (which remain to<br />

be substantiated) of a mysterious second species of this<br />

genus. The reason for such speculation is a now-famous<br />

photo that clearly shows a Discordipinna goby whose coloration<br />

clearly deviates from that typical for D. griessingeri.<br />

This creamy-white, caramel, and vanilla-colored<br />

fish looks just as fabulously beautiful as the scarlet red<br />

“standard form,” but all the photos currently on the Internet<br />

apparently show the same specimen, so it may be<br />

a color morph rather than a new species.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 4 gallons (15 L) and up.<br />

Food: Very fine, if possible live food (for example tiger copepods,<br />

Moina salina, Artemia nauplii, CYCLOP-EEZE);<br />

Peppermint Goby,<br />

Coryphopterus lipernes<br />

Spikefin Goby,<br />

Discordipinna<br />

griessingeri<br />

62 CORAL


Greenbanded Goby,<br />

Elacatinus multifasciatus<br />

Broadstripe Goby,<br />

Elacatinus prochilos<br />

some adults will eat somewhat larger frozen foods.<br />

Degree of difficulty: Medium.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Very timid fishes that rarely show<br />

themselves; keep in pairs or in small groups in tanks of<br />

6.5 gallons (25 L) or more.<br />

OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP AND RIGHT: I. KRAUSE; LEFT: D. KNOP. THIS PAGE, TOP RIGHT: D. KNOP; OTHERS: I. KRAUSE<br />

GENUS ELACATINUS<br />

Above: Tiger Goby, Elacatinus macrodon<br />

Below: Neon Goby, Elacatinus oceanops<br />

The neon gobies of the genus Elacatinus are among the<br />

most interesting of the pygmy gobies. The 35 species currently<br />

described include both cleaner gobies (for example,<br />

the Sharknose Goby, Elacatinus evelynae, and Neon<br />

Goby, E. oceanops) and species that enjoy commensal relationships<br />

with other reef-dwellers, for example sea urchins<br />

(Greenbanded Goby, E. multifasciatus) or sponges<br />

(Linesnout Goby, E. lori). Other species (such as the<br />

Redheaded Neon Goby, E. puncticulatus) live in loose association<br />

with corals.<br />

In the past the majority of Elacatinus species were assigned<br />

to the genus Gobiosoma, from which they were<br />

gradually removed. But it is incorrect to regard Gobiosoma<br />

as simply an obsolete name or a synonym for the entire<br />

genus Elacatinus, although this error is widespread.<br />

Gobiosoma continues to exist as a distinct genus containing<br />

a few species, though they are not particularly relevant<br />

for the aquarium hobby.<br />

Anatomically speaking, Elacatinus gobies are characterized<br />

by a very streamlined body form with small fins<br />

carried tight to the body. The cleaner gobies of the genus,<br />

at least, are generally good swimmers, an ability that is<br />

less marked in the more substrate-oriented species.<br />

Two basic types of coloration can be distinguished: the<br />

cleaner gobies all exhibit an almost uniform longitudinal<br />

stripe pattern extending the length of the body and always<br />

consisting of either blue, yellow, or white bands on<br />

a dark background—the typical garb of a cleaner, in other<br />

words, similar to that seen in wrasses and shrimps. The<br />

non-cleaner species exhibit a somewhat more variable,<br />

sometimes very gaudy color pattern. A striking feature of<br />

this group is a repeating pattern of crossbands. In some<br />

species, for example the Greenbanded Goby, E. multifasciatus,<br />

which sometimes lives on sea urchins, this can be<br />

interpreted as a camouflage pattern that makes the fish<br />

invisible against a background of long spines. But it also<br />

occurs in the Orangesided Goby, E. dilepis, for example,<br />

which is actually associated with corals and sponges.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 5.25 gallons (20 L) or more.<br />

Food: Various frozen and dry foods, including larger<br />

types for adults.<br />

CORAL<br />

63


Degree of difficulty: Low.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Keep as a pair if compatible specimens<br />

can be obtained; the non-cleaner species, such as<br />

E. dilepis, E. multifasciatus, and E. puncticulatus, are those<br />

best suited to maintenance in the nano aquarium.<br />

GENUS EVIOTA<br />

Orangesided Goby,<br />

Elacatinus dilepis<br />

Often mentioned in the same breath as the genus Trimma,<br />

the 64 species of the genus Eviota are precisely the<br />

type of fishes that first come to mind when the term<br />

“pygmy gobies” is used. In their natural habitat, the coral<br />

reefs of the Indo-Pacific, these little creatures live in close<br />

association with stony corals, above which they swim to<br />

capture plankton, so that if danger threatens they can<br />

retire instantly to the shelter of the branches or polyps.<br />

In fact only two of the 64 species, the Twostripe Pygmy<br />

Goby, Eviota bifasciata, and the Gold Neon Pygmy Goby,<br />

Eviota pellucida, are relevant for the aquarium hobby. The<br />

fantastic Blackbelly Goby, E. nigriventris, with its lilac<br />

and black coloration, is hardly ever imported.<br />

Because of their very small size—only around 0.75<br />

inch (2 cm)—pairs of Eviota gobies are popular as occupants<br />

for nano reef aquariums, where they do well<br />

provided they receive adequate food. It is not always easy<br />

to distinguish unknown species of this genus from the<br />

anatomically very similar Trimma gobies. One useful differentiating<br />

character, however, is the eyes, which are<br />

somewhat further apart and not as high on the head in<br />

Eviota species.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 4 gallons (15 L) and up.<br />

Food: Fine frozen and dry foods.<br />

Degree of difficulty: Medium.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Keep in pairs or groups in aquariums<br />

of 15 gallons (57 L) or more.<br />

GENERA GOBIODON AND PARAGOBIODON<br />

The 20 species of the genus Gobiodon are collectively<br />

known as coral gobies. They not only hide among the<br />

branches of corals when danger threatens, as other<br />

pygmy gobies do, but spend their entire lives on stony<br />

corals, preferably those of the genus Acropora. They are<br />

poor swimmers—they lack a swim bladder—and cannot<br />

survive without their host cnidarians, at least not in<br />

the natural habitat. Although they all have practically<br />

the same body form and are a similar size (0.75–1.5<br />

inches/2–4 cm), Gobiodon species exhibit an astonishing<br />

range of colors, from bright yellow (G. okinawae) or<br />

red (G. quinquestrigatus) to red and green (G. histrio) or<br />

pitch black (G. acicularis). These apparently striking colors<br />

are actually adaptations to the preferred host coral.<br />

It is mainly the Yellow Clown Goby, G. okinawae, and<br />

the Green or Broadband Clown Goby, G. histrio, that<br />

are imported for the aquarium hobby. The Citron Clown<br />

Gold Neon Pygmy Goby,<br />

Eviota pellucida<br />

Twostripe Pygmy Goby,<br />

Eviota bifasciata<br />

BOTTOM LEFT: D. KNOP; OTHERS: I. KRAUSE<br />

64 CORAL


Top left: Green Clown Goby, Gobiodon histrio, in a Sinularia<br />

leather coral. Bottom left: Yellow Clown Goby, Gobiodon<br />

okinawae. Above: Blackfin or Panda Coral Goby, Paragobiodon<br />

lacunicolus.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 5.25 gallons (20 L) and up.<br />

Food: Fine frozen and dry foods; adults will also take<br />

larger morsels (for example Artemia and Mysis).<br />

Degree of difficulty: Low.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Keep in pairs; suitable; host corals<br />

must be present (if necessary leather corals, for example<br />

Sinularia or Sarcophyton).<br />

TOP RIGHT: E. THALER; OTHERS: I. KRAUSE<br />

Goby, G. citrinus, seen just as frequently in the trade, is<br />

not a pygmy goby as defined earlier, as it attains a length<br />

of around 2.25–2.75 inches (6–7 cm); however, it is no<br />

different in behavior from its smaller relatives and can<br />

be kept in the same way in the aquarium.<br />

Their relatives belonging to the sister genus Paragobiodon<br />

differ from Gobiodon species in being somewhat<br />

smaller and daintier, and at first glance there are hardly<br />

any visible anatomical differences between the two genera.<br />

They are only of extremely minor significance for<br />

the aquarium hobby, although the pretty little Blackfin<br />

or Panda Coral Goby, P. lacunicolus, as well as the secretive<br />

Emerald Coral Goby, P. xanthosoma, would be very<br />

interesting to keep in a nano reef aquarium.<br />

All Gobiodon and Paragobiodon species also lay their<br />

eggs, which they guard until they hatch, among the<br />

branches of the host coral. Part of the coral skeleton is<br />

cleared of tissue for the purpose. However, coral gobies<br />

do not obligatorily feed on coral polyps as is sometimes<br />

assumed, and healthy corals will withstand the damage<br />

caused by the tiny gobies without a problem.<br />

GENUS LOTILIA<br />

The genus Lotilia is monotypic: its one species is the distinctive<br />

Whitecap Goby, Lotilia graciliosa, which is an especially<br />

spectacular fish with an attractive bi-color garb<br />

of nougat brown and ivory. It lives in symbiosis with the<br />

Redspotted Pistol Shrimp, Alpheus rubromaculatus, and<br />

in so doing behaves in a very similar fashion to the partner<br />

gobies of the genus Stonogobiops, with which it is<br />

sympatric in some parts of the Indo-Pacific.<br />

The unusual coloration of L. graciliosa is a shining<br />

example of the way that form always follows function<br />

in the wild: the dividing line between the light and dark<br />

Whitecap Goby,<br />

Lotilia graciliosa<br />

CORAL<br />

65


genus, it is mainly the Northern Convict Goby, P. boreus,<br />

followed by the Girdled Goby, P. cincta, and the White<br />

Tiger Goby, P. nocturna, that are regularly imported for<br />

the ornamental fish trade.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 5.25 gallons (20 L) upward.<br />

Food: Fine frozen food; adults will also take larger morsels,<br />

for example Artemia and Mysis.<br />

Degree of difficulty: Low.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Keep in pairs; feed frequently using<br />

small portions.<br />

Northern Convict<br />

Goby, Priolepis<br />

boreus, is a cave<br />

dweller that often<br />

poses upside down.<br />

parts of the body runs diagonally precisely above the eye<br />

of the fish. The eyes are the most vulnerable part of any<br />

animal and the primary target for predators—not least<br />

because the latter always aim to seize their prey securely<br />

by the head. But the bold contrast between light and<br />

dark immediately above the eye makes the latter practically<br />

invisible.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 8 gallons (30 L) and up.<br />

Food: Fine frozen food, perhaps even dry food;<br />

adults will also take larger morsels, for example<br />

Artemia and Mysis.<br />

Degree of difficulty: Medium.<br />

Hints for maintenance: If possible, keep in pairs<br />

and always with Alpheus rubromaculatus (if that<br />

isn’t possible, A. randalli).<br />

GENUS STONOGOBIOPS<br />

We regard Stonogobiops as the only genus from the symbiotic<br />

goby group that belongs to the pygmy gobies.<br />

Apart from their size, its seven species closely resemble<br />

their larger relatives (for example, the genera Amblygobius,<br />

Cryptocentrus) and are characterized by anatomical<br />

features such as fused ventral fins and a comparatively<br />

large mouth. An extremely long, lance-like first dorsal<br />

fin is characteristic of the Filament-finned Prawn Goby,<br />

S. nematodes, S. medon, and the Yasha Goby, S. yasha,<br />

but the Dracula Goby, S. dracula, Larson’s Shrimp Goby,<br />

S. larsonae, The Fivebanded Goby, S. pentafasciata, and<br />

the Yellownose Prawn Goby, S. xanthorhinica, have only<br />

a moderately enlarged, rounded first dorsal fin.<br />

These enchantingly beautiful gobies live in symbiotic<br />

partnership with pistol shrimps of the genus Alpheus on<br />

sandy bottoms in the vicinity of Info-Pacific reefs—a fascinating<br />

relationship that also works extremely well when<br />

they are kept together in the reef aquarium. Two species<br />

play a role in the aquarium hobby above all others: Stonogobiops<br />

nematodes and the much-coveted Yasha Goby, S.<br />

yasha, which, despite the price, is much in demand on<br />

Dracula Goby,<br />

Stonogobiops dracula<br />

BOTTOM: E. THALER; BOTTOM RIGHT: D. KNOP; OTHERS: I. KRAUSE<br />

GENUS PRIOLEPIS<br />

All the so-called convict goby species of the genus<br />

Priolepis swim upside down. These unusual<br />

little gobies from the Pacific are all cave dwellers,<br />

which normally move around belly up as an adaptation<br />

to their way of life, thereby maintaining<br />

contact with the ceiling of the cave. With their<br />

large heads and mouths to match, these little<br />

fishes, usually only around 1.25 inches (3 cm)<br />

long, can capture astonishingly large items of<br />

plankton, but their lack of a swim bladder makes<br />

them only moderately good swimmers that move<br />

adroitly only in their own special environment,<br />

that is, among rocks. Of the 34 species in this<br />

66 CORAL


Candystripe Goby,<br />

Trimma cana<br />

Redface Pygmy Goby, Trimma benjamini<br />

Redspotted Dwarf Goby,<br />

Trimma rubromaculatum<br />

TK<br />

account of its brilliant red and white coloration.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 8 gallons (30 L) and up.<br />

Food: Fine frozen food, perhaps also dry food; adults will<br />

also take larger morsels, for example Artemia and Mysis.<br />

Degree of difficulty: Medium.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Keep<br />

in pairs and together with the<br />

appropriate pistol shrimp (depending<br />

on the species, usually<br />

Alpheus randalli); feed frequently<br />

using small portions.<br />

If underfed, these gobies will<br />

become emaciated and are<br />

then very sensitive.<br />

GENUS TRIMMA<br />

Its wealth of species (69 taxa)<br />

and wide geographical distribution<br />

(the entire Indo-Pacific)<br />

make the genus Trimma<br />

probably the most important<br />

genus in the pygmy goby<br />

group, not least, of course,<br />

because a comparatively large<br />

number of species are available<br />

for maintenance in the<br />

reef aquarium and do very<br />

well there if treated correctly. These little fishes, which<br />

measure only 1.25–1.5 inches (3–4 cm) long, are very<br />

sedentary in their habits, and unlike Eviota species, for<br />

example, swim hardly at all—not even to capture plankton,<br />

preferring to remain “sitting” on a coral. This<br />

means they require very little space and are thus very<br />

popular for populating even exceptionally small nano<br />

reef aquariums.<br />

The most striking anatomical feature of the genus<br />

Trimma is the position of the eyes relatively high on the<br />

head, a characteristic of a substrate-oriented fish that<br />

has to deal mainly with attack from above. Males often<br />

exhibit a not particularly striking, but noticeable prolongation<br />

of the first dorsal-fin ray. This character can make<br />

it significantly easier to select pairs for aquarium maintenance.<br />

The best-known member of this genus is the<br />

bright red and white striped Candystripe Goby (T. cana),<br />

followed by the Firecracker Goby, T. rubromaculatum, the<br />

Greybeard Pygmy Goby, T. annosum, the Redface Dwarf<br />

Goby, T. benjamini, and the Caesiura Goby, T. caesiura.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 4 gallons (15 L) upward.<br />

Food: Fine frozen and dry food, CYCLOP-EEZE.<br />

CORAL<br />

67


Greybeard Pygmy Goby,<br />

Trimma annosum<br />

Stripehead Pygmy Goby,<br />

Trimma striata, is a typical<br />

cave dweller that often hovers<br />

belly up.<br />

Dart Goby, Tryssogobius colini. Anyone seeing these extraordinary<br />

little fishes from the Western Pacific for the<br />

first time will be left in no doubt that they are related to<br />

the fairytale elves. The gleaming silver-white body of this<br />

little dartfish is edged with delicate blue and gold and is<br />

best appreciated under bluish lighting, as in its natural<br />

habitat at depths of up to 260 feet (80 m). Here T. colini<br />

lives in small groups and swims in the open water to<br />

capture plankton, exhibiting a certain similarity to the<br />

much larger dartfishes of the genus Nemateleotris, which<br />

likewise belong to the family Ptereleotridae. Like practically<br />

all open-swimming pygmy gobies that live on the<br />

finest zooplankton (Aioliops, for example), T. colini has a<br />

very high energy requirement in relation to its body size,<br />

and this must be catered to. For this reason attempts at<br />

aquarium maintenance are not always successful.<br />

In the aquarium<br />

Aquarium size: 5.25 gallons (20 L) upward.<br />

Food: Very fine frozen food and plankton (for example<br />

lobster eggs, tiger copepods, CYCLOP-EEZE).<br />

Degree of difficulty: High.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Keep in pairs; group maintenance<br />

