The Avant Garde Issue

FASHION XCHANGE 

ALL FASHON. ALL BUSINESS. NO GOSSIP. 

AVANT GARDE 2015 · NO 10 

THE AVANT GARDE ISSUE 

RUNWAY RENEGADE 

ALEXANDRIA VON BROMSSEN 

Lluvy 

Gomez 

BEYOND AMERICA’S NEXT TOP MODEL 

AVANT GARDE FASHION 

It’s history & influence 

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week 

Academy of Art Show 

2015 FALL BEAUTY TRENDS 

MAN OF MANY STYLES 

DORK DOZIER 

BEHIND THE LENS 

PHOTOGRAPHY PROFILE WITH 

SARAH BRICKEY 

Fashion Xchange Magazine | Avant Garde Issue 2015 | 1

“All Fashion. All Business. No Gossip.” 

Editor-In-Chief 

Managing Editor 

Director of Photography 

LA Photography Director 

Contributing Photographers 

Advertising Director 

Graphic Designer 

Writers 

ROBERT SILVER 

IVANNA WOODS 

ROBERT SILVER 

DERRICK RODGERS 

KEN ALCAZAR 

FILIP FILIPIAK 

PATRICIA GOMEZ 

PETE HOPKINS 

HOWARD LEVINE 

MICHAEL MOORE 

CHARLES SEDGHL 

STEPHEN WHELLER 

JUAN ZAMBRANO 

MARGAUX VICKERS 

ROBERT SILVER 

HANNAH BE 

CHRISTINA MITCHELL-LESSER 

CAITY SHREVE 

ALEXA RAE PALACIOS 

RACHEL RIOT 

CAITY SHREVE 

V. ALEXANDRA DE F. SZOENYI 

MALCOLM THOMAS 

JEANE WALSH 

IVANNA WOODS 

Questions and feedback: 

1282 Mattox Rd., #42, Hayward, CA, 94541 

Phone: (510) 363-8080 

Email: info@fashionxchangemag.com 

Online: www.fashionxchangemag.com 

For Advertising & Sales: 

Phone: (800) 690-9931 

Fax (800) 383- 2709 

Email: ads@fashionxchangemag.com 

Fashion Xchange Magazine is a fashion industry trade magazine. As a resource for emerging & established 

professionals we advocate the brands, events & professionals that embodies the success of the fashion industry. 

Beyond mere product placement, with a goal of delivering informative content, we’re focused on giving in-depth 

reporting & analysis of the ever changing fashion industry trends. We enlighten our readers with the necessary 

tips & advice on how to create and maintain a sustainable career in the industry. Whether you’re a model, fashion 

designer, photographer, student or a fan of fashion, Fashion Xchange Magazine allows our readers to gain knowledge 

often only revealed behind closed doors. 

“All Fashion. All Business. No Gossip.” 

 

2 | Avant Garde Issue 2015 | Fashion Xchange Magazine

24 

Runway Renegade 

Alexandria von Bromssen 

Lluvy Gomez 

Beyond America’s Next Top Model 

04 

06 

08 

10 

14 

18 

20 

22 

34 

40 

46 

50 

54 

Letter From The Editor 

Behind the Avant 

On it’s history & influence 

Innovation: IIMUAHI 

The Transition of Sensiblity 

How To Become A Fashion Stylist 

The New Celebrity 

California Fashion Association 

President: Ilse Metchek 

Live2LoveArt 

David Reposar 

In Living Color 

With Geetika Gupta of Art Institute 

Roc Rio Designs 

Delivering Modern Edginess 

Photography by Robert Silver 

Ken Chen 

On The Cutting Edge 

Janay Rose 

Pieces Of A Masterpiece 

Chrisitna Morgan Cree 

One Of A Kind Couture 

About A Woman 

Anastasia Bachykala 

27 

58 

62 

68 

72 

82 

84 

88 

90 

94 

98 

101 

82 

Behind The 

Lens 

With Sarah Brickey 

Photography 

Plague: Best Emerging Designer 

Maricella Olague 

Once Upon A Runway 

With Paris Harris 

Photography by Derrick Rodgers 

Dork Dozier 

Letting His Inner Dork Shine 

Kaye Morales 

The Centipede Collection 

Photographed by Ken Alcazar 

Creating Winning Photo Shoots 

BehindThe Lens 

A photogrpaher’s profile with Sarah Brickey 

Studio Fashion Shoots - Meetup Group 

Avant Garde Makeup workshop for 

photographers of all levels 

Amorous Style at LOVESICK Fashion Show 

2015 Beauty Trends At 


An Education: Backstage at the Fall 2015 Academy 

Fresh Face Model 

Leslie Hawkins 


► 

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 

to sharing the business of fashion, we will be adding a 

e-commerce section to our physical, digital issue and 

website. When we highlight boutiques, brands and 

designers, you will have the option to shop products 

featured in the editorials with the simple click of a button. 

With same sex marriage becoming a reality across all 50 

states, the increasing legalization of medical marijuana 

and more designers experimenting with genderless 

collections - this is the best moment in time for doing 

what others are not. Not only is the industry becoming 

more open towards embracing broader market, but it 

also shows that its’ audience is ready for change. I believe 

this is the time to for those in fashion push themselves; 

through photography,fabric choice, ways you engage 

with your audience - and beyond. If the same always 

worked, then Myspace would still be around. 

As the first issue of 2015, we took a moment 

to look back at our successes and learning 

experiences. This is an opportunity to look 

forward and adapt our new goals according to 

the lessons we’ve learned the previous year. 

My first goal for Fashion Xchange was to build a brand 

during our first year - by any means, nothing more, 

nothing less. Creating a name for ourselves through 

consistent fashion coverage, and engaging readers on as 

many platforms available to us as possible. Putting profits 

aside helped us to focus on creating a strong editorial 

voice from the start. 

We’ve had the opportunity to interview numerous 

industry professionals that have helped to fine tune our 

mission. Ilse Metchek, President of California Fashion 

Association (page 18), broke down the difference 

between east coast / west coast fashion industries in the 

United States and why there is a disconnect with runway 

shows and how they don’t promise to be profitable for 

emerging or established fashion designers. 

Since the last issue, Blanc Noir & Couture Issue No. 

9, we have added two more sections to our website, 

Photography and Retail. With increasing our dedication 

As we were producing this issue, I would continually 

ask myself what ‘avant garde’ means to me. Daring. 

Controversial. Unorthodox. These can all been said about 

any legendary designers such as Chanel, Betsey Johnson 

or Alexander McQueen - all who exude style, passion & 

individuality. With that in mind, I wanted to make sure 

that our first avant garde issue set a particular tone. 

Allowing ourselves to embrace change while staying true 

to our mission. 

This issue includes more contributing photographers 

than any other - Sarah Brickey (page 84), Ken Alcazar 

(Kaye Morales, page 72), Filip Filipiak (Transition of 

Sensibility, page 10) and the creative contributions from 

vintage Stylist Hannah Be (How To Become A Fashion 

Stylist: The New Celebrity, page 14). We have also added 

more writers to our editorial team that have helped 

diversify our voice. 

Entering into our second year of publication is an 

incredible feeling of anxiety,excitement and amazement 

of how far we have come in just one year. We remain 

thankful to everyone who’s helped us along the way and 

continue to see the potential our vision. Prepare yourself 

for another awesome year and the new special edition, biannual 

issue of Fashion Xchange, “The Runway Rapport”- 

as we share, discuss and bring to you backstage access, 

runway images, designer interviews, and breaking news 

from the leading fashion shows of each season all in one 

issue! 


Editor In Chief ROBERT SILVER 


Behind THE Avant 

Innovative. Daring. Ahead of its time. These words are often used to 

describe the work of a handful of fashion designers that go against 

mainstream conventions to create something new. These artists are 

known as the avant-garde. But what is avant-garde? It is a term often 

thrown around without understanding of it’s origin. 

By V. Alexandra de F. Szoenyi 

Avant-garde originated as a military phrase. 

Literally translating to “advance guard” or 

“vanguard,” they were the small group of highlyskilled 

soldiers that went ahead of the main 

troops in battle. Avant-garde now speaks of progressive 

artists that like to push the envelope and change people’s 

perceptions of what is fashionable. Not surprisingly, 

social and political commentary are also made with these 

sartorial statements. 

In fashion, there are a handful of highly-skilled designers 

that stood at the forefront of their craft, illuminating the 

way for the rest of the fashion world to follow. They took 

risks by using different materials, techniques, silhouettes 

and different directions entirely from what was done 

before. The following are five masters of Avant-garde 

fashion, and names worth knowing: 

GABRIELLE 

“COCO” CHANEL 

Although her designs aren’t radical by today’s standards, 

Chanel was a forward-thinking pioneer in the changes 

she made in women’s fashion. She helped eradicate 

the confining corset in the early 1900s, adopting a 

freer, more relaxed silhouette, made black acceptable 

for more than just mourning with her little black dress, 

and made costume jewelry chic. Chanel also elevated 

jersey fabric to a couture level, made pants de rigeur for 

women, and created the iconic Chanel suit - chic but 

also meant to offer ease of wear. Comfort became as 

important as style, and faux as essential as authentic. 

CHANEL 

ELSA 

SCHIAPARELLI 

This designer collaborated with other avant-garde 

artists in the 1930s, such as Jean Cocteau and Salvador 

Dali, to create outrageous garments like the lobster 

dress and shoe hat. Also creating forward-thinking 

garments on her own, Schiaparelli was the first to use 

rayon, Lurex fabrics, and tricked the eye with the first 

ever trompe l’oeil bow sweater. She dyed zippers that 

were used on the outside of clothing, used buttons in 

the shapes of snails, hands, and people, and introduced 

to the world the color “Shocking Pink.” 


RUDI 

GERNREICH 

Starting in the 1960s, Gernreich 

designed completely out of the box, 

using bold colors and prints, vinyl and 

plastic as fabric, adding cutouts to 

garments, and shocking the world with 

a topless monokini bathing suit. In the 

vein of liberating women and liberating 

the body, the designer also created 

bodysuit-like garments that allowed 

for free movement. Gender roles were 

also freed sartorially, as Rudi Genreich is 

also credited with the concept of unisex 

clothing. 

KAWAKUBO 

REI 

KAWAKUBO 

Choosing to outright ignore the female 

shape, in the 1980s, Kawakubo made her 

Commes des Garçons (French for “like the 

boys”) clothing line more about the art 

being conveyed. Draped around the body 

in oversized, asymmetrical silhouettes, her 

clothing went so far as to be considered 

“anti-fashion.” Colors were mostly black, 

dark grey and white, there were unfinished 

edges, wrinkles and holes. Rei Kawakubo 

wanted to challenge the view of feminine 

beauty and work against the sexy looks 

permeating the runways, and in the process 

ushered in a new era of deconstructed cool. 

GERNREICH 

SCHIAPARELLI 

ALEXANDER 

MCQUEEN 

“The hooligan of English fashion” was a 

controversial character who brought an 

avant-garde edge to not only his clothing, 

but also to his outrageous fashion shows. 

Models became pawns in an oversized 

chess game, pretended to be electrocuted 

and robots sprayed dresses with color. 

Garments, tailored to perfection, featured 

digital prints, python lace, bones and 

human hair. McQueen, wanting to make 

the world look at things it didn’t want to 

MCQUEEN 

but needed to, used his garments to shock 

while making a social statement. 

Innovative. Daring. Ahead of its time. 

These words are often used to describe 

the work of a handful of fashion designers 

that go against mainstream conventions 

to create something new. These artists 

are known as the Avant-Garde. But what 

is Avant-garde? It is term often thrown 

around without an understanding of its 

origin. 


Innovation: IIMUAHI 

From the land where web startups & technoligical innovation is born. 

BY CAITY SHREVE 

The Bay Area is a wellestablished 

center for 

technology and business. 

Home to some of the 

world’s largest tech 

giants like Twitter, Facebook, and 

Google. We’re known for nurturing 

start-up companies with incubator 

programs, helping develop innovative 

technology, and fostering creative 

talents across all fields. 

One of these recent exports is 

designer Elena Slivnyak – An original 

on all fronts – Precisely the type of 

talent the Bay Area is proud to support. 

Not only has this 

accomplished designer conquered the 

8 | Avant Garde Issue 2015 | Fashion Xchange Magazine 

catwalks of New 

York Fashion Week 

and appeared on 

both Project Runway 

and Project Runway 

All Stars, but she’s 

achieved it on her 

own terms. With 

a client list that 

includes Lady Gaga, 

Tyra Banks, Debbie 

Harry, and Ciara, it 

would be easy for 

her to rest on her 

laurels. However, she 

continues to intrigue 

her growing fan base 

with innovative, bold 

new designs. 

In addition to 

a sportswear line – 

R2Wear – Elena has 

plans to conquer 

the menswear and 

accessories arenas. 

