A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada
A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada
A Passion for the Mountains - The Alpine Club of Canada
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Vol. 17, No. 2 ● Summer 2003<br />
A <strong>Passion</strong> <strong>for</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong><br />
page 16<br />
Climbing<br />
Treasure Found<br />
at Bon Echo<br />
page 12
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
Corporate Supporters<br />
<strong>The</strong> ACC thanks <strong>the</strong> following <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir support,<br />
and encourages you to consider <strong>the</strong>m and <strong>the</strong><br />
advertisers in this newsletter <strong>the</strong> next time you<br />
purchase goods or services <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> type <strong>the</strong>y <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />
Corporate Sponsors<br />
Explore Magazine<br />
Helly Hansen<br />
Marmot<br />
Mountain Hardwear<br />
<strong>The</strong> North Face<br />
Corporate Members<br />
Adventure Medical Kits<br />
Alberta Sport, Recreation, Parks & Wildlife<br />
Foundation<br />
Association <strong>of</strong> Canadian Mountain Guides<br />
Backcountry Access<br />
Black Diamond Equipment<br />
Canadian Avalanche Association<br />
Forty Below<br />
GearUp Sport (Canmore, AB)<br />
IBEX Outdoor Clothing<br />
Katadyn<br />
Leki<br />
Mammut<br />
Mountain Culture at <strong>The</strong> Banff Centre<br />
Mountain Safety Research (MSR)<br />
Patagonia<br />
Petzl<br />
<strong>The</strong> Hostel Shop (Calgary, AB)<br />
<strong>The</strong>rm-a-Rest<br />
TUA Ski<br />
Yamnuska (Canmore, AB)<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
Box 8040, Canmore,<br />
Alberta, <strong>Canada</strong> T1W 2T8<br />
Phone # (403) 678-3200<br />
Fax # (403) 678-3224<br />
info@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
David Toole, President<br />
Rod Plasman, Secretary<br />
Gord Currie, Treasurer<br />
Cam Roe, VP Activities<br />
Peter Muir, VP Access / Environment<br />
Carl Hannigan, VP Facilities<br />
Bob Sand<strong>for</strong>d, VP Mountain Culture<br />
David Zemrau, VP Services<br />
Mike Mortimer, Director, External Relations<br />
Peter Fuhrmann, Honorary President<br />
Bruce Keith, Executive Director<br />
Submissions to <strong>The</strong> Gazette are welcome! <strong>The</strong> deadline<br />
<strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> Fall issue <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gazette is August 15. If<br />
possible, please save your submission in digital <strong>for</strong>mat<br />
and e-mail it to gazette@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
O<strong>the</strong>rwise, feel free to type or handwrite it, making<br />
sure it’s double spaced and legible and mail it to <strong>the</strong><br />
address above. Please be sure to include complete<br />
contact in<strong>for</strong>mation with your submission.<br />
Gazette Editor: Bonnie Hamilton<br />
Assistant Editor: Lynn Martel<br />
Feature Writer: Amy Krause<br />
Photo Editors: Paul Thompson; Rob Alexander<br />
Publishing Coordinator: Audrey Wheeler<br />
Layout & Production: Suzan Chamney<br />
Advertising rate sheet available upon request.<br />
Please direct all advertising inquiries to Bruce<br />
Keith, National Offi ce (403) 678-3202 or by<br />
e-mail to: bkeith@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
Printed on recycled paper<br />
<strong>Canada</strong> Post Agreement Number 40009034<br />
Letter from <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />
Terrorism,<br />
war, fatal epidemics – so many lethal places in our world<br />
lately, so much strife. For some <strong>of</strong> us, understandably, <strong>the</strong><br />
backcountry has become less about ‘arriving at’ than ‘seeking refuge from’. But <strong>the</strong>se wild<br />
landscapes that grace us with rare moments <strong>of</strong> solitude and spiritual renewal are not benign.<br />
This was never more evident than last winter, when <strong>the</strong> Columbia and Rocky <strong>Mountains</strong><br />
developed <strong>the</strong>ir most deadly snowpacks in decades. Almost thirty souls perished in avalanches<br />
all told, perhaps <strong>the</strong> most heart-rending deaths being <strong>the</strong> seven avid teenagers on a high school<br />
fi eld trip at Rogers Pass. <strong>The</strong>se tragedies spawned a multitude <strong>of</strong> debates, recriminations and<br />
soul searching about <strong>the</strong> merits <strong>of</strong> ‘extreme’ activities, both amongst backcountry enthusiasts<br />
<strong>the</strong>mselves and <strong>the</strong> general public. As <strong>the</strong> controversy raged, though, one fact remained<br />
incontrovertible – <strong>the</strong> critical need <strong>for</strong> timely, accessible and comprehensive avalanche<br />
in<strong>for</strong>mation. It should <strong>of</strong>fend our sensibilities, <strong>the</strong>n, that at <strong>the</strong> precise moment this carnage<br />
was played out in <strong>the</strong> alpine, <strong>the</strong> Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA) struggled to raise a<br />
relatively paltry sum to fund its heavily subscribed Public Avalanche Bulletin. <strong>The</strong>re can be<br />
no silver lining to such a tragic loss <strong>of</strong> life, but one small mercy was announced last February<br />
by <strong>the</strong> Solicitor General <strong>for</strong> British Columbia, whose government has commissioned a<br />
multi-disciplinary review <strong>of</strong> all aspects <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> province’s avalanche protection, “including<br />
<strong>for</strong>ecasting, public education and awareness, up-to-date research and potential options <strong>for</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> avalanche bulletin”. Now that <strong>the</strong> fi rst step has been taken, let’s keep <strong>the</strong> pressure on<br />
through <strong>the</strong> summer. This is a good time to get involved by writing Rich Coleman (Minister<br />
<strong>of</strong> Public Safety and Solicitor General), Ralph Klein or Gordon Campbell – see our website<br />
under Community News <strong>for</strong> contact numbers. We should never again be in danger <strong>of</strong><br />
losing <strong>the</strong> CAA Public Avalanche Bulletin, leaving us better in<strong>for</strong>med to explore our winter<br />
sanctuary in <strong>the</strong> backcountry.<br />
Bonnie Hamilton<br />
What’s Inside...<br />
3 Editorial<br />
Letter from <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />
Heidi’s Hints<br />
4 Facilities<br />
To Every Place <strong>The</strong>re is a Season<br />
Kokanee Glacier Cabin<br />
6 Mountaineering / Climbing<br />
Competition Climbing<br />
Adventurers<br />
Pumpkins in Training<br />
Beef up that Belay!<br />
Liability in <strong>the</strong> Backcountry<br />
High Altitutude Guide Training<br />
Climbing Treasure Found at Bon<br />
Echo<br />
Tonquin Valley Tales and Turns<br />
16 Mountain Culture<br />
A <strong>Passion</strong> <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong><br />
Painting <strong>the</strong> Heart <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Rockies<br />
2003 Mountain Guides’ Ball<br />
18 International News<br />
Las Mujeres de Las Montanas 2002<br />
Water Wellness in <strong>the</strong> Backcountry<br />
21 National News<br />
National Offi ce News<br />
Leadership Workshop<br />
Volunteer Opportunities<br />
Trespassing at Backcountry Huts<br />
National Volunteer Awards<br />
Ski Mountaineering Competition<br />
22 Grants / Awards / Notices<br />
2003 Grant Project Summary<br />
What’s Outside...<br />
Front cover: Refl ections – Opabin Plateau; watercolour painting by Donna Jo Massie<br />
Front inset: Erica & Damon on One Pine at Bon Echo; photo by Mark Lord<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 3
To Every Place <strong>The</strong>re is a Season<br />
by Lynn Martel<br />
been to Wheeler Hut enough<br />
I’ve times over <strong>the</strong> years to<br />
have developed a visual and emotional<br />
expectation <strong>of</strong> what I anticipate fi nding each<br />
time I return – a deep impression <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> log<br />
cabin, <strong>the</strong> trees it’s nestled among and <strong>the</strong><br />
towering peaks surrounding it. It’s <strong>the</strong> only<br />
Wheeler Hut photo by Nancy Hansen<br />
Heidi’s Hints<br />
Dear Heidi,<br />
I’ve been sport climbing <strong>for</strong> several<br />
seasons now, both in <strong>the</strong> gym and at <strong>the</strong><br />
crags. Technically I’ve improved, but<br />
I’m still not com<strong>for</strong>table leading. I’m so<br />
nervous I can’t focus on <strong>the</strong> moves. How<br />
do I overcome this fear and become a leader<br />
instead <strong>of</strong> a follower?<br />
Sincerely, Dog on a Leash<br />
Dear Dog,<br />
First, realize you’re not alone. Ever<br />
noticed all that swaggering and posing at<br />
<strong>the</strong> crags? Well, it’s just to cover up <strong>the</strong><br />
quaking knees and sweating palms we all<br />
suffer from taking <strong>the</strong> sharp end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rope.<br />
It gets easier over time but <strong>the</strong> butterfl ies<br />
never completely fl y away; that’s partly what<br />
keeps us hooked on climbing. But while<br />
a bit <strong>of</strong> anxiety is thrilling and keeps our<br />
attention, it shouldn’t border on terror. So<br />
let’s discuss ways you can confi dently break<br />
into <strong>the</strong> leading world.<br />
First lesson – leave your ego at home.<br />
Self-image can only be a burden – a heavy<br />
weight you drag up <strong>the</strong> climb that only<br />
distracts you. That means you start by<br />
leading climbs two to four number grades<br />
below what you can toprope. Remember<br />
this is a riskier game – learning should be<br />
4 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003<br />
hut I’ve skied into long after sunset more<br />
than once, on purpose. So near <strong>the</strong> summit<br />
<strong>of</strong> Rogers Pass and <strong>the</strong> parking lot on <strong>the</strong><br />
Trans <strong>Canada</strong> Highway, Wheeler stands like<br />
a hospitable check-in centre, entry point to<br />
grand ski touring and climbing adventures<br />
beginning just beyond its latched doorway,<br />
up <strong>the</strong> Illecillewaet and Asulkan glaciers.<br />
Approaching <strong>the</strong><br />
hut after dark, I expect<br />
to see smoke puffi ng<br />
from <strong>the</strong> chimneys and<br />
mere slivers <strong>of</strong> light<br />
sneaking out from <strong>the</strong><br />
windows, illuminating<br />
only <strong>the</strong> tops <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
massive snowpiles that<br />
obscure <strong>the</strong>m. Following<br />
narrow ski tracks to <strong>the</strong><br />
back door, I expect <strong>the</strong><br />
outhouse path to be<br />
walled by snowbanks<br />
over my head. I expect<br />
to enter a lively, bustling<br />
fun; you can push arbitrary grades later. So,<br />
if you can toprope a 5.10 without hanging,<br />
start by leading a 5.7. Pick a friendly climb<br />
with lots <strong>of</strong> bolts. This will greatly reduce<br />
your nerves and you can always tell your<br />
friends you just need practice clipping bolts.<br />
A more scientifi c method is to divide <strong>the</strong><br />
length <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> climb by <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> bolts<br />
(including <strong>the</strong> anchors). This will give you<br />
some idea <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> average distance between<br />
<strong>the</strong> bolts (I like about three metres when<br />
climbing at my limit). And remember some<br />
sport routes are set up to stick clip <strong>the</strong> fi rst<br />
bolt. I’d recommend you do that anyway <strong>for</strong><br />
your fi rst few leads.<br />
Second, wear a helmet. That’s part <strong>of</strong><br />
leaving your ego at home. <strong>The</strong> consequences<br />
<strong>of</strong> a lead fall are serious, even on sport<br />
routes. With <strong>the</strong> new style <strong>of</strong> fashionable,<br />
lightweight helmets, well, <strong>the</strong>re’s just no<br />
excuse any more.<br />
Third, pick a belayer you trust will be<br />
patient, encouraging and attentive, not<br />
checking out <strong>the</strong> babes/hunks on <strong>the</strong> next<br />
route, or digging in <strong>the</strong> pack <strong>for</strong> food as you<br />
make that dicey clip. Confi dence in your<br />
belayer will add a tremendous psychological<br />
edge to your leads.<br />
Fourth, practice falling. Like many<br />
things in life, <strong>the</strong> fear <strong>of</strong> falling is <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
much worse than <strong>the</strong> actual act. If you are<br />
com<strong>for</strong>table with falling, you’ll be less afraid<br />
place; both fi replaces crackling with dry<br />
wood, voices and laughter fi lling <strong>the</strong> spaces<br />
between <strong>the</strong> ceiling beams.<br />
But in <strong>the</strong> winter <strong>of</strong> 2003, Wheeler Hut<br />
was quite a different place.<br />
I drove down from Mica Creek, two<br />
and a half hours north <strong>of</strong> Rogers Pass,<br />
where I’d been visiting some friends at a<br />
heli-skiing lodge. <strong>The</strong> brand new lodge<br />
boasted a spectacular stone fi replace,<br />
lea<strong>the</strong>r armchairs, a ro<strong>of</strong>top Jacuzzi with<br />
a mountain view, après ski sushi and a<br />
four-story climbing wall. I had left right<br />
be<strong>for</strong>e dinner and second-guessed my<br />
decision not to stay <strong>for</strong> that night’s party<br />
throughout my drive. But I was meeting<br />
friends early <strong>the</strong> next morning at <strong>the</strong> Rogers<br />
Pass info centre <strong>for</strong> a two night camping<br />
trip up Bostock Creek and reasoned that I<br />
would prefer to get <strong>the</strong> drive over with so I’d<br />
be well rested <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> ski.<br />
Be<strong>for</strong>e pulling into <strong>the</strong> parking lot I<br />
knew <strong>the</strong> snowbanks were pitifully low<br />
<strong>for</strong> mid-February – I’d seen more snow<br />
knowing <strong>the</strong> worst that can happen. Some<br />
climbers who feel edgy on a given day will<br />
take a practice fall or two just to put <strong>the</strong>m<br />
in <strong>the</strong> zone. This might best be practiced in<br />
<strong>the</strong> controlled environment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> gym, on<br />
an overhanging route with a knowledgeable<br />
belayer you’ve warned. Don’t grab anything<br />
with your hands, including <strong>the</strong> rope, watch<br />
your legs aren’t tangled in <strong>the</strong> rope and aim<br />
<strong>for</strong> a s<strong>of</strong>t landing with fl exed legs against<br />
<strong>the</strong> wall.<br />
Fifth, develop a system <strong>for</strong> clipping.<br />
Always rack your biners <strong>the</strong> same way on<br />
your harness, in terms <strong>of</strong> how many per side,<br />
order from short to long, orientation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
gates. Discuss with your belayer whe<strong>the</strong>r or<br />
not you want a spot to <strong>the</strong> fi rst bolt, if you’ll<br />
shout <strong>for</strong> slack, etc. Be consistent. Soon<br />
you’ll be so effi cient at clipping, it’ll be as<br />
natural as chalking up.<br />
Finally, build a pyramid. Once you’ve<br />
led that fi rst 5.7, lead a bunch more be<strong>for</strong>e<br />
hopping on a 5.8. And be<strong>for</strong>e leading a 5.9,<br />
lead more 5.7s and 5.8s. This is known as a<br />
pyramid, where each progression in diffi culty<br />
is founded on an ever-widening base <strong>of</strong> easier<br />
routes. Who knows, maybe some day you’ll<br />
fi nd yourself tying in at <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> some<br />
insanely overhanging crimp-fest in <strong>the</strong> south<br />
<strong>of</strong> France. And, if that’s <strong>the</strong> case, be sure to<br />
take your ego with you.<br />
See you at <strong>the</strong> crags, Heidi
some Novembers. <strong>The</strong> shallow snowpack<br />
had already contributed to two recent<br />