is possible only in large aquariums. Feed small portions<br />

as often as possible, at least three times daily.<br />

REFERENCES<br />

Degree of difficulty: Medium.<br />

Hints for maintenance: Keep in pairs or in groups in<br />

aquariums of 16 gallons (60 L) or more.<br />

GENUS TRYSSOGOBIUS<br />

With only five species this genus is very small, but in<br />

no way uninteresting, even though only a single species<br />

is of aquarium-hobby importance, namely the Blue Eye<br />

Debelius, H. and R. Kuiter. 2006. World Atlas of Marine Fishes.<br />

Kosmos, Stuttgart, Germany.<br />

Michael, S.W. 2005. A PocketExpert Guide: Reef Aquarium Fishes.<br />

Microcosm/TFH, Neptune City, New Jersey.<br />

Moyle, P. and J. Cech. 2004. Fishes. An Introduction to<br />

Ichthyology. Prentice Hall, Upper Saddle River, NJ.<br />

Nelson, J. 1994. Fishes of the World. John Wiley & Sons, New<br />

York.<br />

Storch, V. and U. Welsch. 1997. Systematische Zoologie. Fischer,<br />

Stuttgart, Germany.<br />

Blue Eye Dart Goby, Tryssogobius colini<br />

BOTTOM: P. SCHMEIDEL; OTHERS: D. KNOP<br />

68 CORAL


69<br />

CORAL<br />

69


TK<br />

You Baster !<br />

OVERVIEW:<br />

Pygmy<br />

<strong>Gobies</strong><br />

in the sea<br />

and the aquarium<br />

How can one provide an overview of a “fish<br />

family” that isn’t one at all? I will summon<br />

up the courage to try. As already mentioned<br />

in the preceding articles, the fishes termed<br />

“pygmy gobies” by aquarists aren’t actually<br />

a discrete systematic unit, but rather a random<br />

assemblage of small, attractive species,<br />

usually less than 2 inches (5 cm) long and<br />

generally suitable for aquarium maintenance.<br />

The problem is, in fact, two-fold. On the<br />

one hand there are so many small gobies<br />

measuring less than 2 inches (5 cm) that<br />

it would take many pages of CORAL to list<br />

them all. In addition, we are really looking<br />

at several fish families: some familiar species,<br />

for example the Blue Eye Dart Goby,<br />

Tryssogobius colini, have not been regarded<br />

as “real” gobies (family Gobiidae) for some<br />

years, and are now assigned to the dartfishes<br />

(Ptereleotridae), which constitute a separate<br />

family.<br />

The list that follows is simply an overview<br />

of the genera mentioned in the preceding<br />

articles, with color-coding to show their status<br />

in the aquarium hobby.<br />

—Inken Krause<br />

KEY<br />

ORANGE =<br />

regularly imported for<br />

the aquarium hobby<br />

Genus Aioliops<br />

A. megastigma<br />

plus 3 species for which<br />

no details of aquarium<br />

maintenance are available.<br />

Genus Bryaninops<br />

B. ampulus<br />

B. natans<br />

B. yongei<br />

plus 7 species for which<br />

no details of aquarium<br />

maintenance are available.<br />

Genus Coryphopterus<br />

C. lipernest<br />

C. personatus<br />

plus 13 species for which<br />

no details of aquarium<br />

maintenance are available.<br />

Genus Discordipinna<br />

D. griessingeri<br />

Genus Elacatinus<br />

E. chancei<br />

E. dilepis<br />

E. evelynae<br />

E. figaro<br />

E. genie<br />

E. horsti<br />

E. lori<br />

E. macrodon<br />

E. multifasciatus<br />

E. oceanops<br />

E. prochilos<br />

E. puncticulatus<br />

E. randalli<br />

E. xanthiprora<br />

plus 21 species for which<br />

no details of aquarium<br />

maintenance are available.<br />

Genus Eviota<br />

E. albolineata<br />

E. bifasciata<br />

E. nigriventris<br />

E. pellucida<br />

E. zebrina<br />

plus 57 species for which<br />

no details of aquarium<br />

maintenance are available.<br />

GREEN =<br />

very rarely seen in the<br />

trade<br />

70<br />

CORAL


Genus Gobiodon<br />

G. acicularis<br />

G. albofasciatus<br />

G. atrangulatus<br />

(G. citrinus)<br />

G. histrio<br />

G. oculolineatus<br />

G. okinawae<br />

G. quinquestrigatus<br />

G. reticulatus<br />

G. rivulatus<br />

G. spilophthalmus<br />

G. unicolor<br />

plus 8 species for which<br />

no details of aquarium<br />

maintenance are available.<br />

Genus Lotilia<br />

L. graciliosa<br />

Genus Paragobiodon<br />

P. echinocephalus<br />

P. lacunicolus<br />

P. modestus<br />

P. xanthosoma<br />

plus 1 species for<br />

which no<br />

details of<br />

aquarium<br />

maintenance<br />

are available.<br />

Genus Priolepis<br />

P. boreus<br />

P. cincta<br />

P. hipolti<br />

P. nocturna<br />

P. nuchifasciata<br />

plus 3 species for which<br />

no details of aquarium<br />

maintenance are available.<br />

Genus Stonogobiops<br />

S. dracula<br />

S. nematodes<br />

S. xanthorhinica<br />

S. yasha<br />

plus 3 species for which<br />

no details of aquarium<br />

maintenance are available.<br />

Genus Trimma<br />

T. anaima<br />

T. annosum<br />

T. benjamini<br />

T. caesiura<br />

T. cana<br />

T. okinawae<br />

T. rubromaculatum<br />

T. striatum<br />

T. tevegae<br />

plus 60 species for which no details<br />

of aquarium maintenance are<br />

available.<br />

Genus Tryssogobius<br />

T. colini<br />

plus 4 species for which no details<br />

of aquarium maintenance are<br />

available.<br />

You Not<br />

Baster !<br />

Julian’s Thing ® is a NEW<br />

multi-purpose device.<br />

Use it for feeding corals,<br />

for feeding anemones,<br />

for feeding zoanthids,<br />

for feeding seahorses and<br />

other timid fishes. Use it<br />

for applying solutions onto<br />

Aiptasia and manjano<br />

anemones. Use it for<br />

siphoning up detritus or<br />

for blowing jets into the<br />

substrate to clean along the<br />

windows. With replaceable<br />

tips. Length extendable to 36<br />

inches. Patent pending.<br />

Designed by Julian Sprung.<br />

Julian’s Thing is<br />

NOT for Turkeys.<br />

TK<br />

Two Little Fishies Inc.<br />

1007 Park Centre Blvd.<br />

Miami Gardens, FL 33169 USA<br />

www.twolittlefishies.com<br />

CORAL<br />

71


A CORAL BY ANY OTHER NAME…<br />

Before the question may be addressed, it is<br />

necessary to define what is meant by “coral.”<br />

While the vernacular term “coral” is not<br />

all-encompassing, it does include more than<br />

its fair share of living creatures. There are<br />

many different types of animals that can legitimately<br />

be called corals. The term “coral”<br />

is a vague common name, and a recent brief<br />

scan of some Internet reef aquarium hobby<br />

sites found that everything from A, for “algae,”<br />

to Z, for “zoanthids,” was found listed<br />

as coral. But scientifically speaking, neither<br />

the alga (in this particular case Sargassum)<br />

nor zoanthids are actually corals.<br />

Using a bit of biological categorization,<br />

a coral may be defined as either a cnidarian<br />

animal possessing an internal or external<br />

skeleton of calcium carbonate and/or<br />

protein in a massive form or in the form of<br />

crystalline structures embedded in the animal’s<br />

tissues, or as a cnidarian animal derived<br />

from an ancestor that possessed such<br />

a skeleton. The first animals to be referred<br />

to as corals were individuals of the gorgonian<br />

species, Corallium rubrum, the so-called<br />

“precious coral” from the Mediterranean<br />

Sea. Presently, at least some biologists would<br />

consider as corals all octocorals, all stony—<br />

or scleractinian—corals, all mushroom polyps,<br />

all black corals, and all hydrocorals. Zoanthids<br />

and sea anemones are not corals, as<br />

they lack several specific structures found in<br />

the stony corals.<br />

All corals are members of the Phylum<br />

Cnidaria, a distinctive animal group having<br />

a number of specific and unique characteristics.<br />

Most of these characteristics do not<br />

help to answer the question of how long a<br />

coral may live. However, there is one characteristic<br />

that is very important in this regard:<br />

Many cnidarian animals do not seem to<br />

show old age or senescence. Phrased another<br />

way, they don’t get old, whatever “getting<br />

old” means. The only cnidarian animals<br />

that appear to die of old age are jellyfishes,<br />

and we are really not sure that they die of<br />

something similar to what we call old age<br />

in other animals. It may truly be said that<br />

most cnidarian animals are potentially immortal.<br />

They can live until they die of injury,<br />

disease, predation, or some other environ-<br />

Lophelia pertusa, a deepwater scleractinian,<br />

photographed at 1,475 feet in the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

Orange Cup Coral, Balanophyllia elegans,<br />

a cool-water species found from southern<br />

California to British Columbia. Photographed at<br />

the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Previous page: Australian<br />

Institute of Marine Science researcher studying an<br />

ancient Porites lobata on the Great Barrier Reef.<br />

UPPER: TEWY/CREATIVE COMMONS. LEFT: NOAA OCEAN EXPLORER.<br />

74 CORAL


PREVIOUS SPREAD: ERIC MATSON/AUSTRALIA INSTITUTE OF MARINE SCIENCE<br />

mental factor (boredom, perhaps).<br />

So the answer to the question “How long can a coral<br />

live?” has to be determined statistically. Every moment<br />

of a coral’s life, it has a small but finite probability of<br />

being killed by something. It is a statistical truism that if<br />

enough time elapses, all events with a finite probability<br />

of occurrence will eventually occur. So, sooner or later,<br />

a coral’s time will run out. However, it will not die after<br />

a normal “life span” of years such as the human’s three<br />

score and ten. While human bodies effectively wear out,<br />

coral bodies do not.<br />

ANOTHER COMPLICATION<br />

In organisms that reproduce only by sexual reproduction,<br />

there is no difference between the age of their body and<br />

that of their genome. The genome exists only in the cells<br />

of the one unique organism created with the fusion of<br />

an egg and a sperm forming the zygote, or fertilized egg.<br />

This first moment when a sexually reproduced organism<br />

has its genome provides an unambiguous starting point<br />

for a life span. Determining such an organism’s age is an<br />

obvious process, provided it is possible to find some way<br />

to measure it.<br />

Of course, sexual reproduction isn’t the only way organisms<br />

can reproduce. Reproduction sans sex produces<br />

clones, body fragments, or spores that already have the<br />

complete genome necessary for life. While sexual reproduction<br />

always results in a unique genome for each<br />

unique offspring, asexual reproduction results in duplicate<br />

individuals, each with the “parental” genome and<br />

some part of the parental body. In these cases, while the<br />

“parental” individual may die, the genome and at least<br />

some of its body may live on, sometimes for a very great<br />

length of time.<br />

THE TIME OF THEIR LIVES<br />

Some aquarists may be familiar with the miniscule rotifers,<br />

animals having only about 1,000 cells. Many rotiferan<br />

species—such as Brachionus plicatilis, commonly<br />

used as a live food in marine aquarium systems—reproduce<br />

sexually; however, one rotiferan group, the “bdelloid<br />

rotifers,” reproduces wholly and entirely by asexual<br />

means. Lacking males or hermaphrodites, bdelloid rotifer<br />

lineages have absolutely no means of sexual reproduction.<br />

There is no evidence whatsoever that bdelloids<br />

have either genetic recombination or exchange. Each<br />

parthenogenic bdelloid female gives “virgin” birth to babies<br />

that are perfect clones of their mother. While each<br />

individual only lives a short time, often just a few days,<br />

the unique individual genetic lineages, or genomes, appear<br />

to have been distinct and unchanged for at least 40<br />

million years. Although it is enormously unlikely, it is<br />

still theoretically possible that some infinitesimal fraction<br />

of maternal material could have been passed from<br />

mother to daughter through all of that time, so that at<br />

least some of the original progenitor could be present in<br />

today’s daughter, making at least some small part of her<br />

really, really old.<br />

The winners for potential life spans from asexually<br />

reproducing organisms, though, are neither rotifers nor<br />

animals, but probably some halophilic (salt-loving) archaebacteria<br />

sampled from inside of microscopic brine<br />

bubbles enclosed in chunks of solid rock salt mined from<br />

deep in an Austrian salt mine. These microbes, Halococcus<br />

salifodinae, were isolated in 2002 and subsequently<br />

scientifically described. They are presumed to have remained<br />

viable since their entrapment within the rock<br />

salt about 250 million years ago! Although such a life<br />

span may sound utterly beyond belief, there are now a<br />

significant number of studies indicating that these, and<br />

numerous similar examples of living bacteria, actually<br />

have lived that entire length of time, slowly metabolizing<br />

various nutrients from the fluid inclusions where<br />

they are found. These organisms may be clones of their<br />

ancient progenitors or they may actually be the same<br />

organisms that were alive at the beginning of their entrapment,<br />

well before the first dinosaurs were the dream<br />

for the future of some archaic reptile; in either case,<br />

CORAL<br />

75


the same genome is likely present, and both the genome<br />

and the asexually reproducing individual could have the<br />

same immense age.<br />

Scientists who study corals recognize two major lineages<br />

of scleractinian corals: “robust” corals and “complex”<br />

corals. Although it is too much of a simplification<br />

to say that all robust corals, such as Porites, form massive<br />

colonies and all complex corals, such as acroporids, form<br />

branching colonies, there is a trend that way. Tropical<br />

reef corals generally have the capability to reproduce<br />

asexually by fragmentation, but this is much more prevalent<br />

in the branching corals. Probably the best example<br />

of this would be a shallow-water Indo-Pacific Acropora<br />

thicket or the “used-to-be” Acropora cervicornis meadows<br />

in the Caribbean. Every time a reef-pounding storm<br />

blew through, the coral fragmented and started anew.<br />

This was natural coral fragging on a huge scale; but how<br />

old is any piece of that mass of fragments? The genome<br />

that was in the original founder polyp might conceivably<br />

be centuries old, but it would be very hard to find it and<br />

confirm that, although if the original attachment skeleton<br />

was still present, radiometric means would be capable<br />

of determining it. The original coral may be either<br />

long, long, long dead or very much alive. But the coral’s<br />

genome lives on in a lot of places. A question one might<br />

ask is, “Once established, how long does the genome in<br />

one of these coral thickets live?” I suspect the answer<br />

will be: “Until global climate change wipes out the whole<br />

clonal population.”<br />

Porites lobata, one of several<br />

massive, mounding species in a<br />

genus whose oldest known member<br />

has been found to be more than<br />

1,000 years of age.<br />

COUNTING THE CANDLES ON THE CORAL<br />

CAKE<br />

How can the age of a coral be determined? This is where<br />

the nitty of the coral “type” meets the gritty of age. The<br />

ages of different coral types have to be determined differently,<br />

and as such are not strictly<br />

comparable. Many scleractinians,<br />

particularly the massive<br />

forms, such as Porites, deposit<br />

their skeletons continuously in<br />

a manner analogous to the way tree rings are formed.<br />

The polyp sits in the skeletal cup, or corallite, and secretes<br />

new skeleton at the interface between the coral’s<br />

epidermis and the adjacent skeleton. Skeletal density<br />

varies depending on the available light and the temperature,<br />

and these physical factors, in turn, vary in a<br />

predictable manner thoughout the year. As a result, just<br />

like tree rings, the skeleton produced by a massive coral<br />

shows growth banding.<br />

At the other extreme of the animals called “corals”<br />

is the black coral, whose skeleton is wholly a hardened<br />

proteinaceous material. These animals may deposit yearly<br />

growth rings or increments, but they are usually too<br />

small to measure, particularly in slowly growing individuals.<br />

However, as they grow, these animals incorporate<br />

carbon isotopes in their skeletons, and with careful sampling<br />

the differences in the isotope ratios can be used to<br />

determine age by radiometric means.<br />

Finally, some of the octocorals, such as gorgonians<br />

and sea pens, have an internal skeleton containing sizable<br />

amounts of both protein and calcium carbonate.<br />

PETER ISDALE/AIMS<br />

76 CORAL


Australian researchers<br />

taking core samples from a<br />

large Porites colony to track<br />

weather patterns going back<br />

centuries and recorded in the<br />

coral’s growth layers.<br />

ERIC MATSON/AIMS<br />

Depending on the species, either banding or radiometric<br />

means (or both) may be necessary to determine the individual’s<br />

age.<br />

LIFE SPANS<br />

Ages have been determined for some representative corals,<br />

and they range from about 11 years to over 4,000<br />

years (Table 1). A quick perusal of Table 1 shows that<br />

the ages appear to vary by coral taxonomic type and by<br />

depth. Presently, the few data we have tend to indicate<br />

that deep-water corals live a lot longer than shallowwater<br />

corals. This is probably due to increased predation<br />

and environmental perturbations in shallower habitats.<br />

However, keep in mind that the ages of very few coral<br />

species or specimens have been determined, so generalizations<br />

should be considered very tentative. As more corals<br />

are investigated, corals that, as a species, tend to grow<br />

older will be found. Likewise, older individuals of what<br />

are normally considered to be short-lived species will be<br />

found, so the known life spans of corals will become longer.<br />

Additionally, the listed data are only approximations<br />

of the maximum ages of the species listed; in virtually<br />

all cases these data are from very small sample sizes (in<br />

some cases, the sample size was one). Therefore, these<br />

numbers should all be regarded as minimal and tentative<br />

estimates of the maximum ages.<br />

Given the wide array of animals covered by the blanket<br />

name of “coral,” it stands to reason that there is a<br />

wide variety of “oldest” ages for the various types of corals.<br />

As part of the process of determining the age of a<br />

coral, it is necessary to specify the type of coral in question.<br />

Most aquarium hobbyists probably assume that the<br />

corals are scleractinians or “stony” corals, but even here,<br />

the answer is complicated by the fundamental diversity<br />

of the group, the habitats occupied by the various species,<br />

and the evolutionary history of the specific species.<br />

Consequently, I divided the table into various sections by<br />

the type of coral.<br />

THE ELDERS<br />

Although corals are commonly thought of as tropical<br />

animals, fewer than half of the described coral species<br />

CORAL<br />

77


are found on shallow-water tropical reefs, and most of<br />

the unknown species are presumed to be in deep-water<br />

habitats. In terms of higher-level taxonomic diversity,<br />

far more types of corals are found in areas other than<br />

tropical reefs. This richness in different coral varieties is<br />

particularly evident in deeper waters, as has become increasing<br />

apparent over the last decade or two. So far, over<br />

3,300 species of stony corals alone have been recorded<br />

from the deep sea.<br />

It is worth remembering that the largest coral reef<br />

in United States waters is in neither Hawai’i nor Florida<br />

but in Alaska, off the south edge of the Aleutian arc, and<br />

it is, for all intents and purposes, biologically unknown.<br />

Very old Porites lobata on the Great Barrier Reef, Australia,<br />

forming an intertidal ‘micro-atoll’ where its top has eroded.<br />

But it is true that a few shallow-water temperate stony<br />

corals are amongst the better known of all coral species.<br />

In these cases, it appears easier to focus on the biological<br />

attributes of a single coral species, if there are only one<br />

or two species found in the region.<br />

In the shallow waters of the west coast of North<br />

America, the most common coral is the beautiful solitary<br />

cup coral, Balanophyllia elegans. Large individuals reach<br />

about an inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Lacking zooxanthellae,<br />

they are completely dependent on feeding for their<br />

nutrition; as a result, small B. elegans polyps grow slowly.<br />

In most areas they probably take about a decade, or a bit<br />

more, to reach sexual maturity. After that their growth<br />

rate slows as excess energy is put into gamete production<br />

rather than growth. As with many tropical corals,<br />

B. elegans broods its larvae. They are released from the<br />

parent in the autumn or winter, when the planulae glide<br />

like flatworms out of their mother’s mouth. Unlike most<br />

tropical corals, these larvae only disperse about 4 inches<br />

(10 cm) before metamorphosing into small polyps.<br />

Native to the region from central California to south<br />

central Alaska referred to as the Oregonian biome, arguably<br />

the most ecologically dynamic temperate marine<br />

area known, these small corals face a perilous existence.<br />

The bottom is rife with predators, from crabs to snails<br />

to flatworms, and although it might be theoretically<br />

possible for any given individual to have a long life, the<br />

odds of being eaten set an upper age limit for any B.<br />

elegans population. In the southern<br />

parts of the species’ range, a<br />

few individuals from each year’s<br />

spawning cohort will last to the<br />

ripe old age of 40 years or so before<br />

their number is up. In more<br />

northern areas, it appears that<br />

the hazards facing the polyps are<br />

much more intense, and the longest-lived<br />

individuals do not live<br />

much beyond 10 to 11 years. Few<br />

temperate shallow-water corals<br />

have been investigated, but short<br />

life spans appear to the rule: two<br />

Mediterranean species, B. europaea<br />

and Leptopsammia pruvoti,<br />

have measured life spans within<br />

the extremes known for B. elegans.<br />

Being colonial rather than<br />

solitary, and possibly living in<br />

tropical rather than temperate<br />

waters, may confer a survival advantage<br />

on shallow-water stony<br />

corals. That statement, however, has to be taken as a cautionary<br />

note rather than as a dictum. Relatively few data<br />

on the maximum ages of tropical reef stony corals are<br />

available, and these are, almost without exception, from<br />

massive species, such as Porites. As some of these Porites<br />

colonies are the largest known coral colonies, the ages for<br />

them are probably good approximations of the maximum<br />

ages for tropical massive stony corals. Porites species are<br />

found throughout the tropics and large individuals have<br />

been commonly found, in both the Caribbean and Indo-<br />

Pacific, to reach ages of about 300 to 400 years. Generally,<br />

these are large individuals that have been “cored”<br />

and their growth bands counted. A few exceptionally<br />

large colonies of (presumably) Porites lutea have been<br />

described from various parts of the Indo-Pacific. Based<br />

on comparison with smaller colonies and using known<br />

grow rates, these massive individuals are estimated to be<br />

from about 350 to over 1,000 years old. These animals<br />

are simply too large to reliably core, so estimated ages are<br />

ED LOVEL/AIMS: HTTP://CORAL.AIMS.GOV.AU/<br />

78 CORAL


TABLE 1.<br />

Measured or determined coral ages. Depth of the specimen: S = less than 100 m, D = more than 100 m. Zoox = Zooxanthellae<br />

present. Est = Values estimated or “quantitatively” determined based on measured growth rates and other data.<br />

