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DIATOMEJE, UJETE V ZANKE PLETENIN DRAŽ Mesta si bolj ali manj zapomnimo po njihovih skritih zakladih ali po najbolj izpostavljenih turističnih znamenitostih, po naravnih lepotah in kulturi, ki jo ponujajo, po parkih, sprehajališčih, gostilnah, arhitekturi, razstavah, glasbi, gledališču in modi. Publikacija Razkrita čudesa reke nam na svojevrsten in sodoben način predstavlja skrite lepote življenja v našem mestu Ljubljani. V globinah Ljubljanice, ki mirno teče pod najbolj znano ljubljansko znamenitostjo, Tromostovjem, sobiva čarobni svet mikroskopsko drobnih rečnih alg diatomej, ki sta ga oblikovalca Urška in Tomaž Draž ujela v zanke pletenin. Pletenine Draž so prepoznavni modni simbol Ljubljane. V njihovo trgovino, ki je od leta 1999 na Gornjem trgu 9, z enakim žarom prihajajo občudovalci pletenin iz vse Slovenije kot svetovno znani obiskovalci. Urbana legenda pravi, da je potem, ko je njihovo krilo videla na svoji maskerki, k Draževim popolnoma sama in nenapovedana prišla igralka Andy McDowel, kupila tri kose pletenin in odšla brez kakršnegakoli pompa. Z lastnim izrazom, prepoznavnim avtorskim slogom in obrtniškim perfekcionizmom sta Urška in Tomaž začrtala povsem nove smernice razvoja modnih pletenin. Tandem Tomaž & Urška Draž Vodilo Pletenin Draž je eksperimentiranje, raziskovanje in uporaba sodobnih tehnologij, s katerimi so razvili številne inovacije, samosvoje avtorske teksture in načine sestavljanja pletenin, ki danes niso le temelj in jasen razpoznavni znak njihove blagovne znamke, ampak tudi simbol slovenskih pletenin v svetu mode. Vizija Pletenin Draž je, da ne sledijo trendom, marveč jih ustvarjajo skozi lepa, a udobna, unikatna in praktična, ekstravagantna, nosljiva in predvsem vsestranska ter brezčasna oblačila. Z najmanj desetletno življenjsko dobo oblačila, ki jo Draž pletenine dosežejo s kakovostjo ter obnovo in reciklažo izdelka, so njihove pletenine eden redkih trajnostnih modnih izdelkov domače proizvodnje. Urška in Tomaž Draž iz leta v leto uresničujeta fantastične oblikovalske zamisli. Ena zadnjih je oživitev mikroskopsko drobnih alg skozi strukture pletenin v kolekciji oblačil za pomlad– poletje 2014 z imenom Diatomea, ki je nastala v sodelovanju z neprofitno organizacijo LUTRA, Inštitutom za ohranjanje naravne dediščine in Nacionalnim inštitutom za biologijo. Z inovativnimi tehnologijami pletenja, predvsem z uporabo žakardskih pletenin, sta mikroskopske slike diatomej prenesla na oblačila. Alge, ki vizualno spominjajo na pletene organske tridimenzionalne čipke, so postale vir umetniškega navdiha in oživele v različnih oblikah in kombinacijah na oblačilih iz viskoze in bombaža. Glede na želeni učinek, volumen ali padec teksture sta Urška in Tomaž pustila vzorcem, da si vsak sam izbere barvo in ponudi rešitev oziroma idejo za silhueto, v kateri se bosta ženska ali moški počutila svobodno, udobno in lepo. Kolekcijo sta dopolnila s supergami iz pletene čipke, povzete po diatomejskem vzorcu, ki jih je posebej za Draž izdelal največji slovenski proizvajalec športne butve Alpina in sta jih oblikovalca drzno 16
DIATOMS, LOOPED INTO DRAŽ KNITWEAR We remember cities by their hidden treasures, we are always so eager to find, or by their well known tourist attractions, natural beauties and architecture these cities have to offer. We remember the restaurants, music, art, exhibitions, parks, theaters and fashion. On its very own and modern way, the publication Revealed River Wanders introduces us to a hidden life of our Ljubljana city. In the depths of Ljubljanica river, which peacefully flows under the well known Triple Bridge, lies a magical world of microscopic small diatom algae which was caught in the loops of knitwear by the two designers, Urška and Tomaž Draž. Draž knitwear is a very recognizable fashion symbol of Ljubljana. Anyone who admires beautiful knitwear loves to visit their store, from the year 1999 located in a lovely old part of Ljubljana, Gornji trg 9. It is also said that the actress Andy Mcdowel saw one of their unique skirts on her make–up artist, went unannounced to visit the store and immediately bought three pieces of clothing. With their own expression, recognizable author style and perfectionism in handcraft Urška and Tomaž outlined entirely new guidelines of fashion knitwear. The guidance of Draž knitwear is experimenting, research and use of new technologies, thus developing numerous innovations, unique original textures and ways of combining knitwear; all these today is