avalanches, <strong>the</strong> fi rst <strong>of</strong> which took <strong>the</strong> lives<br />
<strong>of</strong> seven guests from a ski touring lodge<br />
not far away in <strong>the</strong> Selkirk <strong>Mountains</strong>.<br />
Less than two weeks later, seven Calgary<br />
high school students had lost <strong>the</strong>ir lives in<br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r avalanche only a few kilometres<br />
from Wheeler Hut, as <strong>the</strong>y skied up <strong>the</strong><br />
well-travelled Connaught Creek trail. <strong>The</strong>ir<br />
young smiling faces had fi lled <strong>the</strong> pages<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Calgary newspapers every day since<br />
and I was not surprised to fi nd <strong>the</strong> usually<br />
crammed parking lot less than one-third<br />
full.<br />
My fi rst view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hut startled me – <strong>the</strong><br />
windows were visible almost down to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
lowers sills. <strong>The</strong> hut seemed naked without<br />
<strong>the</strong> usual monstrous snowbanks. For <strong>the</strong><br />
fi rst time ever in winter, I could still hear<br />
<strong>the</strong> semis on <strong>the</strong> highway.<br />
Inside though, I heard laughter and <strong>the</strong><br />
pleasing strumming <strong>of</strong> a guitar. In <strong>the</strong> living<br />
room I recognized friends from Calgary. In<br />
<strong>the</strong> kitchen I spoke with a woman cleaning<br />
up her family’s dishes. Her son, playing<br />
board games in <strong>the</strong> adjacent room, attended<br />
<strong>the</strong> same high school as <strong>the</strong> avalanche<br />
victims. He was coping well, she said, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
were a year older than him and he didn’t<br />
know <strong>the</strong>m well, but he was bummed all <strong>of</strong><br />
his school’s winter trips had been cancelled,<br />
including one to a lift serviced ski area.<br />
Several o<strong>the</strong>r families would join <strong>the</strong>m at<br />
<strong>the</strong> hut <strong>the</strong> following day and I was pleased<br />
<strong>the</strong>y’d chosen that place to be toge<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
As <strong>the</strong> last person up that night, I turned<br />
<strong>of</strong>f all <strong>the</strong> lanterns and sat with my feet up<br />
next to <strong>the</strong> living room fi replace. <strong>The</strong> smell<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> woodstove, <strong>the</strong> s<strong>of</strong>t glowing light, <strong>the</strong><br />
simple quiet – I realized I had left <strong>the</strong> heliski<br />
lodge because with all that stuff, something<br />
big was missing. And I had found it.<br />
A few weeks later, I returned to Wheeler<br />
Hut with my sister, Daisy. It was our fi rst<br />
hut trip toge<strong>the</strong>r since she gave birth to my<br />
niece three years ago. That day, <strong>the</strong> hut was<br />
surrounded by high snowbanks, revealing<br />
only window tops. But as we tossed our<br />
sleeping bags upstairs, we noticed only two<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs. Mark and Joe, a pair <strong>of</strong> guides whose<br />
students were learning how to winter camp,<br />
lounged by <strong>the</strong> woodstove, assuring us <strong>the</strong>y<br />
already knew how to camp. Outside, high<br />
avalanche hazard would limit ski options<br />
<strong>for</strong> all <strong>of</strong> us. <strong>The</strong> hut wasn’t as bustling as<br />
I pictured it in winter, but Daisy clobbered<br />
me at gin rummy, just as I pictured her<br />
doing as long as I could remember.<br />
And <strong>the</strong>n I realized, maybe <strong>the</strong> building<br />
wasn’t really cold and empty. Places have<br />
cycles. <strong>The</strong>y fl ourish, <strong>the</strong>y wane, like<br />
wildfl owers. <strong>The</strong> winter was a serious time.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Iraq war engaged people in strong<br />
debates. We all have a picture <strong>of</strong> how we’d<br />
like <strong>the</strong> world to look, but it doesn’t work<br />
that way. A few weeks earlier some friends<br />
lost <strong>the</strong>ir toddler to SIDS. When a couple<br />
brings a child into <strong>the</strong> world <strong>the</strong>y expect<br />
to participate in that child’s growing up,<br />
his fi rst day <strong>of</strong> school, his high school<br />
graduation. <strong>The</strong>y don’t expect that child to<br />
be gone just as he’s learning his fi rst words.<br />
No parents expect <strong>the</strong>ir child not to come<br />
home from an exciting backcountry ski<br />
trip.<br />
If I think <strong>of</strong> Rogers Pass, I envision<br />
climbing high onto glaciers, inhaling<br />
great mountain views and exhaling as I<br />
sink my boards into deep powder turns.<br />
Those who visited Glacier House a century<br />
ago probably didn’t envision <strong>the</strong> glaciers<br />
retreating so high up <strong>the</strong> valleys. <strong>The</strong>y<br />
probably didn’t envision Glacier House<br />
losing its popularity, being reduced to a<br />
few stone ruins in a meadow <strong>of</strong> asters and<br />
buttercups.<br />
This winter I learned to love Wheeler<br />
Hut <strong>the</strong> way it is at any given moment,<br />
not lamenting what was missing, but by<br />
celebrating what was <strong>the</strong>re. Spending two<br />
days with my sister, skiing in <strong>the</strong> valley<br />
bottom and turning back be<strong>for</strong>e reaching<br />
<strong>the</strong> run out zone <strong>of</strong> Illecillewaet practice<br />
slopes, was two wonderful days in <strong>the</strong><br />
mountains, part <strong>of</strong> a perfect cycle.<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 5
Kokanee Glacier Cabin<br />
<strong>The</strong><br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
(ACC) has been awarded a<br />
contract by BC Parks to operate <strong>the</strong> new<br />
Kokanee Glacier Cabin, as well as <strong>the</strong><br />
Woodbury and Silverspray Cabins and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Kaslo Lake campground in Kokanee<br />
Glacier Provincial Park, north <strong>of</strong> Nelson,<br />
B.C. <strong>The</strong> ACC will begin operating <strong>the</strong><br />
cabins and campground in June <strong>of</strong> 2003.<br />
<strong>The</strong> stunning new Kokanee Glacier Cabin<br />
is located to best take advantage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
endless backcountry hiking and skiing<br />
terrain. Visitors will enjoy an experience<br />
<strong>the</strong>y will not <strong>for</strong>get.<br />
<strong>The</strong> ruggedly beautiful Kokanee<br />
Glacier Provincial Park boasts 85 km <strong>of</strong><br />
well-marked summer trails with over 30<br />
lakes that <strong>of</strong>fer good fi shing <strong>for</strong> rainbow<br />
and cutthroat trout, and excellent<br />
backcountry adventure <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> whole<br />
family. In winter, <strong>the</strong> abundance <strong>of</strong> cold<br />
dry powder and north facing slopes make<br />
<strong>for</strong> a world renowned backcountry skier’s<br />
paradise. This park is appropriate <strong>for</strong><br />
skiers, hikers and climbers with all levels <strong>of</strong><br />
outdoor experience.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Kokanee Glacier Cabin was built<br />
as a result <strong>of</strong> campaign ef<strong>for</strong>ts carried<br />
out in memory <strong>of</strong> Michel Trudeau and<br />
<strong>the</strong> many o<strong>the</strong>r Canadians who have lost<br />
6 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir lives enjoying <strong>Canada</strong>’s backcountry.<br />
<strong>The</strong> national Kokanee Glacier <strong>Alpine</strong><br />
Campaign, spearheaded by BC Parks in<br />
2000, with <strong>the</strong> support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Friends <strong>of</strong><br />
West Kootenay Parks and <strong>the</strong> family <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>for</strong>mer Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau<br />
surpassed its fundraising goal <strong>of</strong> $900,000.<br />
In total, $974,200 was raised. <strong>The</strong> funding<br />
was used to meet <strong>the</strong> goals <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kokanee<br />
Glacier <strong>Alpine</strong> Campaign: to build a new<br />
alpine hut to accommodate <strong>the</strong> increasing<br />
demands from backcountry enthusiasts;<br />
and to raise national awareness about<br />
backcountry safety. Part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> funds will<br />
be used to restore <strong>the</strong> historic Slocan Chief<br />
Cabin in Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park<br />
as a backcountry interpretive centre. In<br />
addition, $40,000 was donated to <strong>the</strong><br />
Canadian Avalanche Association to help<br />
maintain <strong>the</strong> Public Avalanche Bulletin<br />
and ensure it is regularly updated.<br />
For more in<strong>for</strong>mation on <strong>the</strong> Kokanee<br />
Glacier Park facilities visit <strong>the</strong> ACC’s<br />
website at www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
To make a reservation at <strong>the</strong><br />
Kokanee Glacier Cabin, Woodbury<br />
Cabin, Silverspray Cabin, or Kaslo<br />
Lake Campground, call <strong>the</strong> ACC<br />
at 403-678-3200, ext. 1 or email<br />
info@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
Competition<br />
by David Dornian<br />
Competition climbing continues to<br />
evolve in <strong>Canada</strong>. Remember <strong>the</strong><br />
Nineties? When strong young climbers were<br />
exploding out <strong>of</strong> newly built climbing gyms<br />
all across <strong>the</strong> country during <strong>the</strong> initial<br />
boom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sport, threatening <strong>the</strong> middleaged<br />
complacency <strong>of</strong> mountain doyens and<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> (ACC) Section<br />
pundits? <strong>The</strong>se athletes are now maturing.<br />
Per<strong>for</strong>mance standards are higher, training<br />
science is better and coaches are growing<br />
savvier with every passing season. What<br />
were once fl edgling teams now have regional<br />
reputations. And while Youth events remain<br />
<strong>the</strong> driving <strong>for</strong>ce behind <strong>the</strong> sport in North<br />
America – nobody can organize an activity<br />
<strong>the</strong> way concerned parents can – interest in<br />
Open category competition <strong>for</strong> all ages and<br />
skill levels is growing again, particularly in<br />
<strong>the</strong> fun and spectator-friendly Bouldering<br />
<strong>for</strong>mats. Every event is a party. Even some<br />
<strong>of</strong> those grouchy old Masters can now be<br />
found throwing down with <strong>the</strong> local kids,<br />
purely in <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> a fun Friday night.<br />
<strong>The</strong> ACC is as involved as ever.<br />
Compétition d’Escalade <strong>Canada</strong> (CEC)<br />
athletes are beginning to understand<br />
that <strong>the</strong>y are an actual part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ACC.<br />
Our club’s commitment sustains <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
sport’s organization and provides essential<br />
administrative infrastructure. By becoming<br />
a member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong>, which is what<br />
happens when climbers join Competition<br />
Climbing <strong>Canada</strong> / Compétition d’Escalade<br />
<strong>Canada</strong>, every registrant in one <strong>of</strong> our<br />
sanctioned competitions links <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />
to an international sports governing body<br />
through <strong>the</strong> Union Internationale des<br />
Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA). Every<br />
year, Canadian champions are named to<br />
our national teams and go on to compete<br />
worldwide as our country’s representatives.<br />
<strong>The</strong> ACC applies <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir international<br />
licenses and registers <strong>the</strong>m <strong>for</strong> competitions<br />
around <strong>the</strong> globe.<br />
Because <strong>of</strong> this global involvement,<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong>’s old National Sport<br />
Climbing Committee (NSCC), which <strong>for</strong><br />
a while became <strong>the</strong> Canadian Competition<br />
Climbing Committee (CCCC), has been<br />
once again renamed to effect a proper<br />
national image as Competition Climbing<br />
<strong>Canada</strong> / Compétition d’Escalade <strong>Canada</strong>.<br />
Sports <strong>Canada</strong> will recognize us yet! This<br />
year we will <strong>of</strong>fer a calendar <strong>of</strong> more<br />
than 20 local, regional, and national-level
Climbing<br />
competitions hosted from one coast to<br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r. At <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> it all, a team <strong>of</strong><br />
males and females will be selected, coached<br />
and <strong>of</strong>fered a chance to travel to <strong>the</strong> World<br />
Championships next fall in Europe. And<br />
if <strong>the</strong>y do as well as our competitors did<br />
last year, when young Canadians placed<br />
repeatedly in <strong>the</strong> top ten, actually winning<br />
in some categories against <strong>the</strong> best from <strong>the</strong><br />
biggest climbing federations, <strong>the</strong>n it will be<br />
a successful season indeed.<br />
Current membership in <strong>the</strong> CEC<br />
consists <strong>of</strong> approximately 93 athletes and<br />
10-plus active committee members. Many<br />
more will join and participate through single<br />
event memberships as <strong>the</strong> competition<br />
season matures and <strong>the</strong>y connect with <strong>the</strong><br />
club as competitions are held in <strong>the</strong>ir home<br />
areas. A large number <strong>of</strong> regional organizers,<br />
coaches and sponsors maintain contact<br />
with <strong>the</strong> CEC through individual events,<br />
promotions, clinics and competitions.<br />
National Championships in three different<br />
<strong>for</strong>mats will be held – Diffi culty in Banff<br />
over <strong>the</strong> Victoria Day weekend, Bouldering<br />
in Toronto at Joe Rockhead’s on Mo<strong>the</strong>rs’<br />
Day and Youth Diffi culty in Saskatoon at<br />
Vic’s Vertical Walls on <strong>Canada</strong> Day. Our list<br />
<strong>of</strong> contacts goes on <strong>for</strong> miles and includes<br />
virtually every active climbing organization<br />
in <strong>the</strong> country.<br />
As <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> committee’s most recent<br />
elections in <strong>the</strong> fall <strong>of</strong> 2002, Chris Neve<br />
heads <strong>the</strong> CEC’s Youth Division, Andy<br />
Weldon leads CEC Open and Dave<br />
Dornian continues as chair <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> committee<br />
and liaison with <strong>the</strong> ACC <strong>of</strong>fi ce. <strong>The</strong> 2003<br />
Annual General Meeting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> CEC<br />
will occur in Saskatoon over <strong>Canada</strong> Day<br />
Weekend, in conjunction with <strong>the</strong> Youth<br />
National Championships. Come out and see<br />
<strong>the</strong> kids crank. Or if you just want to fi nd<br />
out a little more about what’s happening on<br />
<strong>the</strong> cutting edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> up-and-comers, log<br />
onto www.cec.homestead.com<br />
Most questions about schedules,<br />
registration, costs and <strong>the</strong> calendar can be<br />
answered by <strong>the</strong> CEC website. It contains<br />
documents, rules, <strong>for</strong>ms and photographs<br />
and it features <strong>the</strong> ACC logo along with<br />
links to o<strong>the</strong>r <strong>Club</strong> in<strong>for</strong>mation. Competitor<br />
placings are posted immediately following<br />
major competitions and an ongoing<br />
