Fall 2006 - The Alpine Club of Canada
Fall 2006 - The Alpine Club of Canada
Fall 2006 - The Alpine Club of Canada
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Vol. 21, No. 3 � <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2006</strong><br />
Centennial<br />
Events Photo<br />
Album<br />
page 12<br />
Researchers study<br />
Juneau Icefi eld<br />
page 6
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A B S O L U T E A L P I N E
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
Publications Mail Agreement No. 40009034<br />
Return undeliverable Canadian Addresses to:<br />
Th e <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
Box 8040, Canmore, AB<br />
<strong>Canada</strong> T1W 2T8<br />
Phone: (403) 678-3200<br />
Fax: (403) 678-3224<br />
info@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
Cam Roe,<br />
Peter Muir,<br />
Gord Currie,<br />
Roger Laurilla<br />
Isabelle Daigneault,<br />
Carl Hannigan,<br />
Bob Sandford,<br />
David Zemrau,<br />
Mike Mortimer,<br />
David Toole,<br />
Glen Boles,<br />
Bruce Keith,<br />
President<br />
Secretary<br />
Treasurer<br />
VP Activities<br />
VP Access & Environment<br />
VP Facilities<br />
VP Mountain Culture<br />
VP Services<br />
Director, External Relations<br />
Director, Planning<br />
& Development<br />
Honorary President<br />
Executive Director<br />
Submissions to the Gazette are welcome! Th e<br />
deadline for the Winter issue <strong>of</strong> the Gazette<br />
is December 10. If possible, please save your<br />
submission in digital format and e-mail it to<br />
Gazette@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca Otherwise, feel<br />
free to type or handwrite it, making sure it’s double<br />
spaced and legible and mail it to the address above.<br />
Please be sure to include complete contact information<br />
with your submission.<br />
Lynn Martel, Gazette Editor<br />
Richard Berry, Photo Editor<br />
Suzan Chamney, Layout & Production<br />
Advertising rate sheet available upon request.<br />
Please direct all advertising inquiries to Suzan<br />
Chamney, National Offi ce (403) 678-3200 x 106 or<br />
by e-mail to: ads@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
Corporate Supporters<br />
What’s Inside...<br />
Editorial<br />
4 Short Rope<br />
Mountaineering / Climbing<br />
9 <strong>Canada</strong>’s McColl wins Youth World<br />
Championships<br />
10 Yukon Centennial Camp expands<br />
region’s climbing record<br />
16 De-constructing avalanche<br />
decision-making<br />
18 Touched by history at Abbot Hut<br />
Facilities<br />
21 Solar powered lights installed at Fay<br />
Hut<br />
22 Kokanee and Fairy Meadow ski<br />
weeks available<br />
Science<br />
6 Researchers study Juneau Icefi eld<br />
15 <strong>Club</strong> hosts <strong>Canada</strong>’s fi rst mountainfocussed<br />
climate change<br />
workshop<br />
What’s Outside...<br />
Th e <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> thanks the following for their support, and encourages<br />
you to consider them and the advertisers in this newsletter the next time you purchase<br />
goods or services <strong>of</strong> the type they <strong>of</strong>f er.<br />
Corporate Sponsors<br />
Printed on recycled paper<br />
Mountain Culture<br />
8 Art: Exhibit pairs artists and<br />
mountaineers<br />
12 Centennial Events Photo Album<br />
13 <strong>Fall</strong> Centennial events listing<br />
14 When nature is calling…<br />
National News<br />
4 <strong>Canada</strong> Post honours ACC with<br />
special Centennial stamp<br />
5 Progress!!<br />
22 Hans Gmoser – Canadian<br />
mountain pioneer<br />
23 National Offi ce news<br />
24 Centennial Fund Campaign<br />
Awards / Notices / Classifi ed Ads<br />
9 Karl Nagy Memorial Award<br />
11 Financial Grants<br />
14 Awards<br />
20 Get the Goods<br />
23 Classifi ed Ads / Notices<br />
Front cover: Canadian Pacifi c’s Empress 2816 steams toward Field BC to pick up ACC<br />
members en route to Rogers Pass for the 101st Annual General Meeting;<br />
photo by Dan Neil: www.cloudtoground.com<br />
Inset: An aerial view <strong>of</strong> Taku Glacier at its terminus reveals an epoch <strong>of</strong><br />
advancement that has slowly decreased due to a diminishing mass balance<br />
throughout the last decades; photo by Pablo Wainstein.<br />
Corporate Members<br />
Advantage Travelworld (Canmore, AB)<br />
Black Diamond Equipment<br />
Dunham<br />
Forty Below<br />
G3 Genuine Guide Gear<br />
GearUp Sport (Canmore, AB)<br />
Integral Designs<br />
Leki USA<br />
Mammut<br />
Ortovox <strong>Canada</strong><br />
Outdoor Research<br />
Patagonia<br />
Petzl<br />
Yamnuska (Canmore, AB)<br />
Associate Members<br />
Th e <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> is proud<br />
to be associated with the following<br />
organizations that share our goals and<br />
objectives:<br />
Alberta Sport, Recreation, Parks<br />
and Wildlife Foundation (ASRPWF)<br />
Association <strong>of</strong> Canadian Mountain Guides<br />
(ACMG)<br />
Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA)<br />
Ecole Nationale d’Escalade du Québec<br />
(ENEQ)<br />
Federation <strong>of</strong> Mountain <strong>Club</strong>s <strong>of</strong> British<br />
Columbia (FMCBC)<br />
Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de<br />
l’escalade (FQME)<br />
Mountain Culture at the Banff Centre<br />
Whyte Museum <strong>of</strong> the Canadian Rockies<br />
(Banff, AB)<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong> 3
Lynn contemplating Nevada Taulliraju (5830 m) in<br />
Peru’s Cordillera Blanca SUBMITTED PHOTO<br />
Short Rope<br />
BY LYNN MARTEL<br />
I<br />
must confess, while <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Canada</strong> members across the country<br />
celebrated our <strong>Club</strong>’s Centennial by<br />
participating in a wide variety <strong>of</strong> exciting<br />
events and activities throughout the<br />
summer, I was exploring the mountains<br />
<strong>of</strong> Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. While I was a<br />
reluctant to miss out on the fun captured<br />
in this issue’s Centennial Photo Album,<br />
Peru was too good to pass up.<br />
Among the rewards <strong>of</strong> experiencing<br />
new mountains is the view – not only the<br />
BY LYNN MARTEL<br />
To help the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
celebrate its Centennial, <strong>Canada</strong><br />
Post unveiled a special postage<br />
stamp on July 19 at the Civic Centre in<br />
Canmore, Alberta, where ACC members<br />
and all Canadians got to see the stamp<br />
for the fi rst time.<br />
One <strong>of</strong> two special (and completely<br />
unrelated) stamps that were released<br />
in July, the appearance <strong>of</strong> “Th e<br />
Mountaineering Stamp” was a closely<br />
guarded secret until the public unveiling.<br />
“I think it’s beautiful,” said ACC<br />
Executive Director Bruce Keith. “It’s<br />
extremely colourful, it indicates a lot <strong>of</strong><br />
thought was put into the design.”<br />
Th e idea for the stamp was born in<br />
the late 1990s, the collaboration <strong>of</strong> several<br />
ACCers, including long-time member<br />
Bev Bendell and Mountain Culture<br />
Committee members. Initial plans were<br />
then pursued by another long-time ACC<br />
member and Centennial Committee<br />
Chair Mike Mortimer.<br />
“It goes back a long way,” Keith said.<br />
4 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong><br />
stunning Peruvian Andes, but also the<br />
refreshed view by which I now look at<br />
<strong>Canada</strong>’s mountains.<br />
It’s not just the spectacular peaks<br />
and valleys <strong>of</strong> the familiar Rockies and<br />
Columbia Mountains, but what I don’t<br />
see. Granola bar wrappers, empty water<br />
and energy drink containers, soiled toilet<br />
paper. Trekking in Peru highlighted for<br />
me the importance <strong>of</strong> recognizing the<br />
impacts we leave on the mountains we<br />
love – cultural as well as physical impacts.<br />
As climbers and skiers, and as ACC<br />
members, we must accept our obligation<br />
as stewards <strong>of</strong> the mountain environment.<br />
One thing the mountain views in<br />
<strong>Canada</strong> and Peru share is what we’re<br />
seeing less <strong>of</strong> every season – glaciers.<br />
Everywhere, they are shrinking at an<br />
alarming rate.<br />
Th e ACC was created not just<br />
to marvel in the view from the<br />
mountaintops, but also to share it. Th e<br />
<strong>Club</strong> was formed for the purpose <strong>of</strong><br />
gaining and sharing mountaineering<br />
skills and also knowledge – about<br />
glaciers, forests, fl owers, rocks and<br />
hoary marmots. Pr<strong>of</strong>essional mountain<br />
guides sharing the high alpine with their<br />
clients built our fi rst alpine huts. Now<br />
<strong>Canada</strong> Post honours ACC with special stamp<br />
“Way back in ’98 members were thinking,<br />
‘what can we do to make the <strong>Club</strong>’s<br />
Centennial special?’”<br />
Keith wrote to Postmaster General<br />
Andre Oullette that year, and waited until<br />
the end <strong>of</strong> 1999 before he received a reply,<br />
saying the request/suggestion was being<br />
channelled through <strong>Canada</strong> Post’s usual<br />
committees.<br />
“After that we didn’t hear anything<br />
back until 2002,” Keith said.<br />
Keith assured CP the <strong>Club</strong> was still<br />
interested in pursuing the project, and<br />
<strong>of</strong>f ered to help in any way possible.<br />
A couple <strong>of</strong> years later, a researcher<br />
visited Canmore to interview several key<br />
people and gather research.<br />
When in 2005, the list <strong>of</strong> stamps to be<br />
issued for <strong>2006</strong> was announced, the ACC<br />
Centennial stamp had made the list.<br />
“When we heard about that, we <strong>of</strong>f ered<br />
to help with the design, and the background<br />
research,” Keith said. “But they said no, they<br />
would assign a regular research consultant,<br />
as per standard procedure.”<br />
as North America’s largest operator <strong>of</strong><br />
backcountry huts, ACC members share<br />
their huts with non-members, guides<br />
and clients, snorers and non-snorers. Hut<br />
guests experience the epitome <strong>of</strong> sharing<br />
– from washing dishes to chopping<br />
fi rewood to changing outhouse barrels.<br />
At international conferences, the ACC<br />
shares its approaches for waste removal<br />
and maintaining clean waterways.<br />
Whether it’s leading a rope at a<br />
<strong>Club</strong> camp, volunteering on an ACC<br />
committee, or learning to operate a nail<br />
gun to help renovate a backcountry hut,<br />
ACC members share the role <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>’s<br />
mountain ambassadors.<br />
In this issue, you’ll also learn how,<br />
in its Centennial year, our <strong>Club</strong> has<br />
taken the sharp end <strong>of</strong> the rope in<br />
the climate change matter by hosting<br />
<strong>Canada</strong>’s fi rst climate change workshop<br />
focussed specifi cally on mountains.<br />
Mountaineering club representatives<br />
from around the world will discuss<br />
how our recreational activities might be<br />
aff ecting the alpine environment, and<br />
how shrinking glaciers are likely to aff ect<br />
our alpine activities.<br />
Th e view <strong>of</strong> shrinking glaciers is a<br />
responsibility all mountaineers share.<br />
While an idea for a commemorative<br />
coin – more complicated and more costly<br />
– never materialized, Keith said the<br />
ACC is thrilled to have its own special<br />
postage stamp – the fi rst Canadian<br />
stamp to feature climbers in action. Th e<br />
stamp’s Day <strong>of</strong> Issue booklet includes a<br />
portrait <strong>of</strong> ACC founder A.O. Wheeler<br />
– the second time the family has been so<br />
honoured. Th e booklet’s cover shows the<br />
stamp at an angle so the climbers appear<br />
With photos, old topographical survey map<br />
and ACC badge, the Day <strong>of</strong> Issue cover with the<br />
actual stamp in the corner resembles a scrapbook<br />
capturing old and new faces <strong>of</strong> climbing.
