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AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN<br />

(2000) it becomes very obvious how silent the sites I visit are. Wollinger<br />

explains how the noises of TVs, record players and conversations would<br />

flow through the corridors in the evening, the sound of military boots<br />

against the flooring and the sound of Velcro as someone opens their<br />

uniforms as they enter a building (Wollinger 2000:75 and 62). She also<br />

speaks of the smellscapes of the corridor, particularly on Wednesday<br />

evenings, the usual time for a night on the town, when the smell of deodorant<br />

and aftershave hung heavily in the air. The sites I visit are silent and<br />

where smells are involved they are more likely to be connected with the<br />

buildings’ degeneration than their previous occupants. But there are still<br />

traces left of those who once spent two years of their lives here. Those who<br />

patrolled, monitored and guarded the borders but also lived here and<br />

carried out their everyday duties, both official and private. Their lives here<br />

both on and off duty have come to linger through the remains they have left<br />

behind, both at the site itself and through their memorabilia displayed on<br />

their website and these things speak loudly. In the absence of people the<br />

things themselves become more clear.<br />

Although a lot of the buildings have fallen into disrepair and most of the<br />

furniture has been removed walking around in this former guard station<br />

still gave a sense of how life here would have been like. It is obvious from<br />

graffiti in which soldiers were counting down the days that if they had been<br />

given a choice many of them would not have been here. This was part of the<br />

obligatory two year military service that all Czechoslovakian men had to do<br />

in their late teens and early twenties (conscription to the army took place<br />

after they had finished their studies and therefore the age of the soldiers<br />

varied somewhat). After an initial month of training at the Jemnice facility<br />

the soldiers spent the remainder of the time in one place, transfers being<br />

unusual. It is clear from the graffiti but especially the “graduate drawings”<br />

that were produced by the soldiers themselves and the many photos<br />

displayed on the army forum that a real sense of camaraderie developed and<br />

that contacts have been kept also after the soldiers left the camp (Army<br />

Forum Website). Of course, one has to remember that the people displaying<br />

these pictures and keeping up contacts on this website are a very small part<br />

of the all the soldiers that came through these border guard stations. Many<br />

of the former soldiers that are not taking part in these kinds of forums may<br />

not feel the same. There is a great stigma attached to any act that is related<br />

to communism or former communist activities.<br />

The different areas within the study area also display slightly different<br />

pictures of the soldiers. What is interesting is that the guard hut located<br />

178

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