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A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada

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Montreal and <strong>the</strong> surrounding areas.<br />

Mazinaw Rock is a popular feature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Park, consisting <strong>of</strong> a massive rock face rising<br />

as high as 100 metres over a distance <strong>of</strong> two<br />

kilometres. <strong>The</strong> rock is metamorphosed<br />

granite, intruded by black dykes, <strong>for</strong>ming<br />

many left-leaning ramps, slabs and cracks<br />

on <strong>the</strong> cliff face.<br />

Bon Echo has an interesting and varied<br />

history. Early residents left evidence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

activities in primitive red ochre pictographs<br />

painted on <strong>the</strong> cliff at water’s edge. In<br />

1889, Mazinaw Rock and its adjacent<br />

lands were purchased and developed as a<br />

tourist attraction and eventually became<br />

<strong>the</strong> property <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> late Merrill Denison.<br />

During negotiations to turn over <strong>the</strong> land<br />

to <strong>the</strong> Province <strong>of</strong> Ontario, Denison wrote<br />

to Alan Bruce-Robertson, fi rst chair <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> newly <strong>for</strong>med <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />

(ACC) Toronto Section, giving his blessing<br />

to continued climbing at Bon Echo, in<br />

<strong>the</strong>se words:<br />

Of course I have no objection to <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> visiting Bon Echo or<br />

climbing <strong>the</strong> Rock…at your own risk…I am<br />

glad to know you are going to go on enjoying<br />

<strong>the</strong> property…It’s a satisfaction to know<br />

that <strong>the</strong> Rock is fulfi lling such a purpose.<br />

– Excerpt from letter dated December 7,<br />

1957 and signed by Merrill Denison.<br />

Today, Bon Echo is <strong>the</strong> only provincial<br />

park in Ontario to <strong>of</strong>fi cially permit<br />

climbing, subject to certain conditions<br />

agreed to between <strong>the</strong> Park and <strong>the</strong> ACC.<br />

For example, new route activity and slinging<br />

<strong>of</strong> trees is banned; some routes have been<br />

closed or re-directed to protect pictographs;<br />

rappels and descent trails are strictly limited<br />

and any fi xed protection must be placed<br />

or replaced by <strong>the</strong> ACC with prior Park<br />

approval.<br />

Much <strong>of</strong> Bon Echo is multi-pitch,<br />

although <strong>the</strong> winding nature <strong>of</strong> its climbs<br />

means that pitches tend to be short, <strong>of</strong>ten<br />

less than 20 metres each. Routes require a<br />

variety <strong>of</strong> climbing techniques: smearing<br />

and edging on <strong>the</strong> slabs and thin faces;<br />

delicate traverses on invisible ledges high<br />

over water; and strenuous overhangs on<br />

sometimes less than perfect holds. Of <strong>the</strong><br />

110 routes that remain open, only about 30<br />

continued on page 14<br />

Found at Bon Echo<br />

by Kit Moore

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