And if that wasn’t 

enough, she’s also 

producing one-ofa-kind 

costumes for 

the Hunger Games franchise and Cirque 

DuSoleil. 

Fashion Xchange got a chance 

to chat with this San Francisco-based 

designer about the future of IIMUAHI 

Couture, upcoming projects, and her 

thoughts on the US fashion industry. 

Q1: You’re an alumnus of AAU and 

have had the honor of being on 

Project Runway not once, but twice. 

What can you tell FX about yourself 

and your background that they may 

not already know? 

My first degree was in Product 

Development, which gave a perspective 

in to the business world. I am not 

particularly happy with fast fashion 

today, which pollutes our environment, 

and drives talented designers that 

actually produce quality fashion out of 

business. I know that I cannot keep up 

with this, so I’ve been taking a different 

approach to business. In the last year I 

opened doors to clients that want highend 

custom made designs, and have 

been fulfilling up to three orders per 

month, on mostly jackets, for men and 

women. Jackets are my thing and my 

true specialty. 

I have also been contracted to create 

unique costumes for the Hunger Games 

Mocking Jay film and I’m currently 

working with a Cirque DuSoleil type 

show as their costume designer. I love 

creating avant-garde fashion and plan to 

stick with it for the future. My ultimate 

goal is to be the go-to house for the 

film and entertainment industries. I’m 

launching my new collection entitled 

“Space Opera” in the next few months 

and really hope that it will open more of 

those doors for me. 

Q2: I’m a big fan of IIMUAHII’s eco and 

animal-friendly approach to fashion 

– How do you feel you differ from 

your peers in this respect? From your 

point of view, does this refreshing 

perspective impact your vision and 

your designs in the long run? 

I do not use fur, and most of the materials 

I prefer are man made. I only buy from 

suppliers that can prove that they are 

taking extreme measures to ensure the 

safety of our environment. I produce 

everything in-house and local, to ensure 

everything is environmentally healthy. I 

recently even went as far as restricting 

my hair and make-up team to only use 

cruelty free products when working with

me on set. I love animals and our planet, 

it is so remarkable the world we live in, 

and hope that one day people will wake 

up and start caring about every living 

creature and taking care of this gift that 

was given to us called Earth. I am just 

one person and I believe that all it takes 

is one person to influence everyone 

around you. 

Q3: IIMUAHII Couture has recently 

focused on new avant garde designs 

& costuming. What knowledge from 

your RTW experience are you holding 

onto as you head into this next 

chapter? 

I’m not completely done with ready 

to wear, I’m just waiting for the right 

opportunity to come along, where I 

will feel strong enough to take another 

shot. It’s not my first love so currently 

it’s on a back-burner. My ready to wear 

New York is definitely 

more fast-paced, which 

is not my cup of tea. 

New York designers 

also have a certain 

aesthetic that circulates 

in the air there, which 

is also not my cup of 

tea. There are a lot 

more resources in NY 

definitely, but I believe 

that if you are good at 

what you do, you can 

be located anywhere you want and 

people will come to you. That is why I 

choose to stay in my favorite city in the 

world, SF. 

Q5: What advice would you offer to a 

new designer just embarking on their 

career in fashion? Any lessons you 

learned the hard way? 

Fashion design is not a joke and it’s a 

lot harder to make it than people think, 

I would say they need to be patient 

and persistent, they need to be able to 

take criticism and brush it off and keep 

going. You have to be tough and not 

let your failures get the best of you, and 

most of all practice your craft every day 

because that is the only way you will 

get better. 

end result is nothing short of art. 

This boundary-pushing designer is 

certainly one to keep an eye on in the 

future as she continues to produce 

new collections, features her designs in 

film, magazines, and on the stage, and 

pioneers a new approach to avant-garde 

couture. 

experience really taught me about the 

needs of different clients, what they like, 

what they are missing in stores and so 

on. I put this knowledge to use for my 

private clients, and I’m planning to use 

all of this knowledge when I do launch 

a ready-to-wear line sometime in the 

future. 

I’ve had the pleasure of seeing some 

of the IIMUAHI pieces in person and 

they’re an eye-catching combination 

of sleek futuristic designs and intricate 

couture-level attention to detail. The 

Q4: With your incredible background 

showing at Fashion Week, working 

on a television series, and launching 

your own company, you’ve had a 

chance to experience a great deal 

of what the fashion industry has 

to offer. What would you say the 

major differences are between 

San Francisco and New York for a 

designer? 

Photographers: Juan Zambrano & Stephen Wheller 


THE 

TRANSITION 

OFSENSIBILITY 

PHOTOGRAPHED BY FILIP FILIPIAK 


Model Ola K / SPOT Management 

Stylist & Makeup: Joanna Głowacka 

Art Director: Greg Red 

Jewelry: Viintage 




HOW TO BECOME A 

THE NEW CELEBRITY 

BY HANNAH BE 

HAVE YOU EVER 

FLIPPED THROUGH 

YOUR FAVORITE 

MAGAZINE AND 

WONDERED WHO WAS 

BEHIND THE LOOKS 

OF YOUR FAVORITE 

MODEL. HAVE YOU 

EVER THOUGHT, HOW 

YOU COULD GET A JOB 

STYLING YOUR MOST 

ADMIRED CELEBRITY? 

DO YOU WORK HARD, 

HAVE A PASSION FOR 

FASHION, AND KNOW 

HOW TO NETWORK? 

WELL, IF YOU SAID YES 

TO ANY OR ALL OF 

THESE QUESTIONS, 

READ CAREFULLY AS I 

SHARE MY TIPS WITH 

YOU ON HOW TO 

BECOME A FASHION 

STYLIST - THE NEW 

CELEBRITY. 

First thing’s first. EDUCATION is key. Formal 

or informal training is ideal in this 

1 

field. Study patterns, color 

composition, fabrics and materials. 

Familiarize yourself with upcoming 

styles and trends. Learn cuts, styles, and 

what looks work well on different body 

types. Always know your fashion 

designers, but most importantly learn 

how to pronounce their names. You 

want to make the client feel confident 

that they chose you to represent their 

brand. 

FOLLOW 

These 

STEPS 

2INTERN 

I know, I know,. Who wants to work 

for free? The answer is, YOU do. By 

interning you can get to know the 

fundamentals of the business. You will 

also have access on how the industry 

works from top to bottom, while 

gaining top notch connections. Once 

you have gained the training you 

need to get started, take your skill set 

to the next level, and get a paying gig. 


FASHION STYLIST 

3NETWORK 

You must NETWORK to get 

WORK. Go get yourself some 

professional business cards, 

and go mingle. Get to know 

the industry players, by 

going to events and socials. 

Connect with fashion 

designers, photographers, 

makeup, or hair artists. By 

connecting with these major 

behind the scene players, you 

will stay in the loop when new 

styling jobs come along. 


4PORTFOLIO 

Since you’re new to the industry, 

developing a quality style portfolio will 

be the most important thing on this list. 

Hiring a style team of photographers, 

models, hair and makeup will be costly. 

You think, “how will I ever get a budget 

to get started?” Easy, it’s called trade 

for print. TFP or TFCD is a term used 

in the fashion industry to trade your 

style time, for the photographers prints 

or cd’s. When creating your portfolio 

make sure to show range in your style 

aesthetics. Add images of product 

placement, high fashion, or head shots 

to show variety in your styling. This way 

you can market yourself to an array of 

publishers. 


5SUBMIT 

Once you have a quality portfolio, 

submit your work to different agencies 

and / or publications. When submitting, 

make sure you have permission from 

the photographer as they will own the 

copyright to the photo. Always accredit 

all that was involved in creating your 

looks. 

6 

REACH THE STARS 

By reaching for the stars, you need 

to out TO the stars. Connect with you 

favorite musician, actors or models. 

Find them on social media, or connect 

directly through their agents. Introduce 

yourself as a stylist, and send 

images of your work. If your style fits 

their brand you just may gain yourself 

some celebrity clientele. 


profile 

CALIFORNIA 

FASHION 

ASSOCIATION 

PRESIDENT: 

ILSE METCHEK 

THE CALIFORNIA FASHION ASSOCIATION IS AN ORGANIZATION 

BORN OUT OF NECESSITY TO PROVIDE LEADERS OF THE 

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA MANUFACTURING AND TEXTILE 

COMMUNITY ACCESS TO SHARING BUSINESS RELATIONS BOTH 

NATIONALLY AND INTERNATIONALLY. “IT WASN’T SOMETHING 

THAT I DREAMED UP”, SAYS PRESIDENT OF THE CFA, ILSE 

METCHEK. BY IVANNA WOODS 

In 1994, there was a crisis entitled the El Monte Contracted Crisis, which stemmed from the Department of 

Labor finding a contracting shop that sub-contracted for other contrators involved in indentured servitude for 

seven years. The building had barbed wires around it and all. It became a national story covered worldwide 

which lead Los Angeles to be given the name of ‘the sweatshop capital of the world’ at the time. Mayor Reardon 

then called a roundtable of stakeholders because he didn’t want LA known for this absurdity. 

At this time, Metchek was the Manager at the California Mart and was also a stakeholder. The unified decision of 

the investors was to create an association to handle issues such as this and there is no such association like the 

California Fashion Association anywhere else that is about the business of doing business. “It was decided that 

what we needed was an association and a spokesperson to show after investigations that this abhorrent situation 

was an anomaly,” she explains. When it came time to vote on who would be that spokesperson, it was a unanimous 

decision that Ilse Metchek would be that voice. 

The mayor’s office provided seed money if the CFA could match the donation to get the association off the ground. 

The stakeholders were able to match the $75,000 donation with only five phone calls. And thus, the California 


Fashion Association was born. They became the spokesperson for an industry with no 

public money - they do not lobby for funds. Twenty years have passed and the CFA have 

gone from handling labor issues to international issues to the business of the business of 

the fashion industry. “We’re kind of like traffic cops”, Metchek says. “We have all the banks, 

accountants, attorneys, media, and major companies as members of our association. We 

are the conduit for everyone to know what’s going on within the business.” 

So again, the CFA was born out of necessity and is ‘necessary to gather significant statistics, 

on-going data, and instigate cooperative efforts with city, state and federal officials 

investigating on behalf of the apparel and textile industry at large.’ Some of the bigger 

challenges of today are the regulations and restrictions that are only in California. 

When asked what are some of the driving forces of the fashion industry today, Fashion Tech 

is indefinately a huge player. “Fashion Tech is the driver of fashion right now,” Metchek says. 

“Patternmakers and CAD is key. You can’t get a job without knowing how to CAD. 85% of 

what we make in California is designed in corporate offices but made somewhere else. In 

order to make something somewhere else, you have to have very good technical packages, 

called the Tech Pack. Every seam, every inch has to be described to detail. 3D printing is a 

great retail tool that is used in two ways. In retailing, it’s used so that you can see the front, 

back and all sides of a product and in the fitting room where you can see how a garment 

moves.” 

WE ARE THE 

CONDUIT FOR 

EVERYONE TO 

KNOW WHAT’S 

GOING ON 

WITHIN THE 

BUSINESS. 

Regarding the development of west coast fashion, Metchek says that we are bigger than 

the east coast. “There are more people working in fashion and more companies than they 

have on the east coast. However, New York has the media and larger corporate equities. 

There are 6,000 companies in California - this is where trends happen without question. The 

entire world comes to California to find out what’s the next best thing. In New York, they 

go to work on what’s IN fashion currently, but for the futuristic vision of what is happening, 

they come to California.” Apparently, there are new companies popping up all the time in 

California - and the LA Fashion Market is the mecca. In fact, ‘there are approximately 48- 

50,000 more people employed in the fashion industry than in New York.’ 

THERE’S A 

DISCONNECT 

AT RUNWAY 

SHOWS. 

Simply put, the fashion industry in California is a leading force to be reckoned with. There are 

more Universities providing fashion design degrees and the like in California than any other 

state in the United States. Currently, there are nineteen design schools on the west coast - more 

than anywhere else in the world in such close proximity - and they are all under the umbrella as 

members of the California Fashion Association. Ilse Metchek’s advice is to fashion design graduates 

and aspiring / emerging designers is to learn the business first. “Get a job first”, she says. “Learn the 

business. Don’t immediately jump in as an entrepreneur. The one thing schools don’t teach is the 

business of fashion. They teach fashion, but not how to make money at it. Learn how to evaluate 

the process and build a brand that’s sustainable,” Metchek advises. 

There are so many designers that decide to invest enormous amounts of money on fashion 

shows, to which Metchek finds to be useless. “There is no return on investment. Any business 

that is putting up $200,000 for a fashion show isn’t guaranteed for buyers or any return on their 

investment. It’s friends and family. There’s a disconnect at runway shows. Unless you’re showing 

where buyers are and showing them designs to go into stores - it’s a boring fashion show for the 

media,” she states. Overarchingly, runway shows always showcase the most outrageous designs - 

made for grand entrance, not what winds up at Macy’s or Nordstrom. 