Progress!!<br />
BY DAVID TOOLE<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>’s online<br />
member pr<strong>of</strong>i le registration is<br />
now available.<br />
Th e <strong>Club</strong>’s Information Technology<br />
team has been making some good<br />
progress on keeping ACC members<br />
up-to-date on the IT front – meaning<br />
that systems and computers are forming<br />
a more signifi cant part <strong>of</strong> our lives at the<br />
<strong>Club</strong>. We recently set up a program that<br />
will allow members the ability to create<br />
their own pr<strong>of</strong>i le and have access to basic<br />
information the <strong>Club</strong> has on fi le for them<br />
in its database.<br />
Th is capability will allow members<br />
to update their pr<strong>of</strong>i le to keep their<br />
personal information current. It will<br />
also allow the IT team to <strong>of</strong>f er other<br />
features, some immediately and some<br />
to come shortly. For example, when<br />
you visit the <strong>Club</strong>’s home page now at<br />
www.alpineclub<strong>of</strong>canada.ca you will<br />
see a link to the Member Pr<strong>of</strong>i le area.<br />
After you follow the easy registration<br />
steps you’ll be presented other options,<br />
Continued from page 4.<br />
vertical. Delegates at the International<br />
Mountaineering and Climbing<br />
Federation (UIAA) meetings in October<br />
in Banff will receive a collectors’ edition<br />
as part <strong>of</strong> their gift package.<br />
“It’s a huge milestone in the <strong>Club</strong>’s<br />
evolution and history,” Keith said. “Th e<br />
stamp program is an excellent way for<br />
all Canadians to know about Canadian<br />
events, including those that focus<br />
primarily on one aspect <strong>of</strong> geography or<br />
history.”<br />
Xerxes Irani <strong>of</strong> Calgary’s Non<br />
Fiction Design, one <strong>of</strong> the two artists<br />
commissioned to design the stamp, was<br />
present at the unveiling, along with Ivan<br />
Hlavenka from <strong>Canada</strong> Post, and about<br />
50 ACC members and staff and general<br />
public.<br />
Th e event also included a screening <strong>of</strong><br />
a short fi lm on the history <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Club</strong>,<br />
produced by ACC VP Mountain Culture,<br />
Bob Sandford.<br />
“Our members should be extremely<br />
proud,” Keith said.<br />
including the ability to change your<br />
contact information – such as when you<br />
move and want to register your new<br />
address. In addition, you will be able to<br />
indicate your interest in subscribing (or<br />
unsubscribing) to the ACC NewsNet,<br />
which provides news about the <strong>Club</strong> as it<br />
happens via e-mail.<br />
In the future we will be <strong>of</strong>f ering<br />
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on-line ability to join or renew your<br />
membership, purchase items from the<br />
<strong>Club</strong> store, book huts and carry out other<br />
transactions, all via the <strong>Club</strong>’s secure<br />
website.<br />
Th e ACC’s skilled IT team has<br />
worked hard to get this up and running<br />
and we think you will be impressed with<br />
the result.<br />
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<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong> 5
Researchers study Juneau Icefi eld<br />
BY PABLO WAINSTEIN<br />
Wind started to blow and I<br />
felt the chills on my back.<br />
My partners and I had been<br />
working all day on Taku Glacier on<br />
Alaska’s Juneau Icefi eld, digging snow<br />
pits and setting up ablation stakes to<br />
measure the losses and gains <strong>of</strong> snow<br />
and ice <strong>of</strong> the icefi eld. Known as a mass<br />
balance, the process requires digging<br />
several snow pits four or fi ve metres<br />
deep to see how much snow is left from<br />
the previous year’s snowfall. After the<br />
fi rst layer from the previous winter is<br />
determined, its depth is measured and<br />
snow samples are taken from the pit wall<br />
to calculate the snow’s density and water<br />
equivalency. Covering about 671 square<br />
kilometres, with a maximum depth <strong>of</strong><br />
about 1400 m, Taku Glacier is considered<br />
a maritime temperate glacier because it<br />
is located near the ocean coastline and its<br />
ice is on average 0°C from the surface to<br />
the bottom.<br />
As a member <strong>of</strong> the Juneau Icefi eld<br />
Research Program ( JIRP), I am part <strong>of</strong><br />
a research team that works in a huge<br />
and awesome outdoor lab. Watching<br />
water carve its way through ice, building<br />
a piping system that looks almost as<br />
Pablo Wainstein conducts ground penetrating<br />
radar surveys to determine the glacier’s depth and<br />
inner hydrology. SUBMITTED PHOTO<br />
complicated a Swiss cheese, I have<br />
worked on several glaciers in Alaska,<br />
Alberta, British Columbia, the Andes<br />
and Patagonia. In all those places, glaciers<br />
share a common denominator – they are<br />
retreating.<br />
� � �<br />
In 1946, a young PhD student named<br />
Maynard M. Miller, full <strong>of</strong> energy and<br />
a keen interest in understanding the<br />
frozen world around us, decided to<br />
begin research on the Juneau Icefi eld,<br />
which stretches from Juneau, Alaska to<br />
the southern limits <strong>of</strong> Atlin Lake BC.<br />
He formed a group <strong>of</strong> researchers and<br />
mountaineers in order to explore and<br />
trace access routes onto Taku Glacier.<br />
After struggling through the Alaskan<br />
bush they were astonished with what<br />
they saw – an enormous natural lab to<br />
study glaciers. Th e expedition was very<br />
successful, triggering the formation <strong>of</strong><br />
the JIRP, one <strong>of</strong> the world’s longest<br />
research and educational programs in<br />
glaciology. With slightly more than 60<br />
years <strong>of</strong> operation, thousands <strong>of</strong> students<br />
haven gone through the program, and<br />
many prosperous research careers have<br />
developed.<br />
Based in Juneau, every year the<br />
program receives students from <strong>Canada</strong>,<br />
the U.S. and other parts <strong>of</strong> the world<br />
interested in learning about natural<br />
systems, glaciology and climatology, and<br />
more importantly to gain experience in<br />
fi eldwork. After spending some days in<br />
Juneau, traveling around the Mendenhall<br />
and Herbert Glaciers, students, staff<br />
and researchers begin their long journey<br />
that for years has been done by foot<br />
and ski across the icefi eld. Supplies and<br />
equipment are fl own in by helicopter.<br />
Along the route, JIRP has established<br />
several research stations that enable<br />
safe and eff ective fi eldwork. Alaska can<br />
sometimes present such hostile weather<br />
that research is hindered by the needs<br />
<strong>of</strong> survival during the eight weeks <strong>of</strong> the<br />
program.<br />
Years ago, much more time was<br />
dedicated to normal daily routines.<br />
Nowadays, thanks to the facilities and<br />
organization, researchers can dedicate<br />
more eff ective time to their teaching and<br />
fi eld experiences. Th e group stays two<br />
weeks per station. As the team moves<br />
forward into the icefi eld toward the town<br />
<strong>of</strong> Atlin BC, the weather becomes drier<br />
and more comfortable. Near the icefi eld’s<br />
northern limits, where the landscape<br />
has been transformed by retreating<br />
glaciers, nights are sometimes coloured<br />
by vibrant northern lights. Countless<br />
diff erent geomorphologic features such<br />
as moraines, lakes and rivers have evolved<br />
due to the warming period the earth is<br />
suff ering.<br />
As glaciers advanced during colder<br />
climate periods <strong>of</strong> past geological history,<br />
ice eroded the valley bottoms and<br />
sides, scraping out material that then<br />
accumulated at the front or margins<br />
<strong>of</strong> the glacier. Later, during periods<br />
<strong>of</strong> warmer climate, ice bodies began<br />
retreating, leaving behind elongated<br />
accumulations <strong>of</strong> debris – moraines –<br />
which sometimes act as natural dams that<br />
incite the collection <strong>of</strong> meltwater forming<br />
a pro glacial lake. Th ese are common in<br />
the Canadian Rockies.<br />
Th rough JIRP’s 60 years <strong>of</strong> research,<br />
glaciers have been retreating drastically.<br />
Camp 10, one <strong>of</strong> JIRP’s largest stations on the Juneau Icefi eld, accommodating up to 50 people, has been<br />
the main camp for the research program’s operations throughout its history. PHOTO BY PABLO WAINSTEIN
Th ere is no doubt about the warming<br />
period the planet is suff ering, although<br />
what is still disputable is what proportion<br />
human activity is responsible for. Lemon<br />
Creek Glacier, a small outlet <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Juneau Glacier, (11.2 square km), has been<br />
thinning and retreating dramatically since<br />
1953 – thinning at a rate <strong>of</strong> roughly 1.77<br />
m per year, and retreating 17.8 m per year.<br />
Taku Glacier, due to its larger size and<br />
inertia, was for decades the only glacier<br />
on the Juneau Icefi eld that had advanced.<br />
Not for long though, its mass balance<br />
began to decline in 1980.<br />
� � �<br />
Skiing back to camp, Dr. Miller<br />
queried me on the snow level <strong>of</strong> the pits<br />
we had just dug. Th is year we’ve had little<br />
snow and crevasses are opening sooner<br />
than other years. Th e snow pits were<br />
shallower than expected, on average the<br />
remains <strong>of</strong> the previous winter’s snowfall<br />
is roughly 3 m. He shook his head,<br />
grabbed my shoulder and asked…“What<br />
is nature telling us? If we could just speak<br />
Inside a 3.5 m snow pit, researcher Matt Beedle<br />
samples the wall to calculate the snow’s density<br />
and water equivalency. PHOTO BY PABLO WAINSTEIN<br />
its language, we could understand so<br />
much more!”<br />
With the end <strong>of</strong> the summer, we close<br />
up camp and move to Atlin, where the<br />
shining sun feels warm. Sitting on the<br />
lakeshore, waiting for my long expected<br />
shower, I looked at the surrounding<br />
mountains and smiled.<br />
As the program’s logistical manager<br />
and research associate, work never ends.<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> member Pablo<br />
Wainstein is a former Director <strong>of</strong> Chile’s<br />
CDUC Mountain School.<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong> 7
Exhibit pairs artists and mountaineers<br />
to create alpine impressions<br />
BY LYNN MARTEL<br />
Even before there were<br />
mountaineers, there were<br />
mountain artists.<br />
Th en in 2004, as a group <strong>of</strong> art<br />
loving <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> members<br />
contemplated diff erent ways to help<br />
celebrate the <strong>Club</strong>’s Centennial in <strong>2006</strong>,<br />
they focussed on one <strong>of</strong> the key tenets<br />
<strong>of</strong> the <strong>Club</strong> – “Th e promotion <strong>of</strong> art and<br />
literature as applied to mountain regions.”<br />
What would happen, they proposed,<br />
if an artist were to team up with a<br />
mountaineer? Now after two years <strong>of</strong><br />
organizing, planning and coordinating,<br />
Canmore artists Susan Gottselig and<br />
Donna Jo Massie, and their good friend<br />
Heather Mortimer from Calgary – all<br />
long time ACC members – are excited to<br />
see their project come to fruition.<br />
To create Th e Artist and the<br />
Mountaineer: An <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> Centennial<br />
Project, the three women paired up 13<br />
mountain artists with 13 respected ACC<br />
members. Each duo then travelled into<br />
the mountains together to a location<br />
<strong>of</strong> the mountaineer’s choosing where<br />
the artist would attempt to capture the<br />
essence <strong>of</strong> that mountaineer in a place<br />
that was signifi cant and special to them.<br />
Th e resulting pieces <strong>of</strong> art will be<br />
displayed at the Whyte Museum <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Canadian Rockies in Banff from October<br />
13 thru January 2007, in conjunction<br />
8 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong><br />