ranking is kept where athletes can compare<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir per<strong>for</strong>mances with o<strong>the</strong>rs in <strong>Canada</strong>.<br />
David Dornian is <strong>the</strong> chair <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ACC<br />
Competition Climbing Committee.<br />
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you attended an ACC Mountain Adventure in 2003, or if you traveled in <strong>the</strong><br />
mountains at all, we would love it if you will share your photos with us <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> 2004<br />
brochure! You won’t get rich (we do not pay anything), but you will get famous (a photo<br />
credit). Have a look at <strong>the</strong> 2003 Mountain Adventures & <strong>Alpine</strong> Huts brochure or on <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Club</strong>’s website to see <strong>the</strong> type <strong>of</strong> shots we are looking <strong>for</strong>.<br />
We can accept slides, negatives, high resolution digital images or photographs. Please send<br />
your pictures to: Suzan Chamney, P.O. Box 8040, Canmore, AB, <strong>Canada</strong> T1W 2T8 or e-mail<br />
schamney@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 7
Pumpkins in Training<br />
Winter Leadership Course 2003<br />
by Hinrich Schaefer<br />
“Pumpkin<br />
colored” is<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
comments about our course habit – <strong>the</strong><br />
orange vests provided by our sponsor, <strong>The</strong><br />
North Face. So here are <strong>the</strong> ten <strong>of</strong> us, plus<br />
three mountain guides, ready to turn us<br />
from pumpkins into competent trip leaders<br />
<strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> (ACC).<br />
<strong>The</strong> setting couldn’t be better than <strong>the</strong><br />
Vista Lodge in <strong>the</strong> Esplanade Range near<br />
Golden, BC, although I am not sure that<br />
all <strong>the</strong> untouched powder slopes around<br />
and <strong>the</strong> spectacular views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Selkirks<br />
and Rockies are conducive to concentrating<br />
on <strong>the</strong> material we are to learn. Ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />
‘problem’ is <strong>the</strong> food – so plentiful and tasty<br />
that after <strong>the</strong> meals we <strong>of</strong>ten feel too satisfi ed<br />
to move. “Skiing on 6,000 calories a day,” is<br />
<strong>the</strong> kitchen motto and Daryl executes it<br />
with a variety <strong>of</strong> fl avors and elaborate dishes<br />
that more than outweigh <strong>the</strong> cold and <strong>the</strong><br />
exercise. O<strong>the</strong>r com<strong>for</strong>ts aren’t amiss ei<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
A warm and cozy hut, com<strong>for</strong>table bedding<br />
and a sauna to rinse <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> day’s sweat make<br />
life in <strong>the</strong> mountains more than bearable.<br />
And <strong>of</strong> course <strong>the</strong>re are a total <strong>of</strong> 14<br />
people full <strong>of</strong> interesting experiences,<br />
attitudes and opinions. <strong>The</strong>re is John, who<br />
quietly takes on every chore around <strong>the</strong> hut<br />
but will also cram his endlessly tall body into<br />
<strong>the</strong> kid’s toboggan to go <strong>for</strong> a ride; Danielle,<br />
who out-smiles <strong>the</strong> sun and draws from her<br />
expedition experience in a charming French<br />
Canadian accent; Martin, as much at home<br />
8 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003<br />
photo by Bruce Hardardt<br />
in <strong>the</strong> snow pr<strong>of</strong>i le pit as when ripping it up<br />
on <strong>the</strong> slopes or playing <strong>the</strong> guitar; Bruce,<br />
able and eager to take on responsibility;<br />
Bonnie, whose fl ashy fake leopard skin<br />
hat is in contrast to her quiet competence;<br />
Albert, soon battling a cold which he won’t<br />
let get in <strong>the</strong> way <strong>of</strong> his learning or his fun;<br />
Tony, whose course script might be more<br />
comprehensive than Freedom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hills;<br />
Rob, proving that less advanced skiers can be<br />
<strong>the</strong> best leaders; Sylvia, integrating everyone<br />
and harmonizing group and decisions; and<br />
me, struggling as to whe<strong>the</strong>r I should give<br />
skis, notebook or camera <strong>the</strong> priority.<br />
Toge<strong>the</strong>r we represent six different club<br />
sections ranging from West Coast cement<br />
to Rockies’ powder. With <strong>the</strong>se diverse<br />
geographical and personal backgrounds<br />
<strong>the</strong> three guides know that <strong>the</strong>ir job is not<br />
to teach, but to facilitate our learning. Of<br />
course <strong>the</strong>re are <strong>the</strong>ory lessons, but mostly<br />
<strong>the</strong>y share <strong>the</strong>ir knowledge and experience<br />
by modeling and guiding us when we<br />
take charge ourselves during <strong>the</strong> different<br />
exercises, each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m according to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
own character – Cyril, who would put most<br />
show masters to shame, Peter, observantly<br />
trusting us and Brad, laughing away <strong>the</strong><br />
mistakes that would cut into his powder<br />
runs. This way we learn and review snow<br />
stability and avalanche hazard, route fi nding<br />
and track setting, avalanche and crevasse<br />
rescue, navigation and trip planning, short<br />
roping and downhill leading. We learn, try<br />
out and take charge. It is demanding to<br />
make <strong>the</strong> calls, weighing challenge against<br />
safety, while being watched by your peers<br />
and <strong>the</strong> guide, and to fi nd that too much<br />
cannot be explained in words. Group<br />
handling, decision-making and confl ict<br />
management are just a few <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> problems<br />
that can’t be solved by following a rigid<br />
scheme. Here, I fi nd, Brad, Peter and Cyril<br />
do <strong>the</strong>ir best job. <strong>The</strong>y make clear that only<br />
work and experience will get you <strong>the</strong>re and<br />
that it is a long road to travel, but <strong>the</strong>y don’t<br />
leave you discouraged. <strong>The</strong>y show that you<br />
are already on your way and steadily making<br />
progress.<br />
By <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> week, after many an<br />
ascent with wonderful views and countless<br />
downhill turns in <strong>the</strong> dry powder, we have<br />
grown toge<strong>the</strong>r as a group. Each <strong>of</strong> us has<br />
grown a bit more into <strong>the</strong> uni<strong>for</strong>mly too<br />
large North Face leadership vests.<br />
<strong>The</strong> participants were Rob Hafer,<br />
Danielle Tardif, Bruce Hardardt, Bonnie<br />
Hamilton, Albert Schwarz, Martin Ederle,<br />
John Huybers, Tony Knight, Sylvia Moser,<br />
Hinrich Schaefer, Daryl Ross (cooking<br />
and tele-turns) and Brad Harrison, Peter<br />
Amman, Cyril Shokoples (mountain<br />
guides).
Beef up that Belay!<br />
by Murray T<strong>of</strong>t<br />
<strong>The</strong><br />
sport climbing mantra, “If<br />
you’re not fl ying, you’re not<br />
trying,” has accepted and expected falling<br />
as normal behavior in rock climbing.<br />
<strong>The</strong> widespread growth <strong>of</strong> bolted climbs<br />
has defi nitely contributed to <strong>the</strong> rise in<br />
physical achievement and creativity since<br />
<strong>the</strong> consequences <strong>of</strong> falling have been<br />
minimized.<br />
If and when <strong>the</strong> next step is taken<br />
and climbers move from <strong>the</strong> cleaned and<br />
prepared playground <strong>of</strong> bolted climbs to<br />
jump onto more committing multi-pitch<br />
alpine rock, a corresponding skill set must<br />
widen and deepen to<br />
keep things safe. And<br />
<strong>the</strong> bottom line <strong>of</strong> safety<br />
here is <strong>the</strong> belay. Thirty<br />
years ago, refl ecting<br />
on his Yosemite wall<br />
climbs, Tom Frost told<br />
me he wasn’t afraid<br />
<strong>of</strong> doing anything up<br />
<strong>the</strong>re, as long as he knew<br />
that <strong>the</strong> belay WOULD<br />
NOT FAIL.<br />
Since <strong>the</strong>n, I’ve been<br />
party to, or witness to,<br />
or chatted with, victims <strong>of</strong> long falls on<br />
multi-pitch alpine rock. <strong>The</strong> natural fi rst<br />
reaction is to focus on <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> repair <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> leader. However, in cases where lead pro<br />
had failed, <strong>the</strong> impact <strong>for</strong>ce that came on<br />
<strong>the</strong> belayer was really quite shocking. <strong>The</strong><br />
belayers suffered serious injuries as well as<br />
<strong>the</strong> leader. To hold a leader fall <strong>of</strong> any length<br />
directly on <strong>the</strong> harness ei<strong>the</strong>r be<strong>for</strong>e <strong>the</strong><br />
leader can get gear in, or in <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> failed<br />
protection, is a scenario with ugly potential<br />
<strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> belayer. <strong>The</strong>re is great potential <strong>for</strong><br />
injury to <strong>the</strong> lower back or at least buckling<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> belayer’s legs, which could contribute<br />
to a failed belay. Additional injuries range<br />
from <strong>the</strong> belayer suffering from major body<br />
hammering and bruising, to having seriously<br />
burned hands, to being concussed into a<br />
state <strong>of</strong> dysfunction and unable to respond<br />
adequately to <strong>the</strong> evolving situation.<br />
Since standard practice in North America<br />
is to belay <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> harness ra<strong>the</strong>r than<br />
directly from a bomb-pro<strong>of</strong> fi xed anchor<br />
ring (some areas in Europe), it is vital that<br />
we enhance <strong>the</strong> belay to alleviate impact<br />
<strong>for</strong>ces on <strong>the</strong> body. We can do this easily<br />
by redirecting <strong>the</strong> active rope to <strong>the</strong> climber<br />
through an independent, bombpro<strong>of</strong><br />
placement. <strong>The</strong> most perfect arrangement<br />
would have this high and slightly <strong>of</strong>f to <strong>the</strong><br />
active rope side within com<strong>for</strong>table reach<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> belay anchors. By doing so we create<br />
similar rope mechanics to that which we use<br />
in top-roping situations. Conventionally,<br />
however, we see most climbers resorting to<br />
using one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> higher pieces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> belay<br />
<strong>for</strong> this action.<br />
In ei<strong>the</strong>r case, when we re-direct <strong>the</strong><br />
rope this way, we incorporate in <strong>the</strong> belay<br />
system a critical turnaround that <strong>the</strong> live<br />
rope runs over. <strong>The</strong> more acute <strong>the</strong> angle <strong>of</strong><br />
this bend, <strong>the</strong> more friction, and <strong>the</strong> s<strong>of</strong>ter<br />
<strong>the</strong> ‘catch’ <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> belayer when a fall occurs.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> same time, <strong>the</strong> belayer’s braking<br />
hand pulls down, a biomechanically and<br />
physically more effective position to create<br />
braking <strong>for</strong>ces.<br />
In this arrangement it is vital that extra<br />
‘low’ gear is placed in <strong>the</strong> belay anchor<br />
confi guration and cinched tightly to <strong>the</strong><br />
higher piece(s) to prevent <strong>the</strong>m from<br />
lifting. This ‘pieces in opposition’ concept<br />
is especially <strong>the</strong> case if spring-loaded<br />
camming devices are used. <strong>The</strong>y should not<br />
be allowed to shift or walk when load comes<br />
on <strong>the</strong> focal point (attachment point) <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
belay.<br />
When swinging leads, <strong>the</strong> redirect<br />
becomes <strong>the</strong> fi rst runner as <strong>the</strong> second moves<br />
into <strong>the</strong> lead and eliminates <strong>the</strong> possibility<br />
<strong>of</strong> a ‘fall factor 2’<br />
on <strong>the</strong> belayer (<strong>the</strong><br />
worst case scenario).<br />
Now it becomes<br />
<strong>the</strong> responsibility <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> leader to take<br />
advantage <strong>of</strong> obvious<br />
gear placements<br />
within <strong>the</strong> fi rst few<br />
meters <strong>of</strong> leaving<br />
<strong>the</strong> belay. This can<br />
be as important on<br />
easy rock as it is on<br />
higher angle terrain,<br />
especially in loose s<strong>of</strong>t-rock climbing areas<br />
(Rockies). Falling hazards from above, wet<br />
rock and <strong>the</strong> potential <strong>for</strong> holds breaking,<br />
increase <strong>the</strong> risk <strong>for</strong> leader falls. If a hold<br />
breaks early in <strong>the</strong> pitch, on easy terrain<br />
without intermediate protection, <strong>the</strong> full<br />
<strong>for</strong>ce <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fall would come on <strong>the</strong> belayer.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> aftermath, both parties want <strong>the</strong><br />
belayer’s hands to be functional and able to<br />
deal with <strong>the</strong> subsequent response; to ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />
continue belaying, or lowering, or creating<br />
a hoisting system. We must strive to protect<br />
those hands with creative anchor rigs.<br />
Murray T<strong>of</strong>t sits on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Canada</strong>’s Safety Committee.<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 9
Liability in <strong>the</strong> Backcountry<br />
by John Savage<br />
One<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most dangerous<br />
activities taken each day,<br />
without much thought, is driving an<br />
automobile. Driving an automobile is<br />
more dangerous than backcountry skiing<br />
or mountaineering, although life insurers<br />
don’t ask whe<strong>the</strong>r we are drivers. That said,<br />
as mountaineers or backcountry skiers we<br />
must be vigilant about many aspects <strong>of</strong><br />
safety and this has recently been highlighted<br />
by <strong>the</strong> deaths in British Columbia <strong>of</strong> 14<br />
backcountry skiers by avalanche near<br />
Revelstoke in January 2003.<br />
So what are <strong>the</strong> obligations and liabilities<br />
<strong>of</strong> guides and o<strong>the</strong>rs when taking to <strong>the</strong><br />
backcountry? <strong>The</strong> cornerstone <strong>of</strong> liability<br />
photo by John Derick<br />
10 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003<br />
and legal obligation is <strong>the</strong> duty <strong>of</strong> care<br />
owed our legal neighbours, <strong>the</strong> standards<br />
to which a guide or leader and organization<br />
must adhere and that will be applied when<br />
we join an <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> (ACC)<br />
adventure.<br />
Contracts can protect and defi ne<br />
liabilities – and provide a useful reminder <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> dangers inherent in <strong>the</strong> activities we love.<br />
<strong>The</strong> ACC requires that participants in any<br />
activity sign a waiver and release <strong>of</strong> liability.<br />
This document draws <strong>the</strong> participant’s<br />
attention to <strong>the</strong> dangers involved in <strong>the</strong>se<br />
activities and releases <strong>the</strong> <strong>Club</strong>, its staff,<br />
leaders and guides from all liability whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />
or not attributable to negligence. But what<br />
are <strong>the</strong> legal consequences <strong>of</strong> signing a<br />