It was a wonderful surprise to hear Ilse recognize Fashion Xchange Magazine for doing something 

that other magazines are not. “There is no message coming directly out of California reporting on 

the business of fashion. Women’s Wear Daily doesn’t cover California other than the Hollywood 

scene. The Washington Post does not, nor the New York Times.” This resounding statement shows 

what an incredible niche market we at Fashion Xchange Magazine is enveloped in as a publication 

for emerging and established professionals that embody success in the fashion industry. 


Live 2 Love art 

David Reposar 

By Ivanna Woods 

Hair styling is in 

Oakland native David 

Reposar’s DNA - he 

was destined to 

land in this career. 

Reposar has lived in 

major metropolitans 

throughout the 

country; from Los 

Angeles, New York, to 

San Francisco, Reposar 

is the perfect storm 

of talent and business 

savvy. 

He beholds a solid corporate business 

background and trained at the 

acclaimed Vidal Sassoon Academy in 

Los Angeles, otherwise known as the 

boot camp of hairdressing. 

Like most artists, his passion for 

styling hair stems from childhood. “It 

all started when I was a small child - 

my British Mum had very fine blonde 

hair. She wore all sorts of hair pieces 

that she hid in the closet on heads that 

stared at me when I opened the door. 

I would sneak them out and style and 

arrange them. Why was I able to style 

them up much better than her own 

stylist I ask!” David exclaimed. “Then 

there we’re those moments when the 

drama kids from high school would 

come over and I would cut their hair 

in the garage, it was a no brainer that 

this would someday turn into a career. 

I very much enjoyed making others 

look and feel great about themselves, 

it’s a great confidence builder.” 

accomplishments as a hair stylist 

wasn’t an easy question for David to 

answer, being in the profession for 25 

years. “I can honestly say that I have 

done just about everything in the 

hair business you can imagine. From 

owning a successful salon, mentoring 

others, Online Virtual Makeover Artist 

for Cosmopolitan, On Tour with P&G 

endorsing Vidal Sassoon Products at 

the consumer level, styling backstage 

at NYFW, creating editorial campaigns, 

music video and television with Lady 

Gaga, Born This Way Ball World Tour 

- Lady Gaga, voted Best Hair Stylist 

of 2013 by the San Francisco Fashion 

Awards, and Hulu press junket NYC. 

I am now getting heavily involved 

in Art Direction, concepts and ideas, 

fashion styling, hair and makeup. I 

have a dream of building my team 

of artists and tribes that deliver the 

utmost inspiring imagery! So you 

see, I am not by any means a ONE 

NOTE ARTIST but rather a FULL 

ORCHESTRA! Because after all, my 


Some of David’s proudest 

David Reposar

tag line is Live2LoveArt (L2LA)” David 

proclaims. 

David Reposar is a talent that knows 

no bounds. “I like to think of myself 

as an above the curve trendsetter. I 

don’t follow trends, I set them. It’s a 

thing, a knack that I have.... Maybe it’s 

intuition, maybe it’s that I don’t fit in 

the the box. It’s important for me as an 

artist to put my own spin on things.... 

If you put too many restraints on me, 

and boundaries, the work becomes 

confined. I do my most brilliant work 

when I have no boundaries and I can 

make my ART! Everything disappears 

when I get to do my thing, time 

disappears, I get lost in the work.” he 

shares. 

Reposar expounds on how hair relates 

to personal style with, “Hair is a fiber, 

a texture, a fabric, it should be treated 

is to ‘know that you are getting into 

a career that requires you to be a 

caretaker, it is in our hearts and 

souls. If you are truly going to be a 

wonderfully successful stylist, you 

must do it because you love people. 

I casted a reality show once based 

on young aspiring hair stylists, and 

many wanted to get into the business 

because they wanted to do editorial 

and runway. It takes years of work, 

honing your craft, determination 

and learning the ropes. Study the 

masters, get a mentor and fasten your 

seatbelt!” he expresses. 

Some of the business goals in David’s 

future? “I am waiting on the green 

light to do a book on hair, so I am 

looking forward to building my 

presence in that space, because 

someday I wish to do a book on 

fashion. In the meantime my gift is 

doing my beautiful clients and styling 

gigs that are coming my way.” 

David Reposar is based out of North 

Beach and can find out more about 

him and book an appointment with 

him at 

Salon A7, 463 Union Street, San 

Francisco CA. 94133 415-603-2877 

davidreposarofficial.tumblr.com 

like a couture garment, sometimes 

it is forgotten and put low on the 

priority list. Someone might pay close 

attention to all the dressing details, 

like finding the right dress, shoe, 

handbag and lipstick, but completely 

ignore their hair. I do not understand 

this, your hair is your crowning glory, 

it is such an important part of who 

you are, how you represent yourself, 

how you carry yourself through 

the world, how you enter a room. A 

great hairstylist knows architecture, 

we study the face, the head shape, 

the bones....so many people live in 

fear of change, but if you could walk 

more confidently through the world, 

wouldn’t you be willing to try.” 

Advice he has for aspiring hair stylists 


in 

living 

color 

Written by Alexa Palacios 

The world of fashion design is a 

continuous cycle of inspiration, 

innovation and creativity. Life 

and all that comes with living 

often serves as the most organic 

source of the art and creativity 

that designers bare to the 

surrounding world. There is a 

certain connectivity and electric 

charge that these individuals 

breed during their creative 

processes, designer and creator 

extraordinaire Geetika Gupta, 

embodying that and more in 

her 20 plus years of lighting the 

industry up with her vibrancy and 

design aesthetic. 

Geetika Gupta hails from the capital of India, 

New Delhi, a country known for its intricacy in 

design, abundance of color, culture and beauty. 

Surrounded by an impenetrable family, Gupta 

was introduced to the world of design by her 

mother and grandmother through knitting and embroidery. 

“I learnt to knit and embroider by observing my 

mother and grandmother. Entertainment was limited when 

I was a child, and I sent a lot of my childhood drawing and 

painting and messing around with fabric, scissors and trims.” 

Maximizing her talents into a career was initially 

not a thought of Gupta’s. Following in the footsteps of her 

best friend senior year of High School, Gupta applied to the 

only design school in India that was highly competitive and 

was admitted. She began studying textile design and later 

transferred to design institution Nottingham Trent University 

in London. 

“Studying in India had taught me respect for the 

long and rich tradition of textiles and craft and studying in 

England developed my individual creativity and thought 

process.” 


Following her graduation from design school, 

Gupta’s entrance in the professional design field was 

seemingly one of destiny. She met a highly noted Indian 

couturier and during conversation with him, discovered 

he was searching for a design assistant; she began working 

with him the next week. 

The design studio was one based on the production 

of utter luxury, serving the likes of princesses 

and brides with luxe materials such as silk, lace and 

organza,with golden printing and pearl embroidery. 

Gupta immediately excelled in the position 

with much credits to her knitting and embroidery background 

from her mother, grandmother and scholastic 

career and soon began solely running the design studio. 

Capitalizing on her talents in the professional 

field and a boost in the demand for product and in the 

Indian economy, Gupta in partnership with her sister, 

opened a children’s clothing company. 

“Around this time, my sister had a baby and I 

noticed that very little was available in the market. I took 

my first step as an entrepreneur, starting a children’s 

clothing company with my sister. We called it “Space 

Baby” and started in our parent’s garage with one machinist.” 

As the “Space Baby” business rapidly grew due 

to high demand, Gupta and her sister were able to employ 

30 people after two years and sold their designs to 

elite stores in India. 

With the success in her personal career, Gupta 

decided to “pay it forward” with the next generation 

of young designers and now teaches in San Francisco 

at the Art Institute of California. Amongst having the 

talent, she relays to her students that, “she believes that 

you have to prepare yourself by developing your skills 

and knowledge.” 

“I have been fortunate to work in many diverse 

areas of the fashion industry and now working with you 

people entering the industry. It’s a privilege to see the 

next generation of fashion professionals and helping to 

hone their skills and point of view.” 

Being a part of the fashion industry as a whole 

for over 20 years, Gupta has been a prime witness of the 

growth and changes due to the surge of technology 

and believes it to be a gift, but also has much room for 

growth and development production and ethics-wise. 

“Fast fashion disrupted the fashion industry 

by revolutionizing the supply chain. But, I would like to 

see these companies doing more than making cheap 

clothing, destined for land fills.” 

Gupta finds thrills in the “maker-movement” 

and in conscious consumers who inquire about the production 

of the product they invest in, in its entirety. The 

constant change and transition in the industry and in 

products/trends distributed to the masses doesn’t leave 

much room or interest from the short-minded consumers 

we’ve become in true craftsmanship, which is the 

way of design in which Gupta has made her life’s work. 

As involved as ever in progressing the industry, 

along with her instructor duties, Gupta manages the 

Art Institute’s annual student fashion show along with 

noted show producer Michael Rosen and has developed 

this platform for students to display their talents to the 

masses, for the past few years. 

It seems as though breeding the next generation 

to experience the wealth of opportunity she has 

and pass on her craftsmanship techniques as well is a 

deeply rooted passion of Gupta’s. Keeping constantly 

inspired by being a self-proclaimed, “sensual person” 

who’s “deeply affected by color and texture” the basis of 

her experience in something that is a treasure to those 

who have the opportunity to experience it. 

Gupta states, ‘I’m constantly inspired by my students 

- their youthful energy, new ideas and changing 

style keep me fresh everyday!” 

Gupta’s journey will seemingly always be rooted in the 

vibrant colors she sees and breeds and the vigor she has 

for tradition and innovation simultaneously. Her experience 

is a treasure to the fashion market in San Francisco. 

Her parting advice for budding entrepreneurs 

in the industry is: “Dream big, but pay attention to the 

smallest detail. Play to your strengths, but know your 

weaknesses. You can’t do it alone, so get a team together.” 


unway 

renegade 

Alexandria von Bromssen 

Bolts of fabric flew. Sewing machines whirled. Eyes rolled. Backs 

were stabbed. Nobody said being on Project Runway was easy, 

but Season 12 alum Alexandria von Bromssen showed the world 

her work, made her mark, and is now looking to the future. 

By V. Alexandra de F. Szoenyi 


"I thought they were insane and really can't agree with them 

much," says von Bromssen about Project Runway judges Nina 

Garcia, Zac Posen and Heidi Klum. "Part of me wonders what 

they themselves were thinking as they said what was dictated 

to their little ear pieces. In real life, Heidi liked my stuff a lot, 

Nina did too, and (mentor) Tim Gunn said he never worried 

about me at all. As for Zac Posen, well, I really can't recall a 

word he said. I can listen but I really do trust my judgement." 

Alexandria's judgement on the show led to her 

almost win it all, coming in as runner-up, with edgy 

asymmetrical tops, perforated leather shorts and relaxed 

cropped pants. In fact, "edgy, modern and perfectly tailored" 

are words she uses to describe her design aesthetic. Asked to 

explain her mission statement, Alexandria uses words like 

timeless, empowering, armor and urban warrior princess. She 

mentions Lauren Bacall in the same breath as the characters 

of Bladerunner. She says her art "taps into a darker realm of 

humanity, statements only to be worn by those who dare to 

embrace their own inner beauty." 

Belgium, and it's most famous avant-garde 

designers-- the Antwerp 6-- proved to be a major design 

inspiration. "When I was getting my Masters, I flew to Europe 

and rented a car and drove north to Belgium from France and 

hung out in Antwerp for a bit. I got to see where Antwerp 

6 created amazing clothing. I went to their schools, their 

shops and roamed their streets. I was genuinely inspired by 

them and their surroundings, above all their ideology. They 

somehow made it ok to be really crazy. Crazy and cool should 

coexist. Limitations suck." 

Avant-garde is something von Bromssen embraces, 

albeit in a less obvious way. "My take on the avant grade 

through my designs I feel is the direction of the construction, 

design lines, silhouette and overall attitude conveyed to 

represent an edge and modern approach to fashion," says the 

San Mateo, California resident. "There is a timelessness to 

my pieces, like you can wear what I created seven years ago 

and it still looks cool. I think that an Avant-grade approach 

to design extends the length of it's modernity." A trend the 

designer sees as being avant-garde now is the current focus on 

androgyny. "I think it's cool." 

A place not synonymous with avant-garde perhaps 

is the Bay Area, but it is artistic, and seems to be a place that 

allows Von Bromssen to thrive. "The Bay Area has a lot going 

on and a very strong underground indie fashion scene, so 

there is an outlet," she states. "Although the proper outlet has 

yet to really present itself, one that actually creates a forum for 

the designers to expand themselves upon, the indie scene is 

prominent. It's like the Wild West. People just go for it here." 

However, she is reminded of the area's limitations. 

"On the opposite spectrum, I am bored to death here 

and use that time to create." Currently, San Mateo is 

where von Bromssen has her Red Square Boutique (www. 

redsquareboutique.bigcartel.com) as well as Camp Couture 

(www.thecampcouture.com), a fashion and sewing school for 

all ages. 

