A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada
A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada
A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada
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To Every Place <strong>The</strong>re is a Season<br />
by Lynn Martel<br />
been to Wheeler Hut enough<br />
I’ve times over <strong>the</strong> years to<br />
have developed a visual and emotional<br />
expectation <strong>of</strong> what I anticipate fi nding each<br />
time I return – a deep impression <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> log<br />
cabin, <strong>the</strong> trees it’s nestled among and <strong>the</strong><br />
towering peaks surrounding it. It’s <strong>the</strong> only<br />
Wheeler Hut photo by Nancy Hansen<br />
Heidi’s Hints<br />
Dear Heidi,<br />
I’ve been sport climbing <strong>for</strong> several<br />
seasons now, both in <strong>the</strong> gym and at <strong>the</strong><br />
crags. Technically I’ve improved, but<br />
I’m still not com<strong>for</strong>table leading. I’m so<br />
nervous I can’t focus on <strong>the</strong> moves. How<br />
do I overcome this fear and become a leader<br />
instead <strong>of</strong> a follower?<br />
Sincerely, Dog on a Leash<br />
Dear Dog,<br />
First, realize you’re not alone. Ever<br />
noticed all that swaggering and posing at<br />
<strong>the</strong> crags? Well, it’s just to cover up <strong>the</strong><br />
quaking knees and sweating palms we all<br />
suffer from taking <strong>the</strong> sharp end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rope.<br />
It gets easier over time but <strong>the</strong> butterfl ies<br />
never completely fl y away; that’s partly what<br />
keeps us hooked on climbing. But while<br />
a bit <strong>of</strong> anxiety is thrilling and keeps our<br />
attention, it shouldn’t border on terror. So<br />
let’s discuss ways you can confi dently break<br />
into <strong>the</strong> leading world.<br />
First lesson – leave your ego at home.<br />
Self-image can only be a burden – a heavy<br />
weight you drag up <strong>the</strong> climb that only<br />
distracts you. That means you start by<br />
leading climbs two to four number grades<br />
below what you can toprope. Remember<br />
this is a riskier game – learning should be<br />
4 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003<br />
hut I’ve skied into long after sunset more<br />
than once, on purpose. So near <strong>the</strong> summit<br />
<strong>of</strong> Rogers Pass and <strong>the</strong> parking lot on <strong>the</strong><br />
Trans <strong>Canada</strong> Highway, Wheeler stands like<br />
a hospitable check-in centre, entry point to<br />
grand ski touring and climbing adventures<br />
beginning just beyond its latched doorway,<br />
up <strong>the</strong> Illecillewaet and Asulkan glaciers.<br />
Approaching <strong>the</strong><br />
hut after dark, I expect<br />
to see smoke puffi ng<br />
from <strong>the</strong> chimneys and<br />
mere slivers <strong>of</strong> light<br />
sneaking out from <strong>the</strong><br />
windows, illuminating<br />
only <strong>the</strong> tops <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
massive snowpiles that<br />
obscure <strong>the</strong>m. Following<br />
narrow ski tracks to <strong>the</strong><br />
back door, I expect <strong>the</strong><br />
outhouse path to be<br />
walled by snowbanks<br />
over my head. I expect<br />
to enter a lively, bustling<br />
fun; you can push arbitrary grades later. So,<br />
if you can toprope a 5.10 without hanging,<br />
start by leading a 5.7. Pick a friendly climb<br />
with lots <strong>of</strong> bolts. This will greatly reduce<br />
your nerves and you can always tell your<br />
friends you just need practice clipping bolts.<br />
A more scientifi c method is to divide <strong>the</strong><br />
length <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> climb by <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> bolts<br />
(including <strong>the</strong> anchors). This will give you<br />
some idea <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> average distance between<br />
<strong>the</strong> bolts (I like about three metres when<br />
climbing at my limit). And remember some<br />
sport routes are set up to stick clip <strong>the</strong> fi rst<br />
bolt. I’d recommend you do that anyway <strong>for</strong><br />
your fi rst few leads.<br />