AGES<br />

CLASS ANTHOZOA SPECIES (YEARS) DEPTH ZOOX REFERENCES<br />

Hexacorallia<br />

Scleractinia Balanophyllia elegans 11 S No Fadlallah, 1985<br />

Leptopsammia pruvoti 13 S No Goffredo et al., 2010<br />

Balanophyllia europaea 20 S No Goffredo et al., 2004<br />

Balanophyllia elegans 30–40 S No Gerrodette, 1979<br />

Desmophyllum cristagalli 200+ Est D No Risk et al., 2002<br />

Enallopsammia rostrata 200 D No Adkins et al., 2004<br />

605 Houlbrèque et al., 2010<br />

Porites lutea 221 S Yes Hudson, 1985<br />

360–800 Est Brown et al., 2009<br />

Lophelia sp. 366 D No Breeze et al., 1997<br />

Porites sp. 425 S Yes Hendy et al., 2003<br />

Porites lutea 1000+ Est S Yes Soong, 1999<br />

Octocorallia<br />

Pennatulacea Ptilosarcus gurneyi 25 S No Birkeland, 1972<br />

Halipteris willemoesi 44 S No Wilson et al., 2002<br />

Gorgonacea Corallium secundum 71 D No Roark et al., 2006<br />

Antipatharia<br />

Muricea sp. 100 S Yes Grigg, 1974<br />

Corallium rubrum 105 S No Gallmetzer et al., 2010<br />

Primnoa resedaeformis 112 D No Andrews et al., 2002<br />

Corallium sp. 220 D No Druffel et al., 1990<br />

Paragorgia arborata 200–400 D No Tracy, D. et al. 2003<br />

Primnoa resedaeformis 300+ Est D No Risk et al., 2002<br />

Savalia sp. 450 D No Roark et al., 2006<br />

1,800 Druffel et al., 1995<br />

2,742 Roark et al., 2009<br />

Antipathes dichotoma 32 S No Roark et al., 2006<br />

Leiopathes sp. 4,265 D No Roark et al., 2009<br />

Leiopathes glaberrima 2,377 D No Roark et al., 2006<br />

CLASS HYDROZOA<br />

Milleporina Millepora sp. 10 S No Lewis, 2006<br />

probably all that we will ever have for them.<br />

In 2009 the largest and, probably, oldest massive coral<br />

yet to be found, a huge mushroom-shaped Porites lutea<br />

colony, was described as being located in 56 feet (17 m)<br />

of water in American Samoa. It appears healthy; about<br />

98 percent of the upper surface area is covered with living<br />

tissue. Excluding the surface covering the non-living<br />

basal skeleton upon which it rests, the maximum arcs<br />

across the upper surface measure 112 x 66 feet (34 x<br />

20 m). Assuming a smooth hemispherical surface and<br />

a polyp size of 1 mm 2 , the living tissue contains an estimated<br />

200 million polyps. The skeleton was estimated to<br />

CORAL<br />

79


Savalia savaglia, formerly known as<br />

Gerardia savaglia, a deepwater species<br />

photographed by NOAA’s Hawai’i Undersea<br />

Research Laboratory.<br />

have a dry weight of approximately 440 billion pounds<br />

(129 metric tons). Taking into account the annual mean<br />

water temperature, the core skeletal density, and published<br />

upward growth rates of about 0.4 inch (1 cm)<br />

per year for massive Porites, this giant was estimated to<br />

be between 360 and 800 years old, although there are<br />

enough fudge factors built into the calculations that it<br />

could be considerably older. Similar, and possibly older,<br />

Porites colonies have been described from Taiwan; however,<br />

because they are significantly damaged, their age<br />

determinations are somewhat questionable.<br />

Although it certainly is the case with Porites, it doesn’t<br />

necessarily follow that other old stony coral colonies are<br />

huge. Small individuals with very slow growth rates undoubtedly<br />

exist. Nor does it necessarily follow that the<br />

most massive colonies are the oldest of the scleractinia.<br />

Individuals of very old branching species, such as staghorn<br />

Acropora, may well exist but be indistinguishable<br />

from young individuals due to the pattern of fragmentation<br />

and regrowth exhibited by these species. Growth<br />

rates of Acropora cervicornis in its heyday were as much<br />

as 10 inches (25 cm) per year in elongation. These corals<br />

propagated and spread primarily by fragmentation.<br />

In other words, their whole physiological growth pattern<br />

precluded colonies that were large and old. If these acroporids<br />

had a philosophy of growth, it would be: “Live<br />

Fast, Break Young, Grow Everywhere, Repeat as Necessary.”<br />

The possibilities for growth patterns resulting in<br />

very old, shallow-water, tropical coral reef corals appear<br />

almost endless, but much more work to determine ages<br />

must be done.<br />

STONED IN THE DEEPS<br />

Both solitary and colonial stony corals that are more<br />

than a century old have been found in cold deep-water<br />

regions. A large, solitary cup coral, Desmophyllum cristagalli,<br />

has fist-sized polyps reaching<br />

about 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter.<br />

Specimens of D. cristagalli over 200<br />

years old have been found throughout<br />

the world’s oceans at depths from<br />

about 328 feet (100 m) to over 2.5<br />

miles (4000 m).<br />

Colonial stony corals, such as<br />

Enallopsammia rostrata and various<br />

Lophelia species, have also been found<br />

together with D. cristagalli throughout<br />

the world in similar depths. Although<br />

smaller, nowhere near as robust, and<br />

often white, E. rostrata colonies bear<br />

a passing resemblance to the large, greenish, branching<br />

Tubastraea micrantha found commonly in shallow<br />

waters in the Indo-Pacific. Individuals of many E.<br />

rostrata colonies have been determined to be between<br />

200 and 600 years old.<br />

Some Lophelia colonies are bizarre-looking,<br />

growing into three-dimensional meshes over 10<br />

feet (3 m) high that somewhat resemble the skeletons<br />

of geodesic domes, with the 1.2-inch (3-<br />

cm) diameter polyps being found at the points<br />

where various branches connect. Smaller Lophelia<br />

species, under 3.25 feet (1 m) high, often<br />

contribute the majority of the structure in many<br />

deep-water reefs. Lophelia specimens have been<br />

commonly found to be in excess of a century old,<br />

and many samples are older than 300 years. Although<br />

as old as some Porites, these deep-water<br />

colonies are not particularly large; their growth<br />

rates are much slower, which is probably due to<br />

food limitation rather than temperature.<br />

OCTOCORAL AGES<br />

The octocoral groups are taxonomically as much<br />

of a mess as are the scleractinians. In particular,<br />

the leather corals have recently been found to<br />

be essentially unidentifiable using current/traditional<br />

methods. Fortunately for this article, the<br />

ages of leather corals cannot effectively be determined—a<br />

fact that, in this case, likely saves a lot<br />

of authorial arm waving.<br />

The sea pens form one good octocorallian<br />

group whose taxonomy actually makes sense, being<br />

supported by both genetic and anatomical<br />

characteristics. Given the situation in the rest of<br />

the corals, this fact deserves a GASP! of taxonomic<br />

astonishment. Sea pens are mobile soft corals<br />

LEFT: HURL WWW.SOEST.HAWAII.EDU/HURL/ RIGHT: BRIAN J. SKERRY/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC STOCK<br />

80 CORAL


that anchor themselves in soft, unconsolidated sediments.<br />

Lacking any protective skeleton, they are meals<br />

for any predators that can eat them, and at least one<br />

species, Ptilosarcus gurneyi, has even been described as a<br />

primary resource species because of the number of predators<br />

that the sea pen populations support—four species<br />

each of sea stars and nudibranchs. It literally forms the<br />

basis for its community, but does so by “acting” more<br />

like a plant than an animal. The life histories of a couple<br />

of shallow-water, temperate region sea pens have been<br />

determined, and their maximum ages range from 25 to<br />

40 years. Like the small, temperate stony coral Balanophyllia<br />

elegans, sea pens survive by avoiding predation, at<br />

the same time running the predation gauntlet of huge<br />

populations of predators. Although they probably have<br />

the potential to live much longer, the odds don’t favor<br />

longevity for these shallow-water species. There are many<br />

populations of deeper-water sea pens, however, whose<br />

life histories are essentially unknown, and these animals<br />

may, like other deep-water corals, live much longer than<br />

some of their shallow-water cousins.<br />

FANNING OUT<br />

Appearing rather flimsy compared to stony corals, sea fans<br />

don’t get the respect they deserve. Being built to bend, flex,<br />

and go with the flow, gorgonians appear to be unlikely<br />

candidates for extreme longevity. However, as is often the<br />

case with marine animals, appearances are deceiving. The<br />

longest-lived of the shallow-water species that have been<br />

aged to date appear to live a century or two. Some deep-sea<br />

species, however, are some the longest living of all animals.<br />

Paragorgia and Primnoa species, common in all seas<br />

below 328 feet (100 m), appear to routinely live around<br />

300 to 400 years. The record holders, however, are species<br />

of Savalia. It is difficult to be sure just what species is being<br />

examined, though; the usual taxonomic problems of corals<br />

strike here, too. Nonetheless, that the specimens are<br />

from Savalia there is no doubt. Referred to as “gold coral”<br />

for the color of the jewelry their skeletons are turned into,<br />

Savalia are moderately sized gorgonians, reaching around<br />

3.25 feet (1 m) in height.<br />

Several specimens were recently collected in waters<br />

around some of the islands of Hawai’i from depths of<br />

Dr. Enric Salas discovering a previously unknown lobed<br />

stony coral, believed to be 500 years old, on Kingman<br />

Reef in the northern Line Islands.<br />

CORAL<br />

81


around 1,476 feet (450 m), where the water temperature<br />

is between 46 and 54°F (8–12°C), or roughly the<br />

same as that found in Puget Sound, Washington; the age<br />

of one of these was determined to be 2,742 years. The<br />

specimens were not very large, less than 6.5 feet (2 m)<br />

in height, and the radial growth rates of the branches,<br />

or how fast a branch got thicker, were extremely low at<br />

0.013–0.001 inch (4–35 μm) per year. Savalia individuals<br />

of such ancient age are not restricted to Hawai’ian<br />

waters; a Savalia skeleton that had lived 1,800 years before<br />

it died was recently recovered near the Bahamas.<br />

Large stand of staghorn Acropora.<br />

Because they reproduce by fragmenting,<br />

a particular genome could theoretically<br />

be millions of years old.<br />

THINGS ARE LOOKING BLACK<br />

The Antipatharians, or black corals, are corals that have<br />

wholly proteinaceous skeletons and small polyps with<br />

only six tentacles. Typically found in deeper waters, a few<br />

species are common at diving depths, and occasionally a<br />

specimen is collected for the aquarium hobby. They may<br />

be quite large, particularly the whip-like wire or whip<br />

corals, Cirripathes species, which may reach over 16 feet<br />

(5 m) in length as they extend from deep reef walls, but<br />

most branching black corals look rather like gorgonians<br />

and are found in the same size range, up to 65 feet (a<br />

couple of meters) high. The common name, black coral,<br />

reflects the color of the skeleton, not the color of the living<br />

tissue, which typically is in hues of orange or yellow<br />

for shallower forms.<br />

Some of the deep-water species are stark white, as are<br />

individuals of a number of other deep-water species, particularly<br />

those of the stony coral Lophelia. Because the<br />

skeletons of black corals are proteinaceous, their ages are<br />

typically determined radiometrically, primarily using the<br />

abundance of the radioactive 14 C isotope of carbon incorporated<br />

into them as it was deposited. This isotope decays<br />

into the stable 12 C at a known and highly calibrated rate.<br />

By measuring the proportional abundances of both carbon<br />

isotopes, the age of the sample can be determined.<br />

To measure the ages of these corals, very small samples<br />

of the skeleton are vaporized and the isotope abundances<br />

are determined; then, using some reference data, it is<br />

relatively easy to determine the age of the sample. Examination<br />

of a few specimens of Antipathes dichotoma<br />

from shallow, 164-foot-deep (50-m) Hawai’ian waters<br />

showed ages from 12 to 32 years. These colonies were<br />

also growing quite rapidly, adding as much as 0.04 inch<br />

(1.1 mm) in branch diameter per year. On the other<br />

hand, samples from several individual corals in what are<br />

probably several different species of Leiopathes are the<br />

“All-Coral” winners of the “olde age lottery.” One specimen<br />

each of an indeterminate species and Leiopathes glaberrima<br />

from near Hawai’i were 4,265 and 2,377 years<br />

old, respectively. The radial growth rates of these colonies<br />

were less than 5μm per year. Leiopathes species are ubiquitous<br />

in the deep sea and have been collected from the<br />

Northwest Pacific, near Antarctica, and many areas in<br />

between. Given that the ages of fewer than a dozen speci-<br />

CBPIX/SHUTTERSTOCK<br />

82 CORAL


TK<br />

CORAL<br />

83


mens from this genus appear to have been determined,<br />

the odds must be considerable that the ages of older animals—maybe<br />

vastly older animals—await discovery.<br />

FIRE IN THE HOLE<br />

There is really no way to age the calcareous skeletons<br />

of hydrocorals, and that presents particular problems in<br />

determining their ages. They form small colonies, but it<br />

certainly appears that some of them, particularly some<br />

of the colder water stylasterines, may live quite long.<br />

The few ecological studies on them indicate that once<br />

the colony gets about a year old, it may last decades, but<br />

there are no definitive data on how long they last. No<br />

ecological studies have been undertaken that give any<br />

idea of the parameters of individual growth rates, mortality<br />

rates, or causes of death.<br />

On the other hand, the milleporines, or fire corals,<br />

of tropical reefs that form the other end of the coral age<br />

scale from the deep-water “oldies” are reasonably well<br />

studied. Fire corals are rapidly growing, highly adventitious,<br />

and temporally transitory animals. In other words,<br />

they are the coral equivalent of weeds and possess an<br />

ecological growth strategy that can be summed up with<br />

the phrase: “Live Fast, Die Young, and Leave a Butt-Ugly<br />

Corpse.” Varying from reef to reef and species to species,<br />

a reasonable average for the maximum age of most fire<br />

coral colonies is about a decade. Maximal growth rates<br />

appear to be around an inch (2.5 cm) a year.<br />

SO…HOW OLD CAN A CORAL GET?<br />

Obviously, it depends on the coral—both the coral type<br />

and the specific coral species within any given type.<br />

What it doesn’t seem to depend upon is geographical<br />

region; old corals of one sort or another may be found<br />

anywhere and everywhere. In Table 1, I have given a few<br />

representative data about the extreme life spans for various<br />

types of coral living in various habitats. Perhaps a<br />

general rule of coral longevity may be developed, but if<br />

so that rule—and the work to support it—are still largely<br />

in the future. In the interim, it is probably best to deal<br />

with those few coral species whose longevities have been<br />

determined on a case-by-case basis.<br />

Given the paucity of examples, it is prudent to avoid<br />

drawing too many conclusions about coral ages, but<br />

gingerly stepping out on the limb of the fragile branching<br />

Acropora, I will make some. First, it appears that on<br />

average, deep-water corals probably live longer than do<br />

shallow-water ones. Second, it appears that long-lived<br />

corals are slow-growing corals. Finally, there is the wild<br />

card of asexual reproduction. To date, there has been<br />

no study that gives us a handle on the longevity of the<br />

genomes of highly fragmenting corals, such as various<br />

84 CORAL


species of Acropora. Acroporids made their evolutionary<br />

appearance about 35 million years ago, and if some of<br />

the early species had the tendency to fragment, it is possible,<br />

albeit unlikely, that some of the early genomes are<br />

still with us, in a manner analogous to bdelloid rotifers.<br />

Each individual fragment of the clone might only live<br />

a few years, but clonal offspring could be around for a<br />

long, long time.<br />

It has been said many times by many biologists, including<br />

the one writing this article, that at least some<br />

corals may have the unrealized potential to live forever,<br />

but obviously that is not necessarily true. Recent work<br />

has shown that individual polyps may be subject to senescence<br />

in Madracis mirabilis, and that, while the colony<br />

may live a long time, any given polyp<br />

may live no longer than a decade or two.<br />

Thus, in colonial corals, while the whole<br />

colony may live much longer, the polyps<br />

comprising it may be replaced regularly.<br />

Polyp replacement has not been investigated<br />

in other corals, leaving a lot of<br />

unanswered questions. For example, is<br />

this property found only in zooxanthellate<br />

corals? Or is it found only in certain<br />

evolutionary lineages of colonial corals?<br />

Recall that there are two main groups of<br />

stony corals, the robust and the complex<br />

lineages; colonial corals are found<br />

within each group, but the dynamics of<br />

polyp formation and replacement have<br />

not been compared either within or between<br />

them.<br />

Do all colonies replace polyps? If so,<br />

does the manner of polyp replacement<br />

have a bearing on longevity? If not, is<br />

the presence or absence of replacement<br />

correlated in any way to life span? And if<br />

polyps are replaced in all/some colonial<br />

corals, what happens in solitary corals?<br />

Is there, for example, some inherent factor<br />

that limits the ages of coral polyps<br />

and, by inference, solitary corals? And<br />

what about the non-scleractinians?<br />

Obviously, corals probably don’t live<br />

forever; but some of them may live a<br />

very long time, indeed. The growth rates<br />

of corals given in this article vary over<br />

a factor of 6,250, from about 4 μm/<br />

year to about 25,000 μm/year; if these<br />

growth rates were all assumed to be linear<br />

extensions, then in a million years<br />

these rates would give length extensions<br />

of 13 feet (4 m) to 15.5 miles (25 km)<br />

for corals at each of these extremes.<br />

While a coral growing 15 miles in length<br />

seems very unlikely, a coral growing 13<br />

FIRST<br />

feet seems entirely possible. And what about a coral that<br />

breaks frequently? Could the cumulative linear growth<br />

of all of the “offspring” from one branch be miles in<br />

length after a million years of fragging? I certainly think<br />

it is possible, even likely. And then there is the question<br />

of how old some of the biggest of the very slow-growing<br />

deep-sea corals are. The number of individual corals<br />

from the deep sea whose ages have been determined and<br />

published is far less than 100. Who knows what awaits a<br />

diligent researcher curious about coral ages?<br />

REFERENCES:<br />

http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/content/elders-referencesage-corals<br />