with an exhibit featuring historical ACC<br />
photographs to help celebrate the <strong>Club</strong>’s<br />
100th anniversary.<br />
Th e project required a considerable<br />
amount <strong>of</strong> planning and coordination,<br />
which amounted to something akin to<br />
triangulation – attempting to balance<br />
each <strong>of</strong> the artists’ styles and mediums,<br />
the mountaineers’ artistic preferences<br />
and choice <strong>of</strong> location, and the potential<br />
relationship between the artist and the<br />
mountaineer.<br />
“We didn’t want to defi ne what they<br />
wanted to do,” Gottselig said. “But we’d<br />
look at things like this place has a lot<br />
<strong>of</strong> rocks, let’s pair him up with a stone<br />
sculptor.”<br />
“And knowing this mountaineer<br />
might appreciate an abstract,” added<br />
Massie.<br />
Logistics were another concern, with<br />
the organizers asking the artists such<br />
questions as, “How far are you willing to<br />
walk?”<br />
“Nobody had to strap on crampons<br />
– that was a fear <strong>of</strong> some <strong>of</strong> the artists,”<br />
Mortimer laughed.<br />
Th e outings took place throughout<br />
the 2005 summer. Alpinist and mountain<br />
guide Barry Blanchard chose the base<br />
<strong>of</strong> Mount Yamnuska, veteran mountain<br />
guide and former rescue specialist Kiwi<br />
Gallagher chose for Massie to paint<br />
Painting – Ridge <strong>of</strong> Melting Faces, Golden BC, the location chosen by ACC General<br />
Mountaineering Camp organizer Brad Harrison PAINTING BY LEONA AMANN<br />
Mount Robson,<br />
while mountaineer<br />
and fi lmmaker Pat<br />
Morrow picked a<br />
spot in the Yukon.<br />
Fortunately,<br />
when the<br />
mountaineers –<br />
who were selected<br />
as a cross section<br />
<strong>of</strong> ACC members<br />
from diff erent<br />
generations who<br />
have contributed<br />
signifi cantly<br />
to the <strong>Club</strong><br />
through climbing<br />
exploits or various<br />
organizational<br />
eff orts – chose<br />
their locations,<br />
Artist Brent Laycock with mountain guide Barry<br />
Blanchard PHOTO BY CRAIG RICHARDS<br />
there was only one overlap.<br />
Th e triangulation process Mortimer<br />
said, ended up taking on a bit <strong>of</strong> a life <strong>of</strong><br />
its own.<br />
“It’s not just the selection <strong>of</strong> the artists<br />
and the selection <strong>of</strong> the mountaineer, but<br />
also making sure the chemistry between<br />
them is amenable,” Mortimer said. “As<br />
a consequence <strong>of</strong> that chemistry, the art<br />
refl ects that connection.”<br />
Th e artists were chosen based on<br />
a variety <strong>of</strong> criteria, including their<br />
proximity to the Canadian Rockies and<br />
their subjects, availability, and style and<br />
medium – ranging from pen and ink<br />
sketches to sculptures, and from realistic<br />
to abstract.<br />
Th e one thing that tied the artists<br />
and the mountaineer together was an<br />
underlying love <strong>of</strong> the mountains, she<br />
added.<br />
“Th ere are a lot <strong>of</strong> insights people<br />
have gained from one another,” Mortimer<br />
said. “Some <strong>of</strong> the pairs even blossomed<br />
into friendships, and they went back out<br />
into the mountains together on other<br />
occasions just for a hike.”<br />
On their initial outing – some <strong>of</strong><br />
which involved creek crossings and hikes<br />
to ridge tops or mountain passes, but no<br />
technical climbing – the artists made<br />
sketches and took photographs and notes<br />
to guide them back in their studios.<br />
Canmore videographer Joseph Potts<br />
then fi lmed the artists working in their<br />
studios to create a looped videotape<br />
which will run as part <strong>of</strong> the exhibit.<br />
As well, exhibit curator Craig<br />
Richards photographed each <strong>of</strong> the artist/<br />
mountaineer pairs, creating images that<br />
will appear in the exhibit catalogue.<br />
“I think the concept is fantastic, from<br />
the experience <strong>of</strong> being with one person<br />
who thought it was a special place, to
<strong>Canada</strong>’s McColl<br />
wins Youth World<br />
Championships<br />
In August, Vancouver’s Sean McColl<br />
won both the Lead and Speed events<br />
at the Youth World Championships<br />
in Imst, Austria. A constant threat on<br />
the <strong>2006</strong> World Cup circuit, McColl, 19,<br />
has consistently placed top 10. As well, in<br />
her fi rst international competition, Katie<br />
Mah pulled her way to a solid third place<br />
in the Youth B division. Twenty-four<br />
members <strong>of</strong> the Competition dÉscalade<br />
<strong>Canada</strong> (CEC) Youth National Team<br />
competed in Austria, producing <strong>Canada</strong>’s<br />
best ever overall results at a World<br />
Championships.<br />
After a series <strong>of</strong> sanctioned events<br />
across <strong>Canada</strong>, the CEC Open National<br />
Bouldering Team for <strong>2006</strong>/07 was<br />
announced in May. With hometowns<br />
from North Vancouver to Halifax to<br />
Saskatoon to Gatineau, Quebec, the 10<br />
females and 10 males represent a true<br />
cross-section <strong>of</strong> the country.<br />
To learn more, go to:<br />
www.competitionclimbingcanada.com<br />
Continued from page 16.<br />
create something special artistically out <strong>of</strong><br />
the relationship that was created between<br />
the artist and the subject in that place,”<br />
Richards said. “It follows along the lines<br />
<strong>of</strong> what they (the ACC) did at the early<br />
camps, when the climbers would go out<br />
and experience the mountains through<br />
their climbs, while the artists were also<br />
brought out into the mountains to create<br />
from what they experienced.”<br />
Historically, the project creators said,<br />
the ACC fostered the artist/mountaineer<br />
relationship, particularly at the annual<br />
camps where mountaineers, artists and<br />
scientists would gather, <strong>of</strong>ten generating<br />
diff erent interpretations <strong>of</strong> the mountain<br />
landscapes, complete with an art tent at<br />
the camps. Today the <strong>Club</strong>’s activities<br />
tend to be more segmented, they said.<br />
“Th rough this exhibit we hope<br />
to bring together the culture, the<br />
mountaineers we’re here to honour and<br />
the art,” Massie said.<br />
Th e Artist and the Mountaineer runs<br />
October 13 thru January 2007 at the Whyte<br />
Museum <strong>of</strong> the Canadian Rockies in Banff .<br />
Reprinted with permission from the<br />
Rocky Mountain Outlook.<br />
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<strong>The</strong> Karl Nagy Memorial Award was established in 2001 to assist aspiring<br />
amateur leaders and guides develop their leadership skills. Until his death in 2000,<br />
Karl set an outstanding example as a mentor in the mountains and was well known<br />
for his leadership, safety and success.<br />
Th is award provides an opportunity for ACMG (Association <strong>of</strong> Canadian<br />
Mountain Guides) candidates and <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> (ACC) aspiring amateur<br />
leaders to participate at the ACC General Mountaineering Camp.<br />
Amateur ACC leaders and ACMG candidates are given priority in alternating<br />
years; 2007 is set for an ACMG candidate. All applicants must be current ACC<br />
members. In years designated for ACMG candidates, applicants must also have<br />
passed their ACMG assistant rock guide, assistant alpine guide and/or assistant ski<br />
guide exams. Deadline for applications is January 31, 2007. For more information,<br />
visit: www.alpineclub<strong>of</strong>canada.ca/activities/leadership.html#nagy<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong> 9
Yukon Centennial Camp expands region’s climbing record<br />
STORY & PHOTOS BY PAUL GEDDES<br />
This past June, I was out with a<br />
group <strong>of</strong> <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
climbers, ‘whooping it up’ in<br />
the Icefi eld Ranges <strong>of</strong> the Saint Elias<br />
Mountains.<br />
During several previous expeditions<br />
by me and other Toronto Section<br />
members to the area, an inventory<br />
<strong>of</strong> climbing opportunities had been<br />
tabulated: Pinnacle Peak 1990, Donjek<br />
1992, Slaggards 1997, Steele 2000, Latus<br />
Arm 2003 and South Walsh 2005.<br />
Donjek, the site <strong>of</strong> our 1992 camp, was<br />
selected as the prime location for the<br />
<strong>Club</strong>’s Centennial camp for several<br />
reasons: its close proximity to the lee<br />
side <strong>of</strong> Mount Logan, relatively simple<br />
aircraft access to the Kluane Lake airstrip<br />
and a multitude <strong>of</strong> reasonable climbing<br />
objectives, all approachable on skis.<br />
When our group arrived on the<br />
shores <strong>of</strong> Kluane Lake on June 2, the<br />
last remnants <strong>of</strong> the winter ice were<br />
still evident. Beginning our fl ights into<br />
basecamp the following day, we felt<br />
very lucky to get the majority <strong>of</strong> our<br />
Camp participants proudly display ACC Centennial fl ag<br />
10 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong><br />
party onto the glacier<br />
as scheduled. Th e <strong>2006</strong><br />
climbing season had been<br />
particularly hampered<br />
by poor weather<br />
throughout May, and<br />
several parties couldn’t fl y<br />
in to their destinations<br />
at all. Unfortunately,<br />
our window <strong>of</strong> fl ying<br />
opportunity closed with us – short two<br />
fl ights and four members <strong>of</strong> our group.<br />
Willa Harasym, our volunteer logistics<br />
manager, provided the necessary support<br />
to the splinter group at the airstrip until<br />
fl ights could resume four days later.<br />
Reading, grocery trips to Haines Junction,<br />
and eating and socializing with other<br />
stranded climbers occupied their days. By<br />
the time the fl ights resumed, one delayed<br />
participant had decided that the potential<br />
isolation <strong>of</strong> the Saint Elias was more than<br />
he cared for and he stayed out to hike and<br />
tour the lowlands.<br />
With everyone fi nally together, the<br />
camp was now in full swing. One or<br />
more climbing objectives<br />
were accomplished each<br />
day except one, all skillfully<br />
planned and executed by<br />
Association <strong>of</strong> Canadian<br />
Mountain Guides guide<br />
Helen Sovdat, assisted by<br />
Tim Styles, an ACMG ski<br />
guide.<br />
Th e climbing record <strong>of</strong><br />
the rarely visited Eclipse<br />
Glacier was greatly<br />
expanded during our nine<br />
days <strong>of</strong> active climbing, with<br />
11 peaks climbed – four <strong>of</strong><br />
them fi rst recorded ascents<br />
and four by new routes.<br />
Yukon Centennial Camp with Mounts Walsh and Steele in the distance<br />
Donjek, Badham and Eclipse were all<br />
popular objectives for most <strong>of</strong> the group.<br />
With a stable weather forecast, Helen<br />
and three <strong>of</strong> our strongest members set<br />
<strong>of</strong>f on a three-day expedition to establish<br />
a high camp at the Walsh/Steele col,<br />
a day’s travel on skis with sleds from<br />
basecamp. Th eir reaching the 4507metre<br />
summit <strong>of</strong> Mount Walsh was an<br />
accomplishment beyond our expectations.<br />
Enjoying the best weather <strong>of</strong> the <strong>2006</strong><br />
climbing season, we were restricted to<br />
camp only one day, for 12 hours during<br />
a period <strong>of</strong> rain – very unusual for the<br />
camp’s 2830-metre elevation. We also<br />
enjoyed mostly excellent conditions,<br />
despite a wide variety <strong>of</strong> temperatures.<br />
During the fi rst few days we experienced<br />
winter-like ski conditions on north<br />
facing slopes, then after the rainstorm,<br />
conditions fi rmed up. In the last days <strong>of</strong><br />
the camp the glacier surface was very s<strong>of</strong>t<br />
by late afternoon.<br />
Taking advantage <strong>of</strong> blue skies, we<br />
fl ew out a couple <strong>of</strong> days prior to our<br />
scheduled departure date. Again, we<br />
managed to fl y out all but four <strong>of</strong> our<br />
team before a two-day weather delay. A<br />
brief respite in the weather allowed for<br />
the quick two fl ights needed to get the<br />