waiver?<br />
Waiver <strong>of</strong> Liability<br />
<strong>The</strong> waiver <strong>of</strong> liability most guides and<br />
organizations require recognizes that <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are inherent and sometimes unpredictable<br />
dangers associated with mountaineering.<br />
It is more than just a reminder, though,<br />
as it serves to protect <strong>the</strong>se individuals and<br />
organizations who dedicate <strong>the</strong>ir lives to our<br />
enjoyment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se challenges. If liability<br />
were found, a single accident could easily<br />
bankrupt an individual or an organization.<br />
Without this protection, guiding as an<br />
activity and organizations promoting or<br />
facilitating mountaineering would be<br />
severely curtailed.<br />
In 1991 nine people were killed<br />
by an avalanche while heli-skiing in<br />
High Altitude Guide Training<br />
This<br />
summer, <strong>the</strong> International Federation <strong>for</strong> Mountain Guide Associations<br />
(IFMGA) is running its fi rst specialist course in high altitude guiding <strong>for</strong><br />
pr<strong>of</strong>essional mountain guides. <strong>The</strong> course will bring toge<strong>the</strong>r some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most experienced<br />
high altitude mountain guides to provide pr<strong>of</strong>essional training <strong>for</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r guides wishing to<br />
lead parties at high altitude. <strong>The</strong> course is being held in Chamonix, France and is being<br />
organized by Steve Bell, president <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> IFMGA High Altitude Working Group.<br />
“This course represents a very important step <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> IFMGA as it will mean that <strong>the</strong><br />
IFMGA qualifi ed guides can add high altitude training to <strong>the</strong>ir pr<strong>of</strong>essional qualifi cations.<br />
Obviously, not all pr<strong>of</strong>essional mountain guides will want to lead parties at high altitude,<br />
but those who do now have a specialist training programme. This step by <strong>the</strong> IFMGA<br />
will help to promote good standards and will mean, as in o<strong>the</strong>r mountain ranges, that <strong>the</strong><br />
IFMGA badge is <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essional qualifi cation to look <strong>for</strong>,” Bell said.<br />
Bell is also <strong>the</strong> chairman <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> International Guiding Organisations 8000 (IGO8000)<br />
and has helped to develop training opportunities <strong>for</strong> leaders and Sherpas in <strong>the</strong><br />
Himalayan countries. Such training is a vital part <strong>of</strong> developing appropriate standards <strong>for</strong><br />
commercial treks and expeditions and promoting sustainable development <strong>for</strong> mountain<br />
communities.<br />
<strong>the</strong> Bugaboos. Twelve skiers and <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
guide were beginning <strong>the</strong> last run <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
afternoon. <strong>The</strong> skiing conditions were<br />
spectacular. <strong>The</strong> skiers assembled at <strong>the</strong> base<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last run named Holy Shit. <strong>The</strong>y were<br />
going to ski Bay Street, which is made up<br />
<strong>of</strong> three shaped features converging about<br />
midway down <strong>the</strong> slope into one large route<br />
to <strong>the</strong> bottom. After <strong>the</strong> guide provided<br />
instructions and commenced leading <strong>the</strong><br />
group down, a tidal wave <strong>of</strong> snow swept<br />
everything be<strong>for</strong>e it. A textbook rescue<br />
was underway within minutes. All nine<br />
bodies were found within 45 minutes.<br />
Miraculously <strong>the</strong> guide survived.<br />
<strong>The</strong> guides and heli-skiing company<br />
were sued by one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> unhappy families.<br />
A waiver <strong>of</strong> liability had been signed by all<br />
<strong>the</strong> skiers, some <strong>of</strong> whom were not native<br />
English speakers. <strong>The</strong> courts have found<br />
that <strong>the</strong>re is no general requirement that a<br />
party tendering a document <strong>for</strong> signature<br />
take reasonable steps to apprise <strong>the</strong> signing<br />
party <strong>of</strong> onerous terms or to ensure that<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are read and understood. It is only<br />
where <strong>the</strong> circumstances are such that a<br />
reasonable person should have known that<br />
<strong>the</strong> party signing was not consenting to<br />
<strong>the</strong> terms that such an obligation in law<br />
arises. In this case <strong>the</strong> waiver had been<br />
sent by mail, it was written in English and<br />
<strong>the</strong> client was a <strong>for</strong>eign businessman who<br />
had an opportunity to read it or have it<br />
translated. By signing <strong>the</strong> waiver <strong>the</strong> Court<br />
found he was prepared to be bound by <strong>the</strong><br />
contract, whe<strong>the</strong>r he had actually read and<br />
understood it or not.<br />
<strong>The</strong> waiver was not misleading. It stated<br />
<strong>the</strong> dangers in frank terms. It warned <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
danger <strong>of</strong> avalanche. It expressly excluded<br />
liability <strong>for</strong> negligence. <strong>The</strong> court found that<br />
if <strong>the</strong>re was negligence it was covered by <strong>the</strong><br />
waiver and <strong>the</strong>re<strong>for</strong>e <strong>the</strong>re was no liability:<br />
Ocha v. Canadian Mountain Holidays Inc.<br />
et. al. No. C922041, Vancouver Registry,<br />
September 25, 1996.<br />
Waivers <strong>of</strong> liability are important and can<br />
be effective and have legal consequences. A<br />
properly framed waiver can exclude liability<br />
<strong>for</strong> negligence. But it is also remarkable<br />
how ineffective waivers are if negligence is<br />
demonstrated to a court.<br />
Negligence: Duty & Standard <strong>of</strong> Care<br />
Where <strong>the</strong>re is a duty <strong>of</strong> care, what is <strong>the</strong><br />
standard <strong>of</strong> care required <strong>of</strong> a guide that will
e applied against a legally effective waiver?<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Canadian Mountain Holidays<br />
(CMH) case it was described as <strong>the</strong> standard<br />
<strong>of</strong> care <strong>of</strong> a fully qualifi ed, experienced,<br />
pr<strong>of</strong>essional heli-ski guide which required<br />
that, amongst o<strong>the</strong>r things, <strong>the</strong> guide<br />
always be observant <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> unexpected and<br />
to continually test conditions.<br />
In Scurfi eld v. Cariboo Helicopter Skiing<br />
Ltd. (1993), 74 B.C.L.R. (2d) 224, <strong>the</strong> BC<br />
Court <strong>of</strong> Appeal described <strong>the</strong> appropriate<br />
duty <strong>of</strong> care thus:<br />
“…<strong>the</strong> duty <strong>of</strong> care which lay on<br />
<strong>the</strong> defendants was not to expose <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
guests to risks regarded in <strong>the</strong> business as<br />
unreasonably high, whe<strong>the</strong>r from avalanche<br />
or any o<strong>the</strong>r hazard to which participants<br />
in <strong>the</strong> sport are normally exposed. To<br />
enjoy <strong>the</strong> excitement <strong>of</strong> skiing in mountain<br />
wilderness areas participants are necessarily<br />
exposed both to risks which <strong>the</strong> careful<br />
skier is able to avoid and certain risks also<br />
which such skiers may be unable to avoid,<br />
including some risk <strong>of</strong> being caught in an<br />
inescapable avalanche.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> approach to what is unreasonable<br />
risk to be avoided is a judgment that is not<br />
to be made in <strong>the</strong> perfect vision <strong>of</strong> hindsight<br />
– it must be made in <strong>the</strong> context <strong>of</strong> a guide’s<br />
limited ability to <strong>for</strong>esee future events,<br />
similar to that applied to physicians in <strong>the</strong><br />
care <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir patients: Lapointe v. Hospital Le<br />
Gardeur, [1992] 1 S.C.R. 351 (S.C.C.).<br />
<strong>The</strong> risk must not be regarded in <strong>the</strong><br />
business as unreasonably high. That is,<br />
<strong>the</strong> courts will look to standards <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
application <strong>of</strong> skill and knowledge that<br />
are required in <strong>the</strong> business or industry <strong>of</strong><br />
reasonably competent guides at <strong>the</strong> time<br />
<strong>the</strong> event occurs. In making decisions about<br />
risks, guides are required to exercise <strong>the</strong> skill<br />
and care <strong>of</strong> reasonably competent guides.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y are required to have <strong>the</strong> education,<br />
instruction and experience appropriate to <strong>the</strong><br />
task at hand.<br />
As could be expected, <strong>the</strong> program and<br />
modus operandi <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> touring company was<br />
also brought into question in <strong>the</strong> litigation.<br />
<strong>The</strong> company brought in consultants<br />
<strong>for</strong> workshops upgrading <strong>the</strong> knowledge<br />
and in<strong>for</strong>mation <strong>of</strong> guides. Every guide was<br />
required to attend a week-long retraining<br />
workshop each year. CMH was found to have<br />
applied a snow stability assessment system<br />
that was state <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> art. CMH applied a<br />
principled approach to data collection and<br />
applied in<strong>for</strong>mation from a variety <strong>of</strong> sources<br />
in making decisions. Guides collected data<br />
and snowpack pr<strong>of</strong>i les throughout <strong>the</strong> winter.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re were daily exchanges <strong>of</strong> in<strong>for</strong>mation<br />
and <strong>the</strong> sharing <strong>of</strong> observations between<br />
guides and group decision making with<br />
extensive powers <strong>of</strong> veto. <strong>The</strong> Court<br />
concluded that <strong>the</strong>re was no negligence<br />
by CMH in its training <strong>of</strong> guides and <strong>the</strong><br />
safety procedures it employed.<br />
So <strong>the</strong> action was dismissed on two<br />
grounds – <strong>the</strong> fact <strong>of</strong> an effective waiver<br />
and <strong>the</strong> absence <strong>of</strong> negligence in <strong>the</strong><br />
conduct <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> guides and operator, after<br />
a 90-day trial.<br />
Summary<br />
Mountaineering, heli-skiing and<br />
backcountry skiing all involve inherent<br />
dangers. When we join an <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong><br />
activity and sign a waiver <strong>of</strong> liability we,<br />
as individuals, assume <strong>the</strong> risk in <strong>the</strong><br />
activity. We do so because we assume<br />
that <strong>the</strong> guides, leaders and <strong>the</strong> <strong>Club</strong> that<br />
would o<strong>the</strong>rwise owe us a duty <strong>of</strong> care will<br />
still exercise care to <strong>the</strong> legally required<br />
standard or higher. And we do so with<br />
<strong>the</strong> knowledge that, by waiving our legal<br />
rights, we hopefully ensure <strong>the</strong> continued<br />
viability <strong>of</strong> our club trips.<br />
John Savage is an <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> member<br />
and a partner in <strong>the</strong> law fi rm <strong>of</strong> Crease<br />
Harman & Company in Victoria, BC.<br />
savage@creaseharman.com<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 11
above: Cathryn emerging from Mac’s Book into blackfl y terrortory; photo by Mark Lord<br />
top right: <strong>The</strong> joyous (and no longer stranded) crowd cheers at <strong>the</strong> arrival <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> club yacht; photo by Mark Lord<br />
panorama: Lake Mazinaw, located in Bon Echo Provincial Park, Ontario; photo by David Brown<br />
Imagine<br />
yourself standing<br />
with a rope and<br />
lead rack, one foot on <strong>the</strong> bow <strong>of</strong> a boat,<br />
<strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r on a tiny foothold at <strong>the</strong> base <strong>of</strong><br />
a 70-metre granite wall. Your guidebook<br />
reads, “Belay from a ledge two metres above<br />
water level,” but fails to explain how to get<br />
<strong>the</strong>re. You look down at <strong>the</strong> deep water<br />
directly below you. As you hesitate, <strong>the</strong><br />
boat drifts slowly away from <strong>the</strong> wall. Your<br />
instinct is to step back into <strong>the</strong> boat, but<br />
instead you lunge <strong>for</strong>ward and up onto <strong>the</strong><br />
rock, committing yourself to Boris’ Route,<br />
a classic 5.5 climb at <strong>the</strong> heart <strong>of</strong> Ontario’s<br />
Bon Echo Provincial Park.<br />
This scenario is repeated thousands <strong>of</strong><br />
times every summer, on Boris’ Route and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r Bon Echo climbs that rise directly<br />
from <strong>the</strong> lake. Most <strong>of</strong> us look <strong>for</strong>ward to<br />
a cooling swim after fi nishing our climbs,<br />
but at least once a year someone hesitates<br />
too long, does <strong>the</strong> splits and takes an<br />
unintended dip be<strong>for</strong>e starting. Despite<br />
<strong>the</strong>se occasional mishaps, most Bon Echo<br />
climbers return year after year to enjoy <strong>the</strong><br />
pleasures <strong>of</strong> climbing high over water on <strong>the</strong><br />
exposed granite cliffs.<br />
Bon Echo Provincial Park is located on<br />
<strong>the</strong> shores <strong>of</strong> Mazinaw Lake, several hours<br />
nor<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>of</strong> Toronto, well within reach<br />
<strong>of</strong> weekend climbers in Toronto, Ottawa,<br />
Climbing Treasure
Montreal and <strong>the</strong> surrounding areas.<br />
Mazinaw Rock is a popular feature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Park, consisting <strong>of</strong> a massive rock face rising<br />
as high as 100 metres over a distance <strong>of</strong> two<br />
kilometres. <strong>The</strong> rock is metamorphosed<br />
granite, intruded by black dykes, <strong>for</strong>ming<br />
many left-leaning ramps, slabs and cracks<br />
on <strong>the</strong> cliff face.<br />
Bon Echo has an interesting and varied<br />
history. Early residents left evidence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
activities in primitive red ochre pictographs<br />
painted on <strong>the</strong> cliff at water’s edge. In<br />
1889, Mazinaw Rock and its adjacent<br />
lands were purchased and developed as a<br />
tourist attraction and eventually became<br />
<strong>the</strong> property <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> late Merrill Denison.<br />
During negotiations to turn over <strong>the</strong> land<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Province <strong>of</strong> Ontario, Denison wrote<br />
to Alan Bruce-Robertson, fi rst chair <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> newly <strong>for</strong>med <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
(ACC) Toronto Section, giving his blessing<br />
to continued climbing at Bon Echo, in<br />
<strong>the</strong>se words:<br />
Of course I have no objection to <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> visiting Bon Echo or<br />
climbing <strong>the</strong> Rock…at your own risk…I am<br />
glad to know you are going to go on enjoying<br />
<strong>the</strong> property…It’s a satisfaction to know<br />
that <strong>the</strong> Rock is fulfi lling such a purpose.<br />