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CORAL<br />

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The author with a<br />

rich haul: juveniles<br />

of the Bermuda<br />

Blue Angelfish,<br />

Holacanthus<br />

bermudensis.<br />

Long Island Gold Rush<br />

article and images by Todd Gardner<br />

Each summer, a sort of gold rush<br />

takes place in the waters off<br />

Long Island, New York, as<br />

crazed marine aquarium<br />

hobbyists flock to the<br />

inlets and bays of the<br />

south shore in search<br />

of exotic marine life.<br />

The appearance of<br />

these organisms—<br />

most of which are<br />

fishes—is the result<br />

of a combination of<br />

oceanographic and<br />

biological phenomena.<br />

Here is a brief explanation<br />

of why it happens.<br />

86 CORAL


Aquarists armed with nets go hunting for the exotic<br />

coral fishes that suddenly appear by the thousands<br />

off the coast of Long Island in the summer months.<br />

The Gulf Stream flows northward along the Atlantic<br />

coast of North America. It is part of a larger current system,<br />

called the North Atlantic Gyre, that encircles the<br />

entire North Atlantic Ocean. Although the Gulf Stream<br />

is a surface current, it runs deep enough that it is bound<br />

by the continental shelf. This explains why tropical<br />

reef communities can be found in the inshore waters<br />

of south Florida, well outside of the tropics, where the<br />

continental shelf is very close to the shore. It also allows<br />

tropical communities to flourish offshore on a narrow<br />

band of the continental shelf as far north as Cape<br />

Hatteras, North Carolina. The shape of Cape Hatteras<br />

and its submarine extension, the continental shelf—<br />

along with some help from the Coriolis effect—acts to<br />

deflect the rapidly flowing Gulf Stream to the east of its<br />

northward course. This puts the tropical, clear blue current<br />

several hundred miles east of the coastline by the<br />

time it reaches the latitude of Long Island. At its closest<br />

approach to Long Island, the Gulf Stream averages approximately<br />

200 miles away (to the southeast). North of<br />

Cape Hatteras, the Gulf Stream is free of any continental<br />

boundaries and its course becomes more erratic, shifting<br />

and oscillating as a result of wind and the opposing<br />

Labrador Current.<br />

The Gulf Stream is just one of many factors contributing<br />

to the climate and the species composition of<br />

marine communities in New York and the rest of the<br />

northeastern United States. Sport fishermen in search<br />

of migratory species like tuna, mahi-mahi, and billfish<br />

track eddies that spin off the main current and bring<br />

The warm waters of the Gulf Stream, indicated in red, flow<br />

northward, carrying tropical species to the cold North Atlantic.<br />

pockets of tropical water closer to shore. Some of the<br />

best fishing takes place at the boundary between the<br />

warm tropical water of the Gulf Stream and the cool,<br />

nutrient-rich water of the Labrador Current.<br />

The ubiquitous Bluefish, Pomatomus saltatrix, uses<br />

the Gulf Stream to disperse its larvae along the U.S.<br />

coastline. The larvae develop as they ride the Gulf<br />

Stream; then, taking cues from wave patterns, they head<br />

for the coast when they reach a critical point in their<br />

development. Like most marine fish species, the Bluefish<br />

has a small pelagic larval stage. This reproductive strategy<br />

is about producing an enormous number of offspring,<br />

but putting very little energy into each one (the opposite<br />

of our human reproductive strategy). It’s a common<br />

CORAL<br />

87


Among the species caught<br />

off the Long Island coast<br />

in the summer, attractively<br />

colored damselfishes like<br />

this Cocoa Damselfish,<br />

Pomacentrus variabilis,<br />

are the most suitable for<br />

domestic aquariums.<br />

approach among invertebrates and fishes, and when it<br />

is applied in a dynamic aquatic environment like the<br />

ocean, it has tremendous dispersal value. Just look at the<br />

diversity of marine life around even the most remote of<br />

tropical islands, or the extensive geographic range of a<br />

single successful species like the Moorish Idol, Zanclus<br />

cornutus, in the Pacific.<br />

Of course, this strategy has its drawbacks, most notably<br />

a very low survival rate among offspring. Furthermore,<br />

if a marine fish larva spawned in an ocean current<br />

like the Gulf Stream is lucky enough to survive its planktonic<br />

stage by avoiding predators and finding enough to<br />

eat in the nutrient-poor tropical water, there is still another<br />

big hurdle to leap, and whether it can do so or not<br />

falls largely to chance. The probability of any individual<br />

larva ending up in a suitable habitat is small. Keep in<br />

mind that most fish species live in relatively shallow water<br />

and maintain a close association with some benthic<br />

substrate (reef, sand, grass bed), but the average depth<br />

of the ocean is more than 12,000 ft (3,790 meters). So<br />

when a larval fish, adrift on the open ocean, reaches that<br />

critical point of settlement—when it needs to leave the<br />

plankton community and head for the substrate to continue<br />

its juvenile development—there’s a good chance it<br />

will be riding on top of the dark, near-freezing waters of<br />

the abyss. Even if a larva is lucky enough to come into<br />

contact with an island, reef, or continental margin, it<br />

still may not reach a place that can provide the requisite<br />

habitat within a suitable climate zone. For the tropical<br />

fishes that end up in the waters off New York, this is<br />

where their luck runs out. Although they may be luckier<br />

than the ones that become stranded over the abyss, in<br />

that they have an opportunity to survive and grow for<br />

at least part of a season, most of them will die when the<br />

water temperature dips below their tolerance threshold.<br />

As soon as the ocean water warms to about 68°F<br />

(20°C), which usually occurs in late June or early July,<br />

the first post-larval tropical fishes can be found in the<br />

shallow waters of any bay that opens directly to the<br />

ocean. Often the first arrivals include groupers (Serranidae),<br />

goatfishes (Mullidae), and jacks (Carangidae).<br />

Other species, including butterflyfishes (Chaetodontidae),<br />

filefishes (Monacanthidae), and bigeyes (Priacanthidae),<br />

tend to show up a few weeks later. As the summer<br />

progresses, the abundance and diversity of tropical<br />

species continues to increase until it reaches its peak<br />

sometime in early September.<br />

For local aquarium hobbyists this phenomenon presents<br />

an opportunity to get a taste of<br />

life on the opposite end of the supply<br />

chain, and although many collectors<br />

will tell you that they do it to save<br />

money on stocking their aquariums,<br />

they won’t think twice about spending<br />

all afternoon (some using diving<br />

and collecting gear worth thousands<br />

of dollars) to outsmart a $3 damselfish<br />

occupying a difficult crevice. At<br />

some of the most popular collecting<br />

sites you can see a steady stream of<br />

bucket- and net-wielding fish col-<br />

Juvenile Spotfin Butterflyfishes,<br />

Chaetodon ocellatus, at Long Island<br />

Aquarium and Exhibition Center,<br />

formerly Atlantis Marine World.<br />

88 CORAL


Above: A frequent summer visitor off Long Island, the<br />

Short Bigeye (Pristigenys alta).<br />

Right: Juvenile Queen Triggerfish, Balistes vetula.<br />

lectors coming and going all day long, with peak<br />

activity centered around the tides. Some of them<br />

march proudly back from the shoreline displaying<br />

their catch, while others are more secretive,<br />

keeping their bucket lids as tight as their lips.<br />

At high tide, when the seawater is clearest,<br />

SCUBA divers dominate the scene, whereas snorkelers<br />

and seine netters tend to prefer low tide,<br />

when the subtidal zone is most accessible to the<br />

unfortunate souls who are bound to the surface<br />

for air. Another group waits until nightfall to<br />

descend upon the marinas and tide pools with<br />

spotlights and dipnets. Whether it’s a slumbering<br />

Spotfin Butterflyfish (Chaetodon ocellatus) or<br />

a nocturnal bigeye, almost any fish frozen in the beam of<br />

a bright light is an easy catch.<br />

Most of the people I run into collecting stray tropicals<br />

are just doing it for fun. They are aquarium hobbyists<br />

trying to feed their addiction by playing an active role<br />

in the acquisition of their animals. Aquarists are generally<br />

proud to show off their tanks, but when they’re able<br />

to say “I caught all these fish myself, and there’s a story<br />

behind each one—I nearly got swept out to sea trying to<br />

catch that tang,” or “Here’s the scar from where that<br />

jet ski grazed my head while I was trying to coax that<br />

Blue Angel out from under a cement drain pipe,” it becomes<br />

much more impressive—especially in a place like<br />

New York that isn’t usually associated with tropical reef<br />

communities. Of course, there will always be people who<br />

can’t be satisfied to simply enjoy a hobby, and either try<br />

to profit from it or just become obsessed. I fall into the<br />

obsessed group. If I had had any aspirations of making<br />

money, I would have chosen a very different career path.<br />

The idea of trying to start a business that revolves<br />

around this phenomenon has certainly crossed my mind,<br />

and probably the minds of everyone who has been out<br />

there filling coolers with butterflyfishes and lookdowns<br />

in the near-perfect weather of a Long Island Indian summer;<br />

but when you stop to consider that there are really<br />

only two months of decent collecting, and that the species<br />

abundance and diversity from year to year are completely<br />

unpredictable, it becomes evident that it is just<br />

not feasible. Nevertheless, every year I see or hear about<br />

someone trying to do just that. Of course, in principle I<br />

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love the idea. Can you think of any kind of fish collecting<br />

that is more sustainable than this? Many of these fishes<br />

will not make it through the first week of November.<br />

From the moment they entered the Gulf Stream, they<br />

were removed from their population permanently. For<br />

every stray tropical that makes it into the trade, there<br />

is one less fish that needs to be removed from its reproductive<br />

population in the tropics…right? Well, that’s<br />

a matter for debate. The marine aquarium trade craves<br />

diversity, and the fact is that the most common species<br />

we see in New York waters are not necessarily among the<br />

Much prized by aquarists: the little Striped Burrfish,<br />

Chilomycterus schoepfi. This one has inflated itself with water<br />

in response to capture. It must be handled very gently to avoid<br />

injuring it.<br />

most in-demand species in the trade. Would an infusion<br />

of Spotfin Butterflyfish, Lookdowns (Selene vomer), Short<br />

Bigeyes (Pristigenys alta), and Snowy Groupers (Epinephelus<br />

niveatus) really have any impact on the number of<br />

fishes being imported from the Caribbean or the Indo-<br />

Pacific? Probably not, so I’ll steer clear of the claim that<br />

this could help fish populations in the tropics. But while<br />

I don’t believe there is such a thing as zero-impact fishing,<br />

collecting stray tropicals outside of their range must<br />

be about as close as you can get.<br />

Some of the most exciting days of my life have been<br />

spent collecting tropicals in the cool, murky waters off<br />

Long Island, but I’ve also had a lot of terrible days out<br />

there. I’ve seen a lot of people collecting who are not exactly<br />

striving for zero impact. In case you’re now considering<br />

mounting an excursion to the coast to save some<br />

doomed tropical fishes while stocking your aquarium,<br />

here are some tips to help keep your activities rewarding,<br />

fun, legal, and sustainable:<br />

1. Know your species. An exotic-looking fish is not necessarily<br />

tropical. For example, the Lined Seahorse, Hippocampus<br />

erectus, is not a tropical, but a resident species,<br />

and individuals from the northern population don’t<br />

thrive in tropical aquariums. Also, we have two local species<br />

of wrasse. They both require cold water and one of<br />

them is strictly regulated as a food and sport fish. It’s<br />

important to remember that although tropical species<br />

abound in certain localities in August and September,<br />

the vast majority of fishes are local species that require<br />

cooler water, and many of them have strict size and number<br />

restrictions. If you have a cooler full of<br />

baby flounders, Black Seabass (Centropristis<br />

striata), and Tautog (Tautoga onitis), you<br />

are not only being irresponsible, but you<br />

may be facing thousands of dollars in fines.<br />

2. Be gentle. Don’t let the frustrations<br />

of the hunt turn you into a ruthless killer.<br />

When you have a seine net filled with<br />

seaweed, silversides, anchovies, and a few<br />

tropicals, it may seem as if the easiest way<br />

to locate the gems is to pull the entire net<br />

out of the water so you can pick carefully<br />

and methodically through the haul. However,<br />

this will result in the certain death of<br />

thousands of individuals of non-target species,<br />

and this technique is about as sustainable<br />

as fishing with dynamite or cyanide. If<br />

you are in an area with a lot of unattached<br />

seaweed or massive schools of bait fish, try<br />

somewhere else or think about snorkeling<br />

with a small hand net, but if you are determined<br />

to seine and you are unwilling to find a better<br />

spot, try shorter hauls and leave the fish-laden center of<br />

the net in the water while you search for your quarry.<br />

You will be surprised at how easy it is to spot the tropicals<br />

swimming among the native species in the shallow<br />

water. It is also much better for the health of all fishes<br />

involved if you don’t allow them to lie in the net out of<br />

water. A sandy net is a very effective device for removing<br />

the protective slime coat and skin from a fish, and pretty<br />

much guarantees that any fish lucky enough to survive<br />

the initial physical stress will be dealing with secondary<br />

infections for weeks.<br />

3. Know the law. All coastal states, counties, and towns<br />

have laws regulating the use of marine resources, and<br />

many states, including New York, require a saltwater<br />

fishing license to take any marine life out of the water.<br />

The use of certain types of gear, such as seine nets, may<br />

also be restricted. It can be quite embarrassing to have<br />

your day of sustainable fish collecting end in fines for<br />

illegal fishing.<br />

4. Don’t take more fish than you are prepared to house.<br />

Keep in mind that many of the species that we find here<br />

are not compatible. Many others should not be considered<br />

safe for a reef tank. Angels and butterflyfishes are<br />

90 CORAL


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91


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Patent-pending design by Julian Sprung.<br />

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www.twolittlefishies.com<br />

coral eaters, while groupers, snappers, and bigeyes are large-mouthed predators.<br />

The majority of species we see here will also outgrow any home aquarium.<br />

The carangids are pelagic and many of them require tank sizes in the<br />

thousands of gallons. The resemblance of the Blue-spotted Cornetfish (Fistularia<br />

commersonii) to its distant relatives, the pipefishes, makes it easy to<br />

forget that this species can reach a length of around 6 feet (2 meters).<br />

5. Keep an eye on the weather. The wave surge of a hurricane that is still 500<br />

miles (800 km) away can wreck the visibility for a week or more, and a blustery<br />

autumn day can make it nearly impossible to manage a seine net. It’s a<br />

sinking feeling to arrive at the Ponquogue bridge after a two-hour drive only<br />

to have to abandon your dive plan.<br />

6. Pay attention to the tides. The narrow inlets connecting the large south<br />

shore bays with the ocean make for very strong and dangerous tidal currents.<br />

Timing your dive with slack tide is critical in this area.<br />

7. Be courteous to fishermen and landowners. If someone is fishing where<br />

you had planned to jump into the water, find another spot. If they are blocking<br />

your only access to the water, politely ask them if you can sneak by and<br />

explain what you’re doing. It might even lead to an interesting conversation.<br />

On the other hand, if you decide to boldly help yourself to your right to go<br />

wherever you want, you risk making the day a little less pleasant for everyone.<br />

Access to great collecting sites often involves walking through the backyards<br />

of people who own waterfront property. Here again you can exercise your<br />

right to trample all over the intertidal zone without having to answer to<br />

anyone (because they can’t own below the high-tide line), or you can be<br />

respectful, quiet, and friendly, taking care not to leave a pile of seaweed and<br />

dead silversides all over the beach.<br />

Another point worth considering is that at least a few of the tropical<br />

species may not actually be doomed. There is evidence that some of the carangids<br />

are simply using New York waters as a nursery, then making a southward<br />

migration in the fall. Appearances of adult burrfish in the Great South<br />

Bay in the spring, and bigeyes in the depths of the Hudson Canyon, call into<br />

question whether we should be considering some of these fishes tropical at<br />

all. Furthermore, it has been hypothesized that even the truly stranded tropicals<br />

like butterflyfishes, groupers, and damselfishes may play an important<br />

role in our local ecology. As the water cools and they begin to succumb, they<br />

become easy prey for local and migratory species that need to bulk up in<br />

preparation for winter dormancy or migration.<br />

Whatever their ecological niche, these temporary residents of the waters<br />

of New York contribute to a diversity of marine life that few people realize is<br />

just beneath the surface. As I look out at the icy, windswept bay today, with<br />

harbor seals bobbing in the waves and flocks of mergansers aiming into the<br />

winter wind, it’s hard to imagine that in just a few months I’ll be out there<br />

snorkeling, in search of these gems of New York for my own tanks.<br />

Todd Gardner is a biologist and a staff member at the Long Island Aquarium<br />

and Exhibition Center (formerly Atlantis Marine<br />

World) in Riverhead, NY. He lives on Long<br />

Island.<br />

More on the Internet at www.youtube.com/watch?v<br />

=Vc6m7pZ3BTc<br />

A “nugget of gold” found off<br />

Long Island: a juvenile Atlantic<br />

Blue Tang (Acanthurus coeruleus).<br />

92 CORAL


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93


CUBA’S<br />

UNDERWATER<br />

PARADISE:<br />

Los Jardines de la Reina<br />

article and images by Werner Fiedler<br />

Only two species of the<br />

genus Acropora occur in the<br />

Caribbean, one of them being<br />

the Elkhorn Coral (Acropora<br />

palmata).<br />

94 CORAL


Far off the south coast of Cuba lies a chain of tiny, uninhabited islands.<br />

Columbus christened this remote archipelago Los Jardines de la Reina—the<br />

Gardens of the Queen. Nowadays, diving there is like making a journey into<br />

the past—the splendid reefs in this, perhaps the most unspoiled coral landscape<br />

in the Caribbean, are still unspoiled and richly populated.<br />

Part 1: Picturebook Caribbean Reefs<br />

The Caribbean Sea is bounded to the north and east by the island chains of the Greater and Lesser<br />

Antilles. Cuba, with a length of some 750 miles (1,200 km), acts as a significant land barrier to the<br />

Atlantic Ocean. This, the largest island in the Antilles, possesses a particular wealth of coral reefs.<br />

A considerable contribution to this wealth is made by the fringing reefs of the approximately 1,600<br />

additional islands scattered around the mainland. There are 660 such specks of land just in the<br />

archipelago known as Los Jardines de<br />

la Reina—the Gardens of the Queen.<br />

If you want to look up this area<br />

on a map, you will find it a good way<br />

off the south coast, roughly in the<br />

middle of Cuba, east of the historic<br />

town of Trinidad with its colonial architecture,<br />

where the Golfo de Ana<br />

Maria significantly shapes the outline<br />

of the mainland. This inlet of<br />

the sea, at whose head lies the little<br />

harbor of the fishing village of Júcaro,<br />

resembles a relatively shallow lagoon.<br />

Far out to sea, along the edge of the<br />

shelf, it is bounded by a chain of<br />

low-lying coral islands, the Jardines<br />

de la Reina. This unique archipelago<br />

was originally named by Christopher<br />

Columbus, who intended thereby to<br />

honor Queen Isabella I of Castile,<br />

who significantly supported his voyages<br />

of discovery.<br />

If the cayos—the little offshore<br />

islands—are viewed from the open<br />

Caribbean, it is easy to see that they<br />

are the flat tops of fossil reefs that<br />

protrude only slightly above sea level.<br />

Their much-furrowed limestone faces<br />

have been and are still being shaped<br />

by the force of the waves. Beaches of<br />

white coral sand have formed in sheltered<br />

areas. By contrast the inner, lagoon<br />

side is characterized by extensive<br />

The sheer faces of the<br />

exposed fringing reefs<br />

are covered in sponges of<br />

many different types.<br />

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stands of mangroves, which alternate between practically<br />