four remaining climbers out, but there<br />
wasn’t enough time for a third fl ight<br />
to fl y out the last <strong>of</strong> our gear and food.<br />
It would be a week before the weather
Financial Grants<br />
Through the generosity <strong>of</strong> many donors, the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> has<br />
funds in place to support mountaineering related projects and initiatives. Th e<br />
annual deadline for submission <strong>of</strong> grant applications is January 31, and the<br />
announcement date for grants awarded is March 15.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Environment Fund provides support for projects aimed at contributing to the<br />
protection and preservation <strong>of</strong> mountain and climbing environments, including the<br />
preservation <strong>of</strong> alpine fl ora and fauna in their natural habitat. Th e focus <strong>of</strong> the Fund is<br />
wilderness conservation.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Jen Higgins Fund promotes creative and energetic alpine related outdoor<br />
pursuits by women age 25 and younger. Th ese projects should demonstrate initiative,<br />
creativity, energy and resourcefulness with an emphasis on self-propelled wilderness<br />
travel, and should provide value and interest to the community.<br />
For complete information and application forms, visit our website:<br />
www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca/funds/index.html or contact the National Offi ce.<br />
Continued from page 6.<br />
stabilized suffi ciently to allow a fl ight<br />
back in to retrieve it. For the curious,<br />
there are ravens (and we saw an eagle) at<br />
this elevation!<br />
Piloting all <strong>of</strong> our fi xed wing fl ights<br />
was Donjek Upton, to whom Andy<br />
Williams, icon <strong>of</strong> fl ying in the Icefi eld<br />
Ranges for the last 30 years, passed the<br />
torch. Donjek is the son <strong>of</strong> Phil Upton,<br />
who decades before mentored Williams<br />
as his successor.<br />
Yukon <strong>Alpine</strong> Centennial Camp<br />
participants included Bill Walker, Ted<br />
Wood, Jan Ijsakkers, John Raich, John<br />
Myles, Uta Schuler, Jim Given, Bob<br />
Bolin, Klaus Haring, Roger Wallis, Willa<br />
Harasym, Helen Sovdat, Tim Styles,<br />
Jessica Logher (cook), and Paul Geddes<br />
as camp manager.<br />
Everyone involved would like to thank<br />
Mountain Hardwear (Space Station<br />
basecamp tent), Bean North (premium<br />
fair trade organic c<strong>of</strong>f ee), Icefi eld<br />
Discovery (fi xed wing fl ights), Trans<br />
North Helicopters, Mary and Gerry<br />
Whitley (volunteer logistical support<br />
Whitehorse) and the ACC.<br />
www.ospreypacks.com<br />
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Sven Brunso in Valle Nevado, Chile. Photo: Scott Smith<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong> 11
Centennial Events<br />
Photo Album<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
6
8<br />
9<br />
12<br />
7<br />
10<br />
11<br />
Centennial Events<br />
October<br />
� Member Survey – help shape the future <strong>of</strong><br />
your <strong>Club</strong>! (see notice on page 5)<br />
October 10-11<br />
� Climate Change and its Aff ect on the <strong>Alpine</strong>,<br />
workshop – Banff Centre (see page 15)<br />
October 12<br />
� “Women Who Have Made a Diff erence”<br />
seminar – Banff Centre.<br />
October 12-14<br />
� Th e General Assembly <strong>of</strong> the International<br />
Mountaineering and Climbing Federation<br />
(UIAA) in Banff .<br />
October 13<br />
� Th e Artist and the Mountaineer, Th e Whyte<br />
Museum <strong>of</strong> the Canadian Rockies grand<br />
opening (see page 8)<br />
� Heritage Room and Pat Boswell (Toronto<br />
Section) Cabin opening at the Canmore<br />
<strong>Club</strong>house<br />
October 14<br />
� Th e Great Canadian Slide Show<br />
� Elizabeth Parker and the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Canada</strong> play<br />
� Centennial Dinner and Dance, Banff Park<br />
Lodge – SOLD OUT.<br />
Spring 2007<br />
� Th e Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal 2007<br />
Centennial Edition<br />
� Th is Way to the Stars – complete collection<br />
<strong>of</strong> Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journals 1907-<strong>2006</strong><br />
available on DVD<br />
To participate in Centennial events visit:<br />
www.alpineclub<strong>of</strong>canada.ca/centennial<br />
Centennial celebration photos:<br />
1. Yoho Camp participants climb Mount President;<br />
PHOTO BY DAVE MCCORMICK<br />
2. ACC members pose beside the Empress 2816 CPR<br />
train en route to the <strong>2006</strong> AGM at the Glacier Park<br />
Lodge in Rogers Pass BC; PHOTO BY CRAIG DOUCE<br />
3. David Toole and Isabelle Daigneault show <strong>of</strong>f the<br />
Yoho Pass commemorative cairn; SUBMITTED PHOTO<br />
4. Bob Sandford admires Lloyd “Kiwi” Gallagher’s<br />
historical costume; PHOTO BY WENDY EDGE<br />
5. Vancouver Island Section members form “100”<br />
on the summit <strong>of</strong> the Golden Hinde, VI’s highest<br />
peak. From left: Gordon Nienaber, Hinrich<br />
Schaefer, Julie Deslippe, Philippe Benoit and Jain<br />
Alcock-White; PHOTO BY SANDY BRIGGS<br />
6. Cam Roe and Dave McCormick admire the view<br />
atop Mount Kerr; SUBMITTED PHOTO<br />
7. Members enjoy the AGM dinner at the Wheeler<br />
Hut. Clockwise from left: Pat Morrow, Richard<br />
and Louise Guy, Marg Hind, Chic Scott; PHOTO BY<br />
LAWRENCE WHITE<br />
8. Peak Weekend <strong>2006</strong> participants hold the ACC<br />
Centennial fl ag atop Mount Victoria; PHOTO BY<br />
YVONNE KLEINLOGEL<br />
9. Arnica Palechuk rock-jocking in the Premier<br />
Range, Cariboo Mountains; PHOTO BY BRAD HARRISON<br />
10. Liz Boles and ACC Honorary President Glen Boles<br />
celebrate in front <strong>of</strong> Mount Vice-President <strong>Fall</strong>s;<br />
PHOTO BY ISABELLE DAIGNEAULT<br />
11. High Camp at the <strong>2006</strong> Centennial GMC with view<br />
to peaks <strong>of</strong> the north Cariboo Mountains; PHOTO BY<br />
ROGER LAURILLA<br />
12. Yoho Camp participants fi ll the staircase at<br />
Stanley Mitchell Hut; SUBMITTED PHOTO
A volunteer’s commitment to the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
Th e Gazette continues to recognize the contributions <strong>of</strong> some <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Canada</strong>’s (ACC) dedicated Executive Committee volunteers. Isabelle Daigneault joined the<br />
ACC in 1997. She served as Access & Environment representative with the Montreal Section<br />
from 1999 to 2003, and with the National Access & Environment Committee in 2004. In<br />
2005, she joined the <strong>Club</strong>’s Executive as VP Access & Environment. Isabelle lives in Montreal<br />
where she works in the Information Technology industry.<br />
When nature is calling…<br />
BY ISABELLE DAIGNEAULT<br />
It seems our lives are like a<br />
whirlwind… people come, people go,<br />
things happen. In all the insanity, the<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> has kept me close<br />
to some <strong>of</strong> my most important values<br />
– respect for the wild and serene places <strong>of</strong><br />
our world and the great comradeship that<br />
comes from living the basics and sharing<br />
outdoor experiences.<br />
I grew up in Quebec’s Eastern<br />
Townships in a natural setting where I<br />
spent a lot <strong>of</strong> time walking and skiing the<br />
wooded areas and farmland surrounding<br />
us. I always felt peaceful – picking berries,<br />
absorbing the smell <strong>of</strong> the ferns, listening<br />
to my feet walk through fallen leaves and<br />
even gliding across snowy meadows. It<br />
was and continues to be comforting to<br />
me.<br />
My parents took my brother and me<br />
hiking and skiing on weekends starting<br />
at a young age, and in 1995 I started rock<br />
climbing at Val David in the Laurentian<br />
Mountains <strong>of</strong> Quebec. My boyfriend at<br />
the time introduced me to climbing and<br />
then showed me pictures <strong>of</strong> the ‘BIG’<br />
mountains – the Canadian Rockies. Th e<br />
relationship ended, but the mountain<br />
legacy stayed. I felt the calling.<br />
I joined the ACC in 1997 as a member<br />
<strong>of</strong> the Montreal Section looking for<br />
climbing partners. I found not only<br />
climbing partners but also great people<br />
AWARDS AWARDS AWARDS<br />
Get your award nominations in by the December 31 deadline<br />
for the exceptional ACC volunteers <strong>of</strong> 2005. Choose the<br />
appropriate award: Don Forest Service Award, Distinguished<br />
Service Award, Eric Brooks Leader Award, Silver Rope for Leadership<br />
Award. All the award criteria and nomination forms are available at:<br />
www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca/awards/index.html or call the National Offi ce<br />
at (403) 678-3200 ext. 108 to receive information by mail.<br />
AWARDS AWARDS AWARDS<br />
14 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong><br />
and discovered a great organization<br />
that <strong>of</strong>f ered me the potential to further<br />
discover what nature had to <strong>of</strong>f er.<br />
Th e <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong>f ers so many outings<br />
and courses. I participated in many <strong>of</strong><br />
them and was fascinated by it all. Fellow<br />
ACC mates led many adventures and<br />
through them, I learned many things. I<br />
recall my fi rst multi-pitch climbs in the<br />
Adirondacks, feeling overwhelmed by the<br />
view and the teamwork it took to get to<br />
the top <strong>of</strong> the ridge. It seemed I was truly<br />
experiencing the very basic things <strong>of</strong> life<br />
with these people, in true humbleness.<br />
Th ere I <strong>of</strong>ten found myself, hanging <strong>of</strong>f<br />
a cliff at the belay, in close quarters with<br />
the third party on our rope!<br />
My fi rst few telemark turns on crusty<br />
snow in the Laurentians with fellow<br />
ACCers Andrew, Martin, Chris, Jackie,<br />
Suzie and Maria were awkward, but we<br />
shared many laughs. A few years later,<br />
I joined them on a ski trip to Fairy<br />
Meadow and then on a Section camp<br />
at Lake O’Hara – and the good times<br />
are still rolling. Ohhh – the many holds<br />
we pulled on, the many turns we carved<br />
in snow, the many trips we took to the<br />
Rockies to relish in the piles <strong>of</strong> rubble,<br />
the stories <strong>of</strong> this and that, the songs<br />
around the hut table, the scotch, the cabin<br />
games – it is such a tribute to the human<br />
spirit!<br />
Isabelle Daigneault hiking in Newfoundland’s<br />
Gros Morne National Park SUBMITTED PHOTO<br />
As I experienced great friendships,<br />
developed my skills and accessed many<br />
new places (some I never thought<br />
I’d visit), I felt the need to share the<br />
exhilaration <strong>of</strong> my discoveries with others<br />
and contribute to the <strong>Club</strong>. I also felt<br />
grateful to mother nature for providing us<br />
with such beautiful, natural, diverse places<br />
and thought: what would my life be like<br />
without these wild places? Really, what<br />
would the <strong>Club</strong> be without these wild<br />
and unique places?<br />
I wanted to give back so I became<br />
involved as Access & Environment<br />
representative at the section level in<br />
Montreal from 1999 until 2003 and<br />
then gave a hand to the National Access<br />
& Environment Committee in 2004.<br />
Since 2005 I have been serving on the<br />
National Executive, leading the Access &<br />
Environment portfolio.<br />
It is such a delicate balance to keep<br />
accessing our wild places and practicing<br />
the recreational activities that we do. Our<br />
‘impact’ on the environment is something<br />
that we need to continually study and<br />
negotiate with other stakeholders.<br />
In the mountains and in nature, I’ve<br />
found an astounding heritage, friends,<br />
truth and passion. Th e outdoors has<br />
also allowed me to keep my sanity in<br />
this hustle and bustle world. I believe I<br />
am not the only one who feels this way.<br />
Th ere are so many interesting people in<br />
the ACC. Each person I have met within<br />
the <strong>Club</strong> resonates with stories and<br />
experiences.<br />
I hope to continue my mountaineering<br />
pursuits as long as nature keeps calling<br />
to me, and as long as my legs can answer<br />
that call.
