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Nomination to UNESCO’s List of<br />

World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities<br />

DELHI: A <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>City</strong><br />

Submission for Tentative Listing<br />

January 2012<br />

Logo created from IGNCA and INTACH, <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter for the exhibition, “<strong>Delhi</strong>: A Living <strong>Heritage</strong>.”


Contents<br />

Tentative List Submission<br />

Name of the Property 5<br />

Description of the Nominated Area<br />

- Mehrauli 12<br />

- Nizamuddin 18<br />

- Shahjahanabad 26<br />

- New <strong>Delhi</strong> 32<br />

Justification of Outstanding Universal Value<br />

Criteria met<br />

- (ii) 38<br />

- (v) 39<br />

- (vi) 40<br />

Statements of authenticity and integrity 42<br />

Comparison with other similar properties 45<br />

- Historic Centre of Rome, the Properties<br />

of the Holy See in that <strong>City</strong> Enjoying<br />

Extraterritorial Rights and San Paolo Fuori<br />

le Mura<br />

- Historic Cairo<br />

- Samarkand: Crossroads of Cultures<br />

- Lahore<br />

- Agra<br />

- Lucknow<br />

Map of Nominated Area<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>’s historic eight capital cities<br />

INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 3


Name of the<br />

Property<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>: A <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>City</strong><br />

State, Province or Region:<br />

Latitude and Longitude:<br />

New <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

Latitude:28°40’ N, Longitude:77°12’E<br />

State Party<br />

INDIA<br />

Nomination<br />

Submitted by<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> Tourism and Transportation Development Corporation<br />

Government of the National Capital Territory of <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

Submission<br />

prepared by<br />

Name:<br />

E-mail:<br />

INTACH, <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter<br />

delhiheritagecity@gmail.com<br />

Address: 71, Lodhi Estate, New <strong>Delhi</strong>, 110003<br />

Institution:<br />

Indian National Trust for Art and<br />

Cultural <strong>Heritage</strong><br />

Fax: + 91 11 2461 1290<br />

Telephone: + 91 11 2469 2774<br />

Date of Submission: January, 2012<br />

Authorised Signatory<br />

MD, DTTDC<br />

INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 5


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

Description<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> known as Kalkaji. Nearby is the<br />

Kalkaji temple, the site of a temple to<br />

the goddess Kalka Devi and probably<br />

even in Ashoka’s time a temple stood<br />

here.<br />

a<br />

‘<strong>Delhi</strong>’, being nominated for listing with<br />

UNESCO as a World <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>City</strong> is<br />

best described as a living city, in which<br />

the historical past and contemporary<br />

life coexist harmoniously .<br />

EVOLUTION OF DELHI – A<br />

Historical Reference<br />

The historic settlement that we know<br />

today as <strong>Delhi</strong>, took shape in a roughly<br />

triangular patch of land. One side of<br />

the triangle is made up by the Yamuna<br />

river, and the other two consist of hilly<br />

spurs at the northern extreme of the<br />

Aravalli range of mountains. At a local<br />

level these two natural features have<br />

provided a varied landscape – hills<br />

well covered with vegetation, as well<br />

as a fertile alluvial plain. The wider<br />

regional importance of <strong>Delhi</strong> has<br />

historically stemmed from its crucial<br />

geographical location within the<br />

Indian subcontinent. It is located at<br />

the northern end of the Gangetic plain;<br />

at a point where the plain narrows<br />

to a neck of land between the great<br />

rivers and Himalayas to the north,<br />

and the Aravallis and the Thar Desert<br />

to the south. It is therefore a gateway<br />

to the fertile Gangetic plain, which<br />

empire-builders from early times have<br />

sought to control, and to the Southern<br />

peninsula beyond.<br />

The <strong>Delhi</strong> region was inhabited by tool<br />

making hominids, followed by human<br />

beings, probably as far back as 100,000<br />

years ago. In this pre-historic period<br />

it was mainly the hilly regions to the<br />

south of <strong>Delhi</strong> that were occupied.<br />

The area was almost certainly covered<br />

with rich vegetation and ample wildlife<br />

– ideal for the hunting-gathering<br />

lifestyle of the Stone Age people. It<br />

is also clear that the River Yamuna at<br />

that time flowed through these hills.<br />

The river in fact has changed course<br />

several times and at least six old beds<br />

have been identified. Interestingly, the<br />

location of Stone Age sites and their<br />

sequence suggests that pre-historic<br />

people moved with the river.<br />

When agriculture became the primary<br />

source of food for ancient populations<br />

there was a shift in settlements –<br />

away from the ridge and towards the<br />

plains and more particularly along the<br />

Yamuna. There is evidence that <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

was settled during the Late Harappan<br />

period. This was a phase, sometime<br />

between 2000-1000 B.C., when<br />

the sophisticated urban Harappan<br />

civilization was past its heyday, and its<br />

cities had been replaced by scattered<br />

rural settlements.<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>, as we know<br />

it today is an<br />

amalgamation of many<br />

cities, built at different<br />

times in its thousandyear<br />

history.<br />

a. The city of <strong>Delhi</strong> before the<br />

siege, from the Illustrated<br />

London News, Jan[1].16, 1858,<br />

British Library<br />

a<br />

b<br />

a. Archaeological findings at<br />

the Purana Qila site<br />

b. Ashokan Rock Edict<br />

c. Late Harappan Period<br />

Pottery<br />

c<br />

The Late Harappan phase was<br />

followed by the Vedic Age, when the<br />

ancient scriptures or the Vedas were<br />

first composed. In the early part of the<br />

first millennium B.C. certain events<br />

were taking place that are believed to<br />

have formed the basis of one of the<br />

great epics of India – the Mahabharata.<br />

This is the tale of a rivalry and great<br />

war between two sets of cousins –<br />

the Kauravas and the Pandavas. The<br />

capital city established by the latter,<br />

known as Indraprastha, has in the local<br />

tradition been identified with the site<br />

of the Purana Qila, beside the Yamuna<br />

in <strong>Delhi</strong>. Archaeological evidence from<br />

the site has been unable to point to<br />

anything definite.<br />

Around the 6th century B.C. an active<br />

phase of state formation began in<br />

North India, with the rise of several<br />

territorial states or Mahajanpadas.<br />

At this time <strong>Delhi</strong>, though not one of<br />

the major political centres, was an<br />

important point on the great north<br />

Indian trade route, known as the<br />

Uttarapatha. It was thus an ideal place<br />

for the emperor Ashoka, who ruled<br />

over the a large territory in the third<br />

century B.C., to put up an inscription<br />

containing what is known to us as his<br />

rock edict. The edict was inscribed<br />

on a large boulder on a hilly piece of<br />

ground, in an area in modern south<br />

In the subsequent centuries too, <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

probably formed a part of states<br />

which had their centres of power<br />

elsewhere, such as the Sungas, Shakas<br />

and Kushanas. During the Gupta<br />

period, sometime in the fourth century<br />

A.D. a remarkable commemorative<br />

pillar made out of a very high quality<br />

iron was set up, maybe somewhere<br />

in the neighbourhood of <strong>Delhi</strong>. The<br />

inscriptional evidence is not entirely<br />

clear but it is believed that this pillar<br />

was moved at least once during its<br />

history. Today it is located in the middle<br />

of the oldest mosque in the city, in the<br />

Qutb Minar complex.<br />

By the eight century <strong>Delhi</strong> had come<br />

under the sway of the Tomars, one of<br />

the several Rajput dynasties that had<br />

their origins in Rajasthan. The Tomars<br />

first established fortifications in the<br />

village of Anangpur, and around the<br />

large reservoir known as Surajkund,<br />

just south of <strong>Delhi</strong>. In the mid-eleventh<br />

century, Anangpal II of this dynasty<br />

built the fortified city of Lal Kot, located<br />

in present day Mehrauli.<br />

The Chauhans, headquartered in Ajmer,<br />

wrested control of <strong>Delhi</strong> from the<br />

Tomars in the twelfth century. Under<br />

Prithviraj Chauhan the fortifications<br />

of Lal Kot were extended to enclose a<br />

larger space, forming the fort known as<br />

Qila Rai Pithora. A rich material culture,<br />

including more than a score beautifully<br />

carved stone temples formed a part of<br />

this city. The temple pillars can still be<br />

seen on the site as they were re-used in<br />

the construction of the Quwwat ul Islam<br />

mosque – next to the Qutb Minar.<br />

6<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 7


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

a b c<br />

a<br />

b<br />

Then towards the end of the twelfth<br />

century, the Chauhans were overthrown<br />

by a new entrant on the scene. The<br />

forces of Mohammad Ghori, a Central<br />

Asian Turk with a base in Ghazni,<br />

defeated the armies of Prithviraj<br />

Chauhan at the battle of Tarain in 1192.<br />

In early 1193, his general Qutbuddin<br />

Aibak captured <strong>Delhi</strong> and established<br />

the capital of Ghori’s Indian territories<br />

in the fort of Qila Rai Pithora. The Turk<br />

conquest laid the groundwork for the<br />

establishment of the <strong>Delhi</strong> Sultanate,<br />

which was to last in some form or the<br />

other until the arrival of the Mughals in<br />

the sixteenth century. Under the Turks,<br />

from the early thirteenth century <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

acquired a new importance as the<br />

capital of a dynamic and expanding<br />

empire.<br />

The Turk conquerors were Muslims,<br />

and avowedly committed to the setting<br />

up of an Islamic state, with the name of<br />

the Caliph being included in the Friday<br />

sermon and on coinage. One of the<br />

early Sultans, Iltutmish (1211-36) even<br />

sought to give his position legitimacy in<br />

the eyes of the orthodox by obtaining<br />

a letter of investiture from the Caliph<br />

at Baghdad, confirming Iltutmish’s<br />

title as sultan of India. Simultaneously<br />

however great changes were occurring<br />

in the Islamic world. The Mongols<br />

under Chengiz Khan were wreaking<br />

havoc over Central and West Asia,<br />

and important centres of Islam like<br />

Bukhara and Baghdad were destroyed.<br />

Thus <strong>Delhi</strong> was looked upon as a last<br />

refuge for Islam in the East, and poets,<br />

scholars and men of letters fleeing<br />

the destruction of their homes found<br />

shelter in India, and particularly in<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>.<br />

In its everyday practice however,<br />

the polity of the <strong>Delhi</strong> Sultanate was<br />

not based on orthodox Islam, which<br />

would have advocated a harsh line<br />

with non-believers. And here, the<br />

role and influence of the Sufis was<br />

probably a factor. The Sufi saints were<br />

among those who came to <strong>Delhi</strong> in<br />

the wake of the Turkish conquerors.<br />

Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki, the Chishti<br />

Sufi, was one of the several who made<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> their base, and contributed to<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>’s acquiring a leading position<br />

in the sacred geography of Islam in<br />

the Indian sub-continent. The city in<br />

fact came to be called Hazrat-e-Dehli,<br />

or ‘the venerable <strong>Delhi</strong>’. The saints,<br />

with their liberal religious practice<br />

attracted not only converts and<br />

devotees in large numbers, they also<br />

provided the political power with a<br />

model of governance that was based on<br />

a tolerance of non-Muslim populations.<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>, even as it was the capital of an<br />

empire that purportedly derived its<br />

legitimacy from Islam, continued to<br />

have a large Hindu population.<br />

The saints’ hospices and shrines and<br />

their spheres of influence, were also the<br />

setting for a cultural interaction that<br />

In Alai Darwaza. the<br />

use of red sandstone<br />

and marble in<br />

combination, the<br />

hemispherical dome<br />

and its horseshoe<br />

arch mark a high<br />

point in Sultanate<br />

architecture.<br />

a. Surajkund: A reservoir in the<br />

village of Anangpur, south of<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> © ASI.<br />

b. Built in the middle of the<br />

eleventh century by the Tomar<br />

ruler Anangpal II, the fort of Lal<br />

Kot (‘Red Fort’) © ASI.<br />

c. Sculptures in Mehrauli<br />

© ASI<br />

a. Fort Walls and bastion of<br />

Siri, the second city of <strong>Delhi</strong>.<br />

b.a. The massive bastions of<br />

Tughlaqabad tower over the<br />

rocky ground.<br />

was reflected in syncreticism outside<br />

the religious sphere. This included<br />

developments in architecture, music,<br />

literature and language, which brought<br />

together diverse traditions to create<br />

a composite style that soon gained<br />

influence in the entire sub-continent.<br />

In the first century of the <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

Sultanate, though the concentration<br />

of population continued to be highest<br />

in Mehrauli, in and around Qila Rai<br />

Pithora, some settlements were coming<br />

up closer to the river. One important<br />

reason for this was the need to provide<br />

access to a reliable source of water. In<br />

the mid-thirteenth century the Sufi<br />

saint Nizamuddin Auliya established<br />

his seat or khanqah at the suburb of<br />

Ghiaspur, today known as Nizamuddin.<br />

Around 1288 Sultan Kaiqubad built<br />

a walled palace at Kilokhari, about a<br />

kilometer from Ghiaspur. Kaiqubad’s<br />

successor Jalaluddin, who founded<br />

the Khilji Dynasty in 1290, was unsure<br />

of the loyalty of the people of the old<br />

city at Mehrauli, and therefore made<br />

Kilokhari his headquarters. Soon the<br />

wealthy and powerful nobles and<br />

merchants of <strong>Delhi</strong> built houses in<br />

Kilokhari, markets were established<br />

and it came to be known as the shahare-nau,<br />

or ‘new city’.<br />

The old town at Mehrauli continued<br />

to be important and was again the<br />

capital under Jalaluddin’s successor<br />

Alauddin. One factor that checked the<br />

move towards the river was strategic<br />

necessity, and the fortifications of<br />

Qila Rai Pithora on the ridge were<br />

important for defense, particularly<br />

when the Mongols threatened <strong>Delhi</strong> in<br />

the late thirteenth and early fourteenth<br />

centuries. The emperor Alauddin Khilji<br />

found himself repeatedly engaging<br />

them in battle on the plain of Siri,<br />

located north of Mehrauli. Alauddin<br />

decided to build a fortification, and this<br />

led to the founding of the new capital of<br />

Siri in the early fourteenth century.<br />

The founder of the Tughlaq dynasty,<br />

Ghiasuddin Tughlaq, was also very<br />

conscious of the threat of the Mongols.<br />

His fortified capital of Tughlaqabad<br />

was built around 1321-25, on the rocky<br />

scarps of the ridge in the south-eastern<br />

corner of the <strong>Delhi</strong> triangle. The rocks<br />

on the site provided ample building<br />

material, the heights reinforced the<br />

defenses of the fort, and the natural<br />

drainage line of the ridge could be<br />

dammed to provide a source of water.<br />

Ghiasuddin’s successor Mohammad<br />

Tughlaq moved back towards the old<br />

city at Mehrauli, but in the meantime<br />

the population of the city had been<br />

growing and spilling outside the walls.<br />

Conscious of the need for security,<br />

Mohammad Tughlaq decided to build a<br />

line of fortifications linking the forts of<br />

the Qila Rai Pithora and Siri. The space<br />

thus enclosed was named Jahanpanah,<br />

and Mohammad built an impressive<br />

8<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 9


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

a<br />

b<br />

c<br />

a<br />

b<br />

c<br />

palace complex (Bijai Mandal) and<br />

congregational mosque (Begampur<br />

Masjid) in it.<br />

By the mid-fourteenth century the<br />

Mongol threat had receded and from<br />

this point onwards there was a decided<br />

move closer to the river. Firoz Shah<br />

Tughlaq’s city of Firozabad, built in<br />

the 1350s, was towards the north,<br />

on the river. The end of the Tughlaq<br />

dynasty saw a sharp decline in the<br />

power and territories of the <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