More avant-garde places sometimes beckon. "Paris 

does sound far more intriguing than here a lot of the time, like 


wearing six inch wedges wouldn't freak people out in Paris. 

It's expected. I wish that people would understand that 

ideology here. So I aim to be an influencer and lead those 

that need a direction. The Bay Area is really great. It's just 

high time to burn the yoga pants." 

Eschewing mass producing 

to either make her garments herself 

or have them locally made, von 

Bromssen is still going full steam 

ahead with her business. Alexandria 

von Bromssen Designs will venture 

into menswear, knitwear, and 

accessories. "I showed my menswear 

and womenswear this past February 

14 at LoveSick, a fashion show I 

produce. I invite local designers 

together to make a fun fashionable 

night. It's an awesome event and I do 

my best to create a forum for us locals 

to show. I have a charity fashion show 

this spring through an organization called Parka. 

HouseofAVB.com, my online store, will launch 

on Valentines Day as well. I guess that is what I have been 

up to and all the little creations on that page. I will be 

uploading new things to the site all the time and it's all 

limited in quantity. Camp Couture will now be in multiple 

cities.The expansion has begun! I am thrilled about this." 

Alexandria von Bromssen may 

have been on TV, but she doesn't 

want that to define her or her work. 

"I was awesome before and my best 

is yet to come. I have a lot of say. I 

have mad passion for this life I have 

created and it's a really cool part I 

get to play." For those looking to 

follow in her fashion footsteps? "You 

have to love what you do, because 

it is hard and if shit doesn't pan out 

that way we all think it should or 

would, at least you have your love 

of the art itself. Also, be good, like 

know your medium well. Be critical 

of your work, refine your artistic eye, 

and then, create your reality. I did." 


lluvy gomez 

Beyond America’s 

Next Top Model 

WRITTEN BY IVANNA WOODS 

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERT SILVER 


BEING ON A REALITY 

TELEVISION SHOW AS 

TRANSFORMATIVE 

TO ONE’S CAREER 

AS AMERICA’S NEXT 

TOP MODEL MAY 

CATAPULT OR CURB A 

MODEL’S CAREER - AND 

LLUVY GOMEZ WAS 

DETERMINED TO MAKE 

HER INDELIBLE MARK IN 

THE INDUSTRY. 

Born in Mexico City, Gomez 

moved to San Francisco 

at three years old and 

began modeling at 12. Her 

first modeling gig was for 

Aveda in San Francisco and continued to 

model until she was accepted on ANTM 

Cycle 4 when she was 20. 

Although Lluvy did not take 

home the ‘grand prize’, without a doubt 

did she take home some amazing 

insight from the fashion moguls that 

were her the creative directors, photographers, 

makeup artists and of course, 

from Ms. Tyra Banks. She can still hear 

their voices in her head; with Janice 

Dickinson exclaiming: ‘Any experience is 

good experience. Fake it ‘til you make it!’ 

Tyra counseling: ‘Practice, in the mirror!! 

A lot!!’ and Nigel Barker recommending: 

‘Always find your light’. These are great 

tips provided from some of the top 

moguls in the industry - true gems of 

fashion knowledge. 

When asked about how 

America’s Next Top Model affected her 

career, Gomez shares: “Honestly, in the 

beginning it was a bit of a hindrance, 

agencies wanted to put is in their 

celebrity division. Reality TV was still 

somewhat new when I was on ANTM. 

Now, I believe it has given my career 

more longevity. And I love all the fans of 

ANTM. It’s amazing how many times a 

month I still get recognized!” 

Beyond Top Model, one of her 

goals as a model has been to be able 

to express herself creatively through 

her work, an accomplishment she met 

while on ANTM and beyond - one of her 

proudest accomplishments! “Modeling 

on the Tyra Show for Beyoncé’s House of 

Dereon was fun! I always feel honored to 

walk for my friend and designer Richard 

Hallmarq from Project Runway. Having 

the pleasure to model with my children 

has been amazing too!”, Gomez shares. 

Advice she has for aspiring models? 

“Go for your dreams!! But also do your 

homework and know that it’s going to 

take thick skin and hard work. Know 

your angles, and study your face/body 

in the mirror.” 

Some of her fashion goals 

for the future include revamping her 

jewelry line she started a couple years 

back and had to put it on hold. “I would 

love to get that up and going this year 

again. Also, I would love to incorporate 

Creative Director, Ivanna Woods 

Hair, Timberly Gwan Kerby 

Makeup, Naomi Azure 

a mommy and me line too.” Lluvy has a 

great platform to stand on to take her 

in any direction her heart desires in the 

fashion industry and a wealth of knowledge 

from life experience as a model - a 

great standpoint to have when taking 

your career to the next level as she is 

doing. 

Readers can find out more 

about Lluvy Gomez and her work on 

social media on Facebook.com/lluvygomez 

and Instagram at Instagram.com/ 

lluvy 


Whimsical harlequin inspired gown made of tie 

scraps. bits of lambswool and Victorian jet beads. 

A one of a kind design created by Janay Rose, The 

Window Lady. 

She can still hear their voices in her head; with 

Janice Dickinson exclaiming: ‘Any experience is good 

experience. Fake it ‘til you make it!’ Tyra counseling: 

‘Practice, in the mirror!! A lot!!’ and Nigel Barker 

recommending: ‘Always find your light’. 


Vintage jacket, feathered hat, socks 

and men’s vintage shoes. Sleeve 

collar, ruffle bustle skirt made from 

neckties, lace and critter. 


Makeup, Naomi Azure 


Magazine gown, designed by 

Christina Morgan Cree 


Makeup, Jacey Sheets 


Tulip gown, designed by Christina 

Morgan Cree. 




Wild Souls dress designed by 

Mariya Milovidova 





oc 

rio designs 

Photographed by Robert Silver 

Hair & Make Up by Nicolette LaFranchi 

LE RICKIE DELIVERS A TOUCH OF CLASS 

& ELEGANCE WITH A MODERN EDGE. HIS 

READY TO WEAR COLLECTION DISPLAYS 

A REBELIOUS NATURE FOR ANYONE 

LOOKING TO BE DARING IN BLACK. 

RocRio little black dress. 

Satin Shantung Crepe 

plunging vneck combined with 

black faux fur skirt Retail: $125.09 



RocRio Men’s black faux leather 

side zip frock vest. Retail: $75 . 

Black sketch cotton skinny pant $55

RocRio High waist denim 

drop crotch pant . Retail. $95. 

Black sleeveless button up shirt $60 



RocRio High Collar Men’s vest : Retail $150. 

Purple button up long sleeve shirt $65. 

Denim harem Capri pant $70 


on the cutting edge 

Ken Chen is a Taipei, Taiwan native. He describes Taipei, Taiwan as an 

island in the center of Asia that has amazing cultural diversity. Ken 

Chen shares his connection with his hometown saying, “Growing up 

I was very excited and inspired by the cutting edge technology that 

has been incorporated into the city but there is also untouched, almost 

fantasy-like, natural sights. It’s very condensed so there’s a huge 

focus on efficiency that I think I really absorbed into my lifestyle.“ 

By Bria Anderson 

Ken Chen shares his connection with 

his hometown saying, “Growing up 

I was very excited and inspired by 

the cutting edge technology that has been 

incorporated into the city but there is also 

untouched, almost fantasy-like, natural sights. 

It’s very condensed so there’s a huge focus on 

efficiency that I think I really absorbed into 

my lifestyle.“When Ken Chen was growing up, 

his grandmother introduced fashion to him. 

He shared, “She was always very stylish and 

saw that I also had a sense of style even as a 

young boy. She taught me the importance 

of simplicity and quality as well. Then I was 

wearing Saint Laurent but the luxury was 

not impressed upon me as much as the 

craftsmanship and details.” 

He also shared that the main force behind his 

brand KENCHEN is impatience. As far as the 

development of the brand he said, “I knew 

how I wanted to present it and I felt very 

strongly about the standards and aesthetics 

of a small luxury brand so I just started very 

simply. Step by step as I learned more about 

the fashion business it grew. In a lot of ways 

owning a company helped prepare me for 

school projects rather than the other way 

around.” Ken Chen is inspired by the general 


inspiration that comes to him in every event, 

no matter how small. As far as inspiration, 

he also expresses that it is a matter of paying 

attention to the details and those fine 

elements that make things work together 

so well. When creating the collections at 

KENCHEN, seeing the initial concept come to 

life is his most rewarding part of the process. 

He shared his enjoyment saying, “When I sit 

back and see the piece as a garment and not 

all the effort that went into it. After all, that 

is why I feel the need to design: to take these 

things I image out of my head and find a 

way to put them together. As you get more 

efficient at the process you start to wonder 

what else you can take out of your head.” 

Ken Chen loves functionality and making 

beautiful things simple. He feels that, 

“Sometimes you need to take extra steps to 

simplify the final product but the end result 

is the moment when you can take a breath 

and see it not as “yours” but just as something 

that exists.” His favorite piece from his recent 

collection is the Euclid coat. When receiving 

his first sale, Ken Chen described the moment 

as a feeling of validation! Ken Chen would 

love to have his pieces sold at Neiman Marcus 

due to his consistently great experiences 

[continued on pg. 43]



[continued from page 40] 

there. In the future he sees himself relocating his brand KENCHEN back to NYC to build the business 

further. During the journey of developing as a designer, Ken Chen remembers that you must believe in 

yourself no matter what and be confident first. Second, don’t over-think things and never stop. Third, 

that the moments you have while building and constantly working is important for growth. Lastly, he 

remembers that whenever there is a chance, just go for it and when there is a vision, make it a reality. As 

far as the world of the fashion as a whole, he loves the constant change, risk, and challenge. We must 

stay tuned to the new collection from Ken Chen as it caters towards boutiques through out the country 

and beyond rather then the KENCHEN stores alone. 




(current page) Janay Rose - 

Vintage jacket; feather hat; socks and men’s 

vintage shoes. Sleeve collar, ruffle bustle 

skirt made from neck ties, lace and critter by 

Janay Rose 

(popposite page) The Window Lady Neck 

collar made from a jacket sleeve faux 

leopard fur and handmade antique lace. 

One of a kind design all recycled and seems 

by Janay Rose $45 


Janay Rose 

Pieces of a Masterpiece 

If you’ve ever interrupted your routine power walk to work or daily errand running to stop and 

admire an enticing, unorthodox, and creative shop window, you may have already met Bay 

Area legend, Janay Rose! Written by Rachel Riot | Photographed by Robert Silver 

Janay, also 

known as 

“The Window 

Lady”, is a 

true master 

of her craft, and 

acquired her title 

during her 19 year 

career as a window 

dresser around the 

Bay Area. She hand 

crafted eye catching 

displays for local 

shops including 

Mar’s in Berkley, 

Sparky’s Trading Co., 

Held Over, and all 

the Wasteland stores 

in Los Angeles and San Francisco. No two windows were ever 

the same, and because she never incorporated text to explain 

her vision, it was up to the curious onlookers to interpret 

the scene. Her windows were notable for their historical 

and social influences, subtle humor, and the unique use and 

re-use of props and mannequins to ensure a completely 

different visual story each time. Her artistic process as a 

window dresser has gracefully spilled over in to the creation 

of her clothing line. Over the last 12 years, she has been hand 

crafting one-of-a-kind clothing and accessories, and just like 

her windows, no two garments are ever the same. Each piece 

is beautifully hand tailored and detailed to perfection with 

echoes of inspiration from vintage eras of costume. 

As a strong advocate for recycling, the only new 

material Janay uses to create each piece is the thread! She 

upcycles and repurposes vintage clothing, antique quilts, 

handmade lace, neckties, doilies, and pretty much anything 

you can think of. She sincerely finds the treasure in what 

society has labeled as trash. Her idea of tidying up her 

sewing room is to tediously stitch every tiny scrap of fabric 

on the floor together to create one of her signature and 

very intricate patchwork dresses! She has built such a strong 

following among the community, that many of her clients 

and fellow artists donate fabric and old clothing to her. 

“People bring me materials all the time for free or 

trade. They have 

seen what I can 

do with a pile of 

scrap and send 

wonderful things 

my way! I feel 

very lucky.” 

Even 

her eccentric 

workspace 

illustrates her 

dedication to 

repurposing 

and recycling 

used items. She 

bounces back and 

forth between 

a whimsical 

workspace that acts as a sanctuary to her homemade 

boat, travelling shop, and extensive collection of gorgeous 

antiques, and her relaxing home tucked away in the woods. 

Her world is a beautiful place in which nothing ever goes to 

waste! I was fortunate enough to have a chance to explore 

the amazing travelling shop she created inside an old school 

bus, and get a glimpse in to her incredible kingdom of 

upcycled treasures. All of the furniture and fixtures that I 

“People bring me materials all 

the time for free or trade. They 

have seen what I can do with a 

pile of scrap and send wonderful 

things my way! I feel very lucky.” 

could see were antiques, and on the rare occasion that an 

item happened to be store bought, it was a vintage item. 