ACC hosts <strong>Canada</strong>’s fi rst mountain-focussed climate change workshop<br />
BY LYNN MARTEL<br />
As part <strong>of</strong> its <strong>2006</strong> Centennial<br />
celebrations, the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong><br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> presents a workshop<br />
titled Climate Change and its Aff ect on the<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong>. Th is is <strong>Canada</strong>’s fi rst ever climate<br />
change workshop to focus on mountains<br />
– examining the physical and recreational<br />
impacts <strong>of</strong> climate change in alpine<br />
environments worldwide, and seeking<br />
out ways in which the international<br />
mountaineering community might<br />
respond to these changes.<br />
Running at the Banff Centre in<br />
Banff , Alberta October 10 and 11,<br />
workshop sessions include such topics as<br />
Climate Change Impacts on the World’s<br />
Mountains from a Global Perspective,<br />
the Implications <strong>of</strong> Global Change for<br />
Canadian Mountains, and the Role <strong>of</strong> the<br />
UIAA and its Member Organizations in<br />
Addressing Climate Change Impacts on<br />
Mountain Regions Globally.<br />
Speakers include Dr. Shawn Marshall,<br />
University <strong>of</strong> Calgary Associate Pr<strong>of</strong>essor<br />
in glaciology and climatology – whose<br />
presentation will include a fi eld trip to<br />
Bow Lake and the Columbia Icefi eld<br />
– and Dr. David Sauchyn, chief scientist<br />
at the Prairie Adaptation Research<br />
Collaborative at the University <strong>of</strong> Regina,<br />
and member <strong>of</strong> the United Nations<br />
Intergovernmental Panel on Climate<br />
Change.<br />
Th e workshop is one component<br />
<strong>of</strong> the General Assembly <strong>of</strong> the<br />
International Mountaineering and<br />
Climbing Federation (UIAA), taking<br />
place in Banff October 14. Eighty to 100<br />
international delegates are expected to<br />
attend, including the presidents <strong>of</strong> at<br />
least 70 international mountaineering<br />
organizations.<br />
Th e UIAA’s fi rst general assembly to<br />
include discussions on climate change,<br />
the aim <strong>of</strong> the workshop is to put forward<br />
the latest information and emerging<br />
climate change adaptation strategies as<br />
PSST!<br />
Do you wanna be a famous<br />
writer? Ok, how about just a writer?<br />
Contact the Gazette editor at<br />
gazette@alpineclub<strong>of</strong>canada.ca<br />
to have your article, story or event<br />
published in the Gazette.<br />
a basis for establishing a protocol for<br />
action allowing the ACC to recognize<br />
and address climate change impacts on<br />
<strong>Canada</strong>’s mountain regions. It is hoped<br />
that the protocol will serve as a template<br />
for alpine organizations around the world<br />
interested in doing the same.<br />
Public attendance at the workshop is<br />
welcome and encouraged.<br />
BORN PROFESSIONALLY<br />
Th e UIAA General Assembly also<br />
includes:<br />
� Mountain Medicine seminar<br />
� Women and Mountaineering<br />
presentation<br />
� Training Standards workgroup.<br />
For registration information and<br />
a complete listing <strong>of</strong> events, visit:<br />
www.uiaainbanff .ca<br />
Rain. It gives life.<br />
It brings new growth. It cleanses the soul.<br />
But if you’re not prepared for the rain, it can test your tolerance.<br />
<strong>The</strong> PreCip Jacket by Marmot. <strong>The</strong> Rain Stops Here .<br />
Beth Rodden between climbs in L<strong>of</strong>oten, Norway | Photo Ace Kvale | marmot.com<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong> 15
De-constructing avalanche decision-making<br />
STORY & PHOTO BY MURRAY TOFT<br />
So, you’ve racked up a couple <strong>of</strong> Recreational Avalanche Courses and maybe<br />
even started on Canadian Avalanche Association pr<strong>of</strong>essional certifi cations.<br />
You’ve learned a lot about weather, snow mechanics, pr<strong>of</strong>i les and shear strength,<br />
terrain shape and the destructive capability <strong>of</strong> avalanches; and learned techniques for<br />
observing/recording phenomena <strong>of</strong> several kinds. You’ve spent (not nearly enough) time<br />
considering the complex decision-making process and the human factors that aff ect the<br />
‘fi nal call’ <strong>of</strong> whether to ski or not to ski. And you’ve practised how to respond when<br />
things go bad.<br />
Yet with all this must-know<br />
knowledge and technique, you’re<br />
wondering if you’re really ready to step<br />
out front with your peers and lead a trip<br />
this coming winter. With so much to<br />
keep track <strong>of</strong> when making that fi nal call,<br />
how you approach that decision is key.<br />
Over many years <strong>of</strong> involvement<br />
with avalanche courses I was continually<br />
intrigued by a phenomenon I called<br />
‘academic cross-over’. After classroom<br />
theory sessions and short-term technique<br />
labs, students repeatedly scored high<br />
in their knowledge base when exams<br />
were about theory. Yet even a couple<br />
<strong>of</strong> days after a written exam, the same<br />
students were <strong>of</strong>ten lacking when faced<br />
with decision making in real avalanche<br />
terrain, showing a lack <strong>of</strong> transference<br />
from classroom to fi eld. Eventually I<br />
decided this was because the students<br />
were on information overload, and lacked<br />
important cues to help sort through<br />
the volume <strong>of</strong> classroom theory for an<br />
appropriate response.<br />
Th e solution to this paralysis came<br />
from a hierarchy <strong>of</strong> questions shared<br />
with me years ago by Willi Pfi sterer,<br />
16 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong><br />
SKIERS ASCEND EMERALD GLACIER ON THE WAPTA TRAVERSE<br />
then Jasper National Park’s alpine<br />
safety specialist. Th ese “fi ve foreboding<br />
questions” became important cues for<br />
simplifying and applying the right<br />
knowledge and skills base in critical<br />
decision-making. I hope they help you<br />
stay on top this winter.<br />
1) Are we in avalanche terrain or<br />
threatened by avalanche terrain?<br />
Th is basic fi rst question should<br />
prompt a number <strong>of</strong> insights and<br />
awarenesses when you consider how you<br />
might get hit from avalanches started by<br />
either your group (triggering, settlement/<br />
propagation), other skiers above you<br />
(triggering pockets <strong>of</strong> instability), or from<br />
the environment itself (natural causes like<br />
temperature change or wind over-loading<br />
start zones). When you think about how<br />
planar, convex and concave landforms<br />
combine with slope steepness to create<br />
conditions that could catch you, you<br />
should commit to fi nding safe terrain<br />
as a matter <strong>of</strong> habit. Follow the high<br />
ground or least exposed ground whenever<br />
possible.<br />
2) Is the snowpack stable?<br />
Keeping track <strong>of</strong> the winter snowpack<br />
history, plus considering the current<br />
weather forecast and avalanche bulletin<br />
before you leave home, gives you a<br />
preliminary idea about stability and<br />
what to look for as you begin your tour.<br />
Th e bulletin allows you to anticipate<br />
suspicious layers in the general region.<br />
Consciously making visual observations<br />
for natural activity as you drive to your<br />
trailhead, noting recent snowfall amounts<br />
and taking a current temperature should<br />
help kick-start processing the “What<br />
about stability…?” question.<br />
As you gain altitude in your particular<br />
drainage, draw upon your full arsenal<br />
<strong>of</strong> tools and techniques to gain more<br />
precise local information on relative<br />
snowpack strength or weakness. Feedback<br />
from simple sounding techniques with<br />
your ski pole leads to further shovel<br />
tests, compression tests, and perhaps<br />
Rutschblock tests to discover where<br />
potential shear layers are and how<br />
sensitive they are to extra load. Start<br />
forming an opinion about the additional<br />
concentrated load you and your party<br />
can apply to the snowpack and if it will<br />
support that load given the terrain you<br />
intend to travel through. Your on-going<br />
observations provide immediate feedback
about stability, which leads to route<br />
fi nding and group management decisions.<br />
If your tests keep showing Good<br />
results, your likelihood <strong>of</strong> safely skiing<br />
in avalanche terrain is increased. If the<br />
snowpack isn’t acceptably stable, why are<br />
you there? You should be able to defend<br />
your reasoning in either case.<br />
3) If it goes, how much will go?<br />
Th is is a concurrent question with # 2<br />
that is answered as you discover the depth<br />
<strong>of</strong> the signifi cant shear layers. Applying<br />
the results to the terrain features you<br />
intend to move through provides a sense<br />
<strong>of</strong> scale. Open planar slopes or convexities<br />
may be susceptible to surprisingly wide<br />
propagation leading to signifi cant volume<br />
in a release <strong>of</strong> even shallow layers. In<br />
more convoluted and discontinuous<br />
terrain, a potential release may be<br />
contained within terrain features. At this<br />
point an honest estimate <strong>of</strong> potential<br />
avalanche size will temper your decisionmaking.<br />
Could the conditions you fi nd in<br />
your tests lead to a Size 1.5 avalanche or<br />
greater?<br />
4) If it goes where will it go to?<br />
Now you’re starting to think<br />
consequentially. If you can visualize a<br />
release <strong>of</strong> any signifi cant size moving you<br />
and your group down into mature timber,<br />
or into large exposed boulder fi elds or<br />
creekbeds or other hollows (crevasses)<br />
where the runout is confi ned, or over<br />
cliff s where trauma is even more likely,<br />
the route-fi nding decisions and further<br />
progress should be pretty obvious. In<br />
your mind’s eye you need to re-play the<br />
destructive avalanche video footage you<br />
saw in class to keep you brutally honest<br />
and avoid hazards that can swallow<br />
you from below. Err on the side <strong>of</strong> the<br />
mountain; a little slough when confi ned<br />
can add up to a lot <strong>of</strong> snow.<br />
When run-out zones take avalanche<br />
debris onto open, planar terrain such as<br />
wide, open valley bottoms or frozen lakes<br />
where the forces are diff used and spread<br />
out and anyone caught may “wash out”, a<br />
diff erent equation presents itself, leading<br />
to the fi nal question:<br />
5) Can we live with the consequences?<br />
Depending upon the group’s<br />
backcountry mileage, even minor<br />
settlements or sloughing can have<br />
a rattling aff ect on an individual’s<br />
performance, let alone a signifi cant<br />
release that could move people. Th e<br />
“what if ” question adds to the clarity<br />
as your mind conjures up the many<br />
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possible scenarios that could fall out <strong>of</strong> a<br />
poorly made decision. From lost skis to<br />
twisted knees, to an overnight out, to the<br />
worst-case scenario <strong>of</strong> a fatality, you have<br />
