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A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada

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Tonquin Valley Tales and Turns<br />

Story & photo by George Stefanick<br />

In<br />

1961, Phil Dowling and <strong>the</strong><br />

Dowler bro<strong>the</strong>rs were contracted<br />

to build <strong>the</strong> new Wates-Gibson Hut in <strong>the</strong><br />

Tonquin Valley <strong>of</strong> Jasper National Park. I<br />

accompanied <strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong>ir mission to check<br />

out <strong>the</strong> requirements <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> foundation and<br />

<strong>the</strong> availability <strong>of</strong> timber. <strong>The</strong> hut was built<br />

<strong>the</strong> following year and in 1963, I attended<br />

<strong>the</strong> General Mountaineering Camp (GMC)<br />

and <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fi cial opening <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Wates-<br />

Gibson. For <strong>the</strong> next nine years I made<br />

yearly summer visits into <strong>the</strong> valley and was<br />

eager to see it in its winter setting.<br />

I was dismayed in March <strong>of</strong> 1973 to<br />

hear <strong>the</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> (ACC)<br />

had a rule about <strong>the</strong> equipment required<br />

on its trips – heavy-duty downhill skis and<br />

boots with touring bindings. Mine were<br />

wooden with bear-trap bindings suitable <strong>for</strong><br />

touring. Bruce Harding, <strong>the</strong> chair <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ski<br />

mountaineering committee, assured me he<br />

could bend <strong>the</strong> rules and I was free to come<br />

along with a couple <strong>of</strong> friends.<br />

<strong>The</strong> following two years saw John<br />

Tewnion and I each managing back-toback<br />

weeks <strong>of</strong> ski mountaineering camps<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Tonquin <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> main club organizers<br />

who were also running o<strong>the</strong>r ski camps in<br />

different areas. Shortly <strong>the</strong>reafter, <strong>the</strong> ACC<br />

Board felt that <strong>the</strong> area was losing its appeal<br />

Eremite and Fraser Valleys<br />

and decided not to use <strong>the</strong> Tonquin <strong>for</strong> a<br />

few years. John and I weren’t convinced and<br />

continued to run camps under <strong>the</strong> auspices<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Edmonton Section, but opened <strong>the</strong>m<br />

to all ACC members. <strong>The</strong> camps have been<br />

running now <strong>for</strong> 26 years an average <strong>of</strong> two<br />

weeks each year and show no sign <strong>of</strong> losing<br />

popularity.<br />

When I was chair <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ACC ski<br />

mountaineering committee, some members<br />

expressed concern about <strong>the</strong> high cost <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

regular ski camps. For <strong>the</strong>m, we arranged<br />

low-budget camps with no cook or guides<br />

and each participant was required to carry a<br />

share <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> food into <strong>the</strong> hut. <strong>The</strong>se camps<br />

were held over <strong>the</strong> Christmas holidays and<br />

ran <strong>for</strong> six years but were discontinued<br />

when participants began to organize <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

own outings.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> early years <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Tonquin ski<br />

camps, Parks <strong>Canada</strong> used to keep <strong>the</strong> road<br />

to Edith Cavell plowed. If we were planning<br />

an outing, all we had to do was phone to<br />

make sure <strong>the</strong> roadway was clear and if it<br />

wasn’t, Parks would remedy <strong>the</strong> situation.<br />

Later on, no person could be transported<br />

but food and supplies were still allowed.<br />

Now snowmobiles are <strong>for</strong>bidden but we are<br />

still permitted to use dog teams to carry in<br />

<strong>the</strong> food and equipment.<br />

In addition to <strong>the</strong> Tonquin Eremite<br />

ski camps, <strong>the</strong> Edmonton Section has<br />

held camps in several o<strong>the</strong>r locations –<br />

Assiniboine, <strong>the</strong> Icefi eld Parkway, Kokanee<br />

Park, Monashee, Freshfi eld and Fairy<br />

Meadows. Each area has its own unique<br />

character and attracts a different mix <strong>of</strong><br />

skiers depending on <strong>the</strong> technical ability<br />

required to enjoy <strong>the</strong> camp. Our camps have<br />

always attracted a certain clientele from <strong>the</strong><br />

USA but since <strong>the</strong> advent <strong>of</strong> computers and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Internet we now have participants from<br />

as far away as Europe and Japan. We had<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> editors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> New York Times<br />

on one Tonquin trip who was so impressed<br />

with <strong>the</strong> area she wrote a glowing article<br />

about <strong>the</strong> area, <strong>the</strong> ACC and <strong>the</strong> camp in<br />

particular. It was great advertising. (She was<br />

a much better writer than she was a skier.)<br />

Almost every camp will produce some<br />

kind <strong>of</strong> ‘incident’. At <strong>the</strong> Stanley Mitchell<br />

hut, a lady from Ontario was being harassed<br />

by a pine marten as she was trying to prepare<br />

dinner. In frustration she fi nally resorted to<br />

her ice axe to defend herself – her aim was<br />

bang on that day as she managed to impale<br />

<strong>the</strong> poor beast on <strong>the</strong> wall.<br />

Because many <strong>of</strong> our senior members<br />

were no longer able to hike long distances<br />

and function in a tent setting, I suggested to<br />

<strong>the</strong> Board many years ago that we promote<br />

a fall camp that would be held in a hostel,<br />

hut or chalet and be easily accessible. <strong>The</strong>se<br />

camps have been a tremendous success<br />

and much to my surprise have attracted<br />

participants in <strong>the</strong>ir 20s as well as those in<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir 80s.<br />

Now after 26 years <strong>of</strong> Edmonton Section<br />

camps <strong>the</strong> programs are still alive and well.<br />

Although I am no longer directly involved I<br />

am pleased to see that interest in <strong>the</strong>m has<br />

not waned. This year is a banner year with<br />

two weeks <strong>of</strong> ski camps and four summer<br />

and fall camps at four different locations, all<br />

<strong>of</strong> which are fully subscribed.<br />

George Stefanick has been a member <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Club</strong> since 1958.<br />

<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 15

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