Since we live in a society that worships fast, cheap, 

mass produced fashion, Janay’s price point is often brushed 

away as “too expensive”, but her pricing is extremely 

reasonable considering the tedious and intricate work that 

goes in to hand crafting each garment. Her hats, collars, and 


vests are her quicker items, and average about an hour each to cut and sew, however, these pieces are still extremely unique 

and unlike anything you’ll ever find in a store. Her more elaborate clothing pieces can take up to a week of sewing 10 hours 

a day. The most extravagant dress she ever made took a week and a half to finish, and sold for $950.00. That seems like a 

lot of money until you look at the price range of the not-so-handmade and definitely not one-of-a-kind designer fashion 

that decorates the streets of New York and L.A. Janay is very passionate about her work, and wants her wearable art to be 

affordable for the average person. 

“It’s a labor of love,” she explains, “sometimes I just have to put the beautiful garments out into the world no matter 

what hourly wage I end up making.” 

Whether you are young or old, goths, bohemians, punks or nerds, Janay welcomes people from all different walks of 

life to rock her designs! She sees her style as a state of mind, and does not pin point a specific demographic. She creates her 

clothing for people who will love and appreciate it no matter what their age or background is. Her inspiration branches from 

her experience working in costumes and the unique materials she finds. She purposely avoids fashion trends on TV or in 

magazines and believes in creating what she loves rather than what’s popular. Due to the historical influence of her clothing, 

her line is usually mistakenly labeled as “Steampunk”, but in a sea of mass produced and overdone mainstream Steampunk 

trends, she prefers to separate her work with the much more appropriate description of “Avante Garde”. Her pieces are hardly 

ever sewn from patterns, and she strives to stay open minded and spontaneous while she designs unless she has a very 

specific vision of the garment she’s creating. Her line truly offers something for everyone, and she even styles a lot of her 

pieces to be androgynous to welcome and celebrate even more diversity among her patrons. 

Janay lives by a beautiful and simple way of life that should be adopted by the whole world. 

“Whatever comes is a blessing and my mind is open.” She stated, and went on to explain that even though she 

may not “make it big” as a designer, the value of hand crafting and keeping a personal connection with each of her pieces 

outweighs the possibility of fame. “My hands sew each piece, and each one is one-of-a-kind.” 

She keeps the expectations of herself and her business low, and rather than setting her future plans in stone, she 

appreciates every blessing the universe sends her way equally and goes with the flow. One thing she is absolutely sure of 

is that she will never stop sewing. As a child she often dreamt about 

creating beautiful theme room motels like the famous Madonna Inn, and 

hopes to obtain that goal by age 70. If you’ve seen the genius of what 

this extraordinary woman can create with the confined space of a shop 

window or a jumbled pile of discarded scraps, it’s hard to not get overly 

excited about the magnificent and endless possibilities she’ll have with 

an entire motel! 

Janay inspires the world with her artistry and her sustainable 

way of life. While others carelessly toss everyday items into the trash, 

she is rapidly thinking up different ways to breathe new life into each 

discarded pile and create something beautiful and useful with it. Her 

humble soul shines through each of her creations. She appreciates the 

world just as it is, and surrounds herself with nature to infuse her artwork 

with organic elements. Every tiny scrap of fabric that she pieces together 

represents her philosophy that all of life’s little moments will fall in to 

place, and that everything happens for a reason. Each one-of-a-kind 

piece she sews illustrates the way she takes her time to enjoy every life 

experience to the fullest. If humanity spent even a fraction of the time 

and energy that Janay spends recycling and repurposing the trash of the 

world, waste would virtually be a thing of the past! 

To see more of Janay’s stunning work, visit her Facebook page at 

www.facebook.com/TheWindowLady and shop her Etsy store at www. 

etsy.com/shop/thewindowlady. She can also be found at many Bay Area 

events including the flea market she hosts every first Saturday of the 

month at her awesome workspace at the 5th Avenue Marina located 

at 499 Embarcadero Street in Oakland. Handmade couture fashion is a 

dying art! Visit Janay to support local and independent design, and also 

to experience seeing her breathtaking pieces up close and personal! 

Janay Rose - the window lady hooded capelet made 

from 1840's overshot coverlet blanket from 1840's, 

1940's Japanese indigo denim and recycled rabbit 

fur. The window lady one of a kind hand stitched all 

recycled doily dress (worn under skirt). $360 Hat by 

Jaco Drift Stitcher by Jaco 


Creative Director, Ivanna Woods 


Makeup, Naomi Azure

“It’s a labor of love,” 

she explains, “sometimes 

I just have to put 

the beautiful garments 

out into the world no 

matter what hourly 

wage I end up making.” 

The window lady bustle: 

made out of recycled 

neckties, crochet doilies, fur 

bits. One of a kind design 

worn like a belt. All sewn by 

the hands of Janay Rose 


ONE OF A KIND COUTURE 

Photography by Robert Silver 

Make Up by Adrianna Reloba 

Hair by Timberly Kerby 


Christina Morgan Cree - "Plastic 

Lace"- Gown of recycled plastic 

soda can rings. Choker, bracelet and 

earrings of recycled metal can tabs. 

www.cmcdesignsco.com 



Christina Morgan Cree 

“The Paillette Dress” 

www.cmcdesignsco.com 


About A Woman 

Anastasia Bachykala 

Anastasia Bachykala, originally from Belarus, identifies herself as a 

fashion illustrator and designer with a fine art background. Based on 

her work and her background, I’d say, she is fashion, she is art and 

she most definitely is a force to be reckoned with. 

by Christina Mitchell-Lesser | Art Illustration by Anastasia Bachykala 


Art by Anastasia Bachykala entitled, “Wild”

She IS FASHION 

SHE IS ART 

The first thing that comes to mind with 

Anastasia and her artwork is timeless 

beauty. With innovative drawings that 

provoke thought and an appreciation 

for detail. “Plus, in art there is no formula 

of success to teach, one plus one can be 

anything but two,” Anastasia said. You see, not 

only is her work beautiful but some would say 

her views on art run deeper than the average 

mind can conceive. She really just takes you 

there. When asked how Anastasia got started in 

Fashion Illustration, here’s what she said, “Since 

early childhood, I was addicted to watching 

and collecting fashion images. At the age of 14 I 

modeled for the first time. By the time I was 21 I 

started doing art direction by producing fashion 

photo and video shoots. In 2014 I became more 

interested in fashion illustration because it goes 

beyond realism of photography and unlimited 

possibilities.” This is quite the resume for Ms. 

Anastasia and it’s only the tip of the iceberg. 

Although, Anastasia had not previously 

drawn before, her creations would leave you 

thinking she had been drawing for years. But, 

she felt something was missing, so she spoke 

with her mentor, art director (who she deems 

her “art father”), Roland Young, teacher at the 

Academy of Art University in San Francisco. 

Roland recommended that she draw from live 

models and learn anatomy. “That was it. Since 

September of 2014, I took a charcoal in my hand 

and a whole new world opened up for me. I 

found a whole new meaning to life,” Anastasia 

said. From then on, she studied graphic design, 

typography, photography, advertising, fashion 

and eventually drawing. How inspiring is this?! 

It just goes to show you that putting your mind, 

body and soul into your craft can create a space 

where you live out your dreams! Simply, untouchable! 

Currently, Anastasia studies at City 

College of San Francisco and in bay area studios. 

Anastasia said, “I also study a lot on my own. I 

believe that self-education is the only way to 

absorb knowledge in any field, even while 

Art by Anastasia Bachykala entitled, “Line” 

attending school. And, when you’re out there in the real world, all clients 

really care about is your work and style.” I’d say that’s pretty real 

and to the point, don’t you think? This is my kind of girl! It’s like saying, 

I know my craft inside and out, I have amazing work ethic and my 

style will keep you coming back for more! When asked, what things or 

people give her inspiration, Anastasia shared that she is most definitely 

inspired by her mentor and “art father,” Roland Young, who can 

make any artwork look its best. For fine art work, she is equally influenced 

by fine artists, photographers and some illustrators. Her fashion 

illustration influencers are: Albers, Picasso, Matisse and Giacometti. 

Irving Penn and Richard Avedon are her favorite photographers. For 

fashion illustrators, she is inspired by Rene Bouche, Rene Gruau and 


Art by Anastasia Bachykala entitled, “Makeup” 

David Downton. And, it was no surprise that Anastasia, a 

deep rooted artist, attends museums, art exhibits, events 

and dance performances to inspire her in her craft – Fashion 

Illustration and beyond! 

To add to Anastasia’s view and love of all things 

art, she says, she wants to marry fashion and fine art in 

her work. She breaks free of tradition and boundaries by 

creating art that has a history yet speaks to a modern crowd 

of innovators. Anastasia feels that people are so used to 

graphics and commercial illustrations without ever going to 

places like a museum to incorporate their art vision. “In my 

work, I try to deal with complex human form simply and directly 

so I can complete all the thinking, and the viewer can 

just feel the essence of the subject,” Anastasia said. Anastasia 

offers the following advice to anyone who is an aspiring 

fashion illustrator trying to break into the industry:“Remove 

average understanding, don’t join the crowd, don’t hide 

what you like and cancel weekends,” she said. 

In 2015, those in the fashion industry and the likes 

can look forward to Anastasia putting on events where 

guest of the evening can get their portrait drawn, fashion 

illustration style. She is also excited to be doing art direction 

for fashion photo shoots, possibly teaching workshops 

and producing short films. Collaborations are in place with 

Buro247, a popular fashion and art news website by fashion 

leader, Mira Duma. Both are planning to expand their work, 

together. 

There are lots of exciting things happening in the 

fashion industry. I like to say, it’s like a huge staircase - you 

sometimes have difficulty climbing, but you climb it anyway. 

Because fashion and design is always changing and 

so is your style, and your style is your way of expression. 

Therefore, fashion for many, is freedom! 

Art by Anastasia Bachykala entitled, “Khrystyana” & “Trust” (lower right) 


We represent 

the brands 

that embody 

advertise now 

success! 

gain exposure 

15% off 

Offer only for first-time buyers 

510-904-7899 

ads@fashionxchangemag.com 

www.fashionxchangemag.com 

FReeWeb & Digital 

with Print Ad orders 

Fashion Xchange Magazine is a fashion industry trade magazine. As a resource for emerging & established professionals we advocate the brands, events 

& professionals that embodies the success of the fashion industry. Beyond mere product placement, with a goal of delivering informative content, we’re 

focused on giving in-depth reporting & analysis of the ever changing fashion industry trends. We enlighten our readers with the necessary tips & advice 

on how to create and maintain a sustainable career in the industry. Whether you’re a model, fashion designer, photographer, student or a fan of fashion, 

Fashion Xchange Magazine allows our readers to gain knowledge often only revealed behind closed doors. 

Fashion Xchange Magazine 

All Fashion. All Business. No Gossip. 


plague: 

best 

emerging 

designer 

Maricella 

Olague 

Her petite frame is clad in a minimal head-to-toe black ensemble, 

clothing designed to take a backseat to the eye-catching drama 

of the assorted accessories. A chin-length bright green bob with 

blunt-cut bangs is topped with an oversized black velvet bowadorned 

headband featuring an oversized silver skull. Colorful 

crystals decorate her forehead, catching the overhead lights as she 

moves. Bold, sweeping black liquid liner gives her large, luminous 

eyes an intriguing feline quality. Crimson lips stretch into a smile 

as she raises the palm-sized, rectangular Best Emerging Designer 

award while the crowd goes wild around her. 

BY CAITY SHREVE 


PHOTO BY PETE HOPKINS 


This was the scene at the recent San Francisco Fashion 

Awards as Maricella Olague took home the coveted 

new-designer-on-the-block honor. Getting to this point 

wasn’t an easy or straight path for the designer though, and 

like any milestone worth achieving, this award was earned 

through hard work, dedication, and serious creative drive. 

After realizing her desire to pursue a career in fashion, 

Maricella left UCSC and moved to San Francisco to study first 

at FIDM, and then at the Academy of Art University, from 

where she’ll graduate with a second degree in Spring 2016. 

I’ve had the honor of watching Maricella’s creative 

development from the sidelines since San Francisco Fashion 

Week in September 2013 where she sent feathers, 

leather, and lace down the runway. There was a high-collared 

feathered cape with a black satin bow closure that sent me 

straight backstage to introduce myself as soon as the show’s 

final model disappeared behind the curtain. 

Dresses and outerwear have made up the bulk of the recent 

Olague collections, though the S/S 2015 collection, entitled 

Plague, which she showed at the San Francisco Fashion 

Awards ceremony in January, featured headwear as well. 