to think about how you will respond if<br />
things go bad. Is forcing the route a risk<br />
worth taking? Or are you confi dent in<br />
your assessment and ability to respond?<br />
Th e choice is yours.<br />
Th ink about these questions and have<br />
a safe winter.<br />
Murray T<strong>of</strong>t is a well-traveled<br />
Association <strong>of</strong> Canadian Mountain Guides<br />
(ACMG) guide and ACC member.<br />
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Robbie Hilliard. Photo by Joe Royer.<br />
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<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong> 17
Touched by history at Abbot Hut<br />
BY MARGARET IMAI-COMPTON<br />
Philip Abbot perished on August<br />
3, 1896 while attempting to<br />
climb Mount Lefroy near Lake<br />
Louise. His death was the fi rst recorded<br />
mountaineering fatality in <strong>Canada</strong>. One<br />
hundred and ten years later, on August 3,<br />
<strong>2006</strong>, I climbed Lefroy blissfully unaware<br />
<strong>of</strong> the signifi cance <strong>of</strong> the date.<br />
Later that afternoon, one <strong>of</strong> my fellow<br />
climbers on the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
Lake O’Hara Camp pointed to Abbot’s<br />
photo and biography mounted on the<br />
wall <strong>of</strong> Abbot Pass Hut, and noted the<br />
corresponding date <strong>of</strong> Abbot’s death.<br />
“Do you realize you climbed Lefroy<br />
on the anniversary <strong>of</strong> Abbot’s death?”<br />
Terry teased. “Making a little history<br />
yourself, are you?”<br />
Initially, I felt honoured to be<br />
connected to such a signifi cant<br />
event in Canadian mountaineering<br />
history, particularly as this Centennial<br />
year for the ACC has been steeped<br />
with commemorative events and<br />
publications. Later that evening, I sat<br />
and contemplated Abbot’s photograph<br />
in the hut, and refl ected more deeply<br />
on the connection. I tried to imagine<br />
what Abbot and his climbing party’s<br />
expectations would have been when they<br />
embarked on their climb, and worse still,<br />
how they dealt with the aftermath <strong>of</strong> his<br />
death on Lefroy.<br />
Looking toward Mount Lefroy’s west face from Mount Victoria's<br />
ridge. PHOTO BY PAUL POTVIN<br />
In Sean Dougherty’s Selected <strong>Alpine</strong><br />
Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, Mount<br />
Lefroy (3423 metres), is described as,<br />
“A classic Rockies ascent; almost all<br />
Rockies habitués have climbed it at<br />
some time. Low angled snow/ice slopes<br />
lead the whole way to the summit.” Th e<br />
description <strong>of</strong> the normal route sounded<br />
rather casual and certainly possible for<br />
even novice mountaineers. But in the<br />
grander context <strong>of</strong> 110 years, the contrast<br />
between Abbot’s demise on Lefroy<br />
and my successful climb boggles the<br />
imagination.<br />
In 1896, Abbot and his friends started<br />
from a small wooden lodging at the end<br />
<strong>of</strong> Lake Louise, climbed to Victoria<br />
Glacier via the Death Trap and then<br />
assessed their options at the pass. Th eir<br />
equipment was simple – canvas and<br />
leather rucksacks containing a lunch <strong>of</strong><br />
perhaps hard boiled eggs, some crusty<br />
bread and dried sausage; a length <strong>of</strong> hemp<br />
rope and wooden handled ice axes. Th ey<br />
wore tweed jackets and wool knickers;<br />
their footwear consisted <strong>of</strong> leather<br />
hobnailed boots. I don’t know if climbing<br />
helmets were necessary equipment at the<br />
time.<br />
One hundred and ten years later, I had<br />
the comfort and shelter <strong>of</strong> the Abbot Pass<br />
Hut both before and after my climb. I<br />
also had the leadership <strong>of</strong> Ge<strong>of</strong>f Ruttan,<br />
an ACMG (Association <strong>of</strong><br />
Canadian Mountain Guides)<br />
assistant guide. I was dressed<br />
in an extravaganza <strong>of</strong> GORE-<br />
TEX © that would ensure I<br />
stayed warm and dry as storm<br />
clouds moved in; my pockets<br />
were stuff ed with Clif Bars ©<br />
and gels so I could refuel<br />
within minutes. Our climbing<br />
gear consisted <strong>of</strong> ice screws,<br />
prussiks, webbing, a water<br />
resistant climbing rope and the<br />
skills to construct Abalakov<br />
anchors in the ice. None <strong>of</strong> this<br />
was available to Abbot and his<br />
climbing party in 1896.<br />
And what were the rescue<br />
possibilities when Abbot fell<br />
on the snow/ice slope? Imagine<br />
the horror <strong>of</strong> his friends as they<br />
helplessly watched him slide to<br />
his death. Today, there’s a phone<br />
Margaret Imai-Compton signs Mount Lefroy’s<br />
summit register. PHOTO BY GEOFF RUTTAN<br />
(yes – a phone!) in the Abbot Pass Hut,<br />
our lead guide had a satellite phone, and<br />
helicopter rescue has come to be regarded<br />
as a standard rescue option.<br />
For me, the ascent <strong>of</strong> Mount Lefroy<br />
was the highlight <strong>of</strong> the ACC Lake<br />
O’Hara Camp. While the group’s<br />
collective desire was to attempt Mount<br />
Victoria (3464 m), I opted for Lefroy<br />
because I had summitted spectacular<br />
Victoria the previous summer with Jim<br />
Gudjonson, the lead guide on this trip.<br />
While Ge<strong>of</strong>f and I were climbing<br />
Lefroy, we tracked the progress <strong>of</strong> our<br />
team on Victoria across the Continental<br />
Divide. We watched the three rope teams<br />
make good time over the initial rock<br />
sections, pop into view again as they<br />
crossed Th e Sickle and then periodically<br />
become visible at various points on the<br />
ridge en route to the south summit. Th e<br />
entire team was successful on Victoria<br />
and even managed to locate the summit<br />
register, which eluded my team last<br />
summer.<br />
Despite variable weather at the<br />
beginning <strong>of</strong> the camp, our group<br />
summitted Mounts Yukness (2851 m)<br />
and Odaray (3158 m) as warm-ups to<br />
Victoria and Lefroy. Th ere is a fi rst for<br />
me on every trip, and in this case, it was<br />
the distinctive ‘zinging’ <strong>of</strong> static on our<br />
ice axes as we congregated around the<br />
summit cairn on Odaray.<br />
“We’re out <strong>of</strong> here!” Jim fi rmly<br />
shouted over the buff eting <strong>of</strong> the wind as<br />
the storm enveloped the mountain.<br />
Lake O’Hara is nature’s exquisite<br />
gift to the planet, so it was inevitable<br />
that whatever we climbed, it would be<br />
spectacular. But thanks are also due to the<br />
ACC for a well-organized and guided<br />
trip. Jim Gudjonson, Ge<strong>of</strong>f Ruttan and<br />
Kirk Becker (who joined us at Abbot<br />
Pass Hut to lead another rope), made it<br />
possible for all <strong>of</strong> us to accomplish our
desired climbing objectives. Our camp<br />
manager, Dave Dornian, ensured that we<br />
were well fed and watered, in addition<br />
to leading a rope on every outing. Our<br />
merry group <strong>of</strong> climbers originated from<br />
across <strong>Canada</strong> – from Fort McMurray<br />
to the Maritimes and points in between.<br />
It was fi tting that this camp, designed<br />
to celebrate the area in which Canadian<br />
mountaineering had its origins, was<br />
composed entirely <strong>of</strong> Canadians<br />
– Brigitte and her dad Leo Parent, Ron<br />
Perrier, Terry Morris, Peter Morley,<br />
Joanne Winfi eld, Deb Perret and me.<br />
So how does one summarize a Lake<br />
O’Hara mountain adventure? Th e famous<br />
Group <strong>of</strong> Seven artist, J.E.H. MacDonald<br />
said it best in 1924:<br />
“I got to the beautiful Lake O’Hara<br />
lying in a rainbow sleep, under the steeps <strong>of</strong><br />
Mount Lefroy and the waterfalls <strong>of</strong> Oesa.<br />
And there I realized some <strong>of</strong> the blessedness<br />
<strong>of</strong> mortals … I have memories <strong>of</strong> the clearest<br />
crystal mountain days imaginable, when<br />
we fortunates in the height seemed to be sky<br />
people living in light alone.”<br />
Waf� e Stomper Terrastryder<br />
Would you sacri� ce the sum for its parts?<br />
Would you accept stability without � exibility?<br />
Forgo � t for fashion? Would you trade comfort<br />
for con� dence? Would you compromise your<br />
toes for the sake <strong>of</strong> your ankles? Your ankles<br />
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To � nd a Dunham dealer near you please call 1-877-7-DUNHAM or to check the latest product line visit our website www.dunham� ts.com<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong> 19
Getthe<br />
Goods<br />
Active Wear<br />
T-shirts<br />
with ACC logo or ACC leaf image<br />
100% Heavy Cotton, available in S, M, L, XL<br />
Colours include: Ash Grey, Natural, Khaki,<br />
Sage Green, Forest Green, Denim Blue,<br />
Cornfl ower Blue, and Medium Blue<br />
Accessories<br />
Stainless Steel Mug<br />
12 ounce, double walled mug to keep<br />
your beverage at the<br />
desired temperature.<br />
Non-slip rubber base.<br />
With ACC logo.<br />
Retail price: $19.95<br />
Greeting Cards<br />
Enjoy the tradition <strong>of</strong><br />
sending season’s greetings with<br />
these 6 x 4 inch cards, featuring<br />
an snowy Elizabeth Parker Hut.<br />
Packages <strong>of</strong> 10 cards with<br />
envelopes, seasonal message or blank inside.<br />
Retail price: $10.50<br />
Acclaimed Books<br />
<strong>The</strong> Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal <strong>2006</strong><br />
– edited by Ge<strong>of</strong>f Powter<br />
This high quality annual journal contains a<br />
wide range <strong>of</strong> reviews, reports and articles on<br />
Canadian mountaineering.<br />
Retail price: $32.95<br />
Member subscription price and back issues<br />
<strong>of</strong> the CAJ available – call for details.<br />
More books:<br />
New!<br />
Short-sleeve:<br />
Retail price: $11.95<br />
Waterbottle<br />
Guidebooks on mountaineering, climbing, skiing and hiking,<br />
as well as history and general interest books.<br />
Maps – topographical and Gemtrek’s recreational maps.<br />
Members receive 15% <strong>of</strong>f<br />
ALL regular retail prices<br />
Long-sleeve:<br />
Retail price: $15.95<br />
Green polycarbonate bottle with<br />
Centennial logo. Does not transfer<br />
taste. Dishwasher safe. 1 litre (32<br />
oz.) capacity<br />
Retail price: $ 11.95<br />
ACC Mountain Leaf Sticker<br />
(approx. size: 9 x 5 cm)<br />
Retail price: $0.99<br />
<strong>Club</strong> Centennial Crest<br />
Sew-on Centennial logo<br />
crest; leatherette on felt<br />
(approx. size: 7 cm<br />
triangle)<br />
Retail price: $3.95<br />
Centennial Jacket<br />
Black micro fl eece with<br />
embroidered Centennial<br />
logo. Mens & Womens<br />
S, M, L, XL<br />
Retail price: $59.95<br />
Centennial Beanies<br />
Black Ambler Power<br />
Stretch hats with gold<br />
embroidery “ACC 1906-<br />
<strong>2006</strong>”<br />
Performance fl eece<br />
hat that keeps you<br />
warm, dry and comfortable and is helmet<br />
compatible. <strong>The</strong> hat is 4-way stretch, the<br />
forehead is lined with micro fl eece and wicks<br />
sweat away.<br />
Retail price: $29.95<br />
<strong>Club</strong> Logo Pin<br />
Brass ACC pin<br />
(approx. size: 2.5 x 2 cm)<br />
Retail price: $3.95<br />