Sultante, underlined by the invasion of<br />

the Timur (also known as Tamerlane)<br />

in 1398. The succeeding dynasties<br />

of the Syeds and the Lodis ruled over<br />

considerably shrunken territories and<br />

have not left behind any discernable<br />

cities. Mubarak Shah of the short-lived<br />

Syed dynasty is said to have established<br />

a city called Mubarakabad near the<br />

Yamuna, but no trace of it remains.<br />

The <strong>Delhi</strong> Sultanate came to an end<br />

in 1526, when Babur, a descendant of<br />

Timur, defeated the forces of the last<br />

Lodi Sultan, Ibrahim, and established<br />

the Mughal dynasty. His successor<br />

Humayun built the city of Dinpanah in<br />

the 1530s, just north of the shrine of<br />

Nizamuddin. Coincidentally the citadel<br />

was placed on the site of the village<br />

of Indarpat, popularly identified<br />

with the ancient city of Indraprastha.<br />

Humayun’s reign was interrupted<br />

by that of the Suri dynasty, and Sher<br />

Shah Suri made his own additions to<br />

Dinpanah, and established the city of<br />

Shergarh around it.<br />

Humayun’s successor Akbar moved the<br />

capital of the Mughal empire to Agra,<br />

but <strong>Delhi</strong> did not lose its importance<br />

as an important centre of trade and<br />

culture. In particular the Sufi shrines<br />

of the city gave it a premier position in<br />

the sacred geography of Islam in India.<br />

The choice of <strong>Delhi</strong> for the mausoleum<br />

of Humayun, located in the vicinity of<br />

Nizamuddin’s shrine, underlined this<br />

importance.<br />

In 1639, Akbar’s grandson Shahjahan<br />

decided to shift the capital out of Agra,<br />

and <strong>Delhi</strong> was chosen as the site for<br />

his grand imperial city. The new city,<br />

called Shahjahanabad, was by the<br />

river, north of all of <strong>Delhi</strong>’s previous<br />

cities. This continued to be the seat<br />

of the Mughal emperor even as the<br />

empire declined in the eighteenth<br />

century, and the British East India<br />

Company came to control most of its<br />

erstwhile territories. Shahjahanabad,<br />

as the seat of the Mughal court saw a<br />

flowering of architecture, crafts, visual<br />

and performing arts, language and<br />

literature, that persisted well beyond<br />

the heyday of the Mughal empire.<br />

Through the nineteenth century the<br />

British ruled their Indian territories<br />

from their capital at Calcutta. <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

saw the upheaval of the Revolt of 1857<br />

and was for a while relegated to an<br />

administrative backwater. But the aura<br />

a. Pyramid of cells with the<br />

Ashokan pillar, Firoz Shah Kotla.<br />

© British Library<br />

b. Dinpanah, the city built by<br />

Humanyun in 1530’s<br />

c. In building architecture,<br />

new plans and shapes became<br />

popular. Monumental structures<br />

were built like the octagonal<br />

tomb of Muhammad Shah<br />

Sayyid and the Bada Gumbad.<br />

© ASI<br />

a. Shahjahanabad, The walled<br />

city of the Mughals<br />

b. The Coronation Darbar<br />

of 1911, where <strong>Delhi</strong> was<br />

proposed as the new capital<br />

city.<br />

c. Rashtrapati Bhawan,<br />

designed as Viceroy House for<br />

the British Imperial capital<br />

city.<br />

of the city survived. Its long history as<br />

the capital of powerful kingdoms and<br />

empires had invested it with a mystique<br />

and prestige that not even the British<br />

could ignore. <strong>Delhi</strong> had long been<br />

associated with sovereignty over India,<br />

and the British government tapped<br />

into this legacy by holding imperial<br />

Durbars assemblages in <strong>Delhi</strong> - in 1877<br />

to proclaim Victoria Empress of India,<br />

in 1903 to celebrate the coronation<br />

of Edward VII as Emperor of India,<br />

and in 1911 to similarly proclaim the<br />

coronation of George V.<br />

It was during the last Durbar of<br />

1911 that the decision to shift the<br />

British Indian capital to <strong>Delhi</strong> was<br />

announced, and a year later <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

became the capital. Simultaneously<br />

work began on the construction of a<br />

new imperial capital city, which was<br />

finally inaugurated in 1931 as New<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>. New <strong>Delhi</strong> was planned and<br />

built as a garden city laid out around a<br />

grand ceremonial vista. While it owed<br />

inspiration to Baron Haussmann’s<br />

Paris and L’Enfant’s Washington D.C., it<br />

drew on Indian traditions with respect<br />

to design elements, decorative details,<br />

materials, and colonial forms such<br />

as the bungalow. Above all it carried<br />

forward the aura of <strong>Delhi</strong> and the city’s<br />

tradition of learning from and adopting<br />

a wide range of cultural influences.<br />

AREA PROPOSED FOR<br />

NOMINATION<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> has accommodated the various<br />

cities built at different times in its long<br />

history. The physical limits of present<br />

day <strong>Delhi</strong> have expanded to engulf all<br />

these historic areas and the legacy of<br />

many dynasties that ruled over <strong>Delhi</strong>,<br />

lives on in these historic precincts.<br />

Of the eight historic ‘capital cities’,<br />

some like Ferozabad and Dinpanah<br />

have disappeared completely<br />

leaving just a few monumental<br />

structures but no trace of either the<br />

urban morphology or character of<br />

the city; others like Tughlaqabad<br />

have been encroached upon but<br />

their urban characteristics are still<br />

identifiable; while the later cities like<br />

Shahjahanabad, have their urban form<br />

and streetscape almost intact with only<br />

the buildings having been replaced<br />

with newer constructions over the<br />

last few decades. And there are some<br />

precincts that are an intricate tapestry,<br />

with over a thousand years of culture<br />

woven into the living traditional<br />

settlements.<br />

It is <strong>Delhi</strong>’s surviving historic<br />

urbanscape of outstanding universal<br />

significance, comprising of four<br />

precincts of Mehrauli, Nizamuddin,<br />

Shahjahanabad and New <strong>Delhi</strong>, that<br />

is being proposed for nomination as<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>, a <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>City</strong>.<br />

10<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 11


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY<br />

Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities<br />

1<br />

Mehrauli<br />

The heritage precinct of Mehrauli<br />

is the site of the first capital city<br />

of <strong>Delhi</strong> and has seen 900 years of<br />

continuous habitation, leading to a<br />

layering of history which has resulted<br />

in a complex socio cultural mosaic.<br />

Continuous habitation in Mehrauli can<br />

be attributed to its strategic location<br />

on a ridge, providing much needed<br />

security, efficient water supply and good<br />

drainage due to the sloping landform,<br />

which meant liberation from diseases<br />

like malaria etc.<br />

The arrival of several Sufi saints in the<br />

early thirteenth century, in particular,<br />

Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki, has had a<br />

long-lasting impact on Mehrauli. During<br />

his lifetime the saint attracted followers<br />

to his khanqah or hospice, and after his<br />

death, his shrine continued to attract<br />

devotees. The site is also associated with<br />

the tradition of the Phoolwalon ki sair,<br />

that symbolizes secular harmony.<br />

The area being nominated as part of the<br />

World <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>City</strong> of <strong>Delhi</strong> comprises<br />