– Excerpt from letter dated December 7,<br />
1957 and signed by Merrill Denison.<br />
Today, Bon Echo is <strong>the</strong> only provincial<br />
park in Ontario to <strong>of</strong>fi cially permit<br />
climbing, subject to certain conditions<br />
agreed to between <strong>the</strong> Park and <strong>the</strong> ACC.<br />
For example, new route activity and slinging<br />
<strong>of</strong> trees is banned; some routes have been<br />
closed or re-directed to protect pictographs;<br />
rappels and descent trails are strictly limited<br />
and any fi xed protection must be placed<br />
or replaced by <strong>the</strong> ACC with prior Park<br />
approval.<br />
Much <strong>of</strong> Bon Echo is multi-pitch,<br />
although <strong>the</strong> winding nature <strong>of</strong> its climbs<br />
means that pitches tend to be short, <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
less than 20 metres each. Routes require a<br />
variety <strong>of</strong> climbing techniques: smearing<br />
and edging on <strong>the</strong> slabs and thin faces;<br />
delicate traverses on invisible ledges high<br />
over water; and strenuous overhangs on<br />
sometimes less than perfect holds. Of <strong>the</strong><br />
110 routes that remain open, only about 30<br />
continued on page 14<br />
Found at Bon Echo<br />
by Kit Moore
If You Go…<br />
Getting <strong>The</strong>re<br />
Arrange ACC boat pickup, <strong>the</strong>n drive<br />
30 minutes north <strong>of</strong> Kaladar on Hwy 41<br />
to public dock on Mazinaw Lake (see<br />
website <strong>for</strong> booking and directions).<br />
What to Bring<br />
Climbing gear, tenting & rain gear,<br />
food, drink, cooler, bug protection.<br />
Guidebook<br />
A Guide to Rock Climbs at Bon Echo<br />
(Second edition) by Steve Adcock<br />
(Third edition expected from ACC<br />
Toronto Section early in 2003)<br />
Kit’s Top Ten Climbs<br />
Afternoon Delight (5.4)<br />
Front <strong>of</strong> Pinnacle (5.4)<br />
Vertigenous (5.5)<br />
Boris’ Route (5.5)<br />
Knob Hill (5.7)<br />
Entertainer (5.9)<br />
M.F. (5.9)<br />
Sweet Dreams (5.9+)<br />
Old Faithful (5.10)<br />
Compulsion (5.10+)<br />
In<strong>for</strong>mation<br />
Fees are $10/day <strong>for</strong> ACC<br />
members, $15/day <strong>for</strong> non-members.<br />
Open weekends only, May 3 through<br />
October 19, 2003. Phone: Kit (416-<br />
469-3567) or Cliff (416-759-1566),<br />
or visit www.climbers.org and link to<br />
rockclimbing/Bon Echo.<br />
below: Sunset on <strong>the</strong> dock at Bon Echo<br />
top right: Bon Echo Hut photos by Mark Lord<br />
14 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003<br />
Climbing Treasure Found at Bon Echo<br />
continued from page 13<br />
see much traffi c and <strong>the</strong>re<strong>for</strong>e tend to be in<br />
better condition.<br />
We are indebted to <strong>the</strong> many fi rst<br />
ascentionists who established <strong>the</strong>se routes<br />
over <strong>the</strong> years since 1956, <strong>the</strong> birth year <strong>of</strong><br />
Birthday Ridge, a traditional introductory<br />
climb <strong>for</strong> new visitors and one I still enjoy<br />
at least once a year. I have a long list <strong>of</strong><br />
favourite routes, many <strong>of</strong> which were set<br />
up by <strong>the</strong> amazing Helmut Microys, Mike<br />
Rosenberger and <strong>the</strong>ir partners. A few<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r favourites were products <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fertile<br />
imaginations <strong>of</strong> John Turner and Dave<br />
Lanman (see sidebar <strong>for</strong> Kit’s top ten).<br />
Bon Echo is not <strong>for</strong> sport climbers or<br />
top-ropers, but is a delight <strong>for</strong> those who<br />
enjoy leading on <strong>the</strong>ir own gear. Indeed, <strong>for</strong><br />
most <strong>of</strong> Bon Echo’s climbing history, bolts<br />
were a rare sight on <strong>the</strong> cliff and pitons have<br />
never been fully trusted. In recent years,<br />
Ontario climbers have become aware <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> Ontario’s ancient cedars,<br />
some 1,000 years old and still growing. As<br />
part <strong>of</strong> our agreement with <strong>the</strong> Park, <strong>the</strong><br />
ACC has recently added new bolts next<br />
to many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se old growth cedars to<br />
discourage climbers from slinging <strong>the</strong>m <strong>for</strong><br />
protection.<br />
Accidents are rare at Bon Echo, but when<br />
<strong>the</strong>y happen <strong>the</strong>y can be extremely serious<br />
and complicated by diffi cult rescues. <strong>The</strong><br />
cliff is far from hospitals and cell phones are<br />
<strong>of</strong> little or no use. A 1996 incident resulted<br />
in <strong>the</strong> tragic death <strong>of</strong> a young climber,<br />
Mat<strong>the</strong>w Czerny from <strong>the</strong> Montreal<br />
section, while on <strong>the</strong> Ottawa Route, a<br />
challenging 5.8 climb. Matt was leading<br />
when he fell 50 metres to <strong>the</strong> water, pulling<br />
his partner and <strong>the</strong> belay anchors with him.<br />
Nearby boats were unable to pull Matt from<br />
<strong>the</strong> water in time, but his partner, who had<br />
suffered serious back injuries, was rescued<br />
and has since recovered. Fortunately, o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
recent climbing accidents have involved<br />
only minor injuries.<br />
For a Toronto climber like myself,<br />
who <strong>of</strong>ten must travel far to tackle climbs<br />
more than 30 metres high, Bon Echo is a<br />
precious gem to be protected and nurtured.<br />
I’m glad to donate time and energy to help<br />
keep Bon Echo open <strong>for</strong> climbing and to<br />
manage <strong>the</strong> Toronto Section’s hut, boat and<br />
campground <strong>the</strong>re. In this capacity, I work<br />
with Cliff Glover, ano<strong>the</strong>r active climber<br />
in <strong>the</strong> area and a host <strong>of</strong> eager custodians<br />
who share <strong>the</strong> work each weekend <strong>of</strong> our<br />
six-month season.<br />
Our campground has no plumbing or<br />
electricity and no hot showers <strong>for</strong> tired<br />
climbers. Instead, we <strong>of</strong>fer a hut with<br />
fi replace and propane stoves, a relaxing deck<br />
with full view <strong>of</strong> sunsets over <strong>the</strong> lake, tent<br />
sites on trails leading into <strong>the</strong> nearby woods<br />
and evening campfi res with accompanying<br />
guitar and song. Perhaps best <strong>of</strong> all, we <strong>of</strong>fer<br />
a wood-fi red sauna, lit only by moonlight<br />
and a single candle lantern, located several<br />
steps and a jump from <strong>the</strong> lake. This sauna,<br />
which com<strong>for</strong>tably fi ts eight, has been<br />
known to squeeze in a record 23 climbers<br />
in one go!<br />
If you decide to see Bon Echo, 2003 is<br />
a good year to visit. We have a new boat,<br />
a new ro<strong>of</strong> on <strong>the</strong> hut and, if all goes as<br />
planned, we’ll be sitting in a new outhouse<br />
by midsummer. Waiting until July has extra<br />
bonuses, as blackfl ies and mosquitoes calm<br />
down after June and blueberries are ready<br />
<strong>for</strong> harvest at <strong>the</strong> clifftop. One <strong>of</strong> my<br />
fondest memories is topping out at Bon<br />
Echo, fi lling my empty water bottle with<br />
ripe blueberries, <strong>the</strong>n returning to <strong>the</strong> hut<br />
<strong>for</strong> a feast <strong>of</strong> blueberry pancakes.<br />
If you can’t wait until July, we’re open<br />
this year on <strong>the</strong> weekend <strong>of</strong> May 3-4, and<br />
we’ll welcome you any weekend after that<br />
until October 18-19, when we close <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
season.
Tonquin Valley Tales and Turns<br />
Story & photo by George Stefanick<br />
In<br />
1961, Phil Dowling and <strong>the</strong><br />
Dowler bro<strong>the</strong>rs were contracted<br />
to build <strong>the</strong> new Wates-Gibson Hut in <strong>the</strong><br />
Tonquin Valley <strong>of</strong> Jasper National Park. I<br />
accompanied <strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong>ir mission to check<br />
out <strong>the</strong> requirements <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> foundation and<br />
<strong>the</strong> availability <strong>of</strong> timber. <strong>The</strong> hut was built<br />
<strong>the</strong> following year and in 1963, I attended<br />
<strong>the</strong> General Mountaineering Camp (GMC)<br />
and <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fi cial opening <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Wates-<br />
Gibson. For <strong>the</strong> next nine years I made<br />
yearly summer visits into <strong>the</strong> valley and was<br />
eager to see it in its winter setting.<br />
I was dismayed in March <strong>of</strong> 1973 to<br />
hear <strong>the</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> (ACC)<br />
had a rule about <strong>the</strong> equipment required<br />
on its trips – heavy-duty downhill skis and<br />
boots with touring bindings. Mine were<br />
wooden with bear-trap bindings suitable <strong>for</strong><br />
touring. Bruce Harding, <strong>the</strong> chair <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ski<br />
mountaineering committee, assured me he<br />
could bend <strong>the</strong> rules and I was free to come<br />
along with a couple <strong>of</strong> friends.<br />
<strong>The</strong> following two years saw John<br />
Tewnion and I each managing back-toback<br />
weeks <strong>of</strong> ski mountaineering camps<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Tonquin <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> main club organizers<br />
who were also running o<strong>the</strong>r ski camps in<br />
different areas. Shortly <strong>the</strong>reafter, <strong>the</strong> ACC<br />
Board felt that <strong>the</strong> area was losing its appeal<br />
Eremite and Fraser Valleys<br />
and decided not to use <strong>the</strong> Tonquin <strong>for</strong> a<br />
few years. John and I weren’t convinced and<br />
continued to run camps under <strong>the</strong> auspices<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Edmonton Section, but opened <strong>the</strong>m<br />
to all ACC members. <strong>The</strong> camps have been<br />
running now <strong>for</strong> 26 years an average <strong>of</strong> two<br />
weeks each year and show no sign <strong>of</strong> losing<br />
popularity.<br />
When I was chair <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ACC ski<br />
mountaineering committee, some members<br />
expressed concern about <strong>the</strong> high cost <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
regular ski camps. For <strong>the</strong>m, we arranged<br />
low-budget camps with no cook or guides<br />
and each participant was required to carry a<br />
share <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> food into <strong>the</strong> hut. <strong>The</strong>se camps<br />
were held over <strong>the</strong> Christmas holidays and<br />
ran <strong>for</strong> six years but were discontinued<br />
when participants began to organize <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
own outings.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> early years <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Tonquin ski<br />
camps, Parks <strong>Canada</strong> used to keep <strong>the</strong> road<br />
to Edith Cavell plowed. If we were planning<br />
an outing, all we had to do was phone to<br />
make sure <strong>the</strong> roadway was clear and if it<br />
wasn’t, Parks would remedy <strong>the</strong> situation.<br />
Later on, no person could be transported<br />
but food and supplies were still allowed.<br />
Now snowmobiles are <strong>for</strong>bidden but we are<br />
still permitted to use dog teams to carry in<br />
<strong>the</strong> food and equipment.<br />
In addition to <strong>the</strong> Tonquin Eremite<br />
ski camps, <strong>the</strong> Edmonton Section has<br />
held camps in several o<strong>the</strong>r locations –<br />
Assiniboine, <strong>the</strong> Icefi eld Parkway, Kokanee<br />
Park, Monashee, Freshfi eld and Fairy<br />
Meadows. Each area has its own unique<br />
character and attracts a different mix <strong>of</strong><br />
skiers depending on <strong>the</strong> technical ability<br />
required to enjoy <strong>the</strong> camp. Our camps have<br />
always attracted a certain clientele from <strong>the</strong><br />
USA but since <strong>the</strong> advent <strong>of</strong> computers and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Internet we now have participants from<br />
as far away as Europe and Japan. We had<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> editors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> New York Times<br />
on one Tonquin trip who was so impressed<br />
with <strong>the</strong> area she wrote a glowing article<br />
about <strong>the</strong> area, <strong>the</strong> ACC and <strong>the</strong> camp in<br />
particular. It was great advertising. (She was<br />
a much better writer than she was a skier.)<br />
Almost every camp will produce some<br />
kind <strong>of</strong> ‘incident’. At <strong>the</strong> Stanley Mitchell<br />
hut, a lady from Ontario was being harassed<br />
by a pine marten as she was trying to prepare<br />
dinner. In frustration she fi nally resorted to<br />
her ice axe to defend herself – her aim was<br />
bang on that day as she managed to impale<br />
<strong>the</strong> poor beast on <strong>the</strong> wall.<br />
Because many <strong>of</strong> our senior members<br />
were no longer able to hike long distances<br />
and function in a tent setting, I suggested to<br />
<strong>the</strong> Board many years ago that we promote<br />
a fall camp that would be held in a hostel,<br />
hut or chalet and be easily accessible. <strong>The</strong>se<br />
camps have been a tremendous success<br />
and much to my surprise have attracted<br />
participants in <strong>the</strong>ir 20s as well as those in<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir 80s.<br />
Now after 26 years <strong>of</strong> Edmonton Section<br />
camps <strong>the</strong> programs are still alive and well.<br />
Although I am no longer directly involved I<br />
am pleased to see that interest in <strong>the</strong>m has<br />
not waned. This year is a banner year with<br />
two weeks <strong>of</strong> ski camps and four summer<br />
and fall camps at four different locations, all<br />
<strong>of</strong> which are fully subscribed.<br />
George Stefanick has been a member <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Club</strong> since 1958.<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 15
A <strong>Passion</strong> <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong><br />
by Amy Krause<br />
<strong>The</strong><br />
painting on <strong>the</strong> cover <strong>of</strong><br />
this issue <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gazette was<br />
created by Donna Jo Massie; a Canmore,<br />
Alberta artist who is as well known <strong>for</strong> her<br />
art classes as she is <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> work she paints.<br />
On a cold March evening I showed up on<br />
her doorstep. I was greeted by a warm and<br />
enthusiastic, “Hello! You must be Amy!”<br />
As I stepped inside, I was struck by her<br />
positively tiny pair <strong>of</strong> running shoes.<br />
Donna Jo has small feet, but I would<br />
decide later, big shoes to fi ll.<br />
Massie has been infl uenced by <strong>the</strong> work<br />
<strong>of</strong> Georgia O’Keefe, Charlie Russell and<br />
Andrew Wyeth – all artists who were deeply<br />
moved by <strong>the</strong> places <strong>the</strong>y lived – and her<br />
comments reveal much <strong>of</strong> her own love<br />
affair with <strong>the</strong> mountains she calls home.<br />
“To know a place,” she says thoughtfully,<br />
“You have to know it intimately, not<br />
superfi cially.” She explains that as you<br />
discover a place, “You don’t get bored.<br />
You’re always changing as an artist, and <strong>the</strong><br />
place… it’s endless.”<br />
Massie arrived in <strong>the</strong> Canadian Rockies<br />
27 years ago. She was born in Cherokee,<br />
North Carolina and was studying<br />