ACC Huts Poster<br />
Full colour, laminated poster<br />
with photos <strong>of</strong> all 23 <strong>Alpine</strong><br />
<strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> national<br />
huts arranged around a map<br />
depicting their locations.<br />
Actual Size: 12” x 18”<br />
Retail price: $ 11.70<br />
GST & shipping extra.<br />
www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca/store (403) 678-3200 ext. 1 info@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca
Solar powered lights installed<br />
at Fay Hut<br />
BY KAREN ROLLINS<br />
In June <strong>2006</strong>, a work crew <strong>of</strong><br />
about a dozen <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Canada</strong> members joined staff from<br />
Worley Parsons Komex environmental<br />
consultants to install a solar powered<br />
battery system that will provide lighting<br />
at Fay Hut in Kootenay National Park. A<br />
separate solar powered battery system was<br />
also installed at the outhouse to power<br />
two lights and a ventilation fan.<br />
Th e system includes four 150-watt<br />
solar panels, which were installed on the<br />
south exterior wall <strong>of</strong> the hut under the<br />
eaves. Th e angle <strong>of</strong> the panels is set to<br />
optimize charging <strong>of</strong> the system during<br />
the winter months and to help prevent<br />
accumulation <strong>of</strong> snow. Th e batteries<br />
were installed inside the hut in a small<br />
storage area under the stairs where they<br />
will be less aff ected by fl uctuating outside<br />
temperatures, which can reduce battery<br />
performance.<br />
Th e battery capacity is sized with<br />
suitable autonomy to operate the system<br />
on full load even through a period<br />
without sunshine. Th ermoelectric<br />
modules were installed on the wood stove<br />
to supplement battery bank charging.<br />
Eight Light Emitting Diode (LED)<br />
lights were installed in the sleeping area,<br />
including two in the custodian’s room,<br />
while fi ve more were installed downstairs<br />
in the kitchen, dining area and entrance.<br />
Two s<strong>of</strong>t compact fl uorescent lights<br />
are aimed at the living room ceiling to<br />
provide ambient lighting. Th ese very<br />
effi cient LED lights provide a highly<br />
focused light beam suitable for task<br />
lighting.<br />
Th e main motivation for installing<br />
the renewable energy system in Fay Hut<br />
comes from the ACC’s commitment<br />
to reduce its use <strong>of</strong> fossil fuels such as<br />
propane and helicopter fuel. Propane<br />
is currently used in most <strong>of</strong> the ACC’s<br />
huts for cooking and lighting, requiring<br />
the <strong>Club</strong> to rely on helicopters to<br />
service those facilities. Helicopters<br />
bring in fi rewood and propane and fl y<br />
out human waste and grey water solids.<br />
By introducing a solar powered energy<br />
system, the need for propane is reduced,<br />
as is the number <strong>of</strong> helicopter fl ights. Th e<br />
<strong>Club</strong> hopes to install similar systems in<br />
more <strong>of</strong> its huts, working closely with<br />
Parks <strong>Canada</strong> to ensure the aesthetic<br />
aspects <strong>of</strong> the huts designated as Federal<br />
Heritage Buildings are not compromised.<br />
Th ere are other benefi ts <strong>of</strong> using<br />
renewable energy power systems too,<br />
including better indoor air quality<br />
(propane emits gases), less moisture<br />
build-up inside the hut (propane emits<br />
moisture), as well as reducing the<br />
possibility <strong>of</strong> mould forming on the<br />
inside <strong>of</strong> walls, which in turn increases<br />
����� ��� �� ������� ������� ����� ��� ��� ���� � �������� ��� �� ���� ������<br />
���� �������<br />
PHOTOS BY BRUCE HARDARDT<br />
building life. It’s also<br />
much easier to turn on<br />
a switch than light a<br />
propane lamp.<br />
It didn’t take long after installing<br />
the system for the crew to realize a<br />
major benefi t. Th e volunteer work party<br />
was there not only to install the solar<br />
power generation equipment but also<br />
to build a deck. To test the system, the<br />
work party ran their power tools <strong>of</strong>f the<br />
system instead <strong>of</strong> running the generator<br />
– and found there was no need to run<br />
the generator for the remaining two days<br />
<strong>of</strong> the work party. Th is showed huge<br />
savings potential in terms <strong>of</strong> not having<br />
to fl y up a generator to carry out future<br />
renovation projects – not to mention the<br />
environmental benefi ts, including noise<br />
and fossil fuel use reduction.<br />
Photovoltaic technology is not new,<br />
but its application in remote alpine<br />
locations is. Th is fi rst installation by the<br />
ACC will need to be monitored for its<br />
eff ectiveness.<br />
Feedback from you – ACC members<br />
and hut users – is welcome; send to<br />
info@alpineclub<strong>of</strong>canada.ca<br />
Karen Rollins is Chair <strong>of</strong> the Energy,<br />
Water & Waste Management Committee.<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong> 21
Hans Gmoser – Canadian mountain pioneer<br />
BY CHIC SCOTT<br />
Hans Gmoser, the eminence grise<br />
<strong>of</strong> Canadian mountaineering,<br />
died July 5, <strong>2006</strong>, from injuries<br />
sustained in a fall while cycling near<br />
Banff Alberta. Content in recent years to<br />
enjoy cross-country skiing in winter and<br />
cycling in summer, during the 1950s, 60s<br />
and 70s Gmoser laid the foundation <strong>of</strong><br />
modern mountaineering in <strong>Canada</strong> and<br />
helped make <strong>Canada</strong>’s mountains world<br />
famous.<br />
Born in Austria in 1932, as a teenager<br />
Gmoser discovered the mountains and<br />
developed his skiing and climbing skills.<br />
In 1951, Gmoser and Leo Grillmair<br />
immigrated to <strong>Canada</strong>, fi rst working<br />
in logging near Whitecourt, Alberta,<br />
then moving to Calgary. Linking up<br />
with the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> they<br />
discovered <strong>Canada</strong>’s incredible mountain<br />
wilderness – rock climbing in summer<br />
and pioneering new routes on Mount<br />
Yamnuska. In winter they ski toured near<br />
Stanley Mitchell Hut in Yoho National<br />
Park.<br />
During the 1950s and 60s, Gmoser<br />
made many notable climbs, including<br />
the east ridge <strong>of</strong> Mount Logan and a<br />
new route on Denali’s north face (Mount<br />
McKinley). On skis he pioneered highlevel<br />
traverses in the Purcell Mountains<br />
and along the crest <strong>of</strong> the Rockies. His<br />
idealistic articles in the Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong><br />
Journal were music to young ears looking<br />
for an alternative lifestyle: “We were<br />
Kokanee & Fairy Meadow ski weeks available:<br />
� Any new openings at both the Kokanee<br />
Glacier Cabin and the Fairy Meadow<br />
Hut will be posted on the website at:<br />
www.alpineclub<strong>of</strong>canada.ca/facility/skiweeks.html<br />
� Be sure to have a look to see what is currently<br />
available, you may come across a week that works for<br />
you and your group!<br />
Fairy Meadow Rates<br />
� Low Season for members: $250; non-member price: $325<br />
Does not include helicopter (hut fees only)<br />
� High Season for members: $700; non-member price: $775<br />
Includes both helicopter and hut fees<br />
Kokanee Glacier Rates<br />
� Low Season for both members / non-member price: $675<br />
� High Season for both members / Retail price: $775<br />
Includes both helicopter and hut fees<br />
22 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong><br />
rebelling against an existence which<br />
human kind has forced upon itself. We<br />
were rebelling against an existence full<br />
<strong>of</strong> distorted values, against an existence<br />
where a man is judged by the size <strong>of</strong> his<br />
living-room, by the amount <strong>of</strong> chromium<br />
on his car. But here we were ourselves<br />
again: simple and pure. Friends in the<br />
mountains.”<br />
But as a mountain guide, Gmoser<br />
really made his mark. He began leading<br />
ski tours for Erling Strom and Lizzie<br />
Rummel near Mount Assiniboine in<br />
1953. In 1957 Gmoser founded Rocky<br />
Mountain Guides Ltd., leading climbers<br />
in summer and ski weeks in winter at<br />
Mount Assiniboine, Rogers Pass, BC and<br />
Stanley Mitchell Hut. From 1957 to 1967<br />
Hans toured with ten skiing and climbing<br />
fi lms he made, inspiring audiences across<br />
North America.<br />
Although he loved ski touring from<br />
small wilderness cabins, Gmoser is<br />
today known as the father <strong>of</strong> helicopter<br />
skiing. In 1965 he ran the fi rst two<br />
commercial heli-ski weeks in the<br />
Bugaboo Mountains. Th e timing was<br />
perfect: the requisite jet helicopter<br />
technology was just being developed.<br />
By 1968 luxurious Bugaboo Lodge was<br />
open, welcoming clientele from North<br />
America and Europe. Rocky Mountain<br />
Guides Ltd. became Canadian Mountain<br />
Holidays, now with 500 employees and<br />
a dozen lodges scattered throughout the<br />
PHOTO BY TODD DAVIS<br />
HANS GMOSER<br />
PHOTO COURTESY OF CANADIAN MOUNTAIN HOLIDAYS<br />
BC interior. Th e right man for the job,<br />
Gmoser developed a heli-ski industry<br />
with strong ties to the traditional<br />
mountain guiding and climbing<br />
communities, believing that heli-skiing<br />
was a wilderness experience.<br />
A founding member <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Association <strong>of</strong> Canadian Mountain<br />
Guides and its fi rst technical chairman,<br />
Gmoser served as the association’s<br />
honorary president. His pioneering<br />
eff orts in climbing, ski touring and<br />
heli-skiing created an industry that<br />
today employs hundreds <strong>of</strong> guides and<br />
thousands <strong>of</strong> support staff .<br />
A remarkable man who inspired<br />
loyalty and in return would be your<br />
lifelong friend, Gmoser counted among<br />
his friends Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau<br />
and the kings <strong>of</strong> Spain and Norway, yet<br />
he probably knew the name <strong>of</strong> every guest<br />
and staff member at his lodges.<br />
In 1966 he married Margaret<br />
MacGougan – they met skiing at Stanley<br />
Mitchell Hut. Th ey have two sons,<br />
Conrad (Lesley) and Robson (a ski guide<br />
like his father) and two grandchildren.<br />
Over the years, Gmoser was<br />
greatly recognized, including honorary<br />
memberships in the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Canada</strong> and the International Federation<br />
<strong>of</strong> Mountain Guides Associations.<br />
He was elected to the Honour Roll <strong>of</strong><br />
Canadian Skiing, the U.S. National<br />
Ski Hall <strong>of</strong> Fame and the Canadian<br />
Tourism Hall <strong>of</strong> Fame, and received the<br />
Banff Mountain Film Festival Summit<br />
<strong>of</strong> Excellence Award, and the Order <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Canada</strong>.<br />
Not long ago Hans commented:<br />
“Looking back, I’ve had a good interesting<br />
life. I had my time in the mountains. I had<br />
my time as a businessman. So what more<br />
can I ask for?”