of the original walled cities of Lal Kot<br />

and Qila Rai Pithora, extending south<br />

to include the traditional settlement<br />

of Mehrauli Village and the area<br />

presently identified as the Mehrauli<br />

Archaeological Park.<br />

Evolution of the historic precinct of<br />

Mehrauli<br />

Located on the spur of the Aravallis,<br />

Mehrauli has undulating landform<br />

with seasonal ponds visible in the<br />

various depressions. The unusual<br />

development of the site and its<br />

continuous habitation over an almost<br />

thousand year period can be attributed<br />

to its unique geographic location and<br />

landform.<br />

a<br />

Hindu and Muslim capitals of<br />

Mehrauli<br />

The oldest surviving traces of an<br />

urban settlement in Mehrauli, belongs<br />

to a small fort known as Lal Kot on<br />

the rocky ground of the ridge, built<br />

during the reign of the Tomar ruler<br />

Anangpal II, in the mid-eleventh<br />

century. Excavations suggest that<br />

there was already a settlement at<br />

this location, and there are literary<br />

references to an older name for the city<br />

– Yoginipur. Yet the bulk of the wealth<br />

of antiquities unearthed date from the<br />

Tomar period and after. The Jogmaya<br />

temple that stands there today consists<br />

of relatively new buildings but is also<br />

believed to be ancient. Surviving<br />

Tomar-era constructions include part<br />

of the fortification wall and a large<br />

tank, Anangtal, paved with dressed<br />

stone.<br />

b<br />

a. Map showing the early<br />

development of the Hindu and<br />

Muslims dynasties in Mehrauli.<br />

b. Within the fortified city of Lal<br />

Kot/ Rai Pithora were a large<br />

number of Hindu, Buddhist and<br />

Jain temples. Their pillars were<br />

later reused in the building of<br />

the Quwwat-ul Islam mosque.<br />

© ASI<br />

12<br />

State Party - INDIA


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

a<br />

b<br />

c<br />

a<br />

The Chauhans who wrested power<br />

from the Tomars in the mid-twelfth<br />

century raised a defensive wall around<br />

the city, which had expanded beyond<br />

the walls of the citadel of Lal Kot and<br />

the newly fortified area was known as<br />

Qila Rai Pithora.<br />

In 1193, the Turks under Qutbuddin<br />

Aibak occupied <strong>Delhi</strong>, and the few<br />

decades there after saw a flurry of<br />

building activity within the fort.<br />

The congregational mosque, the<br />

remarkable Qutb Minar, the tomb of<br />

the ruler, Iltutmish are all testimony<br />

to the monumental works of the<br />

early Sultanate. Literary sources also<br />

describe a flourishing settlement<br />

within the walls of the city – with<br />

markets, mosques, madrasas (colleges)<br />

in addition to grand residences.<br />

The Sufi Bakhtiyar Kaki, popularly<br />

known as Qutb Sahib, came here in the<br />

early 13th century and is associated<br />

with many important structures to<br />

the south of Lal Kot. The saint is said<br />

to have had a very close relationship<br />

with Iltutmish (reigned 1211-36) and<br />

according to popular belief, Prophet<br />

Mohammad appeared in the dreams<br />

of both the Sultan and the saint,<br />

indicating the best spot at which to<br />

dig a tank to supply water to the city.<br />

Hauz-e-Shamsi was thus constructed<br />

in 1229, at a location south of the<br />

walled enclosure. The saint is said to<br />

have also offered prayers beside the<br />

tank in the company of his spiritual<br />

master, Muinuddin Chishti of Ajmer.<br />

Auliya Masjid was built at the spot<br />

on the eastern bank of the tank. The<br />

area in the vicinity of the tank became<br />

popular not only as a meeting place<br />

for the spiritually inclined, but also a<br />

popular burial site.<br />

When he died in 1235, the saint was<br />

buried closer to the city, just outside<br />

the walled city at the south-western<br />

corner. His burial site became an active<br />

and popular shrine, or dargah, which it<br />

remains to this day. It also became a<br />

centre for devotional music, performed<br />

at special gatherings called sama,<br />

which the saint in his own lifetime<br />

enjoyed. The immediate vicinity of the<br />

dargah too is dense with graves. The<br />

emperor Balban (1266-87) was buried<br />

here, just outside the walls of the fort.<br />

In addition to numerous graves and<br />

tombs, mosques, gardens and other<br />

structures have been added. These<br />

include the pavilion on the western<br />

bank (c. 1311) said to mark the spot<br />

where the prophet, seated on a horse,<br />

appeared to Iltutmish in a dream.<br />

Water management was an important<br />

consideration in settlement planning.<br />

Mehrauli is a prime example of proper<br />

utilization of the landform for water<br />

storage and distribution. The location<br />

of Hauz-i-Shamsi and the construction<br />

of baolis like Gandhak-ki-baoli and<br />

Rajon-ki-baoli illustrate this point.<br />

d<br />

a. The Chauhan’s extended<br />

the old citadel and the newly<br />

fortified area was called Qila<br />

Rai Pithora.<br />

b. Rajon ki Baoli constructed for<br />

water supply and management.<br />

c. Entrance of the sculpturous<br />

Qutb Minar<br />

d. Allaudin Khilji’s extension to<br />

the Qutb Complex.<br />

b<br />

a. Imposing Tomb of Adham<br />

Khan, AD 1562.<br />

b. Jahaz Mahal on the western<br />

banks of Hauz-i-Shamsi.<br />

c. Map showing developments<br />

from the Khilji and Mughal<br />

Periods.<br />

Khilji Dynasty - Mughal era<br />

After the Slave Dynasty, although Qila<br />

Rai Pithora was no longer the capital as<br />

Allaudin Khilji founded his own capital<br />

at Siri, a little to the north of Mehrauli,<br />

Allaudin Khilji still made extensions<br />

to the Qutb Complex and people<br />

continued to inhabit this older city of<br />

Qila Rai Pithora. The area south of the<br />

Qutb complex saw the construction<br />

of many buildings, well into the 16th<br />

century and the arrival of the Mughals.<br />

Located at the highest altitude on<br />

this site is the Takiya of Kamli Shah, a<br />

saint who arrived in the 14th C. The<br />

saint Maulana Jamali built a grand<br />

mosque in 1528-29, and was buried in<br />

a small but beautiful tomb next door.<br />

Several Lodi period tombs are to be<br />

found in this area including residential<br />

clusters. The Hauz-i-Shamsi was<br />

the main recreational area. On its<br />

western bank is the Jahaz Mahal, an<br />

impressive Lodi period building, that<br />

exemplifies the mature Sultanate<br />

style, reflecting a harmonious mix<br />

c<br />

of materials – grey quartzite, red<br />

sandstone, and glazed tiles; and forms<br />

– arches, domes, chhatris (domed<br />

kiosks) and corbelled doorways, that<br />

drew from both western Islamicate and<br />

Indian traditions. Structures similar<br />

to mosques, but oriented north-south<br />

also exist, for example Sohan Burj. The<br />

Dargah of Bakhtiyar Kaki continued to<br />

gain importance and several buildings<br />

were added to this complex, viz: Naubat<br />

Khana, Majlis Khana.<br />

Mughal period structures are to be<br />

found in this area including residential<br />

clusters. These range from the<br />

imposing tomb of Adham Khan (1562),<br />

to the elegant nineteenth century<br />

enclosure containing the graves of the<br />

Loharu family. Quli Khan (died early<br />

seventeenth century), the son of the<br />

Mughal emperor Akbar’s wet nurse<br />

and Chaumachi Khan are also buried<br />

here. The continued building activity<br />

in the area, even in the absence of the<br />

patronage of the royal court can be<br />

attributed largely to the presence of the<br />

Dargah of Bakhtiyar Kaki.<br />

14<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 15


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

Colonial Mehrauli<br />

Post Independence<br />

In the 19th century, with the British<br />

having taken control of Shahjahanbad,<br />

Mehrauli was again popular with the<br />

Mughals and they spent a lot more<br />

time here. The nineteenth century saw<br />

the growth of a thriving settlement to<br />

the west and south of the palace and<br />

the shrine and some grand residences<br />

were built around the Jogmaya temple,<br />

which are still in existence. The Bazaar<br />

spine developed with houses being<br />

built on both sides of what was then<br />

the main road to the town of Gurgaon<br />

and is today the Mehrauli Bazaar.<br />

As Mehrauli was reputed to have a<br />

healthier climate than Shahjahanabad,<br />

many of the rich of <strong>Delhi</strong> built second<br />

homes here and serais, havelis and<br />

dalan houses came up in the area.<br />

The gardens around the Hauz-e-<br />

Shamsi to the south became important<br />

recreational areas for this population.<br />

Jharna, a waterfall was created from an<br />

overflow of the tank, around which a<br />

formal garden was laid out in the 18th<br />

century. Rich game in the surrounding<br />

wilderness was an added attraction.<br />

In time development took place on<br />

both sides of the road all the way down<br />

to the Hauz-e-Shamsi, forming what is<br />

today called Mehrauli village.<br />

Among the graves next to the saint’s<br />

shrine are those of the Mughal royal<br />

family, dating from the eighteenth and<br />

nineteenth centuries; and in the first<br />

half of the nineteenth century a royal<br />

palace came up close to these, built by<br />

the emperors Akbar II (1806-37) and<br />

Bahadur Shah II (1837-57).<br />

In the mid-nineteenth century,<br />

following the banishment of the<br />

Mughal monarch, Bahadur Shah Zafar<br />

to Rangoon (1858), Mehrauli became<br />

a tehsil headquarter and many offices<br />

and government buildings were<br />

set up here. The central spine was<br />

a<br />

developed during this period. Most<br />

of the development was within the<br />

settlement itself.<br />

There was some colonial intervention<br />

in the northern section by individuals<br />

like Thomas Metcalfe, the highest<br />

British administrative official in <strong>Delhi</strong>.<br />

He modified the tomb of Quli Khan to<br />

create a weekend home, Dilkusha, also<br />

adapting and adding other buildings,<br />

and laying out a garden. He also<br />

created some singular buildings, e.g.<br />

two stepped pyramid-like structures,<br />

and a couple of domed stone canopies<br />

in the tradition of the English folly.<br />

By the twentieth century the southern<br />

area had ceased to be populated and<br />

buildings lower in the valley had been<br />

partly buried in the silt brought down<br />

by the stream coming from the Hauze-Shamsi.<br />

Among these sprawling<br />

palaces of the Mughals many town<br />

houses, offices and other structures<br />

were built by the British in the colonial<br />

style, giving it a distinct colonial flavour.<br />

b<br />

a. Map showind Colonial interventions<br />

in Mehrauli<br />

b. British repairs and additions<br />

to the tower in the 1820s included<br />

a cupola and sandstone<br />

railings on the balconies.<br />

b<br />

a<br />

a. Map showing the postindependence<br />

development in<br />

Mehrauli.<br />

b. View of Jamali Kamali.<br />

While the capital city, its historic and<br />

iconic buildings are conserved and<br />

linked through trails and interpretative<br />

signage, Mehrauli village with the<br />

dargah as its focus, is still a living<br />

settlement that has survived for over<br />

900 years. The link between the Dargah<br />

of Qutb Sahib and the Hauz-e-Shamsi<br />

continues till today as the trail of the<br />

Phoolwalon ki sair or ‘festival of the<br />

flower sellers’. Arising out of avow<br />

taken by the wife of Akbar II, Mumtaz<br />

Mahal, that she would offer a coverlet of<br />

flowers at the dargarh of Qutb Sahib if<br />

her son returned from the exile imposed<br />

by the British government, it became a<br />

tradition that has survived to this day.<br />

Floral offerings, in particular pankhas<br />

or fans were assembled around the<br />

Jharna near the hauz, and then carried<br />

to the dargah to be offered at the saint’s<br />

grave. Pankhas were also offered at the<br />

Hindu temple of Jogmaya, believed to<br />

be a sacred site of great antiquity. This<br />

celebration of Hindu-Muslim amity<br />

is a tradition that has survived to the<br />

present time, and is an annual festival<br />

at Mehrauli.<br />

16<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 17


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY<br />

Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities<br />

2<br />

Nizamuddin<br />

Nizamuddin has been associated with<br />

the presence of the renowned Sufi<br />

saint Sheikh Nizamuddin Auliya since<br />

c 1270 AD and has drawn various<br />

people to this area– a multitude of<br />

devout followers of Sufism, as well<br />

as, poets, noble men and even kings<br />

and emperors visited the saint when<br />

he was alive and even after his death.<br />

Even today, almost 700 years after his<br />

death, pilgrims visit the shrine of the<br />

saint Nizamuddin Auliya.<br />

Since it was considered auspicious to<br />

be buried near a saint’s grave, many<br />

of the saint’s ardent followers were<br />

finally laid to rest in the vicinity of the<br />

Sufi shrine. Seven centuries of tomb<br />

building can be seen in the Nizamuddin<br />

precinct.<br />

a<br />

The area being nominated as part<br />

of the World <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>City</strong> of <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

