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December - Hill Country Cichlid Club

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9<br />

cerned with. That is heat and cold. It gets way hotter<br />

and much cooler here than the subtropical climate<br />

of the Miami area. This however, I considered<br />

a drawback, not a game stopper.<br />

For the last six years we have kept fish in containers<br />

of some sort outside in the yearly time period Jeff<br />

had suggested. These containers amounted to old<br />

plexi-glass vats at first and then into kiddie pools. I<br />

had experimented with some home made filtration<br />

systems, some effective, some not so much. Three<br />

years ago my buddy JB gave me<br />

a large above ground pool. Immediately<br />

I realized that this was<br />

the going to be the framework<br />

for my conquering the year<br />

round outdoor cichlidarium!<br />

Thinking that I had pretty much everything figured<br />

out, we went on to have the hottest summer on record.<br />

If I remember it was nearly 100 days in a row<br />

of temperatures in excess of 100F. The pool water<br />

heated to a point that I could not cool it or turn it<br />

enough to keep a descent oxygen content in it. The<br />

fish did not do very well. I decided that the next<br />

piece of equipment that would be necessary was a<br />

pump capable of turning the water better than what I<br />

had set up. While searching for an additional pump<br />

I happened on a sand filter unit that had what I<br />

thought would be needed and extra filtration! This<br />

was external item number three.<br />

Initially I set the big 5500 gallon<br />

pool up, added the stock filter<br />

that came with it and let it run.<br />

Within a week the water was so<br />

green that I could not see anything.<br />

Extra piece of equipment<br />

number one, UV sterilizer to<br />

handle the green water. A small<br />

power hear ran water through the<br />

sterilizer rather than hooking it<br />

inline with the filter. I wasn’t<br />

sure the high water flow would<br />

be as effective as a slower flow<br />

through the UV. It took about<br />

two weeks but the UV Sterilizer<br />

did the trick and kept the water<br />

crystal clear.<br />

It was now time to add some fish. I can’t remember<br />

what species I added first but I do remember that<br />

shortly after the fish went in, the oak trees that surround<br />

our property, started shedding oak pollen<br />

pods. When they inevitably hit the pond, the water<br />

immediately turned a crappy tea colored and again I<br />

could not see what was in the water. After the pollen<br />

fall had ended, I was able to drain the pond and<br />

basically start over. Needed item number two:<br />

some sort of cover to keep the pollen pods from the<br />

water.<br />

The sand filter unit replaced the original stock pump and filter unit.<br />

One other design flaw was that in the summer heat,<br />

the sides of the pond generated a great deal of heat<br />

and in the winter, there was nothing to insulate the<br />

water from the chill of the air. We added silver insulation<br />

commonly found in fish crates and used in<br />

shipping as well. We pieced these together with<br />

duct tape. While not ascetically pleasing, it turned<br />

out to be very effective for both purposes.<br />

We ordered a “solar blanket” to keep foreign objects<br />

out of the water and as an added bonus, it converts<br />

the suns rays into heat. It is very noticeable<br />

when the weather is cooler. The top comes off after<br />

the April pollen fall and will go on with the onset of<br />

cooler weather around November. On warmer winter<br />

days I don’t remove it but I do peel it back.

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