not only their ground and clearly recognizable fashion brand but also the symbol of Slovenian knitwear in fashion world. The vision of Draž knitwear is not about following latest fashion trends, it’s more about creating trends through timeless, versatile and unique, though wearable and comfortable clothing. With making, remaking and recycling of clothes as well as with high quality, their fashion knitwear became one of the most sustainable among local productions, its life–cycle lasting at least ten years. Every year, Urška and Tomaž Draž bring fantastic design ideas to reality. For the spring–summer 2014 collection named DIATOMEA, they found an inspiration in the microscopic diatom algae. The collection was made in the collaboration with nonprofit organization LUTRA, Institute for Conservation of Natural Heritage and with National Institute of Biology. With innovative knitting technologies and using jacquard knitwear, they transmitted the micrographs of diatoms onto clothing. These diatoms looking very much like three–dimensional knitted lace, came alive onto their clothing made out of materials such as viscose and cotton. With different patterns and colors, they have designed a brilliant collection, made for women as for men to feel free, stylish and comfortable. They complete the collection with sneakers, also made out of the knitted lace, inspired by diatoms. These sneakers have been made by Slovenian biggest shoe manufacturer, Alpina. They’ve matched them with elegant evening gowns and definitely succeeded in breaking taboo that an evening gown needs to be worn with high heels. In next years, we will admire diatoms not only on daily street cloths but also on evening gown and wedding dress. After the Slovenian Fashion Week’s premiere in Ljubljana, the Diatomea collection has been on its victory march. As the chosen collection of this Fashion Week, it was also represented on a 35 th Belgrade’s Fashion Week as a part of Zona 45 project, where only the region’s best designers are shown. Samples of the Diatomea collection based on the structure of diatom shells with their abstract organic motifs, distinctive “hi–tech” appearance and new conceptual solutions have brought to Draž tandem the Trend 2013 award, for fashion and visual creativity. In the same year, they also won a very flattering Elle’s designer of the year 2013 title and have proved that science and fashion can easily go hand in hand. Last achievement of the Diatomea collection is a nomination for Elle style awards in a fashion collaboration category, for successful joining hands with Alpina. The boutique collection of “diatom” sneakers is also on sale in selected Alpina’s stores. Although the life of these microscopic diatoms somewhere is endangered by the water pollution, we must be aware of the fact that they are very important for survival of many other organisms. Similarly, knitting as a traditional Slovenian craft is also endangered in our country, even though it used to be the main income for many Slovenian families, at the same time bringing joy to people with its beauty and warmth. The story of diatoms, looped into the Draž’s knitwear is a story about hidden treasures and a story about survival of endangered species as well as traditional arts and crafts. This publication will hopefully bring this story closer to the broader publics. Sanja Grcić, B.Sc. engineer of design President of the Society for modern Slovenian design of textiles and clothing SOTO 17
Page 1: Razkrita čudesa reke BIOTSKA PESTR
Page 5 and 6: Pobliže ko opazujemo nek pojav, bo
Page 7 and 8: THE INVISIBLE BEAUTY OF DIATOMS Tin
Page 9 and 10: limit and throw away what we feel i
Page 11 and 12: DIATOMS UNDER THE ELECTRON MICROSCO
Page 13 and 14: DIATOMS: WHEN ESSENTIAL BECOMES VIS
Page 15 and 16: Revealed River Wonders and subtitle
Page 17: Whenever in the story of diatoms it
Page 22 and 23: 20 40 %
Page 24 and 25: Diatomeje so posebna skupina mikros
Page 26: Alge. Je to sluzasta obloga rečneg
Page 30: Diatomeje ali kremenaste alge živi
Page 34: Kremenaste alge vsebujejo klorofil,
Page 38: Diatomeje so svetovljanke, zato te
Page 42: Geografska in krajinska pestrost Sl
Page 46: Kaj pomeni regulacija vodotoka za t
Page 50: Kako vplivajo vodni športi na obč
Page 54: V Sloveniji je zbranih dovolj podat
Page 58: Alfred Nobel, švedski kemik in izu
Page 62: Čudovita raznolikost povodja Ljubl
Page 66: Nesporna kraljica razstave - alga a
Page 70:
Katalog razstave in kaj vse so lahk
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