Plague, as its name aptly suggests, is a dark, deeply 

dramatic collection of pieces that truly showcases the 

designer’s ability to combine materials and fabrics with 

outstanding results. Black leather fringe decorated cropped 

capes and high-necked bodycon dresses done in swirling 

blue and purple prints. A particularly memorable dress 

was wrought in a close-cropped shimmery green metallic 

fabric that brought to mind a futuristic aquatic deity as the 

golden-tressed model slunk down the catwalk. Broad, flattopped 

black fringed hats straight from a Renaissance minstrel’s 

ballad were the perfect punctuation, simultaneously 

highlighting and grounding the intensity of the fearless 

designs. 

After the celebration of her win, Fashion Xchange sat down 

with the optimistic and cheerful designer to chat about her 

future in the fashion industry, personal style, and her 

signature beauty look. 

FX: You recently won the Best Emerging Designer award 

at the San Francisco Fashion Awards and showcased your 

new 

collection – What was the best part of the evening for 

you? 

O: Being at the awards show was an awesome reunion to 

wrap up the year. Between showcasing my S/S 2015 Plague 

collection and hanging out with friends & supporters, 

winning Best Emerging Designer came as a huge surprise! It 

was unbelievable. I remember frantically trying to get all my 

models dressed for the lineup and then all of a sudden 

hearing my name being called. I had no clue I even had a 

chance with all of the other talents in the running. It was 

a humbling experience, and the amount of love I got was 

something that made the night absolutely perfect. Thank 

you to everyone who came out and those who voted! 

FX: 2014 was a big year for the Olague brand – What is 

your top goal for 2015? 

Photo of model Nicole Bonifacio wearing a cape & 

dress designed by Maricella Olague taken by Robert 

Silver; hair & makeup by Nicolette LaFranchi 

O: I'm stoked for 2015. My main goal is to OFFICIALLY launch 

my label, Olague, by the end of the year, and build it here 

in San Francisco before moving my business to New York 

in 2016 when I finish school. This coming August I'll be in 

Tokyo, mostly for pleasure, but I’m planning to make time to 

meet with local manufacturers as well. 

FX: What runway shows and events are you hoping to 

participate in during 2015? 

O: I've been approached to showcase at Mercedes Benz 

Fashion Week in New York this Fall which would be a dream 

come true. I've also been asked to show at Mercedes Benz 


Runway Photos by Robert Silver 

Fashion Week in Houston, and if I can secure the necessary 

financing, I’d love to participate in both! 2015 is 

going to be my year of travel so I'm hoping to be all over 

the place while also doing what I love. 

FX: Your collections have featured everything from 

vintage fabrics to dramatic colors to eye-catching 

fringe & textures. If you had to describe your brand’s 

aesthetic in five words, what would they be? 

O: Exotic. Avant-garde. Utilitarian. Bold. Powerful. 

FX: Who is the Olague the woman? 

FX: Always on par with your fashion game is your 

beauty game – What are you favorite brands? Any 

beauty 

products that you can’t live without? 

O: Alexander McQueen forever. Pretty lip shades and 

waterproof liquid eyeliner are my staples. 

We here at Fashion Xchange are excited to introduce this 

new talent to our amazing readers and can’t wait to see 

what comes next for this creative powerhouse. Stay tuned 

for our Fashion Week coverage in 2015 and maybe you’ll 

see more Olague! 

O: She is part feline, and part woman. A warrior. A fierce 

thing to behold. She dresses with a purpose - To be 

confident in her own skin. 

FX: Your personal style has become a San Francisco 

institution. Between your boldly colored hair, whimsical 

ears, headbands, hats & hair accessories, and killer 

make-up, you always make an entrance. How has 

your personal style evolved over the years? Have you 

always been one to stand out from the crowd? 

O: Play dress up. Play with makeup. Crank-up that music 

and take selfies. I do this all the time and did it all the time 

when I was young. I have a deep love for drama, theater, 

and people. I am always inspired by people. 

I don't try to dress to impress, instead I choose to be 

happy and confident and comfortable at all times. If 

that means dressing up pretty and chic or shaggy and 

comfortable then so be it. I don't like to try hard to meet 

someone else’s status quo. I like to have my freedom in 

dress. 

Maricella Wins 2014 Best Emerging Designer, San 

Fracnisco Fashion Awards 


ONCE 

UPON 

A 

RUNWAY 


WITH 

PARISHARRIS 

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DERRICK RODGERS

Reyanne Densing wearing 

Paris Harris White Cage Corset $950 

(opposite page) 

Nicholas McInerny wearing Paris 

Harris Black Bird Cage Top $708 

Black Phonetic Mail Knight outfit 

$777 

makeup ALEX DEJDAROVA 

hair KENNY BOHORQUEZ 


wearing Paris Harris 

Black Bird Cage Top $708 




Hamed Roshan wearing 

Paris Harris 

Bird cage shorts $5000 




wearing Red London 

Scream Jacket $670 




Reyanne Densing wearing The Wait 

A Minutes Black and White What 

Spike dress $751 




DORK 

DOZIER 

Letting His Inner Dork Shine 

Written by Ivanna Woods 

Photos by Charles Sedghi 

David Norris "Dork" Dozier, 

primarily known as Dork Dozier 

is renaissance man of many 

talents. He is an artist, a musician, 

a dreamer, and a fashion 

innovator. From designing his own label at 

an early age to working as Will.I.Am’s Creative 

Consultant, Dozier is without a doubt 

the man to watch. “Fashion is my lifestyle 

and music is my therapy. I was born and 

raised in South Central Los Angeles where 

I learned to love my creative being and 

exercise all of my creative gifts. I went to 

school for fashion for less than a semester 

and basically learned how to thread the 

machine and went on with my adventure. 

Previous to that, I taught myself how to 

sew by hand in high school” he says. 

When Mr. Dozier was 16 years young, he 

had his first encounter with a bow tie 

when vintage shopping. Being from South 

Central, he was the only teen in the area 

in 2006 wearing bow ties and he loved 

setting himself apart. With Dork being the 

trailblazer that he is, he sought out unique 

bow ties which proved to be very difficult, 

leading him to taking one apart and 

putting it back together in his own fashion. 

He devised his own way of creating bow 

ties with his own funky personal style 

and eventually started selling them to his 

friends. At 19, he started making his own 

living from selling bow ties and became known as “Dork, the Bow Tie Guy”. 

At 20, he wisened up, got his business registered and started professionally 

selling bow ties from a suitcase and his website. For the next two years, Dork 

traveled the world with the leader of one of the biggest pop groups The Black 

Eyed Peas’ Will.I.Am as his Creative Consultant and bow tie designer. Now at 

25, he’s focusing on joining his fashion and music career as one. 

Dozier defines taBB Bow Ties as a ‘niche, high end, unique bespoke 

line of many styles. “Whatever you can imagine with a bow, I can make it. 

-think a Bit BIGGER” he says. “When I started my journey designing, I wasn’t 

thinking about the market and I probably never will think about the market. 

There will always be room for a line as unique and genuine as my line, or 

anything I ever come out with because it will always be timeless and from the 

heart.” 


MAN OF 

MANY STYLES 

There’s sort of a renaissance 

of menswear present in the 

fashion industry that’s long 

overdue, and men are taking 

grooming and dressing 

dapper much more seriously these 

days. To this, Dozier says that ‘one of 

my goals has always been to get men 

to dress like men again. Coming from 

South Central LA, I’ve been a part of 

and seen it first hand with the trends 

of sagging pants and big clothes in the 

early 90’s and now men are going into a 

tighter fit of clothing. The next trend is 

to have all men serious about tailoring 

their clothes to fit not too big and not 

too small but just right. Men have been 

searching for a while, but it’s coming 

together. It’s done very well in Europe. 

Americans are definitely catching on 

as we are really the trendsetters of 

the world, which is ironic. Dressing up 

properly is not about ego and covering 

up insecurities with clothing, or about 

putting clothes on that just fit or look 

good. It’s more of a lifestyle that I’m 

poking at. It’s about men focusing on 

being Gentlemen, Kings, and representing 

what you would imagine a 

God under God’s image would dress 

like on earth. At the end of the day it’s 

all about being more God-like and less 

human-like. Leadership wins over all.” 


Some of Dork’s fashion career goals for the 

future in a nutshell are, ‘speaking for two 

different worlds which is the fairytale, 

unrealistic, imaginary fashion and entertainment 

world that I love and speaking for the 

everyday, realistic, in the box, comfortable, as known 

to man life style. Unrealistic is for dreamers that are 

known as Weirdos and Dorks. Realistic is for the Consumer 

that doesn’t mind taking what life hands them 

and lives with it. I just want to push boundaries and 

show people the light. I want to inspire people to be 

who they want to be with or without money. I want 

to show people that you can do what you love and 

make a living from doing it if you don’t conform and 

if you do conform, be the best supporter to those 

that don’t conform as you can be because we all 

need each other. Conformers need non-conformers 

as entertainment and non-conformers need conformers 

as our backbones to support us so we can 

continue to entertain.” 

As of 2015, Dozier is releasing a project 

called “the HOMME Collection”. “The HOMME Collection 

is a collection of Music, Fashion, and Art all in 

one piece. I have a collection of bow ties that I will be 

releasing with each song from my HOMME EP and 

artwork to go along with it. A full collection of art at 

it’s finest. My high end full clothing line “David Norris” 

will be debuting in my music video for the first single 

“Homme”. 

His advice for emerging designers today “BE 

YOURSELF AND NEVER LET “NO” BE YOUR QUE OR 

SIGN TO “STOP”!!! “NO” means “Go Harder”!!!” - END 

Remain in the know about 

Dork Dozier and all his work at: 

www.tabbshop.com 

(bow ties and accessories) 

www.DorkDozier.com (music and other) 

Social Networks 

(Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, etc.) 

Dork Dozier @dorkdozier 



THE 

CENTIPEDE 

COLLECTION 

Available at 

www.kayemorales.com 

KAYE 


TERRORS ARE UNFORTUNATE 

BUT NECESSARY; AND 

PERCEPTIONS ARE ALWAYS 

ADJUSTED FOR THE SAKE OF 

SURVIVAL. TRAUMAS ALWAYS 

TILT INTERNAL LENSES, 

WHICH ONE CAN USE TO 

REVEAL AN AESTHETIC THAT 

CRAWLS WITHIN THE PSYCHE’S 

UNDERCURRENT. 

MORALES 

PHOTOGRAPHED BY KEN ALCAZAR 


Available at 


Available for $1,500 at 



Models KIERA SMITH 

Hair TRISHA JOANE HOUGHTON 

Makeup HENRY RASU 

Stylist SEAN PANELLA 

Photographer : KEN ALCAZAR 

Photographer asst : LEO BAYBAY 

In that dark underground, I find the 

inspiration to portray the unavoidable 

monsters of subsistence. I attempt 

to tame these creatures that usually 

evoke fear and reveal their inherent 

magnificent. Adjusted perceptions, after 

all, could summon lovely hope despite 

the dread. 

From basking in debauchery to the 

melancholia thereafter, emerges a 

creature that treads the realm of things 

terrifyingly beautiful. And this conjured 

creature, with a hundred segments 

connected, stabilized by a hundred 

legs, arouses strength in its nightmarish 

design— 

A centipede appears like a scar inflicted 

with motion. A totem to wounds 

redefined into reminders, inscribed with 

meaning and lessons for growth. 

These are my scars, manifested in fabric 

and beadwork, patterned to naturally 

occurring horrors and made grand. 

- words by Kaye Morales 

Available for $2,500 





Model CONNOR CRAIG 

Hair TRISHA JOANE HOUGHTON 

Makeup HENRY RASU 

Stylist SEAN PANELLA 

Photographer : KEN ALCAZAR 

Photographer asst : LEO BAYBAY 





Available for $1000 at 

www.kayemorales.com




Available for $1000 at 





Both avialable at 



creating Winning 

Photo shoots 

by Cindy Rae Mewhorther 


Whether it's for a 

special occasion, 

modeling portfolio, or a 

publicity shot, there are 

ways to have a winning 

photoshoot. 

With 20+ years of professional 

modeling experience 

and working as 

a modeling and acting 

coach, I have helped new 

or experienced models and the average 

person, to achieve the looks that they 

desire for their photo shoot. A photographer 

can give you some tips and guide 

you through some poses, but these tips 

will help you achieve more perfect photographs. 

THE MIRROR-The mirror is a perfect tool 

to show you what the camera sees and to 

perfect your poses. Imagine the mirror 

as the camera and consider that if your 

foot is the closest to the lens, your foot 

is going to be the largest thing in the 

picture. 

BE PREPARED- Look through fashion 

magazines and other models’ portfolios 

for pose inspiration and to see what 

works and what doesn’t. 

POSTURE- You must have good posture. 

Keep your back straight and shoulders 

up but relaxed. Slouching affects the 

mood of the photograph and enlarges 

the appearance of your stomach. 