environmental education in Florida<br />
when Alberta’s Kananaskis Country was<br />
established. Drawn by <strong>the</strong> prospect <strong>of</strong><br />
new parks, a new environmental program<br />
and a new start, Massie came to work <strong>for</strong><br />
Kananaskis Country.<br />
<strong>The</strong> land <strong>of</strong> everglades seemed, to me,<br />
to be a far cry from <strong>the</strong> backbone <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
continent. But growing up in <strong>the</strong> Smoky<br />
<strong>Mountains</strong> <strong>the</strong> hill country was no <strong>for</strong>eign<br />
place to Massie. Her quiet accent rolls by<br />
me in pleasant waves.<br />
16 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003<br />
“I come from a long line <strong>of</strong> mountain<br />
people… generations and generations.<br />
I think I’m very com<strong>for</strong>table in <strong>the</strong><br />
mountains. Coming here was sort <strong>of</strong> like<br />
coming home. This just feels like a good<br />
place to be.”<br />
With a degree in Education, Massie<br />
worked part time with Kananaskis<br />
Country’s interpretation program until<br />
1988, when she took <strong>the</strong> leap to pursue<br />
painting full time.<br />
“When I started painting <strong>the</strong>re was<br />
nothing on mountains. You could fi nd<br />
books about barns, seascapes, fl owers…<br />
but nothing on mountains! I read Walter<br />
Phillips’ work, and once in a while you<br />
would fi nd a reference to <strong>the</strong> colours <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
trees. <strong>The</strong>y’re not spring green, <strong>the</strong>y have a<br />
warmth to <strong>the</strong>m.”<br />
It wasn’t just colour that fascinated<br />
Massie. “<strong>The</strong>re is something about <strong>the</strong> light<br />
here,” she says. She compares it to <strong>the</strong> light<br />
in Santa Fe or Taos, New Mexico. “It has<br />
to do with high altitude and dry air. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
is so little humidity here! It produces this<br />
absolutely crystal clear, pure light.”<br />
“That’s why I thought our mountains<br />
deserved a book on how to paint <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
<strong>The</strong> colours – alpine glow, larches, high<br />
mountain lakes…”<br />
She recalls a moment on Opabin<br />
Plateau, near Lake O’Hara in British<br />
Columbia. “It was a perfect moment. I<br />
think it’s those perfect moments that keep<br />
you coming back, that make you say, ‘I have<br />
to go up here because if <strong>the</strong> light is right, it’s<br />
just going to be… heaven.’” She laughs, “I<br />
guess it’s a bit <strong>of</strong> an addiction.”<br />
Asking her if she painted to express how<br />
<strong>the</strong> landscape made her feel, she replied,<br />
“Yes, a part <strong>of</strong> why you paint is to show<br />
your relationship with <strong>the</strong> place – but I also<br />
paint to get people involved!”<br />
Teaching is as great a passion <strong>for</strong> Massie<br />
as painting is. Her book, A Rocky Mountain<br />
Sketchbook, is only a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> story. She<br />
also teaches workshops that, in a small<br />
town, have expanded to 70 people per week<br />
in four separate classes.<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fi rst things Massie teaches<br />
her students is to observe. “If <strong>the</strong>y<br />
observe more and see more, <strong>the</strong>y come<br />
to have a relationship with this mountain<br />
environment and in doing so <strong>the</strong>y will want<br />
to preserve it – ‘now that I know it and love<br />
it, I want to take care <strong>of</strong> it.’ It’s a step fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />
than <strong>the</strong> artwork.”<br />
For Massie, this appreciation can be<br />
experienced by anyone and expressed by<br />
anyone, not only those who pursue art<br />
pr<strong>of</strong>essionally – something she absorbed<br />
while growing up in <strong>the</strong> Great Smoky<br />
<strong>Mountains</strong> <strong>of</strong> Appalachia.<br />
“That painting over <strong>the</strong>re, that was<br />
done by my uncle. My great aunt made<br />
<strong>the</strong>se baskets and my grandmo<strong>the</strong>r was a<br />
weaver. Art was not something somebody<br />
else did; it was a part <strong>of</strong> what you did with<br />
your life. Creating was something you just<br />
grew up doing.”<br />
It is something Massie is still doing,<br />
every day. <strong>The</strong>re is an unfi nished painting in<br />
her studio <strong>of</strong> a stream, so vibrant; it makes<br />
you feel you’ve been smacked between <strong>the</strong><br />
eyes by a vision <strong>of</strong> water. It glows out <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> darkness, surrounded by plaster white<br />
watercolour board.<br />
I asked her if she thought <strong>the</strong>re was<br />
much difference between what she did in<br />
<strong>the</strong> mountains and what mountaineers do.<br />
“No!” She looks at me wide eyed. “I don’t<br />
think <strong>the</strong>re is a difference. I have mountain<br />
climbers who are friends. It’s because we<br />
love this place. <strong>The</strong>re’s something about<br />
<strong>the</strong> mountains that is compelling. We just<br />
pursue our passion in different ways. I<br />
suspect that rapture <strong>the</strong>y get on <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong><br />
a mountain is similar to <strong>the</strong> feeling you get<br />
when you sign your name on that painting<br />
and go…‘Wow.’”<br />
Massie has small feet, but I’m sure her<br />
students would agree, big shoes to fi ll.<br />
To view Massie’s work, visit her solo<br />
shows at <strong>Canada</strong> House in Banff this July,<br />
or at <strong>the</strong> Stephen Lowe Art Gallery in<br />
Calgary in November. Her work will also be<br />
featured in <strong>the</strong> Wonder <strong>of</strong> Water group show<br />
appearing at <strong>Canada</strong> House May 10 to June<br />
20, 2003. Or you can visit her website at:<br />
www.telusplanet.net/public/massiewc/
Painting <strong>the</strong> Heart <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Rockies<br />
Story & photo by Ron Chamney<br />
At<br />
last <strong>the</strong>re is a watercolour painting<br />
book that doesn’t start with <strong>the</strong><br />
usual boring shapes and ano<strong>the</strong>r bowl <strong>of</strong><br />
fruit! If you are a nature lover and have<br />
fantasized about becoming a painter, here is<br />
a book that will capture your heart and your<br />
enthusiasm.<br />
Donna Jo Massie has obviously spent<br />
a large amount <strong>of</strong> time in <strong>the</strong> mountains,<br />
cultivated <strong>the</strong> practised eye <strong>of</strong> a true<br />
artist and has <strong>the</strong> rare ability to interpret<br />
even <strong>the</strong> most complex techniques into<br />
a step-by-step procedure <strong>for</strong> capturing a<br />
moment in nature. She provides not only<br />
equipment and technique suggestions, but<br />
gives you <strong>the</strong> tools to really start seeing<br />
what makes nature a picture. She helps<br />
you to discover how leaves hang, that<br />
mountains are made <strong>of</strong> shadows and that<br />
trees are shades <strong>of</strong> blue and yellow. She not<br />
Donna Jo Massie teaching watercolour painting in<br />
Kananaskis, Alberta<br />
only brings <strong>the</strong> art <strong>of</strong> painting mountains,<br />
but also brings <strong>the</strong> reader into a new way <strong>of</strong><br />
seeing <strong>the</strong> world around <strong>the</strong>m. An immense<br />
amount <strong>of</strong> experience and analysis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Rocky <strong>Mountains</strong> has gone into this book<br />
in a way only a very talented artist and<br />
teacher could do.<br />
Attention was paid to <strong>the</strong> details <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
book as well. As befi tting some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best<br />
nature guides, this book is small enough<br />
to fi t in an anorak pocket, <strong>the</strong> pages are<br />
made <strong>of</strong> water resistant paper and it has a<br />
coil binding, so that when you open it, you<br />
can fl atten <strong>the</strong> pages without everything<br />
fl ipping around. If only my bird books were<br />
as user friendly!<br />
I enjoyed this book immensely, <strong>for</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> sound step-by-step instruction in<br />
watercolour painting, as well as <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
witty comments, insightful observations<br />
and <strong>the</strong> mind provoking quotes peppered<br />
throughout.<br />
This beautifully illustrated book is<br />
certainly <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> its kind that I have ever<br />
seen. A Rocky Mountain Sketchbook is on<br />
<strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> my shopping list <strong>for</strong> my artistic<br />
friends, both beginners and those more<br />
experienced artists who want to learn how<br />
to paint <strong>the</strong> heart <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Rocky <strong>Mountains</strong>.<br />
Ron Chamney is a pr<strong>of</strong>essional naturalist,<br />
interpreter and recreational watercolour<br />
painter living in <strong>the</strong> Bow Valley.<br />
available through <strong>the</strong> National Offi ce or<br />
<strong>the</strong> ACC on-line store at:<br />
www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca/store<br />
2003 Mountain Guides’ Ball<br />
On Saturday, November 1, 2003, please join us <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> 14th Annual Mountain Guides’<br />
Ball at <strong>the</strong> Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Once again, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Club</strong> anticipates that this will<br />
be <strong>the</strong> social highlight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year with time to socialize with friends and enjoy a silent<br />
auction as well as a fabulous fi ve course dinner and a dance to follow. Come with your<br />
family and friends, everyone is welcome. This year’s silent auction is anticipated to include<br />
excellent donations from local artisans, backcountry adventure operators, local outdoor<br />
retailers and booksellers. Tickets will become available in <strong>the</strong> latter part <strong>of</strong> August. For<br />
updates and in<strong>for</strong>mation check our national website at www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca or<br />
email mgb@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca. We look <strong>for</strong>ward to seeing you <strong>the</strong>re!<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 17
Las Mujeres de Las Montanas 2002<br />
Celebrating women’s passion <strong>for</strong> mountains in Ecuador<br />
by Isabelle Daigneault<br />
As<br />
close friends, Olivia and I sought<br />
a new challenge to honor <strong>the</strong><br />
2002 International Year <strong>of</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong>.<br />
We created <strong>the</strong> Ecuador 2002 project to<br />
introduce local and indigenous Ecuadorian<br />
mountain women to high-altitude trekking<br />
and mountaineering in ef<strong>for</strong>t to inspire<br />
<strong>the</strong>m to fur<strong>the</strong>r develop character and<br />
community leadership skills. Our goal<br />
was not to impose, not to patronize, but<br />
simply to inspire o<strong>the</strong>r women, to share<br />
our passion <strong>for</strong> mountains and to produce a<br />
short documentary on this subject.<br />
Why Ecuador?<br />
Ecuador is a country rich in diverse<br />
peoples and landscapes. Never have I<br />
felt mountains to be so alive, landing<br />
at <strong>the</strong> airport only days after volcano El<br />
Reventador exploded, covering Quito with<br />
fi ve centimetres <strong>of</strong> ash. Frequent eruptions<br />
<strong>of</strong> Ecuador’s numerous volcanoes remind us<br />
its mountains are very much alive. Home to<br />
<strong>the</strong> world’s highest active volcano, 5911 m<br />
Cotopaxi, and <strong>the</strong> world’s highest mountain<br />
from <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> earth, 6097 m<br />
Chimborazo, Ecuador provides beautiful<br />
scenery and fantastic mountaineering<br />
opportunities.<br />
Due to economic and social limitations,<br />
most Ecuadorian women do not have <strong>the</strong><br />
opportunity to enjoy <strong>the</strong> outdoors, nor<br />
do <strong>the</strong>y strive toward mountaineering, a<br />
traditionally male-dominated activity. On<br />
a desolate country trail you’ll <strong>of</strong>ten see<br />
a myriad <strong>of</strong> people in red, pink or blue<br />
carrying piles <strong>of</strong> wood or working <strong>the</strong> land<br />
– <strong>the</strong>y are all women. Women care <strong>for</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir families and work all week long with<br />
land and animals, while <strong>the</strong> men work in<br />
cities. Being submissive to <strong>the</strong> expectations<br />
Interviewing Olga & Aurora at <strong>the</strong> Collanes Plains Hut, El Altar Volcano<br />
18 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003<br />
<strong>of</strong> a culture, however, does not mean that<br />
one cannot or does not have leadership<br />
and cannot empower oneself to start new<br />
projects, teach o<strong>the</strong>rs or attempt to improve<br />
life.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Women<br />
As <strong>the</strong> co-owner <strong>of</strong> Quito-based Safari<br />
Tours, Pattie is one <strong>of</strong> only a handful <strong>of</strong><br />
Ecuadorian female mountaineers. She<br />
recently started mountaineering to better<br />
understand what draws her clients to<br />
Ecuador’s mountains. Pattie told us she<br />
was received with a lot <strong>of</strong> awe and surprise<br />
when she returned to <strong>the</strong> hut after climbing<br />
Approaching <strong>the</strong> refuge at Cotopaxi<br />
her fi rst peak, Iliniza South. We wanted to<br />
climb Cotopaxi with Pattie because she had<br />
attempted it twice without reaching <strong>the</strong><br />
summit and thought it could be a milestone<br />
in her life and Ecuadorian mountaineering.<br />
Olga, 21 and Aurora, 18 are<br />
part <strong>of</strong> an organization called<br />
‘La Minga’, <strong>the</strong> association<br />
<strong>of</strong> indigenous women <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
province <strong>of</strong> Chimborazo, home to<br />
Chimborazo volcano. <strong>The</strong>y work<br />
<strong>the</strong> land daily, caring <strong>for</strong> animals<br />
and as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir duty to La<br />
Minga, visit several elementary<br />
schools in <strong>the</strong>ir region <strong>of</strong> Colta<br />
to help feed and educate children.<br />
Following Ecuadorian tradition,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are bound to live and work<br />
with <strong>the</strong>ir parents until <strong>the</strong>y are<br />
Olivia S<strong>of</strong>er & Isabelle Daigneault - Cotopaxi, Ecuador<br />
married. We built relationships with <strong>the</strong>m<br />
via <strong>the</strong> Internet over several months. For<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir fi rst experience, we planned to take<br />
<strong>the</strong> two young women on a three day<br />
expedition to Volcano El Altar, where <strong>the</strong>y<br />
would gain serious altitude, approach a<br />
glacier and see a mountain peak up close<br />
– and evaluate whe<strong>the</strong>r or not <strong>the</strong>y enjoyed<br />
mountain climbing.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Climbs<br />
Acclimatization <strong>for</strong> Cotopaxi and<br />
5404 m El Altar was key. Olivia, our<br />
cinematographer Doug and I acclimatized<br />
on 4200 m Pasochoa and 4784 m GuaGua<br />
Pichincha, which erupted in 1999 and<br />
5116 m Iliniza Norte with Pattie. <strong>The</strong><br />
Illiniza Norte climb was not technically<br />
diffi cult. Formerly covered in snow,<br />
footing on <strong>the</strong> peak has been made easier<br />
with exposed rock caused by recent global<br />
