A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada
A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada
A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada
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Montreal and <strong>the</strong> surrounding areas.<br />
Mazinaw Rock is a popular feature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Park, consisting <strong>of</strong> a massive rock face rising<br />
as high as 100 metres over a distance <strong>of</strong> two<br />
kilometres. <strong>The</strong> rock is metamorphosed<br />
granite, intruded by black dykes, <strong>for</strong>ming<br />
many left-leaning ramps, slabs and cracks<br />
on <strong>the</strong> cliff face.<br />
Bon Echo has an interesting and varied<br />
history. Early residents left evidence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
activities in primitive red ochre pictographs<br />
painted on <strong>the</strong> cliff at water’s edge. In<br />
1889, Mazinaw Rock and its adjacent<br />
lands were purchased and developed as a<br />
tourist attraction and eventually became<br />
<strong>the</strong> property <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> late Merrill Denison.<br />
During negotiations to turn over <strong>the</strong> land<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Province <strong>of</strong> Ontario, Denison wrote<br />
to Alan Bruce-Robertson, fi rst chair <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> newly <strong>for</strong>med <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
(ACC) Toronto Section, giving his blessing<br />
to continued climbing at Bon Echo, in<br />
<strong>the</strong>se words:<br />
Of course I have no objection to <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> visiting Bon Echo or<br />
climbing <strong>the</strong> Rock…at your own risk…I am<br />
glad to know you are going to go on enjoying<br />
<strong>the</strong> property…It’s a satisfaction to know<br />
that <strong>the</strong> Rock is fulfi lling such a purpose.<br />
– Excerpt from letter dated December 7,<br />
1957 and signed by Merrill Denison.<br />
Today, Bon Echo is <strong>the</strong> only provincial<br />
park in Ontario to <strong>of</strong>fi cially permit<br />
climbing, subject to certain conditions<br />
agreed to between <strong>the</strong> Park and <strong>the</strong> ACC.<br />
For example, new route activity and slinging<br />
<strong>of</strong> trees is banned; some routes have been<br />
closed or re-directed to protect pictographs;<br />
rappels and descent trails are strictly limited<br />
and any fi xed protection must be placed<br />
or replaced by <strong>the</strong> ACC with prior Park<br />
approval.<br />
Much <strong>of</strong> Bon Echo is multi-pitch,<br />
although <strong>the</strong> winding nature <strong>of</strong> its climbs<br />
means that pitches tend to be short, <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
less than 20 metres each. Routes require a<br />
variety <strong>of</strong> climbing techniques: smearing<br />
and edging on <strong>the</strong> slabs and thin faces;<br />
delicate traverses on invisible ledges high<br />
over water; and strenuous overhangs on<br />
sometimes less than perfect holds. Of <strong>the</strong><br />
110 routes that remain open, only about 30<br />
continued on page 14<br />
Found at Bon Echo<br />
by Kit Moore