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Summer 2007 - The Alpine Club of Canada

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A Rockies’ gal visits Bon Echo Hut<br />

BY RUTHIE OLTMANN<br />

What’s a Rockies’ gal doing in<br />

Ontario anyhow? Actually, I<br />

was attending family events<br />

and visiting at the leisurely pace <strong>of</strong> two<br />

months. Driving and camping provided a<br />

good opportunity to assuage my curiosity<br />

and check out a hut that isn’t in <strong>Canada</strong>’s<br />

western mountains.<br />

As the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />

Librarian, I have connected with people<br />

such as Toronto Section member David<br />

Brown who contacted me about putting<br />

copies <strong>of</strong> Steve Adcock’s new guidebook,<br />

A Guide to Rock Climbs at Bon Echo,<br />

3rd edition, into the ACC library and<br />

Canmore <strong>Club</strong>house. I expressed an<br />

interest in visiting Bon Echo Hut, and he<br />

put me in touch with Ge<strong>of</strong>f Hodgson, the<br />

hut custodian for the weekend I wished<br />

to visit.<br />

Bon Echo Hut is situated just outside<br />

Bon Echo Provincial Park, which has a<br />

landscape dominated by one <strong>of</strong> the most<br />

imposing natural phenomena in Ontario<br />

– Mazinaw Rock. Th e granite cliff s<br />

rise majestically out <strong>of</strong> Mazinaw Lake,<br />

providing a very impressive focal point.<br />

Th ey are home to more than 120 climbing<br />

routes.<br />

Situated on the edge <strong>of</strong> Mazinaw<br />

Lake, Bon Echo Provincial Park is<br />

divided by a spit <strong>of</strong> land. Th e narrow<br />

Crossing the lake PHOTO BY RUTHIE OLTMANN<br />

point dividing the lake is only 10 metres<br />

wide and has occasionally been waded by<br />

climbers with their packs held high above<br />

their heads. Th e park campground is on<br />

the west side <strong>of</strong> the lake and the cliff s and<br />

hut are on the east side.<br />

I had planned on staying overnight in<br />

the hut, but on checking Keith Haberl’s<br />

book, <strong>Alpine</strong> Huts, I found it doesn’t<br />

<strong>of</strong>f er sleeping accommodation. To stay<br />

overnight I needed a tent, which I didn’t<br />

have with me, as I was camping in my<br />

minivan. Th e hut does have a fi replace<br />

and the usual ACC kitchen, plus a sauna<br />

near the lake. Also on the grounds,<br />

Chapel Hut is a bit <strong>of</strong> a misnomer as it<br />

really is a tool shed. Ge<strong>of</strong>f assured me he<br />

could ferry me back and forth across the<br />

lake so I could camp in the park.<br />

While waiting at the dock for Ge<strong>of</strong>f , I<br />

met Karen McGilvray, her 6-year-old son<br />

Lucas, and Karen’s employee, Sam with<br />

her daughter Twyla. Ge<strong>of</strong>f arrived in the<br />

ACC boat with his welcoming smile and<br />

we made the trip across the lake.<br />

Scattered throughout the woods<br />

surrounding the hut are a dozen small<br />

sites for tents, some with lovely views <strong>of</strong><br />

Mazinaw Lake.<br />

Ge<strong>of</strong>f was busy crossing the lake<br />

throughout the evening, picking up<br />

more climbers while I enjoyed chatting<br />

with folks around the fi re pit, which<br />

adds immeasurably to the ambience<br />

– especially for a 6-year-old boy who likes<br />

roasted marshmallows.<br />

Later in the evening, with only the<br />

lights across the lake to guide him, Ge<strong>of</strong>f<br />

took me back across.<br />

Th e next morning I met Ge<strong>of</strong>f at the<br />

dock directly across from the spectacular<br />

Mazinaw Rock. He was transporting<br />

folks to the cliff s in the <strong>Club</strong> boat. As<br />

the tourist sitting in the boat I learned<br />

about climbing at Bon Echo, listening to<br />

Ge<strong>of</strong>f ’s enthusiastic commentary on the<br />

diff erent routes. Crossing back and forth<br />

from the hut to the cliff s with various<br />

climbers all morning gave me a great<br />

introduction as to how folks climb there,<br />

as I absorbed the enthusiasm <strong>of</strong> those<br />

die-hard rock climbers.<br />

Bon Echo is not at all like the<br />

Rockies, where I’ve been an ACC hut<br />

custodian, and had time to climb or<br />

hike. Th e Bon Echo Hut custodian has<br />

Friendly folks at Bon Echo Hut<br />

PHOTO BY RUTHIE OLTMANN<br />

to spend his or her time ferrying people<br />

from the road’s public dock to the hut<br />

and then from the hut to the cliff s. Th e<br />

unique part about climbing there is that<br />

the climbers sit in the bow <strong>of</strong> the boat,<br />

don their rock shoes, step out, and up<br />

they go!<br />

Th ere is a 1.6-kilometre portage<br />

trail from the hut to Kishkebus Lake<br />

that made a delightful hike, and I also<br />

scrambled up a rocky knoll enjoying the<br />

fall colours <strong>of</strong> the trees and Mazinaw<br />

Lake. Also, Ge<strong>of</strong>f took me to the public<br />

dock at the narrows on the cliff side <strong>of</strong><br />

the lake and I hiked up the tourist trail to<br />

the cliff top with a view <strong>of</strong> the lake.<br />

Spending the evening in the hut<br />

cooking dinner and chatting with the<br />

climbers was entertaining. Karen, who<br />

owns a climbing gym in Toronto, was<br />

impressive. She and her climbing partner<br />

Katherine are keeners. I also met Will, an<br />

engineer in the Canadian space program<br />

in Ottawa, as well as people from Toronto<br />

and Montréal. I only met one fellow who<br />

had climbed in the Rockies.<br />

I had a wonderful visit and I found<br />

Ge<strong>of</strong>f to be an enthusiastic tour guide.<br />

I recommend a visit the next time you<br />

fi nd yourself in Ontario. Take a tent.<br />

Boatman Ge<strong>of</strong>f Hodgson drops people by the cliff<br />

where they climb. PHOTO BY DAVID BROWN

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