warming. Bordered by jungle, <strong>the</strong> climb was<br />
wonderful and Pattie was happy to summit<br />
her second ever peak.<br />
After leaving <strong>the</strong> 4800 m Cotopaxi<br />
refuge at midnight on three hours sleep,<br />
our team climbed with headlamps.<br />
Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, Pattie felt weak a few hours<br />
later, just short <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> glacier. She turned<br />
back and we continued.<br />
<strong>The</strong> day rose as we approached <strong>the</strong><br />
summit where we crossed lots <strong>of</strong> crevasses.<br />
Approaching 5400 m, we felt dizzy. <strong>The</strong><br />
effects <strong>of</strong> altitude are very strange – climbing<br />
and taking steps <strong>for</strong>ward – it does not feel<br />
like it’s really you. Your mind becomes your<br />
most powerful ally.<br />
Accompanied by high winds and high<br />
altitude hail, I felt tired. My body wanted<br />
to give up. My mind wanted to climb<br />
and ‘bag’ this peak and see <strong>the</strong> crater. At<br />
Yanasacha Pass, approximately 200 m below<br />
<strong>the</strong> summit, inside a hidden ice haven we<br />
ate, rested and debated as to whe<strong>the</strong>r or<br />
not to make <strong>the</strong> summit. We tried leaving<br />
Yanasacha Pass but in <strong>the</strong> wind again
hail pinched my face so hard I could not<br />
brea<strong>the</strong> what little oxygen <strong>the</strong>re was. Tired,<br />
with more than our share <strong>of</strong> high altitude<br />
mountaineering, turning back would have<br />
been easy.<br />
Olivia and I looked at each o<strong>the</strong>r. “Let’s<br />
go to <strong>the</strong> summit,” I said. “Let’s give it one<br />
last push.” We encouraged each o<strong>the</strong>r to <strong>the</strong><br />
summit; every step I took <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> last 200 m<br />
was a struggle. At <strong>the</strong> summit, bad wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />
hid <strong>the</strong> crater. <strong>The</strong> descent was diffi cult;<br />
never had I felt more spent, my metabolism<br />
in overdrive from <strong>the</strong> altitude. As much as<br />
mountains can give to us, <strong>the</strong>y <strong>of</strong>ten take a<br />
lot as well.<br />
El Altar on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, was <strong>the</strong> crux<br />
<strong>of</strong> our expedition.<br />
We met Olga and Aurora in Riobamba<br />
a few days after Cotopaxi and spent time<br />
getting acquainted. We spent one day<br />
in a school and watched <strong>the</strong> women at<br />
work, feeding and educating poor country<br />
children. As we looked into <strong>the</strong> Quechua<br />
children’s teary eyes my only thought<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> day was that life was not<br />
fair…<br />
We set up Olga and Aurora with <strong>the</strong><br />
gear <strong>the</strong>y needed locally, <strong>the</strong>n made our way<br />
to El Altar and completed <strong>the</strong> seven-hour<br />
Join Us <strong>for</strong> a Mountain Adventure<br />
You Won’t Forget!<br />
Find Out More . . .<br />
For more in<strong>for</strong>mation on each camp,<br />
including <strong>the</strong>ir levels <strong>of</strong> diffi culty,<br />
please visit our website at<br />
www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
and follow <strong>the</strong> links to Mountain Adventures.<br />
Alternatively, call Lawrence White<br />
at <strong>the</strong> ACC’s National Offi ce<br />
(403) 678-3200, ext. 112<br />
or email him at:<br />
adventures@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
slog up a muddy trail to <strong>the</strong> Collanes Plains<br />
where little cabanas made <strong>of</strong> straw await<br />
tired trekkers. Olga and Aurora were <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
ahead <strong>of</strong> us, <strong>the</strong>ir lung capacity being fi t <strong>for</strong><br />
Ecuador’s mountains. We made dinner and<br />
a fi re and prepared <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> trek to <strong>the</strong> crater<br />
<strong>of</strong> El Altar and <strong>the</strong> foot <strong>of</strong> Obispo peak.<br />
El Altar, and more specifi cally Obispo<br />
peak, is Ecuador’s most diffi cult climb.<br />
Trekking right to <strong>the</strong> glacier and just<br />
below <strong>the</strong> peak was an amazing sight <strong>for</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> women. <strong>The</strong> closer we got <strong>the</strong> faster<br />
<strong>the</strong>y went in awe and excitement. <strong>The</strong>y<br />
had never touched snow be<strong>for</strong>e and made<br />
snowmen and snowballs when <strong>the</strong>y reached<br />
<strong>the</strong> fi rst patch. <strong>The</strong>y kept looking back, not<br />
believing how far and how high <strong>the</strong>y had<br />
gone. <strong>The</strong>y felt inspired and free. During<br />
our documentary interview <strong>the</strong> next day,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y spoke <strong>of</strong> doing more – seeing pristine<br />
places, waterfalls and bigger peaks.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Future<br />
Through our trip, we met Dana<br />
Platin, an American woman who’s lived in<br />
Ecuador <strong>for</strong> fi ve years. She organized an<br />
expedition to Cotopaxi last year with two<br />
indigenous women from <strong>the</strong> province <strong>of</strong><br />
Cotacachi, north <strong>of</strong> Quito, with <strong>the</strong> same<br />
photo by Patricia Daum<br />
<strong>The</strong>re are still a few spaces<br />
left on some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ACC’s summer<br />
mountaineering camps. <strong>The</strong>re are camps<br />
<strong>for</strong> all levels <strong>of</strong> experience – whe<strong>the</strong>r you are<br />
strapping on your crampons <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> fi rst time, or have been<br />
adventuring in <strong>the</strong> mountains <strong>for</strong> many years.<br />
Jasper Classic Peaks<br />
Date: July 5 - 12 Cost: $1595 + GST<br />
Marmot Women’s Mountaineering Camp<br />
Date: July 13 - 18 Cost: $850 + GST<br />
Under 25 Climbing Camp<br />
Date: July 19 - 26 Cost: $1000 + GST<br />
Peak Weekend – Bugaboos<br />
Date: August 1 - 4 Cost: $795 + GST<br />
Lyells Mountaineering Camp<br />
Date: August 8 - 16 Cost: $1750 + GST<br />
Fryatt Climbing Camp<br />
Date: August 16 - 23 Cost: $1495 + GST<br />
goals as ours. We did not know about it<br />
<strong>the</strong>n but found it most interesting to meet<br />
<strong>the</strong> women who climbed with her and to<br />
learn how mountaineering had changed<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir lives. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> women has started<br />
a paper recycling non-pr<strong>of</strong>i t organization to<br />
donate money to children in need <strong>of</strong> food<br />
and education. We introduced Olga and<br />
Aurora to Dana and <strong>the</strong>y plan on climbing<br />
Chimborazo with <strong>the</strong> indigenous women <strong>of</strong><br />
Cotacachi in winter/spring <strong>of</strong> 2003. Pattie<br />
will keep on climbing.<br />
For more please visit:<br />
www.lasmujeresdelasmontanas2002.com<br />
First climb, fi rst snow; Olga & Aurora on El Altar<br />
Tatshenshini Rafting & Scrambling Adventure<br />
Date: Aug. 17 - Sept. 3 Cost: $4295 + GST<br />
Silent Pass to Rogers Pass Traverse<br />
Date: September 5 - 13 Cost: $1595 + GST<br />
photo by Bill Corbett<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 19
Water Wellness in <strong>the</strong><br />
Backcountry<br />
by Ola Dunin-Bell<br />
Samuel<br />
T. Coleridge could<br />
have just as easily<br />
been writing about today’s wilderness<br />
traveler as <strong>the</strong> ancient mariner when he<br />
penned his famous poem in 1797. Water<br />
is vital to all <strong>of</strong> us, but safe potable water is<br />
not always readily accessible. We all know<br />
that water weighs a lot – one kilogram per<br />
litre – and <strong>the</strong> last thing we want to do<br />
is add unnecessary weight to our packs.<br />
Un<strong>for</strong>tunately, dehydration is both subtle<br />
in its onset and serious in its consequences.<br />
If a person waits until <strong>the</strong>y are thirsty to<br />
drink, <strong>the</strong>y have waited too long. With<br />
dehydration come fatigue, muscle cramps<br />
and nausea. Per<strong>for</strong>mance goes down, but<br />
this is not <strong>the</strong> worst <strong>of</strong> it. Dehydration<br />
increases risk <strong>for</strong> heat stroke and can<br />
eventually lead to collapse and even death.<br />
But how much water is enough and how<br />
can we make sure we can get it?<br />
An active person will require<br />
approximately two and a half to three litres<br />
<strong>of</strong> water daily. Add some sunshine, hot<br />
wea<strong>the</strong>r, a refl ective surface such as a rock<br />
face or glacier and four to fi ve litres becomes<br />
<strong>the</strong> minimum daily requirement. Altitude<br />
adds a fur<strong>the</strong>r dimension with <strong>the</strong> air being<br />
much drier <strong>the</strong> higher one ascends. Because<br />
<strong>of</strong> this, signifi cant body water is lost with<br />
every breath taken. If counting litres is not<br />
your thing, you should be drinking enough<br />
that you need to pee several times during<br />
<strong>the</strong> day and your urine is copious and<br />
almost colourless. <strong>The</strong> one caution here is<br />
<strong>for</strong> those individuals involved in endurance<br />
activities (e.g. Ironman triathlon, canyon<br />
walking) where cases <strong>of</strong> excessive fl uid<br />
intake can produce dilution <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> body’s<br />
normal chemistry (hyponatremia), leading<br />
to complications as serious as those seen<br />
in dehydration. For those involved in<br />
prolonged physically demanding activities,<br />
<strong>the</strong> range <strong>of</strong> 500 to 750 ml <strong>of</strong> fl uid intake<br />
per hour has been suggested as more<br />
appropriate and, if possible, in <strong>the</strong> <strong>for</strong>m<br />
<strong>of</strong> sports drinks that include electrolytes<br />
(salts).<br />
As stated earlier, getting your mouth<br />
around this much clean water is not always<br />
easy. Carrying several days’ supply would be<br />
an almost prohibitive weight and not your<br />
fi rst choice unless <strong>the</strong>re was no source along<br />
<strong>the</strong> way. If you are planning a multi-day<br />
20 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003<br />
“Water, water, every where,<br />
Nor any drop to drink.”<br />
excursion up a big wall, hauling<br />
water with you is indeed <strong>the</strong> only<br />
alternative and one you must not<br />
skimp on. Hiking up a mountain<br />
will <strong>of</strong>ten bring you into close<br />
proximity to streams, but although<br />
<strong>the</strong> water may look cool, clear and tempting,<br />
be aware that even in <strong>the</strong> Rocky <strong>Mountains</strong><br />
many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> streams are contaminated with<br />
organisms that can cause serious illness.<br />
Anyone who has experienced <strong>the</strong><br />
cramping and diarrhea <strong>of</strong> ‘beaver fever’<br />
knows that very quickly, a camping trip<br />
can be ruined and that <strong>of</strong>ten recovery<br />
can be very slow and prolonged, with<br />
fl are ups <strong>of</strong> symptoms even weeks<br />
later. Although cholera is a risk only in<br />
developing countries, E. Coli, salmonella<br />
and shigella are all bacteria that can also<br />
produce life-threatening dysentery (fever<br />
and bloody diarrhea) and can be found in<br />
North American water sources. Infectious<br />
hepatitis, a disease caused by <strong>the</strong> hepatitis A<br />
virus, affects <strong>the</strong> liver producing jaundice as<br />
well as causing nausea, vomiting, fever and<br />
abdominal pain. This tiny virus particle is<br />
frequently spread by water.<br />
At lower elevations a number <strong>of</strong> pathogens<br />
(disease causing organisms), including viruses<br />
(e.g. hepatitis A), bacteria (e.g. salmonella)<br />
and parasites (e.g. cryptosporidium), can<br />
readily be found, but even in upper regions<br />
giardia cysts, <strong>the</strong> source <strong>of</strong> beaver fever, can<br />
be shed into <strong>the</strong> water supply by animals<br />
carrying this parasite. <strong>The</strong> presence <strong>of</strong><br />
animals and humans in an area will mean<br />
faecal contamination and high likelihood<br />
<strong>of</strong> infectious organisms seeding <strong>the</strong> water<br />
supply. Some people are com<strong>for</strong>table with<br />
taking <strong>the</strong> risk <strong>of</strong> drinking unpurifi ed water,<br />
based on <strong>the</strong>ir knowledge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local water<br />
supply. To be absolutely certain, however,<br />
some <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> water treatment is necessary<br />
to eliminate <strong>the</strong> possibility <strong>of</strong> waterborne<br />
illness.<br />
Water Treatment<br />
General principles should be kept in<br />
mind when obtaining water <strong>for</strong> drinking,<br />
even if <strong>the</strong> plan is to proceed with a<br />
disinfection treatment. <strong>The</strong> lower <strong>the</strong> initial<br />
load <strong>of</strong> organisms and o<strong>the</strong>r contaminants,<br />
<strong>the</strong> more effective <strong>the</strong> treatment will be.<br />
Obtain clear, free running water upstream<br />
photo by Josée Larochelle<br />
from any known contamination source,<br />
if taking from a stream, or well out from<br />
shore, with as little silt as possible, if<br />
<strong>the</strong> source is lakewater. Snow should be<br />
collected uphill from <strong>the</strong> hut or campsite<br />
and well away and above any latrine facility.<br />
Avoid any snow nearby or underlying ‘pink<br />
snow’, a <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> algae seen on glaciers.<br />
Similarly, care should be taken in disposal<br />
<strong>of</strong> waste to avoid contributing fur<strong>the</strong>r to<br />
contamination <strong>of</strong> water supplies. Hand<br />
washing and good personal hygiene are<br />
also key factors in avoiding waterborne<br />
transmission <strong>of</strong> disease.<br />
Disinfection Methods<br />
Water can be made safe <strong>for</strong> drinking<br />
by one <strong>of</strong> three methods – heat, chemical<br />
treatment or mechanical fi ltration.<br />
Heat<br />
Heat is <strong>the</strong> oldest and <strong>the</strong> most<br />
consistently effective method <strong>of</strong> disinfecting<br />
water so that it is safe to drink. Although<br />
old recommendations were to boil water<br />
<strong>for</strong> ten minutes, this has been proven to be<br />
unnecessary and simply bringing it to a boil<br />
allows enough time at high temperature <strong>for</strong><br />
pathogens to be destroyed. Ei<strong>the</strong>r covering<br />
<strong>the</strong> pot after <strong>the</strong> boil and allowing slow<br />
cooling or boiling <strong>for</strong> a full minute provides<br />
a wide safety margin.<br />
Although altitude does lower <strong>the</strong> boiling<br />
temperature, <strong>the</strong> achievable heat is still<br />
enough, but again a longer boiling time,<br />
up to three minutes at high altitude, makes<br />
safety a certainty. <strong>The</strong>re are drawbacks,<br />
however, to heat treatment, <strong>the</strong> main one<br />
being <strong>the</strong> need to carry fuel. Heating<br />
water also does not improve o<strong>the</strong>r physical<br />
characteristics, including appearance and<br />
taste that may make water less palatable.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> next issue chemical treatment<br />
and mechanical methods <strong>for</strong> water<br />
purifi cation will be described.<br />
Ola Dunin-Bell is a Physician and<br />
member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Wilderness Medical Society
Conrad Kain Hut photo by Josee Bourgoin<br />
National Offi ce News<br />
by Bruce Keith, Executive Director<br />
After<br />
a wea<strong>the</strong>r-weird winter<br />