consists of the traditional settlement<br />

that grew around the dargah of the<br />

saint, and the Nizamuddin precinct.<br />

The northern limit of the settlement<br />

is Lodi Road; while the Barahpullah<br />

nallah, a tributary of the Yamuna,<br />

marks the western and southern edge<br />

of the dargah settlement. To its east is<br />

Mathura Road.<br />

The Nizamuddin Precinct is the area<br />

which has as its southern limit, the<br />

dargah settlement and stretches right<br />

up to Purana Qila in the north, and in<br />

the other direction, from <strong>Delhi</strong> Golf<br />

Club to the west, right down to the<br />

banks of the river to the east.<br />

b<br />

a. View from the top of<br />

Humayuns Tomb showing the<br />

Nizamuddin Dargah in the<br />

background.<br />

b. Map of Nizamuddin showing<br />

extent of development in the<br />

precinct.<br />

18<br />

State Party - INDIA


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

a<br />

b<br />

b<br />

Evolution of the Nizamuddin Dargah<br />

Settlement<br />

c<br />

It is believed that Ghiasuddin Balban<br />

built a palace, the Lal Mahal, at a site<br />

which was the suburb of the city of<br />

Hazrat <strong>Delhi</strong>, in the mid-13th century,<br />

following which the area came to be<br />

known as Ghiaspur. The site had the<br />

river flowing immediately to its east,<br />

agricultural land all the way up to<br />

the village of Indrapat located to its<br />

north and the city of Kilokhari to its<br />

southeast.<br />

Lal Mahal was a fine structure with<br />

a central dome and arches, and is<br />

the earliest surviving example of a<br />

Sultanate era palace. It can stake claim<br />

to be the first building where a true<br />

arch and dome were used.<br />

From 1265 AD, when Ghiasuddin<br />

Balban ascended the throne, there is<br />

evidence of a settlement, at Ghiaspur.<br />

Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, a much<br />

revered Sufi saint, chose this settlement<br />

to establish his khanqah.<br />

The wall that encircled the settlement<br />

was believed to have been built at the<br />

same time as the Lal Mahal (c 1265 AD).<br />

The enclosure was irregular in shape<br />

with circular bastions at intervals<br />

and topped with battlements. A grand<br />

mosque, the Jamaat Khana was built<br />

here during Alauddin Khilji’s reign(AD<br />

1295-1315). Saint Nizamuddin Auliya,<br />

meditated at a spot along the river and<br />

a chillagah was built at the site which is<br />

adjacent to the site where Humayun’s<br />

Tomb came up two centuries later.<br />

The presence of Nizamuddin Auliya<br />

resulted in many people choosing<br />

to live in this settlement or visit this<br />

area to pay homage to him. A baoli<br />

was added in AD 1320, to serve the<br />

needs (drinking water) of the local<br />

community and pilgrims and also for<br />

wuzu (ablutions) prior to prayers at<br />

the mosque, indicating that by this time<br />

there was already a large population in<br />

Ghiaspur and an even larger volume of<br />

pilgrims. After the death of Nizamuddin<br />

Auliya, he was buried in the courtyard<br />

of the Jamaat Khana mosque and the<br />

village of Ghiaspur came to be known<br />

as ‘Nizampur’. Within six months of the<br />

death of the saint, his favourite disciple,<br />

the great poet, Amir Khusro too died,<br />

unable to bear the grief of the loss of<br />

his spiritual master and was buried<br />

within the complex.<br />

d<br />

Later during the<br />

Mughal period, the<br />

area surrounding<br />

the baoli of Hazrat<br />

Nizamuddin Auliya<br />

was built up with the<br />

southern arcade dating<br />

from AD 1379-80.<br />

a. Lal Mahal, Nizamuddin<br />

Dargah Settlement<br />

b. The part facade of Jamaat<br />

Khana mosque in the<br />

Nizamuddin Dargah Settlement.<br />

c. Map showing early<br />

developments in the<br />

Nizamuddin Dargah settlement<br />

d. Baoli within the Nizamuddin<br />

Dargah Settlement<br />

a. Map showing Sultunate<br />

period developments in<br />

the Nizamuddin Dargah<br />

settlement.<br />

a<br />

b. Map showing Suri<br />

period developments in<br />

the Nizamuddin Dargah<br />

A Kot abutting the walled settlement to<br />

the south was constructed in the mid<br />

14th century. Two major structures<br />

that still survive here were built during<br />

the Tughlaq period, Kalan Masjid<br />

in AD 1370-1 and the tomb of Khan<br />

Jahan Junan Shah Tilangani, the Prime<br />

Minister of Firoz Shah Tughlaq, located<br />

within the Kot is the earliest octagonal<br />

tomb in India.<br />

The main spine or the major<br />

thoroughfares connect the main gates<br />

of the settlement to the main elements<br />

within the settlement identified as<br />

the dargah, the bazaar, the kot and<br />

Kalan Masjid. The earliest road in the<br />

settlement led from the north gate of<br />

the village enclosure connecting the<br />

dargah to the north eastern gate of the<br />

Kot through the bazaar street. A later<br />

development was the road intersecting<br />

it at right angles just outside the north<br />

eastern gateway to the Kot giving access<br />

to the Kalan Masjid and the Imambara<br />

and leading from the eastern gateway<br />

to the south western gateway of the<br />

village enclosure (perhaps the route of<br />

the Tazia procession) The main direct<br />

b<br />

access to the dargah was from the north<br />

western gateway but the dargah was<br />

also connected through the eastern<br />

gateway of Amir Khusro’s enclosure.<br />

Building activity in the area continued<br />

through the Lodi period and some<br />

surviving structures built during this<br />

period are the Barahkhambha, Gol<br />

Gumbad and Do Sirihya Gumbad.<br />

Urban morphology<br />

Within the walled enclosure was an<br />

intricate pattern of streets, galis and cul<br />

de sacs, all at a pedestrian, human scale.<br />

A network of narrow Mohalla streets<br />

or galis provides access and linkages<br />

to the main quarters and houses. These<br />

were used mainly by people of the<br />

mohalla. These narrow galis ended in<br />

cul-de-sacs, owned and shared by the<br />

users. The galis are characterised by<br />

varying widths and periodic changes<br />

in direction. The urban morphology<br />

is characterised by streets with<br />

changing levels and ramps or steps,<br />

varying building heights and entrance<br />

doorways.<br />

20<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 21


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

b<br />

a<br />

c<br />

a<br />

c<br />

d<br />

Later during the Mughal period, the<br />

area surrounding the baoli of Hazrat<br />

Nizamuddin Auliya was built up with<br />

the southern arcade dating from AD<br />

1379-80. In the 16th century, the Grand<br />

Trunk Road which stretched from the<br />

eastern end of India to Peshawar and<br />

beyond in the west, passed through<br />

the Nizamuddin area. Thus with the<br />

river along its eastern edge and the GT<br />

Road passing through it, Nizamuddin<br />

was located on major medieval<br />

transport arteries, which enhanced its<br />

importance.<br />

The tomb of Bai Kokaldai, standing<br />

on the western edge of Hazrat<br />

Nizamuddin Baoli was built later in AD<br />

1541. Atgah Khan, ‘who was present<br />

when Humayun was defeated by Sher<br />

Shah Sur and aided the emperor in<br />

his escape from the field of battle’ was<br />

buried in AD 1566-7, in close proximity<br />

to the tomb of Hazrat Nizamuddin<br />

Auliya. His jewel like tomb is covered<br />

with a unique inlay of tile work in<br />

marble. The emperor Shahjahan’s<br />

daughter Jahanara, who died in 1681<br />

was also buried here followed by the<br />

emperor Muhammad Shah who died in<br />

1748. In the 19th century prominent<br />

buildings such as the dalan of Mirdha<br />

Ikram (1801) and the grave enclosure<br />

of Mirza Jahangir (son of Akbar II)<br />

who died in 1832 were also added to<br />

the grave enclosure. The famous 19th<br />

century poet Mirza Ghalib was also<br />

buried in close proximity of Chausath<br />

Khamba.<br />

By this point other movement networks<br />

developed like Ghalib Road which led<br />

from an entrance in the north eastern<br />

enclosure wall of Chausath Khamba and<br />

Urs Mahal enclosure where qawwalis<br />

were held during Urs. Another road<br />

from the eastern enclosure walls to the<br />

dargah area past Chausath Khamba<br />

leads from Humayun’s Tomb and Arabki-serai<br />

complex.<br />

Bazaar Street<br />

A unique character of the main street<br />

leading from the main chowk to the<br />

dargah was that of a chatta street<br />

with flower sellers and items of<br />

worships. The 14th century structures<br />

had a high projecting stone plinth,<br />

a. Map showing Mughal<br />

period developments in the<br />

Nizamuddin Dargah settlement.<br />

b. Dargah of the Sufi saint<br />

Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya<br />

c. Tomb of Khan Jahan Junan<br />

Shah Tilangani<br />

d. Barakhamba on the outskirts<br />

of the Nizamuddin settlement.<br />

b<br />

a. Marble Jalis inside Chausath<br />

Khamba.<br />

b. Randon rubble masonry core<br />

with red sandstone jalis.<br />

c. Chausath Khamba.<br />

pointed arched openings in rubble<br />

masonry walls plastered over and lime<br />

washed. Adjacent to the 14th century<br />

structures, the later Mughal structures<br />

followed the same building module but<br />

with different detailing.<br />

Building Materials and Construction<br />

Technology<br />

Different materials were used for<br />

different structures. The most<br />

commonly used building material<br />

was the <strong>Delhi</strong> quartzite; red, yellow<br />

and spotted sandstone and Lakhauri<br />

bricks. More elaborate buildings had<br />

marble, a variety of decorative stone<br />

and tiles. The load bearing walls were<br />

up to 50 cms in thickness and were<br />

built with an inner core of irregular<br />

stone with dressed quartzite or<br />

sandstone facing. Some walls were<br />

plastered with up to 5 cm of Lime<br />

Plaster. Examples are also found of dry<br />

dressed stone masonry, held together<br />

with iron clamps. The walls were<br />

spanned over with vaults, domes and<br />

arched systems. The most commonly<br />

seen vaults were the cloister and cradle<br />

and groin vaults spanning 1.5 - 4.0<br />

m widths. Domes were supported on<br />

squinches and pendentives. Often the<br />

roof was of sandstone slabs spanning<br />

the beams supported on sandstone<br />

brackets that projected from the wall.<br />

Over the roof, dry sand was compacted<br />

and finished over with lime plaster to<br />

give a flat, usable terrace. Side walls<br />

were projected to form a parapet for<br />

the terrace.<br />

Residential quarters<br />

Dwelling units varied from the havelis<br />

of prominent persons to single roomed<br />

units of the poor. The Mughal period<br />

havelis varied from two to three storeys<br />

in height, had several courtyards<br />

including one at the entrance, and<br />

incorporated jalis( screens) in windows<br />

and balconies. Elaborate arched<br />

entrance doorways gave access from<br />

the street outside into the courtyard.<br />

Enclosing the courtyards were single<br />

storied arched dalans. The havelis were<br />

often decorated with fine late Mughal<br />

moulded and incised plaster decoration.<br />

22<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 23


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

Nizamuddin Precinct<br />

During the Sayyoid and Lodi period in<br />

the 15th and 16th centuries, there was<br />

a spate of tomb building in the vicinity<br />

of the saint’s dargah, even though<br />

some of the significant royal tombs of<br />

these two dynasties were built almost<br />

a mile east of the Dargah of Hazrat<br />

Nizamuddin Auliya.<br />

The immediate precinct of the<br />

dargah settlement saw the maximum<br />

development with the coming of the<br />

Mughals in 1526, who built a number<br />

of garden tombs. The area boasts of<br />

some of the earliest buildings of the<br />

Mughal dynasty. Nila Gumbad (blue<br />

domed structure) is certainly the<br />

earliest building built by the Mughals<br />

in <strong>Delhi</strong>. Located a few yards south<br />

of Hazrat Nizamuddin’s chillagah, on<br />

a river island, the dome, its tile work<br />

and plasterwork are all reminiscent of<br />

Persian influence. Another tomb, the<br />

Sabz Burj, literally ‘green dome’, now<br />

standing in a traffic island on Mathura<br />

Road is contemporary to Nila Gumbad<br />

and pre-dates Humayun’s Tomb.<br />

Emperor Humayun chose to build his<br />

capital city, Dinpanah or ‘refuge of the<br />

faithful’, north of Hazrat Nizamuddin’s<br />

Dargah in 1533. The city walls had<br />

barely been built when Humayun was<br />

ousted in 1540, by Sher Shah Sur who<br />

continued to build the fortifications<br />

and the citadel, now known as Purana<br />

Qila or Old Fort. Sher Shah also built<br />

the striking Qila-i-Kohna Mosque<br />

within the citadel.<br />

Isa Khan Niyazi, a nobleman at the<br />

court of Sher Shah Sur, was buried in<br />

the immediate vicinity of the dargah<br />

settlement in an octagonal garden<br />

enclosure in AD 1547-8. Isa Khan<br />

Niyazi’s Tomb enclosure was the<br />

culmination of the octagonal style of<br />

tomb building. It also has the earliest<br />

sunken garden in India pre-dating<br />

Emperor Akbar’s tomb in Sikandra,<br />

Agra - the most famous existent<br />

example - by over a century.<br />

A small tomb, locally known as the<br />

Barber’s Tomb, now standing within<br />

the walled enclosure of Humayun’s<br />

Tomb, pre-dates Humayun’s Tomb, and<br />

displays local architectural traditions<br />

–red-white contrast using sandstone<br />

and marble - used earlier at Alai<br />

Darwaza and Ghiasuddin Tughlaq’s<br />

tomb. Humayun’s Tomb was built<br />

between the River Yamuna on its east<br />

and the Grand Trunk road to its west,<br />

in the 1560s by his son, the great<br />

Emperor Akbar. The tomb standing<br />

within a walled garden enclosure of 26<br />

acres, is the first of the grand dynastic<br />

mausoleums that were to become<br />

synonyms of Mughal architecture. This<br />

architectural style reached its zenith<br />

many decades later at the later Mughal<br />

tomb, the Taj Mahal.<br />

Humayun’s Tomb dwarfs any tomb<br />

built in <strong>Delhi</strong> during the three centuries<br />

of Muslim rule that preceded the<br />

Mughals. Never before in the Islamic<br />

world had a tomb been built on such<br />

scale, with red sandstone and white<br />

marble. The architect, Mirak Mirza<br />

Ghiyath, of Persian descent, who came<br />

from Herat in present day Afghanistan,<br />

used the red-white contrast to great<br />

effect with white ‘marble-like’ lime<br />

plaster covering portions of the façade<br />

that were not clad with stone such<br />

as the faces of lower niches and the<br />

domes of the four comer canopies.<br />

Humayun’s Tomb remained a place of<br />

pilgrimage for the Mughal emperors<br />

Akbar, Jahangir, Shahjahan who made<br />

frequent visits to pay their respects.<br />

Humayun’s garden-tomb is also called<br />

the ‘dormitory of the Mughals’ as in the<br />

cells are buried over 150 members of<br />

the Mughal family, all in un-inscribed<br />

graves in the lower cells.<br />

a<br />

b<br />

a. Khairpur Tomb now in Lodi<br />

Garden © ASI<br />

b. Rahim’s Tomb<br />

a b c<br />

d<br />

a. Arab ki Sarai<br />

b. Sunderwala Burj<br />

c. Humayuns Tomb with Barber’s<br />

Tomb in the foreground<br />

d. Facade of Nila Gumbad<br />

While Humayun’s Tomb was being built,<br />

just outside the western enclosure<br />

wall, two significant buildings - a tomb<br />

and a three bay wide mosque - known<br />

as Afsarwala Tomb and Mosque were<br />

also being constructed. It is not known<br />

who commissioned these or if they<br />

stood in an independent enclosure.<br />

Haji Begum brought with her three<br />

hundred Arabs from her pilgrimage to<br />

Mecca, and the ‘Arab Serai’ was built to<br />

house these families.<br />

It was during the early Mughal era<br />

and Emperor Akbar’s reign, following<br />

the building of Humayun’s Tomb, that<br />

several prominent structures were<br />

built in the Nizamuddin area. Important<br />

16th / early 17th century structures<br />

included the enclosed garden tombs of<br />

Bu Halima, ‘Batashewala’ Complex and<br />

the ‘Sunderwala’ complex.<br />

It is not known who ‘Bu Halima’ was<br />

but her tomb is entered through a<br />

lofty gateway standing opposite the<br />

western gateway of the Humayun’s<br />

Tomb complex, off-center to her own<br />

tomb , suggesting it dates from just<br />

after the building of Humayun’s Tomb.<br />

The tomb of Muzaffar Husain Mirza,<br />

grand-nephew of Emperor Humayun<br />

was built in AD 1603 and is today<br />

known as Bara Batashewala Mahal.<br />

Another tomb, now known as Chotta<br />

Batashewala stands alongside<br />

Muzaffar Husain Mirza’s tomb.<br />

The ‘Sunderwala complex’, another<br />

tomb- garden enclosure, includes the<br />

two tombs now known as Sunderwala<br />

Burj and Sunderwala Mahal and though<br />

it is today unknown who these were<br />

built for, the architectural style and the<br />

ornamentation contained within date<br />

these to the 16th/17th century, i.e., the<br />

early Mughal era. ‘Sunderwala Mahal’ is<br />

the only other example of a square tomb<br />

chamber surrounded by eight rooms<br />

with five half-domed openings on each<br />

façade. A few hundred yards north of<br />

the Arab Serai was another Mughal<br />

Serai, known as Azimganj, within the<br />

area today occupied by Government<br />

Sundar Nursery.<br />

Over half a century after the building<br />

of Humayun’s Tomb, the tomb of Khani-Khanan<br />

Abdur Rahim Khan, the son<br />

of Bairam Khan, who was the tutor of<br />

Emperor Akbar was built a few hundred<br />

yards south of Humayun’s Tomb.<br />

Through the 18th and 19th centuries,<br />

tomb building continued in the vicinity<br />

but large garden-tombs were followed<br />

by only smaller structures such as those<br />

dotting the <strong>Delhi</strong> Golf Club.<br />

24<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 25


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

3<br />

Shahjahanabad Zone<br />

(Mid seventeenth century)<br />

The walled Shahjahanabad is the<br />

capital city established by the Mughal<br />

Emperor Shahjahan, under whom<br />

Mughal architecture reached its<br />

apogee. An important part of the city<br />

was the palace fortress now called the<br />

Red Fort; Around this palace complex<br />

was built a grand walled city, named<br />

Shahjahanabad (literally ‘established<br />

by Shahjahan’) after its royal founder.<br />

The layout of Shahjahanabad was<br />

influenced by ancient Hindu texts as<br />

well as medieval Persian traditions.<br />

A salient feature of this walled city is<br />

that though the pattern of land use was<br />

totally urban, it was still essentially a<br />

pedestrian city retaining a human scale.<br />

The residential areas were developed<br />

as introvert spaces, as independent<br />

social and environmental entities, while<br />

commercial activities grew along the<br />

spines, closer to areas of administrative<br />

a<br />

or institutional importance.<br />

The original extent of the city as<br />

designed during the Mughal period<br />

forms part of the core area proposed for<br />

Nomination as the World <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>City</strong><br />

of <strong>Delhi</strong>.<br />

Traditional <strong>City</strong> Planning<br />

The choice of site appears to have been<br />

dictated by the availability of high<br />

land on the western bank of the River<br />

Yamuna and the natural protection<br />

provided by triangle formed by the<br />

two arms of the Aravalli ranges known<br />

as the Jhojla and Bhojla Paharis and<br />

the River Yamuna. Geographically, the<br />

location was ideal, not only from the<br />

point of view of protection but also as a<br />

convergence of important land routes.<br />

The city of Shahjahanabd comprises<br />

of an encircling city wall, more than<br />

8 kilometers long, and pierced by a<br />

number of gates and wickets. Built<br />

in the late seventeenth century, the<br />

city form has survived with relatively<br />

a<br />

minor change to the present times.<br />

The Manasara, one of the Hindu texts<br />

on architecture collectively called<br />

the Vastu Shastra, prescribes a bowshaped<br />

form for a city on a river, and<br />

this is the plan that Shahjahanabad<br />

roughly followed. The eastern wall of<br />

the city, parallel to the river, could be<br />

viewed as the string of the bow, and<br />

parallel to this ran the main northsouth<br />

street, linking the Kashmir gate<br />

in the north with the <strong>Delhi</strong> gate in the<br />

south. The other main street of the city<br />

could be viewed as the arrow placed<br />

in the bow, running from the main<br />

entrance to the Red Fort (which was<br />

located approximately midway along<br />

the eastern wall of the city) westwards<br />

to the Fatehpuri mosque. The palace<br />

complex therefore stood at the junction<br />

of the main north-south and east-west<br />

axes, where in the Hindu text a temple<br />

would have been located.<br />

b<br />

c<br />

a. Map of Shahjahanabad showing<br />

the natural features and lie<br />

of the land.<br />

b. Turkman Gate<br />

c. Kashmiri Gate<br />

26<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 27


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

In this arrangement the main<br />

congregational mosque of the city, the<br />

Jama Masjid, was located on a height<br />

fairly close to the palace complex, but<br />

off-centre with regard to the main<br />

streets. In terms of Persian texts such<br />

as the Rasa’il-e-Ikhwan-us-Safa, which<br />

viewed ideal city plans as mirroring<br />

the anatomy of man, the Jama Masjid<br />

would be the heart in relation to the Red<br />

Fort which was the head, and the eastwest<br />

street which was the backbone.<br />

The plan of Shahjahanabad therefore<br />

clearly shows both Hindu and Persian<br />

Sufi influences, in keeping with the<br />

long <strong>Delhi</strong> tradition of synthesis, and<br />

the general Mughal polity of liberality<br />

and inclusion vis a vis Hindu subjects.<br />

Key Architectural Elements<br />

The foundation of Red Fort was laid<br />

in 1639, and the emperor entering<br />

it ceremonially in 1648. After the<br />

erection of the Red Fort, the first<br />

feature, Fatehpuri Masjid, was erected<br />

in 1650 by the begum of Shahjahan one<br />

mile due west of the palace’s Lahore<br />

gate.<br />

Soon thereafter, she began the second,<br />

private gardens some 54 acres to the<br />

north of the pathway leading from Lal<br />

Qila to Fatehpuri Masjid.<br />

This ceremonial pathway developed<br />

into the third element, Chandni Chowk,<br />

where bullion merchants and other<br />

important men took up residence and<br />

maintained retail outlets. Important<br />

public buildings were located along it<br />

among them the kotwali(main police<br />

station), Sunehri Masjid, a mosque<br />

built in 1721-22 by a nobleman and<br />

a caravanserai. The Emperor rode in<br />

state along it every Friday to pray at<br />

Fatehpuri Masjid and thus the path<br />

became a ceremonial mall. A branch of<br />

River Yamuna ran down the middle and<br />

with large canopied trees alongside<br />

and footbridges over the canal it<br />

became the favorite gathering place in<br />

evening and on festive occasions.<br />

a<br />

This ceremonial street was divided into<br />

three sections by two historic squares.<br />

The one nearest to the fort was<br />

originally called Kotwali Chowk, but is<br />

today known popularly as Phawwara<br />

chowk after the phawwara or fountain<br />

established here in the 1870s. The<br />

chowk is associated with important<br />

episodes in the history of the city and<br />

of the Mughal Empire. The Gurudwara<br />

Sisganj on this chowk marks the spot<br />

of the execution of Guru Teg Bahadur;<br />

the 9th Guru of the Sikhs who was<br />

put to death in 1675 on the orders of<br />

the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb for<br />

his attempts to found an independent<br />

Sikh state. Also, it was on the steps of<br />

Sunehri Masjid that the Persian invader<br />

Nadir Shah sat in 1739 to witness the<br />

massacre of the populace of the city<br />

that he had ordered. The area north<br />

of Chandni Chowk remained as large<br />

private estates of the nobility, with<br />

the exclusion of the north-west sector,<br />

where a spatial pattern similar to that<br />

south of Chandni Chowk prevailed.<br />

b<br />

a. Map of Shahjahanabad showing<br />

the location of buildings<br />

before the walled city was built.<br />

b. Chandni Chowk was an<br />

important thoroughfare with<br />

shops lining the roads and<br />

residences above, interspersed<br />

with chowk (squares), gateways<br />

to mansions and lanes.<br />

© British Library<br />

a<br />

a<br />

b<br />

a. Map of Shahjahanabad<br />

showing the main axis and the<br />

key features.<br />

b. The Jama Masjid at <strong>Delhi</strong>.<br />

from the north-east.<br />

© British Library<br />

b<br />

Between 1644 and 1658 Shahjahan<br />

built a great mosque, Jama Masjid( the<br />

fourth landmark) about one-half mile<br />

southwest of the principal palace gate.<br />

It became the congregational mosque<br />

of the city, and continues today to orient<br />

visually because it lies upon a rocky<br />

outcrop above the general plain of the<br />

city. The emperor himself appointed its<br />

functionaries and paid for its upkeep<br />

out of the royal exchequer. A relatively<br />

short but important street connected<br />

the south gate of the palace fortress to<br />

this mosque. The function of the street<br />

as a route for ceremonial processions<br />

was continued into British colonial<br />

times. On occasions like the durbars,<br />

the state procession went from the Red<br />

Fort past the Jama Masjid into Chandni<br />

Chowk. At other times this street, all<br />

the way up to the steps of the mosque,<br />

was a lively social space thronging with<br />

purveyors of exotic goods, street foods,<br />

story tellers and street performers.<br />

The fifth feature is Faiz Bazaar, a<br />

leisure mall that developed between<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> Gate of the palace and <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