Second, wear a helmet. That’s part <strong>of</strong><br />
leaving your ego at home. <strong>The</strong> consequences<br />
<strong>of</strong> a lead fall are serious, even on sport<br />
routes. With <strong>the</strong> new style <strong>of</strong> fashionable,<br />
lightweight helmets, well, <strong>the</strong>re’s just no<br />
excuse any more.<br />
Third, pick a belayer you trust will be<br />
patient, encouraging and attentive, not<br />
checking out <strong>the</strong> babes/hunks on <strong>the</strong> next<br />
route, or digging in <strong>the</strong> pack <strong>for</strong> food as you<br />
make that dicey clip. Confi dence in your<br />
belayer will add a tremendous psychological<br />
edge to your leads.<br />
Fourth, practice falling. Like many<br />
things in life, <strong>the</strong> fear <strong>of</strong> falling is <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
much worse than <strong>the</strong> actual act. If you are<br />
com<strong>for</strong>table with falling, you’ll be less afraid<br />
place; both fi replaces crackling with dry<br />
wood, voices and laughter fi lling <strong>the</strong> spaces<br />
between <strong>the</strong> ceiling beams.<br />
But in <strong>the</strong> winter <strong>of</strong> 2003, Wheeler Hut<br />
was quite a different place.<br />
I drove down from Mica Creek, two<br />
and a half hours north <strong>of</strong> Rogers Pass,<br />
where I’d been visiting some friends at a<br />
heli-skiing lodge. <strong>The</strong> brand new lodge<br />
boasted a spectacular stone fi replace,<br />
lea<strong>the</strong>r armchairs, a ro<strong>of</strong>top Jacuzzi with<br />
a mountain view, après ski sushi and a<br />
four-story climbing wall. I had left right<br />
be<strong>for</strong>e dinner and second-guessed my<br />
decision not to stay <strong>for</strong> that night’s party<br />
throughout my drive. But I was meeting<br />
friends early <strong>the</strong> next morning at <strong>the</strong> Rogers<br />
Pass info centre <strong>for</strong> a two night camping<br />
trip up Bostock Creek and reasoned that I<br />
would prefer to get <strong>the</strong> drive over with so I’d<br />
be well rested <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> ski.<br />
Be<strong>for</strong>e pulling into <strong>the</strong> parking lot I<br />
knew <strong>the</strong> snowbanks were pitifully low<br />
<strong>for</strong> mid-February – I’d seen more snow<br />
knowing <strong>the</strong> worst that can happen. Some<br />
climbers who feel edgy on a given day will<br />
take a practice fall or two just to put <strong>the</strong>m<br />
in <strong>the</strong> zone. This might best be practiced in<br />
<strong>the</strong> controlled environment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> gym, on<br />
an overhanging route with a knowledgeable<br />
belayer you’ve warned. Don’t grab anything<br />
with your hands, including <strong>the</strong> rope, watch<br />
your legs aren’t tangled in <strong>the</strong> rope and aim<br />
<strong>for</strong> a s<strong>of</strong>t landing with fl exed legs against<br />
<strong>the</strong> wall.<br />
Fifth, develop a system <strong>for</strong> clipping.<br />
Always rack your biners <strong>the</strong> same way on<br />
your harness, in terms <strong>of</strong> how many per side,<br />
order from short to long, orientation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
gates. Discuss with your belayer whe<strong>the</strong>r or<br />
not you want a spot to <strong>the</strong> fi rst bolt, if you’ll<br />
shout <strong>for</strong> slack, etc. Be consistent. Soon<br />
you’ll be so effi cient at clipping, it’ll be as<br />
natural as chalking up.<br />
Finally, build a pyramid. Once you’ve<br />
led that fi rst 5.7, lead a bunch more be<strong>for</strong>e<br />
hopping on a 5.8. And be<strong>for</strong>e leading a 5.9,<br />
lead more 5.7s and 5.8s. This is known as a<br />
pyramid, where each progression in diffi culty<br />
is founded on an ever-widening base <strong>of</strong> easier<br />
routes. Who knows, maybe some day you’ll<br />
fi nd yourself tying in at <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> some<br />
insanely overhanging crimp-fest in <strong>the</strong> south<br />
<strong>of</strong> France. And, if that’s <strong>the</strong> case, be sure to<br />
take your ego with you.<br />
See you at <strong>the</strong> crags, Heidi