impenetrable and more open areas. A typical feature of<br />

the entire area is a confusing labyrinth of natural channels<br />

through which water streams in the rhythm of the<br />

tides. The predominantly bushy vegetation on the long,<br />

narrow islands can best be described as a collection of<br />

different coastal plants.<br />

FIRST IMPRESSIONS<br />

Our speedboat roars out across the gulf for about 50<br />

miles (80 km) from Júcaro to reach the broad passage between<br />

the two cayos of Caballones and Anclitas. Here the<br />

hotel ship La Tortuga, the only permanent place to stay<br />

in the Jardines de la Reina, lies at anchor in a sheltered<br />

bay surrounded by mangrove thickets. The 93-mile-long<br />

(150-km) archipelago is uninhabited, has been protected<br />

since 1997, and now has the status of a national park.<br />

There is no commercial fishing here; only fly-fishing by<br />

licensed anglers is permitted. No more than 400 divers<br />

per year are allowed to explore this unspoiled underwater<br />

world, and each is limited to one week of fishing.<br />

There are attractive dive sites all along the side facing<br />

the Caribbean. The bottom profile is significantly determined<br />

by the Yucatan Basin. On nautical charts the underwater<br />

contour lines lie close together, showing how<br />

steeply the bottom drops away. The 1.2-mile (2,000-m)<br />

isobath lies not far from the cayos. The exposed position<br />

of the Jardines de la Reina has had a considerable influence<br />

on the development of the imposing fringing reefs<br />

and their rich fauna, which includes numerous openwater<br />

species as well.<br />

Before diving, we wanted to look around in the shallows<br />

of the extensive reef top. We quickly arrived at one<br />

of the sites suitable for snorkeling. Here the rays of the<br />

sun, broken up by the waves, danced brightly through<br />

the clear water and created an ever-changing pattern on<br />

the limestone plateau, which lay barely more than 16<br />

This young<br />

colony of Knobby<br />

Cactus Coral<br />

(Mycetophyllia<br />

aliciae) exhibits<br />

the characteristic<br />

marginal<br />

swelling; only<br />

larger specimens<br />

form more or less<br />

radially oriented<br />

ridges.<br />

feet (5 m) below us and was rather bare, swept clean by<br />

the sometimes rough seas. Above this solid base towered<br />

Elkhorn Corals (Acropora palmata) of such monumental<br />

stature that the endless play of sunlight looked like<br />

flickering stage lighting amid surreal scenery. Because<br />

this coral species requires constant water movement and<br />

hence grows only in the shallows, its spreading branches<br />

are sometimes snapped off during violent storms. We<br />

saw the results of this in another, rather battered site,<br />

where only short stumps of huge branches remained after<br />

a tornado had swept through.<br />

The sometimes immense power of the sea is also the<br />

reason we found mainly stony corals (for example Faviidae,<br />

Poritidae) of compact growth. Shoals of grunts (for<br />

example the French Grunt, Haemulon flavolineatum) and<br />

snappers (for example the Schoolmaster Snapper, Lutjanus<br />

apodus) inhabited the panorama, even though the<br />

fishes liked to retire among or beneath<br />

the corals. The Great Barracuda (Sphyraena<br />

barracuda) is one of the top dogs<br />

in this terrain. These solitary predators<br />

command a lot of respect; they<br />

often followed us and fixed us with<br />

glassy stares. But if we tried to get close<br />

enough to photograph them, they immediately<br />

beat a retreat.<br />

BIZARRE UNDERWATER<br />

LANDSCAPES<br />

The Caribbean harbors the greatest<br />

wealth of species of reef-building corals<br />

in the Atlantic Ocean. But the edifices<br />

The coloration of the Lettuce Sea Slug<br />

(Elysia crispata), which grows up to 2.25<br />

inches (6 cm) long, varies considerably.<br />

96 CORAL


we found here were very different from the burgeoning<br />

reefs of the Indo-Pacific. One immediately noticeable difference<br />

was the abundance of gorgonians (above all Plexauridae<br />

and Gorgoniidae), masses of which occupied the<br />

limestone mountains built by stony corals. They formed<br />

elastic, bushy, and fan-shaped structures that swung to<br />

and fro in the swell. Like the numerous branching stony<br />

corals found elsewhere (in particular those of the genus<br />

Acropora, which is poorly represented in the Atlantic),<br />

these gorgonians are important to the fish fauna because<br />

The long anal-fin spine is a striking feature of the Longjaw<br />

Squirrelfish (Holocentrus marianus).<br />

they provide cover. The second peculiarity of the Caribbean<br />

reefs is their abundant sponge fauna, which made<br />

the underwater landscape appear more colorful. In the<br />

areas flooded with sunlight there was also an abundance<br />

of various algae, cloaking the limestone so it looked like<br />

a tufted carpet.<br />

The fringing reefs in exposed positions often dropped<br />

off precipitously into apparently bottomless depths, their<br />

foundations somewhere in the eternal dark blue. The<br />

nearly vertical walls were traversed by impressive ravines.<br />

In one spot we dived through a vertical, chimney-like<br />

cave whose exit was way below the usual 98-foot (30-m)<br />

maximum on the depth indicator of the computer. But<br />

the sheer walls of most of these reefs ended at around<br />

82 feet (25 m), where they rose from broad expanses of<br />

sand, from which low-lying banks of coral and smaller<br />

patches also sprouted here and there. Everything appeared<br />

undisturbed and intact, as if the worldwide coral<br />

die-off was just a bad dream.<br />

Nevertheless, even in this fabulous underwater paradise<br />

we were suddenly brought back to reality by the sight<br />

of the attractively colored Red Lionfish, with its feathery<br />

fin-rays with poisoned tips. For some years this species<br />

(Pterois volitans), actually a denizen of the Indo-Pacific,<br />

has been spreading rapidly in the Caribbean and has<br />

now reached the Gardens of the Queen. We found stately<br />

specimens of this unwelcome immigrant everywhere.<br />

They find abundant prey here, but have no natural enemies<br />

themselves.<br />

The indigenous fish fauna here is amazing, with<br />

some 500 species resident in the Caribbean. The Queen<br />

Angelfish (Holacanthus ciliaris) is undoubtedly one of<br />

the most beautiful. The numerous wrasses, such as the<br />

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97


super-agile Bluehead (Thalassoma bifasciatum) and the<br />

Creole Wrasse (Clepticus parrae), provide flashes of color<br />

on the reefs. The Hogfish (Lachnolaimus maximus) is notable<br />

due to its size. It is hard to believe that the bright<br />

yellow juvenile form of the Blue Tang (Acanthurus coeruleus)<br />

will eventually change into the equally attractive<br />

adult. On the other hand, the yellow of the Trumpetfish<br />

(Aulostomus maculatus) was purely temporary; normally<br />

the species is reddish brown.<br />

Ungainly swimmers such as the Smooth Trunkfish<br />

(Lactophrys triqueter) and the Bridled Burrfish (Chilomycterus<br />

antennatus) prefer to stay under cover. Circumspection<br />

is also beneficial to particularly small fishes, such<br />

as the Peppermint Goby (Coryphopterus lipernes), the<br />

Cleaner Goby (Gobiosoma genie), the Roughhead Blenny<br />

(Acanthemblemaria aspera), and the Redlip Blenny (Ophioblennius<br />

atlanticus). Naturally there are also numerous<br />

invertebrates—shrimps, crabs and lobsters, nudibranchs,<br />

and sea urchins, to mention just a few groups.<br />

HARD TO GET USED TO<br />

But the real attractions of the Jardines de la Reina are<br />

the big fishes whose size far exceeds the capacity of a domestic<br />

aquarium: the massive groupers and streamlined<br />

sharks that we encountered at close quarters, with no<br />

protective pane of glass. There was a simple reason why<br />

these fishes, which normally keep their distance, had lost<br />

their timidity: for many years these huge fishes have been<br />

lured to the area by regular feeding by visitors. This is disappointing<br />

in the sense that the fishes no longer exhibit<br />

their natural behaviors, but on the other hand, divers<br />

have the rare opportunity to see these impressive hunters<br />

up close on almost every dive.<br />

When we arrived at a dive site after a quick tour<br />

through the mangrove zone in the boat, the sharks would<br />

usually already be there. Most of the “powerpacks” doing<br />

their rounds near the surface were larger than we were.<br />

This might give a novice pause before he falls backward<br />

from the safety of the gunwale into the company of the<br />

predators, but these sharks prefer to eat fish—people<br />

aren’t on their list of prey. And their finely tuned senses<br />

allow them to distinguish one from the other very well. In<br />

fact, our noisy arrival is more likely to scare them away,<br />

even though they are presumably used to us by now.<br />

Regardless of which dive site we visited, there were<br />

Silky Sharks (Carcharhinus falciformes), Caribbean Reef<br />

Sharks (Carcharhinus perezi), or both in attendance. As<br />

we followed the face of the reef downward, the unusual<br />

assembly “upstairs” gradually broke up and moved away,<br />

and soon the fishes were ranging further afield in deeper<br />

regions. They kept on disappearing from our field of<br />

view, only to return again before long.<br />

We often encountered Black Groupers (Mycteroperca<br />

bonaci), whose flight distance is less than that required<br />

to fill the viewfinder of the camera. Sometimes these respectably<br />

sized fishes had a pattern of red-brown spots,<br />

but the black edge of the caudal fin was a reliable diagnostic<br />

character. The less common Nassau Grouper<br />

(Epinephelus striatus), with its unmistakable pattern of<br />

stripes, was less bulky in appearance. But the most impressive<br />

member of this group was the Goliath Grouper<br />

(Epinephelus itajara). The longest of them was almost<br />

The invasive Red or Volitans Lionfish (Pterois<br />

volitans) is as common in some parts of the<br />

Caribbean as it is in its natural range.<br />

98 CORAL


The Green Finger Sponge (Lotrochota birotulata)<br />

usually forms branched bushes; this one is<br />

growing on a Common Sea Fan (Gorgonia<br />

ventalina).<br />

as long as I am, but undoubtedly four times as heavy.<br />

It stood up to the 6.5-foot (2-m) Reef Sharks, which<br />

quickly got out of the way of the grouper as soon as it<br />

launched an attack. When I tried to position myself for<br />

an extra-close portrait, it occurred to me that the underwater<br />

camera would have fit into the grouper’s mouth<br />

with room to spare, but it simply rolled its eyes at me.<br />

AN EXCITING FINALE<br />

Given all this excitement, I had been paying less attention<br />

to other creatures in the area. On the sandy bottom<br />

these included the Southern Stingray (Dasyatis americana),<br />

the Queen Conch (Strombus gigas), almost extinct<br />

elsewhere, and various species of sea cucumbers (Astichopus<br />

multifidus, among others.). The sociable Tarpon<br />

(Megalops atlanticus) had retired into the clefts of the<br />

reef. Their large, striking, silvery-metallic scales require<br />

careful use of the flash, to avoid the reflection resulting<br />

in unusable photos. Similar problems<br />

can occur with the Horse-eye Jack (Caranx<br />

latus), shoals of which crossed our path on<br />

our way back up.<br />

Meanwhile, the sharks had reassembled<br />

around the waiting boat, so we were happy<br />

to extend the usual safety stop for as long<br />

as the remaining compressed air allowed.<br />

To avoid getting divers in my photos, I remained<br />

at a distance from the group and<br />

recorded the patrolling sharks in a variety of<br />

shots. They usually swam past at a distance<br />

of around 6 or 7 feet (2 m). Sometimes they<br />

approached head-on, but then turned aside<br />

in plenty of time. They appeared to be using<br />

all their senses to determine what these bubbling<br />

creatures who had invaded their territory<br />

might be. “Are they dangerous?” “Are<br />

they competitors?” Perhaps these were the<br />

questions that the sharks were asking and<br />

trying to answer through their instinctive<br />

examination of the aliens.<br />

A hefty bump and the simultaneous gentler<br />

blow of a tail awoke me violently from<br />

such thoughts. While I was admiring the<br />

powerful elegance of the sharks and waiting<br />

for worthwhile photo opportunities, a young<br />

Caribbean Reef Shark had approached unnoticed<br />

from behind and was trying to solve<br />

the puzzle in its own loutish way. I decided<br />

to keep the unfriendly youngster in sight, but<br />

this plan was doomed to failure, since 15–20<br />

conspecifics were assembled around us. The<br />

ruffian soon abandoned the anonymity of the group to<br />

launch a new, unexpected attack. At first I wasn’t aware<br />

that it was the same inquisitive fellow that I had been<br />

watching through the camera’s viewfinder, because he<br />

was on a course that would take him close to me as he patrolled.<br />

I first realized when he suddenly changed course<br />

and closed the remaining 6 feet (2 m) between us. There<br />

was no time to readjust the camera, but I managed to<br />

take two photos before the shark grabbed my camera.<br />

Had he mistaken its silvery housing for a favorite fish, or<br />

was he just curious? When I pushed him away, he let the<br />

camera go without leaving behind any noticeable traces<br />

of his razor-sharp teeth. This indicated a gentle bite with<br />

the gums, perhaps to enable the shark to investigate this<br />

object of special interest more closely and check out its<br />

taste. Because Caribbean Reef Sharks can be persistently<br />

troublesome, after this exciting experience I was more<br />

careful to watch my back.<br />

CORAL<br />

99


Successful breeding of<br />

the Yellowbanded Pipefish<br />

(Doryrhamphus pessuliferus)<br />

by Inken Krause<br />

While seahorses<br />

have long been bred<br />

by hobbyists and<br />

commercial breeders,<br />

a success story about<br />

rearing pipefishes is<br />

always a cause for<br />

celebration.<br />

When German reefkeeper Michael Mrutzek succeeded in breeding<br />

the Yellowbanded Pipefish several years ago, he became a pioneer<br />

of pipefish breeding. Unfortunately, it appears that very few others<br />

have been able to repeat his success, and we are still a long way from the<br />

level of captive breeding that is now commonplace with clownfishes, for example.<br />

Reefkeeper Patrika Dirmeier has successfully reared young Bluestripe<br />

Pipefish (Doryrhamphus excisus) on several occasions (Deuss, 2010), and<br />

now shares with us her simple but extremely successful breeding attempts<br />

with the beautiful Yellowbanded Pipefish, Doryrhamphus pessuliferus. Although<br />