Gate in the city wall. In later years, this<br />

became the principal north-south route<br />

through the city connecting Civil Lines<br />

and New <strong>Delhi</strong>. To the east of this street<br />

lies Daryaganj, literally ‘the mart by<br />

the river’, where grain and other goods<br />

were unloaded from boats plying on the<br />

River Yamuna.<br />

The last nodal element is Qasi Hauz,<br />

the main water reservoir, situated at<br />

the junction of four important bazaars.<br />

These six elements, in conjunction with<br />

the locations of the city gates, yield<br />

clues to the hierarchical structure of<br />

the existing street pattern and spatial<br />

distribution of the population<br />

Urban Morphology<br />

The formal geometry of the walled city<br />

governed by the strategic location of<br />

the six key architectural elements was<br />

not followed in the rest of the walled<br />

city. Nor was the formal hierarchy of<br />

space attempted in these areas. The<br />

city’s strategic location and defensive<br />

perimeter attracted residents from the<br />

older and less secure settlements to the<br />

south so that the quadrant bounded<br />

by Chandni Chowk, Faiz Bazaar, and<br />

the city wall was built up. Thus a basic<br />

network of five major arterials leading<br />

from the six key elements and other<br />

gates to different parts of the walled city<br />

were built as spines of major activity.<br />

Paths linking the gates in the city<br />

walls to Fatehpuri Masjid, Qasi Hauz,<br />

Jama Masjid and Kalan Masjid(built by<br />

emperor Firoz Shah in 1386) became<br />

definite streets and finally important<br />

bazaars.<br />

All the streets, apart from formally<br />

laid Chandni Chowk, twist and turn,<br />

providing visual enclosure as well as<br />

a sequence of experiences. The ‘street’<br />

was treated as an extension of activity<br />

spaces in addition to its function as a<br />

spaces in addition to its function as a<br />

corridor of movement. The junction of<br />

two streets automatically formed into a<br />

28<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 29


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

‘chowk’ often for a pause in movement<br />

and for better communication.<br />

terrace development, but maintaining<br />

distinctly separate identities.<br />

The other streets were of a significantly<br />

lower hierarchy and these were built<br />

mainly as access roads to the residential<br />

areas. In most cases, the access roads<br />

would not provide through routes,<br />

ensuring not only privacy and security<br />

but also controlling the volume and<br />

movement of traffic. The network<br />

also created social areas, known as<br />

mohallas, katras and kuchas. These<br />

were homogenous units for cultural as<br />

well as socio-economic activities.<br />

c<br />

The first floor of most of the houses<br />

projected over streets, providing<br />

balconies with delicate semitransparent<br />

balustrades. Sometimes<br />

the balconies of two opposing houses<br />

were connected to form enclosures of<br />

space along vertical plane. Considerable<br />

homogeneity in the moldings of<br />

brackets and balustrades existed in a<br />

e<br />

katra or kucha. It is possible that local<br />

craftsmanship ensured the continuity<br />

in tradition.<br />

The area beside the river just north of<br />

the palace fortress was a prime area<br />

where the highest nobility and princes<br />

built their mansions. These included<br />

prince Dara Shikoh, the favourite<br />

son of Shahjahan, and Shahjahan’s<br />

minister Ali Mardan Khan. Portions<br />

of the city near the walls remained<br />

afairly open providing space for fruit<br />

gardens, dairies and work space for<br />

people following low caste operations<br />

(sweepers, potters and leather<br />

workers).<br />

Markets and bazaars<br />

Rich entrepreneurs established<br />

bazaars and commercial streets, where<br />

shopkeepers and traders also often<br />

had their residences. Some specialist<br />

markets include Dariba Kalan, the gold<br />

and silver ware market; Kinari bazaar,<br />

the gilt and sequin market; Khari<br />

Baoli, the spice market; Katra Neel,<br />

the fabrics market and many more. In<br />

addition, a number of lesser bazaars<br />

developed, linking Chandni Chowk<br />

with the interior of the city, completing<br />

a network of streets and lanes.<br />

Zoning into katras and kuchas<br />

In the interstices of the main<br />

arteries and landmarks, the city<br />

grew organically. Some pre-existing<br />

settlements such as the area stretching<br />

from Turkman Gate to Khari Baoli<br />

had also been incorporated into the<br />

b<br />

a<br />

limits of the walled city. Adapting<br />

zoning (a long accepted principle of<br />

town planning, Shahjahanabad was<br />

divided into separate quarters for<br />

distinct occupations and not social<br />

or ethnic groups). This zoning was<br />

according to occupations, industries<br />

and commerce. Badiwara, Daiwara,<br />

Naiwara, Dhobiwara and Maliwara<br />

were the quarters of the doctors,<br />

midwives, barbers, washer men and<br />

gardeners respectively. There were<br />

separate wings called ‘katras’ for<br />

each class of tradesmen and guilds of<br />

craftsmen. According to a survey, there<br />

are 999 katras in the walled city. Each<br />

katra is a space enclosure created by<br />

buildings used both for residential<br />

and commercial use, entry is usually<br />

through a gate by a street from major<br />

spine, which was built wide enough<br />

for the pedestrian movement. Next<br />

in hierarchy is a lane of narrower<br />

width lateral to a street leading to a<br />

kucha which formed an enclosure of<br />

buildings used only for residential use.<br />

Thus these enclosures created a graded<br />

a. Map of Shahjahanabad showing<br />

the location of buildings,<br />

built between 1750 to 1850.<br />

a<br />

a. Map of Shahjahanabad<br />

showing the planned part of<br />

the city around 1850.<br />

transition from public, semi-public to<br />

private uses. Neither in katra nor in<br />

kucha, was vehicular traffic allowed.<br />

Residential Built form<br />

Many of the elite carved out large<br />

estates that housed their families, their<br />

dependants and employees, and even<br />

karkhanas – workshops. Many people<br />

of a lower socio-economic status –<br />

shopkeepers, artisans, workmen and<br />

service providers of all sorts built their<br />

homes between these estates.<br />

Due to social norms of a joint family<br />

system, large houses were built,<br />

introvert in character. These houses<br />

were built with high plinth and for<br />

entry, a short flight of steps. The height<br />

of the plinth increased as the width of<br />

the access lane narrowed down. The<br />

dictates of privacy were so strong that<br />

the roof lines of the buildings were<br />

invariably non-uniform in silhouette.<br />

The degree of richness in detail and<br />

ornamentation could set the house<br />

apart. The street picture was almost a<br />

The main entrance to the traditional<br />

house has always been treated as an<br />

important element of design. The<br />

emphasis of entrance was created by<br />

an arched opening and the door panels<br />

were treated with rich decoration<br />

in metal and wood. The entrance<br />

invariably led to a central courtyard<br />

which ensured domestic privacy and<br />

activity pattern within such a house<br />

was central to the courtyard.<br />

Approximately 25 percent of the area<br />

in the walled city was used for these<br />

internal courtyards. The courtyards and<br />

roofs terraces served as the recreational<br />

open space to the households, suitable<br />

for outdoor sleeping and for activities<br />

like kite flying and pigeon baiting, and<br />

for children to play within the enclosure<br />

of their own house in relative safety.<br />

By the early eighteen century, the<br />

city had three distinguishable sectors<br />

(excluding Lal Quila)<br />

o Area north of Chandni Chowk<br />

with its gardens, villas and palaces of<br />

aristocracy.<br />

o Daryaganj sector, east of Faiz<br />

Bazaar, where European merchants,<br />

clergy and native Christians had settled<br />

early, and<br />

o Quadrant south of Chandni<br />

Chowk, where the bulk of the<br />

inhabitants resided and worked.<br />

30<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 31


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

4<br />

New <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

(Early twenteenth century)<br />

a<br />

The design of the new imperial capital,<br />

popularly known as New <strong>Delhi</strong>,<br />

incorporated the priority of the colonial<br />

political class to provide an urbanscape<br />

in conformity with their imperial vision.<br />

The resultant design of the capital of<br />

the erstwhile British Empire, dominated<br />

by the central vista, redefined the<br />

architecture and urbanism of <strong>Delhi</strong> in<br />

the process of addressing contemporary<br />

imperatives. The layout and design<br />

reflects the fusion of the two dominant<br />

themes of early twentieth century city<br />

planning – the <strong>City</strong> Beautiful (vistas) and<br />

the Garden <strong>City</strong> (verdure), concepts that<br />

had world relevance in city planning<br />

of the early twentieth century. It owed<br />

inspiration to Baron Haussmann’s Paris<br />

and French engineer Pierre L’Enfant’s<br />

Washington D.C., created in 1789. The<br />

genius of the design therefore lies in its<br />

integration of vista and verdure.<br />

In the architecture of the buildings<br />

Indian elements and motifs were used,<br />

drawing inspiration from Buddhist<br />

religious complexes on the one hand,<br />

and Mughal buildings on the other. The<br />

overwhelming aesthetic within which<br />

these elements were deployed captured<br />

the spirit of syncretism evident in <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

for many centuries- a synthesis of<br />

Western classical geometry and Indian<br />

motifs.<br />

The area being nominated as part of the<br />

World <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>City</strong> of <strong>Delhi</strong>, has as its<br />

core the original layout as was designed<br />

and built by the architects with the ridge<br />

forming a backdrop for the central vista<br />

and its iconic buildings.<br />

a. Washington and New <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

Compared<br />

32<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 33


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

a<br />

a<br />

b<br />

Location<br />

Several locations were considered,<br />

and rejected. Present day Coronation<br />

Park and the location of the durbar<br />

announcing the shift of the new capital<br />

to <strong>Delhi</strong> was declared uninteresting<br />

and unhealthy as also liable to flooding.<br />

Sabzi Mandi was better, but acquisition<br />

of the factory areas would annoy mill<br />

owners. Civil Lines, similarly, would<br />

antagonize the European population,<br />

which would have to be evicted. For<br />

reasons of health, for its undulating<br />

land, for the space it provided, and<br />

for its relationship with many historic<br />

sites, the Raisina village area and hill<br />

were finally selected. The site was in<br />

close physical and general association<br />

with the walled city of Shahjahanabad<br />

and the <strong>Delhi</strong>s of the past.<br />

From the top of Raisina hill there was a<br />

magnificent view embracing old <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

and all of the principal monuments<br />

situated outside the town, with River<br />

Yamuna at a little distance. The hill top<br />

was considered the ideal site for the<br />

Viceregal House.<br />

Layout and Planning<br />

British architects Edwin Lutyens<br />

(1869-1944) and Herbert Baker<br />

prepared the Master Plan for New<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> in 1912-13, and Lutyens used a<br />

combination of two separate geometric<br />

systems. One of these was a hexagonal<br />

pattern which linked governmental,<br />

commercial and recreational activities<br />

with the residential areas. The other<br />

grid was a monumental one along<br />

Central Vista, which in turn, linked<br />

the capital complex marked by the<br />

a. New <strong>Delhi</strong> layout emphasizing<br />

its link to the historic cities.<br />

a. Garden <strong>City</strong>, a popular<br />

concept of the early twentieth<br />

century.<br />

b. Layout of New <strong>Delhi</strong> as conceptualized<br />

by the architects,<br />

avenues of the <strong>City</strong> Beautiful<br />

were combined with the<br />

Garden <strong>City</strong> Concept to create<br />

the finest fully designed and<br />

built capital city between the<br />

two walls.<br />

Viceregal House on Raisina hill with<br />

the War Memorial (now India Gate)<br />

serving as a kind of symbolic entry<br />

from the riverside.<br />

The plan is distinguished for the visual<br />

reference that it has with aspects<br />

of historic <strong>Delhi</strong>. One avenue, now<br />

Parliament Street, is linked to Jama<br />

Masjid, while the Central Vista unified,<br />

visually speaking, the Viceregal House<br />

with Purana Qila. The city of New <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

extended to the walls of Shahjahanabad<br />

in the north, was bounded on the east<br />

by the River Yamuna, the remains of<br />

Ferozshah Kotla and Purana Qila, and<br />

Humayun’s tomb and to the west by<br />

the ridge. The site had a width of about<br />

4.5 miles, narrowing as it approached<br />

Old <strong>Delhi</strong> to 2.5 miles. The focus point,<br />

the Viceregal house is sited on Raisina<br />

The most characteristic image of<br />

the Imperial Capital is the formal<br />

centrepiece, Rajpath (originally<br />

Kingsway) axis. The ‘Great Place’ (Vijay<br />

Chowk), which formed a cross axis at<br />

the foot of Raisina was conceived as<br />

a public forum, and from it Kingsway<br />

(now Rajpath) swept eastward to a<br />

hexagonal round-about, Princes Place/<br />

India Gate. A commemorative column,<br />

eventually the site of the canopy and<br />

statue of King George V, was the focal<br />

point of the roads and avenues on the<br />

parkway, at India Gate. The main cross<br />

axis, Queensway (now Janpath) runs<br />

south from the business district located<br />

at Connaught Place. A group of four<br />

important public buildings was to mark<br />

the crossing of the Rajpath and Janpath.<br />

34<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 35


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Description of the Nominated Area<br />

a<br />

in New <strong>Delhi</strong> is such that up to twelve<br />

rows of trees are planted along them so<br />

as to provide sufficient shade.<br />

ten acres gross of land developed, truly<br />

made <strong>Delhi</strong>, a Garden <strong>City</strong> of spacious<br />

proportions.<br />

a<br />

West of Viceregal House is the<br />

Viceregal Estate, bounded by the<br />

curve of Willingdon Crescent, and the<br />

forested ridge beyond.<br />

An integral feature of the layout is<br />

the range of avenues, from a modest<br />

60 feet to 300 hundred feet, with the<br />

grand axis of 440 feet and planted<br />

parkways of several avenues of trees.<br />

A critical component of this plan is<br />

the road section - the avenue planting<br />

in relationship to the carriageways<br />

and footways and the impervious<br />

waterproof surfaces used for all the<br />

main avenues and roads. A secondary<br />

system of the angled avenues, which<br />

‘enclose the Imperial centre are the<br />

outer main sinews of the frame’. The<br />

main avenues were laid well in advance<br />

of the buildings.<br />

As much attention was devoted to<br />

the detail of the tree planting of<br />

the city as was to its city planning<br />

and architecture. The setting was<br />

considered as important as the<br />

buildings and there was close<br />

collaboration with the horticulturalist.<br />

Tree species were specially selected<br />

for all of the new city. The spacing of<br />

the trees along the avenues was also<br />

carefully decided. The planting along<br />

each road was devoted to a single<br />

species, creating a visual impression<br />

of spaciousness. In further pursuit<br />

of a design unity, although a list of<br />

approximately 120 trees was drawn up<br />

as suitable for planting in New <strong>Delhi</strong>,<br />

only approximately sixteen species<br />

were used in the roadside planting of<br />

the entire new city. The species chosen<br />

were Indian natives, thus giving to the<br />

city a decidedly Indian ambience. An<br />

overriding principle in considering<br />

roadside planting was the provision<br />

of shade. This is evident in New <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

