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AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN<br />
two completely different systems. By keeping the different areas separate<br />
and positioning passport control posts along the way it was almost<br />
impossible to get on a train to West Berlin without permission. The<br />
station has now been completely refurbished and looks like any other<br />
station with no visible traces of its former segregated layout. The Palace of<br />
Tears was used as a concert hall until 2006 and has since 2011 housed the<br />
exhibition ‘Border Experiences – Everyday life in divided Germany’ by the<br />
Stiftung Haus der Geschichte der Bundesrepublik Deutschland. This<br />
exhibition aims to provide “a vivid insight into life in the shadow of<br />
division and the border” (Stiftung Haus der Geschichte der Bundesrepublik<br />
Deutschland website 2012).<br />
When I interview Nina in London, where she now lives, some of her<br />
clearest memories of the wall relates to the Friedrichstraße Station and the<br />
Palace of Tears. This was the place where she used to help people escape<br />
over from East to West Berlin. She was a student in Berlin during in the<br />
early 1960s and through the university she got involved in helping people<br />
cross the border. “I was given some passports that I needed to smuggle over<br />
to East Berlin and then give them to those who were trying to escape”, she<br />
tells me. Often they met in a flat where she handed the passports over and<br />
explained how the crossing worked. The passports were of different nationalities<br />
such as West German, English and Swedish. “I remember one time I<br />
turned up and the person looked nothing like the passport photo that was<br />
meant to be used. The girl in the photo had blond hair while the East<br />
German girl who was going to use the passport had really dark hair. We had<br />
little time so we had to improvise and covered her hair in flour to make it<br />
lighter. Amazingly it worked.” She laughs at the story now but remember it<br />
being frightening at the time. The last time she went over to help someone<br />
across she soon discovered that she was being followed. Zigzagging through<br />
the streets around Friedrichstraße Station she managed to lose the man<br />
following her in order to get through the Friedrichstraße passport control<br />
and onto the train to West Berlin as soon as possible without being caught.<br />
That was her last passport trip over to East Berlin (Nina 2008, pers. comm.).<br />
Today the station looks just like any other station. Apart from the Palace of<br />
Tears, which is actually located just next to the main station building, there<br />
are no traces of the division. I try to figure out what platforms may have<br />
belonged to what trains, east- or westbound and what corridors that were<br />
out of bounds from those in the East but it is difficult. Not even the passage<br />
between the station building and the Palace of Tears seems to remain. As I<br />
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