she continues to improve her methods, she has already told us what<br />

she believes to be the secrets of her success.<br />

CORAL: At present you have around 40 little Yellowbanded Pipefishes, aged<br />

from 1 to 13 weeks, swimming in your rearing tanks—a magnificent success!<br />

But—hand over heart—how many failed attempts did it take before the first<br />

larvae successfully underwent metamorphosis and grew on into juveniles?<br />

Patrika Dirmeier: I had my first real success after around three months.<br />

During that period I was transferring larvae every 10 days on average.<br />

P. DIRMEIER<br />

100 CORAL


CORAL: What do your rearing tanks look like, and<br />

what do the larvae get to eat?<br />

PD: The larvae spend their first six to eight<br />

weeks in a 16- to 21-gallon (60–80 L) aquarium<br />

equipped with an airstone, some Siporax biofilter<br />

media, and live Nannochloropsis phytoplankton.<br />

Thereafter the little pipefishes are transferred to<br />

an 80-gallon (300-L) aquarium equipped with a<br />

protein skimmer, Siporax, and a UV clarifier. The<br />

larvae are fed a mixture of zooplankton (various<br />

copepods and Brachionus that she simply harvests<br />

from her established reef tanks). From the<br />

age of two weeks they are also fed Artemia nauplii<br />

(small types).<br />

Larva of<br />

Doryrhamphus<br />

pessuliferus on its<br />

first day of life.<br />

CORAL: How high is the survival rate at present?<br />

PD: When I first bred them successfully the survival<br />

rate was only 20 percent, but now I am<br />

achieving an estimated 50 percent. I am getting<br />

50 to 80 larvae per spawning. The secret is frequent<br />

water changes, as they are very sensitive to<br />

foul water.<br />

Developing larva at seven days.<br />

CORAL: When does the critical phase in the life of<br />

a young Orangebanded Pipefish come to an end?<br />

PD: That is still very difficult to say, but in my<br />

experience, transferring the larvae from the parents’<br />

tank to the rearing aquarium is a very criti-<br />

Metamorphosing15-day-old pipefish.<br />

TOP: M. SPITALER; OTHERS: P. DIRMEIER<br />

Juvenile at 21 days.<br />

CORAL 101


PD: I can’t resist answering: “My electricity bill!” But, all<br />

joking aside, I’ve had hardly any really insurmountable<br />

problems. The only difficulty has been one familiar to<br />

every breeder in the marine field: it is very difficult to<br />

make sure an adequate supply of phytoplankton, zooplankton,<br />

or Artemia nauplii is<br />

constantly available.<br />

Yellowbanded Pipefish<br />

juveniles at 30 days.<br />

CORAL: Can you foresee a time<br />

when other aquarists, or even<br />

the aquaculture industry, will<br />

devote themselves to Doryrhamphus<br />

pessuliferus so that it is<br />

no longer necessary to collect<br />

them from the wild?<br />

cal point. The first five to seven days of life are likewise<br />

tricky. This is the period during which the most larvae<br />

die. In my view they are only “out of the woods” when<br />

they are feeding on frozen Mysis shrimp. (Patrika feeds<br />

her broodstock exclusively on frozen, high-quality Mysis,<br />

using a brand with mostly intact, unbroken shrimp.)<br />

CORAL: What are the main problems you have had to contend<br />

with?<br />

PD: Naturally I wish every success<br />

to any aquarist who decides<br />

to try his or her hand at<br />

breeding this attractive pipefish!<br />

That is precisely the reason<br />

why I am happy to share<br />

my own experiences. But I<br />

don’t believe we will ever be able to go so far as to completely<br />

dispense with wild-caught Yellowbanded Pipefishes.<br />

If we look at the commercial breeding of clownfishes,<br />

where the concept of dispensing with wild-caught stocks<br />

has failed to become a reality, then I don’t think that we<br />

will be able to achieve that with pipefishes any time soon.<br />

Plus, pipefishes produce much smaller clutches compared<br />

to clownfishes, which makes breeding them more<br />

expensive and less economically viable.<br />

REFERENCES<br />

Deuss, T. 2011. Breeding the Bluestripe Pipefish (Doryrhamphus<br />

excisus). CORAL 8 (3): May/June 2011.<br />

Michael, S.W. 2001. Reef Fishes, Volume One, Family Sygnathidae,<br />

pgs 427–39. Microcosm/TFH, Neptune, New Jersey.<br />

Young pipefish at 53 days.<br />

P. DIRMEIER<br />

102 CORAL


aquarium portrait | INKEN KRAUSE<br />

An energy-saving<br />

Swiss aquarium<br />

created by Ruedi Furter and Brigitte Utz<br />

ALL: I. KRAUSE<br />

I<br />

Above: The blending of LED lighting and<br />

natural sunlight during the day is very<br />

attractive. Right: owners Brigitte and Ruedi<br />

enjoy their 925-gallon (3,500-L) reef.<br />

n documenting the construction of this aquarium<br />

on our website, we explained that it all began with<br />

a little Pacific Blue Tang in a 105-gallon (400-L)<br />

aquarium. Two years later we had graduated to a<br />

265-gallon (1,000-L) aquarium. But we soon outgrew<br />

that as well, and we now enjoy the 925-gallon<br />

(3,500-L) aquarium portrayed here.<br />

Due to a number of adaptations we have made<br />

over time, we can now happily describe our tank as an<br />

energy-saving system. Initially, in the spring of 2007,<br />

it was illuminated by two 1,000-watt units and run by<br />

high-output pumps from Troptronic—four PW16s with<br />

an output of 4,220 gallons (16,000 L) per hour for current<br />

and one PW8 at around 2,110 gallons (8,000 L) per<br />

hour as a return pump. Together with other equipment,<br />

such as protein skimmers and the calcium reactor still<br />

in use at that time, the total peak power consumption<br />

added up to around 3,000 watts—not excessive for an<br />

aquarium of this size.<br />

The first noteworthy change we made, intended to<br />

make our 925-gallon (3,500-L) reef aquarium more<br />

economical, involved the pumps. Current is now created<br />

by four Abyzz A400s (with 65 percent output during<br />

“flood” and 5 percent at “ebb”), and the return pump is<br />

an Abyzz A200 run at 100 percent output. These powerful<br />

pumps have a combined power consumption of just<br />

570 watts!<br />

We also recently converted to LED lighting technology.<br />

Ten 75-watt modules (Sol Blue from Aqua Illumination)<br />

provide enough light for the aquarium, even when<br />

it is operating at 85 percent output. This means that our<br />

living-room reef tank can be operated with a total peak<br />

power consumption of less than 1,500 watts.<br />

THE CONCEPT<br />

Because our aquarium was installed in the middle of our<br />

newly built living room and can be viewed from all four<br />

sides, we banished all the equipment to the cellar—there<br />

CORAL<br />

105


Thanks to the huge glass doors,<br />

the aquarium can even be enjoyed<br />

from the terrace in summer.<br />

could be no visible equipment to spoil the view. This was<br />

possible only because we had added a suitable extension<br />

to our house, increasing the size of both the living room<br />

and the cellar. The cellar beneath the existing 265-gallon<br />

(1,000-L) aquarium was already occupied by our breeding<br />

setup, and besides, an even larger tank would never<br />

have fit into our old living room.<br />

We wanted to create the illusion that the aquarium<br />

was floating in space, so an enclosed cabinet the full size<br />

of the aquarium base was out of the question. Our architect<br />

suggested a central footer running longitudinally<br />

and containing an integrated shaft for equipment. This<br />

was constructed from reinforced concrete and integrated<br />

with the floor. Our requirement was that the structure<br />

be solid enough not only to carry the weight of the tank<br />

safely, but also to withstand the earth tremors that are<br />

common in our area of north-central Switzerland.<br />

A steel-tube frame was firmly attached to the central<br />

footer in several places. The aquarium was constructed<br />

in place on a .8-inch (21-mm) plywood panel placed on<br />

top of this frame. Ralf Geis and the team from Aquarienbau<br />

Geis used laminated 2 x 10 mm Optiwhite glass<br />

for all four sides of the tank. The bottom glass is made<br />

of .75 inch (19 mm) float glass and is in four parts. All<br />

joints are reinforced with internal glass strips. The superimposed<br />

frame of reinforced, powder-coated aluminum<br />

provides additional stability and prevents any curvature<br />

of the glass edges that might damage the layers of glass.<br />

The two-part central shaft contains a smaller outflow<br />

shaft with a main outflow and 1.9-inch emergency overflow<br />

(50 mm diameter) as well as the return pipe (1.25<br />

inch [32 mm] diameter). The larger section houses the<br />

four inlet tubes for the current pumps as well as their<br />

return pipes.<br />

THE OVERHEAD COMPARTMENT<br />

The compartment above the aquarium, which extends<br />

right up to the ceiling, has to perform several functions<br />

simultaneously: no moisture must be allowed to escape<br />

and turn the living room into a cavern full of stalactites,<br />

and there should be no scattered light to spoil the view of<br />

the aquarium. Our goal was to have the greatest possible<br />

flexibility in the choice and siting of lighting equipment,<br />

without having to worry about how it looked. And most<br />

important of all, we didn’t want to lose fishes through<br />

jumping ever again!<br />

VENTILATION<br />

The overhead compartment is connected via 3.5-inch<br />

(90 mm) diameter PVC pipes (air inlet and outlet) to<br />

106 CORAL


an air-handling unit located in the cellar, which also<br />

serves the breeding and equipment areas and our shop<br />

(Swiss-Aquaristik GmbH). This unit is fitted with a heat<br />

exchanger with bypass control and a simple dehumidifier<br />

control for use in winter. An air heater is built in but not<br />

connected; so far, the heat loss from the aquariums has<br />

been sufficient to heat all the areas involved. Ventilation<br />

of the overhead compartment is regulated by the temperature<br />

of the aquarium water and the humidity<br />

in the compartment itself. A minimal<br />

level of ventilation is thus guaranteed<br />

around the clock, and water condensing on<br />

windowpanes is a thing of the past.<br />

<br />

<br />

so as to avoid blowing sand away.<br />

<br />

volume is usually sufficient.<br />

<br />

structure can be achieved by siting the outlets low. This<br />

counteracts the accumulation of detritus and thus the<br />

LIGHTING<br />

Under the principle that equipment should<br />

keep up with the times, the aquarium is<br />

now illuminated with what we hope will<br />

prove to be state-of-the art lighting. As<br />

mentioned earlier, we decided on LED<br />

lighting after some initial skepticism. Our<br />

first experiments, using a Chinese product<br />

on a tank for stony coral cuttings about a<br />

year earlier, had proved very disappointing.<br />

The light may have looked nice, but it didn’t<br />

suit the small-polyp stony corals at all!<br />

The Aqua Illumination Sol Blue modules<br />

we now use eventually won us over<br />

when we tried them on the same aquarium<br />

containing cuttings. The corals obviously<br />

liked the light, and we liked the system and<br />

all the options it offered (14 timers, individual<br />

light colors that can be controlled<br />

separately, weather simulation). For about<br />

four months now we have also been illuminating<br />

the large aquarium with 10 of these<br />

modules. Perhaps many people will think<br />

that such a large tank can’t be fully illuminated<br />

with 750 watts from LEDs—after all,<br />

we are talking about water 32 inches deep<br />

(80 cm). This argument has some merit,<br />

but we don’t believe it is necessary to illuminate<br />

every corner of an aquarium at<br />

maximum output. Selective use of lighting<br />

is not only more economical, but can also<br />

conjure up visually attractive lighting and<br />

shadow effects.<br />

CURRENT<br />

We must admit to being big fans of closedloop<br />

systems with external pumps for producing current.<br />

We would like to list some of the advantages here:<br />

<br />

many internal pumps.<br />

ously<br />

removed from among the décor for cleaning.<br />

Top: View through one of the end glasses of the aquarium:<br />

Pacific Blue Tangs (Paracanthurus hepatus) perform their<br />

evening display.<br />

Bottom: The reef around the outflow shaft, which is masked<br />

with Atoll-Riff-Deko faux rock. A wide variety of corals are<br />

thriving alongside the impressive Tridacna derasa.<br />

CORAL<br />

107


Top: View of the second long side of the room-divider tank<br />

with the lighting compartment open. Middle: View of the LED<br />

modules in the lighting compartment. Bottom: Everything is<br />

controlled from the “switching center” in the cellar.<br />

formation of potential areas of putrefaction.<br />

ulation)<br />

can be achieved with just two<br />

circulatory systems, which prevents the<br />

formation of sediment deposits.<br />

All of the plumbing for the current<br />

pumps is housed in the built-in central<br />

shaft. Water is taken in via slotted, openended<br />

vertical pipes that terminate above<br />

the water’s surface. This produces far less<br />

suction than an intake strainer does. The<br />

return pipes pass over the upper edge of the<br />

shaft inside the faux reef rock shaft cladding<br />

(from Atoll-Riff-Deko), then across<br />

the bottom away from the shaft, each<br />

terminating at one of the corners of the<br />

aquarium. The outlets are positioned as<br />

close to the bottom as possible and directed<br />

toward the surface at a 45-degree angle.<br />

It is important not to allow the stream of<br />

water to hit one of the side panes or the<br />

reef structure; this would considerably<br />

slow down water circulation and stir up<br />

the sand through uncontrolled turbulence.<br />

A lot of energy can be saved by clever<br />

reef construction and appropriate direction<br />

of the current. There are four of these<br />

circulatory systems installed in our aquarium,<br />

each powered by an Abyzz A400. The<br />

pumps are controlled by the Abyzz Control<br />

System (ACS), which is programmed so<br />

that two pumps are running at high output<br />

(65 percent) and two at low output<br />

(5 percent). This output ratio is switched<br />

about every six hours, ensuring that the<br />

water never comes to a standstill.<br />

At 65 percent output, taking frictional<br />

loss in the pipes into account, the pumps<br />

achieve a turnover of around 3,700 gallons<br />

(14,000 L) per hour, using a measured<br />

195 watts in the process. The pumps<br />

set at 5 percent output use about 15 watts<br />

and turn over about 530 gallons (2,000 L)<br />

per hour. The total turnover is thus around<br />

7,915 gallons (30,000 L) per hour, which<br />

is some 8.3 times the gross volume of the<br />

aquarium, and uses a total of around 410<br />

watts. If these figures are compared with<br />

those for modern internal current pumps,<br />

where (perhaps because of the sometimes<br />

very optimistic manufacturer output data)<br />

an up to 40-times nominal current output has to be recommended,<br />

then we come to the following conclusion:<br />

despite still being regarded as wasteful of energy, the<br />

closed-loop system actually comes out a lot better.<br />

108 CORAL


“Wow!”<br />

AMAZONAS<br />

Volume 1, Number 4<br />

July/August 2012<br />

Become a charter subscriber to AMAZONAS<br />

and don’t miss a single issue!<br />

Use the convenient reply card in this issue, or subscribe online:<br />

www.AmazonasMagazine.com<br />

CORAL 109


AQUARIUM Details<br />

SIZE, VOLUME, TIME IN OPERATION: 120 x 60 x 32 inches<br />

(300 x 150 x 80); around 925 gallons (3,500 L); Five<br />

years.<br />

ZOANTHARIA (STONY CORALS, ETC.): Acropora (various species),<br />

Caulastrea, Euphyllia, Duncanopsammia axifuga,<br />

Hydnophora, Montipora, Oulophyllia bennettae, Porites,<br />

Stylophora, and various encrusting anemones.<br />

OCTOCORALLIA (GORGONIANS AND SOFT CORALS): Muricea atlantica,<br />

M. pinnata, Plexaura flexuosa, Pterogorgia anceps,<br />

Sinularia.<br />

OTHER INVERTEBRATES: Several Actaeodes tomentosus, Alpheus<br />

soror, 4 Archaster angulatus, various hermit crabs,<br />

Heteractis crispa, 3 Maretia planulata, Tridacna derasa.<br />

FISHES: 2 Amblygobius phalaena (pair), 2 Amphiprion percula<br />

(pair), 5 Centropyge argi (harem with 1 male and<br />

4 females), 2 Gobiodon okinawae (pair), 2 Halichoeres<br />

chloropterus, 2 H. chrysus, 2 Hoplolatilus marcosi, Labroides<br />

dimidiatus, 2 Macropharyngodon bipartitus (pair),<br />

2 Neocirrhites armatus (pair), 2 Paracanthurus hepatus<br />

(pair), Paracheilinus mccoskeri, 4 Pholidichthys leucotaenia<br />

(2 pairs), 2 Platyglossus<br />

melanurus, 2 Pomacanthus<br />

navarchus, Pseudocheilinus<br />

hexataenia, 2 Pseudochromis<br />

bitaeniatus (pair), 2 Synchiropus<br />

splendidus (pair), Valenciennea<br />

muralis, 16 Zoramia<br />

leptacantha.<br />

DECOR: Plumbing screening<br />

from Atoll-Riff-Deko; around<br />

88 lb (40 kg) live rock,<br />

remainder of rockwork made<br />

of dry reef stone; deep layer<br />

of fine coral sand .<br />

LIGHTING: 10 Aqua Illumination Sol Blue 75-watt LED<br />

<br />

simulation of twilight via dimming; daily photoperiod<br />

11:30 A.M.–11:00 P.M.; some natural sunlight, especially<br />

in winter.<br />

WATER MOVEMENT: Closed-loop current with 4 Abyzz<br />

A400s creating ebb and flow (two pumps working simultaneously<br />

in each case); Abyzz A200 return pump.<br />

WATER MANAGEMENT: Knecht K300 protein skimmer,<br />

Aquacare Phosphat-Minus reactor, deep sand bed filter<br />

(DSB) with mangroves (all in the equipment tank in<br />

the cellar).<br />

WATER PARAMETERS:<br />

<br />

carbonate hardness 7°dKH, pH 8.1.<br />

MINERALS, MAINTENANCE: Addition of major and trace<br />

elements using the Balling method; trace elements from<br />

SwissAquaristik .<br />

OWNERS: Brigitte Utz and Ruedi Furter, Hölstein, Switzerland.<br />

It all began with a Pacific Blue Tang<br />

(Paracanthurus hepatus).<br />

FISH POPULATION<br />

Whenever possible, we attempt<br />

to maintain our fishes<br />

in pairs, harems, or shoals, to accord with their natural<br />

way of life. Thus our Pacific Blue Tang (Paracanthurus<br />

hepatus) was given a small partner while still in the<br />

265-gallon (1,000-L) aquarium. After withstanding initial,<br />

violent attacks, the little one asserted itself. After<br />

that the two of them got along well for three years, but<br />

when the “small” one attained the size of the older individual<br />

the friendship was over. The younger individual<br />

was literally “taken apart” on a daily basis. It was clear<br />

that they must be two males.<br />

At that time we had another Paracanthurus hepatus,<br />

about 6 inches (15 cm) larger and probably female, in<br />

one of our sales tanks. Our friend Helmut Strutz advised<br />

us to put this female with our male in the big tank. Because<br />

we had become convinced that such active fishes<br />

should be kept only in very large aquariums (and didn’t<br />

regard ours as such), we were strongly opposed to this<br />

suggestion at first. But in the hope that the “old one”<br />

would become more peaceful if he was given a real partner,<br />

we gave it a go. Within just a few minutes of putting<br />

them together it was quite clear that the two would form<br />

a pair. And now, a year later, we are sure that we did the<br />

right thing. Even so, the “space-consuming” spawning<br />

ritual that takes place every evening, and the way they<br />

sometimes swim up and down the aquarium sides, demonstrate<br />

that even 800 gallons (3,000 L) of water are not<br />

enough for such fishes!<br />

110 CORAL


The Reef Care Program<br />

Accelerated<br />

Coral Growth<br />

Enhanced<br />

Coral Colors<br />

Get rid of<br />

nuisance algae<br />

The Reef Foundation<br />

Program<br />

Provides biologically balanced levels of<br />

the foundation elements (Calcium,<br />

Carbonates and Magnesium) that<br />

ensures the optimal water conditions<br />

for a sustainable, vibrant coral reef.<br />

The Reef Coloration<br />

Program<br />

Provide the essential minor and trace<br />

elements that are part of the coral skeleton<br />

and soft tissue and are specifically<br />

important for SPS corals to display their<br />

natural pigments.<br />

The Algae Management<br />

Program<br />

Controlled nitrate & phosphate reduction<br />

that prevents nuisance algae and provides<br />

the fine control of Zooxanthellae<br />

populations that significantly affect coral<br />

growth rates and coloration.<br />

Get with the program!<br />

Over the past five years Red Sea’s<br />

team has been researching the<br />

physiological demands of corals in<br />

an artificial reef environment.<br />

The results of this research have<br />

been quite remarkable, culminating<br />

in the development of our<br />

groundbreaking Reef Care Program<br />

or RCP which empowers you to take<br />

control of your reef aquarium<br />

Understand the relationships among the many<br />

biological processes taking place in your<br />

aquarium and how they are all interrelated.<br />

Achieve the optimum values for all water<br />

parameters in different types of aquariums,<br />

especially your own particular aquarium<br />

Benefit from a concise, comprehensive and<br />

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Tel: 1-888-RED-SEA9<br />

redseainfo@redseafish.com<br />

www.redseafish.com<br />

CORAL 111


Pair of Flame Hawkfish, Neocirrhites armatus.<br />

As members of SAIA (Sustainable Aquarium Industry<br />

Association), we fight for increased awareness among<br />

aquarists that certain fishes (for example, all Acanthurus<br />

and Naso species, large Zebrasoma, all large angelfishes,<br />

and numerous specialized feeders) should not be kept in<br />

the normal domestic aquarium. The trade (apart from<br />

a very small number of dealers) appears to be unable<br />

to act responsibly and stop offering such fishes as part<br />

of the standard species selection. We are, however, convinced<br />

that it is possible to create an interesting, lively<br />

reef aquarium without including problem fishes. This is<br />

a subject that will undoubtedly be much discussed in the<br />

future. The SAIA Fish Selector, a source of information<br />

for responsible and conscientious aquarists, will shortly<br />

be available as a web tool and should help us aquarists<br />

select an appropriate fish population for any tank.<br />

ONE THE INTERNET<br />

SwissAquaristik: www.swissaquaristik.ch<br />

Sustainable Aquarium Industry Association (SAIA):<br />

www.saia-online.eu<br />

The rare Skunk Tilefish,<br />

Hoplolatilus marcosi.<br />

112 CORAL


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CORAL<br />

113


species spotlight | DANIEL KNOP<br />

It’s easy to<br />

keep the Ambon<br />

Scorpionfish<br />

(Pteroidichthys<br />

amboinensis)<br />

in pairs.<br />

The Ambon Scorpionfish<br />

Pteroidichthys amboinensis<br />

Phylum: Chordata (vertebrates)<br />

Class: Osteichthyes (bony fishes)<br />

Order: Scorpaeniformes (scorpionfishes<br />

and their allies)<br />

Family: Scorpaenidae (scorpionfishes)<br />

Genus/species: Pteroidichthys amboinensis<br />

OVERVIEW<br />

This bizarrely finned little scorpionfish demands a tank<br />

of its own, as it is virtually impossible to keep one with<br />

smaller fishes or crustaceans; it will generally regard these<br />

as food. These scorpionfishes belong in a species tank,<br />

where more than one can be kept. The<br />

aquarium dimensions should accord<br />

with the maximum size of the fish(es),<br />

usually 20 gallons (75 L) or larger.<br />

The dorsal-, ventral-, and anal-fin<br />

rays have poison glands in their mucous<br />

coating, but these scorpionfishes<br />

use their weapons only for defense,<br />

usually passively by erecting their fin<br />

rays, but their enormously effective<br />

camouflage greatly increases the risk of<br />

the incautious aquarist sustaining an<br />

injury. Be extremely careful when keeping<br />

these fishes.<br />

Ambon Scorpionfishes are sometimes<br />

difficult to persuade to feed,<br />

as they are initially reluctant to accept<br />

dead prey, such as pieces of fish<br />

ALL: D. KNOP<br />

Very small specimens of Pteroidichthys<br />

amboinensis are sometimes available in the<br />

trade, but they quickly grow to the maximum<br />

size of 4.75 inches (12 cm).<br />

CORAL<br />

115


Above: Ambon Scorpionfish (Pteroidichthys amboinensis) in Ellen<br />

Thaler’s aquarium.<br />

Left: The Weedy Scorpionfish (Rhinopias frondosa) can be<br />

smooth or, like this specimen, covered in masses of appendages.<br />

or shrimp. Once acclimated, however, they are easy to<br />

maintain. It is important to use dim illumination, as<br />

they are not happy under very bright light.<br />

DISTRIBUTION<br />

The natural distribution of the Ambon Scorpionfish is<br />

in the western Indo-Pacific, from the Red Sea to Papua<br />

New Guinea and north to Japan; occasional specimens<br />

have also been found at the Ryukyu Islands, Sulawesi,<br />

Vietnam, Madras, and the eponymous island of Ambon.<br />

DESCRIPTION<br />

The Ambon Scorpionfish can attain a body length of 4.75<br />

inches (12 cm). Because their most important characteristic<br />

is their ability to vary their external appearance<br />

to match their surroundings, they are easily confused<br />

with other very similar species—especially those of the<br />

genus Rhinopias, in particular the Weedy Scorpionfish<br />

(Rhinopias frondosa), which, however, is twice as big at<br />

9.5 inches (24 cm) long. Both species exhibit the typi-<br />

116 CORAL


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CORAL 117


The Ambon Scorpionfish (Pteroidichthys<br />

amboinensis) is very similar to the Weedy<br />

Scorpionfish (Rhinopias frondosa) shown in<br />

the photos above and on page 116, bottom<br />

left. Both species protrude their mouths in the<br />

same way in order to enlarge the mouth cavity<br />

and suck in prey with a jerk. The two species<br />

are most easily distinguished by the difference<br />

in head shape.<br />

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cal head shape and have a huge mouth<br />

opening that permits them to suck in and<br />

swallow surprisingly large prey items. The<br />

body is usually irregularly spotted, and<br />

the numerous fringe-like appendages of<br />

skin break up its contours and allow the<br />

fish to merge into its surroundings, hiding<br />

it from its prey and its predators alike.<br />

HABITAT<br />

These predators are regularly found lurking,<br />

fully exposed, on the sandy bottom,<br />

on the hard substrate of the reef, or on<br />

corals. The large eyes keep the surrounding<br />

area under constant surveillance<br />

while the fish remains completely immobile,<br />

waiting for incautious prey—small<br />

fishes, crustaceans, or cephalopods—to<br />

come close enough for the scorpionfish<br />

to snap up and swallow them.<br />

REFERENCES<br />

Debelius, H. and R. Kuiter. 2006. World Atlas<br />

of Marine Fishes. Hollywood Import & Export/<br />

www.amazon.com<br />

Lieske, E. and R.F. Myers. 2000. Coral Reef<br />

Fishes. Princeton University Press, Princeton,<br />

New Jersey..<br />

Michael, S.W. 1998. Reef Fishes, Volume One.<br />

Microcosm/TFH, Neptune City, New Jersey.<br />

118 CORAL


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live, but when re-hydrated they are a microencapsulated source of colorenhancing<br />

beta carotene and astaxanthin pigments, vitamins, amino<br />

acids and essential fatty acids. Ideal food for filter-feeding invertebrates,<br />

such as soft corals, anemones, feather duster worms, clams, sponges,<br />

and sea cucumbers.<br />

PhytoPlan is also a great supplement to enrich the nutritional value of dry<br />

fish foods. Soak dried fish foods briefly in a mix of 1/4 teaspoon of<br />

PhytoPlan with two tablespoons of water. PhytoPlan is also a great food<br />

for raising live brine shrimp, or it can be used to enhance their nutritional<br />

value immediately prior to feeding them to fishes.<br />

• Source of vitamins, pigments, amino acids, & essential fatty acids.<br />

• For filter-feeding invertebrates.<br />

• For enhancing the nutritional value of fish foods.<br />

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seafans, anemones, cerianthids, zoanthids, hydrozoans, clams, and<br />

other filter-feeders. Also a food for fishes that feed on zooplankton.<br />

• Source of vitamins, pigments, amino acids, and essential fatty acids.<br />

• Particles sizes from less than 10 microns to more than 250 microns.<br />

• For filter-feeding invertebrates.<br />

• For zooplankton-eating fishes.<br />

• Low moisture means concentrated nutritional value.<br />

• Long Shelf life.<br />

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meet their metabolic needs, but also obtain some nutrition from dissolved<br />