in that the overwhelming majority of<br />

trees species chosen were evergreen<br />

or semi-evergreen for shade. In order<br />

that wider roads benefited from treeshade,<br />

up to six trees were planted<br />

along the cross section of the road.<br />

The width of the ceremonial avenues<br />

b<br />

a. Lutyens’ Master Plan for New<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> combined the aesthetics<br />

of the <strong>City</strong> Beautiful Movement<br />

and the ecological benefits<br />

of the Garden <strong>City</strong> Movement<br />

through a network of diagonal<br />

street patterns which became<br />

emblamatic of the image of the<br />

city.<br />

© Imperial <strong>Delhi</strong>; Andreas<br />

Volwahsen<br />

b. Elevation of All India War<br />

Memorial Arch.<br />

© Imperial <strong>Delhi</strong>; Andreas<br />

Volwahsen<br />

b<br />

c<br />

a. Typical cross-sections of the<br />

avenues and roads proposed<br />

for New <strong>Delhi</strong>.<br />

b. Bungalows of the Colonial<br />

Period.<br />

c. The Bungalow Zone has a<br />

character of a Garden <strong>City</strong>.<br />

A further principle that appears to have<br />

been adhered to is the extension of the<br />

symmetry that characterised many of<br />

New <strong>Delhi</strong>’s principal buildings into<br />

the tree planting in the streets around<br />

them further integrating the principles<br />

of architectural and landscape design<br />

employed in the design of the new city.<br />

Matching tree species flank Rashtrapati<br />

Bhavan, the Secretariats and the Law<br />

Courts and so provide them with a<br />

disciplined frame.<br />

Parks had been provided for in the<br />

Viceregal Estate, the large parkway<br />

around the Lodi Tombs and Safdarjang’s<br />

Tomb, a park to the south of the club<br />

containing golf and race courses and a<br />

park between the new and old cities.<br />

Not only was the planting of the new<br />

city itself carefully planned, but also<br />

its background. The city is backed by<br />

a long, low ridge that was mostly bare<br />

of vegetation, but was afforested in<br />

order to give the new city a wooded<br />

background.<br />

Concern with amenity, preservation of<br />

natural features and creation of park<br />

systems was the obverse of the <strong>City</strong><br />

Beautiful, and a significant aspect of<br />

the Washington and Chicago plans<br />

which was skilfully adopted into the<br />

layout for New <strong>Delhi</strong>. The standard of<br />

local open spaces of one acre, to every<br />

Architectural Style<br />

Lutyens was an architect of synthesis,<br />

and the style which ultimately emerged<br />

at Rashtrapathi Bhavan is a synthesis of<br />

Western classical geometry and Indian<br />

motifs. Lutyens takes the Moghul loggia<br />

and fuses it with the western column,<br />

learning from Indian buildings how to<br />

create an ecologically-sensitive building,<br />

cooled by its own breezes and fountains.<br />

Chattris dominate the roofline of the<br />

Viceroy’s House. The Islamic chajjas or<br />

blade-like cornice, decorated with the<br />

pattern of the pipal leaf, wrap around<br />

the building, projecting deep shadows<br />

from the remorseless Indian sun. Red<br />

sandstone that was extensively used<br />

by the Moghuls, was used for jallis that<br />

were carved using Western geometry.<br />

In the Moghul garden, Lutyens fuses<br />

Mughal geometry with western<br />

planting of flowers (by contrast with<br />

Moghul fruit), adding curves in the<br />

circular butterfly garden with are alien<br />

to Mughal straight lines.<br />

The demonstrated integration of city<br />

planning incorporating both the Garden<br />

<strong>City</strong> and Beautiful <strong>City</strong> Concept, and the<br />

synthesis of architectural styles ensures<br />

that New <strong>Delhi</strong> is a unique expression of<br />

universal significance.<br />

36<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 37


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY<br />

Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities<br />

Justification of Outstanding Universal value<br />

Justification of Outstanding Universal Value<br />

a b c d<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> is today, without doubt, a<br />

city of international standing and<br />

significance. Diverse historical, cultural<br />

and environmental exigencies have<br />

created the city that is today recognized<br />

globally as the capital of an important<br />

developing nation. <strong>Delhi</strong>’s aura of a<br />

capital city goes back many centuries<br />

and its outstanding universal value<br />

stems from the fact that it was the<br />

capital of significant kingdoms<br />

and often sub-continental empires,<br />

which in many ways facilitated the<br />

development of a cultural synthesis<br />

that flowered into a sophisticated and<br />

mature form and in turn exerted an<br />

influence over a wide geographical<br />

area.<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>’s unique cultural landscape<br />

evolved from the mingling of multiple<br />

streams of cultural impulses from the<br />

Islamic and European worlds. The<br />

extension of its integrated culture was<br />

the result of cross fertilisation in the<br />

process of continuous development as<br />

a major centre of power, culture and<br />

learning in the medieval world.<br />

(ii)The nominated site exhibits an<br />

important interchange of human<br />

values, over a span of time, within<br />

a cultural area of the world, on<br />

developments in architecture and<br />

town planning.<br />

The history of the city of <strong>Delhi</strong>, from<br />

ancient times has been characterized<br />

by the intermingling of peoples from<br />

diverse backgrounds and often far<br />

flung homelands, who all made <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

their home, and brought to it their own<br />

ritual, literary and artistic traditions.<br />

Two significant aspects that led to the<br />

syncretism of cultures are: successive<br />

dynasties of diverse ethnic and cultural<br />

background who made <strong>Delhi</strong> their<br />

capital and brought with them new<br />

ideas and technologies to build their<br />

forts, palaces and religious edifices,<br />

which resulted in the evolution of<br />

the hybrid architectural styles and<br />

secondly, the sustained interaction<br />

over a long period of time, between<br />

various cultural communities, which<br />

produced a syncretism of cultures<br />

that flowered from the roots in certain<br />

urban precincts of the city.<br />

The results of these two forces are the<br />

hybrid architectural styles and the<br />

syncretism of the intangible heritage,<br />

which are today closely identified with<br />

the city and define its outstanding<br />

universal value.<br />

e<br />

a,b,c,d,e. There was an exchnge<br />

of cultural meaning across<br />

sectarian lines seen in the use of<br />

the lotus ,kalash etc on Islamic<br />

buildings.<br />

a<br />

b<br />

a,b. In the design of New <strong>Delhi</strong>,<br />

Edwin Lutyens picked up motifs<br />

and forms from the Mughal<br />

past and thereby introduced<br />

another powerful tradition –<br />

that of India’s ancient Buddhist<br />

sites. Hence, the Sanchi Stupa<br />

inspired the dome of the Rashtrapati<br />

Bhawan and the stone<br />

railing around Vijay Chowk.<br />

At the end of the twelfth century the<br />

then prevalent Ra jput architecture<br />

of <strong>Delhi</strong> received a strong infusion<br />

of very new architectural styles and<br />

techniques, brought in by its new<br />

Turk rulers. Experiments that created<br />

a distinctive and influential style of<br />

architecture can be seen in Mehrauli<br />

where the striking red sandstone<br />

and white marble ornamentation of<br />

the Alai Darwaza presages centuries<br />

of Sultanate, Mughal and Colonial<br />

architecture, which used these<br />

materials in similar ways in <strong>Delhi</strong> and<br />

throughout the subcontinent. The<br />

use of trabeate techniques to create<br />

accurate forms such as the arches of<br />

the Qutb mosque, in time led to the<br />

evolution of a mingled form. The lintel<br />

and corbelled doorway set below the<br />

arch became a design feature of many<br />

Sultanate and Mughal buildings. They<br />

also point to an early stage in the<br />

development of a distinct <strong>Delhi</strong> style,<br />

characterized by an innovative mix of<br />

technologies, materials and motifs.<br />

There was also an exchange of cultural<br />

meaning across sectarian lines. The<br />

lotus and kalash, held sacred by the<br />

Hindu tradition, became a part of the<br />

mosques and tombs of the city and<br />

beyond. Equally, the Hindu and Jain<br />

temples of Shahjahanabad display<br />

the cusped arches and fluted domes<br />

of the mature Mughal style, often<br />

inaccurately designated ‘Islamic’. Over<br />

the centuries the builders of <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

built in a style that is neither ‘Hindu’<br />

nor ‘Muslim’, (irrespective of whether<br />

or not the function of a particular<br />

building was a religious one). They<br />

used styles that consciously sought to<br />

incorporate meaningful elements from<br />

different traditions.<br />

Syncretism can be seen in historic<br />

buildings throughout <strong>Delhi</strong>, in four<br />

areas being nominated as part of<br />

the WH <strong>City</strong> of <strong>Delhi</strong>-Mehrauli,<br />

Nizamuddin, Shahjahanabad and New<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong><br />

(v)The nominated site is an<br />

outstanding example of traditional<br />

human settlements and land use,<br />

which is representative of cultures,<br />

especially when it has become<br />

vulnerable under the impact of<br />

irreversible change.<br />

The various cities within <strong>Delhi</strong> were<br />

built as capitals of the ruling dynasty<br />

at different times in response to very<br />

specific social, political and cultural<br />

catalysts. Two of these, the walled city<br />

of Shajahanabad and New <strong>Delhi</strong> remain<br />

intact as traditional human settlements<br />

of outstanding universal significance.<br />

The town planning of Shahjahanabad<br />

was no doubt influenced by Iranian<br />

ideas – as expressed in texts like<br />

the Rasail Ikhwan al Safa, and the<br />

examples of West Asian cities, such as<br />

Isfahan. But scholars believe that the<br />

plan of Shahjahanabad was equally<br />

influenced by the ancient Indian texts<br />

on architecture – the Vastu Shastra.<br />

Moreover, the organic growth of<br />

the city in the centuries following<br />

its establishment has reflected the<br />

assimilative tendencies in Indian<br />

society – with various religious sects,<br />

occupational and ethnic groups finding<br />

space within the city without any one<br />

being privileged over the others.<br />

Shahjahanabad still retains most of its<br />

medieval street plan. Broad streets<br />

connect to major traffic arteries leading<br />

out of the city – such as the north south<br />

axis between Kashmiri Gate and <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

Gate. Secondary streets link major<br />

landmarks and gates of the city. Most<br />

of these are also important bazaars,<br />

many of which date to Shahjahan’s time<br />

and/or deal in commodities that have<br />

changed little, for instance Dariba Kalan<br />

specializes in jewellery, Kinari bazaar in<br />

gilt and laces, Khari Baoli in spices.<br />

The narrow lanes – galis and kuchas,<br />

leading from the main bazaars follow<br />

their own logic. The buildings closely<br />

38<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 39


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities Justification Description of Outstanding of the Universal Nominated value Area<br />

lining them shield the walker from the<br />

hot sun of the day. The density of the<br />

streets and buildings also make the<br />

city a compact space, which can be<br />

comfortably traversed on foot. Within<br />

numerous gated cul-de-sacs, are katras<br />

– commercial emporia specializing in<br />

specific commodities.<br />

Traditional housing (of which much<br />

remains in Shahjahanabad) follows<br />

the pattern of the courtyard house<br />

or haveli. Rooms are usually built<br />

around a central open space that can<br />

be used by the family in privacy from<br />

the street outside. Carved sandstone<br />

facades, chabutras (platforms beside<br />

the main entrance) and overhanging<br />

balconies mark the transition zone<br />

and mediate the interaction of the<br />

haveli with the street. The city and<br />

its structures thus represent a certain<br />

style of urban living, which though<br />

it still survives, is undergoing rapid<br />

change. With aspirations running to<br />

motorized vehicles and shopping in<br />

air conditioned malls, many erstwhile<br />

residents have moved out of the havelis<br />

which have become commercial<br />

establishments – mostly workshops<br />

and storage godowns.<br />

New <strong>Delhi</strong>, built between 1913<br />

and 1931, exhibits an interaction<br />

of a different sort. Two traditional<br />

Western trends – The American ‘<strong>City</strong><br />

Beautiful’ and the British ‘Garden <strong>City</strong>’<br />

movements, were blended with the<br />

peculiar needs of British colonialism<br />

in India.<br />

Its grand Central Vista, linking<br />

Rashtrapati Bhawan (originally<br />

Viceroy’s House) with India Gate (the<br />

War Memorial arch) the canopy, and<br />

the National Stadium just beyond, is<br />

on the one hand reminiscent of the<br />

Champs Elysees in Paris or the Mall<br />

at Washington. On the other hand it<br />

is not dissimilar to the broad Mughal<br />

ceremonial way in Shahjahanabad –<br />

leading from the Red Fort via Chandni<br />

Chowk to Fatehpuri Mosque.<br />

Unlike the medieval city however, New<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>’s street plan was influenced by<br />

