Summer 2007 - The Alpine Club of Canada
Summer 2007 - The Alpine Club of Canada
Summer 2007 - The Alpine Club of Canada
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A Rockies’ gal visits Bon Echo Hut<br />
BY RUTHIE OLTMANN<br />
What’s a Rockies’ gal doing in<br />
Ontario anyhow? Actually, I<br />
was attending family events<br />
and visiting at the leisurely pace <strong>of</strong> two<br />
months. Driving and camping provided a<br />
good opportunity to assuage my curiosity<br />
and check out a hut that isn’t in <strong>Canada</strong>’s<br />
western mountains.<br />
As the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
Librarian, I have connected with people<br />
such as Toronto Section member David<br />
Brown who contacted me about putting<br />
copies <strong>of</strong> Steve Adcock’s new guidebook,<br />
A Guide to Rock Climbs at Bon Echo,<br />
3rd edition, into the ACC library and<br />
Canmore <strong>Club</strong>house. I expressed an<br />
interest in visiting Bon Echo Hut, and he<br />
put me in touch with Ge<strong>of</strong>f Hodgson, the<br />
hut custodian for the weekend I wished<br />
to visit.<br />
Bon Echo Hut is situated just outside<br />
Bon Echo Provincial Park, which has a<br />
landscape dominated by one <strong>of</strong> the most<br />
imposing natural phenomena in Ontario<br />
– Mazinaw Rock. Th e granite cliff s<br />
rise majestically out <strong>of</strong> Mazinaw Lake,<br />
providing a very impressive focal point.<br />
Th ey are home to more than 120 climbing<br />
routes.<br />
Situated on the edge <strong>of</strong> Mazinaw<br />
Lake, Bon Echo Provincial Park is<br />
divided by a spit <strong>of</strong> land. Th e narrow<br />
Crossing the lake PHOTO BY RUTHIE OLTMANN<br />
point dividing the lake is only 10 metres<br />
wide and has occasionally been waded by<br />
climbers with their packs held high above<br />
their heads. Th e park campground is on<br />
the west side <strong>of</strong> the lake and the cliff s and<br />
hut are on the east side.<br />
I had planned on staying overnight in<br />
the hut, but on checking Keith Haberl’s<br />
book, <strong>Alpine</strong> Huts, I found it doesn’t<br />
<strong>of</strong>f er sleeping accommodation. To stay<br />
overnight I needed a tent, which I didn’t<br />
have with me, as I was camping in my<br />
minivan. Th e hut does have a fi replace<br />
and the usual ACC kitchen, plus a sauna<br />
near the lake. Also on the grounds,<br />
Chapel Hut is a bit <strong>of</strong> a misnomer as it<br />
really is a tool shed. Ge<strong>of</strong>f assured me he<br />
could ferry me back and forth across the<br />
lake so I could camp in the park.<br />
While waiting at the dock for Ge<strong>of</strong>f , I<br />
met Karen McGilvray, her 6-year-old son<br />
Lucas, and Karen’s employee, Sam with<br />
her daughter Twyla. Ge<strong>of</strong>f arrived in the<br />
ACC boat with his welcoming smile and<br />
we made the trip across the lake.<br />
Scattered throughout the woods<br />
surrounding the hut are a dozen small<br />
sites for tents, some with lovely views <strong>of</strong><br />
Mazinaw Lake.<br />
Ge<strong>of</strong>f was busy crossing the lake<br />
throughout the evening, picking up<br />
more climbers while I enjoyed chatting<br />
with folks around the fi re pit, which<br />
adds immeasurably to the ambience<br />
– especially for a 6-year-old boy who likes<br />
roasted marshmallows.<br />
Later in the evening, with only the<br />
lights across the lake to guide him, Ge<strong>of</strong>f<br />
took me back across.<br />
Th e next morning I met Ge<strong>of</strong>f at the<br />
dock directly across from the spectacular<br />
Mazinaw Rock. He was transporting<br />
folks to the cliff s in the <strong>Club</strong> boat. As<br />
the tourist sitting in the boat I learned<br />
about climbing at Bon Echo, listening to<br />
Ge<strong>of</strong>f ’s enthusiastic commentary on the<br />
diff erent routes. Crossing back and forth<br />
from the hut to the cliff s with various<br />
climbers all morning gave me a great<br />
introduction as to how folks climb there,<br />
as I absorbed the enthusiasm <strong>of</strong> those<br />
die-hard rock climbers.<br />
Bon Echo is not at all like the<br />
Rockies, where I’ve been an ACC hut<br />
custodian, and had time to climb or<br />
hike. Th e Bon Echo Hut custodian has<br />
Friendly folks at Bon Echo Hut<br />
PHOTO BY RUTHIE OLTMANN<br />
to spend his or her time ferrying people<br />
from the road’s public dock to the hut<br />
and then from the hut to the cliff s. Th e<br />
unique part about climbing there is that<br />
the climbers sit in the bow <strong>of</strong> the boat,<br />
don their rock shoes, step out, and up<br />
they go!<br />
Th ere is a 1.6-kilometre portage<br />
trail from the hut to Kishkebus Lake<br />
that made a delightful hike, and I also<br />
scrambled up a rocky knoll enjoying the<br />
fall colours <strong>of</strong> the trees and Mazinaw<br />
Lake. Also, Ge<strong>of</strong>f took me to the public<br />
dock at the narrows on the cliff side <strong>of</strong><br />
the lake and I hiked up the tourist trail to<br />
the cliff top with a view <strong>of</strong> the lake.<br />
Spending the evening in the hut<br />
cooking dinner and chatting with the<br />
climbers was entertaining. Karen, who<br />
owns a climbing gym in Toronto, was<br />
impressive. She and her climbing partner<br />
Katherine are keeners. I also met Will, an<br />
engineer in the Canadian space program<br />
in Ottawa, as well as people from Toronto<br />
and Montréal. I only met one fellow who<br />
had climbed in the Rockies.<br />
I had a wonderful visit and I found<br />
Ge<strong>of</strong>f to be an enthusiastic tour guide.<br />
I recommend a visit the next time you<br />
fi nd yourself in Ontario. Take a tent.<br />
Boatman Ge<strong>of</strong>f Hodgson drops people by the cliff<br />
where they climb. PHOTO BY DAVID BROWN