or particulate organic matter (MarineSnow ® ), and phytoplankton.<br />

Feed them our plankton and watch them grow!<br />

120 CORAL


for novices in the marine aquarium hobby—DANIEL KNOP<br />

Marine substrates:<br />

worth their weight in gold<br />

For a marine aquarium hobbyist, a good substrate<br />

can be worth its weight in gold. Many<br />

organisms important for biological or biochemical<br />

processes in the reef aquarium live in the<br />

substrate, and although they work underground and<br />

are largely invisible to us, these little crustaceans and<br />

worms form the basis of the diet of many fishes, including<br />

the Mandarinfish (Synchiropus splendidus) and<br />

other dragonets, and without them these fish may become<br />

emaciated. Coral growth can also benefit enormously<br />

from a healthy, species-rich microfauna in the<br />

substrate, as the gametes and larvae of these creatures<br />

are released into the open water and serve as food for<br />

sessile actinians. In addition to these perks, these creatures<br />

effect the all-important bacterial nitrification and<br />

breakdown of nitrate in the aquarium.<br />

Above: Coral sand. Below: Foraminiferan sand<br />

CORAL SAND<br />

Not all substrate materials are the same. Until a few decades<br />

ago the choice was easy, as there was only one type<br />

of substrate available—dry coral sand. It came in a variety<br />

of grain sizes, from sugar-sized crumbs to chunks of<br />

coral a centimeter (.4 inch) across, either in bulk, supplied<br />

to the retailer in huge sacks to be portioned out as<br />

needed, or pre-packaged in bags. Nowadays, however, we<br />

have a choice of many different materials when setting<br />

up a reef tank.<br />

D. KNOP<br />

FORAMINIFERAN SAND<br />

Foraminiferan sand was fairly popular as substrate for<br />

marine aquariums around 20 years ago. This material<br />

consists of the shells of the unicellular organisms known<br />

as foraminiferans or forams. Many free-living foraminiferan<br />

species proliferate at a very high rate, and over time<br />

the countless shells that they produce coat the seabed as<br />

a coarse sediment. These shells are highly porous, permitting<br />

colonization by bacteria and making them the<br />

ideal substrate for a reef aquarium. However, in recent<br />

years export restrictions have increasingly limited the<br />

collection of foraminiferan sand in the wild, for exam-<br />

Below: Crushed limestone; the sharp edges can be clearly seen<br />

under magnification.<br />

CORAL 121


Left: Oolitic sand, mixed with a<br />

number of larger pieces of bivalve<br />

shell; the roundish ooids can be<br />

seen under magnification.<br />

Right: Live sand, which is<br />

available freshly imported or<br />

preserved in plastic bags or<br />

boxes. The basis is oolitic sand,<br />

and the rounded grains can be<br />

clearly seen when magnified.<br />

ple in Indonesia, so that trading in it has become more<br />

difficult and the product is less frequently seen on the<br />

market.<br />

LIMESTONE GRANULES<br />

By contrast, limestone granules for use as substrate<br />

are commonplace in the trade, and can also be used to<br />

fill calcium reactors. This material consists of crushed<br />

limestone deposits from fossil reefs, and is also used in<br />

horticulture—for scattering on paths in parks, for example.<br />

This substance was formerly part of living organisms—the<br />

endo- or exo-skeletons of corals, gastropods,<br />

bivalves, and sponges. The fact that it is readily available<br />

without export restrictions is a plus, but the downside<br />

is its unnatural appearance: all the grains are a similar<br />

size and have relatively sharp edges. Its precise mineral<br />

composition depends on the source; calciferous deposits<br />

originating from living organisms differ somewhat from<br />

one another, and the release of undesirable substances,<br />

such as phosphate or silicic acid, can also vary considerably.<br />

It is a good idea to test the material by putting a<br />

small sample of it in seawater and measuring the rise in<br />

phosphate or silicate using proprietary reagents.<br />

OOLITIC OR OOIDAL SAND<br />

Oolitic or ooidal sand is particularly popular in the U.S.,<br />

where it comes mainly from the state of Utah. Ooids are<br />

tiny balls of limestone that originated in the sea during<br />

past geological epochs. They form in supersaturated<br />

seawater when deposits of calcium carbonate form by<br />

crystallization on tiny particles of calcium carbonate in<br />

suspension (such as grains of coral sand or bivalve shell<br />

fragments). Layer after layer is deposited until the little<br />

ball of limestone has become heavy enough to sink permanently.<br />

In earlier geological periods the resulting layers<br />

of sediment solidified into rock (oolite or oolitic limestone),<br />

and its globular components are today offered for<br />

sale in some countries as oolitic sand for use as aquarium<br />

substrate. However, ooids can also be formed from other<br />

substances, such as iron- or phosphate-based minerals, so<br />

not every ooidal sand is suitable for the marine aquarium.<br />

LIVE SAND<br />

Live sand is also now available. Originally this was<br />

mainly supplied loose and stored in aquariums in the<br />

store, but now it usually comes damp and pre-packed in<br />

breathable plastic bags. Those who advocate its use point<br />

to the fact that the material is so heavily colonized with<br />

bacteria that the newly established reef aquarium gets<br />

a boost and can be biologically loaded (livestock can be<br />

added) considerably earlier. But critics maintain that the<br />

bacterial fauna required by an aquarium cannot be preserved<br />

for long periods in a bag, but has to develop in the<br />

aquarium and will vary according to the specific organic<br />

loading. The storing of live sand for weeks or months in<br />

an aquarium—in a layer 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) thick<br />