the Garden <strong>City</strong> movement, with treelined<br />

avenues and individual houses on<br />

large plots of land. At the same time<br />

it was different from say Canberra, a<br />

Garden <strong>City</strong> of a similar period, which<br />

had a significantly denser built up<br />

area. Here, New <strong>Delhi</strong> drew on the<br />

older tradition of the British Indian<br />

bungalow which was set back from<br />

the street and shielded from view as<br />

well as contact with much of the outer<br />

world.<br />

(vi) be directly or tangibly associated<br />

with events or living traditions, with<br />

ideas, or with beliefs, with artistic<br />

and literary works of outstanding<br />

universal significance.<br />

An important aspect of the composite<br />

culture that is characteristic of much of<br />

South Asia, can be seen in the realm of<br />

religious practice, i.e. in the seats of the<br />

Sufi saints; and here <strong>Delhi</strong> has had a<br />

wide-ranging influence. Sufism was an<br />

aspect of Islam that was born in West<br />

Asia, but developed along independent<br />

lines and gained immense popularity<br />

in South Asia even with non-Muslim<br />

populations. In the practices of the<br />

Sufis, who have been a cultural, and<br />

at times even political, force, there<br />

was common ground with the ideas of<br />

bhakti or personal devotion to God that<br />

existed in the Hindu tradition. This is<br />

no doubt one of the factors that have<br />

attracted so many people of different<br />

faiths to the Sufi shrines over the<br />

centuries. Many of the characteristics<br />

of the typically Indian variant of<br />

Sufism, which is even today a strong<br />

influence throughout South Asia, have<br />

a history of beginnings in <strong>Delhi</strong>. In fact,<br />

so strongly has <strong>Delhi</strong> been associated<br />

with the Sufi saints (there are believed<br />

to be 22 important shrines), that<br />

for much of its history the city was<br />

a<br />

b<br />

a.One of the greatest Urdu<br />

and Persian poets of the<br />

time, Asadullah Khan Ghalib<br />

©National Museum, <strong>Delhi</strong>.<br />

b. Saint Nizamuddin Auliya and<br />

his disciple Amir Khusro.<br />

a b<br />

c<br />

d<br />

a, b. The art of dastangoi is<br />

witnessing a revival<br />

c. Elaborately decorated<br />

pankhas or fans are offered at<br />

the temple of Yog Maya and the<br />

shrine of Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar<br />

Kaki during the festival of<br />

Phoolwalon ki Sair.<br />

d. Qawwali programme<br />

known as ‘Hazrat Dehli’; hazrat being<br />

the respectful title used for a saint.<br />

The saints, with their liberal religious<br />

practice attracted not only converts<br />

and devotees in large numbers; they<br />

also provided the political power<br />

with a model of governance that was<br />

based on a tolerance of non-Muslim<br />

populations. <strong>Delhi</strong>, even as it was the<br />

capital of an empire that purportedly<br />

derived its legitimacy from Islam,<br />

continued to have a large Hindu<br />

population.<br />

Some of the most important Sufi<br />

shrines of the sub-continent are to be<br />

found at Mehrauli, Nizamuddin, and<br />

Shahjahanabad among other locations.<br />

Mehrauli and Nizamuddin contain the<br />

shrines of two of the most influential<br />

saints of the Chishti order – Qutbuddin<br />

Bakhtiyar Kaki and Nizamuddin Auliya<br />

respectively; while Shahjahanabad has<br />

several shrines of only slightly less well<br />

known saints such as Shah Turkman,<br />

Sarmad Shaheed and Hare Bhare Shah.<br />

Nizamuddin has been associated with<br />

Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya and Hazrat<br />

Amir Khusrau. In keeping with Sufi<br />

pluralistic traditions, they were without<br />

doubt, the most popular proponents of<br />

what has come to be called Hindustani<br />

culture, a fine synthesis of Hindu and<br />

Muslim elements into a synergetic<br />

whole. Amir Khusrau, a devout<br />

follower of the Chishtiya order while<br />

being associated with the courts of at<br />

least seven kings of <strong>Delhi</strong>, straddled the<br />

spiritual and materialistic worlds with<br />

ease.<br />

Sama, or qawwali is an important part<br />

of the legacy of the Sufis, particularly of<br />

the Chishti order, as is the evolution of<br />

forms which incorporated indigenous<br />

Indian musical traditions and the<br />

Hindavi language with Persian<br />

traditions.<br />

Language and literature were not<br />

unaffected by the cultural melting pot<br />

of <strong>Delhi</strong>. Farsi (Persian) became the<br />

language of the state and of high culture<br />

in the early days of the Sultanate when<br />

the capital was located at Mehrauli.<br />

But early attempts at blending it with<br />

the local dialect spoken around <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

were seen in the poetry of Amir Khusro,<br />

a devotee and friend of Nizamuddin<br />

Auliya who is buried next to the great<br />

saint. Slowly Urdu developed – blending<br />

a number of words from different<br />

sources including Persian and Turki,<br />

into the local language or Khari boli.<br />

The name that came to be applied to this<br />

language in Mughal times, i.e., zaban-e<br />

urdu-e mu’alla-e Shahjahanabad (the<br />

language of the exalted city/court of<br />

Shahjahanabad) underlined its close<br />

connection with the city. Urdu soon<br />

spread over much of the sub-continent,<br />

and its literature, (much of it produced<br />

in <strong>Delhi</strong>) is counted among the great<br />

literatures of the world.<br />

The link between the dargah of Qutb<br />

Sahib and the Hauz-e-Shamsi was<br />

further reinforced in the 1810s with the<br />

birth of a new tradition, the Phoolwalon<br />

ki sair or ‘festival of the flower sellers’.<br />

This celebration of Hindu-Muslim amity<br />

is a tradition that has survived to the<br />

present time, and is an annual festival at<br />

Mehrauli.<br />

40<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 41


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY<br />

Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities<br />

Statements of authenticity and /or integrity<br />

Statements of authenticity and/or integrity<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> is a living city. It accommodates<br />

the remains of over a thousand<br />

years of building in different states<br />

of preservation of their respective<br />

authenticity and integrity.<br />

The authenticity of the form and design<br />

of the nominated area varies in the<br />

four historic sites that are proposed<br />

for consideration. Use and function<br />

has remained authentic to a very high<br />

degree. Location and setting of all<br />

four sites has been largely retained.<br />

Language and other forms of intangible<br />

heritage have survived in the heritage<br />

precincts of Mehrauli and Nizamuddin<br />

and continue till today.<br />

The history of these sites has been<br />

captured in the accounts of ancient<br />

travellers, like Ibn Batuta, Francois<br />

Bernier, etc. Ancient texts like the<br />

Mahabharata records the origins of<br />

an ancient settlement in this area and<br />

other scribal texts and oral records<br />

have been used to gather data.<br />

Company Paintings from the late 18th<br />

century onwards are an excellent<br />

record of the built scapes and human<br />

scapes detailing cultural traditions,<br />

buildings, landforms, etc. Reputable<br />

scholars have researched and traced<br />

the evolution of Mehrauli and<br />

Nizamuddin from archival sources and<br />

photographic records from the middle<br />

of the nineteen century have been used<br />

to fill in details and make inferences.<br />

The descriptions and information of<br />

Shahjahanabad and New <strong>Delhi</strong> are on<br />

firmer footings<br />

Mehrauli<br />

Forming the nominated area in<br />

Mehrauli is 1)the original extent of Lal<br />

Kot, identified as the site of the first<br />

fortified city of <strong>Delhi</strong> and its subsequent<br />

extension known as Qila Rai Pithora, 2)<br />

Mehrauli village of which the Dargah of<br />

Bakhtiyar Kaki is an integral part and<br />

3)Mehrauli Archaeological Park in the<br />

vicinity of the dargah, where tombs and<br />

mosques were built up to the modern<br />

period of the city.<br />

While traces of the fortifications of the<br />

walled city remain, there is a substantial<br />

number of surviving monumental<br />

buildings that have retained their<br />

original form, design and materials.<br />

The nominated area is an integral<br />

whole and includes the original extent<br />

of the Rajput fortification. The clusters<br />

of buildings even in their residual<br />

state provide coherent evidence of<br />

the character of <strong>Delhi</strong>’s first urban<br />

settlement. The surviving ensemble of<br />

buildings which includes structures like<br />

the Qutb Minar and Quwwat-ul-Islam<br />

Mosque, is evidence of an early stage<br />

in the development of a distinct <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

style, characterized by an innovative<br />

mix of cultures, technologies, materials<br />

and decorative motifs. The ensemble<br />

of buildings from the fortified city<br />

that survives are looked after by the<br />

Archaeological Survey of India and<br />

all rules and regulations pertaining<br />

to development in the prohibited and<br />

protected zones of these buildings<br />

are enforced thereby ensuring that<br />

the integrity and authenticity of these<br />

structures will remain intact.<br />

Mehrauli village which houses the<br />

Dargah of Qutbuddin Baktiyar Kaki<br />

(early 13th C) is representative of the<br />

living Sufi traditions that originated<br />

here and the Mehrauli Archaeological<br />

Park. These developments took<br />

place because of the aura of the saint<br />

and together with the dargah are<br />

the attributes of the unique living<br />

tradition of the Phoolwalon-ki-sair,<br />

which is celebrated by both Hindus<br />

and Muslims as an extraordinary<br />

evidence of communal harmony. The<br />

dargah is also known for the practice of<br />

undisturbed meditation in seclusion, a<br />

necessary precondition for the next<br />

level of spiritual awareness.<br />

The Master Plan<br />

2021 recognises that<br />

the urban heritage<br />

of <strong>Delhi</strong> needs to<br />

be conserved and<br />

outlines policies and<br />

sets out directives<br />

which if followed<br />

would give the much<br />

needed impetus to the<br />

preservation of <strong>Delhi</strong>’s<br />

heritage.<br />

With a view to<br />

safeguard the built<br />

and natural heritage<br />

of <strong>Delhi</strong>, <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

<strong>Heritage</strong> Foundation<br />

(DUHF) was set up by<br />

DDA, under Sec.5-A<br />

of <strong>Delhi</strong> Development<br />

Act, under the<br />

chairmanship of the<br />

Hon’ble Lt. Governor<br />

of <strong>Delhi</strong>.<br />

Mehrauli continues to thrive as a<br />

traditional living settlement and is<br />

faced with the pressures of modern<br />

development with its original built<br />

stock having evolved over the years<br />

however the morphology of the city<br />

with their original function and use<br />

typical of traditional settlement<br />

remains unchanged and will continue<br />

to do so because of the high level of<br />

awareness and sense of reverence<br />

that prevails with regard to anything<br />

associated with the Sufi Saint.<br />

The structures in the Archaeological<br />

Park are now listed buildings and most<br />

of them have now been conserved and<br />

linked through trails and interpretive<br />

signage allowing them to be read as a<br />

cognitive whole.<br />

Nizamuddin<br />

The area nominated in Nizamuddin<br />

comprises of 1) the traditional<br />

settlement that developed around<br />

the dargah of the Sufi saint Hazrat<br />

Nizamuddin Auliya, covering<br />

exactly the same area as the ancient<br />

settlement, and 2) the Nizamuddin<br />

precinct which saw considerable<br />

building activity in the form of tombs<br />

and mosques that were built in this<br />

area because of the aura of the sufi<br />

saint. The two are coherent in an<br />

organic settlement morphology which<br />

forms an integral, cognitive whole.<br />

The scale and nature of development<br />

in Nizamuddin precinct (impressive<br />

complexes like Humayun’s Tomb) adds<br />

to its coherence demonstrating the<br />

level at which the saint was venerated<br />

and continues to be, till today.<br />

The Nizamuddin dargah settlement<br />

still has the practitioners of the cultural<br />

traditions like the maulvis living within<br />

the original settlement and continuing<br />

with their traditional roles. There is a<br />

high level of awareness about the value<br />

of their traditions. For most people<br />

living within the settlement, since<br />

their means of earning a livelihood are<br />

activities related to and connected with<br />

the dargah, there is a certain sensitivity<br />

and willingness to maintain the<br />

uniqueness of the area. The traditional<br />

settlement still retains it original urban<br />

morphology and street pattern, barring<br />

of course the normal pressures of<br />

development that the settlement has<br />

sometimes fallen prey to. Most palpable<br />

in this settlement is the spirit of religious<br />

fervour and feeling of reverence for the<br />

Sufi saint and all associated traditions<br />

The Nizamuddin precinct is protected<br />

by the rules and regulations of the<br />

ASI. Private initiatives like the Urban<br />

Renewal Initiative by the Aga Khan<br />

Trust for Culture which includes<br />

the conservation of individual<br />

monuments using traditional tools and<br />

building techniques, renewal of the<br />

surrounding spaces and environment,<br />

and sustainable socio-economic<br />

development to improve the quality<br />

of life of the local community will<br />

eventually restore the significance of<br />

this historic ensemble.<br />

Shahjahanabad<br />

The walled city of Shahjahanabad in<br />

its original form and design is being<br />

nominated as part of the World <strong>Heritage</strong><br />

<strong>City</strong>. The physical form of the walled city<br />

has survived as also four of the original<br />

gates of the city.<br />

The city has evolved with time, most<br />

significantly as a result of the aftermath<br />

of historical events like the Uprising<br />

of 1857, which changed the spatial<br />

character of parts of the walled city.<br />

In the 19th century, the northern part<br />

of the walled city saw changes when<br />

the British administration was located<br />

here, and western style buildings such<br />

as the Town Hall and St. James Church<br />

were introduced.<br />

42<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 43


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY<br />

Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities<br />

Comparison with other similar properties<br />

Comparison with other similar properties<br />

The comparitive ananlysis aims to highlight the distinctiveness of <strong>Delhi</strong> as compared to the various historic cities in<br />

the geo-cultural region, by examining the influence on city planning, morphology, architecture and intangible heritage.<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> has been compared globally to the cities of Rome and Cairo; regionally with the cities of Samarkand and Lahore<br />

and locally with the cities of Agra and Lucknow.<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> had always been a capital city and the centre for seat of power over several centuries. Though several empires<br />

were formed and rulers changed, the city never stopped growing. <strong>City</strong> of <strong>Delhi</strong> can be compared to several other cities<br />

in the broader region of Asia and West Asia. The architectural style, planning principles which are the features of the<br />

above mentioned cities exhibits very rich heritage and are comparable to <strong>Delhi</strong>. However <strong>Delhi</strong> stands unique as a<br />

culmination of various architectural styles and amalgamation of various cultures.<br />

The plan of Rome developed in a radio<br />

centric fashion around functional<br />

nodes. Sight lines, axes, nodes<br />

and viewpoints became integral<br />

components of the design and planning<br />

of the city. Though <strong>Delhi</strong> shows this<br />

system of planning, the amalgamation<br />

of Hindu and European concept of city<br />

planning has been well synthesized<br />

unlike Rome.<br />

However, in most parts of the city, the<br />

urban morphology and monumental<br />

buildings of the Mughal period remains<br />

intact and the residential structures<br />

have been rebuilt on the original<br />

footprint - typical development in a<br />

living city of this antiquity. In certain<br />

areas commercial developments have<br />

replaced the residents in the original<br />

buildings, adding considerably to<br />

the load on its infrastructure. These<br />

issues are now being addressed by<br />

the newly created Shahjahanabad<br />

Redevelopment Corporation.<br />

New <strong>Delhi</strong> – The original form and<br />

design of New <strong>Delhi</strong> as designed by<br />

Edwin Lutyens is being nominated<br />

as part of the World <strong>Heritage</strong> <strong>City</strong> of<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>. The entire planned city together<br />

