1JZGauQ
1JZGauQ 1JZGauQ
4: CASE STUDY 1: THE ITALIAN/SLOVENIAN BORDER When I meet with Anja at a café in Solkan she tells me about her own experiences with the border. She was brought up in Nova Gorica and tells me that when she was young in the 1980s her and her friends would always go over to Gorizia to go shopping for branded clothes. This was before outlet shops became common but she tells me of a Benetton store in Gorizia where a lot of the last seasons clothes were put on sale, brought from other Benetton stores in Italy, as people often came over from Yugoslavia to buy them. Shopping is a reoccurring feature when you discuss the border with people and sometimes it appears that the border was a highly useful feature. Cheaper shopping and access to products that would normally not be available is often what people remember. This behaviour is also a type of resistance and manipulation of the border and the authority of the state. I sit in my hotel room located about 15 m from the border, by the Transalpine Square. The clock has just turned 10 p.m. when I hear tango music drifting into my room. I look out the window and down on the square I see maybe 20 couples dancing to the tango tunes. I walk down to the street and sit down on the curb to enjoy the music and the view of the skilful dancers. “What is this Why are they dancing here” I ask a girl next to me. “This border divided people for such a long time”, she explains, “We want to show that through peace and passion you can overcome any division of people”. A young man comes up and whisks her away to the border that has now been transformed into a dance floor. I realise that resisting the border is not just something of the past, it is still going on. People and the border My father was born under Austria, my mother under Italy, me under Yugoslavia and my daughter under Slovenia. We use the word under, not in, as it is meant as being under the rule of. This way of saying under rather than in or from is very typical from this area. (Andrej Malnič, 2008, pers. comm.2 nd September) These are the words of Andrej Malnič, director of the Goriški Musej who has grown up in this area. His words demonstrate the mixed background this area has. Looking at the remains of the border structure here I understand that the border has played an important role in the lives of the people in its proximity. I am curious to see what people have to say about it 111
AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN and I meet with Maria and Antonio in Trieste. When I meet Maria she brings along her friend Antonio. They are both Italian and in their 40s. They are both ‘Triestini’ and know the area well as they were brought up here and they take me to a recreational area near the Slovenian border, on the Carso/Karst, not too far from the town. Their families have very different backgrounds and I notice how that has affected how they speak and think about the border and about Yugoslavia. Maria’s family moved here before she was born and although she feels a strong connection with the area she claims not to have the ‘hang ups’ that she suggests Antonio and many others with a long history connected to the border have. His family had a large farm in what is now Croatia but after World War II they lost everything when they left it all behind and moved to Trieste. He remembers going to visit family in Croatia in the 1960s. “It was about 100 km to get to the town and we only met three cars. It was so poor in Yugoslavia that they did not have cars. Also if you drove in the night it was completely black as there were no streetlights. We brought sugar, spaghetti and coffee with us. They had nothing” (Maria and Antonio 2008 pers. comm. 5 th September). Maria’s memories about the border are more connected to crossing it in order to buy cheaper food or for example jewellery that was a bit different from what you could buy in Italy. She remembers how their car was always searched when they crossed the border in order to check how much goods they were taking with them. After Slovenia’s independence however the situation changed, she says: “when capitalism came into these places it was no longer cheap for us, and there were no good things to buy. The shops were empty so we stopped to go [sic]” (Maria and Antonio 2008 pers. comm. 5 th September 2008). Maria’s story, as well as Anja’s mentioned above, is not unusual and often told on both sides of the border. This demonstrates that as well as being a divider the border also presented opportunities. People had different relationships with the border. Often people who were affected by the border had to work out a way to relate to it. For example when we walk in the border area of the Carso/Karso, Antonio tells me how people walking on the Italian side sometimes accidently crossed over into Yugoslavia and got caught and questioned by the Yugoslavian border police. He starts laughing and tells me the story of a man who lived near the border here. One day one of his chickens ran away and crossed the border. The man ran after him and was arrested by the Yugoslavian police and put in prison for a while. The fate of the chicken is not explained in the story. Maybe the Yugoslavian authorities were more tolerant towards animals. Similar stories 112
- Page 61 and 62: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 63 and 64: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 65 and 66: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 67 and 68: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 69 and 70: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 71 and 72: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 73 and 74: Figure 16: Postcard of the newly op
- Page 75 and 76: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 77 and 78: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 79 and 80: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 81 and 82: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 83 and 84: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 85 and 86: 402 Kojsko Hum 402 THE OSIM
- Page 87 and 88: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 89 and 90: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 91 and 92: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 93 and 94: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 95 and 96: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 97 and 98: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 99 and 100: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 101 and 102: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 103 and 104: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 105 and 106: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 107 and 108: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 109 and 110: Figure 50: Map demonstrating the bo
- Page 111: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 115 and 116: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 117 and 118: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 119 and 120: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 121 and 122: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 123 and 124: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 125 and 126: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
- Page 128 and 129: CHAPTER 5 Case Study 2 The Czech/Au
- Page 130 and 131: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 132 and 133: Figure 55: Bunker near the crossing
- Page 134 and 135: Figure 59: Military map from 1980 o
- Page 136 and 137: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 138 and 139: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 140 and 141: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 142 and 143: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 144 and 145: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 146 and 147: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 148 and 149: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 150 and 151: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 152 and 153: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 154 and 155: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 156 and 157: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 158 and 159: 5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
- Page 160 and 161: Figure 77-78: Painting inside the f
4: CASE STUDY 1: THE ITALIAN/SLOVENIAN BORDER<br />
When I meet with Anja at a café in Solkan she tells me about her own<br />
experiences with the border. She was brought up in Nova Gorica and tells<br />
me that when she was young in the 1980s her and her friends would always<br />
go over to Gorizia to go shopping for branded clothes. This was before<br />
outlet shops became common but she tells me of a Benetton store in Gorizia<br />
where a lot of the last seasons clothes were put on sale, brought from other<br />
Benetton stores in Italy, as people often came over from Yugoslavia to buy<br />
them. Shopping is a reoccurring feature when you discuss the border with<br />
people and sometimes it appears that the border was a highly useful feature.<br />
Cheaper shopping and access to products that would normally not be<br />
available is often what people remember. This behaviour is also a type of<br />
resistance and manipulation of the border and the authority of the state.<br />
I sit in my hotel room located about 15 m from the border, by the Transalpine<br />
Square. The clock has just turned 10 p.m. when I hear tango music<br />
drifting into my room. I look out the window and down on the square I see<br />
maybe 20 couples dancing to the tango tunes. I walk down to the street and<br />
sit down on the curb to enjoy the music and the view of the skilful dancers.<br />
“What is this Why are they dancing here” I ask a girl next to me. “This<br />
border divided people for such a long time”, she explains, “We want to<br />
show that through peace and passion you can overcome any division of<br />
people”. A young man comes up and whisks her away to the border that has<br />
now been transformed into a dance floor. I realise that resisting the border<br />
is not just something of the past, it is still going on.<br />
People and the border<br />
My father was born under Austria, my mother under Italy, me under<br />
Yugoslavia and my daughter under Slovenia. We use the word under,<br />
not in, as it is meant as being under the rule of. This way of saying under<br />
rather than in or from is very typical from this area.<br />
(Andrej Malnič, 2008, pers. comm.2 nd September)<br />
These are the words of Andrej Malnič, director of the Goriški Musej who<br />
has grown up in this area. His words demonstrate the mixed background<br />
this area has. Looking at the remains of the border structure here I<br />
understand that the border has played an important role in the lives of the<br />
people in its proximity. I am curious to see what people have to say about it<br />
111