in most parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>,<br />
I’m sure we have all welcomed <strong>the</strong> warmer<br />
temperatures with open arms. Spring always<br />
brings those uplifting feelings <strong>of</strong> a new<br />
beginning, and alpine areas beckoning us<br />
with promises <strong>of</strong> new places to explore and<br />
sights to see.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> National Offi ce here in Canmore,<br />
new beginnings are defi nitely in <strong>the</strong> air.<br />
Our Offi ce Manager and Membership<br />
Coordinator, Josée Larochelle, is planning<br />
to go on maternity leave in mid-July.<br />
Congratulations to her and her husband,<br />
Kelly, and all our best wishes! Filling in <strong>for</strong><br />
Josée while she is away will be Paula Zettel,<br />
who is a keen mountaineer and member <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Rocky Mountain Section. She looks<br />
<strong>for</strong>ward to meeting or talking with as many<br />
<strong>of</strong> you as possible. Welcome, Paula!<br />
Rob Kozarchuk, one <strong>of</strong> our valuable<br />
front desk staff members in <strong>the</strong> Canmore<br />
<strong>Club</strong>house, has left to pursue o<strong>the</strong>r interests<br />
(a.k.a. tree planting), but we hope he<br />
will return again once <strong>the</strong> snow starts to<br />
fall next winter. New to <strong>the</strong> front desk is<br />
Thu Nguyen, who is looking <strong>for</strong>ward to<br />
speaking with and meeting members and<br />
<strong>Club</strong>house guests. Also, welcome back to<br />
Dorothy Ward, who will be joining us<br />
again <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> summer.<br />
We’re looking <strong>for</strong>ward to having some<br />
new staff come on board over <strong>the</strong> next<br />
few months, and we’ll be working hard as<br />
a team to ensure we continue to serve you<br />
in <strong>the</strong> manner to which you have grown<br />
accustomed<br />
Leadership Workshop<br />
big thank-you to <strong>the</strong> ACC National Endowment Fund <strong>for</strong> providing funding to<br />
A run <strong>the</strong> Vancouver Section’s Leadership Workshop this February. <strong>The</strong> workshop was<br />
attended to capacity by 20 participants, a combination <strong>of</strong> experienced and new ACC leaders.<br />
<strong>The</strong> workshop was led by Rick Davies (<strong>of</strong> Rick Davies & Associates, Leadership Training<br />
and Development Specialists), and Bridget Milsom (North Shore Search and Rescue). <strong>The</strong><br />
enthusiastic participation and response <strong>of</strong> participants has generated a follow-up Leadership<br />
Development weekend to be held in <strong>the</strong> summer <strong>of</strong> 2003. Thanks again to <strong>the</strong> ACC<br />
Endowment Fund; this was a real boost <strong>for</strong> our Section!<br />
Volunteer<br />
Opportunities<br />
<strong>The</strong>re<br />
are two new areas on<br />
<strong>the</strong> Bulletin Board <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> national website designed to help<br />
increase <strong>the</strong> effectiveness <strong>of</strong> volunteering<br />
<strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>. <strong>The</strong>y are<br />
to assist all areas <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> club – national,<br />
committees and sections – to fi nd<br />
volunteers as well as to help people keen<br />
on volunteering to publish <strong>the</strong>ir intentions.<br />
<strong>The</strong> fi rst area is entitled ‘Volunteers Wanted’<br />
– this is where sections, committees and<br />
<strong>the</strong> national club can advertise specifi c<br />
jobs, positions or requirements. It is<br />
important when you post something in<br />
this area that you include a description<br />
<strong>of</strong> what is required, contact in<strong>for</strong>mation,<br />
time requirements, special equipment<br />
required, special skills required and <strong>the</strong><br />
physical location that <strong>the</strong> task will occur.<br />
<strong>The</strong> second area is entitled ‘Eager to<br />
Volunteer’ – this is <strong>the</strong> area where people<br />
can publish <strong>the</strong>ir desire to volunteer. It<br />
is important <strong>for</strong> anyone placing a post in<br />
this area to include <strong>the</strong>ir name, contact<br />
in<strong>for</strong>mation, special skills and equipment<br />
<strong>the</strong>y have, type <strong>of</strong> position or task <strong>the</strong>y are<br />
seeking, time <strong>the</strong>y are available and physical<br />
locations <strong>the</strong>y are available.<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 21
Trespassing at ACC Backcountry Huts<br />
by Carl Hannigan<br />
at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>’s backcountry facilities is a problem that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Club</strong> has been dealing with since<br />
Trespassing we began operating huts in <strong>the</strong> 1920s. It is diffi cult to fully assess <strong>the</strong> extent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> problem, but when it<br />
does happen, it interferes with <strong>the</strong> experience <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> legitimate hut users by causing overcrowding and bad feelings between user groups when<br />
trespassers are identifi ed. It also causes hut fees to increase, since an insuffi cient number <strong>of</strong> hut users are paying <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> expenses associated<br />
with operating <strong>the</strong>se remote facilities. Basically, hut trespassing is unfair to all those who follow <strong>the</strong> rules.<br />
As a result, in addition to our regular practice <strong>of</strong> encouraging members to act as voluntary custodians, we are taking <strong>the</strong> following new<br />
steps to eliminate hut trespassing (also known as ‘<strong>the</strong>ft’):<br />
● We are encouraging members to ‘take ownership’ <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> huts and assist in policing and<br />
giving support to custodians.<br />
● All hut users will be given a receipt or reservation number at <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> booking. <strong>The</strong>y<br />
will be told that <strong>the</strong>y must bring this in<strong>for</strong>mation with <strong>the</strong>m to <strong>the</strong> hut. If a hut visitor<br />
does not have a reservation number and cannot pay on-site, <strong>the</strong> custodian will turn <strong>the</strong><br />
person away from <strong>the</strong> hut (assuming it is safe to do so).<br />
● If <strong>the</strong> hut is at capacity, custodians will request that trespassers leave <strong>the</strong> hut provided that<br />
<strong>the</strong>re is no potential danger to <strong>the</strong>m in doing so.<br />
Custodians will receive advice as to how to per<strong>for</strong>m <strong>the</strong>se duties in a non-confrontational<br />
manner.<br />
Carl Hannigan is <strong>the</strong> Vice President, Facilities <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> ACC.<br />
National Volunteer Awards<br />
<strong>The</strong><br />
following <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> (ACC) Award recipients have volunteered<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir time in serving fellow <strong>Club</strong> members at ei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> national or section<br />
levels <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Club</strong>. Biographies <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> following award recipients can be viewed on <strong>the</strong> ACC<br />
website at www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
Distinguished Service Award<br />
● Cyril Shokoples – Edmonton Section<br />
● Peter Amann – Jasper/Hinton Section<br />
● Liz Scremin – Vancouver Section<br />
● Manrico Scremin – Vancouver Section<br />
● Dave Cousins – Calgary Section<br />
● Bruce Keith – National<br />
22 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003<br />
Silver Rope <strong>for</strong> Leadership<br />
● Dave Dornian – National<br />
● Doug Nelson – Calgary & Rocky<br />
Mountain Sections<br />
ACC Leader Award<br />
● Peter Woodsworth – Vancouver Section<br />
<strong>The</strong> Awards Committee is comprised <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> following six <strong>Club</strong> members:<br />
Tom Haslam-Jones, Montreal Section; Dave McCormick, Saskatchewan Section;<br />
Rod Plasman, Rocky Mountain Section; Mike Thompson, Vancouver Section;<br />
Gerta Smy<strong>the</strong>, Vancouver Section; Paul Geddes (Committee Chair), Toronto Section<br />
Ski Mountaineering Competition<br />
In Sieg in Den Bergen (Victory in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong>),<br />
Austria’s most experienced international ski mountaineering<br />
competitor, Rolf Majcen, describes thrilling adventures at<br />
big ski-mountaineering competitions in <strong>the</strong> Alps including<br />
Patrouilles des Glaciers, Pierra Menta, Tr<strong>of</strong>eo Mezzalama,<br />
Cima d’Asta, Dammkar-Race, World Championships in<br />
Serre Chevalier, Patrouille de la Maya, Defi de Faverges,<br />
Mountain Attack, Sella Ronda, Pizolada and many<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs in Greece, in <strong>the</strong> High Tatra, in <strong>the</strong> Pyrenees,<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Atlas <strong>Mountains</strong> and in <strong>the</strong> Rocky <strong>Mountains</strong>.<br />
He writes about ups and downs, touching episodes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
history <strong>of</strong> this sport, <strong>the</strong> excitement <strong>of</strong> meeting male and<br />
female European stars from many different countries and<br />
about <strong>the</strong>ir extraordinary alpine achievements.<br />
It can be ordered by e-mail: rolf.majcen@sparinvest.com<br />
NOTICES<br />
We’re On Top, Are You?!!!<br />
<strong>The</strong> Summit Register Program is gearing<br />
up again. This unique program assists<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> in keeping<br />
summit records by placing booklets on<br />
specifi c mountain summits. If you like<br />
to bag peaks and would like to help<br />
please contact our volunteer organizer<br />
Jim Bruce at (403) 932-8833 or<br />
miljay@nucleus.com<br />
<strong>The</strong> North Face Leadership Course<br />
<strong>The</strong> application deadline <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
next Winter North Face Leadership<br />
course is October 1, 2003. For more<br />
detailed in<strong>for</strong>mation please contact<br />
adventures@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
or (403) 678-3200 ext. 112.<br />
Banff Mountain Festivals Need Volunteers<br />
Once again we’re looking <strong>for</strong> eager<br />
volunteers to help with this year’s<br />
Banff Mountain Book & Film Festivals<br />
which will take place November 5<br />
to 9, 2003. For more in<strong>for</strong>mation<br />
please contact our <strong>of</strong>fi ce manager,<br />
jlarochelle@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
or (403) 678-3200 ext. 108<br />
ACC Custom Portering Services<br />
now available <strong>for</strong> all huts summer<br />
and winter. If you are planning a<br />
backcountry hut trip and would like to<br />
have your food and equipment carried<br />
in, contact <strong>the</strong> Facilities Administration<br />
Manager, Lu<strong>the</strong>r McLain, <strong>for</strong> details at<br />
(403) 678-3200 ext. 104 or e-mail<br />
lmclain@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
Classifi ed Ads:<br />
Up to 25 words <strong>for</strong> $100 per issue<br />
$75 <strong>for</strong> <strong>Club</strong> Members<br />
E-mail your ad to:<br />
ads@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
or mail to <strong>the</strong> address on page 3.
2003 Grant Funded Projects<br />
<strong>The</strong><br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> awarded<br />
$12,500 in grants to ten worthy<br />
mountain related projects this year.<br />
Environment Fund<br />
Melting <strong>Mountains</strong> Awareness Program<br />
($1,400) – Ian Bruce, Vancouver Section<br />
member, is <strong>the</strong> director <strong>of</strong> this undertaking<br />
and has produced and will distribute a<br />
brochure titled Melting <strong>Mountains</strong>.<br />
Cliff Face Vegetation Communities<br />
Project ($1,400) – Headed by Kathryn<br />
Kuntz, Cliff Ecology Research Group at <strong>the</strong><br />
University <strong>of</strong> Guelph in Ontario, <strong>the</strong> project<br />
will research and document <strong>the</strong> impacts <strong>of</strong><br />
sport climbing on vegetation on cliff faces<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Niagara Escarpment area.<br />
Jen Higgins Memorial Fund<br />
Vampire Spires All-Female Expedition<br />
($4,300) – Jasmine Caton, Lindsay Herlinger<br />
and Amelia Patterson, will attempt new routes<br />
and fi rst all-women ascents in <strong>the</strong> Vampire<br />
Spires, a group <strong>of</strong> granite towers near <strong>the</strong><br />
Cirque <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Unclimbables in NWT.<br />
Helly Hansen Mountain Adventure Award<br />
Mt. Bute 2003 Expedition ($500) – Jia<br />
Condon and Rich Prohaska, both Whistler<br />
Section members, will attempt a fi rst ascent<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1525 m NW face <strong>of</strong> Mt. Bute in<br />
mixed winter conditions.<br />
Devil’s Thumb NW Face ($500) - Guy<br />
Edwards, John McKim Millar and Kai<br />
Hirvonen (non-members) <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir attempt<br />
on this demanding 6500ft objective <strong>of</strong><br />
located on <strong>the</strong> Skikine Icecap on <strong>the</strong><br />
BC/Alaska border in clean alpine style.<br />
Tragically, Guy and John went missing on<br />
<strong>the</strong> expedition and are presumed dead. A<br />
memorium will appear in <strong>the</strong> 2003 issue <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal.<br />
Midwest Ice: A Video Guide to <strong>the</strong><br />
Thunder Bay Ice Climbs $500 – Jevon<br />
Hagens, a Thunder Bay Section member,<br />
will produce a video guide to <strong>the</strong> ice climbs<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Thunder Bay region as a useful<br />
resource <strong>for</strong> traveling climbers. A copy <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> video will be provided to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong><br />
<strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>’s library.<br />
Hollyburn Ridge Oral History<br />
Collection ($200) – Iloa Musfeldt<br />
Knight and Tony Knight, members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Vancouver Section and <strong>The</strong> Hollyburn<br />
Heritage Society, will continue to collect<br />
oral histories from pioneer hikers, skiers and<br />
cabin owners from <strong>the</strong> 1920s to 1960s who<br />
are still living in Hollyburn Ridge.<br />
Axel Heiberg Haute Ski Traverse<br />
($1000) – Gregory Horne, Louise Jarry,<br />
Steve Blake, Greg Statter and Grant<br />
Dixon visit <strong>the</strong> Arctic <strong>for</strong> an unsupported<br />
north to south six-week ski traverse <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
mountainous polar island.<br />
Women’s Waddington Traverse ($2,200)<br />
– Katy Holm, Vancouver Island Section<br />
heads this expedition with Cecilia Mortenson<br />
and Karen McNeill. <strong>The</strong>y will attempt <strong>the</strong><br />
second ascent <strong>of</strong> this nine-peak traverse that<br />
is considered <strong>the</strong> prize <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Coast Range.<br />
Mountaineering Expedition to<br />
Nyainquentangla East Range, Tibet ($500)<br />
– Graham Rowbotham leads an exploratory<br />
expedition with Adam Thomas, Phil Amos<br />
and Bryan Godfrey. <strong>The</strong>y will explore and<br />
make fi rst ascents <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> east range including<br />
its highest peak Nenang (6870 m).<br />
Annual application deadlines are<br />
January 31. For fur<strong>the</strong>r in<strong>for</strong>mation<br />
and application <strong>for</strong>ms visit<br />
www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca/funds<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> ● Gazette ● Summer 2003 23