with its location and setting, the ridge<br />

which forms a backdrop to the central<br />

vista and its monumental buildings<br />

and its radial tree lined avenues, is part<br />

of the area proposed for nomination.<br />

The design which is a synthesis of<br />

the Garden <strong>City</strong> Movement and <strong>City</strong><br />

Beautiful Movement, both very strong<br />

town planning concepts of the 19th<br />

century has been almost wholly<br />

preserved (with the exception of the<br />

commercial district of Connaught<br />

place which has seen some change in<br />

the building heights). All other parts of<br />

this planned city have remained largely<br />

unaffected by subsequent pressures of<br />

development. The area is now under<br />

strong conservation regulations.<br />

The cross section of the streets with the<br />

original avenue planting is still retained.<br />

Having completed their life span these<br />

trees now need to be replaced and<br />

a comprehensive proposal has been<br />

prepared for replanting of the avenues.<br />

Any maintenance work undertaken<br />

uses the traditions and techniques that<br />

were originally used to build the city.<br />

With such stringent<br />

rules and guidelines<br />

in place and initiative<br />

and with the effort of<br />

local citizens there<br />

is no doubt that the<br />

authenticity and<br />

integrity of <strong>Delhi</strong>’s<br />

historic past will be<br />

retained.<br />

a.<br />

Date of Inscription:<br />

1980 ,<br />

Extension: 1990<br />

Criteria: (i) (ii) (iii)<br />

(iv) (vi)<br />

Area of Property :<br />

1,485 ha<br />

a. Maps of nominated area of<br />

historical city of Rome.<br />

Historic Centre of Rome:<br />

the Properties of the Holy See in<br />

that <strong>City</strong> Enjoying Extraterritorial<br />

Rights and San Paolo Fuori le<br />

Mura<br />

Over several centuries Rome remained<br />

the capital city of many ruling Empires.<br />

The city of Rome was the centre of the<br />

Roman Republic around 500 BC and<br />

the Roman Empire from 44 BC to 3rd<br />

century AD. It reached its peak during<br />

the Roman Empire while being ruled by<br />

Emperor Trajan from 98 AD to 117 AD.<br />

The boundaries of the Roman Empire<br />

extended to a vast area influencing<br />

several regions in language, religion,<br />

architecture, philosophy and law.<br />

Rome became the capital centre of<br />

Christian world in 4th century AD.<br />

Christianity was profusely practiced<br />

and monuments of that period became<br />

directly and tangibly associated<br />

unlike in <strong>Delhi</strong> where not only such<br />

religious practices and traditions were<br />

associated with monuments but also<br />

exerted different intangible forms.<br />

The intangible aspects in <strong>Delhi</strong> were<br />

manifested through the development of<br />

music, art, craft, language, performing<br />

art and tradition. The intermingling of<br />

several cultures led to the development<br />

of Sufism in <strong>Delhi</strong> in its own unique and<br />

independent form. Urdu as a language<br />

and qawwali as a form of music are<br />

examples of unique rendition of<br />

language and art.<br />

Rome in the 4th century AD became<br />

the capital of Christian world and later<br />

accepted and practiced profusely by<br />

several other countries. In <strong>Delhi</strong>, Sufism<br />

was introduced which developed in<br />

its own independent lines and later<br />

accepted by other parts of the country.<br />

44<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 45


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY<br />

Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities<br />

Comparison with other similar properties<br />

a.<br />

a.<br />

a.<br />

Historic Cairo<br />

The historic city of Cairo can be dated<br />

from the early 1641 AD following<br />

a Muslim conquest, though the city<br />

was founded in 10th century AD<br />

with the relocation of El-Qahirah<br />

by the Fatimids and the citadel was<br />

constructed which became the nucleus<br />

of Cairo in the medieval period.<br />

Cairo always remained a dominating<br />

political, cultural and religious centre<br />

of the Islamic world. Over a period of<br />

time the city was constantly enlarged<br />

by several rulers who conquered the<br />

city similar to <strong>Delhi</strong> which was made<br />

into the capital city of many empires.<br />

Cairo reached its peak of development<br />

in the 14th century AD. The city was<br />

conquered by the Ottomans and<br />

became a part of the Ottoman Empire<br />

in the early 16th century AD.<br />

The historic Islamic city of Cairo has<br />

attained the highest grade of human<br />

genius in its building monuments<br />

having unique architectural and<br />

artistic character. The urban planning<br />

or the morphological character of the<br />

city also describes the uniqueness and<br />

excellence of town planning in terms<br />

of its numerous streets, dwellings and<br />

human settlements.<br />

Both Cairo and <strong>Delhi</strong> became the<br />

capital cities for significant kingdoms<br />

that brought development in terms<br />

of monuments, ensembles of large<br />

complexes and a distinct town planning<br />

character for the city. Architecture and<br />

material technology also developed<br />

and attracted artists from a larger<br />

geographical area and likewise the<br />

vocabulary and the technique of<br />

construction also developed.<br />

Unlike the Islamic city of Cairo; which<br />

was planned on the town planning<br />

principles of the Fatimids, the historic<br />

city of <strong>Delhi</strong> was planned with an<br />

amalgamation of Persian system<br />

of city planning with Islamic ideas<br />

and ideals of the Indian text of Vastu<br />

Shastra. This concept of town can be<br />

distinctly seen within the walled city of<br />

Shahjahanabad.<br />

Date of Inscription:<br />

1979<br />

Criteria: (i) (v) (vi)<br />

Area of Property:<br />

524 ha<br />

a. Maps of nominated area of<br />

Cairo<br />

Date of Inscription:<br />

2001<br />

Criteria: (i) (ii) (iv)<br />

Area of Property:<br />

965 ha<br />

a. Map of nominated area of<br />

Samarkand.<br />

Samarkand: Crossroads of<br />

cultures<br />

The city of Samarkand which is more<br />

than 3000 years old was well known<br />

throughout history as a social, political,<br />

cultural and economic centre of Central<br />

Asia. Like the city of <strong>Delhi</strong>, Samarkand<br />

had been conquered and ruled by<br />

several rulers, each bringing with them<br />

art, architecture and culture which over<br />

several years became a component of<br />

the Samanid lifestyle. The first evidence<br />

of settlement of Afrosiabin Samarkand<br />

goes back to 1500BC almost similar to<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong>, with the inception of the city of<br />

Pandavas at Indrapastha.<br />

Both the cities during a certain<br />

period of time (Samarkand-13th C<br />

AD to 15th C AD and <strong>Delhi</strong> 15th C AD<br />

to 17th C AD) reached a highpoint<br />

in Islamic architectural creativity.<br />

Samarkand reached its economical and<br />

architectural pinnacle during the reign<br />

of Timur while <strong>Delhi</strong> during the reign of<br />

Shahjahan. Samarkand was later ruled<br />

by the Russians and <strong>Delhi</strong> by the British.<br />

Samarkand has been inscribed in the<br />

World <strong>Heritage</strong> list on the basis of<br />

its criteria (ii) and (iv) but the preeminence<br />

of <strong>Delhi</strong> is defined through<br />

the criteria (vi) where the intangible<br />

aspect also becomes an integral part for<br />

development and growth of the city.<br />

While Samarkand is a complete<br />

ensemble of an Islamic city, the city of<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> (Shahjahanabad) was designed<br />

based on the Islamic ideas along with<br />

ideals drawn from the Persian city<br />

planning. The Indian text on Vastu<br />

Shastra was also referred for designing<br />

the urban fabric of the then city during<br />

the rule of Mughal king Shahjahan. The<br />

similar idiom of town planning was<br />

followed during the designing of New<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> where not only Indian principles<br />

were followed but also the concept of<br />

“Garden <strong>City</strong>” was applied.<br />

In terms of its intangible heritage, <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

became the epicenter for the origination<br />

of Urdu as a language. Urdu itself was<br />

an amalgam of the Turkic, Persian and<br />

local language Sanskriti Prakrit. Though<br />

Sufi culture existed in other parts of<br />

West Asia, Sufism developed on its<br />

own independent lines in <strong>Delhi</strong> where<br />

influences from Hindu traditions were<br />

taken. The Qawwali tradition introduced<br />

by Amir Khusro also developed by fusing<br />

Persian and Indian music.<br />

While Samarkand stands testimony to<br />

the Islamic city planning, the distinctive<br />

character of <strong>Delhi</strong> lies in its unique<br />

morphology and amalgamation of both<br />

the Islamic planning principles and the<br />

garden city concepts much influenced<br />

by the intangible cultural aspects.<br />

46<br />

State Party - INDIA INTACH- <strong>Delhi</strong> Chapter 47


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY<br />

Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities<br />

Comparison with other similar properties<br />

a. b.<br />

Lahore<br />

c.<br />

a.<br />

Lahore, the second largest city in<br />

Pakistan is considered to be the<br />

cultural capital of the once Punjab<br />

province. The city dates back to almost<br />

2000 years, successively serving as<br />

the regional capital of several empires.<br />

Lahore like <strong>Delhi</strong> is situated along the<br />

crossing of the Silk Route which has led<br />

to an interchange of several cultures<br />

over many centuries. This interchange<br />

of ideas brought along new forms of<br />

art, craft, rituals, beliefs, architecture<br />

and technology.<br />

The ancient cities of Lahore and <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

had been ruled by several dynasties<br />

over many centuries. Similar to <strong>Delhi</strong>,<br />

Lahore had been the cultural capital<br />

of the north western sub-continent<br />

and poets from several countries such<br />

as Egypt, Persia, Samarkand, Bukhara<br />

impacted the culture of the city.<br />

During the Mughal Dynasty both in<br />

Lahore and <strong>Delhi</strong> art, architecture and<br />

music reached its pinnacle. A new<br />

architectural style which included the<br />

use of cusped arches and amalgamation<br />

of several architectural aesthetics<br />

developed. With the influences from<br />

several cultures, new architectural<br />

terminologies developed. Both the<br />

walled cities were an ensemble of<br />

several activities and architectural<br />

components like the havelis, residential<br />

quarters, markets, places of worship,<br />

mix of narrow and broad streets, though<br />

the layout differed. Unlike the layout of<br />

Lahore which was more of the Persian<br />

style, <strong>Delhi</strong> had influences taken from<br />

Persia, India and Islamic concepts of<br />

town planning.<br />

Even though Lahore was strategically<br />

located in terms of trade, unlike <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

it did not have any natural barrier<br />

which allowed invasions and plunder<br />

several times weakening the city and<br />

its growth. <strong>Delhi</strong> continued to be as a<br />

place more powerful and important<br />

throughout history. With the shifting of<br />

Mughal capital from Lahore to Agra and<br />

then to <strong>Delhi</strong> the historic city of Lahore<br />

lost its charm and started to dwindle<br />

until conquered by the Sikhs and later<br />

by the British.<br />

Lahore, which was the cultural capital<br />

once, started losing its historical and<br />

political importance whereas <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

till date continues to be of political<br />

importance and has developed its art,<br />

craft, music and language with the<br />

influence from several other cultures,<br />

over many centuries. Music like<br />

qawwali and the Urdu language both<br />

developed along its own independent<br />

lines in <strong>Delhi</strong> absorbing influences from<br />

Persian, Turkish and Sanskrit language.<br />

a. Marble pavalion and old<br />

entrance of the Lahore fort<br />

1860-1870 James Craddock @<br />

Victoria and Albert Museum..<br />

b. Lahore from Wazeer, 1850s to<br />

1870s, Frith, Francis, @Victoria<br />

and Albert Museum..<br />

c. Street seen in the walled city,<br />

Lahore, 1855-1856, Carpenter,<br />

William, @Victoria and Albert<br />

Museum<br />

a. . Panaromic view of the<br />

Fort, Agra, 1840 Painting,<br />

Source:Victoria and Albert<br />

Museum<br />

Agra<br />

The historic city of Agra first finds a<br />

mention in Mahabharat as Agraven and<br />

later came to be known as Akbarabad<br />

during the reign of the Mughals. As per<br />

the legends, the history of the city goes<br />

back 2500 years, and only in the reign<br />

of the Mughal rulers, Agra became a<br />

prosperous and provincial city. Located<br />

along the banks of River Yamuna, Agra<br />

has three remarkable world heritage<br />

sites- Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri and<br />

Agra Fort.<br />

Both Agra and <strong>Delhi</strong> have been centres<br />

of the Mughal Empire from 16th to 17th<br />

century AD. Agra had been the capital<br />

city of Babur, Humayun and Akbar<br />

whose contributions in city planning<br />

defined the highest degree of creative<br />

genius of man. The architecture and<br />

city planning reflect influence of Indian,<br />

Persian and colonial architecture. The<br />

sensitive additions in the architectural<br />

vocabulary further accentuated the art,<br />

craft, architecture and technology of the<br />

buildings. Humayun’s Tomb in <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

further influenced the architecture of<br />

the Taj Mahal.<br />

Agra primarily exhibits the creativity<br />

of the unparalleled architectural<br />

vocabulary of the Mughal rulers; <strong>Delhi</strong><br />

on the other hand shows a distinct<br />

visible architectural character from the<br />

oldest city of Mehrauli to the Mughal<br />

Empire in Shahjahanabad and the new<br />

Indo-British architecture in the 20th<br />

century colonial city. Distinct influence<br />

of the British power in India defining<br />

a new vocabulary of architecture for<br />

administrative structures marks the<br />

city and influences its growth and<br />

morphology.<br />

Both <strong>Delhi</strong> and Agra had been influenced<br />

by Sufism. The dargah of saint Sheikh<br />

Salim Chisti (1478-1572 AD) lies in the<br />

city of Fathepur Sikri, Agra, while in<br />

<strong>Delhi</strong> lies the Dargah of Bakhtiyar Kaki<br />

(1173-1235 AD) and Nizamuddin Auliya<br />

(1238-1325 AD) of the Chistiya order.<br />

As a capital city of many ruling empires,<br />

the essence of <strong>Delhi</strong> as a political centre<br />

and seat of power never fizzled even<br />

after the decline of the Mughal Empire<br />

while in Agra after the capital was<br />

shifted by Shahjahan and later with<br />

the decline of Mughal power, the city<br />

became an administrative centre. Unlike<br />

the city of Agra which seized to be the<br />

capital centre once the Mughal Empire<br />

was shifted to <strong>Delhi</strong>, <strong>Delhi</strong> continued to<br />

play an important role in the nation.<br />

48<br />

State Party - INDIA 49


DELHI: A HERITAGE CITY<br />

Nomination to UNESCO’s List of World <strong>Heritage</strong> Cities<br />

b.<br />

b.<br />

a.<br />

Lucknow<br />

Lucknow is the present capital city of<br />

Uttar Pradesh located along the River<br />

Gomti. The city is known to have been<br />

built by Lakshman, the brother of<br />

Rama, from where the city derives its<br />

name as Lakhanpur. Though Lucknow<br />

had always been an important<br />

multicultural city with ever flourishing<br />

trade, it was never the capital city of<br />

any ruling empire until independent<br />

kingdoms like Awadh were established<br />

after the Mughal Empire disintegrated<br />

in this region around late 18th century.<br />

Later Lucknow became the capital city<br />

and an administrative region within<br />

the Awadh province after the court of<br />

the fourth Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula was<br />

shifted from Faizabad in 1775AD.<br />

The multi-cultural facet of the city is<br />

due to the influence of trade and the<br />

syncretic composite culture came to be<br />

known as the Ganga-Jamuni Tehzeeb.<br />

The exchange of several cultures also<br />

brought with it development and<br />

introduction of new forms of art, craft,<br />

architecture and technology. The art of<br />

kite making reached its pinnacle during<br />

the reign of Nawabs. <strong>Delhi</strong> reached its<br />

architectural pinnacle during the rule<br />

of Mughals while Lucknow during the<br />

Nawab reign. The architectural style<br />

that developed in both these cities was<br />

not an ensemble of any one culture but<br />

an amalgamation of several influences<br />

like Mughal, Rajput and Colonial.<br />

Lucknow became the capital city of<br />

a smaller region known as Awadh<br />

(Oudh). Lucknow was considered to<br />

be the cultural capital of the Northern<br />

Province after the advent of Nawabs<br />

while <strong>Delhi</strong> due to its status of a<br />

capital continued to be the place for<br />

the origination of several forms of art,<br />

craft, language, dance and music. The<br />

language Urdu, music as qawwali and<br />

rituals and customs of Sufism found its<br />

own definition in <strong>Delhi</strong>. These forms of<br />

intangible heritage were adopted and<br />

further refined in the courts of Nawabs<br />

in Lucknow at a much later period.<br />

c.<br />

a. View of Lucknow, Lucknow,<br />

1891, unknown, @ Victoria &<br />

Albert museum<br />

b. View in the Kaiser Bagh,<br />

1864-1865, Bourne & Shepherd,<br />

@ Victoria & Albert museum<br />

c. View of the Kaiser Bagh<br />

in Lucknow, 1864, Simpson,<br />

William ,@Victoria & Albert<br />

museum<br />

50<br />

State Party - INDIA

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