HANDS- Be aware of your hands. Keep 

your hands graceful and soft whether 

they are on your hips or hanging at your 

sides. Don’t clump your fingers together 

or make tight white-knuckle fists. Relax 

your hands, or it will look like you have 

no fingers or claw hands. 

HEAD- No matter how skinny you are, 

there is a little bit of flab under the chin. 

If you bring your chin forward, which 

sounds like the sensible thing to do, it 

brings your face up and the camera ends 

up shooting up your nostrils. (Not attractive.) 

Instead, bring your ears forward. 

Don’t stare at the camera head on, turn 

your head, and it will show a slimmer 

profile. Elongate your neck to simulate 

height and poise. 

Also, don’t always look at the 

camera. It’s okay to look away, but be 

careful not to show too much of the 

whites of your eyes, or you will have 

‘zombie’ eyes. If you want a far off, 

dreamy look, follow the line of your nose 

to keep your sight central. 

SMILE- To add variety to your poses, 

try switching up your smile with a cute 

smirk, a friendly laugh or an edgy scowl. 

A term you my hear is “Smile with your 

eyes,” and relax your jaw so your lips are 

parted, lift eyes and warm it up into a 

smile. Your facial expressions can make 

or break your pose. 

POSING-When posing, make sure to 

differentiate your arms and legs with 

asymmetrical poses. If you have one arm 

down by your side, make sure the other 

arm is bent. If one leg is locked straight, 

give the other leg a casual bend. Modeling 

is all about positioning your body in 

flattering angles and interesting shapes. 

Don’t get stuck in the same pose for 

more than three seconds. KEEP MOVING. 

Slightly tweak your pose by moving your 

shoulders, angling your face differently, 

repositioning your arms, legs, etc. It 

helps to think of modeling as a sort of 

dance. Keep moving, keep flowing. 

The camera adds 10 pounds, so unless 

you are a very tiny woman, no woman 

looks her best when her shoulders 

and hips are straight on to the camera. 

Turn so that your hips are at the camera 

and then turn shoulders and face back 

toward the camera. Do not “jet” your hip 

toward the camera or it will look larger, 

shift the weight to the back leg. 

(Insert photo showing pose) 

Own a ‘modeling kit’ and take it on all 

shoots. These are things you will need 

but may not be directly mentioned in the 

pre-shoot communication. They are; basic 

makeup (don’t forget powder to get 

rid of shine), hair supplies (bobby pins, 

hair grips, brush, spray, etc.), shoes (flats 

and heels, nude/black), pantyhose (black 

and nude), wet wipes, lotion for your 

legs, safety pins, hand mirror, water and 

a snack, any accessories such as jewelry, 

scarves, hats, etc. 

It is also important to note what type of 

shoot you’re doing- “fashion, commercial, 

or glamour.” They call for different kinds 

of posing. Fashion modeling usually requires 

more angular and dramatic poses, 

while commercial modeling tends to 

expect more every day, happy and casual 

poses. Glamour modeling uses poses 

that showcase a girl’s assets, if you know 

what I mean. ;) 

POSING RECAPS: 

1. Look at fashion magazines and 

practice posing in a mirror 

2. Practice good posture 

3. No fingers clumped together or claw 

hands 

4. Don't always look into the camera 

5. Be asymmetrical 

6. Move. Don't get stuck in a pose more 

that 30 seconds 

Prepare - Practice - Pose 


BEHIND THE LENS 

Sarah 

Brickey 

PHOTOGRAPHY 

Interview by Robert Silver 

FROM PASSION 

TO PROFESSION 

I see that that you graduate 

this year from Academy of Art 

University. What has helped you 

along your education path that 

has helped enhance your creative 

eye? 

One of the best classes I took 

was called Sacred Geometry. It 

really made me think about how I 

compose my images. 

What is your go-to gear? What 

your your favorite len’s to use? 

I pretty much always have my Nikon 

d800 with me with the Nikkor 

85mm 1.4. I almost never take that 

lens off of my camera. 

Was there a moment or a person 

that influenced your decision to 

become a photographer? 

I hadn't had much knowledge of 

photography or how amazing it 

84 | Avant Garde Isse 2015 Issue | Fashion Xchange Magazine

could be before someone put a professional 

camera in my hand. After that I fell in love 

with making photos and learning new 

techniques. 

As a photographer I get an itch when I 

don’t shoot something after a couple 

of days, but my passion is fashion 

photography. What genre are your 

favorite subjects to capture? 

I shoot mostly fashion. I love to stay current 

and collaborate with my amazing team on 

new and future trends. 

What has been some of your favorite 

moments as a photographer or favorite 

photo shoots you have done? And why? 

One of my favorite moments was when I 

went on my first menswear fashion shoot. 

I had almost no experience with shooting 

men, but every shot I took just looked 

more amazing than the last. After that I was 

hooked. 

I enjoyed your conceptual designs of your 

portfolio editorials on your website. What 

is your thought process when coming up 

with the idea to execution? 

I usually start with an overall idea or 

concept and then go from there finding 

model, location, correct styling, hair, and 


makeup. I really like to mix timeless 

concepts with current fashion. 

What else is in store for Sarah 

Brickey Photography after the 

student life ends? 

I’ll be moving to New York in 

July and hopefully assisting a 

professional fashion photographer 

there for a year or two while I 

work on my own portfolio and 

networking i the industry. 


I get some of my best advice and inspiration comes from hanging around 

older more experienced photographers. Who is biggest influence as a 

photographer? Are there any famous photographers (present/past) that 

you really connected with or admire? 

I seem to really connect with Mario Testino’s style of photography. I admire 

how hard he works and the consistently amazing work he produces. Every 

time I look at his work he inspires me to work harder and keep pursuing my 

dreams. 

If you had a moment with an aspiring photographer what advice would 

you give him/her? 

1. Just because someone says “No” to you doesn’t mean you aren’t good at 

what you do. 

2. Don’t give up. 

View more of Sarah Brickey’s photography at www.sarahbrickeyphoto.com 

Sarah Brikey | Photo by Gary Ottonello 


Studio 

Fashion 

Shoots 

FASHION 

PHOTOGRAPHY 

MEETUP WORKSHOPS 


Bay Area Studio 

Fashion Shoots 

hosts an avant 

garde makeup 

themed shoot 

featuring 

designs by 

Maricella Olague. 

AVANT GARDE 

MAKEUP WORKSHOP 

Studio Fashion Shoots is a monthly fashion 

photography workshop. The purposee is to 

help photographer at all level enhance their 

fashion phtoograpjhy experinece by teaching 

all the necessary techniques in lighting, 

compostion, directing & more in order to 

create a fashion editorial - magazine ready 

images. 

There are two branches for any to join to: 

LA Studio Fashion Shoots (Los Angeles) & 

Bay Area Studio Fashion Shoots (San Francisco, 

Bay Area). It’s free to join their groups 

at www.meetup.com. 

Any questions email Robert Silver (Group 

Organizer) at meetup@robertsilverphotography.com 

Bay Area - http://www.meetup.com/Bay-Area-Studio-Fashion-Shoots/ 

Los Angeles - http://www.meetup.com/LA-Studio-Fashion-Shoots/ 

Photos by Michael Moore (opposite 

page), Howard Levine (top), 

Patricia Gomez (lower left, lower right). 

Hair & Makeup by Nicolette LaFranchi 


Events 

AMOROUS STYLE 

AT LOVESICK 

FASHION SHOW 

This fashion showcase is the sixth year in continuation and is the 

result of von Bromssen’s passion and vision to unify artists together in 

hopes of creating a fun night for fashion. 

Written by Ivanna Woods | Photos by Robert Silver 

In the dark hours of Valentine’s night, much of the San Francisco fashion world arrived in droves to The Empire Room in 

San Francisco for Alexandria von Bromssen’s LOVESICK, a fashion forward alternative to the burdensome expectations 

of the day’s tradition. Completely self funded, von Bromssen's aim is create a professional forum for fashion aficionados. 

The MC for the evening was Thom Scher, former fashion PR maven and longtime friend of Alexandria’s who delighted 

the crowd with foxy humor and positive energy. The designer lineup was alluring and diversely balanced. From neonomadic, 

modern punk aesthetics to wearable art from salvaged textiles, and swimwear with innovative prints. 

Former contestant on Project Runway Season 13 Emily Payne is a unique designer that has an 80’s / space oddity influence. 

She showcased print dresses, tie dyed wool draped crops and my personal favorite, mega hoodies. She has two lines, 

Devon Rose which is a kids line and Leathertongue, a high end street wear label for fashion forward women who want to 

show their femininity with a sharp edge. Designs from Emily can be viewed at www.leathertongue.net 


Voted Best Emerging Designer by the San Francisco Fashion 

Awards, Candice Cuoco has showed her House of CCUOCO in 

London Fashion Week last year and will present at LFW in 2015 

as well. Spohisticatedly provocative. Intellectually fashionable. 

Cuoco’s line is couture fashion with a contemporary twist and not 

for the faint at heart. You may find her latest couture collections 

on www.ccuoco.net 

Swimwear designer Austino Tercero executes unifying his love 

of prints with adding his own signature touch to each piece. 

He showcased some designs that were unconventional yet 

approachable. 

The multi talented Atousa Ghanizadeh can put designer, creator 

and producer on her resume. She has worked with artists such as 

Boy George, Marilyn Manson, Korn, Gwen Stefani, and sells her 

designs at WildFeather on Haight and Heroes and Hairoines in San 

Rafel. She also is the creator and producer of Sew Down, a fashion 

event that is held during LA Fashion Week. 

Longevity is one of the key components to making an indelible 

mark in the industry, and artist, designer and stylist Rebecca 

Roman has been a part of the San Francisco fashion and art 

scene for over ten years. She describes her style as loose, lively 

and expressive and her showcase on the runway truly made a 

statement. Her fun feathery costume bras are one of a kind and 

designed to celebrate the fun side to your personality. Shop her 

collection at www.mydirtydishes.com 

Miranda Caroligne creates wearable art from salvaged textiles. 

I personally loved the fringe detail; very feminine and quickly 

catches the eye. With concepts infused with self-expression and 

an ethos of ‘neoarchaic’. Visit www.mirandacaroligne.com for more 

Ivanna Woods & Alexandira Von Bromssen (L-R) 


information. 

Designer and producer of fashion shows, Kate Knuvelder, 

winner of the San Francisco Fashion Awards for Best 

Jewelry Designer showcased her jewelry collection. www. 

kateknuvelder.weebly.com 

Alexandria von Bromssen was a former model and 

curates for Red Square Boutique that features local 

artists and exclusive designs from House of AVB. She was 

the first runner up on Season 12 Project Runway and a 

contestant on Season 4 Project Runway All Stars. She 

holds a unique perspective on neo-nomadic, modern and 

punk aesthetics and derives inspiration from her travels. 

I loved every look of hers, as they each made their own 

characteristic statement. A blend of Euro sophistication 

with street edge - understated and functional. From 

the hats with detailed lace to the mesh bodysuits, floor 

sweeping trench coats and uber cool menswear, Von 

Bromssen’s line is truly stand out. On the weekends, you 

can find Alexandria at the Camp Couture instructing mini 

–couture sessions with children of all ages. Her designs 

are available for purchase at www.houseofavb.com 

LOVESICK was the very first event held at The Empire 

Room; a gorgeous creative, social space equipped with 

beautiful hardwood floors, gorgeous chandeliers and 

elegant vintage furnishings. Fun details of the show 

included a trunk show and kissing/photo booth and 

handmade crafted cocktails from their mixolology bar. 

Co-Producer of LOVESICK, DJ Meikee Magnetic of 

Dark Beauty Magazine (Music) spun energetic tunes 

throughout the entire runway show, creating incredible 

vibes for the models to feed off of. Music by ROOZ 

(Deep Blue). Known as one of San Francisco’s premier 

and well respected DJ’s, ROOZ is a DJ, promoter, and 

major advocate of underground electronic music in 

San Francisco. He specializes in underground house, 

techno and tech-house. Alessandro, founder of BASE 

Italy Underground. Irene Hernandez, founder of Chillin 

Productions and owner of Wonderland SF Gallery and 

Boutique and Chris Cheezy Macasero. 

Michelle Tezak, Karismia Rodriguez, Nathifa De Andrade, 

Conrad Sherby, Logan Martin, Anthony Garay, Nick Fricker, 

Dominique Shaw, Chris Jackson, Alyssa Elaine, Neeru Sehgal, 

Natalie Rose de Ranieri, Sarah Langrock, Karina La Mar, Bree 

Cherise, Haylee Bay, Hazer Ozcan, ShelbyAutumn, Amy Yen, 

Kara Emily, Michelle Grey, Kerstyn Inouye, Maritza Reglado, 

Vivienne Han, Gloria Taylor, Kimberly Anne, Diana Azalea 

Jeanette, Jaclyn McMillian and Dale Sylvae. 