and without any livestock—inevitably leads to the demise<br />

of the bacteria or, at the very least, a significant reduction<br />

in the bacterial population.<br />

The fact is that substrate that has been stored and<br />

transported wet releases fewer minerals of the sort that<br />

encourage algae (in particular diatoms) in the aquarium.<br />

Why is that? On the one hand, there is less erosion<br />

(by friction) of the surfaces of the grains in the transportation<br />

liquid, and because the grains are already in<br />

liquid, the mineral elements capable of being released<br />

from their surface into a liquid medium will have been<br />

released already. On the other hand, dry granulate is<br />

produced by the crushing of fossil limestone. Its surfaces<br />

are produced by the milling process and not depleted of<br />

minerals by long contact with water. That is a good thing<br />

when we want to dissolve a small amount in the calcium<br />

reactor, but disadvantageous if we want to use a large<br />

amount as substrate.<br />

In the case of coral sand, the individual components<br />

have already spent a lot of time in contact with water,<br />

so their surfaces have already become mineral-depleted,<br />

but the friction that occurs between the individual<br />

grains when the material is handled, during transportation<br />

and manual washing prior to introduction into<br />

the aquarium, will rub away the surface layer and reveal<br />

deeper layers that are not yet depleted of minerals.<br />

In some cases this can lead to more silicic acid being<br />

released, for example, and ultimately to a more serious<br />

problem with diatoms during the maturation period. So<br />

the more we rub the grains together during washing, the<br />

more mineral substances are likely to be released.<br />

In a future issue we will talk about grain size, sand<br />

bed depth, and the correct method of cleaning aquarium<br />

substrates.<br />

LEFT: J. SPRUNG; RIGHT: D. KNOP<br />

122 CORAL


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CORAL 123


eginner’s invertebrates—INKEN KRAUSE<br />

Pederson’s<br />

Cleaner Shrimp<br />

(Periclimenes pedersoni)<br />

DISTRIBUTION: Caribbean<br />

DESCRIPTION: Periclimenes pedersoni is a dainty<br />

dwarf shrimp only 1.125–1.5 inches (3–4 cm) long,<br />

which can easily be distinguished from its congeners by<br />

the intense blue-violet markings on the claws, posterior<br />

body, and tail.<br />

ECOLOGY: In its natural habitat P. pedersoni lives in<br />

the shelter of anemones and is sometimes active as a<br />

cleaner shrimp.<br />

AQUARIUM MAINTENANCE: Because of its small<br />

size, Pederson’s Cleaner Shrimp is well suited to maintenance<br />

in the nano reef aquarium. It does best if a sea<br />

anemone is available as host. It is particularly nice if<br />

it can be kept together with one of its natural host sea<br />

anemones, such as the Caribbean Corkscrew Anemone<br />

(Bartholomea annulata) or the Giant Anemone (Condylactis<br />

gigantea). Periclimenes pedersoni is uncomplicated<br />

in its aquarium husbandry as long as sudden fluctuations<br />

in salinity and poor water quality are avoided.<br />

FEEDING: Pederson’s Cleaner Shrimp will take practically<br />

any food offered and can even be maintained on<br />

dry food.<br />

REFERENCES<br />

Michael, Scott W. 101 Best Marine Invertebrates. 2008.<br />

Microcosm/TFH, Neptune City, New Jersey.<br />

I. KRAUSE<br />

124 CORAL


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Technical terms that<br />

lexicon| appear in articles in this issue<br />

Caudal fin: the tail of a fish.<br />

Cnidarian: an invertebrate animal with stinging<br />

cells known as cnidocytes or nematocysts.<br />

Included are sea anemones, corals, and sea<br />

pens, as well as jellyfishes, box jellies, and<br />

hydrozoans.<br />

Cryptic: prone to hiding or being difficult to<br />

see.<br />

Dorsal fin: in fishes, one or more fins on the<br />

back, used primarily for stability and making<br />

sudden movements. A fish may have up to<br />

three dorsal fins. In the frogfishes, the anterior<br />

dorsal fin is modified to resemble a fishing<br />

rod and lure above the mouth.<br />

Gravid: pregnant; in fishes, full of eggs.<br />

Monophyletic: having shared characteristics<br />

and thought to have a common<br />

ancestor.<br />

<strong>Nano</strong>: small. In aquariums, usually under<br />

30 gallons (114 L); in fishes, usually under 2<br />

inches (5 cm).<br />

Octocorals: corals without stony skeletons,<br />

including soft corals, gorgonians, and sea<br />

pens. Also known as Alcyonarians. Distinguished<br />

by polyps with eight tentacles each.<br />

Pelagic: living in the open sea; pelagic<br />

larvae are immature marine organisms carried<br />

by tides and currents until they reach<br />

metamorphosis and settle out of the water<br />

column.<br />

Pelvic fins: the paired fins on the ventral<br />

surface of a fish, also known as ventral fins,<br />

that correspond to the hind legs of higher<br />

vertebrates. In gobies, these fins are often<br />

fused in a single sucker-like organ.<br />

Protandric or protandrous hermaphrodites:<br />

in zoology, animals having male organs<br />

when young and maturing into functional<br />

females.<br />

Protogynous hermaphrodites: in zoology,<br />

animals that have female organs but are<br />

capable of becoming functional males. Fish<br />

that live in harems are often protogynous<br />

hermaphrodites, with females capable of<br />

transforming if the harem’s male is lost.<br />

Scleractinian: a stony coral, having a skeleton<br />

of calcium carbonate (aragonite).<br />

Conservation breeding: maintaining a species<br />

that is threatened, endangered, or extinct<br />

in the wild in captive-bred populations carefully<br />

managed to preserve genetic viability<br />

and diversity.<br />

REEF LIFE page 136<br />

Cannibal Rock, Komodo National Park, Indonesia<br />

Antennarius pictus, Painted Frogfish pair<br />

Nighttime courtship: Small red male Painted Frogfish<br />

courting a gravid yellow female. His nudging actions<br />

finally stimulate her into a spawning ascent to release an<br />

egg raft, which he immediately fertilizes before it drifts<br />

toward the surface.<br />

— Larry P. Tackett, co-author, with Denise Nielsen Tackett,<br />

of REEF LIFE, Natural History and Behaviors of Marine<br />

Fishes and Invertebrates (Microcosm/TFH, 2002).<br />

126 CORAL


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CORAL 127


Sources<br />

Look for CORAL Magazine in these<br />

outstanding local aquarium shops.<br />

UNITED STATES<br />

Alabama<br />

Aquarium Fantasies<br />

340 Eastdale Cir<br />

Montgomery, AL<br />

334-396-5020<br />

Arkansas<br />

Northside Aquatics<br />

7610 Counts Massie Rd Ste A<br />

Maumelle, AR<br />

501-803-3434<br />

Worlds Underwater<br />

2105 Creekview Ste B<br />

Fayetteville, AR<br />

479-521-7258<br />

Arizona<br />

Aqua Touch<br />

12040 North 32nd St<br />

Phoenix, AZ<br />

602-765-9058<br />

Reef Culture<br />

406 S Price Rd<br />

Tempe, AZ<br />

480-446-3474<br />

California<br />

All Seas Marine, Inc<br />

(distribution only)<br />

1205 Knox St<br />

Torrance, CA<br />

310-532-7769<br />

Quality Marine<br />

(distribution only)<br />

5420 W 104th St<br />

Los Angeles, CA<br />

310-645-1107<br />

Amazing Aquariums &<br />

Reefs<br />

1842 N Tustin St<br />

Orange, CA<br />

714-928-5299<br />

Aquarium Concepts<br />

6920 Amador Plaza Rd<br />

Dublin, CA<br />

925-829-0583<br />

Capistrano Reef<br />

31896 Plaza Dr Unit E3<br />

San Juan Capistrano, CA<br />

949-248-7333<br />

Natural Life Aquarium<br />

131 Southwood Ctr<br />

South San Francisco, CA<br />

415-760-9395<br />

Sierra Saltwater Systems<br />

125 Lassen Rd<br />

Tahoe City, CA<br />

530-386-1768<br />

Tong’s Tropical Fish<br />

8976 Warner Ave<br />

Fountain Valley, CA<br />

714-842-2733<br />

Colorado<br />

Neptune’s Tropical Fish<br />

1970 E County Line Rd Unit A<br />

Highlands Ranch, CO<br />

303-798-1776<br />

Connecticut<br />

All Pets Club<br />

479 E Main St<br />

Branford, CT<br />

203-483-7387<br />

All Pets Club<br />

405 Queen St<br />

Southington, CT<br />

860-621-4664<br />

All Pets Club<br />

1167 N Colony Rd<br />

Wallingford, CT<br />

203-265-1899<br />

Aquatic Wildlife Co<br />

179D Deming St<br />

Manchester, CT<br />

860-648-1166<br />

House of Fins<br />

99 Bruce Park Ave<br />

Greenwich, CT<br />

203-661-8131<br />

Florida<br />

Barrier Reef<br />

1921 NW Boca Raton Blvd<br />

Boca Raton, FL<br />

561-368-1970<br />

Bio Reef LLC<br />

3653 Regent Blvd #101<br />

Jacksonville, FL<br />

904-674-0031<br />

Boardroom Aquatics<br />

12795 Kenwood Lane<br />

Fort Myers, FL<br />

239-275-8891<br />

Coral Corral<br />

13510 Prestige Place<br />

Tampa, FL<br />

813-855-3888<br />

Creatures Featured<br />

314 SW Pinckney St<br />

Madison, FL<br />

850-973-3488<br />

Orange Park Aquatics<br />

793 Blanding Blvd Ste A<br />

Orange Park, FL<br />

904-375-9462<br />

RV World<br />

2110 N Tamiami Trl<br />

Nokomis, FL<br />

941-375-1397<br />

Sea Life Aquarium<br />

& Service<br />

174 Semoran Commerce Pl<br />

Apopka, FL<br />

407-889-9887<br />

Georgia<br />

Aquarium Outfitters<br />

175 Old Epps Bridge Rd<br />

Athens, GA<br />

706-546-1337<br />

Hawaii<br />

Coral Fish Hawaii<br />

98–810 Moanalua Rd<br />

Aiea, HI<br />

808-488-8801<br />

Kalihi Pet Center<br />

1199 Dillingham Blvd Ste C-101<br />

Honolulu, HI<br />

808-841-5234<br />

Idaho<br />

Fish, Aquariums & Stuff<br />

6112 West Fairview Ave<br />

Boise, ID<br />

208-377-1119<br />

Illinois<br />

Beyond the Reef<br />

205 W Golf Rd<br />

Schaumburg, IL<br />

847-885-7333<br />

Chicago Reptile House<br />

14410 John Humphrey Dr<br />

Orland Park, IL<br />

708-403-1810<br />

Sailfin Pet Shop<br />

720 S Neil St<br />

Champaign, IL<br />

217-352-1121<br />

Indiana<br />

Inland Aquatics<br />

10 Ohio St<br />

Terre Haute, IL<br />

812-232-9000<br />

Iowa<br />

Aquatic Environments<br />

730 E Kimberly Rd<br />

Davenport, IA<br />

563-445-3687<br />

Massachusetts<br />

Krystal Clear Aquatics, LLC<br />

700 Southbridge St<br />

Auburn, MA<br />

508-832-2777<br />

South Coast Scientific<br />

109 McArthur Rd<br />

Swansea, MA<br />

508-678-8306<br />

Maryland<br />

House of Tropicals<br />

7389F Baltimore Annapolis Blvd<br />

Glen Burnie, MD<br />

410-761-1113<br />

Michigan<br />

Moby Dick Pet Store<br />

3700 Sashabaw Rd<br />

Waterford, MI<br />

248-673-2520<br />

MVPets<br />

7429 S Westnedge Ave<br />

Portage, MI<br />

269-492-7387<br />

Oceans and Seas<br />

26085 Gratiot Ave<br />

Roseville, MI<br />

586-778-2223<br />

Preuss Pets<br />

1127 N Cedar St<br />

Lansing, MI<br />

517-339-1762<br />

Missouri<br />

Seascape Studio<br />

3802 S Lindbergh<br />

Saint Louis, MO<br />

314-843-3636<br />

New Hampshire<br />

Aqua Addicts, LLC<br />

52 Lowell Rd<br />

Salem, NH<br />

603-890-0011<br />

Laconia Pet Center<br />

1343 Union Ave<br />

Laconia, NH<br />

603-524-8311<br />

New Jersey<br />

Aquarium Center<br />

1295 Blackwood Clementon Rd<br />

Clementon, NJ<br />

856-627-6262<br />

Pets, Pets, Pets<br />

2 JFK Blvd<br />

Somerset, NJ<br />

732-545-6675<br />

Tropiquarium & Petland<br />

Ocean Plaza, 1100 State Route 35<br />

Ocean, NJ<br />

732-922-2300<br />

New York<br />

A Reef Creation<br />

4700 Genesee St Ste 112<br />

Cheektowaga, NY<br />

716-565-0700<br />

ABC Reefs<br />

527 Charles Ave<br />

Syracuse, NY<br />

315-882-0778<br />

Atlantis Marine World<br />

431 East Main St<br />

Riverhead, NY<br />

631-208-9200<br />

Eddie’s Aquarium Ctr<br />

1254 New Loudon Rd Rt 9<br />

Cohoes, NY<br />

518-783-3474<br />

Manhattan Aquariums<br />

522 West 37th St<br />

New York, NY<br />

212-594-2272<br />

128 CORAL


Pet Friendly<br />

845 Manitou Rd<br />

Hilton, NY<br />

585 366 4242<br />

North Carolina<br />

Aquatic Consultants<br />

1610 US Highway 70E<br />

New Bern, NC<br />

252-638-4499<br />

Blue Ridge Reef & Pet<br />

103 WNC Shopping Ctr Dr<br />

Black Mountain, NC<br />

828-669-0032<br />

Mountains to Sea<br />

14 Sweeten Rd<br />

Asheville, NC<br />

828-707-1766<br />

Ohio<br />

Aquarium Adventure<br />

3632 W Dublin-Granville Rd<br />

Columbus, OH<br />

614-792-0884<br />

Salty Critter, LLC<br />

4809 Liberty Ave<br />

Vermilion, OH<br />

440-967-1634<br />

Oregon<br />

Oasis Tropical Fish<br />

1604 S Highway 97<br />

Redmond, OR<br />

541-504-0535<br />

Saltwater Fanta-Seas<br />

4814 NE 107th Ave<br />

Portland, OR<br />

503-255-1645<br />

Pennsylvania<br />

Something Fishy<br />

511 E 21st Street<br />

Northhampton, PA<br />

610-502-9760<br />

The Hidden Reef, Inc<br />

4501 New Falls Rd<br />

Levittown, PA<br />

215-269-4930<br />

South Carolina<br />

Aquarium Oddities<br />

1143 E Woodruff Rd<br />

Greenville, SC<br />

864-288-1191<br />

Ocean’s Floor, LLC<br />

179 Halton Rd<br />

Greenville, SC<br />

864-676-0104<br />

Tennessee<br />

Kermit’s Reef<br />

8551 Macon Rd<br />

Cordova, TN<br />

901-755-8033<br />

Texas<br />

Austin Aqua-Dome<br />

1604 Fortview Rd<br />

Austin, TX<br />

512-442-1400<br />

Birddog & Catfish Petshop<br />

115-D Old Boerne Rd<br />

Bulverde, TX<br />

830-980-8900<br />

Dallas World Aquarium<br />

1801 N Griffin<br />

Dallas, TX<br />

214-720-2224<br />

Fish Gallery Houston<br />

2909 Fountain View Dr<br />

Houston, TX<br />

713-523-3474<br />

Virginia<br />

Atlantis Aquariums<br />

9602 Patterson Ave<br />

Richmond, VA<br />

804-377-0243<br />

Fishworld<br />

11634A Busy St<br />

Richmond, VA<br />

804-379-2466<br />

Vermont<br />

Pet Advantage<br />

350 Dorset St<br />

S Burlington, VT<br />

802-860-1714<br />

Washington<br />

Barrier Reef Aquariums<br />

1717 NE 44th St<br />

Renton, WA<br />

425-277-7670<br />

CANADA<br />

Reef Wholesale<br />

(distribution only)<br />

12 Vulcan St<br />

Etobicoke, ON<br />

613-867-8717<br />

Alberta<br />

Big Al’s Aquarium<br />

Supercentres<br />

3511 99th St NW<br />

Edmonton, AB<br />

780-435-3474<br />

British Columbia<br />

Paws N Jaws<br />

4750 Rutherford Rd #147<br />

Nanaimo, BC<br />

888-952-7297<br />

Progressive Reef<br />

110–1790 Island Hwy<br />

Victoria, BC<br />

250-478-2151<br />

Red Coral Aquarium<br />

118–3604 52nd Ave NW<br />

Calgary, BC<br />

403-338-1880<br />

New Brunswick<br />

Maritime Reef<br />

1595 Hickey Rd<br />

St John, NB<br />

506-721-6743<br />

Ontario<br />

Advanced Reef Aquatics<br />

4–18 Thompson Rd N<br />

Milton, ON<br />

905-693-6363<br />

Aquariums by Design<br />

668 Erb St West<br />

Waterloo, ON<br />

519-603-1896<br />

Coral Reef Shop<br />

1371 Plains Road East<br />

Burlington, ON<br />

289-337-3398<br />

Sell coral<br />

Offer CORAL in your store and<br />

discover why magazine readers<br />

are your best customers.<br />

CORAL Magazine | C/O RETAILVISION<br />

23 POND LANE | MIDDLEBURY, VT 05753<br />

CALL (800) 381-1288 | Fax (802) 388-1290<br />

Monday–Friday 9 am–5 pm<br />

Fish Tail Aquariums<br />

2208 Saint Joseph Blvd #101<br />

Orleans, ON<br />

613-845-0048<br />

Living Aquariums<br />

652 Bishop N<br />

Cambridge, ON<br />

519-653-5151<br />

Mail Order Pet Supplies<br />

2–558 Upper Gage Ave Ste 211<br />

Hamilton, ON<br />

888-648-6677<br />

Marinescape<br />

947 Carling Ave<br />

Ottawa, ON<br />

613-761-1743<br />

Oakville Reef Gallery<br />

579 Kerr St Unit 2A<br />

Oakville, ON<br />

905-338-2782<br />

Sea Life Central<br />

561 Southdale Rd East<br />

London, ON<br />

519-601-0062<br />

Quebec<br />

Raging Reef<br />

10227 Ave Papineau<br />

Montreal, QC<br />

514-385-5333<br />

Saskatchewan<br />

Bayside Corals<br />

501 45 St W<br />

Saskatoon, SK<br />

306-382-4222<br />

Pats Pets<br />

1303 Scarth St<br />

Regina, SK<br />

306-569-9070<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

Australia<br />

Aqua Blue Distribution<br />

Loganholme, Queensland<br />

07-3806-4255<br />

Netherlands<br />

Stunning Corals<br />

Wolvenlaan 285<br />

1216EV Hilversum<br />

Noord-Holland<br />

06-1569-9743<br />

South Africa<br />

Aquarium Depot<br />

#1 Mackenzie Park Capital Hill<br />

392 Le Roux Ave<br />

Halfway House 1685<br />

11-805-8899<br />

Sweden<br />

Bioted Marine Ab<br />

Korsgatan 16<br />

434 43 Kungsbacka<br />

0300-17960<br />

United Kingdom<br />

Midland Reefs<br />

Mount Rd Trading Estate<br />

Burntwood, Staffordshire<br />

01543-685599<br />

CORAL 129


advanced aquatics | J. CHARLES DELBEEK<br />

Behind the scenes:<br />

Mammoth reef, mammoth challenges<br />

As marine aquarists, we all fantasize about having<br />

a bigger, better reef aquarium. After four<br />

years of working with the Steinhart Aquarium’s<br />

new 212,000-gallon Philippines Reef<br />

Exhibit, I can say that you may want to be cautious what<br />

you dream about. Bigger is exciting but not always easy.<br />

In the first three issues of CORAL in 2010, we described<br />

the creation of such a large reef system under<br />

the pressure of opening the much anticipated new Steinhart<br />

Aquarium in Golden Gate Park. The original team<br />

working on this system, Bart Shepherd, Matt Wandell,<br />

Richard Ross, Seth Wolters, and myself, has seen some<br />

changes as roles have changed within the department,<br />

including the addition of aquarists Marisa Avila, April<br />

Devitt, and Nick Yim. As the tank has progressed and<br />

various issues have arisen and been addressed, we have<br />

discovered nuances in the behavior of the system that<br />

continue to challenge us.<br />

With such a large system, keeping track of exactly<br />

what is in the aquarium can be a job in itself. While<br />

we knew exactly how many fish and corals we’d added,<br />

in the winter of this year we began the first systematic<br />

survey to see how many of the animals were still in the<br />

system. We developed a method using photographs of<br />

the tank from the main viewing windows and overheard<br />

views from the walkways, as well as underwater photos.<br />

The corals in each set of photos were then given an<br />

identifying code and counted. Along with the number,<br />

130 CORAL


genus, and species, the source of the coral was also recorded.<br />

Though tedious and time consuming, counting<br />

the corals was the easy part. Remembering where each<br />

and every one came from, and being able to identify<br />

them again in future annual censuses, proved to be challenging,<br />

but obviously it was important.<br />

FISH CENSUS<br />

For the majority of the fish in the system, we knew the<br />

genus and species, as well as the number originally added<br />

and where we got them. The challenge was counting every<br />

single individual—there were several hundred anthias,<br />

for example.<br />

For those species that number 20 or fewer specimens,<br />

a visual census made from the windows and while diving<br />

proved to be a viable option. However, for those species<br />

that we had in much higher numbers, the only way to get<br />

an accurate count was through photography. By feeding<br />

the tank in a certain location, we could get most of the<br />

fish to stream to one spot, where we took high resolution<br />

digital photos. Then we looked at these images on the<br />

computer and determined the number of fish by loading<br />

the images into Photoshop and counting each individual<br />

fish. Using the paintbrush tool, I placed a colored dot on<br />

the fish once I had counted it to insure I did not recount<br />

the same fish. While not perfect, this method allowed us<br />

to get at least a rough idea of the numbers for each species,<br />

some numbering in the hundreds.<br />

The California Academy of Science’s Steinhart Aquarium<br />

212,000-gallon (800,000-L) features a dramatic Philippine<br />

Coral Reef Exhibit that has seen its fish population increase<br />

dramatically in just under four years, as some larger species<br />

that proved troublesome were removed and more small,<br />

shoaling species added. With a depth of 25 feet (7.6 m), it is<br />

one of the deepest exhibits of live corals in the world, and it<br />

is still far from mature. Behind the scenes, various challenges<br />

have arisen, often demanding creative solutions. Just keeping<br />

an accurate tally of the livestock numbers has the author<br />

and his colleagues devising ways to count the profusion of<br />

swarming fishes. The current head count is approximately<br />

1,300 fishes representing 117 species, with more than 600 live<br />

corals. Above, fishes streaming toward a food source to be<br />

digitally photographed and counted.<br />

ALL IMAGES: J. CHARLES DELBEEK<br />

CORAL 131


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Over the last four years we also identified fish species that were having<br />

a negative impact on our corals and on the fish populations. We knew that<br />

some of these, such as triggerfishes and large wrasses, might eat some of the<br />

smaller fishes and soft corals, but there were others, such as Naso vlamingii,<br />

that we were surprised to find eating our large Sarcophyton leather corals.<br />

These fish were, for the most part, removed and replaced with larger numbers<br />

of smaller schooling species. At present our list of counted specimens stands<br />

at a little over 1,300 fish, representing 117 species. We also have more than<br />

600 pieces of live coral, both softies and hard, along with some gorgonians<br />

and sea whips.<br />

COPING WITH PHOSPHATE<br />

Not unlike most reef aquarists, we have been having challenges with inorganic<br />

phosphate. In the last two years we were able to get it down to 0.08<br />

ppm, using lanthanum chloride on three occasions, but we never really liked<br />

the way our corals, and especially the tridacnid clams, reacted to it—we would<br />

invariably lose one or two a few weeks after each treatment. We added two<br />

small GFO (granular ferric oxide) reactors of our own design to the system in<br />

the past year. Together they only hold about 20 gallons of media, but they did<br />

have a positive impact on phosphate. Still, our phosphate reading has gradually<br />

risen to around 0.2 ppm despite frequently recharging the GFO with<br />

sodium hydroxide or replacing the media entirely. We are currently exploring<br />

constructing larger reactors to be able to hold at least 150 gallons of media,<br />

and be able to turn over all 212,000 gallons within 48 hours.<br />

In addition to the GFO reactor, we also installed a commercially available<br />

canister of activated carbon. This was designed to be fed water from our<br />

deaeration tower, a three-story device designed to degas water from all the<br />

skimmers and sand filters and then return it back to the tower. With this<br />

system we are able to turn over the entire water volume in three weeks. The<br />

results were evident in the lower level of dissolved organic carbon and the<br />

reduction in cyanobacteria. We change the carbon about once a month or<br />

whenever we see an increase in cyanobacteria in the shallows section of the<br />

reef. The combination of ozone and activated carbon has been shown to have<br />

a synergistic effect on the removal of organics, but we would like to have better<br />

control of this part of the system.<br />

We have just completed a total revamp of our ozone system for all the exhibits<br />

that use it. Originally we were given a single large ozone generator that<br />

provided ozone to all seven of our major exhibits. This involved a series of<br />

valves, regulators, solenoids, and rotameters to measure gas flow rates. Each<br />

time we adjusted flow in one system, the flow in the other systems would<br />

vary; it became a real headache to balance the system. In addition, we were<br />

only running the generator at 6 percent of its rated output. We are now using<br />

dedicated ozone generators for each contactor, such as the fractionators.<br />

The main goals were to eliminate points of failure, making the system<br />

more reliable, eliminating the danger of over-ozonizing an exhibit by downsizing<br />

the generators, and making the system safer to operate. Instead of<br />

switching solenoids to direct ozone flow to the contactor or to a destruct unit<br />

when ORP levels became too high, the computer will now simply turn the<br />

generator on or off. By eliminating the solenoids, we removed devices that<br />

we consistently had problems with. The new machines were sized to deliver<br />

just enough ozone to the system without the danger of nuking the tank if set<br />

to maximum.<br />

FUTURE CHALLENGES<br />

Despite the numerous improvements made to the system, we still have baffling<br />

episodes where corals that had done well begin to lose color and, even-<br />

What do biological<br />

filtration and food<br />

have in common?<br />

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phosphates<br />

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for aquariums up to 600 gallons<br />

NPX BioPlastics ® are pelletized biodegradable<br />

polymers that provide a time-released source of<br />

food for bacteria that assimilate nitrate and<br />

phosphate. The bacteria grow on the pellet<br />

surfaces, and excess growth sloughs off due to<br />

the tumbling in a fluidized filter. These bacteria<br />

can be harvested with a protein skimmer or serve<br />

as planktonic food for filter-feeding invertebrates<br />

such as corals, clams, and sponges. Anaerobic<br />

zones also develop within the pellets, thus<br />

promoting denitrification there. Why bother with<br />

dosing Vodka daily when you can just use NPX<br />

BioPlastics and let the bacteria work for you?<br />

Two Little Fishies Inc.<br />

www.twolittlefishies.com<br />

CORAL 133


ADVERTISER Index<br />

A&M Aquatics ............................ 14, 18<br />

www.amaquatics.com<br />

Amazonas Magazine ........................109<br />

www.amazonasmagazine.com<br />

American Marine ............................117<br />

www.americanmarineusa.com<br />

Aqua Craft Products® ................... 5, 36, 37<br />

www.aquacraft.net<br />

Aqua Engineering & Equipment ..............123<br />

www.aquariumwaterfilters.com<br />

Aqua Medic ............................. 23, 113<br />

www.aqua-medic.com<br />

Aqua Top ...................................127<br />

www.aquatopled.com<br />

Aquatic Life ...................................6<br />

www.aquaticlife.com<br />

Aquatic Pixels ...............................135<br />

www.aquaticpixels.net<br />

Bashsea ......................................43<br />

www.bashsea.com<br />

Boyd Enterprises ..............................2<br />

www.chemipure.com<br />

Breeder’s Registry ...........................127<br />

www.BreedersRegistry.org<br />

Brightwell Aquatics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39<br />

www.brightwellaquatics.com<br />

Coralife ......................................11<br />

www.coralifeproducts.com<br />

CPR Aquatics ............................. 15, 85<br />

www.cprusa.com<br />

D-D ............................inside back cover<br />

www.theaquariumsolution.us<br />

EcoRay .......................................45<br />

www.ecorayled.com<br />

EcoReef Corals ..............................123<br />

www.ecoreefcorals.com<br />

EcoTech Marine ...... inside front cover, 2, 20, 21<br />

www.ecotechmarine.com<br />

Fauna Marin/Reef Wholesale .................103<br />

www.reefwholesale.com/about-balling<br />

Grotech ......................................17<br />

www.grotech.de<br />

Hydor .......................................19<br />

www.hydorkoralia.com<br />

Inland Reefkeepers Saw ......................84<br />

www.inlandhobby.com/dfs<br />

Instant Ocean ................................29<br />

www.instantocean.com<br />

Karen Talbot Art .............................135<br />

www.karentalbotart.com<br />

KP Aquatics .................................127<br />

www.kpaquatics.com<br />

Lifegard Aquatics ............................44<br />

www.lifegardaquatics.com<br />

LFS Locator .................................126<br />

www.lfslocator.com<br />

MACNA 2012 ................................104<br />

www.dfwmacna.com<br />

Marata .......................................12<br />

www.marata.org<br />

Marine Breeding Initiative Workshop ..........42<br />

www.mbiworkshop.com<br />

Milwaukee Instruments .......................13<br />

www.milwaukeeinstruments.com<br />

Nutra-Kol ...................................132<br />

www.nutrakolusa.com<br />

Ocean Nutrition .............................118<br />

www.oceannutrition.com<br />

Ocean Critters Ranch (OCR) ...................32<br />

www.oceancrittersranch.com<br />

Orphek ......................................32<br />

www.orphek.com<br />

Pacific Aqua Farms ..........................123<br />

www.pacificaquafarms.com<br />

Piscine Energetics ............................16<br />

www.mysis.com<br />

Poly-Bio-Marine ..............................27<br />

www.poly-bio-marine.com<br />

Prodibio ....................................112<br />

www.prodibio.com<br />

Quality Marine ................................9<br />

www.qualitymarine.com<br />

Red Sea ................................. 91, 111<br />

www.redseafish.com<br />

Reef Aquaria Design .........................119<br />

www.reefaquariadesign.com<br />

ReefBuilders .................................84<br />

www.reefbuilders.com<br />

Reef Dynamics ...............................93<br />

www.reefdynamics.com<br />

Reef Nutrition ...............................114<br />

www.reefnutrition.com<br />

Reefs.com ...................................127<br />

www.reefs.com<br />

Rod’s Food ..................................120<br />

www.rodsfood.com<br />

Royal Nature/Reef Wholesale .................47<br />

www.reefwholesale.com/royal-nature<br />

Russo’s Reef ..................................26<br />

www.russosreef.com<br />

San Francisco Bay Brand .....................132<br />

www.sfbb.com<br />

Segrest Farms ................................25<br />

www.segrestfarms.com<br />

Sicce ........................................124<br />

http://sicceus.com<br />

Thrive Aquatics ..............................33<br />

www.thriveaquatics.com<br />

Tropic Marin .........................back cover<br />

www.tropic-marin.com<br />

Tunze .......................................104<br />

www.tunze.com<br />

Two Little Fishies . . 12, 31, 43, 70, 71, 92, 120, 133<br />

www.twolittlefishies.com<br />

Ushio ........................................69<br />

www.ushio.com<br />

Vermont Business Brokers ...................132<br />

www.vermontbusinessbrokers.com<br />

Wallet Pen ..................................127<br />

www.thewalletpen.com<br />

ZeroEdge ...................................125<br />

www.zeroedgeaquarium.com<br />

ZooMed .....................................30<br />

www.zoomed.com<br />

For a CORAL Media Kit or other information, please contact:<br />

802.985.9977 Ext. 7<br />

134 CORAL


tually, tissue. Large water changes of<br />

15,000 gallons every week for four weeks<br />

will often reverse this trend, but sometimes<br />

the corals begin to look better before<br />

the water change. We have always<br />

suspected that heavy metals are an issue,<br />

and we know that we have metal in the<br />

system and elevated levels of aluminum,<br />

chromium, nickel, and selenium. While<br />

GFO will remove some heavy metals, the<br />

amount that we are currently using is<br />

probably not enough, and we can’t turn<br />

over the tank water fast enough to remove<br />

them effectively.<br />

We hope that increasing the size of<br />

the GFO reactors, along with perhaps<br />

setting up another set of reactors to use<br />

<br />

heavy metals, will help. We have also<br />

begun a systematic examination of the<br />

system in order to identify and replace<br />

metal components wherever we can find<br />

them. First on our list are the stainless<br />

steel check valves used in our 40 HP recirculation<br />

pumps. These have corroded<br />

badly and are currently being replaced<br />

with non-metallic check valves. The<br />

hunt continues.<br />

Despite all of the above, we continue<br />

to be encouraged by what we have seen<br />

as the tank begins to mature. The soft<br />

corals are doing much better and beginning<br />

to spread over the rockwork. The<br />

stony corals are showing signs of new<br />

growth and the fish are still robust and<br />

healthy-looking, and many of them are<br />

spawning regularly.<br />

To aid in dispersing food to all levels<br />

of the tank, we recently tapped into<br />

our recirculation system so that we can<br />

easily inject Mysis <br />

and other foods into the return lines.<br />

We have also set up an autofeeder and<br />

run lines along the surface to locations<br />

where water jets are located so that we<br />

can inject live BBS (baby brine shrimp,<br />

Artemia nauplii), rotifers, and other<br />

foods on a timed basis throughout the<br />

day for our large Anthias and damsel<br />

populations.<br />

In our first four years we have seen<br />

tremendous progress, and we look forward<br />

to seeing even more as we continue<br />

to create one of the largest living reefs in<br />

the world in the heart of San Francisco’s<br />

Golden Gate Park.<br />

CORAL 135


TK<br />

reef life | LARRY P. TACKETT<br />

136 CORAL


An enhanced, natural salt manufactured by solar<br />

evaporation of water taken from one of the richest coral<br />

seas on the planet. This results in a salt in which every<br />

bucket contains over 70 trace elements in exact natural<br />

proportions including 23 which occur at less than 1 PPM.<br />

This pure base salt is then specially enhanced for the reef<br />

aquarium by the elevation of specific parameters required<br />

for growth and colour such as magnesium, calcium,<br />

potassium and dKH. The result is a unique formulation<br />

which gives you fantastic results.<br />

The ultimate high<br />

magnesium salt<br />

WHAT IS IN YOUR BUCKET?<br />

Even if you can detect all of the elements that occur naturally in the water<br />

around the reef and determine the levels correctly, imagine attempting to blend<br />

these 23+ minor trace elements evenly during the manufacture of a<br />

synthetic<br />

salt when they occur at less than 1 gram to 1 tonne of salt. What is the<br />

effect of<br />

these trace elements if you get more than your fair share in your bucket? With<br />

H2Ocean Pro+ we let nature be your mixing pot so we guarantee anteee you every<br />

bucket is correct.<br />

GUARANTEED PARAMETERS (salinity 35. 5ppt)<br />

Parameters Level Range Units<br />

pH 8.3 8.2 - 8.4<br />

dKH 9.3 8.7 - 9.8<br />

Calcium (Ca2+) 440 430 - 460 mg/l<br />

Magnesium (Mg2+) 1340 1300 - 1380 mg/l<br />

Chloride (Cl-) 19550 19960 - 20130 mg/l<br />

Potassium (K+) 410 380 - 420 mg/l<br />

VISIBLE RESULTS<br />

The formulation for H2Ocean Pro+ salt was developed to give you the optimum<br />

chemistry for a healthy reef aquarium and to allow growth of even en the most<br />

difficult corals and sponges and to date the demand for this salt and the<br />

positive feedback from both hobbyists and experts alike have exceeded our<br />

expectations.<br />

PRO PLUS FORMULA – BOOSTING YOUR MAGNESIUM<br />

Many salts concentrate on enhancing calcium levels and often ignore the<br />

importance of magnesium. The correct magnesium level has an enormous<br />

impact on how easy it is to maintain the calcium level, pH and alkalinity in your<br />

tank and can halve the time that you need to run your calcium reactor.<br />

We recommend that you use a D-D portable SEAWATER refractometer for<br />

accurate and consistent measurement of the salinity in your aquarium. These e<br />

are widely available from your D-D retailer.<br />

RO WATER<br />

H2Ocean Pro+ is designed for use with reverse osmosis, deionised or soft<br />

water with a calcium level below 30mg/l. As the calcium level in H2Ocean Pro+<br />

is already boosted to 440mg/l then mixing it with hard tap water containing<br />

additional calcium may exceed the point at which it will precipitate out<br />

of solution.<br />

Reverse osmosis removes ions such as nitrate and phosphate from your<br />

tap water which otherwise would contribute towards nuisance algae in<br />

your aquarium.<br />

www.theaquariumsolution.com<br />

New USA website: www.theaquariumsolution.us

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