CLASSIFIED ADS<br />
ACC CUSTOM PORTERING SERVICES<br />
If you are planning a backcountry<br />
hut trip and would like to have your<br />
food and equipment carried in,<br />
contact the Mountain Adventures<br />
Coordinator, Jon Rollins, for details<br />
at (403) 678-3200 x 112 or e-mail<br />
adventures@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
NOTICES<br />
VOLUNTEER FUNDRAISING COMMITTEE<br />
MEMBERS NEEDED<br />
We are seeking dedicated volunteers<br />
with experience in fundraising for<br />
not for pr<strong>of</strong>i t organizations to sit on<br />
the new Fundraising & Development<br />
Committee. If you are interested,<br />
please reply, with a brief outline <strong>of</strong><br />
your skills and area <strong>of</strong> interest, to<br />
David Toole, Committee Chair at:<br />
dgtoole@afdata.com Geographical<br />
location is not a factor.<br />
THE NORTH FACE WINTER<br />
LEADERSHIP COURSE<br />
Th e North Face Winter Leadership<br />
Course application deadline is<br />
November 1, <strong>2006</strong>. Th is course is<br />
aimed at ACC trip leaders and camp<br />
managers. For more details, see the<br />
enclosed <strong>Alpine</strong> Huts & Mountain<br />
Adventures brochure, visit our website<br />
at www.<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca/<br />
activities/leadership.html or call the<br />
National Offi ce (403) 678-3200 x 112.<br />
2007 CAJ ARTICLE DEADLINE<br />
Th e submission deadline for articles<br />
is January 15, 2007. Please forward<br />
articles to the editor, Ge<strong>of</strong>f Powter at<br />
gpowter@telusplanet.net<br />
EBULLETIN<br />
Sign up for the ACC NewsNet to<br />
receive current event updates by<br />
e-mail. To subscribe send an e-mail to<br />
NewsNet@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
CLASSIFIED AD RATES:<br />
$20 plus $1 per word + GST<br />
E-mail your ad to:<br />
ads@<strong>Alpine</strong><strong>Club</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>Canada</strong>.ca<br />
or mail to the address on page 3.<br />
present the 31st annual<br />
OCTOBER 28 – NOVEMBER 5, <strong>2006</strong><br />
403.762.6301 l 1.800.413.8368 l www.banffmountainfestivals.ca<br />
Proud to be a<br />
founding member <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Photo: Will Gadd on Aweberg © Christian Pondella<br />
National Offi ce news<br />
BY BRUCE KEITH<br />
I<br />
don’t know what it’s been like for you<br />
at work or home over the past six<br />
months, but it’s been crazy busy here<br />
in the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>’s National<br />
Offi ce! All for a good cause, though – in<br />
addition to our regular tasks, we have<br />
done everything possible to support the<br />
great amount <strong>of</strong> work done by <strong>Club</strong><br />
volunteers on the various events that<br />
have taken place to celebrate this year’s<br />
Centennial. Th ose events have been great<br />
fun and have made this year memorable<br />
for all <strong>of</strong> us in the <strong>of</strong>fi ce.<br />
I’m happy to say that while we have<br />
quite a few new staff members, they are<br />
doing a very capable job <strong>of</strong> keeping up<br />
with the day-to-day work required to<br />
support the <strong>Club</strong>’s diverse operations.<br />
Lawrence White and his Facilities<br />
staff have done wonders to provide a<br />
positive experience for everyone who<br />
has used the <strong>Club</strong>house and our huts<br />
this summer. Sandy Walker and her<br />
sponsored by<br />
with assistance from<br />
Mountain Adventures staff have just<br />
fi nished planning an amazing program<br />
<strong>of</strong> trips and camps for 2007. Suzan<br />
Chamney, working in Development and<br />
Communications, and Kevin Lohka and<br />
his Finance and Information Technology<br />
staff , have made signifi cant changes for<br />
the better in their <strong>of</strong>fi ce support areas.<br />
To round things out, Nancy Hansen has<br />
fi lled in wherever necessary in the <strong>of</strong>fi ce<br />
over the past summer, keeping us all on<br />
track.<br />
In the end though, it is the volunteers<br />
we work with who defi ne the ACC.<br />
Th eir contributions include organizing<br />
Centennial events, planning and putting<br />
on memorable General Mountaineering<br />
Camps, renovating ACC huts, drafting<br />
the next ACC publication, cataloguing<br />
our <strong>Club</strong>’s historical documents and<br />
leading section trips – just to name a few.<br />
Your volunteer contributions to the ACC<br />
are much appreciated!<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> � Gazette � FALL <strong>2006</strong> 23
Centennial Fund Campaign 2004 – <strong>2006</strong><br />
YES!<br />
I will help<br />
New rules make donating stocks and bonds more attractive<br />
Over the years, the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> has been the grateful recipient <strong>of</strong> many bequests<br />
from generous donors, both alive and deceased. Th ose donations allow the <strong>Club</strong> to do things that<br />
simply would not be aff ordable otherwise, including such initiatives as building new backcountry<br />
huts, publishing books, training trip leaders and many others.<br />
Just over two years ago, the ACC set out to raise $1 million over a span <strong>of</strong> three years<br />
surrounding the <strong>Club</strong>’s centennial. To this point over $633,000 has been raised.<br />
So only $367,000 to go! Along those lines, please note that a recent decision by <strong>Canada</strong>’s<br />
Federal Government has made donations in the form <strong>of</strong> stocks and bonds more attractive to<br />
some people than donating cash. Th e new rules allow Canadians to donate public securities ‘in<br />
kind’ without incurring a personal tax liability, assuming that the charity <strong>of</strong> choice is set up to<br />
receive them – just as the ACC is.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se donations are <strong>of</strong> enormous benefi t to the ACC, such as the Boswell family’s contribution<br />
<strong>of</strong> stocks, which was used as seed money for the replacement <strong>of</strong> the old Toronto Section Cabin at<br />
the Canmore <strong>Club</strong>house site. Th e Toronto Section also pitched in more money, as did a number<br />
<strong>of</strong> individuals. Th ose funds, along with a contribution from the Alberta Government, facilitated<br />
construction <strong>of</strong> the new Pat Boswell (Toronto Section) Cabin - named after Boswell, a Toronto<br />
Section member and former General Manager <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Club</strong>. More recently, a pair <strong>of</strong> Vancouver<br />
based friends <strong>of</strong> Jim Haberl donated shares in two mining companies toward construction <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Jim Haberl Hut on the west coast, which was recently completed and now <strong>of</strong>f ers comfortable<br />
backcountry accommodations in the spectacular Coast Mountains.<br />
So if your ship has come in, if you recently found the pot <strong>of</strong> gold at the end <strong>of</strong> the rainbow<br />
– you too can make a signifi cant diff erence to your favourite charity, and thanks to the new<br />
Federal Budget, come tax time, it will be pain free.<br />
Help us reach our $1 million goal!<br />
Canadian donors:<br />
Th e <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> is a Registered Charitable<br />
Organization and will send you a donation tax receipt. Your<br />
donation will allow the <strong>Club</strong> to undertake projects that it<br />
could not fund from internal sources.<br />
Please mail the completed form to:<br />
<strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong><br />
P.O. Box 8040<br />
Canmore, AB <strong>Canada</strong> T1W 2T8<br />
charitable registration no. 10670 4182 rr0001<br />
American donors:<br />
Th e ACC Foundation is a U.S. 501(c)(3) corporation,<br />
whose purposes mirror those <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong>.<br />
Donations will be put to work in the manner stipulated by<br />
the donor, and a U.S. tax receipt will be issued.<br />
Please mail the completed form to:<br />
ACC Foundation<br />
6174 E Borley Rd<br />
Coeur d Alene, ID 83814 USA<br />
� I would like to contribute to the Centennial Fund � Please use my donation where it is most needed.<br />
� Please use my donation to support the Canadian <strong>Alpine</strong> Journal DVD.<br />
� I would rather donate to another <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> fund:<br />
Donation Amount:<br />
� Mountain Culture � Environment � Library<br />
� <strong>Club</strong>house / Huts � Leadership Development<br />
Name: Membership #<br />
I prefer to donate by:<br />
� I wish to remain anonymous � Cheque enclosed � MasterCard � VISA<br />
Mailing / Street Address: . Credit Card #<br />
City: Province: Home Phone: Business Phone: Expiry Date: .<br />
Postal Code: E-mail Address: Signature:<br />
$______<br />
Th ank you for your support <strong>of</strong> these worthwhile projects.<br />
/