Media coverage by L.a. Hernandez / Ultra Flix 

Runway lighting by Future Weapons 

Industry hosts: Dark Beauty Magazine, Del Geronimo, 

Ivanna Woods & Robert Silver, owners of Fashion Xchange 

Magazine. 

Hair stylists: Courtney Mark, Thomas Hane II, Andrew 

Luddeke, Hannah Skelton, Nikki Fox. 

Makeup stylists: Aurora Love, Channel Burgos, Rykk 

Martinez, Veronica Hernandez, Courtney Mark, Loni Gunn, 

Summer Flores, Taylor Klevins, Heroes & Hairoines makeup 

team and Anysia Olmedo was the makeup director for 

Alexandria von Bromssen. 

Models: Gigi D’Amore, Ania Chanelle, Shai White, 



Academy 

of Art 

University 

2015 Fall Beauty Trends at 


BY JEANIE WALSH 


EXTREMELY 

FAST PACED 

Victor Cembellin backstage at 

Academy of Art University show 

aduring NYFW. 

FASHIONABLE 

DETERMINATION 

It was through my internship 

with the School of Fashion PR 

team that I had the remarkable 

opportunity to attend New 

York Fashion Week and cover 

the beauty trends for the 

Academy of Art University Fall 

2015 runway show. I am always 

scanning magazines and the 

web for what’s hot and what’s 

not in the fashion industry. 

When it comes to makeup, you 

could say I am a beauty addict; 

I can never get enough MAC 

products. Their packaging is 

trendy and their ad campaigns 

often feature top celebrities 

and pop artists, not to mention 

their makeup rocks! 

MAC has always been 

my go-to source for every 

event and styling shoot that 

I have produced, so I was 

thrilled when I found out that 

Victor Cembellin (left),senior 

makeup artist for MAC, would 

be the lead artist for the 

Academy of Art University’s 


show. With more than 20 

years of industry experience, 

Cembellin is also a freelance 

editorial makeup artist and 

an educator at the Academy. 

His expertise and know-how 

are brilliant assets for Academy 

students who wish to further 

their career in the beauty 

world. 

It was all about 

transformation at the 

Academy of Art University 

Fall 2015 Mercedes- 

Benz Fashion Week show. 

Sculpting and shaping 

were the hot beautytrends 

being applied to models. 

The scene backstage at 

Lincoln Center the day 

of the show—Valentine’s 

Day!— was extremely fast 

paced yet very organized, 

with a huge number of 

people working to 

complete varied tasks 

IT WAS ALL ABOUT 

TRANSFORMATION 

all within a short span of 

time. 

Each station 

backstage was arranged 

in a systematic way for 

efficient, speedy work for 

this large scale production. 

To get every facial feature 

covered in the short time 


Backstage a MAC PRO team makeup 

artist and hairstylist work on final 

touches before show begins. 

Victor Cembellin backstage creating 

the looks on the models. 

There was a 

focusback to the body 

and wearability in Silhouette 

allotted, multiple artists worked on each 

model simultaneously. One artist worked 

on makeup while a hairstylist finalized the 

model’s hair. 

“This season we are playing with 

architecture, we are playing with the shape 

of each of the models eyes,” explained 

Cembellin. 

Cembellin masterfully created 

the looks on the models using several key 

products, including MAC Cosmetics Studio 

Waterweight Foundation, which will be 

released in the Fall. The MAC Pro team also 

used sculpting product Baby Don’t Go along 

with a cream-coloredbase called Hush. 

Instead of playing with color, the team of 

artists experimented more with placement, 

shapes and tones. 

“This group of designers is focused 

on transformation,” said Simon Ungless, 

Executive Director of the School of Fashion. 

“They are using fabric manipulation and 

printing techniques to change the inherent 

qualities of textiles to create new textures 

and surface qualities. There is a focus back 

to the body and wearability in silhouette, 

which the designers have utilized advanced 

tailoring techniques to achieve.” 

The focus on transformation was 

consistent throughout the collections 

and balanced well with the architecturally 

sculpted beauty looks created by Cembellin 

and the MAC PRO Team. The look was a sort 

of a tough or moody version of a 1990’s super 

model, explained Cembellin. 

Complementing the sculpted 

makeup look was a sleek, almost wet-looking 

hairstyle with a samurai knot dreamed up by 

hair guru Jon Reyman and his Aveda team. I 

was able to steal a few minutes of Cembellin’s 

time to ask him a few questions, these were 

his responses: 

Jeanie Walsh: How do you start your day? 

Victor Cembellin: I enjoy taking my dog, Pinto 

Bean, for a walk in the morning, carving out 

time for a coffee run, and if I'm good, going 

for a quick jog. 

JW: How many years now have you been 

the makeup artist for the Academy of Art 

University shows? 

VC: The first time I keyed the Academy’s show 

was New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 

in 2009. I have been privileged to connect 

with Simon Ungless and so many other 

wonderful talents. There have even been 

lavish editorial spreads, covers of countless 

magazines, and the honorable opportunity to 


JW: What are some other shows that you are creating the look 

for this season? 

VC: MAC Cosmetics is supporting over 70 shows this season in 

New York alone. There are a lot of different looks, but at the same 

time, a lot of consistency backstage. Personally, I’ll be working on 

Carolina Herrera, Rachel Zoe, and Oscar de la Renta. I also designed 

the look for the 45 male models at Perry Ellis. 

JW: Do you have any runway beauty tips that can be used for 

street wear beauty? 

VC: One of the biggest beauty buzzwords right now is “reality.” The 

makeup trend is to visibly improve and reveal your best features 

without necessarily trying to change your look. This can easily be 

achieved with a product like MAC Cosmetics Studio Waterweight 

Foundation, which provides coverage that appears virtually invisible 

to the naked eye. 

Jon Reyman backstage creating 

looks for the Academy of Art 

University Fashion Show. 

become an instructor at the Academy of Art University 

itself. 

JW: What was the inspiration behind the look for 

the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 show? 

Where do you draw your inspiration and ideas 

from? 

VC: It’s the designer’s moment to showcase their 

signature collections, so it’s important to create a 

look that complements while creating continuity 

throughout the show. As a makeup artist, I have 

always considered myself a storyteller who draws inspiration 

from various sources. This season I wanted 

to tell a moody beauty story with a nod to 1990’s supermodels 

by using the architecture of each model’s 

face as the focal point. 

JW: Which products did you use at the Academy 

of Art University Fall 2015 show? 

VC: The star products for the AAU show were MAC 

Cosmetics Baby Don’t Go Pro Longwear Blush to 

sculpt cheekbones, MAC Cosmetics Coquette Eye 

Shadow to define the eyes and create a bit of mood 

and androgyny, MAC Cosmetics Hush Cream Colour 

Base for natural highlighting of facial contours, and 

MAC Cosmetics Studio Waterweight Foundation to 

invisibly conceal and neutralize lip tones. 

JW: What are the biggest beauty trends right now? What color 

palette and products are currently trending? 

VC: Last season we celebrated minimal makeup. Bridging into fall, 

we’re keeping skin clean and fresh but adding signature statements 

like a bold lip or a strong liner. In terms of color, we’re seeing 

black liners replaced with graphite, pastels with shots of grey 

added to create a unique tonality, and the return of metallics. 

JW: What are five things you’re loving right now? 

VC: 

1. Matte Lips: Watch out for this trend and for the new MAC Cosmetics 

Retro Matte Liquid Lipsticks, which are being sported all 

over NYFW. 

2. Individuality: Fashion and makeup have become so much about 

celebrating identity and creativity. 

3. Classic novels: Because they force me to put the iPhone down. 

4. Food: I’m attempting to become a “foodie” (although it’s a bit 

expensive to dine out in San Francisco). 

5. Hair: I have purely done makeup for 20 years and I’m now trying 

to learn the basics of hair 

JW: Was beauty something you were always interested in? 

Where do you see yourself headed in the next few years? 

VC: I actually discovered beauty while performing in theatre back 

in high school. I immediately loved makeup’s transformational 

qualities. This was during the time when artists like Madonna 

would use fashion, hair, and makeup to redefine their identity for 

a brief moment. I knew I had to be a part of that magic. Only time 

will tell where I’m headed. It’s so unclear where I may find myself 

working or travelling to next, but this marks my 20th year with 

MAC Cosmetics. Another role I love is working at the Academy and 

lending my experiences to emerging artists who are embarking 

on their creative journeys. 

ABOUT THE WRITER 

By Jeanie Walsh, MFA Fashion Journalism, 

Academy of Art University | Backstage photos 

by Stacy Murphy Photography 


An Education: Backstage 

at the Fall 2015 Academy 

of Art University 

Collections 

Written by Malcolm Thomas 

It’s my final night in New York City. The last four days have been 

electric. I wait in the lobby of the Belvedere Hotel, just a block away 

from Times Square, where thirty minutes earlier I was on the phone 

trying to get directions. The snow fell gently onto the shoulders of my 

lambskin leather jacket, peppering it with frozen, white fluff and 

condensation. My hands are still red from being outside. I rub them 

together in an attempt to warm them up, but I can still feel the sting of 

the winter air. Next time, I will bring gloves. 


It’s four o’clock PM. In half an hour my fellow PR intern Jeanie Walsh and I will be called to go to The Theatre at Lincoln 

Center. We will be volunteering backstage and reviewing the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 collections at 

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. For both of us it will be our first time backstage at a fashion show. For industry veterans 

it will be their last time attending fashion shows at Lincoln Center. Previously housed at Bryant Park, New York Fashion 

Week’s current residency at Lincoln Center is coming to a close. Sponsored by Mercedes-Benz, and known as Mercedes- 

Benz Fashion Week since 2009, New York Fashion Week will once again have to find another venue as well as a new 

sponsor. For now, though, I am still sitting in the lobby of the Belvedere Hotel waiting for Jeanie to arrive. Finally, her heels 

clicking and clacking as she walks down the hall, Jeanie joins me and we hop into a taxi. We’re off. 

Five o’clock PM. It’s the day of the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show, and all is not 

calm before the storm. Two hours before the V.I.P.’s will arrive in their perfectly polished outfits with their million dollar 

smiles, there is madness backstage at Lincoln Center’s Theater. Models are being made up, packs of photographers are 

shoving their way behind vanities and over shoulders to get the perfect shot. Designers are nervously being interviewed 

by press and trying to steal a moment here or there to finish steaming their garments, dressers arrive and set about to find 

their stations, and those very solemn folks wearing headsets are trying to make sense of it all. For a backstage novice it is a 

rush, for a designer it is crunch time, for a student it is a dream. 

“In the beginning, I felt nervous. I didn’t know I could go this far, but at this point I feel super excited. It’s my first time being 

here. I’ve come a long way,” said Xiaowei Liu, the MFA designer behind an indigo-dyed men’s and womenswear collection 

which took her six months to make. Her collaborator, Stella Xingyu Hu, an MFA fashion designer and New York Fashion 

Week peer, has constructed Rubik’s Cube inspired rainbow colored sweaters that are equally as labor intensive as they are 

impressive. 

Six o’clock PM. A bevy of statuesque models stand in a single file line awaiting their cue for the run through. The pressure 

is on—they only get one rehearsal to iron out all the kinks before seats are filled. I stand in the aisle above the bleachers 


watching models take to the runway in their street clothes and runway 

shoes. In the distance, volunteers and front of house crew put out seat 

placements and press releases for the esteemed guests who will soon 

be arriving. 

Seven o’clock PM. The crowd descends. Shaun Ross has 

arrived. The albino model’s blonde, asymmetrical dreadlocks hang 

over his shades as he lets out an electric grin for the cameras. Other 

photographed faces are here too—Miss Universe, Miss USA and Miss 

Teen USA, runway coach and America’s Next Top Model personality J. 

Alexander, famed journalist Michael Musto, model Karrueche Tran and 

Big Time Rush lead singer Kendall Schmidt to name a few. Flashbulbs 

are burning. Guests are flooding into The Theatre at Lincoln Center like 

waves crashing ashore. More flashbulbs. More poses for the camera. 

The wearer of a gold sequined dress is being ushered to her seat. It’s Dr. 

Elisa Stephens, Academy of Art University president. She greets Lubov 

Azria, friend and BCBGMAXAZRIA Chief Creative Officer, who has come 

to show her support. 

The lights dim then brighten. The music cues. The show has started. 


fresh face 

LESLIE 

HAWKINS 

Photography: 

DERRICK RODGERS 

Designer: KNOTTYLOOP 

CREATIONS BY MONA 

MUHAMMAD 

(www.knottyloop.com ) 

Makeup Artist: 

JATAWN MOODY 


INDUSTRY NEWS 

RETAIL 

PHOTOGRAPHY 

EVENTS 

RUNWAY REPORTS 

INTERVIEWS 

INDUSTRY ADVICE 

SUBSCRIBE 

NOW! 

www.fashionxchangemag.com

The Avant Garde Issue

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?